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Moscow on the hudson: best russian eats in manhattan.

I was your typical rebellious Russian immigrant child growing up in Texas. I didn’t drink, I didn’t smoke and I didn’t get B’s on my report cards. Instead, I committed a much greater sin, at least as far as Russian mothers are concerned: I rejected my home country’s cuisine.

The worst was when I would have friends over to my house. My mom would prepare a big Russian spread complete with Salat Olivier, pickled cabbage, caviar sandwiches and radishes for garnish. How embarrassing!

I just wanted to fit in, OK?! So sue me. I would beg my mother nightly to make Pasta Roni for dinner.

Secretly, though, I loved Russian food, and I’d fill up on salty herring leftovers when no one was looking. What’s not to love about it? I’ve always wondered why Italian and Chinese cuisines are mainstream, while most Americans can’t even name one item off the Russian menu. I mean, Russian food is so salty. It’s so fishy. It’s so . . . mayonnaise-y! Oh. Did I just answer my own question?

By my teen years, I came out of the Russian-food closet and began openly enjoying everything my family cooked: pelmeni, caviar and blinchiki, beef stroganoff, borscht — I was in heaven!

But things went bleak when I moved to Manhattan in 2010. Feasts of the motherland were not constantly accessible to me. So, spurred on by the Winter Olympics in Russia, I set out on a mission. Dreading the long shlep to Brighton Beach’s Little Odessa, I was determined to find the food of my family in Manhattan.

The Russian Tea Room (150 W. 57th St.; 212-581-7100) was my first stop. Even the grand atmosphere couldn’t distract from the fact that they were in it to please American tourists more than anyone. The only truly Russian thing in the whole place was our waiter Sasha, who, when my friend said, “I’m good,” to signal she’d had enough on her plate, responded sternly, “You not good,” and continued serving her until the plate was perfect by his standards.

Judging by the sweet flavor in the borscht — a traditionally savory beet soup — this isn’t a restaurant that keeps the Russian palate in mind. I could almost sense my grandpa rolling in his grave when Sasha presented us with what was supposed to be pelmeni — a veal dumpling dish served in broth with sour cream — but was actually a truffle tortellini Alfredo dish you’d expect to see at a homey Italian restaurant.

I moved on to Russian Samovar (256 W. 52nd St.; 212-757-0168), where the crowd was far more interesting than the food, which is actually a good thing. Russian food doesn’t need to be creative to be impressive; if the recipe’s right, you’re golden. And you’re free to focus on the thing Russians appreciate most, and what Russian Samovar does best: entertainment. The live music, the plethora of infused vodkas, and the friendly one-eyed owner will make sure you have a night to remember (or forget, depending on how many vodka shots you’re forced to take). But be advised: The 10 p.m. crowd gets down, even on a Tuesday.

When I stepped into Onegin (391 Sixth Ave.; 212-924-8001) in the West Village, I was slapped in the face with gaudy. And I couldn’t help but notice how empty it was. I later learned from Sergey, the host, that this is because people only go to Onegin at night to party, seldom during the day. He even proved it by showing me rowdy videos on his smartphone from just the night before.

If you’re able to get past the décor, you’ll find Onegin is not any different from your typical Russian human: abrasive at first, but after some time and hard liquor, charming and warm. Once the food arrived, I knew I’d found my spot — or was that the fig- and gooseberry-infused vodka shot that the waiter insisted I take talking? Either way, from the beef stroganoff to the golubtsy (a staple beef-stuffed cabbage dish), this place tasted like home.

It wasn’t until I spent a late Monday evening at Mari Vanna (41 E. 20th St., 212-777-1955) that I knew I’d hit the sweet spot of Russian restaurants — that perfect melding of atmosphere, food and people. The Flatiron spot is so quintessentially Russian, I felt like just being there made up for all of the Russian language lessons I skipped in grade school. My parents would beg to differ.

Striped wallpaper, tilted lampshades and off-white tablecloths made me think I was sitting in my babushka’s kitchen for a second. I was brought back to reality when I saw a girl standing up, dancing aggressively and singing along to a Russian pop song. Everyone else at her 12-person table was sitting quietly, enjoying dinner.

And the dinner was definitely enjoyable. The most memorable dish was the borscht, served on a wooden plank with small bowls of various fixings, like chopped egg, sour cream, onion and garlic. The only borscht I’ve ever had that was better than this was my mom’s, to be honest*.

I didn’t know this before I got there, but Monday is Mari Vanna’s most popular night. Gradually getting louder and darker, the quaint restaurant slowly transforms into a full-blown nightclub. I really don’t know one person who has the kind of job that allows them to rage on a Monday night like this, but if you do, you know where to go.

Needless to say, I had to end my night early**, but I’ll definitely be coming back — probably on a late Saturday night when I can eat my dinner in peace.

*This borscht was better than my mom’s. She doesn’t read footnotes.

**I did not end my night early.

Roosevelt boathouse housed 'Icicle,' world's largest ice boat

Located on the east bank of the Hudson River along River Point Road in Hyde Park is a long, wood-frame structure that once served as a boathouse for John Aspinwall Roosevelt, uncle of former U.S. President Franklin D. Roosevelt. The parcel of land the building sits on was once part of an estate named Rosedale, which was owned by the late president’s grandfather, Isaac.

Beginning in the mid- to late-18th century, wealthy families from New York City started to acquire large tracts of land to establish estates, many in Hyde Park. Names such as Bard, Roosevelt, Rogers, Langdon, Astor, Vanderbilt and Mills were among the most prominent.

DATELINE: 1790 Dutch barn unique in style, one of few left in area

A popular pastime for many of them became ice yacht racing along the Hudson River. While it proved to be exciting spectator sport for residents in the area, the activity was quickly dubbed a “rich man’s hobby.”

Following the death of Isaac Roosevelt in 1863, his son John inherited Rosedale and had the boathouse erected to house his vessel, named Icicle. A champion ice yacht racer, Roosevelt’s boat — at 68-feet, 10-inches long and boasting a sail spread of 1,070 square feet — was the largest ice boat in the world at the time.

“Icicle is now owned by the New York State Museum and is currently on loan to the Maritime Museum in Kingston,” said Jeffrey Urbin, education specialist at the FDR Presidential Library and Museum. 

The boathouse featured six casement windows, a paneled wooden door and a board and batten-hinged door. The lower portion of its northern end was constructed of stone. The design of the boathouse was crafted specifically to store Roosevelt’s ice yacht fleet while the space available above was occupied by sails.

The building’s double-pitched roof provided additional space in the loft. In his younger years, Franklin Roosevelt stored his 28-foot-long ice yacht, named Hawk, in the structure; the boat was a Christmas gift from FDR’s mother, Sara, in 1901.

In 1861, at 21 years old, John Roosevelt founded and became the commodore of the Poughkeepsie Ice Yacht Club and in 1885 he founded and held the same position with the Hudson River Ice Yacht Club; both organizations still exist today.

The area the boathouse occupies became known as Roosevelt Point and during the latter part of the 19th and early 20th centuries was used as the starting point for many world class races held along the river. With a smaller version of the original Icicle — this one spanning 50 feet with a 750 square-foot sail area — John Roosevelt won the Ice Yacht Challenge Pennant of America in 1888, '89, '92 and '99.   

An additional structure that no longer exists at the site but once sat just south of the boathouse was known as the Roosevelt Point Cottage. Built in the 1850s as a tenant dwelling on the estate, records indicate that from 1877 through 1886 it was occupied by Rosedale’s gardener, Robert Gibson.

The cottage maintained a front room that featured a stove, in which ice yacht enthusiasts could find warmth while waiting for a favorable wind to take their vessels on the river.

“Ice yachting went into decline after 1912 as other pursuits, such as the automobile and airplane, captured the fascination of the public,” said John Sperr, of the Hudson River Ice Yacht Club. “World events were also a factor in the demise of ice yachting on the Hudson as the onset of World War II found it necessary to keep the river open in winter so the large munitions and war material produced in Troy, Watervliet and Schenectady could be readily put into service.”

The land the boathouse occupies was separated from Rosedale during the 1950s, when single family homes were built on the former estate. Today, along with Isaac Roosevelt’s house (located closer to Route 9), the boathouse remains vacant but an original remnant of the thriving 19th-century estate.

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Hudson River Boat & Yacht Club Association (HRBYCA)

The Hudson River Boat & Yacht Club Association, Inc. (HRBYCA) was established in April 1975 and incorporated in the State of New York on March 16, 1999.

It was organized as an advocate for the more than 5,000 boaters of our 33 member clubs and for the purpose of:

• Maintaining a constant study of all things pertinent to the boating lifestyle, other recreational use of the Hudson River and improving conditions thereon;
• Promoting increased inter-club activity among various clubs on the Hudson River;
• Encouraging and furthering education relative to boating, navigation and boater safety;
• Cooperating with all government agencies concerned with the management and regulation of the Hudson River;
• And with boating matters in general.

Reciprocation Policy between MHCYC & HRBYCA.

Please remember reciprocation is offered as a courtesy, not all clubs may have the facilities or available dock space to accept your vessel. All attempts will be made to provide Members one complimentary overnight stay at a participating Member Club.

Contact the respective club you wish to reciprocate with to ensure they can/will provide dockage within the reciprocal program.

Document the advance notice with a reservation and if requested, provide a current membership card upon arrival.

HRYBCA  Hudson River Boating Guide. 

https://indd.adobe.com/view/a0122349-078a-49a3-936b-bf87cf047c96

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Event Details

America's Cup sailing is around the corner. Did you know it has ties to North Jersey?

The Olympics are over, but the oldest competition in international sports is just around the corner.

The America's Cup sailing event, founded in 1851, returned on Thursday with a preliminary regatta off the coast of Barcelona that sets the stage for a one-on-one final in October.

One of the challengers is a homegrown one: the New York Yacht Club.

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Now headquartered deep in the heart of Manhattan, hosting club regattas out of Newport, Rhode Island, and having its racing team training in Pensacola, Florida, the club and America's Cup originator was initially based on the Hudson River. Its first clubhouse was in North Jersey.

Built in Hoboken in 1845, the Gothic cottage first stood by the waterside at Elysian Fields, near the bluff that holds Stevens Institute of Technology. John Cox Stevens, the club's first commodore, donated the land at the foot of 11th Street. His brother, Edwin Augustus Stevens, founded the university. Both were involved with the creation of the first winner of the America's Cup, a yacht named America.

America's Cup's founders

The brothers came from one of the most distinguished families in U.S. history. Their grandfather served in the Continental Congress, and their father, John Stevens, was a Revolutionary War colonel who became a pioneering entrepreneur and an inventor of steam engines and boats.

From their mansion overlooking the Hudson River and Manhattan Island, the colonel and his sons developed the first steam ferry to cross the Hudson. When Robert Fulton secured a monopoly on Hudson River steamship navigation, the Stevens family shifted its focus to other lucrative ventures. In 1809, the family's vessel Phoenix became the first steamer to operate offshore when it began service in Philadelphia.

Five years earlier, in 1804, a 19-year-old John Cox Stevens piloted the first propeller-driven boat. Shortly thereafter, he built a sailing yacht called Diver and raced it against fishing boats and ferries in New York Harbor for wagers. In 1844, he and his friends founded the New York Yacht Club aboard his yacht Gimcrack.

The clubhouse, which was modest compared with the club's current Beaux-Arts landmark in New York City, served as the center of club activities for 23 years, records show. That span covered the development, construction and trials of the yacht America.

America's Cup has North Jersey origins

The yacht America was designed by George Steers, a self-taught innovator of yacht design, to challenge the best in the United Kingdom. Its cotton duck sails were sourced from John Colt's mill in Paterson. When the yacht made it to Britain's Isle of Wight, the Royal Yacht Squadron organized a fleet race on Aug. 22, 1851. The winner received a silver trophy valued at 100 pounds sterling. They called it the Hundred Guinea Cup. It is now known as America's Cup, after the yacht that won it.

Within two months, John Cox Stevens and the syndicate that owned America had sold it and given the trophy to the club. The cup came with conditions. According to its formal Deed of Gift, it must serve as an everlasting prize for “friendly competition between foreign countries.” The cup's holder must welcome challengers.

The first challenger was the Royal Thames Yacht Club and a yacht called Cambria. The competition held in New York Harbor on Aug. 8, 1870, was won by the New York Yacht Club. The club went on to win every America's Cup match thereafter until 1983.

By then, the clubhouse was long gone. It survived calls for demolition in the early 20th century and in 1904 moved from its home just north of Castle Point in Hoboken to Glen Cove, Long Island, to serve as "Station 10." At a time, there were 11 stations along the club's racing and cruising route where members could land and load.

Vastly different competition

For the second half of the 20th century, the clubhouse was on loan and on display at Mystic Seaport, the maritime museum in Connecticut. Since the start of this century, it has sat on the grounds of the club's racing base Harbour Court, in Newport, Rhode Island. The club's America's Cup yacht, called Patriot, was built and designed in Rhode Island.

A far cry from America, a 101-foot schooner that was used by the U.S. Navy during the Civil War, the 75-foot-long Patriot relies on a pair of hydraulic hydrofoils on either side of the hull to seemingly fly above the ocean's surface at speeds of more than 50 miles per hour. Due to that technology, the modern America's Cup is a vastly different competition from what it was just 20 years ago. Still, at its core, the cup remains an event in which wind-powered vessels must chart an ocean course to victory.

The last cup was a disaster for the New York Yacht Club, which in team American Magic had one of three challengers for the title held by the Royal New Zealand Yacht Squadron. That cup's Patriot capsized in the round-robin qualifiers and, after major repairs, finished last in the event.

America's Cup 2024

This year, five challenger teams are taking on the cup holders from New Zealand. They include American Magic and the new Patriot, led by Olympic gold medalists Tom Slingsby, who won for Australia, and Paul Goodison, for Great Britain.

The first look at them in action comes during the final America's Cup preliminary regatta from Aug. 22 to 25. The match racing event will feature four races per day, with the top two yachts, technically classified as AC75s, advancing to a one-race, winner-takes-all final.

The results of the preliminary regatta have no impact on the America’s Cup standings. Still, they were crucial for shaping team strategy.

The New Zealand team, as the cup defender, has a straight path to the America's Cup, held from Oct. 12 to 21. The five defenders, however, must face off in the Challenger Selection Series from Aug. 29 to Oct 7 for the right to compete in the America's Cup best-of-13 match race final.

The races will be streamed free on the event’s website, YouTube and Facebook. Coverage is also available in the U.S. on ESPN+.

Challenger Teams for the 37th America’s Cup

• INEOS Britannia (Great Britain).
• Alinghi Red Bull Racing (Switzerland).
• Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli Team (Italy).
• NYYC American Magic (U.S.).
• Orient Express Racing Team (France).

Preliminary Regattas

• The preliminaries were held August 22 to 25, 2024, in Barcelona, Spain.

2024 Challenger Selection Series

• Aug. 29 to Sept. 8: Double round robin
• Sept. 14 to 19: Semifinals (best of nine).
• Sept. 26 to Oct. 7: Finals (best of 13).

2024 America’s Cup

• Oct. 12 to 21: 37th match (best of 13)

This article originally appeared on NorthJersey.com: America's Cup sailing is around the corner. Did you know it has ties to North Jersey?