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Amati Rainbow J Class Yacht 1:80 Scale Model Boat Kit

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The Rainbow was designed by Starling Burgess, in order to defend the colours of the United States. The pilot was Mr. Harols S. Vanderbilt, who expressly wanted this yacht to challenge the strong contender Endeavour. Kit features: Double planked hull with maple and Mahogany strips Laser cut keel, frames,deck, cabin and skylight templates, Maple deck planking, Wooden mast and boom, Deck fittings in cast metal and brass, Sail material, Instruction manual, Full sized plans with detail sheets, Set of tools containing a tack hammer, contour sander and planking clamp. Scale 1:80 Length 480mm Height 700mm

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This high quality, highly detailed, intermediate level, Endeavour J Class yacht model is fully assembled and ready for display (not a kit). This item requires some semi-assembly you will need to raise up the mast (a moderate skill level is required).This...

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Endeavour by John Gummersall - FINISHED - Amati - Scale 1:80 - J Class yacht

• j-class yacht

By John Gummersall May 13, 2020 in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1901 - Present Day

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John gummersall.

Just starting up the build of the J Class Endeavour Yacht.    If some of you have seen my other logs, you know I am a beginner builder at best.   Main thing is that I really enjoy the builds.   In my past (earlier) life I raced 36' sloops (22 sq meter class) so the J Class yacht always caught my attention.   So when looking for a model to build, the Endeavour caught my eye...

As others have done, the instructions call to first build the mast and boom, but I was too excited to start the hull, so my mast and boom will come later too.

Instructions call to fist connect the two keel sections with two rectangular support pieces - One on both sides of the keel.  Does not specify an exact location.  However you really need to insure the support pieces will not interfere with the section of the hull that is double reinforced as those double frame pieces are really close to these support pieces.  In my case I dry fit the two double reinforced pieces and drew a line at the edge of the 2nd support piece.   That way you will know where to locate the two rectangular support pieces.

2nd piece removed and line drawn.   You need to verify when you add the two rectangular support pieces they do not cross this line...  or you will have some "adjustments" in your future.

With the double double reinforced frame pieces removed you can not glue the two halves or the keel.   First side is easy just lay the tow keep halves together and glue on the support piece

Support piece on the other side is more of a challenge, as you have to add a pieces of scrape wood under the bow and stern sections to keep the keep straight.  In addition to scrape wood under the bow and stern sections I added a level (for weight) on top in an attempt to keep the keel straight as the glue dried.

Not sure if that was a good idea or not, as then the glue dried and I looked town the keel, it still had a small bend to it.   Maybe I should have used a vice to hold the pieces together.   In any event, the bend was not severe, and I think when the deck is added, it will straighten out... Lets hope,,,

Kind of hard to notice in the picture but there is a slight bend in the keel as it goes aft. 

Before I begin the frame sections, I decided to build some planking clamps out of paper binder clips.   These are the same other modelers have made and really make the planking much easier.    In my case I bought the smallest binder clips I could find.   

Before adding the frames, they were numbered just to keep them straight.   Not so much with this model, but with another model I worked on, I did not number them and they were very similar is shape.  And after getting them all cut out and put in a pile, it was a challenge to keep them straight.  In any event, a good idea to number them.

Below shows the first two frame sections added.  Note in the first picture the double frame section is right up against the line I drew earlier.   

While the line helped me with fore and aft positioning of the keel support pieces I did not think of up and down positioning.  Note in the picture above and below, the shaded wood.   This is wood that sticks up above the frame section and needs to be shaved down.   In reality the two keel support pieces need to be higher more toward the top of the keel, or as in my case, you will need to do some "adjustments".....   The instructions seem to imply the keel support pieces can more or less be positioned anywhere between the two frames.... So,,, do as I say, not as I do...

Side view showing the  keel support pieces sticking up above the frame pieces

Adding the support frames is more or less straight forward...  Be sure to verify each support piece is perpendicular to the keel.  I would suggest some sort of right angle like a corner brace to hold each frame as the glue dries.   In my case I attempted to keep the frames straight, but I have to admit there are a few close but not exactly perpendicular to the keel.   I have a feeling I will pay for this with the later planking,,,

 At this point I was curios as to what the rudder would look like so I dry fitted it to the keel.   Unless I am mistaken, the rudder is too large for the keel.

Assuming this was a mistake with the kit i trimmed down the rudder to match the keel.   After I did that, initially I was feeling pretty good as it turned out OK.  But afterwards I got a little anxious wondering if the kit was correct and the mistake was me trimming it down.   We will see later on...   Below is the trimmed keel.   

Next the fore and aft sections of the deck were added to the frame.   As I was hoping earlier, with rubber bands, clamps, and a little muscle, the bent frame straightened out when the deck sections were added.

Let the planking begin,,,,,  Below are a few pictures of the planking.   Not much to say here as planking is pretty straight forward.   I started at the top and worked my way down each side alternating each plank to avoid warping the hull,   Every once in awhile I had to add a filler strip to keep thing straight, but no real issues with the first planking

Closing in on the end,,,,,

Complete with first planking,,,,  Just need some sanding and wood filler to smooth things out.  At this point the debate is still on as to whether to make the hull blue (like the real Endeavour) or have it natural with the walnut finish.   

Will make that decision after the 2nd planking,,,, How that turns out will probably determine which way I go,,    

• yvesvidal , egkb , Jeff5115 and 4 others

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Very nice progress. Beautiful planking and elegant hull.

Now after a little quick sanding with 220 sand paper she should be ready for some wood filler.   In my case I choose "Filla-in-a-bag".  It can be ordered online (and other places) at www.goodfilla.com.   I really like it to fill cracks and seams.   It can be ordered in many colors, is water based, and has the consistency of toothpaste.  It is really easy to apply and and smooth out over the hull.   Since it is water based, you can dip your fingers in water as part of the smoothing process.   You should end up with a very smooth finish.  After it is dry, very easy to sand, or you could just wet your fingers again and smooth out any rough spots.   Water sets it active again.

Below are a few pictures after the "Filla-in-a-bag" has been applied

Show below after a little sanding with 220.

At this point if I knew I was going to paint the Endeavour, I would skip the 2nd planking as with a little sanding it would be ready for paint.   But I am still on the fence about that, so I will go on to the 2nd planking.

Since the Filla-in-a-bag is water based and re-activated with water, I decided to put on a quick coat of primer before the 2nd planking.  That is probably not required, but I was not sure how the water based wood glue would react with the Filla-in-a-bag.   I did not want that to potentially be an issue.    And a quick coat of primer is easy, fast, and will take that worry away..

Below starts the planking from the top down,,,,  I am not really skilled and planking,,, Too new at this.   In my case I choose to overlap the planks at the bow and then cut off the excess.   At the stern I was able to make the planks meet without overlapping/trimming them.   I am not sure it that made the planking easier or harder, but in the end, after trimming, it all turned out looking pretty good

And of course there are the unavoidable "filler" strips...   Not sure you can do anything about that.   In my case these came about the 13th plank.   That may have come a little late.  I probably should have added these "filler" strips after 8th or 9th plank as it took a longer and longer amount of time with each plank to get them to lay straight.  Live and learn...

At this point, from what I have read from other logs, it is best to start planking from the bottom of the keel and work toward the middle.  To be honest, I am not sure that is good or bad.   I am somewhat on a roll planking from the top and I kind of felt it would be best just to continue to the bottom - adding "filler" strips where needed to keep things straight.   Anyway, I decided to start from the bottom and meet in the middle.

I don't have any pictures from starting at the bottom, but it is pretty straight forward and the keep is pretty straight.   It only get (shall we say) "interesting" when you meek up (with the top planking) at the curve in the hull.

With more "filler" strips than I cared to count, I am slowly closing in at middle.   My only saving grace is that, probably because the 2nd planking is so thin,  with sanding, the seams merge together very well.  In most cases you can not even see the seams.    I will say though, LMDAVE mentioned in his log that you only had four "filler" strips.    He is a true craftsman.    If you want to know how to build the Endeavour see his log.   If you want to know what not to do, follow my log.  

As I indicated earlier, with some trimming the overlapped planks at the bow turned out pretty good.   I am not sure I would recommend it,,,  Jury is still out if I really made things easier or harder for me.

Only real tricky part about the 2nd planking is around the rudder post.

The part highlighted in blue below is a little wider than the runner.  In my case I glued two strips of the 2nd planking to that part of the keel and trimmed it down to size.  Otherwise the bare wood would show on both sides of the rudder when it was attached.

The part in red below required some sever bending for the 2nd planking.  Not a real big deal as the planking is so thin.   Soak in water for a few minutes the part of the 2nd planking that was to be bent, and with a little CA glue, it bends and glues pretty easily.   Then with a little 220 sand paper, smooth it out.   In addition, the triangular portion of the rudder post (part of the red highlight) is also a little wider than the rudder.  As shown in the next picture, I put some 2nd planking on both edges of the triangle portion.   No need to fill the triangle as the rudder will cover the middle portion.

At this point the 2nd planking is done.   Just need some very light sanding.   And I really mean light sanding.   The 2nd planking is only .5mm thick.   Any more than light sanding and you are going to break through and the wood below will show through....  If that happens and you plan to paint the Endeavour, no problem,  But if you do not plan to paint the Endeavour,  you will have a lot of "fiddling" in your future patching the 2nd planking -  trying to make it look like it was not patched.   Not even sure it that can be done....  If you break through, your paint/no-paint decision will probably be made for you - you will be painting.

At this point, I think I am going to keep the hull natural and not paint it the traditional blue (as the real Endeavour).   We have a 36 foot boat years ago that was mahogany and all natural,,  so I am kind of partial to that look.   On to grain filler before the poly,,,,,

• yvesvidal , GrandpaPhil , Julie Mo and 1 other

Beautiful 2nd planking. You are right, that hull can remain as it is without painting.

Very nice, but what it that odd planking on the stern all about?  the fan pattern seems a bit odd.

Earlier builds:-M.V. Peterna- sand barge made from a Galipoli landings Galeas (first commission)

                     Miss America X, 1/8th scale-scratchbuilt

                     Baby Horace III, 1/8th scale-     "

                     Miss Britain III, 1/12th scale-     "

                     Riva Aquarama Specials x 2, 1/12th scale-scratchbuilt

                     Lapstrake Freebody electric canoe, 1/12th scale-"

                     Albatross speedboat, 1/6th scale, all aluminium, "

Current builds:-

                    Victorian Racing Cutter Vanity by M.R.Field - scale 1:16 - Radio

Cornhusker1956

Looks great so far.  I am working on the same boat at present.  I somewhat agree with Martin’s comment however I too have gone with almost the same design.  No center strip just herringbone pattern for all.  It does leave you with a small diamond shape at the very tip that is difficult to fabricate.  Thanks for the tip with the filler.  Have tried with Elmers Wood Filler that is a little paste like but am not real happy with the results.  Is the second planking with mahogany or walnut? 

Martin and Cornhusker,,,,

I agree the stern section is not exactly "by the book".   My modeling skills are expert by any means.    Since I covered the stern section with wood filler, I had a hard time finding the exact center line of the stern section.  As such I could not get the port and starboard planks to line up with a herringbone    pattern .  Unless they line up exactly, you end up with a funky lopsided stern section - or that was my result anyway.    A lopsided stern planking would be no problem if I was going to paint the hull, but I think I am going to keep it natural.    After several attempts at herringbone    pattern,  I was just not happy with how the stern section looked.. so I went with the center strip.   Even that is not exact, but close enough.  

As for the 2nd planking wood, the instructions say it is  mahogany, but it sure looks like walnut to me,,,   So i guess the answer to your question of "mahogany or walnut",  I really am not sure.

one more comment on "filla-in-a bag".... It is a powder that comes in a number of colors.   In my case, do to my lack of knowledge/skill I ordered the pine color, as it seemed would match the pine like first planking.  In reality you should order the color that most matches your final paint or stain....  As a result, there were a few"pine like" spots showing between some of the 2nd planking where the planks did not fit snugly.    Not a big deal as when you sand the boat, the seams all merge together and you no longer see the filla between some of the planks.     Next boat I will add a little paint color to the next batch I make.

With the 2nd planking complete I wanted to use from grain filler.   Never used one before, but I had heard it is the thing to do to get a smooth final coat.  Since I had great experience with "filla-in-a-bag" I ordered GoodFilla CLEAR Water-based grain filler.   Here is a case of do as I say - not as do.    The instructions indicated the grain filler would go on and dry white.   Then with a wet rag, the white can easily be removed and the grain filler will turn clear when coated.  The grain filler when on really smooth - the consistency of smooth white glue - and did dry white.   Pretty scary if you want a clear finish

In my case I came back the next day to wipe off the white.   Even though I rubbed somewhat hard, there were still some white strips in between  some of the planks.  I was a bit worried, but with some sanding and a little stain, the white strips disappeared..    While I did not like the fact that I could not get rid of all the white with the cleanup, the end result was a finish as smooth as glass and the poly went on smooth.

Not sure the moral of the story... I have not used grain filler before so for all I know they all go on white.  It was probably do to my lack of skill and I must have done something wrong with the grain filler, as all the white was supposed to go away with the light wet rag...  Not sure what I will do next time other than try it again.

All came out in the end as below shows the final result after 2 coats of poly.    I will probably go on to the deck next and when complete will probably come back to the hull with another coat

• yvesvidal , Nirvana , egkb and 2 others

All The Best

Current Build   :  HM Schooner Ballahoo

In the Pipeline :  HM Cutter Sherbourne, HM Mortar Convulsion, Emma C Berry & C18th English Longboat.. Eventually That Is.. 🙄

One final picture before I start the decking.   I need to still put a white water line on it, but at the moment a little to scared.   Not screwing up the waterline and getting it right will be a challenge for me.

Before I start the decking, I wanted to build a stable cradle to hold the ship.  Up until this time I the Endeavour has spent most of the time on my lap with the 1st and 2nd planking.   With the decking and deck fittings I can see where a steady cradle to hold the boat would come in handy...  So with some spare wood and a hour or so (most of the time trying to figure out the design) the cradle was formed.   Hopefully it will be worth the effort.   

• egkb , yvesvidal , Julie Mo and 3 others

Hey John ..   A good solid support cradle I think will always be worth the effort ..  I hollowed out a large piece of Styrofoam for Ballahoo (she's a small build though) which allowed me to manoeuvre her easily and securely as I decked and fitted etc..

Can't wait till your next update on this wonderful build

I did purchase one of those  Waterline Marker doodahs from Model Expo..  Only $8 (us).   I will let you know how it works out....  One potential problem I see.... with my dark hull, not sure how well the pencil line will show up.

Hopefully it will be as you say..." easier than it sounds"

• Nirvana and egkb
• 2 weeks later...

Looks great.  Agree that a cradle is necessary for the deck.  The Italian translation of the wood for the planking says mahogany but I think that it is walnut.  I opted to stain mine with mahogany which resulted in a far darker tint.  I am disappointed that my attempts at using a wood filler on the second planking didn’t go well and it didn’t stain as well.  I am planning on using some real mahogany strips for the deck edging and center planks with the lime wood/linden wood for the remainder.  I did notice that the deck planking is done from the outside in which means lots of tapered strips next to the centerline.  I was considering an inside out decking - not true to the real thing but a little easier.  I have liked the look on my Bluenose and Pride of Baltimore.  Will have to think about it some more.  

cornhusker1956

Interesting about your thought of planking from the inside out.  I had thought about that, but since the last few rows get smaller and smaller I always thought it would look better if the smaller planks were on the inside.   But I have not seen that, so I can not say I really have a valid thought.   I will take a look at your  Bluenose and Pride of Baltimore logs to see what inside out planking looks like.   

I also used planked the first row of the deck in mahogany (or what amati calls mahogany strips).  I had a few strips left over from the 2nd planking.    I did not have enough mahogany strips for that and a middle strip.   I still wanted a dark strip down the middle, so I had some leftover walnut from a previous ship (king of the mississippi) so I used that down the middle.   Not quite the same color, but I like it.   You will see some pictures later on in this post.

Anyway,,, back to the Endeavour...  At this time I figured it was time to do the mast and boom.    With the mast nothing really exciting.   Only thing of note was that the instructions call for .5mm holes to hold the eyelets.   I do not have a calibrator to verify so my bits may be off, but my .5mm, .55mm, and .6mm bits were too small for the eyelets.   I found I had to use a .65mm bit for all the eyelets holes.   Either that of my bits have gotten mixed up and I really was drilling a .5mm hole.    Anyway there are a ton of eyelet holes to drill.   I have a small electric drill so the task was not that bad, but I really do not recommend you attempt this many holes if you only have a pin vise....  You will go crazy.    

The Endeavour has a spinnaker pole, but no fitting on the mast to attach it.   Not a big deal, but I added an eyelet on the front of the mast that show where the spinnaker pole would attach to the mast.  You can barely see the eyelet on the above picture, so it is blown up below.   

Here is the aft side of the mast.   Not here I decided to not have the groove go the entire length of the mast.  In a real boat the slot of the sail is just that,,, a slot for the sail.  See the slot start a little below the goose neck on the bottom of the mast and slot stop short of the top.   Not a big deal, but just looked better to me

In regards to the boom, I did a little more customization.   In my case I do not plan to put the sails on the boat.  To me the rigging looks great all by itself and the sails detract from it.   Since no sails, I decided not to put the long rod along the boom that he sail would attach to.   Instead I just lined the boom with more eyelets similar to the mast.   Many will not like that, but to me it just looks better than the long bar is you are not going to put up the sails.

One note,,,, if you plan to put eyelets on the boom, you will have to acquire some more eyelets.  There are not enough extra eyelets included with the kit to allow for eyelets on the boom...

Nothing new here other than a paint job

On to the spinnaker pole.   I could not find any written documentation on the spinnaker pole.   However if you look at the drawing showing the mast and boom, there is also a picture of the spinnaker pole.   I guess you just have to know to build it.   Nothing to it,,, just have to put an eyelet at each end of the spinnaker pole and glue on the fitting that attache it to the deck.    I strongly suggest a vice and an electric drill.  Even though the .65mm bit is small, the spinnaker pole is not much larger.   It takes a steady hand to drill the holes at both ends of the pole.  I know I could not do it what a pin vise.

On to the decking....  Since the hull will be mahogany the first few planks around the deck probably should be mahogany.  I a few strips left over from the 2nd planking.  Doubling them up (each is .5mm thick) you end of with a 1mm thick plank.   For the center plank, I did not have enough mahogany left over, so I choose some walnut from a previous ship.   The color does not match, but after a light stain they will be pretty close - or at least that is what I hope.  🙂

Only big issue is you will have to create a custom curved stern planking section.   My stern piece is not museum quality, but for a beginner I think it turned out OK.

As for the deck planking,  I pondered for a long time as to what was the best deck layout but I don't think I found it.    In my case I cut the planks in 10mm sections and staggered them.   Originally i thought this would be a good look, but now I am not so sure.    It results in a lot of cuts (10mm) and I am not sure I is any better (may actually be worse) than if I has used 20mm sections or maybe mostly full planks.   Anyway, this is what 10mm planks sections look like.   I also used the standard pencil lead on the plank edges technique to simulate the caulking between the planks.

Below pictures show my progress to date.   

• egkb , Julie Mo , GrandpaPhil and 3 others

Second planking is 1/2 done...  As I mentioned earlier, after intensive study on the best pattern for the 2nd planking,,,,, I probably choose the worst option.    I think a better option would have been 20mm planks in a completely staggers pattern.   Or maybe  20mm planks staggered every other row.    In any event, my 10mm planks will be OK in the end.   Next model will try something different.

In the interest of "do as I say and not as I do"....  below show the 1st half (and a little of the 2nd half) of the 2nd planking complete.

• yvesvidal , egkb , Nirvana and 1 other

You have a very nice hull there, and your deck is coming along nicely.

Current projects: 

21' Fisherman's Launch - plans by Howard Chapelle

Completed projects: 

21' Yawl Longboat - plans from the National Maritime Museum  

Deben 5 tonner - a Whisstock yard design

24' exploration gaff rigged ketch - a Tad Roberts design

15' knockabout sailing boat

Nice job John. I just added this model to my collection and am following your build with great interest. I am also a newbie builder and hope I can learn a lot from you.

Current Build

18th Century Armed Longboat-Model Shipways

Completed Build

Lady Eleanor-Vanguard Models

King of the Mississippi-Artesania Latina

Future Build

Vanguard Models- Alert

Jeff Farber

Glad to have you follow along,,,,  Remember,,,, "do as I say and not as I do",,,,, and you will have fewer (shall we say) "customization's" and a great finished product.    🙂

Just completed the deck planking.  Turned out pretty good,  I still think I should have made the planks longer, but I am happy with end end result.   Now for the scary part, staining the deck planking.   Will be testing out several variations of stain and hope one "calls my name" 

• Nirvana , yvesvidal and egkb

On to the deck holes for the various fittings.   One could cut out the deck layout from the plans, but if you want to save the plans, it is best to make a copy of them to cut out.   In my copier I had to copy each half of the boat, cut them out, tape them together, and then tape them to the hull.    This is good for most of the 1.5mm holes, but not so good for the ones marked in red below.   Problem with the "red" ones are that they are either too close to the edge of the hull or too close to the center line.   Any variation between the paper copy and the actual hull (and there will be) will not look good when the paper is removed.   For the holes on the edge, temporarily lift up the paper and mark the spot with a pencil.   Later when the paper is removed you can drill those holes.

As for the 1.5mm holes around the mast, you can more or less mark them with a ruler off the mast and drill them.   The exact location of these holes is not as important as getting them to line up with the edge of the boat or mast.   All the other 1.5mm holes can be drilled off the paper template without issue.

Having said that, in the spirit of "do as I say and not as I do", I would not recommend drilling these edge holes at this time.   For some reason later on in the build the instructions call to install tow rails on both sides of the hull.  To me these toe rails should be installed now - before you drill the deck holes.   

I drilled the holes before the toe rails, and as you can see below, I have some patching and re-drilling in my future.   I suppose if you are very careful with your hole locations you can drill the holes before the toe rail, but I wish I had not.

• Julie Mo , yvesvidal , MEDDO and 2 others

Looks like great progress.  I am really enjoying reading this build, mainly because you are several steps ahead of me and I get lots of tips.

I decided to plank from the outside in but with full length planks.  I found some very long lime wood/linden planks at Ages of Sail.  Unlike most other builds of this model I elected to use 6 in long planks for the second planking on the hull instead of full/partial hull length so I am hoping that the full length planks on the deck with offset the hull. 

• yvesvidal , Julie Mo , Nirvana and 1 other

I really like what you did with the full length  planks.  They look great.    The wood you have used on the middle strip and along the sides - is that stained mahogany  or some other wood?  Maybe it is just the photos, but it looks darker than the  mahogany supplied.

The center and edge pieces are mahogany stained with red mahogany.  I got the longer (1 meter in length) mahogany strips from Ages of Sail also.  I had to stain the hull with the red mahogany because of problems with some wood filler that I used to repair some gaps. Since I did the hull I did the deck pieces also.  

I do have a few questions, especially about how you did the second planking of the bow.  Your ridge line is very clean and mine is very “bumpy”.  I saw the picture with the overlapping planks and wondered about the method.   Where did you get this from and is there a video or instruction for this method?  I think that your hull with the full length planks looks better than mine with the 6in planks.  The reason I did the shorter planks was that my past experience with the “filler wedges” haven’t worked out so good.  At least with the shorter planks I didn’t need any cheater wedges but did have to struggle with some curled edges (hence the wood filler).

Another question is about painting the brass on the boom and mast.  I left mine brass but have noticed that most do pain these brass add-ons.  Your thoughts on painting versus not?

I have also noticed that there is a wide range of things done with the cleats.  Some leave as pewter, some paint brown, and some scratch build wood.  I am thinking about adding a dark/black patina using a “Patina for metal” liquid.  Have you decided what to do with these?

I noticed that you are from Glenview.  I lived in Mt Prospect many years ago.  Almost neighbors.

I had not been to Ages of Sail before, but after you mentioned it I took a look and they have a fantastic selection of wood.    In addition they seem to have a good selection of models to build and reasonable  prices.  I will defiantly  give them a second look next time I am in the market for wood or model.

As for the second planking, pardon my ignorance, but I am not sure what you mean by "ridge line".    Take a peak earlier in my log where I talk about the 2nd planking.   I think the main thing that allowed me to get a smooth second planking was the application of the "filla-in-a-bag" I talked about.    That was the first time I used it, but I will defiantly  use it again.   It is a power you mix to the consistency of tooth paste.   I covered  the entire hull over the first planking.   Before it dries you can get it very smooth by just wetting your hands an rubbing over the wet mix on hull.   In my case I was so happy with the smoothness of the wet hand rubbing I probably stopped before it was completely smooth.   To me it was smooth, but in reality I could have smoothed it more.   In any event it sands very easily, but smoothing it more would have saved some sanding.  Anyway, after the application of the "filla-in-a-bag", wet smoothing it out, and sanding, the hull was as smooth as glass.    Putting on the very thin second planking was very easy.   With a little pressure, the thin plans just seemed to blend together.

As for the  “filler wedges”   I too was pretty scared as this was the first hull I have built the required them.   My previous build (King of the Mississippi) did not require them, but looking a back I probably should have used one or two  “filler wedges”   on that one too.    As I mentioned in my log, I ended up with way more  “filler wedges”   than most people, but I just could not get the planks to lay down without them.   But with the smooth hull, the second planking seams really blending well together.   You have to look really close to see any seams at all.

One thing I will say about “filler wedges” (from my initial experience after having done way too many of them) is that they look much harder than they are.   They do take patience and very delicate  sanding on a sanding block.   One thing I did was to only put a “filler wedge" on one end of the plank.   The other end was usually cut off at the end of the boat.   There is no way I could have successfully put a “filler wedge" on both ends of a plank.  

As for the  painting the brass on the boom and mast, I too was at a quandary as to "paint or no paint".   I have been around sail boats most my life and I have never see painted fitting on a mask or boom.   But I am new to this modeling, and looking at what most folks have done - they painted them.   So I followed like a herd of sheep  and painted them.    Since then I have see other J Class builds that did not paint them and they look great.    If you are on the fence as to  "paint or no paint", I would suggest do not paint them, as I kind of wish I had not painted them, but you make the call.  Same issue with the cleats on the hull....  I have not gotten to that point in the build, yet but I know it is coming...   Again, when was the last time you have seen a painted cleat on a boat.  Most boats I know have shiny stainless steal cleats.    Not sure what to do with the cleats... same issue ....  "paint or no paint"    - ugh

I should have describe it as the bow.  As you see below mine is not smooth.  Comparing mine to the picture from your May 28th post you can see the difference.  The 7th photo in your May 21st post shows the second planking of the bow with planks on the alternating sides protruding beyond the other side.  Is this how you got such a smooth line?  Is so is there a instructional video or something as a reference for this method?  I have not ever seen this done.

Take a look at the Amati videoson building the Endeavour.   You will find them searching on YouTube under "amati america's cup endeavour".    There you will see partx 1 though 19.   They show a master building of the Endeavour.    Parts 4-10 show the first and second planking.   But be sure to look at all 19 videos, they do give some helpful hints.

Not sure I follow every thing the say, but they are very helpful as to how someone else has build the Endeavour.  They have been and still are very useful to me as I go along

i think you have done an amazing job on this build, very well done

Its all part of Kev's journey, bit like going to the dark side, but with the lights on  

All the best

SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS. KEEP IT REAL!

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

On the build table

HMS Indefatigable 1794 by Kevin - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Feb 2023

Belle Poule 1834 by Kevin - OcCre - 1/90 - French frigate - started June 2024 - - 

MHS Britannic by Kevin 

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1/48    Amerigo Vespucci     1/84 - Panart-    

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Finished     

Hercules by Kevin - OcCre - 1/50 - Tugboat - Finished -  May 2024

Nectan-Mountfleet-models-steam-trawler-1 /32 - Completed June 2020

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  Dorade renamed Dora by Kevin - Amati - 1/20 - Completed March 2021 

Stage Coach 1848 - Artesania Latina - 1/10 -Finished  

Lady Eleanor by Kevin - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1/64 - Fifie fishing boat

While trying to figure out what stain to use on the deck I decided to look into the deck cabin structures.   One note here, the instructions call to stain and assemble each structure.   Later on they say to insert the windows.   No way you can put the windows in with the cabin structures with them assembled.  You need to stain/paint each piece, put in the windows, and then assemble each structure.    Below shows the structure pieces after an initial coat of black paint.   Instructions called for mahogany paint, but for some reason I felt black would be better.   Naturally, after the first coat of black, not sure I like black.    So I guess the 2nd coat will be in a brown (mahogany like) color.

I am not looking forward to assembling the structures.  You can not really tell from the below picture, but these structures are really small.   And with my big hands, they are going to be (shall we say) "interesting" to assemble.

As for the deck stain, I ended up with Golden Pecan.   I wanted a very light stain to more show up the contrast in the wood.   The holes have been drilled in the appropriate locations waiting for the eyelets to be inserted next

• Moab , yvesvidal , egkb and 1 other

I too have big fingers and it was difficult to assemble the deck furniture.  I agree that adding the acetate windows before assembly is easier but it caused me some problems.  The windows added depth to the frames and caused a gap between the window frame and the side walls.  Not much but it looks a little off.  

Watch out for those metal grates flying off to parts unknown when snipped from the big piece.  

Deck looks really nice with the stain.

After giving it some thought, I am going to skip the  acetate windows.  Since there are the gold bar across all the windows, and because the windows are so small, I am not sure the acetate windows would really show up if they were there or not.   Besides, I am sure I would just make a mess of the acetate windows trying to glue them into such tiny spots.   The gold bars themselves  will he hard enough to make them look neat on the structures.

As such I just assembled all the deck structures and painted them a light brown (mahogany like).    They look pretty good as they are.   Once I have attached the gold bars, I will include a picture.   One thing I will say,,,, a big help would be to have two small tweezers to assemble these structures.    The parts are really small and big hands just do not do the job.

As for the metal grates,   I have dealt  with them on my last model.   You are right, they to have a tendency to fly off to parts unknown  when you cut them out.    I have lost a few of them in the past.   Amazing how they just disappear  into the unknown....

Just completed adding the gold bars the various windows in the deck structures.    As Cornhusker1956 pointed out above, it is really hard to add the acetate windows.   Not so much as they are very small, but they have to be cut really accurate to only barely overlap the wood frames - Maybe even have to have them be able to be inserted into with windows.   Pictures in the manual seem to indicate you just cut them with a somewhat easy overlap in the windows.   But as Cornhusker1956 found out, any overlap at all, the windows get in the way of the parts fitting together.     See his comments above.  

Anyway, I just added the gold bars and skipped the acetate windows.    Unless you are are very skilled modeler (and I am not) and you can cut the acetate to fit inside the widows,  I would save yourself a lot of time and frustration, and skip the acetate windows.   I think in the end you will be happier with the result.   I know I am.    But that is just my opinion.   If you are up to the challenge - go for it.     

Below are the results.   The structures at this point are only sitting on the deck and have not been glued.   I also have not added to cushions in the cabin entryway.   Probably best to do that after I have glued in the cabin structure.   Otherwise if they are not exactly in place, the  cabin entryway may not lay flush to the deck.   

If you look close, you can tell the acetate windows are not there, but in the end, no one will notice.  I am really glad I did not go through the frustrations of trying to get with windows in those tiny structures.

• egkb and yvesvidal

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Model Range

The J Class model range consists of two J Class hulls, the Nottingham 48 and the Nottingham 60, each of which can be built to carry either bermuda rigs, gaff rigs and coming shortly a genoa rig. In addition I'm nearing the end of the development of the International Dragon, a little under 60 inches and designed from outset to carry a genoa rig. The Canterbury version of the 48 is still available for those who want to race abroad and I've also included on this website details of the Folkboat project.

The Nottingham 48 and the Nottingham 60 are supplied in "kit" form for the customer to build. The hulls are of very high quality and constructed using traditional fibreglass techniques with pigmented gelcoat to achieve the colour scheme choice of the customer. The kit includes the hull, rudder, ballast (for the 48), internal woodwork with stand, deck and hatches

The Canterbury J is only available in White as the hull will need to be filled and painted when the ballast is fitted however the ballast and woodwork are the same as the Nottingham. In a spirit of honesty I would have to declare that whilst this moulding is from a Canterbury Association approved mould the quality of the moulding is only fair compared with the high quality Nottingham mouldings. The quality is however less relevant as the hull will need to filled and painted anyway

The International Dragon is a new project. This model may become available as a kit but initially is available as a Ready to Run, with the customer only providing the radio. This model is built and engineered to the highest standards and will incorporate improved design features that are not generally found in model yachts...some day all models will be built this way!!

I'm introducing the Folkboat on this site on behalf of a chum, Charles Chambers. The hulls are laminated by ourselves and the model is available from Charles as a Ready to Run.

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Amati Endeavour J Class 1:35

$ 285.00

Amati Endeavour J Class new wooden hull 1:35

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1934 AMERICA’S CUP UK CHALLENGER

In 1934 the schooner Endeavour staked a claim on the America’s Cup, winning the first two races. The third regatta was bound to be the most exciting. Unfortunately fate played an unkind trick to Sir Thomas Sopwith, who failed and thus couldn’t win the America’s Cup. The Rainbow won with a few seconds lead over the Endeavour.

Kit includes limewood and mahogany strips for hull planking. Mahogany deck house, wooden skylights and hatches and are all laser cut. Pre-finished wood, cast metal and brass fittings plus photo-etched details replicate original equipment. Pure white Dacron sail cloth and wooden display stand completes this magnificent J-Class Sailboat kit.

Length 46″ Height 59-1/2″ Scale 1:35 Intermediate Level Double Plank on Bulkhead Construction

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Amati Endeavour J Class with Tools - Model Ship Kit

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• Premium, imported model ship kit by Amati!
• Detailed English instructions included.
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• Scale: 1:80

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The yacht Endeavour staked a claim on the America's Cup by gracefully winning the first two races. The third regatta proved to be the most exciting round to racer and audience alike, as Sir Thomas Sopwith lost his first-place status a small distance before the finish line. This kit is the replication of the swift vessel that almost acquired the America's cup on that day. The Endeavour kit includes a plank-on-frame construction with laser cut keel, frames and deck, double planking in basswood and mahogany, metal and wooden fittings, cloth sails, wooden detailed mast, brass photo-etched parts, building tools, complete plans and detailed instructions for a museum quality finish. Scale: 1:80 Length: 18.8 inches Height: 27.5 inches

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• laser cut keel, frames and deck, double planking in basswood and mahogany, metal and wooden fittings, cloth sails, wooden detailed mast, brass photo-etched parts, building tools, complete plans and detailed instructions

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J-Class Yacht Model Endeavour

Overall size: 54 cm (L) x 70 cm (H)

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• Reviews (9)

Overall dimensions:

Length: 21.25" (54 cm) Width: 4" (10 cm) Height: 27.5" (70 cm)

Indulge in the timeless elegance of the J Class Endeavour yacht, beautifully captured in this handcrafted model.

• This J Class model yacht is lacquer painted for a sleek finish: navy blue and burgundy.
• Supported by a solid wooden stand.
• Handmade wooden model yacht with a very detailed decking and brass fittings.
• The Endeavour J Class model is sold fully assembled including the sails - no need to hook up the rigging.
• Not a kit and not radio-controlled.
• Dispatched from Bristol or Click and Collect.

PLEASE NOTE:   All our models are for display and decorative purposes. They are not functioning models and must not be put in water or left outdoors.

Models are shipped via DHL and shipping costs are as follows: UK mainland and Northern Ireland  @ £10.80 The Scottish Highlands & Channel Islands @ £36.00 The USA @ £120.00 Please email us to request a delivery charge to your country.

INTERNATIONAL DELIVERY INCLUDING EUROPE: Shipping cost doesn't include customs clearance, import taxes, duty or VAT. The buyer will be liable for payment of all import charges applicable in their respective country. Each country has a different tax rate. We advise buyers to check their government website for further information.

The J Class Endeavour yacht is a sailing yacht that was originally built in 1934 for Sir Thomas Sopwith, a British aviation pioneer and yachtsman. The Endeavour yacht was one of the most famous and successful racing yachts of the J Class, a class of sailboats that were used for racing during the 1930s.

The Endeavour yacht was designed by the naval architect Tore Holm and built by the Camper and Nicholsons shipyard in Gosport, England. She was designed to be fast and sleek, with a 131-foot (40-meter) wooden hull, a towering 173-foot (53-meter) mast, and a total sail area of around 9,000 square feet (836 square meters).

The Endeavour yacht competed in the 1934 America's Cup race against the American defender Rainbow, but was ultimately defeated in a closely contested series of races. The yacht was then sold to a new owner and continued to compete in various racing events throughout the 1930s.

After a period of neglect and disrepair, the Endeavour yacht was purchased by a new owner in the 1980s and underwent a major restoration that brought her back to her former glory. Today, the Endeavour yacht is still actively sailed and is considered one of the most iconic and beautiful racing yachts of all time.

The J Class Association has a wealth of information about the history of the J Class Yachts including the J Class Endeavour.

Really pleased with the model and the outstanding service. Would highly recommend.

Just want to let you know that the model arrived today w/o any issues or damages. Thanks for the very good handling of my order and the good packaging.

Great service throughout & extremely well packed for shipping. A beautiful designed & superbly made model of this class of yacht with attention to detail throughout.

Very nice and competent pre-sales contact. Ship model is beautiful, exactly as on photos. Price/quality ratio very good and I have looked at hundreds of similar sailing yacht model offers. Model arrived 4 days early and in perfect condition. Packaging could resist a nuclear warhead. Almost needed a chainsaw to unpack ;).

The model arrived exactly as scheduled. It was extremely well packed,so arrived in perfect condition. I unpacked it very carefully and it looks beautiful .

Arrived very well packed indeed. First class customer service, very helpful. Purchased as a gift, recipient was delighted.

The model arrived very quickly and has exceeded our expectations. My son is a sailor and has sailed near the actual Endeavour and is very impressed on the detail in the model you have done.

This beautiful model arrived well packed and on time.

We bought ship as a present for our father and it was absolutely perfect! Excellent service - I highly recommend.

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Ship plans – yacht endeavour – j class – americas cup – 1:80.

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The Schooner Endeavour staked a claim on the America?s Cup, winning the first two races. The third regatta was bound to be the most exciting. Fate played an unkind trick to Sir Thomas Sopwith, who failed and thus couldn?t win the America?s Cup. Model Kit includes plank-on-bulkhead construction; laser cutted wooden deck and planking; brass and wooden fittings; photo etched brass details; cloth sails; plans and detailed instructions.

Amati ship model plans are faithful interpretations of the original vessel. Amati ship model plans and instructions are always excellent and easily followed. Amati has integrated computer design and the latest materials to produce high quality ship model plans.

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