sailboat rigging tension

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• Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

Standing Rigging: How Tight Is Right?

Standing rigging tension is a peculiarly under-addressed subject. Easy to see how it would worry a new boat owner or someone going to sea.

Most experts step aboard, yank or twang the shrouds and stays and mutter, Pretty slack, Too Tight, or, Thats about right.

Youll find in the sailing literature very few discussions of the question: What does tight mean?

Even riggers rarely explain how much tension they like to see.

There are a few sailors who like the rigging so tight you could send an elephant up the backstay. It can result in excessive loads and wear on fittings, chain plates and the hull. The ultimate penalty for those who can’t stand any sag in the forestay is what ocean racing sailors call a gravity storm or, less dramatically, dropping the rig.

Others like to take up the slack just enough so that the rig is at rest when the boat is motionless. This approach sometimes leaves excessive slack to leeward that can result in shock loads, excessive wear and misalignment in fittings. It may take longer, but the ultimate penalty is the same.

In between (and probably in the most logical position) are those who like to take up the slack and stretch the wire just a bit. This is frequently accomplished, at least for the stays, with an adjustable backstay. When sailing, especially on the wind, tighten down to minimize slack in the forestay. When reaching, running or at anchor, ease off.

But the question is: How much stretch…especially in the shrouds?

If you stretch the wire 5% of its breaking strength, it will be considered moderate tension. Crank in 15% of the breaking strength and it is regarded as tight. These figures apply for any diameter of wire. You need only know the wires breaking strength.

Three years ago, in the June 15, 1995 issue, we published a discussion of the views of author Richard Henderson, Skenes Elements of Yacht Design and several riggers, along with an evaluation of an excellent booklet published by Sailsystems about a Selden Mast approach (described in detail in the October 15, 1991 issue) and an entirely new method developed by Michael Dimen, who called his gadget a Rigstick.

Mentioned was the familiar (see photo) Loos rigging tension gauge, which comes in two sizes. The Model 91 ($39) is for wire 3/32″ to 5/32″. The Model 90 ($45.50) is for 3/16″ to 9/32″. The gauge depends on the bending property of aluminum plate.

The strange-looking gauges don’t willingly produce great accuracy because you have to hold one reading steady while noting another, which also requires that you make a judgment about where the centerline of the wire falls on a scale. Not easy to do.

The big name in galvanized and stainless cable (as wire is called in the trade), cable hardware and tools, Loos & Co., Inc. went looking for a better mousetrap.

Who did Gus Loos go to? The guy who designed the original gauge, his old friend, Donald J. Jordan, an 82-year-old retired Pratt & Whitney engineer who has been sailing out of Marblehead, Massachusetts, in the likes of Lightnings, Friendship sloops, Sound Schooners (which was the prized New York Yacht Club class in 1918), Pearson Wanderers and currently in a 16′ Starling Burgess design, appropriately called a Marblehead.

The old tension gauge wasnt bad, said Jordan. But it tended to get bent. Then the patent ran out and I told Gus we could do a better one.

The new version (see photo) is a distinct improvement over the old aluminum version. A better design, its also much more substantially made of aluminum, stainless and nylon.

The design problems were interesting, Jordan said. A conventional cable tension gauge has two rollers at the ends with a spring-loaded plunger in the middle and a dial gauge to measure the plunger movement. The wheels have to rotate…because they must permit some small but vital movement. That makes the tool expensive. My approach was to have two stationary wheels and a carefully contrived square slider in a arc-slot on the other.

The new Loos gauges use a long-lasting stainless spring to produce the tension. Slip the lower grooved wheels on a shroud or stay, pull the lanyard to engage the upper hook, relax, read the tension at your leisure and consult the scale to learn the pounds of pressure on the wire and the percentage of breaking strength of the wire. There are three wire gauge notches in the edge. The gauge can be left on the wire while turnbuckle adjustments are made.

The accompanying booklet, very well-done, contains a good tight discussion of the subject; some recommendations; a table on how to equalize tension in different sizes of wire, and line-drawn diagrams clearly showing rig tensions (windward and leeward) created by light, medium and heavy winds.

The wire gauge comes in three sizes, for 3/32″-5/32″, 3/16″-1/4″ and 9/32″-3/8″. West Marine sells them, respectively, for $57.99, $69.99 and $$122.99. Defender Industries cuts them to $49.95, $51.95 and $105.95. Prices in the BOAT/U.S. catalog are in between.

What if, instead of 1×19 wire, you have rod rigging? There are four new models that are bigger, heavier and, of course, more costly. They work the same, but take some arm strength. One is for .172-.250 rod, another for .281-.375. Two others models are for metric rod. West Marine sells the rod gauges for $186.99. Neither Defender nor BOAT/U.S. shows them in their catalogs.

Contact- Loos & Co., Inc., 901 Industrial Blvd., Naples, FL 34104, 800/321-5667. Rigstick, 311 Jackson, Port Townsend, WA 98368; 800/488-0855. Sailsystems, PO Box 1218, Marblehead, MA 01945; 978/745-0440.

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Rig tuning: a practical guide for sailors

• August 28, 2023

Correct rig tension will maximise the efficiency of your boat’s sails as well as reduce stresses on the mast. David Pugh demonstrates simple rig tuning

Safety is the number one benefit of tuning your rigging

As a cruising sailor, it’s tempting to simply set up your sail boat rig at the beginning of the season, then leave well alone.

Perhaps you leave the mast up, perhaps you mark the position of the turnbuckles before the mast comes down, perhaps you set the rig up from scratch or perhaps you pay an expert.

All these can work, but none are immune from one basic problem: boats move.

How much depends on the boat’s construction, particularly whether the mast is keel- or deck- stepped, but most will do so within a few days or weeks after the initial rig tension is applied.

The boat may continue to do so over time and rigging may stretch, especially when new, so it’s worth knowing how to correct it yourself.

My own boat, Contessa 26 Red Dragon , is a devil for this.

During the winter she sits on a trailer with the mast down, the keel supported along its length and in turn supporting the superstructure, aided by six pads and a bow post bearing on the boat hull .

At launch, these forces all change: the buoyancy of the hull now supports the keel, and the mast foot pushes down on the laminated deck beam under the step.

The rigging, meanwhile, increases the pressure on the step while trying to pull the chainplates through the deck.

I’ve never measured her beam before and after applying rig tension, but I suspect she becomes significantly wider.

She certainly doesn’t maintain her initial rig tension.

Benefits of rig tuning to get the correct tension

The first and most fundamental benefit of correct rig tension is safety.

An improperly supported mast is put under all sorts of stresses that it is not designed to endure, and dismasting can be the result.

Try sighting up the mast when the boat is close-hauled in a good breeze.

If the lee shrouds are slack and the middle or top of the mast is sagging to leeward, your mast is not properly supported and you should check your rig tension.

The second benefit is efficiency.

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The combination of rig, spars and sails is anything but simple, and if your s ailmaker has done their job properly and measured your boat rather than making your sails from documented figures, the luff curve of the main and the hollow of the jib or jibs will have been cut to suit the bend in the mast and the forestay tension at the time of measurement.

That means you’ll need to be able to replicate that situation when you set up the rig in order to gain maximum efficiency from your sails.

And, just to make things harder, as time goes by and your sails stretch, these optimum settings will change.

Conditions also affect the best settings for your rig.

Light airs demand softer settings than sailing in a gale, and you’ll often see racers tweaking their rig tensions to suit the conditions.

For cruisers seeking to set up and forget about their rig, the best option is to err towards setting up the boat for stronger winds, especially with shroud tension.

Forestay tension can be more dynamic, provided your boat has an adjustable backstay.

Simple rig set up

Some boats have designer’s recommendations for mast rake, bend and rig tension – if yours is one of them, follow the instructions.

The rest of us are obliged to make it up from scratch – so where do you start?

While some professional riggers might be able to assess the tension in a wire with a carefully calibrated shove, the rest of us need a bit of help.

You can either buy a rig tension gauge or measure the extension of the wire.

This latter method works on the basis that, for 1×19 rigging wire, an elongation of 1mm over 2m equates to 5% of the break load of the wire.

Seldén have a good explanation on their website – search ‘Seldén rig set-up’.

The tension you are aiming for will vary from boat to boat and between types of rigging wire, but a gauge will make it much easier to keep the tension even on opposite shrouds.

For the initial set-up the boat should ideally be floating level – it makes it much easier to see whether, despite the measurements, everything looks right.

I find it’s best to be on a finger berth, which allows you to get off the boat to assess whether the mast is upright.

Make sure that the mast is upright

If you’re starting from scratch, begin by centring the mast in the boat.

Leave the lowers fairly slack and use the main halyard to measure to the chainplates on each side.

You can then adjust the bottlescrews to make sure the cap shrouds are of equal length.

Use the main halyard to measure to the cap shroud chainplates on both sides

If your boat is symmetrical, the mast will be upright.

If your mast is keel-stepped, insert the chocks in the partners now before you apply rig tension.

Finally, tighten the cap shroud bottlescrews hand-tight, making sure you put the same number of turns on each.

Set up the mast rake

Next, set the mast rake. If you have a setting from the designer, use it.

If not, you’re most likely looking for a rake of between 1° and 2°, or 1:60 to 1:30.

So for a 9m mast, you would expect the offset between masthead and mast foot to be between 15cm and 30cm.

Measure it by hanging a weight from the main halyard and measuring the distance between the weight and the mast foot.

The forestay bottlescrew sets mast rake

If it’s windy, hanging the weight in a bucket of water will help damp the swing of the halyard.

Pull on a little backstay before using the forestay bottlescrew to move the masthead fore or aft and adjust the rake.

The backstay helps the masthead to move – with no tension, the forestay will simply become slack as you back off the bottlescrew.

Steeper rakes tend to go with fractional rigs, but this is by no means a rule – you may need to experiment to find what works for your boat.

Increasing the rake will increase weather helm , and vice versa.

Tension the cap shrouds

It’s now time to begin tensioning the rigging properly.

Take the slack out of the lowers at this stage, but don’t tighten them fully yet.

Then, using your tension gauge and making sure you keep the number of turns on each side equal, tension the cap shrouds to their working tension.

Most tension gauges are calibrated to show a percentage of the breaking strength of the wire: with my boat, I find that around 15% is sufficient to keep the rig taut in the conditions in which we sail.

A gauge makes rig set-up easier

If you have a keel-stepped fractional rig with swept spreaders you should carry out this stage with the backstay fully tensioned, as it will initiate a bend in the mast which is fixed by tightening the caps.

If you do this, be careful that the mast does not go out of column side to side – if it does, ease the backstay slightly.

Once the caps are tensioned, sight up the mainsail luff groove to check whether the mast has any bend, fore and aft or side to side.

If you have swept spreaders you can expect it to have some fore and aft bend, but otherwise it should still be in column.

If it isn’t, don’t worry too much unless the bend is large, as you can remove small errors with the lower shrouds.

Sight up the luff groove to check that the mast is in column from side to side

Set the mast pre-bend

The lower (and intermediate, if you have them) shrouds are your opportunity to set fore and aft mast bend, as well as preventing the middle of the mast sagging off to leeward.

It’s advisable to have at least some pre-bend in your mast to avoid it inverting downwind.

For straight spreader rigs, the lowers do all the work in setting bend. Start by tensioning the babystay or forward lowers.

The optimum amount depends on how your mainsail is cut – for a stiff masthead rig like mine I only look for about 10cm of bend with the backstay off, measured by holding the main halyard tight to the foot of the mast and eyeballing the deflection.

Use a second spanner to hold the shroud still when tensioning the bottlescrew

This usually equates to around 7% of the wire break load on the gauge.

For more flexible masts and fractional rigs, you will probably need more bend.

Again, use the tension gauge to keep the tension even from side to side.

Finally, tighten the aft lowers, enough to remove any slack but not to significantly alter the mast bend.

Swept spreader rigs will tend to have lower and intermediate shrouds set abaft the mast, so the simplest thing to do is to tighten them enough to maintain the bend set when you tensioned the cap shrouds.

The tighter they are, the less the mast wants to bend, which will help transfer backstay tension to the forestay but will make it harder to flatten the main with mast bend.

The optimum setting will depend on your sails and the conditions.

Check the mast is straight

With the fore and aft bend set, check the mast is still in column side to side.

Hopefully it will be, but if it isn’t, use the lowers and intermediates to true it up.

On a single spreader rig the aft lowers are usually the best tool for this, but if the bend is significant you might need to relax the opposite forward lower, if there is one, to allow the mast to move.

If you do, make sure you retain the fore and aft bend, and keep checking the tensions in all the lowers to keep them as even as possible.

With the bend set and the mast straight, go back and check the tension in the cap shrouds.

It may have reduced with the mast bend, in which case bring it back up to your desired tension.

Tension the backstay

With the rig basically set up, tension the backstay bottlescrews to your minimum working tension.

I set ours to about 7% of the wire load, with application of the tensioner taking it up to around 17%.

Even on a stiff masthead rig like ours, this compresses the mast enough to introduce significantly more bend, and more importantly for us dramatically increases forestay tension.

With a backstay bridle like this, check the tension above the joining plate

If you don’t use a backstay adjuster, set the backstay to a similar tension to that of the cap shrouds, then go forward and check the forestay.

The tension should be similar, and will help with your upwind performance.

The above will give you a good initial set-up, but there’s no substitute for seeing how it behaves under sail.

Head out in a moderate breeze, put the boat on the wind and hand over the helm to someone else.

Then check your leeward cap shrouds.

They should still be taut in these conditions – if they aren’t, you need more rig tension.

In a moderate breeze, the leeward shrouds should stay taut

Next, sight up the mast to check it is still in column. If the middle sags to leeward, tighten the lowers.

If the tip sags off it could be the middle popping to windward or the tip sagging.

Both over-tight lowers and loose cap shrouds will have this effect, and it can be dangerous as it reduces the angle at which the cap shroud meets the masthead, making its support less effective.

If you have this problem, check your tension settings before making a decision which to alter.

Rig tuning: conclusion

A well-tuned rig makes a boat sail better, while ensuring your mast is correctly supported is a safety essential.

As mentioned at the beginning of this article, boats move, so although you should be able to leave your mast rake and side-to-side centring alone, keep an eye on the shroud tensions.

They may well reduce, especially in the first weeks after setting up the rig, so don’t assume that all is well.

You keep an eye on your engine levels – five minutes with a tension gauge or a wander around the deck under sail will do the same for your rig

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The $tingy Sailor

Diy trailerable sailboat restoration and improvement without throwing your budget overboard.

How To Measure Standing Rigging Tension

Whether or not you’ve replaced your standing rigging, you may be wondering how to adjust it. How tight should the rig be? How can you measure it? After all, what good is great rigging if it isn’t tensioned properly to perform its best?

Before I continue, a bit of legal housekeeping. This post contains affiliate links. That means I receive a small commission if you make a purchase using those links. Those commissions help to pay the costs associated with running this site so that it stays free for everyone to enjoy. For a complete explanation of why I’m telling you this and how you can support this blog without paying more, please read my full disclosure .

A properly tuned rig isn’t only important for racing, it’s also a good idea for cruisers. It minimizes uneven stress and wear on hardware, it’s safer, and it protects the shape of your sails.

Close only counts in horseshoes and hand grenades

Unfortunately, without a tension gauge, tuning your rig is mostly subjective guesswork.

The 1987 (last) edition of the Catalina 22 Owner’s Manual and General Handbook puts it this way:

Adjust forestay and backstay so that the mast is straight up and down. The upper shrouds should be firm but not far apart . A 50 pound push should deflect the upper shroud about 1″ at shoulder height. The lower shrouds (4 of them) should be adjusted so that they are looser than the upper shrouds. While at dock, they should have no slack , but no tension either. No lower shrouds, when pushed, should deflect the mast more than any other shroud when pushed equally hard. If this can’t be achieved, the upper shrouds are too tight. Back off one-half turn at a time on the upper shroud turnbuckles until the tension of the lower shrouds is brought into balance . [Emphasis added]

Not very precise, huh? It doesn’t take very much tension at all on the forestay and backstay just to make the mast plumb and that’s too loose for anything but light air sailing. How much is “far apart?” How exactly do you measure a 50 pound push horizontally against a wire at shoulder height? Standing where, on the cabin or on the deck? How much is “looser” but “without tension?” How do you measure balance between four shrouds without a tool?

That’s like your mechanic telling you that the best way to tune your car’s engine is by ear alone so that it idles well but not too fast and not too slow. It should accelerate smoothly with good power but no cylinder should exceed 10% less compression than any other.

You can’t lose with a Loos

You can skip all the guesswork with a tension gauge. Loos & Co. has manufactured cable in the US for over 50 years. They make the most popular and economical tension gauge for sailors. It’s available in several models depending on the range of cable sizes that you want to measure.

The current model numbers are:

• PT-1 (3/32″ to 5/32″)
• PT-2 (3/16″ to 1/4″)
• PT-3 (1/4″ to 3/8″)

Older models of the gauge can still be found for sale new and used:

• Model A (3/32″ to 5/32″)
• Model B (3/16″ to 9/32″)

The major differences between the newer models and the older models are:

• The older models use a flat spring built into the gauge to measure the tension. The newer models use a coil spring.
• The older models have a slot for the cable. Measuring very tight cables can produce a very slight kink in the cable. The newer models have two round, plastic guides that don’t harm the cable.
• You read the tension on the bottom of the older models. This means you either have to stoop down to read the gauge or use the gauge over your head. You can read the tension on the front of the newer models from a more natural stance.
• The older models have fewer parts and are all metal construction except for the lanyard. The newer models have more parts, some of which are plastic.
• Unlike the older models, the newer models can be hooked onto the cable while you are measuring it so that you can read the tension and your hands are free to adjust the turnbuckle. This is a nice feature that reduces trial and error.

Each gauge has handy notches in the side for measuring cable diameter.

The gauges work on the principle that if you bend a cable by applying a specific amount force, it will bend more or less depending on the size of the cable and how much tension is on the cable. The larger or the more tension on the cable, the less bend. The smaller or the less tension on the cable, the more bend. The gauges use a spring (flat or coil) to measure the amount of bend that results when you bend a cable slightly and they convert that amount into a tension number.

Dialing it in

I use my gauge whenever I modify my standing rigging in any way and periodically to recheck it, especially because I step the mast for every launch.

To measure tension with an older model Loos gauge (the process is slightly different for the newer models):

1. Hook the gauge on the cable. If you have cable covers on the cable, the gauge won’t fit over them, hook the gauge on a bare part of the cable. You read the gauge from the bottom so hook it over your head.

2. Pull the lanyard until the indicator aligns with the mark on the gauge.

3. Read the (bend) number from the scale.

4. Measure the cable size and look up the tension in pounds that corresponds to the cable size in the chart on the gauge. This step is optional unless you’re trying to set the tension to match a recommendation stated in pounds of tension (300, for example). Some recommendations are stated as the equivalent and easier to remember scale number (24, for example). In that case, you don’t need to look up the tension in pounds.

When you know the cable’s tension, you can adjust its turnbuckle to either increase or decrease the tension by measurable amounts. With a little trial and error, you can “dial in” a very accurate amount of tension. Dial in all of your stays and shrouds, and you will have a well-tuned rig. For instructions on using the new model gauges and a video, go to How to use PT Series Tension Gauges .

Once you get your basic rig tension set, you only need to remember the scale numbers and you can confidently adjust it to best suit your style of sailing or changing conditions. There are good guides available online that recommend settings for different conditions. One of the better ones for the Catalina 22 is the Catalina 22 Tuning Guide from North Sails. They have guides for other sailboats as well.

If you don’t know anybody that you can borrow a gauge from, consider getting one of your own from Amazon . Then you’ll have one to loan to others in need.

Stop hoping that your rig tension is close enough. Tool up and dial it in!

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16 thoughts on “ how to measure standing rigging tension ”.

Hey Ken……One of your better articles. Thanks. This has always been a point of interest for us!

Thank you, $tingy! What a great resource!

Ken, for those who don’t want to fork out roughly a $100 bucks for the gauge, they can use my poor man’s version too, which I adopted from a great resource on rig tuning (“Sail & Rig Tuning” by Ivar Dedekam). To determine wire “tension,” I measure wire “stretch.” I do this by first marking a 1-meter length on the respective wire PRIOR TO TIGHTENING TURNBUCKLES. Every 1.0 mm of stretch equals 10% of the wire’s breaking strength, so if I wanted to set my wire’s tension at 15% of breaking strength, I would start applying tension (by tightening my turnbuckles) until the 1-meter length has been stretched to 1-meter plus 1.5 mm. The wire would then be tensioned at 15% of the wire’s breaking strength. If you wanted to use 20% as your base tension, then you would tighten your turnbuckles until the wire stretched an additional 2.0 mm. (Note: This only applies to wire, not rod rigging.) Thanks for another great article!

Good point, Diego. That’s a good way to get in the ballpark.

Thanks Ken. I have an old model Loos that I’ve been using for almost 10 years. I like that it’s got very few moving parts 😉 and i’m pretty sure it’ll hold up another 10 years with no problem. For reference I use the North Sails tuning guide figures you mentioned.

For anyone just starting, keep in mind that you’ll get a lot faster doing it once you’ve done it a few times.

The old ones are built tough. The ability of the new ones to clip it onto a shroud and dial in the right tension on the first try would be convenient, though.

The owner’s manual for the Cat 25 says the standing rigging sizes are 1/8, 5/32, and 3/16. Does that mean I will need both a PT-1 and a PT-2 Loos gauge? The real question: Since I am not going to buy two, which rigging is the most important to tune? The back and fore stays or the the shrouds? Seems to me I ought to be able to “eyeball” the fore and aft rake and use the gauge on the the shrouds. Your opinion?

Hi, Stephen

You must be looking at the halyard wire sizes being 1/8″. All the standing rigging on a C-25 is 5/32″ or 3/16″. At any rate, I wouldn’t want to buy two gauges either.

The shrouds are the most important because they hold your mast in column and centered on the sailboat. The forestay and backstay tension can be adjusted with the backstay adjuster (assuming you have one) depending on sailing conditions so the gauge isn’t as useful for those.

If it were me, I’d get a PT-2 so I knew my upper shrouds were correctly tensioned. Then I’d either extrapolate the 3/16″ settings down to 5/32″ mathematically or borrow a smaller gauge, set the tension on the lower shrouds and then see what the corresponding setting is on the PT-2 and label it right on the gauge. Do that for several settings and you should have a one-size-fits all gauge.

Thanks. Good advice as usual.

On Sun, Jun 26, 2016 at 9:19 PM, The $tingy Sailor wrote:

> $tingy Sailor commented: “Hi, Stephen You must be looking at the halyard > wire sizes being 1/8″. All the standing rigging on a C-25 is 5/32″ or > 3/16″. At any rate, I wouldn’t want to buy two gauges either. The shrouds > are the most important because they hold your mast in column a” >

I’m a new C-22 owner (1985 model year). Should I go with the PT-1 version? I believe I have the original rigging. Thanks for a most helpful post for this novice sailor!

Welcome to the tribe, Tom

Yep, a new model PT-1 or old model A is what you want.

Perfect. Thanks!

Hi Ken. I’m a new owner of a 1973 C22. I bought the PT1. I’m having a hard time finding what my tension should be. Can you share what tension you use? Thanks for all the great info. I’m a fan!

I use the North Sails guidelines as a starting point, which are 28 on the upper shrouds and 24 on the lowers.

This is a very helpful article. Thank you!

My boat is a Catalina/Capri 18. Would you suggest I use the same tensions as you did for your 22?

George Ryan

They might be a little too high. Search the North Sails website for a tuning guide specifically for your 18. If you can’t find one, look for a Capri 18 forum online where you can ask other owners what they’ve found or used.

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What You Need to Know About Rig Tune & Performance

March 18, 2022 Updated August 8, 2024

For many sailors, the relationship between rig tune and performance often seems like a black hole. Quantum’s Dave Flynn takes us on a tour of the core elements of the rig and what you need to know to demystify tuning for optimum performance.

Mastering rig tuning for optimal sail trim and performance might seem daunting, but fortunately it’s not as complicated as tuning a Stradivarius violin! To keep it in perspective, remember you are just pulling on a hunk of aluminum or carbon with cables. To master the rig, there are four elements you need to understand: rake, athwartship tuning, mast bend, and headstay sag. Each of the four elements of rig tune either adds power or takes it away. If you understand the basic mechanics of each element, you can tune your rig to improve trim and overall setup.

Mast rake is a measure of how far the mast is angled aft from a straight vertical. A typical mast rake ranges from one to one-and-a-half degrees on a cruising masthead rig to as much as four degrees on a fractional racing rig. A mast should never be raked forward unless there is something unusual in the boat design (you’ll know if this is the case!). When you add rake to the mast, you tilt the whole sail plan aft. This, in turn, shifts the power aft, pushing more load on the stern and forcing the bow up into the wind, creating weather helm.

Rake is determined by headstay length: The longer the headstay, the greater the rake. To adjust your rake, adjust the length of the headstay. How much rake a boat needs to generate the right amount of weather helm is a function of hydrodynamics (hull form, keel shape, and placement). In most one-design racing classes, where lots of time is invested in figuring out what works best, tuning guides specify headstay lengths for conditions. In more developed classes, this will change as a function of wind speed. You’ll want more rake in light air when it is hard to generate helm and less as the breeze builds. For boat setup and trim, adding rake is a tool for generating power in light air, and reducing rake is part of the de-powering process in heavy air.

For cruisers and many non-one-design rigs, you likely don’t have a tuning guide to work from, so to optimize upwind performance you need some helm loading in light-to-moderate conditions. Three to five degrees of rudder angle in 8kts-10kts of wind is a commonly cited target. To test if this angle works for you, sail upwind in 8kts-10kts and let the helm go; the boat should turn gently into the wind. If it goes straight or bears off, you need more rake and vice versa if it spins out of control. Don’t try this test when it is windy; your boat will round up and exhibit too much helm due to heel not rake, and you’ll get a false read. 

ATHWARTSHIP TUNING

If the rig is not centered, performance and trim will be different tack to tack. To remedy this, center the top of the rig. Using the diagonal shrouds, bring each successive panel in line with the top. The amount of tension you need is tough to predict at the dock–the mast really needs to be under load. Test tension by sailing upwind in 10kts-12kts of breeze with appropriate trim settings and then check the mast. Is it straight when you put your eye to the aft face and look up the mainsail track? If the tip is falling off, you need more upper tension. If the leeward upper shrouds are flopping around, you need more tension for a given velocity. The shrouds should be firm.

Work on the diagonals next. How much tension you need in the leeward diagonals is determined by how stiff the mast is. In over 10 kts, you definitely want the mast to be straight. For more power in light air, you can let the middle of the mast sag an inch or two to leeward to increase the depth in the mainsail. It is common in one-design classes to ease tension on the diagonals in light air to create this smooth sag.

Dinghies and small keelboats are great boats to experiment with how tuning inputs affect your sail plan. The smaller diameter wire shrouds and relatively small masts dramatically show the impact of tuning adjustments. This isn’t as visible on larger racing or cruising boats with rod rigging. Cruisers will want to set a good base athwartship tune as well. If the rig is uneven side-to-side, you will experience frustrating differences in point and power on each tack. Skip the headache and set a good base tune early in the season. Whatever the condition you are sailing in, once you have established good upwind trim, have a look up the mast to make sure it is in column or sagging slightly to leeward in the middle in light air.

If you have an older cruising boat with a mast stiffness that resembles that of a telephone pole, you can skip this section! But for cruisers with a relatively modern rig, swept-back spreaders, traditional sails with flaking system, or even in-boom or in-mast furling, pay attention here.

While rake is the amount the mast is angled aft, mast bend is the amount you bend the mast aft after you have set your rake. A rig that bends gives you a powerful tool for changing the shape of the mainsail: More mast bend flattens the sail and de-powers it; a straighter mast creates shape and power. Rig tune affects how much a mast bends, particularly on modern fractional rig boats with swept back spreaders. But no matter what type of rig you have, you want to start with a little mast bend, or pre-bend, which refers to the amount of bend that has no backstay tension. Lengthening the headstay increases the bending moment and adds pre-bend. This is why it’s important to set the rake first. Other factors affecting the pre-bend are the position of the mast step and the blocking of the mast in the partner, which is the hole where the mast goes through the deck. To add pre-bend, either move the mast step aft or move the mast forward in the partners. A target of 1”-3” of pre-bend is typical on a medium-sized boat. Pre-bend ensures the mast will move forward in the middle and flatten the mainsail when you pull on the backstay.

On a rig with in-line spreaders (typically masthead rigs), the side shrouds have little impact on the mast bend created by pulling on the backstay. On some rigs, however, there are check stays to keep the mast from bending too far. Sometimes there are even multiple sets.

How far is too far when bending the mast? You’ll know when your mainsail develops diagonal wrinkles from the clew up to the luff and is beginning to turn inside out. For maximum de-powering, bend just to the point where wrinkles appear. If available, use check stays to help.

On modern fractional rigs with spreaders swept well aft, the side shrouds have a big impact on mast bend. The diagonal shrouds are controlling not only athwartship tuning but also acting like check stays to inhibit mast bend, since they are swept back and pulling aft. Too tight, and the diagonal shrouds will keep the mast from bending and flattening the mainsail; too loose, and the mast can over-bend and turn the sail inside out. In many classes, overall rig tension is increased by taking turns on the shrouds, shortening the headstay, or pumping the whole rig up with a mast jack for more backstay tension without allowing the rig to over-bend as it gets windier.

HEADSTAY SAG

If some mast bend is good, why isn’t more better? The answer is headstay sag. When the headstay sags, the headsail becomes full and more powerful, which is great in light conditions. But as the breeze builds, you want to reduce the amount of sag as much as possible to de-power the boat and help with pointing. In breeze, it’s all about headstay tension–you can’t get too much. So why is mast bend a factor? When you pull back on the rig with the backstay, it will tighten the headstay, which is good. But you are also pulling down and compressing the rig, which makes it bend. You want some mast bend in order to flatten the mainsail, but not so much that you soften the whole rig and increase headstay sag. This is why we use check stays to control mast bend on a masthead rig and tighter diagonal tension on a swept aft spreader rig.

Rig tune still matters even when you aren’t routinely adding turns to your shrouds based on the wind and conditions. Many modern cruising sailboats with in-mast furling rigs have comparatively smaller tune adjustments, as the rig needs to stay in column for the mainsail to furl properly. Some boats are outfitted with a cascading backstay adjuster that allows for minor tweaks and lets you easily reset the rig when it’s time to furl the mainsail. To get the most performance from your cruising setup, don’t overlook rig tune. Racing sailboats often have their rigs removed for transport and then re-rigged, whereas many cruising boats may never have had the rig adjusted since the boat was first commissioned. If you can't remember the last time your rig was tuned, now is a great time to give your local loft a call.

Having a properly tuned rig is essential to boat setup and performance. While this can be a DIY process, if you have questions or need additional input, please contact a professional rigger or your local loft where our expert Quantum team can help sort out your rig and tune. For one-design tuning guides and resources, select your OD class on the Quantum website or get in touch with a Quantum Class Expert.

Get in touch with David Flynn with additional questions and dive deeper into rig tune for performance. E: [email protected] P: 410-268-1161 ext. 206

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How to tune your rig for optimal performance

Optimizing the performance of your boat's rigging system is crucial for an enjoyable and safe sailing experience. This guide provides step-by-step instructions for tuning your rig and maintaining your sails.

How to Tune Your Rig for Optimal Performance

Sailing is an art that requires constant learning and adaptation. One of the most important aspects of sailing is ensuring that your boat’s rigging and sails are in top condition. In this article, we will discuss how to tune your rig for optimal performance, ensuring that you and your family can enjoy smooth sailing on your adventures.

Table of Contents

Understanding the basics of rigging, the importance of rig tuning, step-by-step guide to rig tuning, sail improvements for better performance, maintaining your rig and sails.

Before we dive into the process of rig tuning, it’s essential to understand the basics of rigging. The rigging system on a sailboat consists of various components, including the mast, boom, shrouds, stays, and sails. These components work together to provide stability, support, and propulsion for your boat.

Mast and Boom

The mast is the vertical pole that supports the sails, while the boom is the horizontal pole attached to the mast’s base. The mast and boom are critical components of your rigging system, as they provide the framework for your sails.

Shrouds and Stays

Shrouds and stays are the wires or ropes that connect the mast to the boat’s hull. They provide lateral and fore-and-aft support for the mast, ensuring that it remains stable and upright. Shrouds are typically attached to the sides of the boat, while stays are connected to the bow and stern.

Sails are the primary means of propulsion for a sailboat. They work by capturing the wind’s energy and converting it into forward motion. There are various types of sails, including mainsails, jibs, and spinnakers, each with its own unique characteristics and uses.

Rig tuning is the process of adjusting your boat’s rigging system to achieve optimal performance. Proper rig tuning can significantly impact your boat’s speed, handling, and overall sailing experience. Some of the benefits of rig tuning include:

• Improved boat speed and pointing ability
• Enhanced sail shape and efficiency
• Reduced wear and tear on rigging components
• Increased safety and stability

By regularly tuning your rig, you can ensure that your boat is always performing at its best, allowing you and your family to enjoy your sailing adventures to the fullest.

Rig tuning can be a complex process, but with the right knowledge and tools, it’s something that any sailor can learn to do. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you tune your rig for optimal performance:

Step 1: Inspect Your Rigging

Before making any adjustments, it’s essential to inspect your rigging for signs of wear, damage, or corrosion. Check all components, including the mast, boom, shrouds, stays, and sails, for any issues that may affect your boat’s performance.

Step 2: Set Your Mast Rake

Mast rake refers to the angle of the mast relative to the boat’s centerline. Adjusting the mast rake can have a significant impact on your boat’s balance and performance. To set your mast rake, follow these steps:

• Attach a weight to your main halyard and let it hang freely over the side of the boat.
• Measure the distance from the halyard to the boat’s centerline at the chainplates.
• Adjust the forestay and backstay until the desired rake is achieved.

Step 3: Adjust Your Shrouds and Stays

Next, you’ll need to adjust your shrouds and stays to ensure proper mast alignment and tension. Follow these steps:

• Loosen all shrouds and stays.
• Tighten the upper shrouds until the mast is straight from side to side.
• Tighten the lower shrouds to remove any side-to-side play in the mast.
• Adjust the forestay and backstay to achieve the desired mast bend.

Step 4: Check Your Rig Tension

Proper rig tension is crucial for maintaining sail shape and boat performance. To check your rig tension, follow these steps:

• Attach a tension gauge to your shrouds and stays.
• Measure the tension in each wire, adjusting as necessary to achieve the desired tension.
• Ensure that the tension is even on both sides of the boat.

Step 5: Fine-Tune Your Rig

Once your rig is properly tensioned and aligned, you can make any final adjustments to optimize performance. This may include adjusting your sail controls, such as the outhaul, cunningham, and vang, to fine-tune sail shape and efficiency.

In addition to rig tuning, there are several sail improvements that you can make to enhance your boat’s performance. Some of these improvements include:

• Upgrading to high-quality sails made from durable, lightweight materials
• Regularly cleaning and inspecting your sails for signs of wear or damage
• Using sail battens to improve sail shape and efficiency
• Installing a roller furling system for easier sail handling and storage

By investing in these sail improvements, you can ensure that your boat is always performing at its best, allowing you to enjoy your sailing adventures to the fullest.

Regular maintenance is essential for keeping your rig and sails in top condition. Some maintenance tasks to consider include:

• Inspecting your rigging for signs of wear, damage, or corrosion
• Lubricating moving parts, such as sheaves and blocks, to reduce friction and wear
• Replacing worn or damaged components, such as shrouds, stays, and sails
• Regularly cleaning your sails to remove dirt, salt, and other contaminants

By staying on top of these maintenance tasks, you can prolong the life of your rig and sails, ensuring that your boat is always ready for your next adventure.

Tuning your rig for optimal performance is an essential skill for any sailor. By following the steps outlined in this article, you can ensure that your boat is always performing at its best, allowing you and your family to enjoy your sailing adventures to the fullest. Remember to regularly inspect and maintain your rig and sails, and don’t be afraid to make improvements and adjustments as needed. With the right knowledge and tools, you can transform your boat into a high-performance sailing machine that’s ready to take on the open sea.

• Boat Rigging: Setting Sail for Success

In the world of sailing, boat rigging plays a crucial role in ensuring the safety, efficiency, and performance of your vessel. From standing rigging to sail rigging types, it's essential to understand the intricacies of rigging a yacht to embark on smooth sailing adventures. In this comprehensive guide, we'll dive into the nuances of boat rigging, helping you navigate the open waters with confidence.

Boat Rigging Basics

Before we delve into the details, let's start with the fundamentals of boat rigging. Understanding the key components and their functions is essential for any sailor, whether you're a novice or a seasoned pro.

Standing Rigging

Standing rigging refers to the fixed support structure of a boat's mast, including wires, cables, and rods. It plays a critical role in maintaining the mast's vertical position and overall stability.

Sail Rigging Types

Sail rigging is not a one-size-fits-all concept, but rather a diverse world with various types and configurations to suit different sailing needs. Understanding these rigging types is essential for any sailor looking to optimize their boat's performance and safety. 

Ship Riggings

Ship riggings have played a pivotal role in shaping the history of seafaring and maritime exploration. These complex systems of ropes, wires, and sails have been integral to the functionality and success of various vessels throughout the ages.Explore the significance of ship riggings, their evolution, and their influence on modern-day boat rigging.

Read more useful sailing tips:

Materials matter.

The choice of materials for your boat rigging is a decision that can't be taken lightly. Two popular options, Dyneema and Kevlar, offer distinct advantages.

Dyneema Rigging

Dyneema rigging represents a breakthrough in the world of sailboat rigging. This cutting-edge material, known for its remarkable strength and low stretch properties, has revolutionized the way sailors experience the open water. Often referred to as the ultimate innovation in the world of sailing, Dyneema rigging offers a myriad of advantages: 

• Exceptional Strength: Dyneema rigging boasts remarkable strength-to-weight ratio, making it incredibly robust and reliable even in demanding conditions. 
• Low Stretch: Dyneema has minimal stretch, which translates to improved sail control and responsiveness, ensuring better performance.
• Lightweight: It's significantly lighter than traditional rigging materials like steel, reducing the overall weight of your vessel and enhancing speed and maneuverability.
• Low Maintenance: Dyneema rigging requires minimal maintenance, offering sailors peace of mind and more time on the water.
• Resistance to Corrosion: Unlike metal rigging, Dyneema is not susceptible to corrosion, ensuring a longer lifespan and durability.
• UV Resistance: Dyneema is highly resistant to UV rays, making it ideal for prolonged exposure to sunlight.
• Easy Handling: Its flexibility and ease of handling simplify rigging installation and adjustments.
• Enhanced Safety: Dyneema's strength and reliability contribute to safer sailing experiences, reducing the risk of rigging failure.
• Versatility: It's suitable for a wide range of applications, from standing rigging to halyards, making it a versatile choice for sailors.
• Eco-Friendly: Dyneema is an environmentally friendly option as it doesn't release harmful substances into the water, contributing to a cleaner marine ecosystem.

Dyneema vs. Kevlar

Weigh the pros and cons of Dyneema and Kevlar to determine which suits your sailing needs best:

Dyneema Rigging:

• Exceptional Strength: Dyneema boasts impressive strength, making it highly reliable for rigging purposes.
• Low Stretch: It has minimal stretch, enhancing sail control and overall performance.
• Lightweight: Dyneema is significantly lighter than traditional materials, reducing the vessel's weight.
• Low Maintenance: Requires minimal upkeep, saving time and effort.
• Corrosion Resistance: Dyneema is not susceptible to corrosion, ensuring durability.
• UV Resistance: It's highly resistant to UV rays, making it suitable for extended exposure to sunlight.
• Safety: Dyneema's strength and reliability contribute to safer sailing experiences.
• Versatility: Suitable for various rigging applications, from standing rigging to halyards.
• Cost: Dyneema can be more expensive than some traditional materials, initially.
• Abrasion Resistance: It may be less resistant to abrasion compared to Kevlar.

Kevlar Rigging:

• Excellent Abrasion Resistance: Kevlar is highly resistant to wear and tear, ensuring longevity.
• High Tensile Strength: It offers impressive tensile strength, making it suitable for demanding applications.
• Stiffness: Kevlar is stiffer than Dyneema, which can be advantageous for some rigging configurations.
• Heavy: Kevlar is heavier than Dyneema, potentially impacting vessel performance.
• Low UV Resistance: It is less resistant to UV radiation, which can affect its durability over time.
• Higher Stretch: Kevlar tends to stretch more than Dyneema, which can impact sail control.
• Prone to Corrosion: Unlike Dyneema, Kevlar can be susceptible to corrosion.
• Cost: It can be expensive, and the initial investment may be higher than other materials.

Choosing between Dyneema and Kevlar depends on your specific sailing needs and priorities. Dyneema is favored for its strength, low stretch, and light weight, while Kevlar excels in abrasion resistance and tensile strength. Consider these factors when making your rigging material selection.

Stainless Steel Yacht Rigging

When it comes to yacht rigging, durability is paramount, and stainless steel rigging wires stand out as a top choice. Their robust nature, coupled with an unmistakable touch of elegance, makes them an ideal option for discerning sailors. Stainless steel yacht rigging is highly resistant to corrosion, even in the harsh marine environment. This resistance not only ensures a longer lifespan but also reduces maintenance efforts, allowing you to spend more time on the water. Additionally, the sleek appearance of stainless steel adds a touch of sophistication to your vessel. Whether you're cruising the open seas or participating in regattas, stainless steel yacht rigging combines style and substance to offer a premium sailing experience.

Spectra Standing Rigging

Spectra standing rigging is a game-changer for sailors seeking top-tier performance and durability. This advanced material, known for its incredible strength and low stretch properties, has revolutionized the way we approach standing rigging. Spectra rigging offers advantages that are hard to beat – it enhances the stability and safety of your vessel while providing exceptional responsiveness. The minimal stretch ensures precise sail control, making it the go-to choice for those who demand the utmost from their rigging. If you're looking to take your sailing experience to the next level, Spectra standing rigging is a choice that can't be ignored.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our  Magazine.

Rigging a Yacht: A Step-By-Step Guide

Now that you've grasped the basics and material options, let's dive into the practical aspect of rigging a yacht. Follow these steps to ensure a smooth and safe sailing experience.

Planning and Preparation

Rigging a yacht is a meticulous process that requires careful planning and thorough preparation. Before embarking on your sailing adventure, it's crucial to ensure that every aspect of your yacht's rigging is in top-notch condition. The advantages of this step-by-step guide are manifold. It guarantees the safety of both the vessel and its passengers, reduces the risk of mid-sail complications, and ultimately enhances your overall sailing experience. By meticulously inspecting your rigging and addressing any issues during the planning and preparation phase, you can set sail with confidence, knowing that your yacht is ready to navigate the open waters seamlessly.

Inspecting Your Rigging

Rigging a yacht is a meticulous process that demands careful attention to detail. One crucial aspect is inspecting your rigging. This step ensures the safety and efficiency of your sailing adventure. Regular inspections , even before you set sail, can identify potential issues and help prevent mishaps on the water . Inspecting your rigging is not only a safety measure but also a way to guarantee that your yacht performs at its best, allowing you to enjoy smooth and stress-free sailing experiences.

Rigging Replacement

When it comes to maintaining your yacht's rigging, the necessity of rigging replacement cannot be overstated. Whether due to wear and tear or a desire to upgrade to modern materials, knowing when and how to replace your rigging is crucial.

Specialized Rigs for Small Sailboats

For small sailboat enthusiasts , specialized rigs can enhance your sailing experience. Explore the options available for these nimble vessels.

Ship Rigging Terms

Sailboat rigging comes with its unique terminology. Get acquainted with the essential terms: 

• Mast: The vertical spar or structure that supports sails and rigging.
• Boom: A horizontal spar that extends from the mast to support the bottom of a sail.
• Shroud: Rigging wires that support the mast from the sides.
• Stay: Rigging wires that support the mast from the front or back.
• Halyard: Lines used to raise and lower sails.
• Sheet: Lines used to control the angle of the sails with respect to the wind.
• Jib: A triangular foresail set in front of the mast.
• Tack: The lower forward corner of a sail.
• Clew: The lower after corner of a sail.
• Topping Lift: A line that supports the boom when the sail is not in use.

Understanding these ship rigging terms is essential for efficient and safe sailing, allowing you to communicate effectively with your crew and navigate the open waters with confidence.

Sailboat Stays and Shrouds

Sailboat rigging comprises various components, and among the most critical are sailboat stays and shrouds. Stays are the fixed support cables or wires that keep the mast upright, while shrouds add lateral support, preventing the mast from swaying. These components work together to maintain the mast's stability and ensure safe and efficient sailing. The proper tension and alignment of stays and shrouds are crucial for the overall performance and safety of a sailboat. Regular inspections and maintenance of these rigging elements are essential to prevent wear and tear, making sure they remain reliable on your sailing adventures. Understanding the role of sailboat stays and shrouds is fundamental for any sailor, whether you're navigating coastal waters or crossing the open sea.

In conclusion, boat rigging is a multifaceted subject that greatly influences your sailing experience. Understanding the fundamentals, material choices, and the process of rigging a yacht is essential for a successful voyage.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our  range of charter boats  and head to some of our favourite  sailing  destinations .

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How to Inspect and Tune a Sailboat Rig

• By Ralph Naranjo
• Updated: May 14, 2020

Major mast failures usually begin as minor hardware problems. At least that’s what scrap-bin forensics seems to confirm. So, instead of dreading a dismasting, prevent it with a sensible approach to rig maintenance.

Some sailors inspect their masts and rigging with the spar stepped, but most recognize how much will remain unseen. Riggers recommend that the mast come out every few years and be placed on a pair of sturdy sawhorses ready for close-up scrutiny. My DIY approach focuses on hardware junctions and points where load paths intersect. Packed in my rigger’s bag are the usual hand tools, plus a Scotch pad, a quality magnifying glass and a small digital camera to record the findings. The old rule of thumb is that standing rigging has a decade’s, or one circumnavigation’s, worth of reliability; it’s a benchmark that remains valid today.

Another important issue is the rigging’s designed safety factor, or how much stronger the components are than they need be. The catch here is material deterioration over time, and the fact that there’s a direct correlation between stronger structures and increased reliability. For example, by increasing 1-by-19 shrouds and their attendant hardware from 5/16 inch to 3/8 inch, the higher safe working load translates into a longer life span. It’s a legit assumption, but doing so is both costlier and adds weight aloft, which can rob performance. The same tenets apply for a larger-diameter spar section and greater wall thickness. Engineers and naval architects try to balance these competing factors.

Some decades ago, I watched the deck-stepped spar of my first little cruising sloop drop into the drink. It drove home the fact that it really is the little things that count. In that case, it was a stainless- steel toggle, connected to an upper shroud turnbuckle, which had endured a few too many on-off load cycles. A tiny, nearly invisible crack had opened up, and salt spray had found a new home. The resulting corrosion tipped the scale and led to a dramatic failure. Since then, rig scrutiny has become my obsession.

The old rule of thumb is that standing rigging has a decade’s, or one circumnavigation’s, worth of reliability.

Wire and rod end fittings need a close look, especially in areas where there are brown stains and signs of cracks, pitting or other surface deterioration. This includes an evaluation of clevis-pin holes that should be circular, not elongated. Confer the same level of scrutiny to the clevis pins themselves. Don’t confuse stainless-steel clevis pins with chrome-plated bronze pins. The latter are just fine when used in bronze fittings, but when a bronze clevis pin is placed in a stainless-steel chainplate hole, the bronze pin can be carved away by the much harder stainless-steel chainplate.

My inspection process includes a rigging-wire wipe-down with a rag that easily snags on tiny cracks. It includes careful scrutiny of hardware junctions. I search for signs of chafe, especially where fiber or wire running rigging makes directional changes at sheave boxes, and around where the headsail furler’s top swivel rides. Looking closely at masthead exit points, I check for sheave wobble, excess side play and signs of pulley damage.

This is also the time to sort out halyards that are rubbing against external or internal obstructions. I use a bright, narrow-beam LED flashlight for a good visual inspection of the internal portion of the mast. Not only will it pinpoint screws and sheave boxes that might be causing chafe, but it also will help you untangle crossed halyards and confirm fairleads. While working at the heel end of the spar, look closely for corrosion and a condition riggers call “elephant foot.” It’s an actual wrinkling of the alloy tube section caused by too much compression and a too-thin wall section. It’s most often seen on raceboats with powerful hydraulic mast-adjusting systems, and on cruising boats that have pounded into too many steep wave faces.

Roller furling foils hide the wire or rod on which they spin. Rigging end fittings and terminals can usually be inspected, but a broken strand of wire inside the foil might initially go unnoticed, at least for a little while. This is another reason why offshore cruisers opt for a cutter or solent rig that adds a second stay for some extra ­insurance. Following the once-a-­decade rule, it makes sense to completely disassemble furling systems, and replace the wire along with any worn bearings, bushings or plastic spacers.

My inspection process includes a wire wipe-down with a rag that easily snags on tiny cracks. I search for signs of chafe everywhere.

Keep in mind that when the mast is unstepped, many roller furling drums and head foils (especially on boats with deck-stepped rigs) extend beyond the heel of the spar. If the yard doesn’t splint and immobilize the extended foil and drum, do it yourself. All it entails is a couple of 2-by-4’s, or a pair of old oars lashed or duct-taped to the mast just above the heel. This double splint should extend to the base of the roller-furling drum where it too is lashed or taped. It keeps the drum from dangling and bending the foil during transport, and while the rig is stored on a mast rack.

Spreaders also deserve a really close look. All too often, excess anti-chafe protection results in the spreader tips becoming a water trap that turns into a hidden corrosion bath. So, when the rig is down, cut away the spreader-tip padding, and use white vinegar and a plastic scrub pad to get rid of any white powdery oxidation. Remove the spreaders from the spar, and inspect the area where spreader bases make contact with the mast. Look for compression damage to the mast wall and signs of corrosion damage. If all is well, reassemble using one of the tried-and-proven water-resistant lubricants. I’ve settled on Lanocote, McLube Sailkote and Super Lube, using Boeshield T-9 and WD-40 as my go-to spray protectant and penetrant. Throw away the old cotter pins, and use new pins on all of the reassembled rigging.

“She’ll be right, mate,” was the favorite phrase of an old Kiwi friend, but it isn’t good advice when it comes to keeping the rig where it belongs. Don’t shy away from calling in a qualified rigger to handle larger problems.

Most boatyards will restep spars but won’t tune the rig. Their goal is to set up the mast and rigging to approximate how it arrived. Occasionally, they hit the mark and even replace the mast wedges appropriately. Otherwise, I wait for a flat calm to make sure that the boat has no list. This involves using a tape measure to confirm the athwartship trim (waterline to rail-height port equals waterline to rail-height starboard). Then I check the perpendicular and rake of the mast using the main halyard with a makeshift plumb bob (dive weight) attached. The retune requires loosening the turnbuckles and incrementally retensioning the rigging. Small amounts of headstay and backstay adjustment relocates the masthead, causing the makeshift plumb bob to move significantly. I use prior measurements from previous mast-tuning successes to set the rake to a sweet spot that, in the past, delivered a minimal amount of weather helm.

With the rake set, I insert a set of teak or high-density hard-rubber wedges between the mast and the mast partners. These wedge-shaped spacers have a top flange that prevents them from falling into the bilge when the mast compresses on one side of the partners and opens the gap wider on the other. With all the wedges set, I incrementally add tension to the rig, tightening headstay and backstay first, while carefully maintaining the rake angle. Next, I adjust the upper shroud (or V1), working from side to side to keep the mast perpendicular. Finally, I snug up (but not overtension) the lower and intermediate shrouds. This static tuning sets the stage for an underway final tune, during which I check how well the spar remains in column. Leeward bends and S-curves are problematic and must be minimized. Boats with discontinuous rigging have shrouds that are not one continuous wire run. They utilize turnbuckles located above spreaders that must be individually adjusted to eliminate side bend.

During sea trials, make sure the leeward standing rigging is not overly slack and flopping around like loose spaghetti.

Intentional fore and aft mast bending can influence sail shape, and is put to good use aboard raceboats. Adding such complication to most cruising boats, which are ­normally steered by an autopilot, makes less sense. In-mast furling spars are least happy with powerful hydraulic backstays bowing the mast. So, get sound advice from a rigger/mast builder before adding hydraulic sail-shaping gear.

A sea trial should follow your static mast tune. And as you beat to windward in a modest 10- to 15-knot true breeze, check the leeward standing rigging. Make sure it’s not overly slack and flopping around like loose spaghetti. If so, add more shroud tension to both sides. A tension-testing gauge will work, but many sailors do fine estimating by hand. Cruising-boat rigs shouldn’t have the same amount of rig tension as a raceboat ­beating to windward. However, if your sailboat’s mast is deck-stepped, make sure the coachroof isn’t deforming due to the compression load. A compression post, ring frame or other rigid structure should be spreading such loads. If you’re unsure of the correct rig tune, arrange a session with a rigger or sailmaker—and start the season in optimized trim.

Technical expert Ralph Naranjo has inspected the rig on his Ericson 41, Wind Shadow , on countless occasions.

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Tuning A Sailboat Rig

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If your sailboat seems slower, follow our how-to on tuning your rig for optimal performance.

Photo: Bigstock

Spring is a time of prepping your boat for the coming season. While powerboaters fine-tune their engines, sailors should consider fine-tuning their rigs. Doing it yourself may seem intimidating, but it shouldn't be. Anyone reasonably handy can do it in a few hours. The reward is easier and faster sailing throughout the coming season.

Let's start with the basics for new sailors. With a few exceptions, a sailboat mast is held up by a series of stainless-steel wires. But those wires also perform several other equally important functions. When a sailboat is at rest and there is no wind blowing, the stress on these wires is very light with almost all the load downward toward the keel. However, when the boat is sailing and heeled over in a fresh breeze, more stress is placed on the wires and they have to work harder to hold the mast upright and stop it from bending.

The wires that prevent the mast from moving from side to side are called shrouds, and the ones that prevent fore and aft movement are called stays. The larger and taller the mast, the greater the load, and the number of shrouds and stays required. On a typical cruiser, say up to about 35 feet, there will generally be one forestay, one backstay, and two shrouds on each side.

To get the best performance from your boat and sails, the rigging needs to be set up correctly — often called "tuning the rig." The rig should be tuned with the boat in the water on a day with little to no wind. You'll also want to be away from wakes and other boats that can rock your boat. To start, the turnbuckles for the stays and shrouds should be hand-tight only. This is sufficient to hold up the rig but places no strain on anything — yet. Lay on your back on the boat's foredeck and sight up the front of the mast. It should be perfectly straight with no bends or kinks. Next, tighten the lower shrouds — these are the ones that do not go all the way to the top of the mast and often attach to the mast at the base of the crosstrees (the two horizontal spars at the upper ends of the topmasts).

You'll need a large screwdriver to rotate the turnbuckle, and a wrench to hold the shroud fitting and prevent it turning as you tighten. Give a couple of complete turns on either side. Have a helper release the main halyard and keep a little tension while you pull down the end that normally attaches to the mainsail until it just touches the top of the toerail adjacent to the chain plate. Have your helper cleat off the halyard, then swing the halyard over the boom and check the measurement on the other side. They should be the same. If not, adjust the turnbuckles until they the measurement is equal on port and starboard.

Adjusting and tuning a sailboat rig will often bring benefits such as easier handling and better performance.

Next do the same for the cap shrouds, these are the ones that go to the top of the mast, but note that due to the length of the shrouds, it is easy to bend the mast to either port or starboard. With the shrouds adjusted, sight up the mast one more time to ensure that it is still straight.

Next comes the fore and aft adjustment, which is made with the backstay and forestay. Masts should be plumb or lie back slightly. It should never rake forward. A good starting point is to tighten up the forestay and backstay a little over hand-tight. Use the main halyard as a plumb bob. Cleat off the halyard so the free end is just clear of the top of the boom and let it hang. If the shackle on the end of the halyard hits the mast, the mast is likely too far forward, so slacken off the forestay and tighten the backstay. Adjust a little at a time until the end of the halyard hangs free — 4 or 5 inches is a good starting point.

You'll need to install cotter pins into the turnbuckles to prevent them loosening over time, but before doing that, take the boat for a sail when the wind is blowing about 10 knots and see how everything works. With the boat on a beam reach, note the tightness of the windward shrouds. If they appear slack, they will need to be adjusted up. If the boat is hard on the tiller or wheel and tries to turn into wind, the mast has too much aft rake, so you'll want to slacken the backstay and tighten up on the forestay a little. If the bow wants to turn away from the wind, the mast is too far forward, so you'll need to move the mast back a little.

If you are at all unsure about tackling this task, play it safe and smart — seek out the services of a qualified rigger who has access to rig tension gauges and other specialized tools.

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Contributing Editor, BoatUS Magazine

A marine surveyor and holder of RYA Yachtmaster Ocean certification, BoatUS Magazine contributing editor Mark Corke is one of our DIY gurus, creating easy-to-follow how-to articles and videos. Mark has built five boats himself (both power and sail), has been an experienced editor at several top boating magazines (including former associate editor of BoatUS Magazine), worked for the BBC, written four DIY books, skippered two round-the-world yachts, and holds the Guinness World Record for the fastest there-and-back crossing of the English Channel — in a kayak! He and his wife have a Grand Banks 32.

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Yachting Monthly

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Boat rig checks: 18 ways to refine your yacht

• Toby Heppell
• April 7, 2021

Does your boats weather helm bother you, or does she go better on one tack than the other? Toby Heppell explains how to iron out the foibles with proper boat rig setup

Sailing alongside another boat of the same class can reveal differences in how your boat is sailing.

Have you ever wondered why your boat seems to point better and sail faster on one tack that the other? Or found that the helm remains light in some conditions, but develops a mind of its own in others?

The answers to these and many other niggles with your boat’s handling, may lie in how you’ve got the boat rig set up.

Setting up your boat’s rigging can seem a complex task.

Each piece of rigging has a distinctly different effect on a boat’s balance, feel, and response, and each setting change can have a knock on effect, meaning a single adjustment often leads to something else being set up incorrectly.

Due to this, many of us tend to just set and forget our rigging settings.

When was the last time you thought about shroud tension for example?

Sighting up the mast track will show you if the mast is straight. Credit: Lester McCarthy

I’m willing to bet not recently, unless you’ve noticed your shrouds going slack when they usually would not.

But setting up your boat rig properly can make all the difference to how a yacht sails, whether she is manageable in heavy weather, or can keep making headway in light airs.

Get it right, and sailing is much more fun.

I spent my younger years competing at international sailing events in dinghies before moving on to racing keelboats.

In both of these sports, keeping track of boat rig settings in minute detail was a major part of the sport.

When I moved into the world of cruising for fun, I was amazed to discover so many people barely touched their boat rig setup from year to year, let alone morning to afternoon.

Having raced on a great number of keelboats and tested many new yachts for magazines over the years, my obsession with understanding the numbers has not gone away and continues to be one of the first places I look when a boat is not sailing as well as I might hope.

The subject can be seem endless, but a number of simple concepts can make all the difference between a boat feeling like a dream to sail and one feeling like a pig.

Here’s the list I look over when I first start setting a boat rig up.

Boat rig checks: Static set up

Changes in mast rake have an effect on the balance of the helm.

The more the mast is angled aft (adding rake) the more weather helm you will experience.

Standing the mast up straighter reduces weather helm by moving the sails’ centre of effort forward relative to the centre of lateral resistance of your keel.

Completely removing weather helm, however, will make the boat feel unresponsive and will be detrimental to pointing.

Changing the amount of rake may be as simple as adjusting the forestay and the backstay, but it might involve moving the mast step on some boats.

The aim of rake adjustment is to have enough rake to provide some weather helm upwind in light air but not so much that in the heavier winds – when weather helm increases – it becomes too pronounced.

When was the last time you adjusted your rigging? Credit: Colin Work

You want to aim for around 3-5° of weather helm.

It pays to adjust rake for the conditions.

Adding rake when the wind is at the top end helps the mainsail and jib to depower by allowing the air to more easily exit the top of the sail’s leech – often referred to in the racing world as the ‘fourth corner’.

This, combined with the opening of the leech by backstay and Cunningham, works in tandem to reduce power.

It’s a slightly tricky concept to get your head around, as moving the rake aft should, in theory, increase weather helm, but the benefits through depowering the mainsail are such that the net gain (reducing heel and so leeward drift and the boat’s want to round up around the keel) counters this.

This is a key reason adding backstay tension is important in heavier winds – it rakes the mast, depowers the mainsail and tightens the luff of the headsail.

If your rake is easily adjusted and does not involve changing the mast step it might be worth adjusting it based on conditions, but for most cruisers, once you have found the correct rake setting, it is easier to just leave it be.

Mast pre-bend

Pre-bend is achieved by a combination of compression (by increasing rig tension) and adding mast blocks at the mast collar on a keel-stepped mast, or by tensioning a baby stay.

A modern fractional rig on a lighter boat will typically use more pre-bend, perhaps a few inches, than a masthead rig with large overlapping headsail, where pre-bend will be very slight, maybe an inch.

Pre-bend is the amount of bend you have in the mast, usually created by the rig tension – which should match the luff-curve of the main sail. Credit: Maxine Heath

This can easily be measured by attaching the main halyard to the base of the mast, tensioning it and then looking at the bend characteristic.

If you have a tired mainsail that is starting to get too deep, consider adding a little more pre-bend.

It is worth noting that doing this with a tired mainsail will exacerbate the other problem of age – the draft creeping aft – but it is a good fix, on balance.

Boat rig checks: Masthead rig tuning

Shroud tension.

A masthead rig is the least complex option in terms of setup, though this simplicity does offer limited options in terms of adjustment.

With 15° of heel, check the leeward shrouds are still taut and use the baby stay to add bend if needed. Credit: Graham Snook

Firstly, you want to ensure your mast is upright, side-to-side.

A tape measure from the masthead, or simply use a halyard, taken to each shroud base in turn, will quickly show any discrepancy.

Adjust the bottle screws until the mast is straight.

You will want to ensure that the upper shrouds are firm to the touch.

If they feel loose, tighten them equally on each side to keep the mast straight.

A tension gauge is a really good investment to give you a decent idea of that sort of rig tension you are carrying.

Boat, and mast-specific tension levels can be obtained from your mast or boat manufacturer. These will vary depending on rig size.

The common advice is to wind shrouds up to hand tight then add a little more tension with a spanner.

Be careful not to over tighten as this could strip the turnbuckles.

It also pays to err on the side of caution initially as you can always tighten the rig when sailing upwind.

Having your rigging too loose will cause it to pant and jump around in waves, leading to fatigue.

Typically you can go up to, but never beyond, 20% of your rigging wire’s breaking load.

It’s important to tighten all intermediates and lowers evenly on each side, sighting frequently up the aft side of the mast to make sure it remains straight.

This is the initial setting, with mast centered and straight, and all shrouds firm.

When you tension the forestay and backstay, the mast should remain straight side-to-side.

Mast alignment under load

Once you have this basic setting locked in, when you next go sailing in moderate breeze, head upwind and take the slack out of the upper shroud on the leeward side (and count your turns so you can replicate the amount on the other tack).

Tack, and then tighten the other upper the same amount.

Keeping your work to the leeward side shroud ensures you don’t strip the turnbuckle by reducing the rigging tension.

A rig tension gauge will ensure you don’t over tighten your rigging. Credit: Graham Snook

Once the leeward uppers are tight, sight up the mast on each tack to check for side bend.

If the middle sags to leeward, tighten the lowers.

If the top appears to fall off to leeward, it could be the middle popping to windward; either loosen the lowers or tighten the uppers.

Over-tight lowers and loose uppers allow the masthead to fall off.

Proper tension will leave the leeward upper shrouds taut with 15º of heel.

The uppers should be tighter than the lowers; they have more load and stretch more due to being longer.

Check the rig periodically, particularly after sailing in heavy winds.

Look for stretch in the uppers and for over-tight lowers, which can overload upper spreaders.

A masthead rig, showing a small amount of pre-bend. Credit: Colin Work

Backstay tension will bend the mast through compression as well as tightening the forestay.

With a stiff mast, backstay tension translates into forestay tension, controlling how much the forestay, and the headsail luff, sag to leeward.

If you do have a baby stay, this can be utilised to add bend. The backstay also contributes to the bend, particularly once it has been initiated by a baby stay.

Fractional rig tuning

The procedures for tuning a fractional rig differ slightly from those for a masthead rig.

There are many varied configurations of fractional rigs, which makes it difficult to generalise.

The most common type of fractional rig on modern cruising boats is with spreaders swept aft.

Backstay tension will help to reduce forestay sag, which will hamper pointing

Fractional rigs with straight spreaders sit somewhere between masthead and fractional rigs in terms of setup and flexibility.

Swept back spreaders mean that shroud adjustments made will affect lean, side bend, pre-bend, sag, and mast bend.

For the most part, spreader sweep will be fixed on most boats, and their angle (if adjustable) is a level of complexity most of us will not need to worry about.

The first thing you will need to do is to ensure that the mast is centered and stands vertically.

If you tighten the backstay on a masthead rig, but still have forestay sag, you may need to tighten the lowers. Credit: Graham Snook

This can be done by taking the main halyard and measuring down to the same point on either side of the boat to check it is centred.

Use a spirit level to check it is even vertically.

Then, with lowers loose, pull the backstay fully on.

Tighten the upper shrouds, keeping the rig centered and mast straight side-to-side.

If the mast tends to bend sideways, ease the backstay slightly.

Release the backstay. The mast will still have some bend.

Tighten the lowers to remove bend as necessary to match your mainsail.

You can get a good indication of luff curve by laying your sail on a flat floor, running a straight edge (or piece of string) from head to tack of the mainsail and measuring the difference along its length.

This does actually measure a bit of luff round (the shape cut into the sail by sticking), but it’s close enough.

The rig is now tuned for maximum headstay tension. Additional backstay tension will bend the mast and add some headstay tension.

To get the mast to bend more easily, ease off the lowers. To make backstay tension affect the headstay tension as much as possible, tighten the lowers.

Upwind in a breeze the top of the mast will fall off to leeward, and the middle will bow out to weather.

This side bend de-powers the rig to a greater degree than fore and aft bend.

Easing the lowers may reduce side bend, but it will allow more headstay sag and fore and aft mast bend.

In a perfect world, we would adjust shrouds each time we go sailing to achieve proper mast bend and headstay sag characteristics for varied conditions.

But realistically, that is not going to be something anyone will want or be able to do.

As such, aim for a setup which errs towards a slightly less bent, and so more powered-up mast and rig setup on the assumption that when cruising we are more inclined to reef earlier.

Using your boat rig

How your rig helps upwind.

In light winds:

Pointing is not important, moving is. As such the main thing you are looking for in light conditions is to increase depth in the sail.

Easing backstay will straighten the mast and allow the mainsail to be a little deeper.

As you apply more backstay tension, also pull on the cunningham to stop heel-inducing draught moving too far aft. Credit: Colin Work

It will also increase forestay sag and allow the headsail to power up.

Both of these will mean you point less close to the wind, but you will only lose a degree or so and the increase in speed will more than make up for it.

Easing halyards and outhaul will allow for plenty of twist and depth in the sails by moving the genoa car forward and easing the sheet, then bring the boom to windward of the centreline and ease the mainsheet and vang, or leave it on the centreline and haul on the topping lift if you have one.

In medium breezes:

Tighten halyards and outhaul and flatten the sails. Also, with the main, use backstay and mainsheet tension.

‘Bending the mast is what you are after as you move into mid-range wind condition,’ explains Bill Gladstone from North Sails.

Ease backstay tension for fuller sails off the wind. Credit: Graham Snook

‘As you bend the mast, three things happen. First the sail gets flatter as the middle of the mast goes forward. The second is you increase twist and the third is that the draught moves aft. As you bend the mast to keep the same twist profile you might need to adjust the mainsheet and then pull on more halyard or downhaul.

‘With the genoa, move the car back a couple of notches and add some sheet tension but don’t let the leech touch the spreaders. If the wind builds, tighten everything further until you’re up to maximum luff tension, outhaul and backstay. Make sure the leech isn’t hooked, as that will also sag the forestay.’

In heavy winds:

You’ll need to reef . In theory increasing mast rake will help to decrease weather helm and keep the boat better on its feet.

As the boat rig moves aft, so the balance point moves aft, but the mainsail will be driving less hard, due to twist so you are reducing the effect of a full headsail overpowering a depowered mainsail.

Pulling on the backstay will bend the mast and flatten the sail. Credit: Lester McCarthy

That is the theory, but without easy access to adjusting mast rake, reefing is the easier option.

As pointing can be dependent on the mainsail maintaining proper leech tension, it is easier to keep the boat pointing well with a reefed main that can be sheeted than with a main that does not have enough leech tension.

When sailing downwind sailing, essentially we want the mainsail to be as full as possible.

Removing backstay tension is a great way to do this, straightening the mast and making the sail deeper.

Taking tension out of your halyards will help here too.

A straighter mast will give a fuller sail with the draught further forward. Credit: Lester McCarthy

Easing the backstay downwind will also have the added bonus of keeping the rig further forward and so reduce headsail tension and increase the depth of your genoa (or spinnaker of you are flying one).

However, if you are using a cruising chute (and so not sailing dead downwind) it might be worth keeping a fair amount of backstay tension on and therefore increasing the luff tension of the chute, helping it to fly a bit more effectively.

Boat rig checks: Troubleshooting

Unequal tacks.

The most easily noticeable issue that can come about from your rig setup being incorrect is the boat performing differently from tack to tack, which can cause much head-scratching and exasperation.

The large numbers of variables, such as wind strength, direction and tide can make it tricky to spot.

Keep an eye on boat speed and wind angle. Credit: Lester McCarthy

Typically the issue will present in a number of different ways.

It might be that you cannot make the same angle on one tack as you can on the other, or that speed through the water is different on each tack (remember to check if your paddle wheel is offset).

This intuition that you have a ‘bad tack’ is developed over time and with experience.

Chainplates

You might imagine a yacht built by a professional yard with modern construction techniques would mean everything lines up, therefore ruling out chainplate position as a possible cause, but it’s worth checking.

You could be surprised how much difference there can be in position from side-to-side.

Measure from the bow and the centreline to check chainplate position isn’t an issue. Credit: Lester McCarthy

A discrepancy doesn’t mean your boat is a dud, or in need of repair, but it means you can trim your sails differently to account for your boat’s idiosyncrasies.

To check, tie a tape measure or anything else that will not stretch to the forestay, then run it aft to each shroud base. Are they the same distance from the forestay?

Next, measure the distance between the two shrouds and half it to find the centerline, then run a tape measure perpendicularly from the centreline to each shroud base.

The distances should be the same.

If not, and you have a keel-stepped mast, you can centre it with chocks next time it’s re-stepped.

Are you genoa tracks symmetrical?

When you roll away some genoa, you need to move your genoa cars forward to keep the leech under control.

You might note that the leeward car is now a certain number of holes from the forward end of the track and move the windward one to match, but if the tracks aren’t positioned symmetrically, or you have a different type of track to windward, that won’t be the case.

Check your genoa car reference points by measuring from the genoa tack or bow. Credit: Lester McCarthy

Measure from the forestay to the forward end of each genoa track.

Do both sides match?

Weather helm

A bit of weather helm helps the boat point and tells you when it’s in the groove.

Too much and the rudder will be slowing you down.

Setting the correct amount of sail can reduce weather helm.

If weather helm is an issue, look up at your leech tension. Credit: Graham Snook

If it persists, look at your boat rig.

The centre of effort from the sails should be aft of the centre of lateral resistance.

The further aft, the more weather helm.

At a basic level, moving the mast forward, by moving the mast step forwards, or by reducing rake by easing the backstay and tightening the forestay, will bring the two points closer.

However, pulling on backstay tension will flatten the main and open the leach, spilling power and moving the centre of effort forwards.

Inducing mast bend, with shroud or baby stay tension, will also depower the main.

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Having the mast further forward or will reduce weather helm, but doing so by easing the backstay has the knock on effect of powering up the mainsail such that it will increase weather helm.

To reduce this, stand the mast upright via your shorts or mast step, but increase mast bend via the backstay to reduce the mainsail’s power.

Check you mast is straight

By sighting up the mast as in the previous set up information we covered, you can check that your mast is straight.

Check that it is vertical too and that the pre-bend settings have not changed.

The main halyard, pulled to each chainplate, will give a good indication of whether the mast is upright. Credit: Lester McCarthy

Newly fitted rigging or re-fitted rigging does take some time to bed in and can do so at different rates.

If you stepped your mast at the start of the season, it could have changed over time, now giving you an asymmetric setup.

Replacing standing rigging

Some insurance policies insist on new rigging every 10 years, while others are satisfied with a professional rig inspection.

If you are replacing your rigging, you face the choice of whether to go for the cheapest option or to upgrade to something that will give you better performance.

The key characteristic is the amount the rigging will stretch, and sagging rigging leads to masts that flex more than they should, forestays that bag to leeward, and less control over the mainsail shape.

Wire is still the primary option for most of us, but there are three different kinds you can opt for:

• 7×19, or wire rope, is the most old- fashioned, and is suitable for running rigging where it needs to be highly flexible, but is not often used in standing rigging nowadays.
• 1×19, a single bundle of 19 thicker wires, is the standard wire for most rigging uses.
• Compact dyform wire is pressure-treated. It weighs a little more for its size but offers reduced stretch, increased breaking loads and with it significantly more cost.

Life expectancy for all three is very good with regular inspection, 7-20 years or 15-25k nautical miles, depending on use and region.

‘Wire does have its advantages,’ says Gordon Bonnay of Performance Rigging.

7×19 wire is the most flexible, but only used for running rigging now

‘The biggest thing that wire has going for it is that it will advertise its failure. Generally a strand will pop out, and as soon as you see it you know the wire is compromised.’

Rod rigging has also been around a long time now. It has low stretch characteristics, a very long lifespan, and a minimum breaking strength beyond that of its wire counterpart.

1×19 wire is standard on many cruising boats

‘Principally the thing that goes wrong with rod rigging is only really if there is a fault in the hydraulically attached fitting forcing the rod into a different shape, or if it is pulled out of line repeatedly,’ explains Bonnay.

Rod rigging has extremely long life expectancy attributed to design (mono strand) and the composition of the alloy making it very corrosion resistant.

Compact dyform wire is stronger, lighter and has less stretch

However, it does require a more in-depth service protocol during recommended intervals, which includes unstepping the mast to inspect and re-head the rod as needed.

Therefore, rod clearly gives better performance, but its high cost and servicing requirements isn’t affordable for most cruisers.

Essential rigging checks

Check and tape split pins.

They may seem insignificant but, properly fitted split pins can save your mast.

Without them, bottlescrews and clevis pins work loose and you’ll lose the lot.

Use the biggest split pin that will fit the hole, pack any space with stainless steel washers, insert the pin, spread both its legs into an anchor shape and secure with tape or a blob of silicone to prevent snagging on clothing, sails or skin.

Check shroud terminals

Securing mooring lines to shroud bases is never a good idea because the loading can deform rigging toggles and weaken bottlescrews, creating uneven loading and increasing the chances of failure through fatigue.

If there isn’t a cleat handy, use genoa cars, winches or padeyes instead.

Hairline fractures in terminals can cause rig failure. Time for new rigging. Credit Graham Snook

For standing rigging, check the top of the swage and look for any broken strands.

If you find some, replace that shroud and its opposite.

Check your furler and line

Make sure the lead onto the drum is fair and that there are no chafe points.

If it’s looking tired, replace it.

Remember, if the furling line breaks on a windy day, you’ll have far too much sail up for the conditions, and the loads will be critical.

The furling line and drum is a crucial part of the rig to be checked

Also, check the grub screws on the collar where the drum meets the luff tube.

The forestay shakes tremendously during tacks and those grub screws can easily come loose.

Check mainsail track sliders, cars or bolt rope

Just as a snapped furling line will leave you with far too much sail up, losing a few mainsail track sliders or tearing out your main’s bolt rope can leave the sail bulging to leeward.

In a matter of seconds the wind can strip out the others, leaving you with a spinnaker where your mainsail used to be.

Check the fastenings to both mast and sail are secure, and consider repairing if you’re in any doubt.

Send a rigger up the mast

There is no tension in the stays of an unstepped mast, and that means broken strands can creep back into the swage, giving the appearance that nothing’s wrong.

It’s worth taking a look at masthead rigging attachments when they are under load. Credit: Graham Snook

Once a season, send a rigger aloft.

They can check for broken strands at the top of shrouds, cracks in terminals, or in the mast around terminal fittings, and make sure your shackles are properly seized and your sheaves are in good order.

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Sailboat Rigging: A Guide to Achieve Smooth Sailing Bliss

Understanding sailboat rigging.

Sailboat rigging is the process of setting up the sails, ropes, and associated components of a sailboat to enable it to harness the power of the wind and navigate the waters efficiently. It is a crucial aspect of sailing that directly impacts the performance, safety, and overall experience on the water.

Proper sailboat rigging involves a combination of knowledge, skill, and attention to detail. Each component plays a specific role and must be correctly installed, adjusted, and maintained to ensure optimal performance. Understanding the fundamentals of sailboat rigging is essential for both seasoned sailors and beginners alike.

The Importance of Proper Sailboat Rigging

Proper sailboat rigging is essential for several reasons. Firstly, it directly affects the performance of your sailboat. Well-rigged sails and ropes allow you to harness the wind effectively, resulting in better speed, maneuverability, and control. On the other hand, poorly rigged sails can lead to reduced performance and frustrating sailing experiences.

Secondly, sailboat rigging is crucial for safety. A well-rigged sailboat ensures that the mast, rigging components, and sails are secure and can withstand the forces of wind and waves. It minimizes the risk of equipment failure, such as broken masts or snapped rigging, which can lead to accidents or stranded situations on the water.

Lastly, proper sailboat rigging enhances the overall enjoyment of sailing. When your rigging is set up correctly, you can focus on the beauty of the sea, the thrill of the wind, and the joy of gliding through the water. It allows you to fully immerse yourself in the experience and achieve a state of sailing bliss.

Types of Sailboat Rigging Systems

Sailboat rigging systems can vary depending on the type of sailboat and its intended use. The two main types of rigging systems are the masthead rig and the fractional rig.

The masthead rig is a traditional rigging configuration where the mast extends to the top of the sailboat, and the forestay is attached near the masthead. This rigging system is commonly found on cruising sailboats and provides excellent downwind performance and stability.

On the other hand, the fractional rig is a more modern design where the forestay is attached at a point below the masthead, typically around two-thirds of the way up the mast. This configuration is often used in racing sailboats as it allows for better upwind performance and increased maneuverability.

Understanding the different rigging systems is essential as it influences the setup and tuning of the sailboat rigging. Each system requires specific adjustments and considerations to achieve optimal performance.

Essential Components of Sailboat Rigging

Sailboat rigging consists of several essential components that work together to support the mast, control the shape of the sails, and enable efficient sail handling. These components include the mast, shrouds, stays, and halyards.

The mast is the vertical structure that supports the sails and rigging. It is typically made of aluminum or carbon fiber and must be strong, lightweight, and properly secured to the sailboat. The mast is connected to the hull through a step at the base, which distributes the loads from the rigging throughout the boat.

Shrouds and stays are the primary supporting elements that hold the mast in place and provide lateral and fore-aft stability. Shrouds are attached to the mast at various points and extend out to the sides of the sailboat, while stays run from the mast to the bow or stern of the boat. These components are typically made of stainless steel wire or synthetic fibers and must be tensioned correctly to maintain the integrity of the rig.

Halyards are ropes or wires used to raise and lower the sails. They run from the masthead to the sail and allow for the adjustment of sail shape and size. Proper halyard tension is crucial for controlling the shape of the sails and optimizing their performance in different wind conditions.

Each of these components plays a vital role in sailboat rigging, and understanding their functions and proper installation is key to achieving smooth sailing.

Inspecting and Maintaining Sailboat Rigging

Regular inspection and maintenance of sailboat rigging are essential to ensure its longevity, reliability, and safety. Before setting sail, it is crucial to conduct a thorough visual inspection of all rigging components.

Start by checking the mast for any signs of damage, such as cracks, corrosion, or loose fittings. Inspect the shrouds and stays for any broken strands, kinks, or signs of wear. Pay close attention to the connections between the rigging components and the mast, ensuring they are secure and free from any potential issues.

Next, inspect the halyards for fraying, excessive wear, or damage. Check the blocks, cleats, and winches associated with the halyards to ensure they are functioning properly and are appropriately lubricated.

Additionally, check the tension of the rigging by gently pushing on the shrouds and stays. They should have a slight amount of tension, but not be overly loose or overly tight. If any adjustments are needed, refer to the sailboat’s rigging guide or consult with a professional rigger.

Regular maintenance tasks for sailboat rigging include cleaning, lubricating, and replacing worn-out components. Cleaning the rigging with fresh water and mild soap helps remove salt and dirt buildup, preventing corrosion and extending the lifespan of the rigging. Lubricating moving parts, such as blocks and turnbuckles, with appropriate marine-grade lubricants helps ensure smooth operation and prevents rust.

It is important to note that if any significant damage or wear is detected during inspection, it is best to consult with a professional rigger for further assessment and repair.

Common Sailboat Rigging Problems and How to Troubleshoot Them

Despite careful inspection and maintenance, sailboat rigging problems can still occur. Understanding common issues and their troubleshooting techniques is essential for every sailor.

One common problem is rigging stretch, which can lead to reduced performance and compromised safety. Rigging stretch occurs when the shrouds and stays elongate over time, causing the mast to lose its proper shape and tension. To address this issue, adjust the rigging tension using the turnbuckles or tensioning devices provided. Refer to the sailboat’s rigging guide for specific instructions on proper tensioning.

Another common problem is rigging fatigue, especially in older sailboats or those exposed to harsh conditions. Rigging fatigue is characterized by broken strands, kinks, or signs of wear. If fatigue is detected, it is crucial to replace the affected rigging components promptly to avoid potential equipment failure. Consult with a professional rigger to ensure proper replacement and rigging setup.

Improper sail trim is another issue that can affect the performance of your sailboat. When the sails are not trimmed correctly, they can become overpowered or lose their shape, resulting in reduced speed and control. Experiment with different sail trim settings, such as halyard tension, sheet tension, and traveler position, to achieve the optimal sail shape for different wind conditions. Practice and experience will help you develop a keen eye for proper sail trim.

Upgrading and Optimizing Sailboat Rigging

Upgrading and optimizing your sailboat rigging can significantly improve performance, safety, and overall sailing experience. There are several areas where upgrades can be considered, depending on your sailboat’s design and intended use.

One common upgrade is replacing wire rigging with synthetic rigging, such as Dyneema or Spectra. Synthetic rigging offers several advantages, including reduced weight, increased strength, and lower maintenance requirements. However, it is crucial to consult with a professional rigger to ensure proper installation and tuning of synthetic rigging.

Another upgrade option is replacing older blocks and pulleys with modern, low-friction alternatives. High-quality blocks with ball bearings or roller bearings can significantly reduce friction and make sail handling smoother and more efficient. Upgrading winches and cleats to larger or more powerful models can also enhance control and ease of use.

Additionally, optimizing your sailboat rigging for specific sailing conditions can improve performance. This may involve adjusting the rig tension, changing the position of the mast rake, or experimenting with different sail combinations. Consulting with experienced sailors or professional riggers can provide valuable insights and recommendations for optimizing your rigging setup.

Hiring a Professional Rigger for Sailboat Rigging

While basic sailboat rigging tasks can be performed by experienced sailors, complex rigging projects or major upgrades are best left to professional riggers. Hiring a professional rigger ensures that the rigging is installed, adjusted, and maintained correctly, minimizing the risk of equipment failure and maximizing the performance of your sailboat.

Professional riggers have the knowledge, expertise, and specialized tools to handle various rigging projects, from simple replacements to complete rig overhauls. They can assess the condition of your current rigging, recommend necessary upgrades or repairs, and provide valuable advice on rig tuning and optimization.

When hiring a professional rigger, it is essential to do thorough research and choose a reputable and experienced individual or company. Seek recommendations from fellow sailors, check online reviews, and inquire about their certifications and qualifications. A reliable professional rigger will work closely with you to understand your sailboat’s specific requirements and ensure that the rigging is tailored to your needs.

Safety Considerations for Sailboat Rigging

Safety should always be a top priority when it comes to sailboat rigging. Here are some important safety considerations to keep in mind:

• Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment, such as a life jacket and harness, when working on the sailboat rigging, especially at heights or in challenging conditions.
• Use proper lifting techniques and equipment when handling heavy rigging components to prevent injuries.
• Be mindful of your surroundings and the potential hazards associated with sailboat rigging, such as moving parts, sharp edges, or overhead obstructions.
• Regularly inspect and maintain safety equipment, such as lifelines and jacklines, to ensure they are in good condition and properly secured.
• Follow manufacturer guidelines and recommended practices for rigging installation, adjustment, and maintenance.
• Stay updated on current safety standards and regulations related to sailboat rigging.

By prioritizing safety and adhering to these considerations, you can enjoy smooth sailing adventures with peace of mind.

Conclusion: Enjoying Smooth Sailing with Well-Maintained Rigging

Mastering the art of sailboat rigging opens up a world of endless possibilities and pure sailing bliss. By understanding the different types of rigging systems, essential components, and proper maintenance techniques, you can achieve optimal performance, safety, and enjoyment on the water.

Regular inspection, maintenance, and troubleshooting of sailboat rigging are essential to ensure its longevity and reliability. Upgrading and optimizing your rigging can further enhance your sailing experience and unlock new levels of performance.

While basic rigging tasks can be performed by sailors, complex projects or major upgrades are best left to professional riggers. Hiring a reputable and experienced rigger ensures that your rigging is expertly installed, adjusted, and maintained.

Remember to prioritize safety at all times and follow recommended practices to minimize risks associated with sailboat rigging.

So, set sail, embrace the wind, and experience the bliss of smooth sailing with well-maintained sailboat rigging. May your adventures on the water be filled with joy, excitement, and the sheer beauty of the sea.

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Rig tension gauges: readings and equivalence charts

For most racers, repeatable tuning of the sailboat's standing rigging is a must when trying to reach the right tune that makes you the fastest crew in the fleet.

Loos rig gauges allow quick and accurate measurement of shrouds and stays to achieve the perfect rig tune. With the following guide, you will be able to read both the Standard gauges (Model A and B) for 2.5 mm to 7 mm wire and PRO Rig Tension gauges (Model PT-1, Model PT-1M, Model PT-2, Model PT-2M, Model PT-3 and Model PT-3M) for 2.5 mm to 10 mm, and be one step closer to having the fastest boat of the regatta.

Which diameters are available for each Tension Gauge type?

The following table shows the Loos gauges available models and the compatibility with different wire diameters.

How to measure with Standard series?

Firstly, hook the gauge on the cable, then pull the lanyard until the pointer is positioned at the black calibration mark (green arrow). Next, read the scale at the exact point where the middle of the cable touches the scale (black arrow). For best accuracy, the gauge should be held so that the scale barely touches the cable, thus eliminating friction. Please consider that excessive pull on the lanyard (pulling the pointer beyond the calibration mark) may permanently bend the spring and damage the gauge.

How to measure with the PRO series?

Hold the gauge with one hand and place the cable between the two nylon spools. With the other hand, pull the lanyard and extend the spring until the hook on the nylon slider can be hooked on the cable. Release the lanyard and read the needle position on the scale. Refer to the calibration table to obtain the correct tension in the cable. The gauge can be left on the wire for "hands-free" cable adjusting.

To confirm you're getting accurate readings, ensure that the slider moves freely in the frame slot and does not bind. Also, lubricate the slider slot frequently with silicone lubricant.

Tip: wiggle the gauge around a little and let the slider settle to the middle position.

How to read equivalence charts?

It is essential to know that these gauges are intended to be used on 302 / 304 1X19 SS cables in appropriate sizes. If used on other cable types, sizes and construction, your readings would be consistent but pound tension values would differ from those listed on the label.

To understand how to read the equivalence tables, let's take a Hobie 33 and measure the upper shrouds. The wires are 3/16", and we used the Loos tension gauges to measure it in this example. We got 21 on our first reading, and we want to achieve at least 26% of the breaking strength of the wire.

To get the tension needed for this example, we should firstly verify at what % the shroud currently is. We then go to the equivalence table, where we first look at the Scale numbers on the left part. We got a 21 for the previous reading, so we go to the right until we cross the column of the 3/16" wire (second column).

We find that there are 3 numbers in the cell, one in black (lbs) on another one in red (% from breaking strength). So to know how many pounds of tension we got, we look at the black number, which marks 640 lbs. To know what percentage we are from the breaking strength point, we look at the red number, which indicates it is 14%.

Now we know our shroud is too loose. So then, we adjust the turnbuckles until we reach the 26% break strength needed, which equals a 28 on the scale from the tension gauge.

You can apply this logic to any of the tension gauges from Loos. Please take into consideration that the tension needed for each wire will vary. There is no simple solution since the optimum rigging tension will be a function of the boat design, the rig (masthead or fractional, one or more spreaders, etc.), and even the cut of the sails.

For the convenience of sailors who wish to upgrade from our Model A or B gauges to the professional model (PT-1, PT-2, or PT-3) gauges, L-36 develop a conversion chart so that the same recommended tension can be obtained with the PT -1, PT -2 or PT -3 gauges as with the Model A or B gauges.

If you have any questions regarding standing rigging and fine-tuning for your boat, don't hesitate to Contact Us . Our sailing experts will be happy to help you.

Tension Gauge Model B for 3/16" to 9/32" wire

Tension Gauge Model B for 5 to 7 mm wire

Tension Gauge PRO PT1 for 3/32" to 5/32" wire

Tension Gauge PRO PT1M for 2.5 to 4 mm wire

Tension Gauge PRO PT2 for 3/16" to 1/4" wire

Tension Gauge PRO PT2M for 5 to 7 mm wire

Tension Gauge PRO PT3 for 9/32" to 3/8" wire

Tension Gauge PRO PT3M for 7 to 10 mm wire

Rig Sense Tension Gauge for 2-5 mm (3/32-13/64") Wire

Spi-rgs-0205.

Rig Sense Tension Gauge for 5-8 mm (3/16-5/16") Wire

Spi-rgs-0508.

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Cableware® Division / How To’s / How to use Tension Gauges / How to use PT Series Tension Gauges

Military Critical Technical Data Agreement

Helpful Information: Rigger’s Guide to proper swaging techniques

How to use PT Series Tension Gauges

How to measure.

Hold the  gauge  with the left hand and place the cable between the two nylon spools as shown in Figure 1. With the right hand pull the lanyard and extend the spring until the hook on the nylon slider can be hooked on the cable as shown in Figure 2.

Release the lanyard. Read the needle position on the scale. Refer to the calibration table obtain correct tension in the cable. The  gauge can be left on the wire for “hands free” adjusting of the cable.

To assure accurate readings make sure that the slider moves freely in the frame slot and does not bind. Also, lubricate the slider slot frequently with silicone lubricant.

Note:  An extra 1/4″ inch hole is provided in the frame of the instrument for an attachment of a short lanyard and snap hook (not furnished) for securing the  gauge  to the cable. This will prevent loss of the instrument if it becomes inadvertently detached.

HOW MUCH TENSION?

Specific tension requirements for your application must be obtained from the boat, mast, or sail manufacturer or the manufacturer of the product on which the cable is used..

Table 1 recommends an initial tension setting, but there is no simple solution since the optimum rigging tension will be a function of the boat design, the rig (masthead or fractional, one or more spreaders, etc.), and even the cut of the sails. Many skippers use insufficient tension because of a fear of “breaking something.” It should be noted that on America’s Cup contenders, where electronic state of the art tension instrumentation is available, the standing rigging is set as tight as is structurally feasible.

ONE DESIGN CLASS RACING SAILBOATS

Most sail makers who produce sails for the one design classes provide each purchaser with specific set of readings on the  Loos  Model A or Model B tension  gauges  for use when setting up the standing rigging. This assures that the sails will have the correct shape when the rig is under load.

For the convenience of sailors who wish to upgrade from our Model A or B  gauges  to the professional model (PT-1, PT-2, or PT-3)  gauges  we include below a conversion chart so that the same recommended tension can be obtained with the PT-1, PT-2 or PT-3  gauges  as with the Model A or B  gauges .

When no specific requirements are provided by the sail maker, the following general comments will provide a basis for a rational procedure for tuning the rig.

FORESTAY TENSION

Masthead rig.

On the masthead rig it’s almost always advantageous to set the  forestay  tension as high as possible within the limits of structural strength. Generally, it’s possible to use 15% of the breaking strength of the cable. Thus, a  forestay  tension of 1,000 lbs. is a reasonable place to start with a 7/32″ diam ., 302/304  1×19  stainless steel cable.  Backstay  tension would, of course, have to be adjusted to maintain a straight mast with the desired  forestay  tension. Since the  backstay  makes a greater angle to the mast, the  backstay  tension will be lower than the  forestay  tension.

NOTE ! ROLLER FURLING CAN ONLY BE SET BY BACK STAY TENSION.

Fractional rig.

In a fractional rig the  forestay  does not go all the way to the masthead and  forestay  tension cannot be directly balanced by tension in the  backstay . Therefore, some mast bend is generally accepted and the mainsail is cut to fit the bend. A  forestay  tension of at least 15% of the cable strength is desirable. However, if this results in excessive mast bend it will be necessary to back off a bit. On some fractional rigs, diamond shrouds are used to reduce mast bend.

UPPER AND LOWER SHROUD TENSION

There is a simple criterion for shroud tension. The initial rigging tension should be high enough that the leeward shrouds do not go slack when sailing close-hauled in a reasonably brisk breeze. The proper value for your boat can be found by a few trial runs under sail. Once the correct tension is known, the  gauge  can be used to maintain the value.

For many boat designs a shroud tension of 10% to 12% of the breaking strength of the cable is adequate. Thus, for 7/32″, 302/ 304  1×19  stainless steel cable , the upper and lower shrouds would be set to 600 to 700 lbs. tension. On some rigs it may be desirable to carry more tension in the uppers than in the lowers.

For most fractional rigs the correct shroud tension is the same as that for a masthead rig, i. e., a tension setting that will keep the leeward shrouds from going slack. However there is one exception. On certain fractional rigs , the upper and lower shrouds lead to chain plates that are aft of the mast. The spreader is swept back. For such a rig most of the  forestay  tension is balanced by the upper shrouds. A shroud tension of approximately 20% of the cable strength may be required to achieve the desired  forestay  tension. Never exceed 25% of the cable breaking strength. (Refer to the breaking strength chart Table 1.)

NOTE ! THE INTENDED USE OF THIS GAUGE IS TO BE USED ON 302 / 304 1x19 S.S. CABLE IN APPROPRIATE SIZES. IF USED ON OTHER CABLE TYPES, SIZES, AND CONSTRUCTION YOUR READINGS WOULD BE CONSISTENT (REPEATABLE) BUT POUND TENSION VALUES WOULD DIFFER FROM THOSE LISTED ON THE LABEL. GAUGE MAY NOT READ "O" WHEN AT REST, AS THEY ARE CALIBRATED AT MIDRANGE OF TENSION.

Note if flat spots appear on nylon spools after extended use, rotate nylon spools 45°..

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Tension of Standing Rigging

• Add to quote
• Two forward stays
• Three standing/main stays
• Two strongbacks (high tension running back stays)
• One forward stay (rigged to the foremast)
• Four standing/main stays (one forward one aft and one pair of two center of the mast)
• One fully adjustable running back stay (only tightened/loosened by hand using some compound pulleys and a line clip - whatever those are called)

Sure, if you go downwind in five knots of wind. Otherwise, the tension of the stays is usually determined by a number of factors, primary among them the type of mast you have, the diameter of the stays and shrouds, the "rake" of the mast, and the type of sailing you do. Most stays are too slack, i.e. the rig is not optimally tuned. This can be seen on each tack, where the lee shrouds are slack. Too much slack leads to too much mast movement, work hardening, wear and crappy sail performance: The stays are the "ligaments" of the rig, with the mast, hull and chainplates forming the "skeleton" which transfers the power of the wind in the sails to move the boat. Slack stays=poor transfer, wear and eventually failure. Consider borrowing or buying a Loos or other type of tension gauge, and determine the usual rig tensioning for your boat. Check all chainplates FIRST, because you want to ensure that the reason the stays are loose in the first place is because the chainplates are half pulled apart. Ask for help. It's not an amateur job, but it's one easily learned and the results may surprise you. Rigging Tension: Information from Answers.com  

Valiente said: Sure, if you go downwind in five knots of wind. Otherwise, the tension of the stays is usually determined by a number of factors, primary among them the type of mast you have, the diameter of the stays and shrouds, the "rake" of the mast, and the type of sailing you do. Most stays are too slack, i.e. the rig is not optimally tuned. This can be seen on each tack, where the lee shrouds are slack. Too much slack leads to too much mast movement, work hardening, wear and crappy sail performance: The stays are the "ligaments" of the rig, with the mast, hull and chainplates forming the "skeleton" which transfers the power of the wind in the sails to move the boat. Slack stays=poor transfer, wear and eventually failure. Click to expand...

Consider borrowing or buying a Loos or other type of tension gauge, and determine the usual rig tensioning for your boat. Check all chainplates FIRST, because you want to ensure that the reason the stays are loose in the first place is because the chainplates are half pulled apart. Click to expand...

Yep, that's correct. Inspect the chainplates for wear, oval boltholes and cracked knees first, prior to spinning the turnbuckle to half a ton of tension.  

Heh, shows what I know. I'll buy a tension gauge and see if I can't find a local expert to help me out with this. I don't really know anyone suitable, maybe I'll hire someone. Determining the "usual" rig tensioning for my boat is going to be very difficult if not impossible. There aren't very many of these boats out there. Although my tensioning might need to be similar to other models by the same shipyard, but I would sort of doubt that since the other models this size have completely different rigging.  

This is exactly what we did just before we headed out 8+ years ago. We had a Loos guage but what should the tension be. Had a professional rigger come over, a guy who a lot of racers hired for their boats, and had him tune the rig and wrote down the settings. Each year I check the rigging. Had to change out one stay in Trinidad before we left for an Atlantic crossing and again had a pro check it - that was after 5 years. On our third year in the Med we noticed that tension measures were close to what they were but we had a stay that looked liked it needed addition tension but not sure if it would move the stick a but to much so had a pro take a look at it in Sicily and he agreed that it needed a bit of turning and adjusted both sides to keep it correct. Have a pro do it, get a Loos guage and write down the settings then keep it up.  

I have just purchased a rig tensioning tool. I have a Leisure 23SL and am trying to find out what tension to set on my 4mm stainless steel rigging but can't find any reference to tensioning the rigging anywhere. Can anyone help please  

NB that as you increase the rig tension you are shortening the length of the shroud... and this means that you are forcing the hull to deform... ever so slightly. You can determine how much increase by how much you shorten/tighten your rigging once it is not slack (hand tight).. by measuring the length reduction from screwing down the turnbuckles. You tension a shroud to 15% of its yield strength. It is a fundamental requirement for all rig types that the cap shrouds are correctly tensioned. The cap shrouds are adjusted at the dockside, but final tuning is done while sailing. The table beside applies to standing rigging using 1 x 19 stainless wire. This is the most commonly used material for standing rigging. Your aim should be to tension the cap shrouds to 15-20% of the breaking load (the final check on tuning should be left until you are under sail). Then you know that the lateral staying is optimal both for the security of the rig and for sailing performance. There are measuring instruments of greater or lesser reliability for this purpose on the market. Seldén has developed a simple method of obtaining the information you need with material you probably already have. What you need to know is: • All 1 x 19 stainless wire stretches under load, but returns to its original length when the load is removed. 1 mm stretch per 2 m wire is equivalent to 5% of the breaking load, irrespective of the diameter of the wire. • A grp hull, on the other hand, changes its shape permanently when the rig is put under load. This makes it necessary to set up the rigging again after some time. This applies particularly to new yachts. • At the dockside, both cap shrouds always have the same load. If you tension the starboard shroud, the port shroud is affected to precisely the same extent The following materials are required: 1. A 2 metre long measuring rod (a folding rule is recommended) 2. Adhesive tape 3. Vernier callipers • Start with the cap shrouds only hand-tight. The rig is stayed with the lower shrouds and the forestay and backstay. • Tape the upper end of the folding rule to the starboard cap shroud. The lower end of the folding rule must be approximately 5 mm above the upper end of the wire terminal. Measure the distance between terminal and folding rule exactly. This is index 0, let's call it point A. • Tension the starboard cap shroud until the distance is A + 1.5 mm between the terminal and the folding rule. Measure using the vernier callipers. • Leave the folding rule attached to the starboard shroud, and move across to the port side and tension the shroud rigging screw the equivalent amount. • At intervals, check the starboard side to see how much the folding rule has moved from the end terminal. When there is a gap of A + 3 mm, the cap shrouds are tensioned to 15% of the breaking load of the wire (3 x 5% = 15%). If the mast is not straight, adjust the lower shrouds, intermediate shrouds etc. The folding rule method can be used on other stays, such as the backstay and forestay (without jib furling system). It can also be used for Dyform- or rod rigging, but please take the difference in stretch into account compared to 1 x 19 wire. The breaking loads for various dimensions of 1 x 19 strand wire. Wire Ø..................kN ....................lbs Ø 3.......................8....................1,770 Ø 4......................14...................3,090 Ø 5......................22...................4,860 Ø 6......................31...................6,845 Ø 7......................43...................9,490 Ø 8......................56.................12,360 Ø 10.....................88..................19,425 Ø 12....................126.................27,815 Ø 14....................171.................37,750 Ø 16....................216.................47,680  

• Start with the cap shrouds only hand-tight. The rig is stayed with the lower shrouds and the forestay and backstay. Click to expand...

Barquito said: Nice write-up SanderO. One part I don't understand: Wouldn't it make a huge difference, that the port and stbd shrouds may not start at the same length? Do you just center the mast after getting to the proper tension? Click to expand...

Where I am sailing we put the boats on the hard over the winter. Usually without masts, ie unstep in the fall and step in the spring. Should we have pro's to do the rigging? No reason, none at all. It is easy-peasy to set the rig. There are many methods, each to their own, but most work fine. There are many theories as well, the same with those. When I step the mast I make a first setting of the rig. As both rig and boat will have stretched after a week, this is just a preliminary setting. Oh yes, start with the cap shrouds. see to that there is no inversion. As I have a partial rig, no real issues with fore and aft stays. Next step happens 1-2 weeks later. Tighten so it feels right, no science behind this. See to that the mast is stright. This is usually enough. Possible to follow up with a sailing tour an afternoon in about 8-10 m/s wind (16-20 knots). Lee shrouds should just start to slack. It is so nice to claim a very tight rig. Works fine for racing. But no need for normal cruising. Problem with high tension is the high static forces applied on the boat, all the time. /J  

First and I have repeated this ad nauseum, YOU DO NOT TENSION THE SHROUDS TO SOME % OF THEIR BREAKING STRENGTH. It may be true that most shrouds are tensioned to between 10-20% of their MBL, but this is not how you set tension. There are two goals with rig tension, the first is to induce proper prebend. Basically how much the face of the mast bends backwards over the length of the mast, from the hounds to the top. Prebend really changes based on the cut of the sail and the conditions, but most cruisers set it for 15kn of breeze. Ideally you reduce prebend for light air, and increase it for heavy air, but many cruisers just don't bother, or have a hydrolic backstay required to change it on the fly. Anyway, after the amount of prebend is set, then the only tension to apply is just enough to keep the mast in column while sailing upwind. That's it. How much tension it takes just depends on the boat. It doesn't take a professional, and it isn't that complicated. 0) set prebend based on the cut of the sail 1) at the dock get the top of the mast centered by snugging up the top shrouds and working your way down the rig. 2) once the mast is centered make sure all the shrouds are snug, you can put a gague on them if you want, I don't bother. If you do just set them to the same tension. 3) go sailing and beat upwind in 5-10kn of breeze. Ideally in flat water 4) while beating look up the rig, is it still in column? If so you are done, but it won't be. So take in two full turns on the leeward shroud. 5) tack the boat 6) take up two full turns on the leeward shroud (So the shrouds on each side match) 7) look up the mast, is it in column? If not then take in two more turns on the leeward shroud 8) go back to 5 Once the mast remains in column on each side, take a tension reading on the shrouds. Then equalize them. Take a 1/4 turn off of the higher and add 1/4 turn to the lower. Then remeasure and confirm the mast stays in column. If it does then you are done, if not then you may have a slight imperfection either in the mast but placement, the mast hounds, or the chainplates. Track those down if you want, or just retension until the mast stays in column on either tack. Congratulations your boat is now tuned for those conditions! We have a base number from which to work. Next time you go sailing in say 15-20kn of breeze start at #5 and retension the boat for the higher wind speeds. It will take more tension, but how much again depends on the boat. Probably in the range of 1-2 turns. Personally I don't use a loose gague, because I don't care what the tension is, I use a set on machinist calipers to measure the distance between the rigging screws. This means I can always get back to my neutral numbers even if I forget how many turns I have added or taken off. The average shroud tension for moderate breeze is going to be somewhere around 10-15% MBL is mentioned above, but I know boats that sail with tension as high as 35% and as low as 3% of the MBL of their shrouds. For a more detailed look speak with a sail maker, North has a good write up, and PS Boat Clinic: Tuning the Masthead Rig - Web Only Article has a good one. Ideally of course your boat has been raced a lot and the class has a tuning guide for the boat. This is where tension gauges are great, because rig tension is the only way to exchange tuning numbers. 150lbs of tension on my J-22 is exactly the same as on your j-22, but 3.275" (stud to stud measurement) on my J-22 port cap shroud has no relation to yours.  

I have adjusted the tension on my standing rigging on the Coronado 23 MkII by centering the mast and fine tuning under sail. I was a little intimidated by the big boat's over-sized rigging but I now plan to proceed as described above - keeping the mast in column (except for pre-bend).  

But there is no pre bend needed on fractional rigs where the backstay creates mast bend.  

Um, I am not sure what fractional S you have tuned but as a rule they carry far more pre-bend and rake than a masthead rig. In large part because fractional rigs are far more prone to rig inversion than mast head rigs are. The additional prebend also makes it much easier to induce more bend in the mast with the backstay. The upside is that fractional rigs generally also have swept back cap shrouds, which as they are tightened induces prebend faster than with a masthead and strait shrouds.  

Get a Loos gauge or equivalent - it's the only way to get 15% on all the wires. I've found 30% and 40% difference from one to another with the tightest being well under 15% when they "felt" the same and "felt" tight enough. Some people recommend tightening keel bolts with a wrench with a piece of pipe on it and tightening the nuts "until the suckers scream". I prefer to use a torque wrench. Same thing IMO.  

I can only speak for the fractional swept back single spreader deck stepped Selden rig I have. The mast is rigged without pre bend and the bend is created by increasing the back stay tension. The mast is 51' tall.  

This is probably the most comprehensive rig tuning guide on the internet: http://www.riggingandsails.com/pdf/selden-tuning.pdf indeed a tension gage is needed; however, the information in this guide provides an alternative method using a 'meter stick' and an eyeball. One of the secondary functions of a tension gage is to continualy monitor the rig for permanent overstretching (yield/deformation) of wire and components & including chainplates and their attachments. If you sail your boat 'hard' or very aggresively, you can also monitor the rig while underway in boisterous conditions to ensure that the rig tension doesn't exceed about 30% wire tension ... the point at which most stainless wire begins to stretch or permanently deform (depending on how much 'safety factor' the designer included in his/her design) and the point at above which the potential of future fatigue failure rapidly accumulates. The following advice will allow you to 'properly' adjust backstay tension while underway and need to adjust for the wind strength encountered (a technical discussion or maximizing boat performance): http://www.ftp.tognews.com/GoogleFiles/Matching Luff Hollow.pdf  

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Rigging tension

• Thread starter Clydo
• Start date Jul 3, 2015
• Catalina Owner Forums
• Catalina 310

Does anyone have Loos Gauge numbers for our rigging? Clyde Thorington C310 # 245 ILEAN TOO San Jose, CA  

When we bought ours the mast was taken down as the boat was transported over land and the transporter (Derek Leslie-Sailor moving Sailors) measured the rigging and it was charted on a chart he gave to us and we re-tightened it as such, No loos tension gauge numbers sorry.  

Alansails said: When we bought ours the mast was taken down as the boat was transported over land and the transporter (Derek Leslie-Sailor moving Sailors) measured the rigging and it was charted on a chart he gave to us and we re-tightened it as such, No loos tension gauge numbers sorry. Click to expand

JK_Boston_Catalina310

• The Catalina turn buckles with the SS sleaves suck! They are difficult to get a good hold of to turn hard enough to get the proper tension. They will be replaced with open body turnbuckles at some point.
• To get 5-6 inches of rade with an inch of prebend is very difficult. I have my back stays buried and barely made it. The backstays on my traditional mast model are 4-6 inches too long. They will need to be shortened in the future.
• Like most sailors, I had my rig way too loose. Don't trust the yard guys who put your mast on or even the professionals that work locally without checking on what they did.
• Judging the 50 pounds of pressure statement cited above on the forestay with the roller furler on is very difficult. There is a lot of play in the furler unit.

JK_Boston_Catalina310 said: Just wanted to give this a little pump. I have been away from the computer so I haven't posted a response. I am in the middle of tuning my rig. I have been following a mix of the Selden Hints and Advice (large pdf), the Practical Sailor Tuning the Masthead Rig , the tuning guide in the owner's manual and the C34 tech wiki (two posts, the Rig Tuning and the Rig Tuning Chart ). I will do a more updated post when I am done, I have the under sail load portion to do this weekend. But here are some things I have found so far: [*]The Catalina turn buckles with the SS sleaves suck! They are difficult to get a good hold of to turn hard enough to get the proper tension. They will be replaced with open body turnbuckles at some point. [*]To get 5-6 inches of rade with an inch of prebend is very difficult. I have my back stays buried and barely made it. The backstays on my traditional mast model are 4-6 inches too long. They will need to be shortened in the future. [*]Like most sailors, I had my rig way too loose. Don't trust the yard guys who put your mast on or even the professionals that work locally without checking on what they did. [*]Judging the 50 pounds of pressure statement cited above on the forestay with the roller furler on is very difficult. There is a lot of play in the furler unit. Again, I plan to post a lot more details once I get the tuning work done. Jesse Click to expand

JK_Boston_Catalina310 said: Just wanted to give this a little pump. I have been away from the computer so I haven't posted a response. I am in the middle of tuning my rig. I have been following a mix of the Selden Hints and Advice (large pdf), the Practical Sailor Tuning the Masthead Rig , the tuning guide in the owner's manual and the C34 tech wiki (two posts, the Rig Tuning and the Rig Tuning Chart ). I will do a more updated post when I am done, I have the under sail load portion to do this weekend. But here are some things I have found so far: The Catalina turn buckles with the SS sleaves suck! They are difficult to get a good hold of to turn hard enough to get the proper tension. They will be replaced with open body turnbuckles at some point. To get 5-6 inches of rade with an inch of prebend is very difficult. I have my back stays buried and barely made it. The backstays on my traditional mast model are 4-6 inches too long. They will need to be shortened in the future. Like most sailors, I had my rig way too loose. Don't trust the yard guys who put your mast on or even the professionals that work locally without checking on what they did. Judging the 50 pounds of pressure statement cited above on the forestay with the roller furler on is very difficult. There is a lot of play in the furler unit. Again, I plan to post a lot more details once I get the tuning work done. Jesse Click to expand

if you have a loos gauge to use .....i am going to go out on a limb here ....if you do not race.... try these numbers on for size...you probably have 1/4 inch lines ......set the uppers at 10 to 12 % of breaking strength and set the lowers at 8 to 10 % breaking strength and give that a try it should be fairly close .....and if not adjust accordingly  

Woody, What is that # on the Loos tension Gauge?  

go here .... http://loosnaples.com/how-to-use-pt-series-tension-gauges  

• Backstays: 900 pounds, 10 on PT-3 Loos Gauge
• Upper Shrouds: 1,875 pounds, 29 on PT-3 Loos Gauge
• Intermediate Shrouds: 820 pounds, 9 on PT-3 Loos Gauge
• Forward Lower Shrouds: 1,230 pounds, 13 on PT-3 Loos Gauge
• Aft Lower Shrouds: 656 pounds, 6 on PT-3 Loos Gauge
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Sporty and Simple is the ClubSwan 28

• By James Boyd
• August 20, 2024

With its long history producing good-looking fast cruisers, in recent years, Nautor Swan has consolidated its performance yachts into its ClubSwan range, spanning the giant 125-foot Skorpios and the 80-footer My Son g to their fleets of ClubSwan 36s and 50s. All designs by Juan Kouyoumdjian, the latter saw 11 and 15 compete in their respective five-event annual championships (Nations Cup) in 2023 and are set to be joined by the ClubSwan 43 this year. But Nautor Swan has another new development: While its smallest boats have been the ClubSwan 36 (plus the original Swan 36 back in 1967), its latest launch is its smallest ever, the ClubSwan 28.

This new model is not surprising given that Swan is sailing’s most prolific premium brand, with more large performance sailing yachts in existence than any other manufacturer. Its range firmly extends into the superyacht stratosphere, so why not lure new owners into the fold, earlier, with a modest offering? Federico Michetti, head of sports activities and product manager at Nautor Swan, explains, “The concept of the 28 is to have an entry-level Swan that allows owners to enjoy the journey with Nautor and our events.” He expects that the 28 will entice younger sailors, even those new to sailing, into the ClubSwan realm.

Among race boats today, 28 to 30 feet is the cusp between sportboat and yacht, and the ClubSwan 28 is more the former, given its light weight (displacing sub-1,200 kg versus 1,600 kg and 1,800 for the more yachtlike Farr 280 and Cape 31, respectively); outboard engine rather than inboard; and low freeboard and minimal interior, accessed via the foredeck hatch. The ClubSwan 28 is neither an excessively high-end carbon race boat nor a high-­volume J/70, but rather somewhere between. “Our aim for it is to race well in 6 knots or 20. It is a powerful boat but not extreme,” Michetti says. 

Kouyoumdjian adds: “We incorporated everything that modern boats have to perform very well but didn’t go extreme on any of them.”

Fundamental to the boat’s ethos is simplicity, and for it to be fun to sail, but as Michetti puts it, “at the same time being safe, a boat that can fit the needs of everyone from ­beginner to expert.”

Aside from its performance, the best demonstration of this is that while most sportboat crews must hike and hike hard (it being so vital to stability on boats of this size), the 28 is a “legs-in” boat.

“We would like to avoid a ­hiking contest. It is much more social too; sailors can enjoy what is happening around them,” Michetti says. Everything is optimized for this—the sheerline and cockpit arrangement to make maximum use of the weight of the inward-facing crew, while keel draft and ballast make up righting moment lost due to no hiking and crew not moving fore and aft.

Compared with the ClubSwan 36’s advanced hull shape and fixed-keel/C-foil combination, the 28 is far more conservative. The hull has a low wetted surface area and rocker aft to minimize bow burying. Its modest 8-foot beam means it can be towed legally throughout Europe without having to be inclined. It also allows the boat and trailer combined to fit into a 40HQ container for shipping farther afield.

The hull shape is quite ­complex, with flared topsides at the stern, above a substantial chine. Going forward, the topsides turn vertical and then evolve into a deck chamfer ­forward of the mast. The bow has a slight reverse sheer and a retractable sprit.

The rig breaks new ground, but again, simplicity is the focus. Developed between Kouyoumdjian, Southern Spars’ Steve Wilson and mast-builder Axxon Composites, it is skifflike, with no backstay or runners, and with swept-back spreaders and a GNAV (inverted vang) to keep the cockpit clear. “Imagine a 49er rig that is set up by the headstay,” Kouyoumdjian says. “The prebend and the tension you have in that kind of rig usually comes from presetting the headstay and then you deal with it with the vang and cunningham. But we wanted something variable that could simulate what you could otherwise do with the runners.”

The solution is to have a ­permanently attached mast ­ram that can be operated while ­racing via a pump in the pit area. “It brings a lot of things together—not only the tension on the headstay, but also the tension on the rig,” Kouyoumdjian adds. “And when you tension the rig, you bend the mast.”

Therefore, powering up the rig comes with just two or three pumps and an inch of movement of the ram. “Everything on the rig is simple and has been done before many times successfully,” Kouyoumdjian says. “We added the mast up-and-down function. I imagine crews using it on medium-light days: When you get into a luff and you’d ease the runner, instead you’d drop the mast, or anticipating a puff, you’d pump it up. As soon as the wind gets to 10 to 12 knots, then you’d be maxed up, like you would be at ­maximum runner on a typical boat.”

The ClubSwan 28 will be a strict one-design class. Like the ClubSwan 36, it is being built in Cartagena, Spain, by Sinergia Racing Group. Tooling for the 28 is CNC milled to fine tolerances, and like most other boats in this size, it is a glass boat, built with vinylester resin, although naturally its mast, bowsprit and rudder are full carbon. The keel fin is stainless steel.

What appears to be a 1990s retro feature is the 28’s L-configuration keel, as featured on many vintage 1990 one-­designs and early VO60s. Aside from positioning bulb weight aft, this lengthens the keel’s leading edge by 15 to 20 percent, increasing its efficiency and improving, for example, lift to windward. Kouyoumdjian is enthusiastic about this and says that he would readily recommend L-keels on other race boats, but warns that the shape of the bulb’s front must be correct. To enable easy trailering, the keel can be raised, and the rudder assembly lifts out within its own box. A full derig, from water to motorway, is expected to take around three hours.

Production for the ClubSwan 28 will be modest, initially at least, with the yard in Cartagena expected to roll out two per month, with the ready-to-sail price forecast to be around 200,000 euros. The aim is to have international fleets, with boats built by local yards. After Europe, Michetti says, its focus will be the United States, although as yet there is no time frame for this. At the time of this writing, six 28s had been sold, with the first boat due for launch in late May, with all six expected to compete at the Rolex Swan Cup in Porto Cervo in September.

The advantage of the 28 is that the owner is buying into the ClubSwan world, with its established circuit, Michetti says. “If you are building a new class, people need to trust you. You need to create momentum, you need to have sponsors and find locations and organize regattas,” which the ClubSwan management already has, with its comprehensive circuit, mixing established regattas and ClubSwan’s own in the Med, UK, Baltic and US. Aside from enticing new sailors and teams into the ClubSwan family, Michetti also imagines that some teams with larger race boats might acquire a 28 for crew training.

There is currently no class crew-weight limit, which risks enticing larger muscle-bound types on board, but Michetti explains: “We want to avoid this crazy ‘saunas before the regatta’ thing” (in other classes, crews typically duck just below maximum weight at weigh-in). ClubSwan 28 crews will ­comprise four or five with a World Sailing Group 1 (amateur) owner-­driver and probably one mandatory female or youth crewmember.

For the 28 this year, there are a number of events, including a kick-off event from Nautor Swan’s base in Scarlino, Italy, in July, plus September’s Rolex Swan Cup and the Nations League 2024-ClubSwan 28 Invitational Sardinia Challenge, taking place in Villasimius, Sardinia, in early November. Given its trailerability, the ­likelihood is that the 28 will also race inland, for example, on Italy’s famous Lake Garda. Naturally, as numbers grow, there will also be the opportunity for the ClubSwan 28 to get its own start in the world’s top ­multiclass regattas.

• More: ClubSwan 28 , One Design , Print Summer 2024 , Sailboats
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