sunfish sailboat speed

How to Rig a Sunfish: Step-by-Step Guide to Sail Away

Imagine the gentle ripple of water, the whisper of a breeze, and the thrill of harnessing the wind to propel yourself across the water. For sailors, there’s no feeling quite like it, and the Sunfish sailboat offers the perfect vessel for such adventures.

In this comprehensive guide, we embark on a journey to help you master the art of rigging a Sunfish sailboat. Whether you’re a novice eager to set sail for the first time or a seasoned sailor in need of a refresher, this article has you covered.

The Sunfish sailboat is renowned for its simplicity, making it an ideal choice for sailors of all skill levels. Our guide will walk you through the essential steps, from setting up the mast and sail to ensuring your boat is shipshape. So, whether you’re preparing for a leisurely day on the water or gearing up for some friendly racing, read on to discover the secrets of rigging a Sunfish and unlocking the full potential of this iconic sailboat.

Introduction to the Sunfish Sailboat

Nestled at the intersection of simplicity and pure sailing joy, the Sunfish sailboat has been captivating the hearts of sailors for generations. With a history dating back to the mid-20th century, this beloved boat is renowned for its straightforward design and the exhilarating experiences it offers on the water.

For anyone looking to venture into the world of sailing, mastering the art of rigging a Sunfish is an essential skill. It’s the very foundation upon which your sailing adventures will be built. Whether you’re a novice seeking your maiden voyage or a seasoned sailor revisiting the basics, understanding how to properly rig a Sunfish is paramount for safety and a delightful time out on the water.

In this guide, we’ll embark on a journey to demystify the rigging process, step by step. By the end, you’ll not only have the knowledge but also the confidence to set sail on your Sunfish, ready to embrace the wind, waves, and the endless possibilities of the open water. So, let’s dive in and uncover the secrets of rigging the Sunfish sailboat for an unforgettable sailing experience.

Gather Your Tools and Equipment

Before you embark on the process of rigging your Sunfish, it’s crucial to ensure you have all the necessary tools and equipment at your disposal. Here’s a comprehensive list of items you’ll need:

• Sunfish Sail: The sail is the heart and soul of your boat. Ensure it’s in good condition, free of tears or significant wear.
• Mast: The mast is the vertical pole that supports the sail. It should be straight and secure.
• Boom: The boom is the horizontal spar that extends the foot of the sail. Check for any signs of damage or rust.
• Lines (Ropes): You’ll need various lines for controlling the sail, including the halyard (raises the sail), mainsheet (controls the angle of the sail), and other lines for rigging adjustments.
• Daggerboard: This board helps with stability and direction. Ensure it’s securely in place and free of damage.
• Rudder and Tiller: The rudder controls your boat’s direction, while the tiller is the handle you use to steer. Make sure they’re both functioning correctly.
• Life Jacket: Safety first! Always wear a properly fitted life jacket when sailing.
• Paddle: In case the wind dies down or you need to maneuver in tight spaces, a paddle can be a lifesaver.
• Bailer or Sponge: To keep the cockpit dry and free of water, especially if it splashes in.
• Tool Kit: A basic toolkit with pliers, a screwdriver, and a wrench can be handy for minor adjustments.
• Sunscreen and Sunglasses: Protect yourself from the sun’s rays.
• Hat and Water: Stay hydrated and shielded from the sun.
• Whistle or Horn: These are essential safety devices for alerting others in case of an emergency.

Before rigging your Sunfish, inspect all equipment for any wear, damage, or missing parts. Safety should always be a top priority, so ensure your life jacket is in excellent condition and fits snugly. Once everything is in order, you’re ready to begin rigging your Sunfish and setting sail for a fantastic day on the water.

Position the Sunfish on Land or in Shallow Water for Rigging

Before you start rigging your Sunfish, you’ll need to prepare the boat properly. Here’s how to do it:

• Choose the Right Location: Select a location on land or in shallow water that’s free from obstacles and provides ample space to work around the boat.
• Position the Sunfish: Carefully position the Sunfish with the bow (front) pointing into the wind. This is important for a smooth rigging process.
• Level the Boat: Ensure the boat is level from side to side. An uneven boat can make rigging and sailing more challenging.
• Secure the Boat: If you’re on land, make sure the boat is securely supported with appropriate boat stands or supports to prevent it from tipping or moving during rigging.
• Check the Wind: Assess the wind conditions. While it’s okay to rig in a light breeze, strong winds can make the process more difficult. If it’s too windy, consider postponing your rigging or seek help from someone experienced in handling a Sunfish in windy conditions.
• Gather Your Gear: Double-check that you have all the necessary tools and equipment nearby, as mentioned earlier.

By positioning the Sunfish correctly, ensuring it’s level, and taking wind conditions into account, you’ll set the stage for a smooth rigging process and a safe and enjoyable sailing experience.

Process of Stepping the Mast, Which Involves Attaching the Mast to the Boat’s Hull

Stepping the mast is a crucial step in rigging your Sunfish. Follow these steps carefully:

• Attach the Mast Step: The mast step is a metal fitting on the boat’s deck near the bow. Insert the bottom end of the mast into the mast step. Ensure it fits snugly and securely.
• Align the Mast: With the mast in the mast step, position it vertically. Check for any lateral (side-to-side) or forward-leaning tilt. The mast should be perfectly upright.
• Attach the Forestay: The forestay is the front rigging line that goes from the top of the mast to the front of the boat. Hook the forestay to the bow eyelet or fitting. Make sure it’s securely attached.
• Secure the Shrouds: The shrouds are the side rigging lines that keep the mast in position. Attach one end of each shroud to the eyelets on the sides of the boat, near the gunwales. The other end of each shroud should be attached to the chainplates on the sides of the mast.
• Adjust Tension: Properly tension the forestay and shrouds. The rigging lines should be tight enough to support the mast but not overly tight, as this can distort the hull. The mast should remain vertical and secure.
• Inspect All Attachments: Double-check that all attachments are secure, and there’s no slack in the rigging lines. Ensure the mast is firmly in the mast step.

Properly stepping the mast and ensuring correct alignment, tension, and secure attachments are essential for safe and efficient sailing. A well-rigged Sunfish will perform better and provide a more enjoyable experience on the water.

Attach the Boom to the Mast and the Sail to the Boom

Attaching the boom and sail correctly is vital for effective sailing. Here’s how to do it:

• Attach the Boom to the Mast: The boom is the horizontal spar that extends perpendicular to the mast. Slide the gooseneck fitting on the front of the boom onto the mast. The gooseneck should fit snugly on the mast, and the boom should rest horizontally.
• Secure the Mainsheet: The mainsheet is the line that controls the angle of the sail. Attach one end of the mainsheet to the eyelet on the back of the boom. The other end will be handled by the sailor while sailing.
• Attach the Sail to the Boom: Slide the sail’s foot (bottom edge) into the boom’s groove, starting from one end and working your way to the other. Make sure the sail is centered on the boom. Secure the sail by tightening the boom vang, a line running from the back of the boom to the mast.
• Tension the Sail: Pull the halyard line (located on the front side of the mast) to raise the sail. The sail should be taut but not overly tight. Adjust the downhaul line (attached to the tack of the sail) to control the tension in the lower part of the sail.
• Adjust the Outhaul: The outhaul line (attached to the clew of the sail) controls the tension in the sail’s foot. Adjust it to achieve the desired sail shape.
• Check Sail Shape: Stand behind the boat and look at the sail’s shape. It should be smooth and evenly tensioned, with no excessive wrinkles or creases. Make adjustments as needed.
• Secure Loose Ends: Secure any loose lines and ensure nothing is dangling or obstructing the sail’s movement.

Properly attaching the boom and sail, as well as adjusting the halyard, downhaul, and outhaul lines, is essential for sail control and efficient sailing. Ensure that all lines are free from tangles or snags, as this will help maintain control over the sail during your voyage.

Daggerboard and Rudder Installation

Inserting the daggerboard:.

• Locate the daggerboard slot on the centerline of the Sunfish hull, typically near the cockpit.
• Hold the daggerboard vertically with the tapered end facing downward.
• Insert the daggerboard into the slot, starting from the top. Ensure it slides smoothly into place.
• Continue pushing the daggerboard down until it rests securely in the slot and is fully submerged in the water. The daggerboard provides stability and prevents lateral movement when sailing.

Attaching the Rudder:

• The rudder consists of the rudder blade and the rudder head. The rudder head fits into a bracket on the back of the boat.
• Insert the rudder head into the bracket and push it down until it clicks or locks into place. There is often a pin or mechanism that secures the rudder in the bracket.
• Ensure the rudder blade is perpendicular to the boat’s centerline and extends downward into the water. The rudder controls your boat’s direction and is crucial for steering.

Checking Control Lines:

Examine the control lines associated with the rudder:

• Tiller: The tiller is the wooden or metal bar connected to the rudder head. Make sure it is securely attached to the rudder head and that it moves freely to steer the boat.
• Tiller Extension: If your Sunfish has a tiller extension, check that it is attached and functioning correctly. The extension allows you to control the rudder while seated.
• Rudder Downhaul Line: The rudder downhaul line controls the angle of the rudder blade. Ensure it is properly adjusted to your desired steering responsiveness.

Properly installing the daggerboard and rudder and ensuring the associated control lines are in good working order are essential steps before setting sail. These components play a critical role in maintaining control and stability while on the water.

Rigging the Various Lines for Sail Control, Including the Mainsheet, Outhaul, and Vang

• The mainsheet controls the angle of the sail, affecting your boat’s speed and direction.
• Attach one end of the mainsheet to the aft end of the boom, typically with a bowline knot.
• Thread the other end through the mainsheet block, which is typically attached to the traveler bar on the boat’s cockpit floor.
• Bring the mainsheet line up to the sail’s clew (the lower back corner of the sail) and pass it through the aft grommet (a reinforced hole) in the sail.
• Pull the mainsheet line down, creating tension in the sail. The mainsheet should run freely through the block for easy adjustments while sailing.
• The outhaul adjusts the tension in the foot (bottom) of the sail.
• Attach one end of the outhaul line to the clew of the sail, usually through the outhaul grommet.
• Thread the other end of the outhaul line through the outhaul block or pulley on the boom.
• Adjust the outhaul to your desired sail shape and tension by pulling or releasing the line.

Vang (Optional):

• The vang controls the tension in the leech (back edge) of the sail.
• Attach one end of the vang to the gooseneck fitting on the mast.
• Thread the other end through the vang block on the boom.
• Adjust the vang to control the twist in the sail by pulling or releasing the line.

Cleating Lines:

• Many Sunfish sailboats have cleats to secure lines, allowing for hands-free sailing.
• To cleat a line, simply wrap it around the appropriate cleat and pull it tight. The cleat will hold the line in place.
• To release a cleated line quickly, pull it upward and away from the cleat.

Properly rigging and adjusting these control lines is crucial for sail control and optimizing your boat’s performance. The mainsheet, outhaul, and vang give you control over the sail’s shape, angle, and tension, allowing you to harness the wind effectively while sailing your Sunfish.

Performing Safety Checks Before Setting Sail

Before setting sail on your Sunfish, safety should always be a top priority. Here are some essential safety checks and precautions:

• Buoyancy Check: Ensure that your Sunfish is positively buoyant, meaning it will float even if swamped or capsized. Check for any hull damage or leaks that could affect buoyancy.
• Secure All Lines: Double-check that all lines, including the mainsheet, outhaul, vang, and control lines, are properly secured and free from tangles or knots.
• Equipment Condition: Inspect all equipment, such as the daggerboard, rudder, and sail, to ensure they are in good condition and properly attached., Verify that the mast, boom, and rigging are secure and free from damage or wear.
• Life Jackets: Always wear a Coast Guard-approved life jacket while on the water, and ensure that any passengers also have access to life jackets that fit them properly.
• Safety Guidelines: Familiarize yourself and your passengers with safety guidelines, such as proper body positioning in the boat and what to do in case of capsizing or other emergencies.
• Weather Check: Before heading out, check the weather forecast. Avoid sailing in severe weather conditions, strong winds, or thunderstorms.
• Emergency Gear: Carry essential emergency gear, including a whistle, paddle, bailer, and a means of communication (e.g., a waterproof phone or VHF radio).
• Float Plan: Let someone ashore know your sailing plans, including your intended route and estimated return time. This helps ensure someone is aware of your whereabouts in case of an emergency.
• Boating Knowledge: Ensure you have the necessary knowledge and skills for sailing a Sunfish, especially if you are a beginner. Consider taking a sailing course or sailing with an experienced sailor until you gain confidence.
• Stay Hydrated and Sun-Protected: Bring water to stay hydrated during your sail, especially on hot days., Protect yourself and passengers from the sun with sunscreen, hats, and sunglasses.

By prioritizing safety and performing these pre-sail checks, you can enjoy your Sunfish sailing adventures with peace of mind, knowing that you are well-prepared for a safe and enjoyable experience on the water.

Conclusion and Setting Sail

In conclusion, rigging a Sunfish sailboat is a fundamental skill that allows you to embark on exciting sailing adventures. We’ve covered the step-by-step process, from gathering your tools and equipment to performing safety checks before setting sail.

As you gain experience and confidence in rigging your Sunfish, you’ll discover the joy and freedom of sailing. It’s a skill that opens the door to countless adventures on the water, whether you’re exploring new places, racing with fellow sailors, or simply enjoying a peaceful day on the lake.

Remember that practice makes perfect. The more you rig your Sunfish and set sail, the more proficient you’ll become. Over time, rigging will become second nature, and you’ll be able to focus on the pure pleasure of sailing.

So, take these instructions to heart, get out on the water, and enjoy the wind in your sails as you create unforgettable memories aboard your Sunfish sailboat. Sailing offers a lifetime of enjoyment, and rigging your boat is just the beginning of your exciting journey on the water. Happy sailing!

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Read New Impeller Not Pumping Water: Troubleshoot and Fixing until we meet in the next article.

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Sunfish Boat Specifications

The sailplan requires just 2 lines to control and the boat can be set up in less than 5 minutes. The patented kick-up rudder system allows full beach landings with no problems. The hard-chined hull and low sail plan provide unmatched stability and a forgiving feel. The Sunfish hull is light enough to throw on top of your car with ease, and the bulletproof Laser Performance construction ensures that your Sunfish will provide years of virtually maintenance free enjoyment. The Sunfish combines performance, stability and durability in a package that appeals to beginners and experts alike.

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Sunfish Hull Speed...?

• Thread starter Simon Sexton
• Start date Jan 9, 2019
• Forums for All Owners

I skimmed the photo from the article in the current Sailing World. Note how far back the masts are stepped. Apparently to reduce the chance of capsizing or pitchpoling, wouldn’t that wake you up out in mid ocean by yourself!!!  

jon hansen said: +1 every sailor should understand what hull speed means. Click to expand

sailme88 said: This line is a parabola that lengthens as a beamer hull heels. Click to expand

Yep my head is starting to hurt. Time to fire up my underwater drone and search for treasure, or start daydreaming about being 15 and sailing my laser on a hot summer day. Last thing I was thinking about then was hull speed!  

sailme88 said: I still have a Bombardier " Invitation" that ate Lasers for breakfast.... yum, yum... ~~(\_~~ Click to expand

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

@Hunter216 it does require your mind to stretch and that can be painful. Worse once stretched it is impossible to put the genie back in the bottle. Here is a brief and general idea of what is happening. The Length of the hull is used to calculate the hulls wave length. This calculation provides a theoretical "Hull Speed". Good so far? The hull speed and boat speed are not the same. Boat speed is dependent on the amount of friction the boat exerts against the water surface. The greater the friction the less the speed. Power (be it wind, electric or fossil fuel sourced) in large enough amounts can over come friction. OR... if you are clever you can design something that reduces the friction of the boat in the water. The foil idea is one that reduces the combined friction of the boat hull and the foil in the water. As you increase the power on a foil attached boat the foil lifts the boat reducing the friction of the hull, transferring the friction to the foil. The foil design has less friction than the hull. So the given amount of power is able to push the boat faster. Eventually to give the boat the appearance of flying over the water. Oh the magic of science.  

Do dolphins and tunas have a hull speed? Is this energy burden only an issue on the surface?  

Bobby... the surface I speak of is the surface of the boat against the water. The dolphin or a submarine, or tuna can have a calculated hull speed (so to speak). But now since they are totally submerged the calculation is less relevant. Of higher concern is the relationship of total surface friction to power capacity (energy burden)  

Simon Sexton

Will Gilmore said: Click to expand

Hunter216 said: turned into a treasure hunt for sunken beer Click to expand

Will Gilmore said: All hull shapes can plane Click to expand

jssailem said: The Length of the hull is used to calculate the hulls wave length. This calculation provides a theoretical "Hull Speed". Good so far? Click to expand

Will Gilmore said: if you are designing a planning hull, it would make sense to know how much power is expected to be needed to exceed hull speed Click to expand

Simon... While the idea is one of not likely, the concept is possible. It is all about the application of power. Most likely not a very good planing hull and in all likely hood beyond unstable. With the application of enough power you could get the hull. not likely the keel (it might even rip off the boat in the process) mostly out of the water and moving faster than the displacement 'hull speed'. That said not sure why you would want to, other than to test the theory. Note that hydroplanes lift out of the water and ride on their prop, based on their prop speed. With a displacement sail boat relying on sail power the only scenario that comes to mind would be riding down a Southern Ocean 60 foot swell (ok gravity is also at play) with a 50 knot wind pushing the boat and the sails are spread (right before they tear to shreds) and the boat crashes into the trough. The bow buries and the boat pitch poles. Vivid imagination eh?  

BobbyFunn said: Do dolphins and tunas have a hull speed? Click to expand

jssailem said: Vivid imagination eh? Click to expand

sailme88 said: A very good job was made in explaining the potential/theoretical hull speed. I may have missed it in all the posts, but it should be noted that the water line is not the static waterline length of a boat sitting at rest, rather the heeled and increased waterline. This line is a parabola that lengthens as a beamer hull heels. Click to expand

sailme88 said: Bombardier " Invitation" Click to expand

https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/a-scow wide bow/ huge rig = lots of speed with this design and no increase waterline length  

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Why Sunfish?

There are more flashy and many specifically well designed boats to sail but this early 1970s hard chine, lanteen rigged boat is perhaps the most affordable and inclusive one design sailboats ever built.

What is most impressive is that simple to rig and race such that juniors as young as 9 yrs old and seniors well into their 80s who weigh as little as105 lbs. to over 200 lbs. can compete at a world class level. No other singlehanded boat can so closely level the playing field, making age, gender and size relative non issues. Families have been doing this for over 40 years. See Brilliant photos of how to rig a Sunfish

Pictured (left) is the 43rd Sunfish World Championship in 2013, (conditions were somewhat less conducive to everyday racing, but not too much for this boat 😉

The Sunfish Class provides perhaps the most widely attractive one design racing on a world class level. As former world champions Eduardo Cordero and I feel compelled to support the Sunfish Class. particularly in that is how we met Aside from the competition, we both feel that many of our closest friends made over the years have become like family. Those relationships represent what Sunfish has meant to us and we hope that anything we might provide may help give others the opportunities the Sunfish Class has given us both. Here is a link to the International Sunfish Class – sunfishclass.org

How to Rig a Sunfish – by Eduardo

Halyard location:.

106″-107″ measured upwards on the upper spar starting at the point where the black cap meets the upper spar on the bottom. Lowering halyard location raises the height of the boom above the deck. This adds power to the sail. Increasing the distance from the bottom to the halyard location will do the opposite. Make sure the line does not slip. Apply electrical tape on top of it. * In light air, do not over tighten the halyard because it may cause the mast to twist.

Head location:

Measure 160″ on the upper spar starting at the point where the black cap meets the spar on the bottom and tie the head of the sail in this position. Keep the luff loose, so you have power for sailing downwind, especially in light air.

You can set the gooseneck between 12″ and 22″ but I recommend starting at 14″ or 16” from the point where the black cap meets the boom at the front.

• Locate Outhaul Cleat on starboard side of the boom at 64” (from the front of cleat to where the front end cap meets the spar.)
• Locate Cunningham cleat on bottom of the boom at 41” (from the front of the cleat to where front the end cap meets the spar.)

Aluminum cleats with roller fairlead work better. Use a thimble where you tie the loops on both controls, so it makes the line running smoother. Spray Mclube or dry lubricant on the spars. Do not spray Mclube on the gooseneck area (boom and mast)

Mainsheet: 33 feet of ¼ for light air or 5/16 for medium/heavy wind. 5/16 will be better as all-purpose line. (Polypropylene line with spectra core. e.g. Yale light, rooster ropes, or ultra light Samson.) My choice; ¼ rooster ropes. Don’t use polyester or dacron lines. They are heavier and soak a lot of water. Halyard: 24 feet of 3/16” or 1/8” spectra 100% ( AmSteel 12 – Samson) or any line with polyester cover and spectra or dynema core. …My choice would be 1/8 spectra, but it’s very skinny, so it’s hard to tighten. Outhaul: 25 feet of 7/64’’ spectra or dynema line (AmSteel 12 – Samson) Cunningham: 15 feet of 7/64’’ spectra or dynema line (AmSteel 12 – Samson) Replace sail clips with the 1,75 mm or 2,5 mm 100% spectra line. Leave 1/16″ or more of a gap between the spars and the sail grommets. Leave a bigger gap where the halyard is tied on the upper spar. Use longer sail ties (twice around the spars) on the clew tie-down, head, cunningham grommet and tack. * important: Replace supplied tiller extension with an longer one (about 42 inches)

Eduardo’s Tuning Guide

First of all, consider the four (4) primary adjustments to your rig/sail as wind conditions change..

• Mainsheet: Adjusts sail’s power; increases or decreases sail’s angle of attack.
• Outhaul: Flattens the bottom of the sail.
• Cunningham: Moves the draft forward
• Gooseneck: Balances weather helm.

1) UPWIND SAILING

1.1 light air :.

Mainsheet tension determines sail shape and/or power.

• Be mindful of over trimming the mainsheet. Tight trim will flatten the sail and tighten the leech; help pointing but stall much more quickly.
• Make sure the leech stays open enough to “breath for speed” when needed.
• The outhaul and cunningham are fine adjustments of sail shape
• For maximum power, ease both the Cunningham and outhaul.
• For flat water, you can apply tension to the outhaul to point higher.
• For choppy conditions, ease for power.

Heel the boat to leeward to promote weather helm. Set gooseneck around 14-16 inches. Sit forward to lift the stern of the boat but be aware of your own weight; you don’t want the bow to dip under water.

1.2 Medium Air :

Apply maximum tension on the mainsheet. If you have trouble pointing, mainsheet tension might be needed.Both Cunningham and outhaul are adjusted according to wind strength and waves. – More tension on the outhaul than on the cunningham if sailing in flat water. – More tension on the cunningham than on the outhaul if sailing in choppy water. Boat Heel/ Trim Keep the boat flat (Hike first, then think sail controls for de-powering) If the if the boat heels, it will create weather helm. Remember that you can balance your boat (decrease weather helm) by moving the gooseneck back. Use more Boom-vang if you have to ease the mainsheet when the waves cause the boat to loose speed. Vang is the best way to: .

• Keep tension on the leech.
• Keep the sail flat by pre-bending the spars.

Always FOOT for Speed

• if the waves are high. Pinching will reduce boat speed, and speed generates lift
• in fresh breeze the net effective lift is favorable

Flat water: Sit forward or about 1 or 2 inches from the cockpit’s forward edge. If it choppy, sit back to lift the bow until you feel confident about both helm and boatspeed. The sunfish hull is very low above the water, so at this point avoid dipping. Torque body fore and aft according to the waves.

1.3 Heavy Air :

Trim mainsheet according to puffs.

• The lighter you are, the more you have to “feather” the sail (or helm) to keep helm (and heeling) under control. Pull outhaul, cunningham and boom-vang tight to de-power the rig
• Adjust gooseneck according to your body weight (around 19-20 to 22 inches).
• If you are using a “Jens rig”, you can set the gooseneck to 17-18 inches.

NOTE: Keep in mind the asymmetrical sail.

• You can always trim the mainsheet harder on port tack (medium & heavy wind).
• On starboard, be aware how much mainsheet tension you have, especially in heavy wind.
• The boat sails faster on starboard tack in light air, but since the sail is fuller, it is more difficult to control in heavy wind.
• The opposite is true when sailing in port tack.
• Hike real hard to keep the boat flat>> in flat water sit around 3 inches from the forward edge of the cockpit. Move further back in choppy water.

2) REACHING

2.1 light air.

• Outhaul and cunningham loose for maximum power.
• Boom-vang tension> Wind strength will dictate tension, when in doubt, keep the leach open.
• Trim mainsheet according to wind angle; (use tell tales)
• Heel the boat to leeward when the rudder stalls; Sit forward to keep the stern out of the water (no dragging).

2.2 Medium air

• Cunningham loose for maximum power; Do not over ease the outhaul; this closes the leach and reduces exposed area as wind increases (check wrinkles along the boom).
• Boom-vang tension> Wind strength will dictate tension; keep the leach tight when it opens.
• Keep the boat flat; Slide your weight back as the boat starts planning in the puffs. Move forward in the lulls.

2.3 Heavy air

• Outhaul and cunningham: If you weight more than 160, always power the sail. (I normally ease the cunningham and keep some tension in the outhaul. Lighter sailors could keep both controls tensioned for depowering.
• Boom-vang tension> keeps the leach tight.
• Trim mainsheet according to wind angle; (use tell tales) Lighter sailors should feather the sail when overpower.
• Keep the boat flat; Sit in the back of the cockpit.

Powering up

• ALWAYS loose sail controls (outhaul-cunningham) before rounding the windward mark depending on your approach.

Sailing/trimming Technique:

• Sailing on starboard tack is faster most of the time because the sail is fuller.
• Starboard tack running allows you to sail at a wider range of angles (“by the lee” or broad reach) in most conditions.
• In light air be careful when sailing by the lee on port tack, It can be slower than starboard tack. (There’s a disturbance in the sail, created by the little triangle between the mast and the upper spar.)
• Tell tales or a wind indicator on top of the upper spar will be effective to determine which way the wind flows on the sail.
• Heel the boat to weather in light air, decreasing weather helm; less required as the wind increases.
• It is very important to keep the stern out of the water in light air>>sit forward (close to the centerboard trunk). As the wind increases and waves get bigger you must move your body aft. Your own weight will dictate how far back you need to sit. In most cases when the boat is planning, sitting behind the rear edge of the cockpit is faster. Remember to do the opposite as the wind and waves diminish.
• When surfing waves always focus forward on the wave pattern immediately to the right and left of the bow. Anticipate the best angle and intersection between waves. Head up for speed and look to anticipate the next wave or puff to accelerate downhill and sail by the lee. Learn how to synchronize mainsheet tension, helm and heeling angle. This is a difficult task but sure way to improve your boatspeed.

Vang control:

• The flexible spars make leech control tension challenging.
• Tighten the boom-vang to stabilize the boat on Runs (as the wind increases.)
• The boat is more responsive when balanced with the vang; for steering and when adjusting the mainsheet.

LETS CONNECT

SUNFISH OWNERS GROUP

Sunfish Enthusiasts, Day sailors to Racers

Sunfish Owners Group is formed for all those who seek the camaraderie of sailing, restoring, racing and owning the venerable Sunfish.  There is many sources of information relating to the Sunfish and this group supports ALL Sunfish owners.  Membership is free.

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How To Rig A Sunfish Sailboat

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The Sunfish Owners Group will help bridge the gap with ALL owners of Sunfish Sailboats. Our community can come together to explore recent news and past stories. Read on to see more about what’s been happening lately, and be sure to stay up-to-date with all the latest updates.

RADICAL FS RUDDER

Oct. 7, 2020

A brand new vertical Rudder is being made specifically for the Sunfish.  It will need the "newer" gudgeon bracket (which has been on sunfish for probably 40 years).  The company claims it has less weather helm, weigh half as much, improve speed with less drag.

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Sunfish Sail Rigging: A Step-by-Step Guide

Published by oceanwave on july 31, 2023.

Sailors all around the world love Sunfish sail rigging due to its popularity and simplicity. Both novice and expert sailors appreciate it because of its small size and simplicity of usage.

For optimum performance and a safe sailing experience, proper sail rigging is essential. The process of mounting the boat’s parts, such as the mast, boom, sail, daggerboard, and rudder, together with the related rigging lines, is referred to as rigging.

The goal of this guide is to give sailors a thorough, step-by-step approach to rigging a Sunfish sailboat, enabling them to get ready for a successful, fun voyage on the ocean.

Understanding the Components

The Sunfish sailboat is made up of vital parts that enhance its sailing ability. The sail, a single triangular sail, the boom, a horizontal pole that extends from the mast to the back of the boat, the daggerboard, a retractable centerboard that improves stability, and the rudder, a pivotal blade that directs the boat, are some of these parts.

For the sunfish sail rigging process to go smoothly, familiarity with the rigging lines is essential. The halyard, which raises and lowers the sail, the downhaul, which regulates the tension of the sail, and the outhaul, which modifies the sail’s shape, are important rigging lines. Proper sail trim and control depend on knowing the purpose of each line.

Sailors must take safety precautions before beginning the Sunfish sail rigging process, including donning the proper life jackets, making sure the area is free of dangers, and making sure all rigging lines and gear are in excellent working order.

Step-by-Step Rigging Process

Preparing the boat.

• To make access to the rigging simple, position the Sunfish sailboat on shore or in shallow water.
• Make sure the hull is dry and clear of water or debris to maximize the boat’s buoyancy.

Setting Up the Mast and Boom

• The mast step is at the front of the cockpit; carefully place it there. To keep the mast from moving while sailing, secure it.
• Connect the boom to the mast’s gooseneck fitting. The boom’s ability to pivot thanks to the gooseneck enables for sail modification.

Unfurling and Hoisting the Sail

• The sail should be spread out flat and unrolled on the ground.
• Make a secure connection between the halyard and the sail’s head while attaching it.
• Pulling on the halyard will hoist the sail, which you may then raise to the proper position and fasten.

Adjusting the Sail and Rigging Lines

Use the halyard and downhaul lines to precisely adjust the location and angle of the sail for optimal sail trim. Control the height of the sail by adjusting the halyard tension to make sure it efficiently catches the wind. You may alter the tension of the sail with the downhaul to get the ideal shape and curvature for performance.

Another essential rigging line that affects the foot of the sail is the outhaul line. To alter how tight or loose the sail is along the boom, adjust the tension on the outhaul. The speed and responsiveness of the boat can be considerably affected by proper outhaul adjustment.

Additionally, take into account modifying the rudder and daggerboard in accordance with the sailing conditions. In windy situations, lowering the daggerboard helps stability, while raising it in calmer waters boosts speed and reduces drag. For effortless steering and directional control, align the rudder properly.

Rigging the Rudder

The process of rigging the rudder entails fastening it to the boat’s stern gudgeon fittings. Make that the rudder is properly positioned and fits snugly. The gudgeons should keep the rudder securely in place while also enabling smooth pivoting.

To regulate steering, attach the tiller to the rudder. The tiller serves as the boat’s steering handle, allowing you to maneuver it left or right to alter the boat’s course. Verify again that the tiller is easily maneuverable and is firmly attached to the rudder head.

Final Checks and Safety Precautions

Make sure all rigging lines are securely fastened and adjusted before setting sail. Verify the cleats, fittings, and knots to make sure they can handle the forces encountered when sailing.

Make that the rudder and daggerboard are firmly attached. The stability and control of the boat can be impacted by a loose daggerboard or rudder, which could pose safety risks.

Double-check the boat for any potential safety hazards, such as loose hardware. Before setting sail, check the sailboat’s structure, rigging lines, and fittings for signs of deterioration and make any necessary repairs or replacements.

Tips for Optimal Performance

• Achieving optimal performance requires proper sail trim and control. Find the ideal settings for various wind conditions and sailing angles by experimenting with the rigging lines.
• Recognize how rigging modifications affect the performance of the boat. Speed, stability, and responsiveness can all be significantly impacted by even minor rigging configuration adjustments.
• Acquire knowledge from typical errors made when rigging the Sunfish Sail. For a more pleasurable and secure sailing experience, stay away from shortcuts and spend your time rigging the sailboat.

How to Rig a Sunfish Sailboat

Rigging a Sunfish sailboat is a simple procedure that includes a few important steps. Prepare the hull of the boat before positioning it on land or in shallow water. The mast should then be secured in the mast step before the boom is fastened to the gooseneck fitting on the mast. The sail is unrolled and raised using the halyard. Use the downhaul and outhaul lines to place and tighten the sail. Connect the tiller for steering after rigging the rudder by attaching it to the gudgeon fittings. Before setting sail, double-check all rigging lines and safety precautions.

How to Rig a Sunfish Sailboat Diagram

A Sunfish sailboat rigging diagram is a visual guide that shows you how to rig the sailboat step-by-step. Labeled schematics of the mast, boom, sail, daggerboard, rudder, and rigging lines are frequently included. Users are guided by the diagram through the proper rigging procedure, which includes putting the mast in place, hoisting the sail, and adjusting the lines. For novices or anyone unfamiliar with the rigging procedure, having a diagram is helpful since it guarantees that each phase is accurately carried out, resulting in a positive sailing experience.

Sunfish Sailboat Weight Limit

The suggested weight limit for the Sunfish sailboat is between 220 and 250 pounds (100 and 113 kg). The weight of the sailor(s) and any additional equipment or provisions on board are included in this restriction. The performance, stability, and safety of the boat may be compromised if the weight restriction is exceeded. For the sailboat to work at its best and to avoid potential damage, the weight restriction must be followed.

How Fast Can a Sunfish Sailboat Go

A number of variables, including wind direction, the ability of the sailor, and weight distribution, have a significant impact on the speed of a Sunfish sailboat. A Sunfish sailboat is capable of reaching speeds of up to 6 to 7 knots (about 7 to 8 mph or 11 to 13 km/h) in optimum sailing circumstances with a good sailor. It’s crucial to remember that the Sunfish is primarily made for leisure sailing rather than fast racing. Sailing enthusiasts will have a fun-filled and delightful experience because to its emphasis on agility, usability, and enjoyment on the water.

A thorough explanation of the Sunfish Sail Rigging procedure has been provided in this comprehensive guide, enabling sailors to confidently rig their boats for a successful cruise on the water

A suitable sunfish sail is essential for attaining the best performance and control possible while sailing. The sailing experience will be improved if you take the effort to comprehend and master the rigging procedure.

Sunfish Sail Rigging practice and confidence-building are promoted for sailors, enabling them to set out on a variety of exciting and enjoyable sailing activities.

To discover more about various liveaboard sailboats , yachts, and catamarans, check out this Sailboat Data page. You may discover comprehensive details on different sailboat models and their performance here, making it easy for you to pick the best boat for your requirements with Ocean Wave Sail !

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How Long is a Sunfish Sailboat?

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

August 30, 2022

The Sunfish is a popular small recreation and racing sailboat that’s meant for one or two people. But how long is a Sunfish, and what are its other dimensions?

A Sunfish sailboat is 13 feet and 9 inches long, which is equivalent to 4.19 meters or 419 centimeters. A Sunfish has a beam (width) of 4 feet and 1 inch, 1.24 meters, or 124 centimeters.

In this article, we’ll cover the dimensions of a Sunfish sailboat and why the design measures out as it does. Additionally, we’ll cover other characteristics related to length, such as the size of the trailer needed for towing and the height of the mast.

We sourced the information in this article directly from Laser Performance , which is the company that currently manufactures Sunfish sailboats.

Table of contents

‍ Sunfish Sailboat Length

The Sunfish is a small sailboat that’s designed for one or two people, though it’s most comfortable with a single operator. The overall length of the Sunfish is 13 feet and 9 inches, or 4.19 meters. This puts the Sunfish squarely in the “dinghy” length category, though it handles nothing like a dinghy.

Despite being the same length as a typical sailing dinghy, the Sunfish is significantly faster and more nimble. But why is there such a big difference, and what does length have to do with it? The key to the Sunfish’s performance lies in this shape and design.

Sunfish Sailboat Overall Dimensions

The sun Gish has a narrow beam of just 4 feet and 1 inch, or 1.24 meters. With the centerboard up, the Sunfish draws only about 6 inches of water—meaning it skims right on top of the water with very little drag. Compare this to a typical sailing dinghy, which draws much more water over a wider stance.

With the centerboard down, the Sunfish has a draft of 3.33 feet or 1.01 meters. However, 90% of that is simply because of the thin centerboard—which helps the boat track straight and creates virtually no forward drag.

Sunfish Cockpit

Sunfish sailors sit on the deck and secure their feet in the cockpit, which allows them to lean over the water when the boat catches the wind and begins to heel aggressively.

This is necessary, because remember, the Sunfish is a racing dinghy. The Sunfish cockpit is a little over three feet long and just a couple of feet wide, though precise dimensions vary slightly between years.

Sunfish Mast and Boom Length

Virtually all Sunfish masts are made of 2-inch diameter hollow aluminum tubing. The standard length of a Sunfish mast is 10 feet or around 3.05 meters. The Sunfish boom is longer than the mast and measures 13 feet 8 inches or 3.96 meters. The spar is also the same length as the boom, and both are made with about 1-inch thick aluminum tubing.

Is the Sunfish Faster than Longer Boats?

The Sunfish has the potential to be faster than some longer sailboats, despite the traditional limitations of hull speed. This is because the Sunfish is small and has a very minimal displacement.

It doesn’t plane like a speedboat per se, but its flat bottom allows it to get lift and glide across the water with minimal hydrodynamic interference. On a brisk and windy day, the Sunfish can beat many larger displacement sailboats in terms of speed.

The Sunfish’s speed advantage also comes from its large sail area, which is significant for its small size and displacement. This 13-foot sailboat has a sail area of 75 square feet or 7 meters squared.

These characteristics also make the Sunfish somewhat difficult for novices to control, as it’s easy to get overpowered by a strong gust.

Sunfish Trailer Dimensions

Many kinds of boat trailers have hauled around Sunfish sailboats over the years. Generally speaking, the best trailer size for a Sunfish is one that hauls a maximum-sized boat of 14 feet. These trailers usually have an 800-pound capacity and are made of steel or aluminum.

The minimum length of the bow eye to the transom on these trailers is between 7 feet 8 inches and 10 feet. These trailers also vary in length, but they’re usually between 16 feet and 18 feet long. The largest Sunfish trailers are about 22 feet long, and these are usually designed to carry larger and heavier boats.

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How to Rig a Sunfish Sailboat

Table of Contents

“As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases at no additional cost to you”

The Sunfish is arguably the most popular sailboat on the planet. Its popularity is characterized by its inexpensive price, easy portability (probably the only car-toppable sailboat), and easy to rig and sail with just one control line.

But our focus today is on one critical part – how to rig a sunfish. If you just bought your first Sunfish sailboat, sit back and read through this complete step-by-step guide of rigging this kind of dinghy . I hope you already know the parts of a dinghy but if not, well, that’s a topic for another day.

And off we go:

1: Point the sailboat’s bow into the wind. Why? To keep the sail over the Sunfish when it is raised. This will avoid hitting other people or boats with the booms and make it easier to affix the mainsheet.

2: Lay the spars and sail on the sailboat with the mast ring toward the bow.

3: Untie the sail/spar bundle knot and pull the line to undo the bundle. The spars and sail are usually bundled using the mainsheet and halyard.

4: Attach the Boom Sling. Find a spot around fifteen inches below where your halyard meets the upper boom. Pull one side of the Boom Sling around the upper boom and the halyard. Pull the line through the loop to capture the halyard and upper boom. Now, pull the other end of the line to where the lower boom and upper boom meet, and slide the loop over the end of the boom and into the notch formed by the bolt joining the booms.

5: Properly align the mast and boom. Make sure the boom is on the port side of the mast.

6: Ensure the halyard is running directly from the upper boom to the top of the mast and through the hole at the top of the mast.

7: Be sure that the sail is lying towards the port side of the sailboat, and that the mainsheet isn’t wrapped around anything, but just lying below the lower boom.

8: Align the mast, lower and upper booms so that the mast ring is directly over the mast step.

9: Raise the mast and gently place it in the mast step in the deck. Don’t forget to keep hold of the halyard and make sure it’s running neatly through the masthead fairlead from the back to the front.

10: Guide the end of the halyard via the fairlead to starboard of the mast.

11: Pull the halyard to raise the spar and the sail. Reach down and lift the gooseneck ring so the sail can go all the way to the top of the mast.

12: Tie a cleat hitch in the halyard around 2ft above the cleat and then feed the halyard tail through the cleat hitch and bring it down to fit over the cleat. This helps secure the sail.

13: Ensure the mainsheet runs through all the available sleeves on the boom to stop it from hanging down and catching your neck during tacks and gybes. Tie a cleat knot preferably a figure 8 around the cleat and secure the final turn with an extra twist.

14: Lead the excess halyard tail through the deck fairlead, over the gooseneck and back via the fairlead. Pushing the lower spar down a bit while holding onto the halyard tightly will restrict the spar from rising in harsh winds.

15: Tie another cleat knot on the deck. This one is crucial just in case you capsize as it will keep the sail from falling off the sailboat and sinking. You can tie the extra halyard to the junction of the upper and lower spars with a bowline.

16: Now, run the mainsheet through the ratchet block at the front of the cockpit. Keep in mind that the block only runs in one direction, so be sure to check that first. Tie a stopper knot or figure 8 at the end of the sheet so that it doesn’t get away while you sailing.

17: Tie the other end of the mainsheet to the bridle with a bowline.

18: Fasten the bungee cord affixed to the daggerboard around the mast and then clip it to itself. This is to ensure that the daggerboard stays in the sailboat, as well as supply tension to hold the daggerboard in a partially raised position.

19: Attach the rudder and put the centerboard in its place.

20: Jump in, launch, and go sailing!

And that’s it as far as rigging a Sunfish sailboat is concerned. A piece of advice here is that you need to know at least three types of knots to successfully rig a sailboat: a cleat hitch, a stopper knot or figure 8, and a bowline .

Before you go, let me answer a few frequently asked questions about Sunfish sailboats.

How much is a sunfish sailboat?

A new Sunfish sailboat will set you back at least $4,500 while a used one in good condition will usually fall in the range of $900 to $1,200.

In the case of used boats, there are few things to be keen on. Firstly, a decent used boat should have a smooth hull, uniformly firm with no soft areas, and without deep imperfections or holes.

from PxHere

Secondly, the sailboat ought to be dry sailed, meaning it must have been stored on land, off the ground, and under proper shelter throughout the time when it was not being used. The reasoning behind this is that boats left in water or carelessly stored gain weight quickly, and weight is something you want to keep at a minimum when sailing. I won’t recommend a used Sunfish for competitive sailing unless it’s within a few kilograms of the weight of a new one.

How fast can a sunfish sailboat go?

Now, let’s first be clear that ‘fast’ is always relative because different factors come into play to determine how fast you can go. For instance, a general rule of thumb has it that a lighter boat sails faster than a heavy one. Also, a longer sailboat will record a higher maximum speed than a shorter boat.

What’s more? Boats tend to sail slower in cold waters than in warm waters, and shallow waters decrease boat speed too as the vessel sinks more and has to displace more water out of its way.

Another thing to remember is that Sunfish sailboats are casual-style boats, and so you might want another option if you’re after the need for speed. All in all, a sunfish sailboat can clock 11 knots in favorable conditions. Keep in mind that the official Laser sailboat speed record is 16.8 knots, and Lasers tend to be faster than Sunfish.

How heavy is a sunfish sailboat?

A new Sunfish is typically 120 pounds (54kg).

How to transport a Sunfish sailboat?

Nearly all Sunfish sailboats are cartoppable, thanks to their small and lightweight designs. Simply install the right equipment on the top of your car, such as roof rack and straps, and you’ll find it a doddle transporting your Sunfish. Alternatively, you can buy a trailer and it will save you the work of loading and taking down your sailboat.

How to clean a sunfish sailboat?

Now there’s no formula on how to clean a Sunfish sailboat or any sailboat for that matter. But let me give a few tips on how I do it. I realized that beginning from the topmast to the sails and down to the keel is pretty efficient. Be sure to use non-harmful detergents too.

To clean the sail, first set it down on a clean, flat area. Add some liquid detergent into a bucket of warm water and brush the sail gently to remove debris. You can also clean the sail with your hands, though this process is time-consuming.

As for the hull, I tend to use a pressure washer with a gentle nozzle to remove the worst of the dirt. I then mix a bucket of water and laundry detergent and wash the entire hull using a scrubber or kitchen sponge. Next up is rinsing the whole thing using a clean sponge and plenty of clean water after which I let it dry. Note that your hull (especially fiberglass) might require extra maintenance depending on how dirty and greased it is. Perhaps an extra polish or wax to keep looking nice.

The mast and boom can always do with some scrubbing with soapy water and giving them a good rinse. Bleach can be used to remove tough stains such as mildew.

To cut a long story short, most cleaning involves the use of soapy water, a mild detergent, and a sponge. Just make sure to follow instructions as per the cleaner of your choice.

The Sunfish sailboat is loved by all and the small matter of how to rig a Sunfish is now done and dusted. When the wind is good, just take to the water and have fun zipping about. If you have any additional questions or feedback, feel free to leave a comment below.

PS: Interested in the best drysuits for dinghy sailing ? Check out our guide here!

Happy sailing!

Bill is an ISA Sailing & Powerboating Instructor in Ireland. He writes about all things sailing.

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Is the SOL Sailboat a Sunfish? Let’s Set the Record Straight!

September 3, 2024.

We get it—our SOL sailboat, built by SERO Innovation, does bear a striking resemblance to the classic Sunfish. In fact, we’ve heard it all: “Is this a Sunfish?” “Is this the new Sunfish?” “Did you copy the Sunfish?” So, let’s dive into the details and clear up the confusion.

The Short Answer: No, the SOL is Not a Sunfish.

But we totally understand why you might think so! The SOL was born from a deep love for small, fun sailboats like the Sunfish, but also from our frustration with the market gap and the inconsistent quality we were seeing in recent years. How do we know this? Because our sister company, Sunfish Direct, has been the largest importer of Sunfish for the past decade. We’ve seen firsthand the changes in the market, and at SERO Innovation, we thought, “What if we could take what we love about the Sunfish and make it even better?”

Why We Built the SOL

The Sunfish has been a beloved part of the sailing world for decades. It’s a boat that’s easy to sail, easy to love, and offers a ton of fun on the water. But over time, we noticed that the Sunfish wasn’t quite what it used to be. We saw an opportunity to improve on this classic design while keeping the spirit of simplicity and fun alive. So, SERO Innovation designed the SOL—a sailboat that keeps the joy of sailing intact while addressing the quality and availability issues that have been frustrating sailors. 

What Makes the SOL Different?

While the SOL might look similar to a Sunfish at first glance, there are key differences that set it apart:

• Spacious Open Cockpit: The SOL’s open cockpit design offers more space and versatility, making it an excellent choice for instructors or for taking a couple kids out on the water. It’s perfect for teaching or simply enjoying a day of sailing with family and friends.
• Customizable Features: The SOL is all about showcasing your style. Choose the sail, blades, handles, padding, splash guard, and accessories that match your unique style. From non-skid padding and extended splash guards to a variety of sails, you can customize your SOL to fit your preferences and needs, making your sailboat truly one-of-a-kind.
• Compatibility with Sunfish Components: The SOL was intentionally designed to be compatible with all Sunfish components. The sail, blades, and spars are identical, so you can easily interchange parts, making the SOL a practical choice for individuals, along with camps, clubs, and sailing schools, who already own Sunfish gear.

There’s Room for Both Boats in the Market

We’re not here to replace the Sunfish—we’re here to offer an alternative. If you’re looking to race in the official Sunfish Class, then the Sunfish might be the right boat for you. However, if you want a recreational boat for your cottage or a fun, durable fleet of boats to teach kids (or adults!) how to sail, the SOL is a great option. 

So, the next time you see our SOL sailboat out on the water, remember: It’s not a Sunfish, but it’s got the same spirit of fun and adventure that has made the Sunfish a sailing icon. We think there’s plenty of room for both in the sailing world.

Happy Sailing!

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• Sailboat Guide

1971 AMF Alcort Sunfish

• Description

Seller's Description

Selling a beautiful AMF Alcort Sunfish sail boat. The Sunfish is in amazing condition and was stored indoors by the original owner for many years. It is complete and ready to sail. The gel coat has a great shine and the hull is dry, light and stiff. No damage or repairs. Mahogany rudder and daggerboard. Classic red and white color combo. The Sunfish just uses two lines and sets up in about five minutes. Easy to car top or put in the back of a truck. $2600. Call (845)-558-5270

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Although the earliest models were built of wood and offered as kits, the fiberglass version, first introduced in 1960, became the most popular recreational sailboat in history. As a result, there were many imitators.

Sunfish Builder Chronology 1952 - 1969 Alcort, Inc. (founded 1945) 1969 - 1986 AMF 1986 - 1988 Loveless & DeGarmo, dba, Alcort Sailboats Inc. 1988 - 1991 Pearson Yacht Co. 1991 - 1997 Sunfish/Laser, Inc. 1997 - 2007 Vanguard 2007 - Laser Performance Change in class rules permitted a new, slightly deeper daggerboard in the mid-1990’s.

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