diy decorative sailboat

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Crafts by Amanda

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DIY Concrete and Driftwood Sailboat

Author by Jane and Sonja on July 22, 2019 Updated on December 6, 2020

While you won’t want to try floating it, this DIY concrete and driftwood sailboat is a breezy nautical or coastal decor idea for your home or cottage. It would look great in the same room displaying this DIY Driftwood Crab Wall Art !

Hello! Sonja from Sustain My Craft Habit here. Ever since I made these DIY stepping stones with the kids this summer, the urge to make stuff with concrete has hit. There’s just something so gratifying about mixing fluid ingredients like sand, cement, and water together to make something solid, and well… concrete!

We’ve been making over our small family cottage over the past few months. We decided that a concrete and driftwood sailboat would be the perfect nautical touch to our beach-themed bedrooms .

We love the irony of the base being the least likely thing on Earth to float: concrete! In the end, the industrial hard concrete boat with the rustic natural driftwood mast make the perfect combination.

Check out the video for making these adorable driftwood sailboats below!

Supplies Needed for these Sailboats

• boat-shaped mold (e.g. a beach toy)
• straight driftwood piece, about 12” long
• vegetable oil
• sand for concrete
• Portland cement
• container with water
• container for mixing
• measuring cup
• spoons for scooping ingredients and for mixing
• drill and small drill bit
• 12”x12” nautical themed scrapbook paper
• natural twine
• pencil, ruler
• scissors, glue

Instructions for Making a DIY Concrete and Driftwood Sailboat

Making the concrete boat.

• Start to make your DIY concrete and driftwood sailboat by generously coating your boat mold with a release agent such as vegetable oil.

• Use a measuring cup to measure equal amounts of sand and cement (two cups of each in this case). Thoroughly blend them together.
• The amount of water that you need to add to the mixture will depend on the moisture level of the sand to begin with. Start by adding a half part (e.g. 1 cup) of water to the cement mixture. It’s better to start with less water and then add more if needed. You’re aiming for a thick dough-like consistency.

• My mixture felt quite thin, so I added a bit more each of the sand and cement to the mixture.
• Either pour or scoop your concrete mixture in your mold. Don’t overfill.

• Gently tap the mold on the table top to level the concrete and help move air bubbles to the surface.

• Place the filled boat mold on a level surface and let sit for at least one hour before inserting the driftwood mast.

Note: If the concrete appears to be drying too quickly (e.g. hot weather), consider spraying the surface with water at the beginning to keep it from cracking. Cement cures not dries and needs to stay moist to cure properly.

Adding the Sailboat Mast and Eyelets

• Once the concrete has firmed up a bit, try inserting the driftwood mast, about 1/3 of the way from the front of the boat. It should be able to stand up on its own. If not, wait another hour and try to insert the driftwood again. Jiggle the boat to help the cement settle around the driftwood.
• Insert a small eyelet close to the back of the boat before the concrete sets completely. Let the concrete boat completely cure 24-48 hours.

• Remove concrete from mold.

• Gently sand all edges.

• Drill two small eyelet holes in the driftwood mast: 1” from the top and 1” from the surface of the concrete boat. Ensure that the holes are facing towards the back of the boat.

• Screw eyelets into each of the drilled pilot holes.

Mounting the Sail

• Measure the distances between the three eyelets to determine how the sail needs to be cut. Add an extra 1” to the length and width of the triangle.

• Use those measures to mark and then cut a triangular shaped sail from the nautical scrap book paper.

• Use the cut sail as a template to cut a second sail. Ensure that the pattern on the print is in the same direction for both pieces of paper. (Note: this step isn’t necessary if you use 2-sided scrapbook paper).

• Using a double sided tape, apply tape to back side of one cut triangle. Stick the two wrong sides together and trim away any uneven edges.

• Hold the cut triangle up to your sailboat to roughly mark the placement of the holes. Alternatively, you can measure the distance between the eyelets (length and width) and mark them onto the triangle cut paper.  Using a hole punch, insert your cut paper and punch one hole over top of your markings.

• Begin attaching the sail to the boat by aligning the hole punches on the paper with the eyelets on the boat. Loosely tie them together using a pieces of cut twine.

• There you go! A beautiful nautical driftwood sailboat that’s perfect for your coastal decorating. We think this piece would be great for the cottage or home, especially in a beach-themed nursery or bedroom. It would also make a great gift idea for any sailboat lover!

Where would you put your DIY concrete and driftwood sailboat? Looking for more nautical and beach themed home decor? Make sure to check out the projects below!

• DIY Driftwood Signs
• Clay Pot Lighthouse
• Driftwood Art with Starfish
• Cottage Style Beach Frames
• Coastal Branch Tree for Christmas
• Weathered Beach Flag

• boat-shaped mold e.g. a beach toy
• straight driftwood piece about 12” long
• 3 eyelets
• 12 ”x12” nautical themed scrapbook paper
• pencil ruler
• scissors glue

Instructions

• Use a measuring cup to measure equal amounts of sand and cement (two cups of each in this case). Thoroughly blend them together.
• Place the filled boat mold on a level surface and let for at least one hour before inserting the driftwood mast.
• Note: If the concrete appears to be drying too quickly (e.g. hot weather), consider spraying the surface with water at the beginning to keep it from cracking. Cement cures, not dry. And needs to stay moist to cure properly.
• Remove concrete from the mold.
• Use those measures to mark and then cut a triangular shaped sail from the nautical scrapbook paper.
• Using a double sided piece of tape, apply tape to back side of one cut triangle. Stick the two wrong sides together and trim away any uneven edges.
• Hold the cut triangle up to your sailboat to roughly mark the placement of the holes. Alternatively, you can measure the distance between the eyelets (length and width) and mark them onto the triangle cut paper. Using a hole punch, insert your cut paper and punch one hole over top of your markings.
• Begin attaching the sail to the boat by aligning the hole punches on the paper with the eyelets on the boat. Loosely tie them together using a piece of cut twine.

This post originally appeared here on Oct 27, 2017.

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October 28, 2017 at 2:40 am

you sisters are genius….. this is something you can out anywhere… and so easy to make one too…

loved your craftiness… :)

Jane and Sonja says

November 21, 2017 at 1:18 pm

Thank you so much Jam! We really appreciate your kindness.

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DIY Rustic Sailboat

Published by Pam Kessler | 306 words. · About 2 minutes to read this article. - 48 Comments

I made a sailboat last week.

Out of a branch and a twig,

part of my vintage ticking fabric,

and a couple of eyelet screws.

Quick and easy and sort of cute, if I may say so myself!

In a nutshell:

• I sawed a dead branch from our brush pile into a section roughly 16" long. If there's one thing I have an abundance of around here, it's dead tree branches
• I cut a twig to about 17" long
• Drilled a hole in the middle of the larger branch section
• Hot glued the twig into the hole
• Cut my fabric into a scalene triangle (I'll save you from running to find your geometry books - it's three different sized sides)
• Screwed the 2 eyelet screws into each end of the branch
• Sewed one end of the the triangles onto the eyelet screws
• Sewed the opposite bottom of the triangles onto the mast (aka twig in the middle)
• Sewed the top of the triangles to the top of the twig
• Then I cut out a double sided triangle to use as a top flag and hot glued it to the top

Took about 15 minutes. Most of the time was me trying to get the stupid needle threaded.

I really need to get some new eyes. Or wear my glasses.

Now, I'm a long way from the beach, so I used tree branches instead of driftwood, but I think it turned out OK.

You gotta work with what you've got! And here in the Midwest, we've got branches.

You can see how I've used my sailboat in different areas of my home over the years:

A Happy Little Sunflower Vignette Summer Home Tour Eclectic Style Easy American Flag Craft

And you can see lots and lots of other Quick And Easy DIY & Craft Projects HERE .

Reader Interactions

July 11, 2021 at 6:03 pm

What a beautiful and easy idea.Thank you so much!

June 30, 2017 at 11:31 pm

I'm going to make one for my yard from a three foot piece of driftwood I found . It's going to look great in my garden .

April 29, 2017 at 9:32 am

Love this idea, I've been searching for driftwood, but I have a lot of white birch that I think would work using your idea. Thanks for sharing!!! 🙂

June 16, 2016 at 5:35 pm

Thank you so much for this idea! I made one for my dad for Father's Day!!

https://goo.gl/photos/bk5SsKomMDUVfaV79

June 18, 2016 at 7:57 pm

That is so cute!!! I bet he'll love it!

May 15, 2016 at 12:13 pm

Making this for a baby shower! Too cute?

May 03, 2016 at 9:54 am

And i was trying to figure out how to decorate my balcony!!!! Thanks a lot!!!It is a great idea!!

February 15, 2016 at 1:49 pm

Pam, I just had to tell you that I've made about a half dozen of these - different sizes for myself to sail in my regatta (a vignette on my entertainment center) and my granddaughter wanted one, then my DIL wanted one. So, it has been a very successful, popular craft for me. I kept mine so I can float it again when I do my "beach" or summer vignette.

June 27, 2015 at 9:16 am

It's perfect for those of us living on a lake~! Love it.

June 15, 2015 at 6:09 pm

I love the twiggy sailboat - rustic and easy to make, but a summer inspiration! Thanks for sharing! I'm going to get a small branch and start making one!

June 15, 2015 at 8:50 pm

Thanks, Barbara. I'm all about quick and easy when it comes to crafts. If it takes me more than one sitting to finish it I lose interest 🙂

May 17, 2015 at 7:11 pm

I love this, it's so simple and easy to make! Great job!

Sarah Thornington

February 23, 2015 at 4:46 pm

Oh how I love this! Being a portrait photographer on the beach I have just found my new favorite prop for the summer! All I need now is some sunshine and some fun children! Thank you!!!

February 27, 2015 at 9:39 am

Posted my silly version of your gorgeous boat on my blog. Linked back to your directions. Thank you again!!!

February 28, 2015 at 6:47 pm

Thanks! I'll come over and check it out!

Chiwei @ One Dog Woof

August 22, 2014 at 11:39 am

LOVE LOVE LOVE this!! I love the look and the cheap factor too. Not the "looking cheap", but the "cheap to put together" factor :-). Saw it on Hometalk 🙂

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DIY Driftwood Sailboats

. I’ve been wanting to make driftwood sailboats for quite some time and finally I did it this week …  three of them. This craft project has been formulating in my mind for awhile.  I’ve combined bits and pieces of ideas from other driftwood sailboats I’ve seen in magazines, Pinterest, and at some retail stores to make these.  The two steps during the process that took the most time and tested my patience were working with tiny eyelets and eyelet screws.  Do not skip these steps because they gave the sailboats a clean finish.  Last thing, there will be no sewing involve in this project.

The driftwood I used were collected during our recent family trip to the beach at Seabrook, Washington, click here to read more.

1.    fabric pieces, slightly heavy weight fabric will hold its shape best for the sails 2.    twine 3.    wood glue 4.    stop fabric fraying liquid 5.    glue gun & glue sticks 6.    paper to make sail patterns 7.    eyelet screws, 15/32″ 8.    eyelet tools & 1/8″ eyelets 9.    scissors 10.  two driftwood pieces for the boat and a mast

Instructions

step 1.   Drill a hole in the center of the driftwood large enough to accommodate a long stick for the mast.  Squeeze wood glue into the hole and push the stick in it and let dry.

Step 2.    Use a pencil to draw the pattern on paper for the two sails (triangle shape with a right angle – see image below).  Pin the pattern onto the fabric and cut it out.  Apply fabric fraying liquid sparingly along the fabric edges to prevent it from fraying over time.

Step 3.   Add eyelets to the corners of the two fabric sails.  Cut a tiny slit close to the corner, push the back side of the eyelet through, turn the fabric over with the back of the eyelet facing up.  To secure the eyelet to the fabric, place the setter over the unfinished end of the eyelet and firmly strike the top of the setter with the hammer two to three times to spread it open.  Remove the setter and firmly strike the eyelet directly two to three times with the hammer to flatten the sides down around the fabric   {o ptional/not required:   use an eyelet finisher on the back of the eyelet to give it a smooth professional finish } .

The instructions to apply eyelets will vary depending on the tools used.  The end result will be similar and it will also help to prevent the fabric from tearing and to keep it’s shape.

The two finished sails with eyelets attached to the corners.

Step 4.   Attach sails to the mast.  Near the top of the wooden stick, leaving enough room to glue a flag on later, screw the eyelet screw into the wood {use a pair of pliers to screw it into the wood if needed} .  Cut a piece of twine about 3-4 inches long, string it through the eyelet on the large sail and the eyelet screw, tie a knot to secure them together.  Repeat the process for the second eyelet screw at the bottom of the wooden stick and the third eyelet screw on the large driftwood near the end.

Attach the other smaller sail to the opposite side of the wooden stick slightly lower down from the other sail { see image below }.  Snip off all the extra loose twine from the knots, leaving about a quarter of an inch, dab a little bit of fabric fraying liquid to the ends of twine to prevent unraveling.

The finished sails should spread out nicely across the driftwood.

Step 5.   Add decorative flag banner.  Cut 5-7 little triangle flag pieces.  Cut twine long enough to go  from the top of the mast down to the eyelet screw at the end of the large driftwood piece.  Be sure to add about two to four inches of extra twine.

On a flat surface, lay a fabric triangle piece down and line twine along the top edge of the flag, apply hot glue, and roll the top edge of the fabric around twine and hot glue to secure together. Repeat the steps with the rest of the flag banner pieces.

Step 6.  Attach the flag banner to the sailboat.  Thread one end of the flag banner through the top eyelet screw on the mast and make a simple knot on the twine to keep it from slipping out of the eyelet screw hole.  Thread the other end through the eyelet screw on the driftwood and make a simple knot on the twine to secure it in place.

Driftwood sailboat #1 . Step 7.  Cut a triangle piece of fabric for the flag and attach it to the top of the mast with hot glue.

Driftwood sailboat #2

Driftwood sailboat #3

 I couldn’t  decide which one I like the most.

 Hannah was assisting me.

A great summer craft project!

posted by Kay

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2014 , crafts , diy , driftwood sailboat

26 Responses to DIY Driftwood Sailboats

Kay, These turned out great, and your tutorial is excellent. Now the question is where to find driftwood around here. Hmmmm….

I like the light blue and white striped sail the most.

That was the first sailboat I made. The striped fabric I used for the sail came from a pair of pants 🙂

Judith, contact me with a ship to address, I would love to send you some of the extra driftwood I have left.

Kay, I adore your sailboats!!! They are cute and so clean and fresh looking and it’s such a fun idea to use driftwood. We have a sailboat and spend our summers sailing so I’m definitely going to make one {or more} of these. Thanks for the fun idea.

I’m glad you like this craft project Lori. There will be lots of driftwood waiting for you here in the Puget Sound area if you decide to come back and to do a little more sailing this summer.

We’ll be sailing the San Juans next month so I’ll definitely pick up a bag full of driftwood for this fun project.

I love these! I grew up on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington, and now that I’m landlocked in Chattanooga, TN and trying to pull off a costal living room, I really miss the ready availability of natural elements we had access to! Lovely work!

Nice to meet you April and glad you had a few minutes to visit and share with us. We try as a family to make a trip out to the Pacific coast once a year, Seabrook Wa. We drove to Forks WA once, that was a loooong drive. I hope your coastal living room is coming along nicely.

Love your little sailboats. Am making my first one now from driftwood I collected at Ocean Shores and Ruby Beach … 🙂

The Northwest beaches have such a nice supply of driftwood to choose from. I hope you had fun making the sailboat Karen.

You have inspired me! Love these boats. I live by Lake Ontario in NY so driftwood is abundant. Off to the lake…..

Hi there! I I’m so in love of these sailboat what type of fabric did you used or any suggestions? Thank you!!

Hi Carmen The fabrics I used were made of cotton with a little bit of weight to them-cotton canvas. The soft blue ticking fabric came from a pair of pants I purchased at the Gap a few years ago in hopes that I might use the fabric to make something.

I hope you have fun making these sailboats!

It’s so beautiful!!! I featured these driftwood sailboats here http://esikfloresik.blogspot.com/2016/08/beach-please-inspiration-board.html xoxo

Love these live in Littlehampton west Sussex united kingdom trying to make some little boats you have inspired me so more beautiful than shop ones

Love them, have not tried them yet but wanted to thank you for sharing instructions.

Hey I’m writing from Pakistan. I loved the whole tutorial and your work is amazing I was wondering if you can give another tutorial on how to make driftwood tiny houses! How do you shape drift wood into fine shapes I have always wondered I would really appreciate your response. Waiting for it! Love, Khizra

I love these! I was wondering if these would float? I live with a lake in my back yard. During the winter I thought it would be nice to see the sailboats floating next to our dock. I thought I would attach a sailboat to a fishing line attached to a large rock but thought it might flip over. Has anyone tried floating them?

Love these! Thank you for sharing!!

I love these sailboats! Would love it if you sold them

Loved the sailboats am going to make some for my nieces babies first birthday. Where is the best place to purchase the driftwood

Piękne, piękne, piękne … 🙂 Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful … 🙂

I love your sailboats. I live in the CA desert 6 months out of the year so the wood I collect for my sailboats is a bit more gnarled but still beautiful. Thank you for sharing.

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

[…]  Driftwood Sailboats ~ Kay at White Gunpowder. I know I’m partial to sailboats but are these driftwood sailboats […]

[…] ♥ DIY Driftwood Sailboat […]

[…] helped me to develop my ideas. The favourite thing I made was the driftwood boats – I adapted a guide I found on Pinterest. I used some of Ian’s old shirts and we collected a lot of driftwood from Rest Bay. They’re not […]

[…] Vía […]

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DIY Modern Decorative Sailboat

When we were in San Francisco over Memorial Day Weekend with Sara and family, I was in awe of all the gorgeous sailboats in the bay over the weekend. The shapes of the sails were so stunning. When I got home, I realized I had some random pieces of balsa wood to use and a triangle was just staring me in the face. That’s simply where I got the idea for this DIY modern decorative sailboat! The girls and I collected some rocks outside that would make good bottoms for these boats. I played around with just the balsa wood sails and the raw rocks, but soon realized that the balsa wood would really pop against the white, and it gave it the real modern feel I was going for.

We made them in all different sizes, too. So when you pick your rocks, go for really big ones, like the picture above to be a centerpiece on a table or on a shelf or mantle. Little rocks make very sweet little sailboats that would be adorable in a kid’s room, or even as place card holders.

This project is also a kid-friendly craft. We’re going to make some more and let Calla paint her own designs on the sails. It’s going to make a really cute Father’s Day gift! Follow along on Instagram to see the results. And don’t forget to download our new Father’s Day free questionnaire for the kids to fill out.

Read more the full tutorial for these DIY Modern Decorative Sailboats…

Supplies: balsa wood sheet , exacto knife, ruler, pencil, white acrylic paint, hot glue gun or E6000 glue .

• Paint entire rock white with two coats of white acrylic craft paint. Let dry.
• Using a ruler as your line guide, cut large and small triangle with exacto knife.
• Glue the bottoms of triangle sails to top of rock.
• Hold sail on rock to set the glue.

photos by Melissa Fenlon. all rights reserved.

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Thanks so much, Marlene. That means a lot 🙂

So simple but so effective, I think this would look great in a little boys bedroom or the bathroom.

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Home > Blog > DIY Tutorials > Crafts > DIY Driftwood Sailboat Decor

DIY Driftwood Sailboat Decor

So today’s craft isn’t anything new, I am sure you have seen driftwood sail boats before. I know I have. I have wanted one for some time now, but since I am too cheap to buy one and we don’t live near the ocean to find driftwood, I just gave up on having one. Until this last weekend…

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We are super lucky to live really close to the Rocky Mountains. Seriously, we are right at the base of them. It takes about 15 minutes to drive into Big Cottonwood canyon where we can be enjoying a mountain adventure.

It’s a little longer to some of the other canyons around, but not much. On Sunday we went into the Uinta Mountains and it took us 1 1/5 hours to make it to the summit and we were there and back in a day and less than half a tank of gas. How’s that for an adventure?

But we are far from the beach where you find this beautiful driftwood for all your favorite coastal decor, or so I thought. As we were playing in the mountains this last week, we were splashing in some mountain streams with the kids and there were beautiful pieces of driftwood all around.

Seriously, the sticks from all the mountain trees were tumbling and being worn by the streams as they made their way down the mountains. It was just as beautiful as the ocean driftwood. Maybe a little different since it was not as bleached out as the stuff in the ocean, but still beautiful.

I found a couple fantastic sticks to do some fun things with. But when I came across this beauty, it was just screaming at me to make it into a DIY driftwood sailboat decor. So I did!

I started with my beautiful mountain driftwood. It will not stand on it’s own, and I don’t want to make sure it is always leaning against something to stay up, so I decided to mount it to a small piece of scrap wood. I happened to have a 1 1/2″ wide x 1/4″ thick piece left over from trimming out the fireplace so I used it. If you don’t have a thin piece, a regular 3/4″ piece would work too.

Since I was using new wood, I decided to give it a coastal feel by doing a quick coat of white paint. I thinned the paint down just a little bit so it would be more of a white wash instead of a solid white. And since I am also using a dowel instead of a small piece of driftwood for my center post, I gave my 5/16″ dowel a coat of the white wash paint while I was at it.

After that was dry, I used my trusty nail gun (seriously, I love having a battery powered nail gun so I don’t have to deal with getting out a compressor every time I want to do a little project) to attach my driftwood to the board. I shot the nails in from the bottom so they were completely hidden.

Then I drilled a hole using a 5/16″ bit (the same size as my dowel) into the top center of my driftwood I thought I would need some wood glue to secure the dowel, but when I put it in to check it out, it wouldn’t move at all! It was so stuck, it was a good thing I was happy with it.

Now it was time for sails. I measured how tall my dowel ended up being (about 15″) and decided I wanted my sails 14″ tall. Then I decided the back sail would be 10″ wide at the bottom and the front 8″. I used a really scientific method of holding the measuring tape next to the boat and saying “Yep, that’s where I want it!”.

I thought about using some more scraps of drop cloth (I have lots left over from my various drop cloth projects cause I love using the stuff), but I wanted more coastal and less rustic. Luckily, I also had some leftover white muslin from my dining room curtains and that would give me the soft, white, coastal feel I was going for!

I cut my sails so they were 1″ bigger than I wanted (so a triangle that was 15″ tall and 11″ wide on the 90 degree angle and one that was 15″ tall and 9″ wide).

Then I realized I really liked the raw edge that one of my sails had so I decided to give all my straight cuts a frayed raw edge by pulling out a few of the strands of thread.

The angled edge wouldn’t work with a raw edge like that so I did a quick rolled hem by pressing about 1/4″ hem (no need to be too precise) and then rolling that over to encase the raw edges and pressing again. Then I sewed all around the sail with a turquoise blue thread to give it some color (I do love a little pop of color).

I left the strings on the top and bottom of the straight side of the sails and used them to tie the sails to the dowel I had stuck into the driftwood. After I had tied the sails to the dowel, I secured them a little bit more with some hot glue (gotta love the hot glue!). And don’t mind my horrid nails and cuticles, apparently I really need a manicure.

The easiest way I found to secure the outer edge of the sail, my nail gun. I pulled the corner where I liked it and POW! One nail in the corner and it was done instantly.

Now it was time to put my new DIY driftwood sailboat decor on my mantle and smile. Finally I can stop seeing all the beautiful pieces out there and wishing I had one too. And even better, mine only cost us a trip to the mountains and a few scraps. Beautiful and free, even better!!!

And now my coastal mantle is starting to shape up. I still need a few more details, and a focal piece to add some height in the middle (I’m almost done with the DIY I have planned for this and it looks so pretty, stay tuned). Perfect for our summer decor.

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Monday 18th of July 2016

This is so cool! Such a great idea! Featuring you tomorrow night at Dream. Create. Inspire. Link!

Thank you so much Samantha! I love my little sailboat, it's perfect for our nautical mantle :)

Wednesday 13th of July 2016

That is absolutely adorable and so creative! I love it. And I didn't even noticed the white board underneath until you mentioned it.

Thank you! I can't even see the board anymore, it just blends right into the mantle, but keeps my sailboat upright. I love little design things like that :)

Monday 11th of July 2016

This is so cute & creative! And I love that it's something you can make from found items :) Thanks for linking up with Merry Monday this week!

I love making decor from found items. Nothing is better than free ;)

Antonella | White House Crafts

I love this! It's so creative. Sailboats, the sea, nautical - it's all kind of my thing. Found your post through The Creative Gallery.

Thanks Antonella! I am all about sailboats, the beach and all things nautical too :)

Melanie - Party Suite @Bellenza

Friday 8th of July 2016

What a cool idea! It would be lovely as part of a centerpiece for a nautical party!

Yes it would Melanie! Now I need to have a party :)

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Sailboat Decor from a Weaving Shuttle

One year ago, I had gathered up the materials I’d need for this project. I had a couple of weaving shuttles and clear vision for transforming them into decorative sailboats. But right as I was getting started, an email appeared in my inbox.

It was from a publisher- my book deal had arrived! So, everything I was working on was cast aside and this project went back in the cupboard for another year.

Fast forward to this summer and I finally had a chance to put my idea to work.

As you may recall, I have a particular fondness for upcycling bits and pieces from old textile mills . And while there are lots of sailboat decor ideas out there, most of them use driftwood or scrap wood.

But a weaving shuttle seemed even more perfect to me! So, it’s high time I see if I could recreate the vision in my head.

This post contains affiliate links for your crafting convenience. As an Amazon Affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases. All blue, bold, and underlined text is a clickable link, either to a product or to a related post.

Transforming a Weaving Shuttle into Sailboat Decor

The most “complicated” part of my idea would be building a mast. But, really, all I needed was a couple of wooden dowels- a larger square one and a narrow round one.

First, I measured and cut the square dowel into blocks (think like the game Jenga) that fit inside each weaving shuttle.

These would act as a base for the masts to fit into. Which meant I then needed to drill large holes straight down into the blocks.

To do so, we used a drill guide to keep things straight and even.

Once the holes were drilled into the blocks, I inserted the round dowel and cut it to an appropriate mast length.

Not very complicated at all, really!

Next, I sanded all the raw edges down and gathered some different wood stains.

I needed to stain the masts to match their respective loom shuttles. Thankfully, I have plenty of small cans of stain on hand!

My idea for decorative sailboats was coming together quite swimmingly!

Sails for Decorative Sailboats

After waiting 24 hours for the wood stain to thoroughly set, I gathered up some duck cloth (or canvas) and ticking fabric to make the sails.

I also needed to add a couple of teeny tiny eye screws to the tips of each weaving shuttle. These would be used for rigging the sails, so to speak.

To make my life easier, I used a pin vise to drill teeny tiny pilot holes for the eye screws.

You may recall that I used a pin vise once before for this unusual jewelry project …

Anyway, then I used scrap paper to roughly trace out the sails for my decorative sailboats. I then cut out the duck cloth and/or ticking fabric based on the paper patterns.

I ironed the sails and did my best to remove lint and debris. Then, I threaded a needle with craft thread to begin rigging up the sails!

I chose craft thread because it’s thicker and more durable than all-purpose thread. I thought it might replicate the look of sailboat rigging line, as well.

Either way, I rigged the sails to my decorative sailboats at the top and bottom of the masts, as well as to the eye screws.

And just like that, I had transformed the weaving shuttles into sailboat decor that was perfect for summer!

I mean, aren’t they just delightful? And unlike model sailboats that have a true hull underneath, the weaving shuttles are flat so you don’t need a stand to prop them up!

I’m just so tickled by how cute they are! And I’m doubly glad that I remembered to make them this year after being pushed aside last year for the almighty book!

If you enjoyed this upcycling idea for coastal or nautical decor, then you may also be interested in these upcycled nautical bottle ideas, as well !

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Sarah Ramberg

Sarah Ramberg is the owner of Sadie Seasongoods, a website that celebrates all things secondhand. From upcycling ideas and thrifted decor to vintage-centric travel itineraries, Sadie Seasongoods is a one-stop shop for anyone who loves thrifting and approachable repurposing ideas. Sarah is also the author of “Crafting with Flannel” and has been featured in numerous media outlets and magazines.

• Easy and Upcycled Fall Home Decor
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Such a cute idea!

Thank you, Rose!

Soooo cute! Great vision!

Thank you so very much, Susan!

Your creative vision is outstanding. Love the sailboats.

You are so kind, Rita, thank you!

Great Job. I love them.

Thank you so very much!

very nice!!!!!

Thanks, Scotty!

What a cool idea, really love the simplicity of the design…would work in any style from rustic to contemporary! Sandi

Totally!! Thank you so much!

I love getting your emails. You are so talented. Love the sail boats. My son and grandson lives in Easley, SC Thank you for your posts, Lyn

Thank you, Lynda! Easley was very close to where we just moved from (Greenville, SC). We were there for 11 years…but excited to get to know Charlotte now!

so clever, Sadie! you have such creative ideas and you execute them so well.

Thank you, Dodie!! I appreciate your kind words more than you know!

These are so cute!!!!

Thank you so much, Nancy!

Sarah, Your brilliance is showing–yet again. However, may I also say, “Bad blogger!” You didn’t put a link to your book that I could easily find! I do really love your blog. Thanks for sharing your cute sailboats.

That’s because it’s not out yet, LOL! It was supposed to be released in September, but the publisher pushed back many of their summer and fall titles due to world events. So it will be released and available to buy in February! Trust me, when it’s on the shelves, you will get sick of me talking about it, hahahaha!

Maine is another place where there were lots of mills so I see shuttles quite frequently! The only thing I would add is a little red pennant at the top of the mast–unless it was Halloween when it would be a skull and crossbones! Some angel hair for “mist on the water”. I love your “beach glass” bottle project–which I did to votive candle holders with twine and charms–adorable. Love a nautical/beachy theme–any time of year!

Really cute! Very creative, can’t wait for the book. Are you all moved into your new place now?

Thank you so much, Mary- it’s going to be hard to wait until February for the book to be released. But I can’t really blame the publisher for delaying many of their titles right now!

Absolutely charming!!!!!How are you enjoying Charlotte?Will be looking forward to September for the book.Take care.

Ahhh, you must have missed this blog post where I talked about the publisher delaying a bunch of titles: https://www.sadieseasongoods.com/diy-greeting-cards/ . So we have a bit of a wait, yet. But thank you- and we are loving Charlotte!!

Very cute and clever, Sarah! Looking forward to your book.

Thank you!! I’ve been approving and revising the layout last week and this, so it’s starting to feel VERY VERY REAL now!!

Such a cute idea! I love sail boats

Thanks, Maria!

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Liz Marie Blog

in LizMarieBlog · DIY · Summer Decor & Design

DIY Stick & Fabric Sailboat Décor

I did the easiest DIY project today and I had to share it with you guys in case you were looking for a simple creative moment of your own, some new FREE cozy cottage summer décor, or even a craft time for you and the kids. It’s a DIY easy stick & fabric scrap sailboat that I created for free using items that I already had on hand and sticks from our yard. Here is how it turned out.

DIY Stick & Fabric Scrap Sailboat:

You will need:.

• a large stick for the hull & a skinny stick for the mast
• fabric scraps for the sails
• optional: a drill to put a hole in the large branch for the mast to stick in to

Directions:

• Create a tiny hole in the center of the larger stick to stick the end of the smaller stick into to create the mast. Then seal that with hot glue.
• Lay the hull and mast together on a piece of fabric to see how big the triangles of fabric should be in terms of height and width. (This will give you a rough estimate of where to cut you can trace out those measurements.)
• Then cut two scalene triangles for the two sails and attach them with hot glue to the mast and hull.

That’s it! It’s that easy!

I love the cozy cottage vibes that sailboats give and this little rustic one with the fabric scraps and natural items is the ultimate cozy sailboat with all of it’s quirky texture. You can see a video of me making this sailboat [HERE] if you want more visuals. I have been having a lot of fun with sailboats in our décor and you can see a summer mantel with a sailboat I created this week [HERE]. I hope you have fun making one of these this summer & of course I would love to see it if you do! Thank you for stopping by the blog today and every single day to see what we are up to and you can see more summer décor & inspo [HERE].

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Blissful and creative high seas DIY sailboat decor

Have you tossed a diy project in the trash before finishing  your thought is, “it’s ugly”  or, “that’s not what i was expecting it to look”  or worse, “what will friends think of this thing”.

These thoughts cross my mind more than I want to admit.  But this time I persevered and I’m glad it did.  I hope you think so too.

DIY Sailboat Decor

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Goofy side story

Many years ago I made and sold home decor items.  To my surprise, my creations sold well.  I created a lighthouse from an old spindle.  Yes, I’ve been obsessed with spindles for years.  Mike is always supportive but he scratched his head over the lighthouse.  He didn’t think it would sell.  I took the lighthouse to a local shop.  Each week my job became to dust the lighthouse and find another way to display it proudly.  This continued for several months.  Then one day I walked in and the lighthouse was gone.  I often wondered if Mike brought the lighthouse.

I’m worried this project is a lighthouse.

The candle holder

I bought this wall candle holder for a dollar at a local thrift store. Only to toss it in my I’ll do something with it someday pile. While looking for something else a lightbulb went off. I have the perfect project idea.

Scrap Wood for Shiplap

Next, I dug through the scrap wood pile. Finding several pieces of different widths. I cut the pieces to be different lengths too. A small piece was cut into a triangle.

Then using the table sander I rounded the end to an arch.

Plus rounded the edges all around the boards.

Then I used my favorite wood glue and made a sailboat shape. The different widths give a shiplap-look to the boat.

Aging and Painting the Sailboat

Next, I used tea and vinegar to aged the wood.

At the point, I looked at the wired boat shape and almost tossed it in the trash.

Do I see this thing to the end or toss it?  I wasn’t sure but decided paint would help.

Before painting, I used dark wax {my homemade dark wax } as a resist to give the boat age and a shiplap deck. Using a small artist brush I made lines on the deck with dark wax.  You can see I predrilled a hole for the mast

Now for the paint.  I used mud paint in Manor white.  I love the color.  It’s like a pure white that has been bleached by the sun.

I painted the boat with a thick layer of paint and placed it outside in the hot AZ sun. Know what it did?

It turned a chippy paint finish in some areas. This happened in thick areas where the top of the paint dried faster than the paint underneath. It’s a fun thing about mud paint.

Anyway, I grabbed a piece of sandpaper and sanded the deck to reveal the shiplap planks. Also sanded the edges of the boards to enhance the shiplap-look.

I drilled holes in the bottom of the boat….yikes it’s gonna sink! Anyway. The holes are for the base. A dollop of glue holds the sailboat on the base and another dollop holds the spindle mast.

Note: I love then vintage farmhouse look of wood thrift store items with a basic wood finish that has been sanded. It looks sun bleached in areas and darker in other areas.

The Sail and Flags

For the sail, I cut a triangle piece of drop cloth. Then cut it in half.  I frayed the edges.  Then added metal white eyelets to the corners.   The spindle mast holds the sail with small nails.  I used the threads to tie the sail to the mast. I was going to use small eye hooks for the sail, but I didn’t have any.

Next, I wanted a banner of small flags.  I cut four rectangles from the drop cloth and pulled more threads.

I folded the rectangles and cut diamond shapes.

Then, I used a pencil to draw lines on a couple of the flags.  Then used craft glue to hold them on the threads.

As I’m hoisting the sail and flags I’m starting to smile. Then I giggle. Now, I’m laughing out loud. I like my little sailboat.

I like my little sailboat.

Displaying the sailboat decor

I gathered seashells and added a chalkboard to the mantel to help show the sailboat against the white walls.  Rope, a spool of twine, an ampersand, and other favorite items that fit the colors finish the mantel.

I’m still laughing.

It’s the morning of a new day and the sailboat still makes me laugh.

You can see the swimsuit chalkboard displayed on the mantel with other nautical decor projects here.

I had to share this photo from a reader who created a sailboat using the steps above…and her’s came out even better!  This is why I love DIY!  😀

Let me know in comments below, is mine a lighthouse??

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Hi, This is a nice project that can be turn for a boy bedroom. Thank you for your good idea!

Awe, thank you Sylvie! It would be perfect for a boy’s room.

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Salvaged Living

Where Faith & Creativity Collide

DIY Projects

Easy DIY Sailboat Decor for Summer

I don’t know what it is but I’m feeling all of the beachy, nautical, summer vibes this year! And there’s nothing more beautiful than a good ole sailboat!! While I can’t tell you how to build a REAL sailboat for Summer (although I wish), I can tell you how to build easy DIY sailboat decor for Summer… and that’s almost as good, right???

what you’ll need

• cardboard 
• drop cloth 
• wooden skewer
• scissors 
• paint 

how to make easy diy sailboat decor for summer

• To give these a bit more stiffness and shape, you’re going to paint mod podge all over them.  

• Then, as you can see above, I used a sponge brush to paint it brown. To give it more of a “wooden” feel, I took an off-white paint lightly on a sponge brush and ran it across the cardboard, going left to right only, not up and down! It makes the boat appear more wooden than if it was just a solid brown! 
• After doing that, I used that same sponge brush with the same off-white color and made about an inch thick strip across the top. This is just a style preference and allowed me a spot to name my ship! 

• Then, as you can see above, I used hot glue to attach the end of the skewer to the back of the cardboard boat! 
• Lastly, just make sure to fluff up your sails and get them situated how you want them!

It’s a super easy project and pretty cute if you ask me!!

So there you have it, easy DIY sailboat decor for Summer!! Once you make yours, I’d love to hear what you name it!! Mine is named after my sweet pup! 

If you want to see more cardboard projects like this one, click HERE! 

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45+ Nifty DIY Nautical Decor Ideas to Bring a Charming Atmosphere Indoors

DIY nautical décor doesn’t have to be difficult. Using beachy elements like driftwood, shells, and rope, there are many creative ways to bring the sea to your home. The color palette of these DIY items tends toward ocean blue, white, and beige. Popular motifs include anchors, starfish, and fishnets. Wrapping items in a rope is another hallmark of the nautical style.

45+ Exciting and Cheap DIY Nautical Decor Ideas to Help You Sail Away

Making your own fishnets looks difficult, but it’s much easier than you’d think. These fishnets cover everything from picture frames to lamp shades. They bring an authentic feeling of the sea to your home, even if you live nowhere near the beach.

One popular idea is to write cursive signs with glued rope. This is an easy and inexpensive DIY idea that anyone can pull off. Another novel way of bringing the nautical theme home is the use of authentic ship’s hardware. This hardware can hold a shelf or be used as a towel holder in the bathroom.

Try the 39 DIY nautical decor ideas below and bring a fresh, invigorating feeling of the sea home with you. Many of these ideas are so easy to make, you can have them done in one afternoon.

1. Rustic Driftwood Multiple Candle Holder

There are many ways you can make a candle holder, but not many realize just how far simple driftwood can go in creating a unique piece. With this project, you can build a holder that works well in a rustic-styled home. It’s a fun project that doesn’t take too long to complete, and the finish results will allow you to place multiple candles inside for a beautiful, well-lit décor piece.

2. Simple Rounded Rope Entryway Mat

Not everyone has the space to decorate an entryway, so an easy way to add some spark to the area is with a rug or a mat. There’s a nice jute rug trend going around, but rather than buy an expensive one, you can make a more affordable one that will look just as fashionable. All it takes is just a couple of supplies and some patience to create a simple, yet appealing, rounded rope mat that all your visitors will stop to admire whenever they come to your home.

3. Miniature Homemade Spindle Lighthouse Décor

If you’re looking for some coastal or boating themed decorating ideas, consider adding a homemade lighthouse to the room. It’s a good upcycle project too since this creation successfully uses the spindle leg of a table. To really sell the idea that this is a lighthouse, incorporate a battery-powered candle so there’s no risk in leaving it lit. This adds the perfect layer of realism that will capture anyone’s attention when they see it.

4. Elegant Scrap Fabric Garland Banner

With this project, you can turn your scraps of fabric into something beautiful. Consider choosing fabric pieces in a variety of design patterns and colors to create a more interesting garland. Although it looks good all on its own, it can especially work to enhance an old picture frame if you hang the fabric garland inside of it. This combination can serve as a distinctive decorative piece in any room.

5. Nautical Farmhouse Style Rope Charger

Jute rope décor is a wonderfully simplistic way to bring a sophisticated barnyard style to any table setting. Create a circle, square, or any shape you’d like your chargers to be. No matter which way you go with it, you’ll create an attractive homemade table décor that is perfect for a nautical-themed home or a fun party with friends and family.

6. Hanging Shell and Driftwood Wall Art

The walls are ripe areas for decorating, and whether you live on the beach or want to bring the beach back home with you, shells and driftwood are a great way to do it. There are numerous ways you can decorate with these items, but using them for wall art can instantly grab attention. It effortlessly incorporates nature into your home, and by picking various sized shells in different colors is a wonderful way to distinguish each beautiful shell.

7. Cool Beach Rope Drawer Handles

An interesting way for you to utilize ropes in your nautical décor is by creating some cool handles. When deciding what to attach these handles too, consider pairing them with basket drawers as this is a better way to stick with the overall theme. Plus, the rope tends to be long-lasting. So, you’re able to create something that is both durable and attractive to look at.

8. Crochet and Wood Napkin Rings

Decorating to suit a particular style doesn’t mean you have to create something larger than life. Sometimes the smallest of projects can make the most impact, and these napkin rings manage that rather well. If you’re familiar with crocheting, then this is can also be a quick project to complete. Add more of a natural aesthetic by tying your crochet creations with wooden rings, and these napkin rings can easily bring more life to your table setting.

9. Rope Bound Glass Candle Holder

If you need a more straightforward, uncomplicated nautical project, then you can take some décor you already have and merely enhance it using some rope. Simply grab a glass container that fits your candle, and rather than look at something plain, bind the container with rope. You’ll instantly have a candle holder that’s suitable for your home’s coastal theme.

10. Fun Sailing Theme Cork Coasters

Take a look at your table setup. If you think it needs a little help, then consider adding in some cute cork coasters that can fit with the nautical layout of your home. You can paint cool sailing symbols like an anchor on the coasters, and what’s even better about these is that they’re useful anywhere in the home where people drink from the dining room to the living room.

11. Upcycled Table Cloth Rug Design

Did you ever think a table cloth can be transformed into a trendy rug? It may seem like a lot of work, but it truly is a simple project that any hands-on person can make. A table cloth that features an elegant design and naval color patterns is also perfect to suit a home with a sailing theme. The end results give you a good-sized rug that can readily complement the flow of the rest of the decorations in your room.

12. Nautical Rope Painted Wood Picture Frame

If you have a few pictures of loved ones lying around, you can show them off in this beautiful theme that reminds you of happy times on the beach. Just take a wooden frame and give it a fresh paint job using lighter color tones. Giving it a weathered appearance afterward may also enhance the oceanic theme you’re aiming at. All that’s left is to use a rope to wrap some of the sides and hang it with, and you have yourself functional wall art. It can even make for the perfect gift for that sea-faring person in your life.

13. Rope Wrap Thrift Store Lamp Makeover

You may have a wonderful nautical-themed room with the perfect décor throughout, but remember not to leave out the lighting. If you can’t find a stylish lamp, you can always make one using any basic lamp from the store. You can breathe new life into a standard household item by using a bundle of rope. This is simple enough to be appealing without overwhelming the overall style of the room.

14. Reclaimed Pallet Wood Beach Style Headboard

There are many things you can do with reclaimed pallet wood. Consider focusing on your beach style bedroom by using this pallet wood to create a headboard for your bed. This natural look adds a perfect amount of rustic to transport you back out to the coast.

15. Anchor Style Paper Napkin Garland Banner

An affordable way to adorn your entryway is by using some napkins to create a fun garland banner. These napkins may work well for a party, but they can also serve as great decorations. With the anchor artwork, they easily accompany a naval-theme home. The rope or twine not only serves its purpose to connect everything, but it also cements the rural beach idea you’re going for in your décor.

16. Unique Crafted Clothespin Candle Holder

Who knew how useful clothespin could be if they aren’t used to hang clothes on? Well, you can take those small items and morph them into a candle holder instead. If they’re basic in color, then consider embarking on a paint job using maritime color themes like blue. It’s wrapped up using twine too, which further captures the style.

17. Frosted Color Beach Glass Jars

Beach glass is stunning in every way, but if you can’t collect any, then you can create it yourself with the glass jars you have at home. With a few coats of gloss frost paint, the beach comes to life in your home. It’s an easy project, and you can use these jars for almost anything whether it’s storage or a vase for flowers.

18. Sailing Theme Colorful Anchor Pillow

Combining multiple colors from blues to grays work well in bringing the sea-life theme home, and what better way to do this than with a throw pillow? The anchor outline, varied colors, and even the rope binding help add a pop of life to your couch.

19. Rope Tied Blue and White Striped Curtains

Blue and white stripes are commonly used in nautical decorations, but they’re no less exciting. Think about adding curtains with the color theme throughout your home or even just in one room. What can really help set it apart from the rest of your décor is by using thick rope as tiebacks.

20. Make a Sailboat with Wood and Fabric

21. Stencil an Anchor on a Pallet Sign

22. Paint Old Bottles For A Beachy Look

23. Wrap a Wreath in Burlap

24. Clever Idea for a Towel Holder

25. Make Your Own Clay Starfish to Hang

26. Rope Wrapped Spool Table for the Patio

27. Mason Jar Tea Light Holders with Nets

28. Name Sign with Rope Script

29. Sew This Adorable Fish Pillow

30. Upcycle Wine Bottles into Nautical Décor

31. Find the Beach with this Driftwood Sign

32. Hanging Driftwood Shelf with Nautical Hardware

34. DIY Nautical Decor Idea with Driftwood

35. Use Glass Bowls to Make Buoys

36. Cute Striped Fish Curtain Hold Backs

37. Upcycle an Old Mirror with Rope

38. Make Your Own Hanging Anchor Sign

39. Cute Nautical Graphics with Handy Clothespins

40. Shadow Box with Beautiful Scallop Shells

41. DIY Nautical Decor Idea for Rope Rugs

42. Rope Netted Vase Bottles and Decorations

43. Driftwood Photo and Memo Holder

44. A Little Step Stool with Nautical Flair

45. Net Wrapped Lamp Shade and Driftwood Mirror

46. Perfect Address Buoys for the Beach House

47. Chest of Drawers with Nautical Lettering

48. Tie Your Own Fishnets With Rope

49. Upcycle a Frame with Rope Hangers

50. Make Your Own Seashell Wind Chime

51. Candle Holder with Pretty Glass Gems

52. Framed Seashells with Caned Background

53. Starfish Shadow Boxes with Burlap

54. Wall Art with Cursive Rope

55. Hanging Bathroom Shelf with Nautical Rope

• Living Room
• Dining Room
• Laundry Room

How to Build a Wood Sailboat

Introduction: How to Build a Wood Sailboat

I've been wanting to combine my two favorite hobbies - woodworking and sailing for a long time, so I thought I'd build a boat. It's got classic lines and looks so dazzling in the sunshine that people constantly stop me at the boat ramp to ask me about it. There's something unbelievably rewarding about building something like this from scratch. This is definitely a boat that is much better built than bought . Here's how I did it.

The boat takes about 100 hours to build. I did it over 3 months, working a little bit just about every day and full days when my schedule permitted.

It will take about $1,000 in total to build if you buy everything at full retail cost (not including tools you might need to buy), but you can spread that across the length of the project. For example, you only need to buy one $30 sheet of plywood at a time, take it home, draw out the parts (loft) that fit on just that sheet and cut them out. That will take a couple of hours right there. Some boating supply stores (chandleries) might let you setup an account which might give you a discount if you tell them you're building a boat.

All of the skills needed to build a sailboat can be learned slowly, one step at a time. For example, if you've never fiber-glassed plywood before, just practice on a small piece first to get your confidence up. This was my first boat build, so I did a lot of learn as you go . Not only am I going to show you the right way to successfully build your own sailboat, but I'm going to share with you the mistakes I made along the way to hopefully save you from repeating them.

The end result will be a very attractive little 8 foot long pram, that is easily made out of 4x8 sheets of plywood that is light enough to put in the back of a small pickup truck or roll down to the local lake on the optional dolly. Anything longer would require you to either make a scarf joint (which is a bit tricky) or buy longer sheets of plywood (which is considerably more expensive).

What you will need:

Boat building plans

8 panels of 1/4" oak plywood 4'x8'

Pencil, Sharpie, ruler, tape measure, yard stick, etc.

Long flexible straight edge

Box of 1" brad nails

2 gallons of epoxy resin

1 gallon of epoxy hardener - SLOW

1 quart silica thickener

5 quarts wood flour thickener

1" masking tape

Japanese pull-saw

Table saw (helps, but optional)

Round-over router bit

Flush trim router bit

Palm/random orbital sander

220 sanding discs

Combination square

Drill bit set

Drill bit extension

Basic hand tools

Small diameter wire or zip ties

Wire cutter

12 C-clamps - 3"

Mixing cups, mixing sticks, rubber/nitrile gloves

16' x 60" of 6oz fiberglass cloth

2" plastic spreader

Gallon of waterproof glue

Glue roller

Silicone bronze screws

Stainless steel fasteners

Small blocks

Gudgeon & pintle - dinghy size

Patience - large

Elbow grease - large

For more detailed explanations on each step and more specific info/reviews on the materials and parts used, check out my boat build blog: www.Midnight-Maker.com

Step 1: Cutting Out the Parts...

First, you'll need boat building plans. I purchased some very nice ones from a popular boat building website because I had a specific style in mind to build, a "pram". It's a Norwegian design with lots of buoyancy in the bow and building a pointy boat is a little more difficult. There are a bunch of free boat building plans (search "dinghy") online. Also, I wanted my boat parts to fit in a standard (read cheap) 4'x8' sheet of plywood. It also had to be light enough for me to load/unload/move myself. This boat weighs in at about 70 pounds. When on the custom dolly I built, it's very easy to move from the parking lot to the lake.

Next, you'll need to draw out the parts of the boat full-sized onto the plywood (lofting). I actually did this step on hardboard/masonite because I wanted to make templates of all the parts in case I ever wanted to build another one.

This step requires you to be very meticulous. Carefully transfer the measurements (offsets). They may or may not look correct because it's very non-intuitive to look at curved boat parts that are laying flat. Some parts actually bend the opposite way you think they should. To make the curves, I nailed a bunch of 1" brads into the panel and used a long, flexible straight edge (yard stick, etc.) bent to follow the curve, then I traced the curve with pencil/Sharpie. Once I removed the brads, I had perfectly smooth curves. Keep in mind that with the side panels that are symmetrical to both sides of the boat, only draw out one version and cut two stacked sheets at a time. This ensures the boat will not be lop-sided. Make sure to immobilize the two sheets together with screws outside of the boat parts or use double-sided tape/clamps, etc. to keep the parts registered properly.

Using a Japanese pull-saw allows you to control the cuts very carefully and it can follow the graceful curves. They cut on the pull stroke which means they're very easy to control. Make sure you leave a bit of your cut line, meaning cut just outside the line. This allows you a bit of a safety margin and you can always sand to the line to sweeten it up. This is where the elbow grease really kicks in. It takes hours to cut out the hull panels by hand, but it's worth it. I tried cutting the first part out with the jigsaw and it wandered all over the place and quickly cut inside the line before I knew it. Also, a jig saw blade can lean to one side which could mean two panels might not be the exact same shape. Using hand tools is a classic way to do woodworking and is a very gratifying process. With hand tools, things happen slow enough for you to be in total control, whereas power tools can quickly do unexpected damage. With the understanding that you're building a classic boat, using hand tools wherever possible is part of the philosophy.

The plans I bought were in metric and called for 6mm (1/4") and 9mm (3/8") plywood, but I wanted to make everything out of 1/4" plywood so the thicker parts in the plans were glued together with two layers of 1/4" (so at 1/2" they were a bit thicker than designed). I actually liked this because it made the boat feel sturdier and of course it was cheaper that way. The trade-off was that the boat would be a bit heavier.

For any of the parts that need to be doubled-up/laminated (e.g. the transoms), now is a good time to do that. Make sure you use "waterproof" glue instead of "weatherproof" glue like I did...

Spread a thin layer of glue over one of the "bad" sides (plywood usually has a good side and a bad side, glue bad sides together so good sides show on both outside faces), making sure it's completely covered (I used a special glue roller), then carefully place the other half on top. Align all of the edges together, then clamp them in place. Now put heavy things carefully on top to press the parts together. The glue should be dry in about 6 hours.

NOTE: It's considerably easier and safer to do any woodworking processes to the parts before you assemble the boat. This way, you can safely clamp pieces to the work bench and cut out handle holes, etc. Since my boat is a "lapstrake" design, I had to route a rabbet (groove located on the edge) carefully on the bottom edge of each side panel. This creates a shoulder for the parts to sit on, positively locating them while you're stitching the panels together. Likewise, the grab handles in the transoms are much easier to cut out before putting the boat together.

Also keep in mind that any mistake will be considerably more painful the further you are along in the build. For example, if I biff cutting out the grab handle holes while they're just loose pieces rather than when they're a permanent part of the boat, it's much easier to recover - just make another transom. If you had to patch a hole in the boat, it would be difficult and possibly never look perfect. No pressure...

Step 2: Assembling the Hull...

Once you have the bottom and sides cut out, you can start to "stitch and glue" the hull together. This is a technique used usually for smaller boats to be able to pull the hull form together without the need to build a frame or mold (which can take almost as long and as much wood as the boat itself).

I built a gauge stick to make sure my holes were perfectly spaced at 4" at 1/2" in from the plywood edge. It was 1" wide so either edge was the required 1/2" from the centerline. I worked my way down one side of each of each mated seam and drilled all those holes at once while the panels could lay flat on the bench. Make sure to use a backer block to prevent tear out on the back side, even with such a small drill bit.

With one mating panel drilled with a 1/16" drill bit, hold the mating panel in it's relative position. I used some spare twine to wrangle my panels into the proper orientation as I was marking them. Make a pencil mark where the mating hole should be, remove the pre-drilled panel and drill the second set of holes 1/2" in from the edge. This makes sure there's enough strength to hold the boat together.

The first pass on the stitches is just to get the hull together structurally. You can always go back and make the stitches fancier/tighter and tweak the position of the panels.

The stitches go from the inside out. Cut 6" lengths of wire and bend them into long, narrow U's that are the width of the distance between the holes. Stick the ends through the holes and carefully twist the tails together on the outside of the hull, making sure not to damage the plywood. If you're using zip ties, then the holes you drill will need to be bigger and you'll have to start on the outside, go in, turn around, then back out, then "zip".

Make sure your panels' rabbet shoulders are resting securely on the mating panel and carefully tighten all the stitches. For my boat, once I had two panels stitched to the bottom panel on each side, it was time to attach the transoms (ends). Once all of the exterior parts are stitched together, you should have something that looks like a boat. It will be a little rickety at this stage, but that's okay.

NOTE: In the photos I took of my build, you'll notice that the transom doublers (reinforcers) aren't in place. That was because I was following the instruction manual, but I think that was a mistake, so I highly recommend laminating (gluing) the doublers to the transoms before you stitch the boat together.

Step 3: Reinforcing the Hull Joints...

Now that the hull is stitched together, flip it over upside down. You'll be surprised at how stiff it is, considering how difficult it was to wrangle all those panels into position. Be careful, there's lots of poky wire ends sticking out all over the place.

I used a technique called "tabbing", meaning I made small, structural tabs from thickened epoxy that fit between the stitches, then I removed the stitches and made one long, larger fillet to connect the hull panels together.

Make sure your panels are perfectly aligned and tightened. I used a nipper to lop off most of the tails so they wouldn't get in the way, but that left very sharp spikes.

Make sure your boat is square. Take diagonal measurements from corner to corner, make sure the boat parts are parallel to each other, etc. because if there's a twist in your boat, the next step will make it permanent, which will affect the boat's performance.

Now mix up a batch of epoxy and silica thickener according to the manufacturer's directions (meaning each type of epoxy has a different resin to hardener ratio) until it's between the consistency of thick ketchup, but runnier than peanut butter (make sure to mix the 2 parts of epoxy together first very well before adding a thickener). Too thick and it won't fill the void, too thin and it'll run down inside the boat. Both are bad. I used a small syringe to inject the mix into the V intersection between the panels and checked underneath/inside to see if there were any runs.

Once the epoxy has partially set, use a glove wet with denatured alcohol to smooth out the "tabs" so they fit inside the V groove and don't extend above the intersection between the panels. This will give you good practice for the seams that will show on the finished boat. Be careful of the wire spikes.

Repeat this process for every seam on the hull. Let it cure overnight.

Once the tabs have cured, carefully remove the stitches. If the wire seems to be epoxied permanently to the hull, heat the wire with a lighter. That will soften the epoxy enough to pull the wire out. Be careful not to scorch the boat (you don't want a Viking funeral). Now repeat the thickened epoxy process for each overlap, except this time each seam will need to be one long, smooth joint. Let it cure overnight. This goes a long way in making the boat hull structural.

Step 4: ​Fiberglassing the Hull...

Now that you've got a permanent hull shape, it's time to make it waterproof and rugged. Fiberglass and resin over plywood is a tried and true Do It Yourself boat building technique which makes it strong and light.

Mask off the bottom panel and roll out your fiberglass cloth. Smooth the cloth out very carefully so as not to snag or tweak the fibers' orientation. Mix up an unthickened batch of epoxy (it will be the consistency of syrup). Starting at the stern, pour a small puddle of epoxy and spread it out nice and thin. You should be able to squeeze most of the epoxy out of the cloth, leaving only saturated cloth with no dry spots (which will appear white) but the weave should still be showing (meaning no extra epoxy is pooling). You should easily be able to see the wood grain through the cloth now.

Let the epoxy partially cure and using a razor, slice the dry fiberglass cloth away on the taped seam. Then remove the masking tape. Let the epoxy cure overnight.

Flip the hull over and mix up a batch of epoxy that is the consistency of peanut butter. I masked off the joint, but this step is optional, but keep in mind that it will be visible if you plan on finishing the interior bright (varnished wood). It's not as critical if you're painting the interior. With a plastic spreader, carefully make a large radius transition (fillet) between the bottom panel and the first side panel (garboard). Remove the masking tape when the epoxy mixture is partially cured and carefully scrape/wipe any unwanted mixture. It's much easier to remove now than having to sand it all off later. At this point, it's also a good time to fillet the transoms to the sides using 3/4" radius tabs between stitches and 1" finished fillets after you've removed the stitches. Let the fillets cure overnight.

Now, repeat the entire fiberglassing process on the inside. Except instead of just doing the bottom panel, make sure both the bottom and the garboard are fiberglassed. This is basically the waterline of the boat. The fillet should allow the fiberglass cloth to smoothly make the bend between boards. Remove the excess cloth when partially cured and let sit overnight. Some people fiberglass up onto the transom at this stage which will make the boat stronger, but that means you have to have already filleted the transoms to the bottom.

Step 5: Installing Interior Parts...

The bulkheads get stitched in place just like the panels. They will make the already stiff (and much heavier boat) completely structurally sound and push/pull the sides into their final shape. Then make 3/4" "tab" fillets between the stitches to lock them in place, remove the stitches and make long, smooth 1" fillets. The smaller fillets will get covered by the larger fillets. I used two different modified plastic spreaders to do this step. Each spreader was cut with a box knife and filed/sanded into its final shape.

While you're doing the previous steps, if you're in a time crunch, go ahead and build the daggerboard trunk. It's made of numerous parts that are pre-coated with a couple layers of unthickened epoxy, then glued together with silica-thickened epoxy. This makes it strong and waterproof as it will be below the waterline so must be completely waterproof.

The daggerboard trunk is the most important part of the boat, especially if you're making a sailboat version (this boat can easily just be used as a rowboat). Not only does it support the center seat (thwart), but it has to transfer all of the force from the sail to the water and if you run the boat aground, it takes all the shock loading from the daggerboard.

The daggerboard gets filleted into place like everything else. Make sure it's perfectly on the centerline of the boat as that will affect its sailing characteristics.

Next, let's make the daggerboard slot in the center thwart. I set up a straight edge with a spiral upcutting router bit. Make sure to enlarge the slots at the end of the center thwart so that it can fit around the fillets of the center bulkhead. Now is the time to ease the edges of the center thwart because you'll be sitting on it a lot, so it needs to be comfortable. Because it's so thin, I only routed the top edge of the center thwart that shows and just hand sanded the edge underneath (it's very problematic to use a round-over bit on the second side of a thin board). Paint all of the thwarts with three coats of unthickened epoxy, especially the undersides. Once the woodworking is done, the thwart can be epoxied into place with peanut butter (or you can jump to cutting the daggerboard slot in the bottom of the hull). Make sure the thwart fits snugly in place. Drop dollops of peanut butter on the top edges of the center bulkhead and daggerboard case and spread it out evenly (make sure none gets inside the slot to interfere with the daggerboard). Firmly seat the thwart (pun intended) into the goop and weight it down. Let it cure overnight.

While you've making sawdust, cut out the mast hole (partner) in the forward thwart by drilling holes in the four corners (for the square mast we're going to make), then cut out the sides, file it smooth, then round over the top edge with the router.

Any time after the bulkhead thwart fillets have cured, you can seal the airtank chambers. Paint the bottom, sides, inside of the bulkhead and transom up to the level where the thwart will be.

Step 6: Rail & Sailboat Parts...

There are several processes in this boat building instructable that can be done concurrently. While you're waiting for the epoxy on one part to cure, you can be doing woodworking or epoxying another part. This step illustrates that point. While you're waiting for the epoxy on the rub rail (outwale) to cure, you can be fabricating the sailboat accessories (e.g. daggerboard, rudder, tiller, spars, etc.).

In order for the outwale to be thick/strong enough to be effective, you'll need to laminate it in two strips on each side. You can't bend a single piece that thick around the curvature of the hull without either breaking the wood or softening it by steaming it which is a complicated process.

Take a strip that's half the final thickness and a little longer than the boat edge (I made mine a bit beefier), mix up some peanut butter with the colloidal silica and carefully spread it on the inside of the strip. Starting at the stern, clamp it in place, perfectly align it with the top edge of the plywood. Now you have a long, springy lever to bend the wood strip along the compound curve. It dips both vertically (shear), and bows out at the widest part of the boat (beam), then back in toward the bow. At least every foot, clamp it as you go, moving forward. More is better. Toward the bow, the strip will get stiffer as it gets shorter. Once clamped in place, scrape/wipe off all the squeeze-out. It's much easier to remove now than after it hardens. Let it sit overnight. You'll have to repeat this three more times, meaning this step takes four days (if you're using "slow" epoxy hardener).

During those four days that you're dealing with the outwale, you can make major progress on the sailboat parts. They're completely separate from the hull. If you're just making a rowboat, then you can skip making these parts.

The daggerboard and rudder are cut out and laminated. Then a bevel is ground onto the leading and trailing edges to make it slice through the water more efficiently. Then they're covered in layers of epoxy. The mast step is assembled. This has to be very strong because all of the force of the sail is transmitted to the boat through the mast step and the mast is a very long lever arm. The rudder cheek plates and tiller also have to be assembled similarly to the daggerboard case.

NOTE: Whenever there's a hole to be drilled into any part of the boat, you must take additional steps to make sure the water doesn't penetrate and damage the wood. The correct procedure is to drill an over-sized hole, completely fill that hole with epoxy (I usually put a piece of masking tape on the back side to act as a dam), then once the epoxy cures, re-drill in the center of the epoxy plug the correct hole size. That makes each hole in the boat possibly a 2 day process, so plan accordingly. You can also use 5 minute epoxy to knock out a bunch of holes quickly, but be careful, they're not kidding. This stuff gets rock hard very quickly and will permanently glue anything touching. This is exactly how you drill the hole for the pivot point for the rudder/cheek plate assembly. If the pin is 1/4", then drill 1/2" hole and fill that with epoxy. Now the 1/4" hole will fit nicely in the center and be completely waterproof.

Since all the parts need several coats of unthickened epoxy and they just about all have holes in them, I hung them up with some twine and painted them on all sides, one layer at a time, for several days. Make sure the rudder doesn't get too thick to fit inside the cheek plates.

Step 7: Making the Spars...

More sailboat parts you can make while waiting for other parts to cure are the spars, the structural parts that support the sail. The mast is another glue up. I used 3 - 1x3's of hemlock. A relatively soft wood, but with a nice tight grain with no knots. A mast would break at a knot, regardless of how strong the wood is. Using the waterproof glue, align the pieces as perfectly as you can then clamp up the assembly and let dry overnight. Then run it through a table saw to get the final dimensions. Use a router and a round-over bit to ease the edges. Cut to length and sand the sharp corners. It should fit easily, but snugly into the forward thwart.

The boom (bottom of sail) is a little more complicated. Cut out the gooseneck (boom pivot point) by using a hole saw first, making sure to clamp it securely to the workbench, then cut out the profile. This gets attached to another piece of 1x3 hemlock, after it's been cut to length and the edges have been rounded over.

The yard (top of sail) is easy. Just cut to length and round over the edges. Drill and fill any holes in the spars at this time. You'll need at least one hole on each end to lash the sail grommets to.

This time, everything gets covered with several coats of varnish, epoxy is not necessary. The varnish protects the wood from water and UV damage.

The reason we had to make at least the mast at this point is because we'll need it in the next step to establish the location of the mast step.

Step 8: Finishing Up the Interior & Exterior...

Once the outwales are successfully attached, trim them flush with the face of the transom(s). While you're at it, use a flush cut saw (with no sawtooth offset to mar the wood) to trim the sides flush with the transom. This will show you how well your injected silica mix worked earlier. Now you're ready to install the mast step.

The mast step must be precisely located on the floor (sole) of the boat to give the mast the proper angle (rake). This is very important because it directly affects the boat's ability to sail upwind. Using your mast, insert it into the forward thwart (partner) and into the mast step. With the mast at a 3° angle (mostly vertical but with a small, yet noticeable and graceful tilt toward the stern of the boat), trace the location of the mast step. Use a combination square to make sure it's perfectly aligned side to side (athwartship). You can now set the mast aside. Drill and fill holes in the bottom of the boat so that you can securely screw the mast step from the outside of the hull. The mast base must also be epoxied to the sole with peanut butter. After it's screwed into place but before the epoxy cures, make sure to test fit the mast again and verify the rake angle is correct. It would be a little messy at this point if you had to tweak it, but at least you wouldn't have to cut it off.

Now comes the most unpleasant part of the whole build. On your hands and knees, make a 1" radius fillet on the underside of every part in the boat. I didn't worry about making these pretty, just structural and water tight (these create the flotation tanks that keep the boat from sinking if you capsize). Let that cure overnight.

Next is the scariest part of the build, making the slot in the hull for the daggerboard. Using a drill bit extension, from the inside of the boat, reach down through the daggerboard case and drill a hole at each end of the slot through the bottom of the boat (make sure to use a backer board). Drill a couple holes in between, then take a jigsaw and connect the dots. This weakens the hull enough so that the router won't tear out any extra wood. Note, this step can easily be done prior to affixing the center thwart. Using a flush trim/laminate router bit, let the bearing run around the inside of the daggerboard case. This will make the hole in the hull perfectly match the slot. This is important because you don't want a shoulder on the inside for the daggerboard to hit and you don't want to damage the waterproof lining of the case. Last, ease the sharp edge of the daggerboard slot with the router and a small radius round-over bit.

The skeg must be cut to fit the curve of the hull (rocker), then using silicone bronze screws, attach it to the hull using the same drill and fill/peanut butter techniques. Make sure to snap a chalk line on the centerline of the boat for reference. Then make a 1" fillet where it meets the hull which will support the skeg and make it strong. The skeg keeps the boat tracking straight in the water. I optionally used some fiberglass cloth to cover the skeg and overlap onto the bottom to make the entire assembly stronger and more waterproof. The skeg will take the brunt of the abuse when launching, beaching, loading and unloading, etc. I also installed a stainless steel rubstrake on the aft end of the skeg with this in mind. In wooden boat building, silicone bronze screws are often used because they won't corrode when encapsulated like stainless steel screws can.

Install the skids parallel to the skeg. These are solid pieces of hardwood because they will also take a lot of abuse when the boat is sitting on shore, protecting the thin hull from rocks, etc. They get installed the same way as the skeg, although it's a little tough to bend the wood along the rocker. Scrape off the excess peanut butter once they're screwed in place.

I also installed the optional outboard motor pad at this point because I plan to use an electric trolling motor on the back to quietly putter around the lake in the evenings to relax with the family after work.

That should be the last parts that go into making the boat!

Step 9: Finishing the Hull...

Now comes the last dash to the finish line. One of the more tedious steps is that you now have to sand the entire boat. I actually built the entire boat inside, but for the sanding stage, I took her outside. Several hours of sanding all of the fillets nice and smooth. Everything will show in the finished product whether you paint the boat or leave it "bright" (unpainted). If you've been careful about cleaning up the peanut butter as you go, you should be able to sand the boat with mostly 220 grit. Be careful not to sand through the thin veneer of the plywood. After the sanding is done (make sure to use a dust mask), vacuum the entire boat and then wipe it down with a tack cloth to remove any dust. I also reversed the hose on the shop vac and used it to blow the sawdust off since I was outside.

Next, you must coat the entire interior and exterior with 3-4 coats of unthickened epoxy. This makes the entire boat waterproof. It will also give you an idea of how beautiful the wood will look when varnished. This is why a lot of boat builders decide to leave their boats bright so the beauty of the wood shows through.

Mix up 1 cup batches of unthickened epoxy and pour out large puddles onto the surface. Taking a foam roller, distribute the epoxy in a smooth coat. Now take a wide foam brush and gently smooth (tip) the rolled out surface. This should remove any lap marks or bubbles. Move along to the next area, making sure to not touch the wet parts. Also, make sure no dust or bugs get on your finish or it'll mean even more sanding later.

Start with the exterior first. It'll be much easier to get good by practicing on the convex surfaces. The interior is more tricky because you want to prevent sags and pooling by only applying very thin coats.

Make sure to check with the manufacturer's directions during this step in case you have to deal with "blushing", a thin layer that can sometimes form on the surface of epoxy when it cures. This could cause your layers to not stick to each other. If your epoxy does blush, it's easy to just wipe the entire boat down with a rag soaked in acetone after each coat has cured. Some people sand between coats of epoxy. This is how you would make an extremely smooth/shiny finish, so if you want your boat to be museum quality, invest the effort. I'm planning on banging my boat around so opted out of an extreme, fancy, mirror finish.

I was originally going to paint the exterior of the hull, which would require priming and painting, but I'm leaving it bright for the time being. The good news is that you can always paint later if you change your mind, but if you paint it and change your mind, it's tough to go back. There aren't a lot of pics of this step, which took a couple of days because there wasn't much visible progress after that first coat went on. At this point, any surface that's not painted should be varnished using the same "roll and tip" method as the epoxy, with the optional sanding between coats. Note that epoxy has no UV resistance, so to keep your boat from getting sunburned, you must either paint or varnish every surface. Giving a boat a "museum quality" paint and/or varnish finish can literally take as long as building the boat.

Step 10: Making the Sail...

Another step you can do while other parts are curing is make the sail. This particular design uses a "lug" sail, a classic looking sail for small boats with wood masts. It increases the sail area (therefore the force generated by the wind) without it having to be as tall as a modern sailboat mast made of aluminum. There is a kit from an online sailmaking company that you can get for a reasonable price. The Dacron cloth panels are all cut out by a CNC machine, so they fit perfectly together. I used a regular, domestic sewing machine, not an industrial one. The only time I had trouble was when sewing through all 7 layers at the reinforcement patches. When I got to those parts, I had to manually push down on the foot of the sewing machine with a flat-bladed screwdriver (minus) to help push the needle through the Dacron. We jokingly call Philips head screwdrivers "plus".

The panels/parts all come labeled. The directions were a bit confusing because they suggest you make sub-assemblies after the fact to make wrangling the large sail easier but they mention it after you've already sewn the large panels together. It's important to understand what parts go together while the panels are still small and more manageable. For example, the batten pockets are tricky enough to build on a single panel, much less the finished sail. Building the sail was about as difficult for me as building the boat, but it was worth it.

The lug sail gets reinforcement patches on all four corners where you attach it to the spars (bend), and there's also a reefing point for when the wind starts to pick up (freshen). Modern sails have three corners (Marconi rig).

I opted for the less expensive white Dacron sail kit, but there's also a classic red (tanbark) colored kit that's $100 more expensive. Before I sewed a single stitch, I carefully traced every part of the sail kit onto painter's tarp poly film so I can always use the templates to build another sail, all I need to do is buy the tanbark cloth.

Step 11: Rigging Your Sailboat...

This seems to be the trickiest part for most people, probably because there are numerous ways it can be successfully rigged, depending on your experience, preferences or criteria. It's confusing because you have to know what the finished setup will look like in your mind while you're staring at a pile of ropes. I chose a setup that allows the most room in the cockpit for a full-sized adult, so the mainsheet is led forward of the skipper's position. This keeps the skipper's attention forward so they're looking where they're going. I have another boat where the mainsheet is behind the skipper and it takes some practice getting used to.

The lines I made up (rope becomes a line when you give it a job description) were the halyard (hauls the sail up), the mainsheet (adjusts the angle of the sail to the wind = trim) and a traveler bridle (where the mainsheet attaches to the boat). I got fancy and spliced all my ends, but you can just as well use a bowline knot.

I installed a cheek block at the top of the mast instead of the large diameter hole in the directions. I wanted the halyard to run as smoothly as possible when setting the sail. Then I installed a pair of cleats at the base of the mast, one for the halyard and one for the downhaul (cunningham). With both of these lines pulling in opposite directions, it locks the sail in place, flat, so it effectivley acts like a wing. The main halyard attaches to the gaff with a snap onto a padeye. This allows easy on/easy off when rigging at the boat ramp. I also used a small loop (parrel) around the mast and through the eye to keep the gaff located close to the mast. I looped the downhaul over the boom and down to the cleat to try to keep the gooseneck from twisting. Note, except for the blocks, just about all of the hardware used on rigging a boat this size can come in stainless steel or brass/bronze, depending on the look you're going for. If you plan on installing oarlocks to row the boat, this decision becomes even more important to the final look of the boat.

For the mainsheet, I made a short bridle between the handles on the transom with a small eye tied in the center. This allows a place for the snap on the end of the mainsheet to attach to. I could've just as easily allowed the snap to slide, which would give the bridle the function of a traveler, but would affect its pointing ability (sail upwind). The mainsheet is then run to a block on the end of the boom, then to another block in the middle of the boom. This leaves the main cockpit area unobstructed with running rigging. Make sure your mainsheet is long enough for your boom to swing forward of 90° to the boat, with enough to still come back to the cockpit for the skipper to control. A stop knot at the end of the mainsheet will keep the mainsheet from getting away from you and give you something to grip.

The rudder pivot hardware (gudgeons and pintles) must be installed perfectly vertical and on the exact centerline of the boat so that she will sail well. Drill and fill the necessary holes for this hardware. Be careful with the spacing. It's designed to be easily installed and uninstalled while underway.

With this particular rigging layout, when under sail, the skipper must constantly keep the mainsheet in hand, which is a good idea anyway for safety reasons (if you get hit by a gust of wind = puff, you won't get blown over = capsize). The tension on the mainsheet is easily manageable for any size skipper. On larger boats, the mainsheet is held by a fiddle block with a cam cleat, which is not necessary for a boat this size. With that being said, a possible future upgrade would be to install a block and a camcleat somewhere on the centerline of the boat so that more advanced sailors wouldn't need to constantly have to oppose the tension on the mainsheet. Of course the trade-off would be the hardware would probably be somewhere you might want to sit.

Another upgrade I figured out after actually taking her sailing would be to rig up a bungee/shock cord system that will hold the daggerboard both in an up and down position. With the current setup, the centerboard is held down by gravity and must be pulled out of the slot when beaching.

Step 12: Go SAILING!

Because I wanted to be able to go sailing by myself if needed, I made a dolly out of 2x4's and large pneumatic tires (which makes the dolly float). The dolly fits securely between the center and aft thwarts when driving out to the lake. The sides on the dolly lock against the skids on the bottom of the boat so it can't twist. Roll the sail up with the spars and wrap it with the main halyard. At the designed length, the mast doesn't fit inside the boat, but it seems a bit long, so some people have cut the mast down enough so that it fits inside the boat.

Out at the lake, unload the boat, slide the dolly underneath and you're ready to roll down to the ramp. At the launch, roll the boat out into the water until it floats off the dolly, toss the dolly off to the side out of everybody else's way. Drop the daggerboard into the slot and install the rudder assembly. Facing into the wind (important), stick the mast into the receiver hole (partner), tie off the downhaul (cunningham) and hoist the sail until the downhaul is tight, then cleat off the main halyard. Reave the mainsheet (run the line through the blocks) and you're ready to go sailing.

I've found that this boat sails very well. The lug sail makes it very easy to sail upwind (weather helm), it's a little more tender for a large adult, more so than a boat with a hard chine, like an El Toro/Optimist but it's a lot more graceful looking. The payload is very reasonable for a boat this size. My wife and son can easily (and safely) go sailing with me and I don't even need anyone's help to get it rigged and launched. All in all, this is one of the best projects I've every built. I hope you too can discover the joy of building your own boat and then take her sailing. Remember, in sailing, the wind is free, but nothing else is...

This is my very first Instructable after many years of referencing this excellent site to build numerous cool projects (you should see my next post). Anyway, I hope you enjoy it and please feel free to ask any questions you may have and I'll do my best to answer them. I'm planning on building a larger boat in the near future so stay tuned...

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December 17, 2014 ·

DIY Sailboat Ornaments

Christmas/New Years · Coastal Christmas · Coastal Decor · Crafts · DIY · Tutorial

For the past few years I’ve enjoyed making a coastal ornament for my  coastal Christmas tree. This year I went with a more nautical vibe for the kids’ turquoise and red tree in their playroom and I made some cute DIY Sailboat Ornaments !  They remind me of the ships in bottles and they are easier to make than they look!

To make the Sailboat Ornaments you will need the following items: 

(Amazon affiliate links provided for your shopping convenience)

• (6) Glass Ball Oraments 3 inch
• 1 bag Crushed Shells in an Opalescent Mix of Blue Shades
• Bamboo Skewers, 6-inch 
• Small Clear Elastic Rubber Bands  (or orthodontic bands used for braces)
• a piece of white cardstock or printer paper

Step 2) Now grab 2 tiny rubber bands. I used my kids’ leftover bands from their braces! You can also find small elastic bands in the beauty section of any store, but braces bands work best. Slide one band over the 2 skewers exactly as pictured below.

Step 5) Let go and the boat base will pop into a horizontal position, which should be perpendicular to the mast.

Step 6) Cut out a paper triangle sail out of card stock or printer paper. Feel free to color it if desired. Place a small amount of hot glue to the back of the mast and glue the sail to it.

Step 7) Fill the bottom of your ornament with the crushed shells (Don’t add too much at first. You can always add more later). The reason why I used 3 inch glass ornaments vs. larger ones, is because these shells will make your ornament heavy!

Step 8) Twist the “boat” skewer so it is aligned with the mast (like in step 4) and start inserting it into the ornament opening. It will pop back in place as soon as it clears the opening.

Gently bend and tuck the paper sail so it will fit into the opening. Hold the top of the mast with your needle nose pliers or tweezers and insert the sailboat into the shells, pushing all the way to the bottom or until the “boat” part is sitting on top of the shells (water).  The shells should hold it in place. Use the pliers to adjust the position.

Are they adorable? I hope you try making some Sailboat Ornaments for yourself sometime!

Merry Christmas!

You might also like these posts!

Sea Glass Ornaments

Glass Float Ornaments

Coastal Christmas Home Tour Part 1

Coastal Christmas Home Tour Part 2

December 17, 2014 at 7:15 am

Kim, Love these!! I have to wait until my girlies are grown to do my coastal tree. They won’t let me stop our all things Disney themed tree! I did start making the coastal ornaments and will definitely have to make a dozen of these!! I just posted a jellyfish ornament that I made! Wishing you a happy holiday! Jenny Renovardesign.com

December 17, 2014 at 2:32 pm

Thank you Jenny! I’ll have to pop over and check out your jellyfish ornament!

December 17, 2014 at 8:42 am

Smartypants! They look great, and you’re brilliant for figuring that out. The entire tree is perfect – the colors are fabulous. Nauticus and some of the other local museums should hire you to decorate their trees!

December 17, 2014 at 2:31 pm

Oh wow, now that could be a fun job! Thank you Karin!

December 17, 2014 at 9:29 am

These are ridiculously adorable!! LOVE!

December 17, 2014 at 2:30 pm

Thanks Anele!

December 17, 2014 at 9:50 am

Thanks for sharing…adorable! This is my 1st year going coastal…love it!

Thank you Pamm!

December 18, 2014 at 8:23 am

I love your coastal touches. Now that we are living a mile from the beach I need to do incorporate more coastal decor. Thanks for the inspiration!

December 18, 2014 at 1:22 pm

THank you Morgan!

December 18, 2014 at 11:11 am

Kim, these are amazing! Every Christmas you make something that just delights my coastal soul! 🙂

Thank you Dana!

December 21, 2014 at 10:21 pm

love this! cute idea! https://www.etsy.com/shop/wnbrunk

December 27, 2014 at 11:13 pm

These are so stinkin cute. Kim! Pinning for next year…hope you had a wonderful Christmas! XO

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Sailboat Models and Decorating

Sailing boat models are a beautiful and unique way to add a touch of nautical style to your home décor. There are many different styles and sizes of sailing boat models available at gonautical.com , so you can find one that perfectly suits your taste and décor.

Here are some ideas for decorating with sailing boat models:

• Display your model sailboat on a mantle, bookshelf, or coffee table.  This is a great way to make a statement and add a touch of elegance to your home.
• Group several model sailboats together on a shelf or mantel.  This creates a more dramatic display and is a great way to show off your collection.
• Hang your model sailboat on a wall.  This is a great way to add some nautical interest to a blank wall.
• Use your model sailboat as a centerpiece for a tablescape.  This is a great way to add a touch of elegance to your next dinner party.
• Place your model sailboat in a window.  This is a great way to let the natural light shine through and create a beautiful display.
• Give your model sailboat as a gift.  This is a unique and thoughtful gift that anyone would love to receive.

No matter how you choose to display your sailing boat model, it is sure to add a touch of nautical charm to your home.

Here are some additional tips for decorating with sailing boat models:

• Choose a model that is the right size for your space. A large model will overpower a small space, while a small model will get lost in a large space.
• Consider the style of your home décor when choosing a model. If your home has a traditional décor, you might choose a model that is made of wood or brass. If your home has a more modern décor, you might choose a model that is made of plastic or metal.
• Don’t be afraid to get creative with your display. You can group models together, hang them on walls, or even use them as centerpieces.
• With a little creativity, you can use sailing boat models to add a touch of nautical charm to any space.

Home » Blog » Live on a boat » Give your boat interior a fresh look

Give your boat interior a fresh look

By Author Fiona McGlynn

Posted on Last updated: August 4, 2023

12 AFFORDABLE BOAT INTERIOR DESIGN IDEAS

When we first moved aboard, our sailboat interior was a mess and we didn’t have the money to update it . We wanted to go cruising and our priorities were things like new sails, rigging, fiberglass repair, and electronics.

As much as I wanted a beautiful boat interior it was impossible to justify hiring an interior designer or updating the upholstery when we didn’t even have a dependable bilge pump! Fortunately, I found some creative boat interior design ideas and was able to makeover our sailboat for next to nothing.

In addition to sharing our boat interior restoration ideas, I’ve included my favorite boat interior photos from Pinterest and Instagram to further stoke your inspiration!

A quick note that this post contains affiliate links (so if you purchase through a link we’ll earn a small commission). The opinions are our own.

1. START BY DEEP CLEANING

As un-fun as it might be, a deep clean is the cheapest way to radically brighten your interior. It’s especially affordable if you use homemade boat cleaners. Dirty boat upholstery, mildewed cabin liners, and salt-encrusted hatches made our boat feel damp, dark, and generally unpleasant.

Deep cleaning (after years of neglect) drastically improved the boat cabin’s appearance and gave me a better idea of where to focus our boat interior makeover.

• Professionally launder your upholstery
• Wipe down the cabin liners with vinegar to prevent mildew and mold
• Wash hatches to maximize natural light
• Clean under all the cabin soles and the edges of any rotting boards
• Wash the walls and treat any wood with the appropriate wax, oil, or varnish
• Scrub out the bilge to prevent that boaty smell.

2. INSTALL INTERIOR BOAT LIGHTS

One of the great challenges of sailboat interior design is lighting. I’ve always felt that living on our sailboat is like living in a basement apartment because it is totally lacking in natural light !

One of the quickest ways to brighten things up is to install marine LED lights. The key to making LED boat lights look great, is placement.

The 3 best places to places to put LED strip lights on a sailboat

1. Under counter lighting. They look especially nice under cupboards or overhangs because the light strip is hidden.

View this post on Instagram < New battery installed! Lights and radio work. There’s LED strip lights which are great, but in the future we may need to swap those out for the multi colored ones. Our house has party-mode, the boat should too! #catalina22 #sailing #boatlife A post shared by SV Buza Sasha (@sv_buza_sasha) on Jul 11, 2018 at 5:18am PDT

2. LED rope lights make great courtesy lights . Tuck strip lighting on either side of a walkway to help guests navigate in the dark.

Battery operated fairy lights look cute coiled in a jar of seashells and are another easy way to add decorative lighting because no wiring is required. For the same reason, Solar Luci lamps and Solar Luci strings are a great option for lighting the cockpit.

3. COZY-UP TO NEW BEDDING

Ditch those damp cotton sheets and invest in hydrophobic options like 100% polyester. If you have a vberth, quarter berth, or non-standard sized bed, you may want to spend a few extra bucks on custom fitted boat sheets.

I know many cruisers who swear by memory foam mattresses and the Hypervent mattress pad for preventing condensation. If you like duvets and comforters, consider a mulberry silk option because it’s mold and mildew resistant.

4. FRESHEN THE HEAD

Add a splash of color to a dark bathroom with cheerful microfiber towels , Or, if you don’t want to feel like you’re camping, try the more luxurious quick-drying Turkish towels .

Tie them in with a cute wall-mounted soap dispenser and a spill-proof whicking air freshener and you’re on your way

5. GO GALLEY GOURMET

• Replace a rusted or dull faucet with a sparkling new one with a pull-down sprayer.
• Splash-out with colorful dish towels
• Use biodegradable loofas and scrubbies instead of plastic
• Pick up non-breakable dishware and glassware in fun patterns and designs.
• Create extra space with chopping board stove and sink covers
• Add custom knife, wine, and spice racks
• Add a green bar to keep greens fresh without a fridge

View this post on Instagram Boat decor #sundance #sailboat #sailboatlife #sailboatlifestyle #1969 #tartansailboat #sailboatinteriordesign #sailboatinteriors #maltetaller A post shared by Sundance Sailboat (@sundancesailboat1969) on Aug 15, 2017 at 5:32pm PDT

6. BOAT INTERIOR UPHOLSTERY IDEAS

Reupholstering a boat is the single most expensive part of a sailboat interior refit but it makes a huge difference. It costs thousands of dollars if you hire someone to do it. Fortunately there are a few tricks we used to avoid a full upholstery overhaul.

• Fun throw cushions and blankets can give your interior new life (and cover stained or threadbare upholstery)
• Packed out seat cushions can be easily fixed by inserting a layer of high-density foam and batting on top of the existing foam.
• If your upholstery is in really bad shape you may want to sew elasticated cushion coverlets that go over the top side of the cushion (it’s also a good way to protect nice new upholstery from boat projects (see: dirt, grease, and sweat stains).
• You can reupholster your boat for a fraction of the cost if you do the sewing yourself. It’s possible to score good deals on durable materials and marine-grade fabrics online. Also, if you’re not a sewer but you’re going cruising, you may want to bring your boat interior fabric with you and have the cushions sewn up in a place like Mexico or Fiji. We eventually had all of our saloon cushions sewn up for $100 USD in Ensenada, Mexico.

If you choose to reupholster your boat, look for boat interior upholstery fabric . You don’t have to worry (as much) about finding a waterproof or UV-resistant fabric (because it will be inside). However, always choose a synthetic fabric , heavy-duty nylon thread, and plastic zippers. Cotton will eventually rot and metal zippers will rust. You can get away with not using marine upholstery but natural fibers are a big no-no!

7. CUT A RUG

8. LOVE YOUR WALLS

Securely fasten art, photos, and souvenirs to your walls. Mirrors are great for creating the illusion of space.

Privacy curtains are also a good way to add a splash of color and are straightforward to make

View this post on Instagram My husband’s an artist…the cat approves 🐙🤣 . . . . . #catvskraken #sailboat #chalk #artist #sailboatinteriors #chalkboardart #kraken #catsofinstagram #meow #liveaboard #fridayvibes #fridaymood #instamoment #talent #husbandskills #saltytails @sv_saltytails A post shared by Erin 🌊🌴⛵🐚👙☉ (@erin_svsaltytails) on Jul 27, 2018 at 2:42pm PDT

View this post on Instagram After all of the sanding, refinishing, painting, ripping out old floors and carpet, we’re really loving our space. There are more projects to do, but we’re enjoying the results so far! When we originally bought our boat back in December, we had enough time to take care of the “must do’s” so this summer we are spending the time to really make her ours! . . . . . . #lightandbright #sailboat #sailboatinteriors #woodwork #overhaul #huntersailboats #cherubini #interiordesign #laboroflove #tinyliving #liveaboard #boatlife #sailors #ourhome #takingabreak #fornow #summerprojects #traveler #travelblog #results #saltytails @sv_saltytails A post shared by Erin 🌊🌴⛵🐚👙☉ (@erin_svsaltytails) on Jul 22, 2018 at 11:27am PDT

9. WHITEN AND BRIGHTEN YOUR SAILBOAT INTERIOR

Painting panels in light colors can brighten and modernize a boat cabin and set off teak trim. We repainted our red and blue fiberglass bathroom white and it made the space feel much bigger. It also makes it easy to clean because you can see the dirt.

View this post on Instagram #beforeandafter #boatrestoration #vintagesailing #menorca #sailing #boat #sailboat #sailboatinteriors #boatinterior A post shared by Velero Vintage en Menorca (@vintagesailing) on May 1, 2018 at 5:02pm PDT

10. STOW SIMPLY WITH CUTE STORAGE SOLUTIONS

Boats are always short on storage space but a few decorative baskets and storage containers can really improve the look of the space while giving you more room to tuck things away.

11. FUN AND FUNCTIONAL WINDOW COVERINGS

12. CHOOSE A FUN FEATURE

Let your imagination run wild. A feature wall, table, or piece of artwork can really change the feel of a sailboat interior. Have fun with colors, patterns, and make your new floating home your own.

View this post on Instagram #sailboat #boatlife #boatlifestyle #sailboatinteriors #ceder #liveedge #boatlifestyle #vancouver #boatinterior #art #windspirit #homesweethome #liveaboard #westcoastliving A post shared by @ arana_arte on Nov 2, 2017 at 9:13am PDT

If you’re still feeling overwhelmed about revamping your sailboat interior you may want to consider hiring professional help . There are plenty of interior designers who would welcome the challenge of working on a boat! Look for someone who has experience designing for small spaces and tiny homes.

We hope you enjoyed this list of custom boat interior ideas…

Good luck with your sailboat makeover.

Fiona McGlynn is an award-winning boating writer who created Waterborne as a place to learn about living aboard and traveling the world by sailboat. She has written for boating magazines including BoatUS, SAIL, Cruising World, and Good Old Boat. She’s also a contributing editor at Good Old Boat and BoatUS Magazine. In 2017, Fiona and her husband completed a 3-year, 13,000-mile voyage from Vancouver to Mexico to Australia on their 35-foot sailboat.

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DIY Beach Decor: 45+ Ideas for a Coastal Home

By: Author Amy

Posted on Last updated: January 28, 2024

Home / Craft Ideas / Home Decor Crafts / DIY Beach Decor: 45+ Ideas for a Coastal Home

Make beautiful DIY beach decor with these unique tutorials! Get tons of ideas to decorate a coastal home, from wall art to candles and more.

Do you have a beach house? Do you live in a coastal area? Or do you just appreciate nautical decor? No matter what your living situation, there’s always room for DIY beach decor. At least in my book.

I’m not even necessarily that much of a beach person, but there’s something about the colors of the decor, the shells, and the driftwood (especially!) that I love.

The blues, greens, whites, and weathered grays of beach decor are really relaxing to me. I think of a nice vacation, where there’s a book in one hand and a drink in the other. You know, with a cool breeze. Isn’t it perfect?

That’s why so many people love beach decor, regardless of where they live. This style adds some calm vibes to the bedroom, bathroom, living room, or kitchen .

If you’re trying to find some great projects to add a beachy feel to your home, I’m excited to show you what I’ve put together.

I’m sharing a list of 45+ DIY beach decor ideas I’d love for you to check out! You’ll find everything from candles to wall art to accessories to wreaths. There’s something for every part of your home on this list.

And let’s not forget the best thing about beach decor . . . many times you can get the supplies for free! Sand, shells, and driftwood are often in copious amounts if you live near the beach.

You can also get great deals on these same supplies (if you don’t live near the beach) at the craft store and Dollar Tree .

You should also be sure to check the dollar store for some of the base surfaces as well. They have great prices on unfinished wood, glass , plates , and candle holders .

Shopping the dollar store and your local beach can seriously reduce the cost of these projects. Some could even be free depending on what you have in your stash!

If you’re ready, check out these cool decor projects inspired by the coast. Let me know what you think of them (or which ones you’ve tried) in the comments.

DIY Beach Decor

Learn how to make all sorts of DIY beach decor for your coastal home! Get all sorts of ideas ranging from wall art to candles to wreaths and more.

This Beach Fairy Garden is a Mini Oasis

Create your own beach fairy garden and bring a sense of seaside enchantment to your home or outdoor space. It's so easy to put together!

Beach Glass Mason Jar Lanterns

Use glass paint to create these mason jar lanterns with a faux beach glass theme. These look gorgeous with tea lights inside!

Easy Beach Letters

Make a fun project for summer! These beach letters would look perfect on your mantel - and are very easy to assemble with Mod Podge.

Styrofoam Starfish Beach Decor

You won't believe what this unique starfish craft is REALLY made of! Learn how to make one (or 12!) to add to your beach-y home decor.

Ocean Resin Art

Learn how to make ocean resin art for beginners! Even if you don’t have experience you can make this beach resin art for your home.

Nautical Fall Decor with Mod Podge

This pumpkin craft uses Mod Podge and fabric to turn a gourd into fantastic nautical fall decor! Learn how easy it is to make here.

Beach Themed Oatmeal Soap

Make this pretty beach themed oatmeal soap with a surprise inside! It's the perfect decor for a beachy bathroom or a coastal inspired escape.

DIY Nautical Wall Art

Are you inspired by seaworthy decor? This DIY nautical wall art is easy to make with Mod Podge - and uses a fun color palette.

DIY Nautical Themed Magnets

Make cute magnets using this simple tutorial! This is one of those DIY magnet ideas you're going to love making for every gift giving opportunity.

Decoupage Coasters

Learn how to make these cork coasters and seal them with Mod Podge! This is such an easy project.

DIY Coastal Mailbox

Courtney moved into a new home and gave it a coastal DIY mailbox makeover with paint, Mod Podge Outdoor, and paper. It looks awesome!

Seashell Wreath 

I love some of the beautiful blues you see in DIY beach decor - they are my favorite shades! I'm a big fan of this wreath from Julie because of the neutrals and blues combined together with the seashells. So pretty!

Decorate a Tray Using a Goodwill Find

Learn to decorate a tray with this simple tutorial! You're going to love the before and after of this $3 Goodwill find. SO easy to do.

Fabric Lined Drawers with Mod Podge

Use Mod Podge and your favorite ocean inspired fabric pattern to create these unique fabric lined drawers - I love the surprise every time you open one!

Summer Wreath with Split Peas

If you're looking for an EASY DIY summer wreath, this is your project! This summer door wreath uses dollar store supplies.

Nautical Lazy Susan Makeover

Add a nautical touch to your kitchen with this easy IKEA lazy susan makeover! Use a stencil to create a unique design, then seal and display.

Oyster Shell Candles

Hang onto summertime and those beach vacation memories by making these pretty, great-smelling DIY oyster seashell candles for your decor. How pretty would these be on the tables at a beach wedding or a romantic seaside dinner?

DIY Rustic Sailboat

Do you have a pile of branches or driftwood that need to be turned into something? Make some DIY beach decor with this cute sailboat, made with twigs and ticking patterned fabric.

How to Make a Sea Glass Candle

Use colored glass to create a glowing sea glass candle. This coastal project takes minutes to make, requires no special tools, and creates a beautiful item for yourself or gifts.

Nautical Alphabet DIY "HOME" Sign

Create a unique “HOME” sign using the nautical alphabet and some bold colors of Duck Tape! This is such an easy craft and makes great decor or a gift.

Sisal Rope Tree Topped With Starfish

I love it when holiday projects turn beachy! Add a sisal rope tree to your home for Christmas - this is the perfect DIY beach decor for the season.

How to DIY Plank Walls

Learn how to plank a wall and paint it with beach inspired colors of chalk paint - for under $100! This would be beautiful in guest bedroom.

DIY Weathered Beach Signs

Bring a little of that beach feeling into your home by making some rustic looking beach signs. Learn how to turn regular wood into weathered looking beachy signs perfect for your coastal themed home.

Seashell Ornaments

Learn how to make seashell Christmas ornaments - with glitter! These are so easy. They're great for the holidays but also for hanging around your home any time of year.

Seaglass and Cedar Mermaid Art

This beautiful art was inspired by the city of mermaids, Norfolk, Virginia. Kim made this piece with beach glass and wood. It would look perfect on an outdoor patio or porch!

Tinted Mason Jars

Have you tried the Mod Podge Sheer Colors? They are so easy to use - make these simple, pretty tinted mason jars in just a few minutes!

Driftwood Candle Holder

Add a coastal touch to your home cottage or special event decorating with an easy upcycled driftwood candle holder! It's fun to collect the wood from the beach for this project, and even kids can get in on it.

Coastal Fall Pumpkins with Sand

These sand pumpkins are EASY to make and perfect for adding to a coastal fall decor display! So simple that even kids can help.

Fishnet Wrapped Mason Jar

This pretty mason jar makes me feel like I'm in vacation mode 24/7! This would look cute in a bathroom . . . and you can add tea lights inside and watch it glow.

Rustic Fisherman Ombre Fish Frame

Do you love to fish at the beach? This is perfect decor for the home where fishing as just as important as the sand and salty beach air.

Mason Jar Lamp Tutorial

This mason jar lamp is a unique way to showcase your collections! To turn this into beach decor, add some sand and shells (or any other beach treasures you find).

DIY Rustic Coastal Blanket Ladder

Gather some larger pieces of driftwood and use them to make this beautiful coastal inspired blanket ladder! It adds the perfect touch to cottage decor.

DIY Coastal Tic-Tac-Toe

This coastal tic-tac-toe board is a pretty easy DIY project that you can knockout in an afternoon. If you own a beach house, then you need this! 

DIY Beach Decor Using Ropes

Did you know that you can make your own DIY beach decor in minutes using ropes? Use this technique on a candle holder, but any surface is perfect for DIY beach crafts like this one. Perfect in the bedroom or bathroom.

IKEA Hack: Coastal Nightstand

Turn a plain pine chest into a sophisticated coastal styled nightstand with this easy IKEA Rast hack. There is some simple woodworking involved, but it's not hard! The hacking combined with the paint and handles makes this perfect for the beach.

Repurposed Denim Fish Pillow

I love these cute pillows made using repurposed fabric and denim! These would look perfect in a coastal inspired living room or even kids' rooms.

Driftwood Crab Wall Art

Next time you're at the beach, don't forget to collect some driftwood for making your own crab coastal decor, like this driftwood crab wall art!

Beach Glass Inspired Votive

I love the beautiful pastels, greens, browns, and turquoise shades you always see in beach glass! Pick your favorite shades of glass filler and hot glue gun, and you can have this DIY beach decor done in minutes.

Coastal Driftwood Planter

Turn a piece of driftwood into a succulent planter - that looks perfect on a coffee or dining table! Use real succulents or fake.

Quick Burlap Beach Decor Frames

You won't believe how quickly you can accomplish this pretty beach art! Grab some burlap and frames . . . if you can stencil, you'll be able to do this in minutes.

Make a Clock with Driftwood

Sonja held on to this perfectly water-worn, sun bleached piece of driftwood for quite some time. She was going to make a shelf out of it, but she decided to make a clock! I love the results.

DIY Gilded Seashells

There's the beachy look, and then the beachy glam look! Amy went for the latter by adding gilding to some beautiful seashells. I absolutely love the results.

Easy to Make Oyster Shell Mirror

Can you glue shells to wood? I think you're going to be surprised at how easy it to make this beautiful oyster mirror! Get the tips and tricks at the post.

DIY Driftwood Towel Rack

What to do when you find a large, beautiful piece of white washed driftwood? Transform it into useful DIY rustic coat rack or towel hooks for your home or cottage.

Sea Glass Christmas Tree

If you want a beautiful piece of beach decor, you need to DIY this gorgeous sea glass Christmas tree! It’s not hard to make, and each one turns out differently.

Coastal Cloche Decor

Kim uses these post to show a variety of ways to decorate cloche with a coastal theme! If you're looking for beautiful DIY beach decor, you need to see her ideas.

Vintage Beach Vignette

Paula shows us how to create beautiful beach vignettes using vintage items. I love Paula's style and I think you will too - see how she put everything together in her post.

If you enjoyed this beach decor, you should definitely check these other related posts:

• Seashell Crafts: 30+ Beachy Decor Ideas
• Super Cool Summer Crafts to Beat the Heat!
• DIY Coasters: 50 Designs for Decor or Gifts!
• Mason Jar Crafts: 60+ Unique Ideas You’ll Have to Try