Which Would You Choose? The Rolex Yacht-Master Everose 37mm vs 40mm
The Yacht-Master has been an unashamedly high-end variation on the Submariner theme ever since it launched back in 1992. Only available in the most precious of precious metals, including being the watch to introduce Rolex’s own steel and platinum alloy Rolesium to the world, it has always been aimed squarely at the luxuriously active lifestyle market.
So the release of the two Everose gold, black dial versions in 2015 raised some luxuriously active eyebrows. With nothing quite like it emerging from the Rolex lair before, the 40mm ref. 116655 and its smaller brother, the 37mm ref. 268655 played host to several pioneering features.
They became the first Yacht-Masters to sport matt black dials, a more restrained but still unmistakably masculine element which is echoed across onto the sandblasted bezels; again, the only time Cerachrom has been used in the series.
Housing two different calibers, the Cal. 3135 inside the 40mm version has been a staple of Rolex watches for nearly 30 years, but the 2236 that powers the 37mm is their first movement to contain a silicon composite, or Syloxi, hairspring. Found originally in the ladies Datejust Pearlmaster range, the smaller Yacht-Master became the first men’s watch with the movement.
But it’s the bracelet, the sophisticated black Oysterflex band , which marked the biggest departure from the norm. What could well be mistaken for a simple rubber strap actually keeps completely true to Rolex’s prevailing theory that anything worth engineering is worth over-engineering.
Inside is a thin titanium nickel alloy blade, overmoulded with a hypoallergenic elastomer. The result is a strap as durable as a metal bracelet and supple enough to conform to the natural shape of your wrist. Two longitudinal ridges underneath play the twin roles of cushioning the watch, preventing it from shifting around as you wear it, while also allowing fresh air to circulate between the strap and your skin to provide more comfort on warm days.
Secured with the same rock solid Oysterlock clasp you’d find on the brand’s metal bracelets, Rolex’s first foray into rubber straps is a typically striking one.
Overall, the dramatically different Yacht-Master duo has proved extremely popular. The unorthodox combination of Everose and black gives the watch an aura of coolness it hasn’t had before and has also made its way onto the latest generation of the watch world’s current hottest player, the Cosmograph Daytona.
In fact, there’s just one debating point that remains amongst the brand faithful. The Yacht-Master is the only sports watch in the range to be offered in a choice of sizes.
Let’s take a look at what that distinction means.
37mm versus 40mm
First off, let’s get the financials out of the way. There is understandably a price difference between the two, but it’s hardly what you’d call a gulf and won’t be a factor for the Yacht-Master’s target audience. Those with enough buying power to spend $22,000 on a watch are unlikely to suddenly balk at $25,000.
So the choice comes down to one of aesthetics. On its launch in 1992, the Yacht-Master was actually available in three different sizes—a 29mm ladies version, a mid-size 35mm and the full-scale 40mm. Today, there is no official ladies size, but the new 37mm watch is listed under both the men’s and women’s section on the Rolex website.
The main reason is obviously the current trend for women wearing larger watches, but another factor could be the use of Everose gold. The pinkish quality of the metal sees it blend in slightly with skin tones, making the watch appear smaller than it actually is.
However, out of the Yacht-Master range, the black dial and bezel variants are definitely the least showy, and the 37mm case is also a popular choice for men content to wear a very discreet watch; one that doesn’t need to shout, fits more comfortably under a shirt sleeve and benefits from a lighter overall weight.
As for the 40mm watch, what would have been considered exceptionally large a few decades ago, is now very much an average. With that Everose effect of wearing smaller than the actual size, even men with slender wrists who usually opt for more modest pieces have been deciding to wear the bigger of the two models.
For an added bonus, with the contemporary thinking of bigger equals better, 40mm Yacht-Masters are enjoying a healthier resale value on the pre-owned market, if you decide you want to sell it on at some point down the road.
Conclusion on the Everose Yacht-Master
So, 37mm or 40mm? There is, of course, no right or wrong answer. The only choice is which size is better for you.
Whichever you choose, what you’ll come away with is a very interesting chapter in Rolex’s long running story. The Swiss watchmaking colossus has a history of quietly releasing radically altered variants on some of their most timeless designs. The 116655 and 268655 appeared with very little fanfare and have gone on to become real favorites among the brand’s devotees.
Whether they will go on to become all-time classics, it’s too soon to call. But with just enough subtle nods to Rolex’s illustrious past, such as picking the Yacht-Master name out in red, harking back to the Double Red Sea-Dwellers of the sixties, and combining them with a host of never-before-seen features, I wouldn’t bet against it.
About Paul Altieri
Paul Altieri is a vintage and pre-owned Rolex specialist, entrepreneur, and the founder and CEO of BobsWatches.com. - the largest and most trusted name in luxury watches. He is widely considered a pioneer in the industry for bringing transparency and innovation to a once-considered stagnant industry. His experience spans over 35 years and he has been published in numerous publications including Forbes, The NY Times, WatchPro, and Fortune Magazine. Paul is committed to staying up-to-date with the latest research and developments in the watch industry and e-commerce, and regularly engages with other professionals in the industry. He is a member of the IWJG, the AWCI and a graduate of the GIA. Alongside running the premier retailer of pre-owned Rolex watches, Paul is a prominent Rolex watch collector himself amassing one of the largest private collections of rare timepieces. In an interview with the WSJ lifestyle/fashion editor Christina Binkley, Paul opened his vault to display his extensive collection of vintage Rolex Submariners and Daytonas. Paul Altieri is a trusted and recognized authority in the watch industry with a proven track record of expertise, professionalism, and commitment to excellence.
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Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Ultimate Buying Guide
In the realm of luxury timepieces, the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 stands as a paragon of elegance fused with practicality. Debuted in the 1990s, this model immediately set a new benchmark in the world of high-end watches. Enclosed in a robust 40mm Oyster case, the Yacht-Master 40 is not just a watch, but a statement of sophistication and versatility. Available in an array of materials – luxurious yellow gold and Everose gold, the classic combination of steel and gold, or sleek steel and platinum. Each variant presents its own allure that caters to the diverse tastes of luxury watch aficionados.
This timepiece surpasses mere functionality. It’s a symbol of a lifestyle, appealing to those who appreciate fine craftsmanship and timeless design. Its sporty yet elegant demeanor makes it equally fitting for a regatta or a high-profile business meeting.
As we explore the rich history and the various models of the Yacht-Master 40, we invite connoisseurs and aspiring collectors alike to explore what makes this Rolex creation not just a watch, but a legacy wrapped around the wrist.
A Brief History of the Rolex Yacht-Master 40
The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 , since its inception in 1992, has charted a course marking key milestones that exemplify Rolex’s commitment to excellence and innovation. The journey began with the release of reference 16628, a model in full gold with a pristine white dial, instantly capturing the essence of luxury sports watch design.
By 1994, Rolex expanded the horizon of the Yacht-Master 40 with a new ref 16628, this time featuring a captivating blue sunray dial. This addition not only diversified the collection but also reinforced the Yacht-Master’s position as a symbol of sophistication and nautical spirit.
The end of the decade, in 1999, saw Rolex introduce the Rolesium model, an ingenious blend of steel and platinum. This model offered a fresh perspective within the luxury watch market with a new blend of materials.
The 2000s were marked by further diversification, with Rolex unveiling two-tone metal versions and introducing mother of pearl dials, adding a new layer of elegance to the collection.
In a significant leap forward, 2012 brought with it a series of enhancements: the introduction of rhodium and blue cobalt dials added depth to the Rolesium model’s monochrome style, while the upgrade to the Easylink extension system and the transition to blue Chromalight lume signaled Rolex’s focus on both aesthetics and functionality.
The year 2015 was a hallmark in the Yacht-Master’s history with the launch of the 116655 model – Rolex’s first foray into crafting a watch entirely from Everose gold and debuting the Oysterflex bracelet, setting a new standard in the luxury watch industry.
In 2016, the introduction of the steel and Everose Yacht-Master 40 ref 116621, and in 2019, the unveiling of new models equipped with the Caliber 3235 automatic movement, underscored Rolex’s unceasing pursuit of horological excellence.
Today, the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 remains a key part of Rolex’s portfolio as the choice watch of individuals with a taste for luxury and passion for the open seas.
<> Most Popular Models of the Rolex Yachtmaster 40
The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 is available in a wide range of metal configurations. Here are the most popular references from the collection.
Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Steel Yellow Gold Slate Dial 16623
The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Steel Yellow Gold Slate Dial 16623, introduced in 2005, represents a unique blend of Rolex’s commitment to luxury and sportiness. This model is particularly notable for its two-tone Rolesor design as it skillfully combines 904L stainless steel with 18-karat yellow gold. This combination demonstrates a more sports-oriented rendition of Rolex’s classic two-tone style, appealing to enthusiasts who favor the sport watch aesthetic in a more lifestyle-oriented context.
One of the distinct features of the 16623 model is its bidirectional rotating bezel, crafted entirely from 18-karat yellow gold. This choice sets the Yacht-Master 16623 apart from other similar models, especially considering the stainless steel crown, which differs from the usual Rolex design where the crown often mirrors the gold elements.
The dial options, including white, silver, champagne, blue, brown, and mother of pearl, provide a spectrum of styles ranging from understated elegance to more striking appearances. The slate dial, pictured here, offers a sleek look that balances the gold construction of the timepiece.
At the heart of this model is the Rolex Caliber 3135 movement, celebrated for its reliability, precision, and a 48-hour power reserve. This movement is a testament to Rolex’s engineering prowess, offering longevity and consistent performance. The Yacht-Master 16623, with its blend of robust functionality and luxurious design, is a prime example of Rolex’s ability to create watches that are both visually striking and functionally sound, suitable for both nautical adventures and everyday elegance.
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Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Steel Platinum Rhodium Dial 116622
The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Steel Platinum Rhodium Dial, Reference 116622, introduced in 2016, is the embodiment of Rolex’s pursuit of excellence in luxury watchmaking. This model is notable for its unique combination of materials and design elements, making it a standout in the Yacht-Master series.
The watch’s 40mm Oyster case and sporty Oyster bracelet are constructed using stainless steel, while its bezel is crafted from 950 platinum. This blend of rugged stainless steel and ultra-precious platinum, known as Rolesium, gives the watch a distinctive monochromatic look but with contrasting textures. The high-polished raised numerals on the bezel set against a sandblasted background, combined with polished center links on the bracelet flanked by brushed-finish outer links, create a visually appealing effect.
The dial of the watch is available in dark rhodium, accented with a turquoise seconds hand and matching YACHT-MASTER text. The dial ensures excellent legibility in low light conditions, thanks to ample lume, and features the signature date window at 3 o’clock, complete with a Cyclops magnification lens on the sapphire crystal.
At the core of this model is the Caliber 3135 movement, a mainstay of Rolex since 1988, known for its reliability and precision. The movement offers a 48-hour power reserve and is backed by the Superlative Chronometer standard. The movement also includes a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring for improved resistance to magnetic fields and shocks.
Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Steel Everose Gold Chocolate Dial 116621
The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Steel Everose Gold Chocolate Dial 116621, unveiled in 2016, represents an elegant fusion of luxury and maritime spirit. This model is part of Rolex’s ongoing evolution of the Yacht-Master series, which has consistently introduced new materials and color schemes to diversify its appeal.
The 116621 stands out with its unique ‘Rolesor’ combination, melding stainless steel with Rolex’s exclusive Everose Gold, a proprietary rose gold alloy. This blend lends the watch a distinctive, sophisticated look, further enhanced by its dark brown ‘chocolate’ dial. The use of rose gold and brown is a common theme for Rolex, offering warmth and luxury appeal to the timepiece.
This model maintains the classic Yacht-Master design, including a 40mm case with elegantly rounded lugs and a large, easy-to-read dial. The bezel is crafted from a solid block of Everose gold, featuring large, raised numerals set against a sand-blasted background, which provides a striking contrast and adds to the watch’s elegance.
The Rolex Yacht-Master 116621 is powered by the Calibre 3135 movement, known for its precision and durability. This automatic movement ensures reliable timekeeping and includes the blue Parachrom hairspring for better resistance to magnetic fields and impacts. The watch also benefits from Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer certification, guaranteeing exceptional accuracy.
Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Gold Oysterflex Strap 116655
The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Ref. 116655, introduced in 2015, marked a significant evolution in Rolex’s Yacht-Master series. This model is particularly notable for being the first Yacht-Master model in solid Everose gold, and the first in the Yacht-Master range to feature the innovative Oysterflex bracelet, Rolex’s unique take on the rubber strap, a departure from their traditional metal bracelets.
The 116655 is also well known for replacing the precious metal bezel with Cerachrom, Rolex’s term for ceramic, used here in matte black to complement the sleek Oysterflex strap. This design choice added a new aesthetic dimension to the Yacht-Master line, offering a sportier and more contemporary look.
The case of the Yacht-Master 116655 is crafted from 18k Everose gold, Rolex’s own blend of gold and copper with a hint of platinum, adding durability and color longevity to the gold’s hue. This combination of Everose gold with the matte black elements of the dial and bezel creates a striking contrast, enhancing the watch’s luxurious yet sporty appeal.
At its core, the watch houses the Caliber 3135 movement, a mainstay of Rolex’s engineering excellence. Known for its reliability and precision, the Caliber 3135 offers a 48-hour power reserve and features a Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring, enhancing the watch’s resistance to magnetic fields and shocks.
Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Gold Pave Diamond Dial 116655
The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Gold with Pave Diamond Dial, model 116655, introduced in 2018, stands as a luxurious and distinctive addition to the Rolex Yacht-Master collection.
Just like the previous edition, the Everose gold is used in the Oyster case, which measures 40 mm in diameter and is paired with a bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel with a matte black Cerachrom insert.
The defining feature of this model is its diamond-paved dial, radiating luxury and exclusivity. The dial, complemented by the Chromalight display, enhances readability and adds to the watch’s allure. The Oysterflex bracelet, a fusion of flexible metal blades overmolded with high-performance elastomer, offers comfort, durability, and an elegant look.
Inside, the watch is powered by the self-winding Calibre 3135 movement by Rolex, known for its precision and reliability. The movement boasts features like a Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring which offers greater resistance to shocks and temperature changes.
<> Final Thoughts
Each model of Yacht-Master 40 , from the earliest introductions to the latest innovations, showcases Rolex’s dedication to precision, elegance, and durability. These timepieces are not just mere accessories; they are statements of style and sophistication, reflecting the spirit of nautical adventure melded with luxurious living.
For enthusiasts and collectors looking to dive deeper into the world of Rolex Yacht-Master 40, SwissWatchExpo offers a diverse range of these models. Whether it’s the allure of the diamond-paved dials, the robustness of the Oyster case, or the precision of Rolex’s in-house movements, the Yacht-Master 40 series promises to elevate both your maritime adventures and everyday elegance with unmatched grace and performance.
Explore our selection of Rolex Yacht-Master 40 models, along with thousands of watches from the world’s best brands, at SwissWatchExpo.com .
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COMMENTS
I’ve been looking to pick up a Rolex yacht master 126622 recently and I’ve been really stuck between the 40mm and 37mm. I have pretty slim 6 - 6.25 inch wrists so I generally tend to pick watches on the smaller side but as you probably know, the yacht master actually wears pretty slim compared to the submariner with a lug to lug of only 47 ...
Precious on land and at sea. Available in three diameters – 37, 40 and 42 mm – and in various precious versions – 18 ct yellow, white and Everose gold – as well as in Everose Rolesor and Rolesium versions, the Yacht-Master is unique in the world of Rolex professional watches.
On its launch in 1992, the Yacht-Master was actually available in three different sizes—a 29mm ladies version, a mid-size 35mm and the full-scale 40mm. Today, there is no official ladies size, but the new 37mm watch is listed under both the men’s and women’s section on the Rolex website.
Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Models in Rolesor Steel and Yellow Gold and Steel Everose Gold. The dial options, including white, silver, champagne, blue, brown, and mother of pearl, provide a spectrum of styles ranging from understated elegance to more striking appearances.
I have a 6.3ish wrist and the 37 YM fits perfectly. I could wear the 40 (as I own a 40m Sub) and “make it work” but the best proportions for me would be 37. I have a few pictures but still can’t figure out how to share them here!
The Yacht-Master in 18 kt Everose gold is available in two diameters: 37 mm and 40 mm. Each of these versions is also available with a diamond-paved dial. The 18 kt yellow gold and 18 kt white gold versions are reserved for the Yacht-Master 42.