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CONTENDER RIG TUNING - BLACK ART OR SIMPLE SCIENCE?

Many sailors are mystified by the term tuning. Some may imagine that it is a sort of Black Magic performed instantly by experts such as sailmakers and other so called professionals. However in reality, there is no short cut for anyone and “tuning” usually means small adjustments made over a long period of time to ensure a close working match between mast, sail and helmsman.

Obviously, a good place to start is by choosing a mast and sail that in theory should already match each other, taking advantage of any development and tuning done by the sailmaker. It should be easy to find out from race results whose equipment is winning and who is involved with the class.

The following is a guide to setting up your Wavelength rig in a way that will enable you to commence your own fine tuning programme. Some suggestions may appear insultingly simple but are still necessary and sometimes overlooked because they are “basic and obvious”.

MAST POSITION

Step the mast, leaving the lowers off, and adjust the forestay and shrouds until there is reasonable rig tension with the forestay lever on. Now use a tape measure to check the distance from the top of the transom (not including any overlap) to the aft face of the mast (including the sail track or any extension of it) at deck level. I prefer this measurement to be set as near to the minimum of 3050mm as possible. This keeps the weight of the rig as far back as is allowed helping to prevent the bow sticking on a reach and enables the boom to be squared out more on the run. It also provides the right amount of weather helm for medium conditions.

The next thing to sort out is mast rake. The general rule is to rake the mast back as much as possible while still leaving some room to get under the boom! Obviously you could take this to extremes by using a sail with a very short leech but the trade off would be a slight loss of sail area. As usual, a compromise seems to work best with a leech cut 100mm short of maximum (our standard sail) and a mast rake of about 6500mm. The actual rake is not critical to a few centimetres or so as long as you feel OK with the boom height when tacking and the balance of the boat is OK. Some top sailors are even sailing at 6420mm which means the centreboard has to be raised  to almost half way in stronger breeze to reduce weather helm.It also means that tacking is extremely difficult!

The rake is measured by hoisting a tape measure on the halyard and fastening the halyard off so the tape runs from the lower edge of the measurement band at the top of the mast to the crown of the transom.The lowers and rig tension should be on for this measurement.

SETTING THE MAST STRAIGHT - OUR REFERENCE POINT

First you must ensure the mast is straight sideways. Attach the lower shrouds and tension the forestay lever. Now place your head below the gooseneck and sight up the mast track to see if it is straight sideways. Assuming it is not, adjust one of the lowers to bring the masthead into line (this is where the Sta-master turnbuckles come into their own). If you are unsure which lower needs to be altered, then simply push one of them with your hand to effectively tighten it whilst simultaneously sighting up the mast. You will immediately see if you are making the mast straighter or bending it off more to one side. If you cannot straighten the mast using the lowers, then check the spreaders are of equal length and the same angle each side.

Now for the fore and aft bend. As a starting point try to aim for a mast with a small (20mm) amount of pre-bend( fore and aft bend). This will generally be good in light or strong conditions for a helm weight of 80KG and will provide a reference point around which you can experiment. A heavier helm may use zero prebend and a 70kg one say 50mm bend.There are two ways of controlling fore and aft bend: spreader angle and lower shroud tension. Spreader angle is tied in with spreader length and I suggest you adjust your spreaders to a length of 430mm and leave them for a while - it’s one less variable to think about for now. As a starting point the spreader deflection (the distance between the mast track and a straight edge connecting the outer ends of each spreader) should be about 11cm.

Adjust the lower shrouds equally so that they just become taut when the forestay lever is horizontal, and then with the lever fully on, sight up the mast adjusting your head position so you can see the amount of fore and aft bend. The spreader angle should be adjusted until the amount of forward bend halfway up the mast is about 20mm.

REMEMBER SWINGING THE SPREADERS FORWARD WILL STRAIGHTEN THE MAST AND SWINGING THEM AFT WILL INDUCE BEND.

RIG TENSION

Buy or borrow a rig tension gauge and check the shroud tension, which should be somewhere between 115kg (250lbs) and 150kg (340lbs) depending on your weight and the type of mast you have. Generally the heavier you are the more rig tension you should carry. Remember when you push out on the trapeze in a force 2-3, your bodyweight is causing the windward shroud to lose tension, which in turn allows the mast tip to fall off to leeward, depowering the rig at just the wrong time - so the more you weigh the more rig tension you need to counter this. However, if you overdo it (especially lightweights) the rig will not depower properly in more wind and waves. If the gauge shows that you need to adjust shrouds or forestay to arrive at a suitable rig tension then immediately repeat the whole cycle of adjustments from rake through to bend, until you have the correct settings.

Finally, make a note of all shroud adjuster positions so you can easily return to this reference rig setting. Any future experiments can then be related to this example: Ref. setting but with forestay tensioned one hole, or: Ref. setting with lowers one hole tighter.

SAIL CONTROLS & REFERENCE MARKS

The aim of any sailmaker these days is to produce a good all round sail capable of being adjusted through a wide range of shapes to suit differing conditions. By definition this means that it is quite likely that some sailors will have their sail adjusted to the wrong shape for a particular condition just by having say, too much cunningham on, or too little vang. This sail adjusting skill, and the ability to change gear quickly on the race course makes a huge difference to boatspeed.

There are two ways of working on improving these skills. Firstly you can look at the sail as you are sailing along, assess its shape, comparing it to the prevailing conditions and to the ideal shape required for those conditions (which may or may not be stored inside your brain!). Sail control adjustments can then be made to achieve this perfect shape. We all employ this method, some with more success than others, but the facts are that the less proficient you are, the more it will distract you from the job of steering the boat and what is happening on the race course. This is where the second method comes in, which involves extensive use of reference marks.

This system is as old as sailing itself, but is rarely used properly. Basically, instead of having to keep a memory bank of sail shapes, you build up over a period of time a memory bank of sail control settings which you have found to be fast in particular conditions. The beauty of this is that you can, for example, round a leeward mark in a choppy force 4, set outhaul, cunningham, vang and mainsheet to exact marks, knowing you will be going as fast as you can and without even looking up at the sail; thereby allowing more concentration to be applied to steering, tactics, shifts etc. Obviously to arrive at these fast settings requires a lot of time in the boat but the sooner you start the better!

Hoist the sail on land and stand back from the boat to check the head of the sail is right on the lower edge of the measurement band. Adjust the halyard until this is correct and mark the position and always use this. There is no point having a cunningham reference mark if the head of the sail is in a different place each time. Use a low stretch halyard (I use 2.5mm wire).

Check the boom measurement band position (2700mm from aft edge of the mast track or its extension). Put a reference mark 50mm in from this (one should be enough).

Put a cunningham reference mark 50mm below the track exit on the mast. Attach a mark to one of the vang wire purchases with PVC tape and mark the mainsheet roughly where it would pass through the boom block in medium conditions.

If you have a clubmate or tuning partner, try to put your marks in the same places so you can compare settings after sailing. Remember to write down combinations of settings on the boat or when you get ashore as they are easy to forget if you don’t sail for a month or so! You should gradually build up some consistently fast combinations eg: Force 3. Flat water. Trapezing straight legged. Outhaul on ref., Cunningham 1" above ref., Vang 2" beyond ref., Mainsheet ref. mark between boom block and jammer. Rig set to reference but lowers one hole tighter.

Believe me, it is very reassuring in the heat of a race when things are going wrong to set the sail to exact settings and say I know I’ve had reasonable boatspeed before with these, so let’s get on with it!

Good sailing and good luck!!

Wavelength Designs - Cornwall -United Kingdom. 

© Wavelength Designs 2006-2024 | Site by DVisions

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• Sailboat Guide

Contender is a 16 ′ 0 ″ / 4.9 m monohull sailboat designed by Ben Lexcen and built by Rondar Raceboats, Chris Somner Dinghy Services, Performance Sailcraft, and Windrush Yachts starting in 1968.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Single handed dinghy w/trapeze. Originally presented at a set of trails for selection of a new single handed dinghy class, sponsored by the IYRU and held at La Baule (FRA) in 1966. (A similar event held the previous year at Weymouth proved inconclusive) An International class since 1968.

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Contender 23Bay

• By Randy Vance
• September 16, 2024

Contender’s new 23Bay boasts a 12-inch draft and a 15.5-degree deadrise with a double-step bottom. Its lines are sleek and crisp, and response is immediate. In the light wind chop of the broad St. Lucie River in Stuart, Florida, it proved its capability for fishing from inshore flats to off-the-beach excursions. You’ll no doubt see the 23Bay on nearshore reefs in ­calmer seas, and the boat presents crew in style and grace for ­waterfront dining.

No other category of boat is more popular than hybrid bay boats, and with Contender’s extremely successful 25Bay, it needed to bring out something more than just a shorter platform in the crowded field of fishing hybrids. 

First, Contender had to develop a bay boat with a ­skinny draft and a ride solid enough to live up to Contender’s well-earned reputation for ­quality. This one’s motor-up draft is shallower than most of its competitors, enabling exploration farther into backwater creeks and flats than ­many boats of its size. We proved that in our test. 

We also proved its solid ride in navigating heavy wakes of much larger center-consoles, cruisers and sport-fishers that regularly traverse the river, heaving moderate chop with bone-jarring rollers. Any boat will shake up the crew if these wakes aren’t navigated with caution, but we took these on plane, stretching from crest to crest on some, and taking ­wider rollers at an oblique angle. On the former, the boat was remarkably solid on reentry. On the oblique wakes, which can steer some boats off course, the 23Bay soldiered on, keeping its line at speed. How does a 23-footer do that?

First, Contender vacuum-­infuses the 23’s hull, a process that combines exactly the right amount of resin with a glass mat to make a hull of consistent thickness, weight and resilience from the first to last hull off the line. A stringer grid is fused to the hull, and all of the wiring and plumbing is put in place through ample chases to allow additional electrical wiring to be pulled in place if transducers need replacement or ­operating systems need updating or maintenance. The deck is then fused in place, and screwed and glued with adhesive, leaving no slack anywhere for creaking, cracking or grinding as the boat ­traverses rough water. 

This all speaks to a long, happy life for the boat and owner, but there’s more.

With a double-step hull, the 23Bay offers amazing performance, easily besting 60 mph with the 300 hp Yamaha outboard on a jack plate. The 23Bay also achieved more than 4 mpg at 3,000 rpm and 28.5 mph—its most economical cruise speed. Some step-hulls have a nasty habit of spinning out in ­unexpectedly crisp turns, but we challenged our test boat to do so, and it refused. 

The low gunwales keep the wind profile low enough to minimize wind drift, giving better control when operating the trolling motor, and more precision in positioning the boat with its Power-Pole shallow-­water anchors.

At the helm was an acrylic windshield, grab bars for extra security, and a leaning post comfortable for two. The helm had one 12-inch multifunction display, and a locker with an acrylic door for phones and wallets. Ergonomics were engineered to keep switches in comfortable reach, and the wheel and throttle where hands naturally fall.

Another of our favorite features, one most boaters ­never look at until something breaks, is the 23’s organized wiring. This rigging is logical, clean, and labeled for easy diagnosis should problems arise. The clarity of it means adding equipment is easier too. In addition, two hatches, one lifting up and the other pulling away, provide ample access to the compartment that contains batteries and space to stow life jackets. 

The 23Bay carries a generous 35-gallon livewell in the aft deck on the centerline. On each side of the livewell are hatches for storage and access to the bilge. Access to pumps, the fuel filter and other plumbing belowdecks is impressive and will ease maintenance down the road. Hydraulic pumps for the dual Power-Poles were also conveniently accessible, making them easy to configure and maintain.

A pair of rod holders in each gunwale, four in the leaning post, and four on the starboard side of the console are complemented by lockable rod holders in each forward compartment, and they’re capable of handling 8-foot rods. A center foredeck locker boasts 75 gallons of dry storage where there’s an easy step up to the casting deck molded into the deck. At the bottom of the step is another locker for a cast-net bucket. A seat with a cooler underneath for the forward console can be removed to create more fishing room. Walkways between the bow and stern casting decks are wide, and the coamings on the inside of the low gunwales were optionally padded with SeaDek, but upholstered bolsters are also available. An optional aft seat fits over the livewell and comes with a backrest. 

Read Next: Contender 26 Bay

Our boat came without a T-top, but this is an available option, as is an upper station. We think the 23 is going to be most popular among the most hardcore sport fishermen who want optimal access to shallow water, as well as confident handling when the call of hungry snapper, kings and grouper beckons anglers ­outside the inlet.

Specifications

Contender Boats – Homestead, Florida; contenderboats.com

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Contender 35 ST: 2024 Boat Buyers Guide

• December 26, 2023

To avid freediver and spearfisherman Joe Neber, boatbuilding seemed like a natural career path growing up in Miami. Entering that industry, he soon came to found his own company, Contender Boats, in 1984. Admittedly competitive by nature, he has constantly pushed the envelope in boat performance, quality, fishability and innovation.

Contender, based in Homestead, Florida, is a recognized leader in building semicustom sport-fishing boats, carefully engineered, meticulously handcrafted and unmistakably aimed toward fishing, even when seas get rough.

Today, Contender ­offers models from 24 to 44 feet, each ready for custom details, from engine power to electronics to upholstery, including teak packages, power-actuated hatches and coolers, livewells and rigging, and several forward and rear seating options.

Neber is also a supporter of the fishing community and a committed conservationist, as evidenced by his company’s 11th-annual donation of a boat (this year, the 2024 ­Contender 28T center-­console) to benefit the Coastal Conservation Association of Florida, which undertakes projects such as habitat restorations, artificial reefs, shoreline stabilizations, and restocking of clams, oysters, redfish and sea trout.

Contender 35 ST

Contender proudly calls its 35 ST center-console fast, efficient, powerful and fishy. 

Its patented dual-stepped hull boosts speed, fuel efficiency and handling. A single-level deck, massive fish and storage boxes, and a sea-taming ride make this a fisherman’s dream. Triple (or quad) engines and a 400-­gallon fuel capacity make it a dream with far-­ranging options. It speeds at 70-plus mph.

The 35 ST has Contender’s hand-laid fiberglass construction with multidirectional fabric and a foam-cored glass stringer; foam flotation, an integral dive platform, a full transom and swing-in transom door; and a self-bailing cockpit and a nonskid cockpit sole and deck. Movement is easy on both sides of the two-abreast console, which is lined with vertical rod holders. 

A semicustom boat, the 35 ST has a long and wide list of available custom fishing options, including towers built to spot fish or birds from miles away. Complete second-­station setups give the captain the true bird’s-eye view of air and ocean and their inhabitants. 

A leaning station features a novel removable rigging table. The station is topped by a half-dozen rod holders, and the transom by a pair of 40-gallon clear-topped livewells. Another 80-gallon livewell can be installed in-deck aft of the leaning post as an option; each livewell is served by its own pump installed within a sea chest. Forward of the console, a lounge is lifted electrically to access a large central storage compartment flanked by two other in-deck compartments, besides the coffin box itself. Additional in-deck storage and fish boxes are available.

Editor’s Tip 

Fuel capacity is often ­overlooked, but it’s as important as the boat’s motors. It doesn’t make sense to have a fast, capable vessel and limit its range with a tiny tank. If you plan on unleashing 1,200 ponies, make sure you can fit at least 300 gallons below deck. -Joe Albanese, Executive Editor Salt Water Sportsman

Performance Data

• Test Power: Triple Yamaha F300s
• Test Load: 1,200 lb.
• Test Speed: 68 mph at 6,000 rpm
• Max Range: 576 mi. at 32.7 mph, 3,000 rpm

Specifications

Contender Boats – Homestead, Florida; contenderboats.com

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Join the British Contender Association!

The Contender has survived and thrived for the last 50+ years because it has benefited from an enthusiastic and dedicated class association.

The BCA and its international counterpart, the International Contender Association, are entirely voluntarily run members' organisations, and the only resources we have to look after the class and its interests comes from the annual membership subscriptions.

Without the support of all UK Contender sailors, the BCA will not be able to support, develop, or promote the class in the manner it deserves.

So if you own or sail a Contender, join us and help us represent YOU!

The British Contender Association

The British Contender Association is the official UK class association of the International Contender Class.

The International Contender is the World's most popular single-handed trapeze sailing dinghy.

It was originally designed back in 1967 by Australian Ben Lexcen as a potential successor to the Olympic Finn Class. The boat won the 1968 Olympic selection trials, but for a variety of reasons was never adopted as an Olympic class. This was probably something of a blessing, as the class has thrived ever since. The longevity of the class is a testament to the original design: simple, practical, with classic good looks.

The Contender Class is truly International, holding ISAF International status. As well as a strong UK fleet, there are fleets in Australasia, North America, and right across Europe. The World Championships routinely attracts turnouts of over 140 boats.

This site contains details of what's going in the Contender Class in the UK; How, Who, What, Why and where.

If you've found your way here, you probably have an idea of what you're looking for - and if you can't find on the site in the FAQs etc, please feel free to contact us, and we'll try to help, or just contact us anyway we're here to serve the Contender sailing community of the UK.

If you only find yourself here by accident, well, welcome again, and please feel free to browse the site to find out a bit more about the International Contender - you never know, you might get hooked!

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UNLEASH YOUR INNER ADVENTURER WITH THE 24 SPORT

With plenty of range offered from the 130 gallons of fuel capacity, the 24S is ready to take on a day of fun on the water. Efficient, family-friendly, and versatile, this boat is your perfect introduction to the Contender team. With a suite of available options, we’ll tailor your boat to fit the needs of your whole family, whatever those may be.

SPECIFICATIONS

Anchor locker with molded in anchor storage and fixed cleat

Recessed bow rail

Forward bench seating with cushions, removable insert, removable backrests and (2) 59 GAL dry storage compartments under seats

94 GAL forward fishbox

44 GAL forward insulated in-deck dry storage

Laceless soft top with (4) rodholders, (2) spreader lights, anchor light, antenna and outrigger pads, (3) puck lights, aluminum radar pad and grab rails

Molded in console front seat with cushions, cooler and cup holders

“Sport” console with built in helm pod, tilt steering, step-down console, (4) cupholders and clear plexi windshield

“Mini fixed back” aluminum leaning post with backrest, tray under seat, (4) rod holders, folding footrest and cooler base

Cockpit coaming bolster

(2) 30 GAL aft fishboxes

Rear jumpseats with bilge access

Oversize in deck bilge access

26 GAL transom livewell

Full transom with integral dive platform, trim tabs lifting rings and cleats

STANDARD FEATURES

ADDITIONAL OPTIONS

Rear jump seats

Mini Fixed back leaning post

24S Sport Console

Molded in Console front seat and cooler

Under Gunnel rod racks and options freshwater and saltwater washdown

U-Shaped forward seating

26 GAL Transom Livewell

ADVENTURE AWAITS

The 24 SPORT is rigged and ready for whatever you want to throw at it. With custom options for diving, fishing, and on-the-water fun, the 24S is a perfect fit for the whole family.

READY TO FISH

READY TO EXPLORE

READY TO WIN

BUILD YOUR BOAT

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Our History

The contender experience

Conservation

We built our first Contender in 1978, acquiring the builders license since 1991. In over 40 years we have constantly tried to improve our boats starting from the suggestions of the best sailors nationally and internationally, first of all the 7-time world champion Andrea Bonezzi. Proof of the high level reached are the results of our contenders in the most important international regattas, where they are constantly at the top, occupying 80% of the top ten positions. We handcraft the boats in our Riva del Garda shipyard, thus being able to guarantee total control of production and ensuring a high degree of customization: our boats can in fact have the most disparate finishes, from simple painting to the use of aluminized fabrics, to the wood. The production of the laminates takes place through the infusion of epoxy resins, a technology that limits the contact of the resin by the operator; the use of equipment such as the painting booth and the suction benches ensures the lowest possible emission of dust in the various processing phases. The production cycle is completed with the disposal of processing waste or their recycling according to EU regulations

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