iwc portugieser yacht club blau

An Old Acquaintance: Reviewing the IWC Portugieser Chronograph

IWC has added several new models to the Portugieser family in recent years. One of them is the iconic chronograph. In this latest visit to the WatchTime archives, we tested this watch, our good old friend, which boasts a trendy green dial and is equipped with a manufacture caliber.

The Portugieser is one of IWC’s oldest and most prestigious product lines, with a dial that has hardly changed over 80 years. “That’s why we approached the project of designing the new collection very carefully and with tremendous respect for history,” Christoph Grainger-Herr, CEO of IWC, and Creative Director Christian Knoop explained.

The Portugieser’s Handsome Dial Remains Nearly Unchanged The impressive result puts every doubt to rest. Glancing at the attractive face of the Portugieser Chronograph, you instantly recognize a cherished old acquaintance, although the dial of our test watch is now a trendy green, and plays with the light. Another version comes with a burgundy dial. There’s also a boutique edition with an elegant blue dial and a rose-gold case.

The very distinctive, clear and functional dial is 38 mm in diameter and has recessed counters at 6 and 12, slim feuille hands and applied Arabic numerals. These features have so strongly influenced the Portugieser chronograph that even in the new version, no designer dared to replace the partly cut-away numerals 6 and 12 with arguably “simpler” index strokes. Comparing this latest update to the last fine tuning about 10 years ago, we find that the calibrations on the counters with inward-facing numerals, the lettering, and the slender quarter-second scale on the flange have all remained unchanged. As a whole, the latest version of this timeless watch retains its own character and remains loyal to its origins as a time-measuring instrument — not least because of the finely calibrated elapsed-seconds scale. With three intervening strokes between each pair of full-second lines, its markings correctly match the 4-Hz rhythm of a modified version of a movement from IWC’s recent 69000 caliber family.

IWC’s Favorite, at Last with a Manufacture Caliber Designated as number 69355, this caliber is the essential new feature in the latest Portugieser chronograph. As one of the most popular items in IWC’s portfolio, now it’s finally equipped with a manufacture caliber. This was not yet the situation a decade ago, when the still-young Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph was given a manufacture movement from the 89000 caliber series, which was introduced in 2007. The 69000 caliber family, which made its debut 10 years later, underwent four years of further development and was encased for the first time in the Ingenieur Chronograph in 2017.

With the newly designed 69000 caliber series, IWC is gradually replacing chronograph movements based on the ETA/Valjoux 7750 and at the same time offering a less costly alternative to the 89000 series of manufacture calibers. Our test watch comes with a $7,950 price tag. The least costly variant of the new Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph with Caliber 89361 sells for $12,100. Paying the additional charge also gets you a flyback function and a longer power reserve of 68 hours. The power reserve of Caliber 69355, on the other hand, is rather short by contemporary standards, at 46 hours, and this caliber relies on an index to adjust its hairspring’s active length — a simpler method of finely adjusting the rate than the eccentric screws on the rim of Caliber 89361’s balance in the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph.

Otherwise, chronograph Caliber 69355 similarly offers a sturdy and precise column wheel to control the stopwatch functions, a rocking pinion to couple the chronograph with the flow of force from the gear train and a modern bidirectional effective self-winding mechanism. This automatic winding, however, is not the Pellaton mechanism (named after the former IWC engineer) that’s installed in the calibers of the 89000 series, but a modern development from the Richemont Group.

The Movement’s Rate Upholds the Promise of Quality The positioning of the subdial for the continually running seconds at the 6 is unusual because most chronographs put this indicator at the 9. While other modifications of Caliber 69000 have a counter for 12 elapsed hours at the 9, it’s absent from the Portugieser chronograph, as is the date across the dial at the 3. With reference to this watch’s history and to further enhance the harmony of its design, this newest Portugieser only has a 30-minute counter at the 12 and no luminous material on its numerals, indexes or hands.

Turning the timepiece over and peering through its back, where four screws affix the sapphire crystal, you can discover numerous details typical of IWC’s caliber construction, e.g., circular patterns in Geneva-stripes style, satin finishes, circular graining and a skeletonized rotor engraved with the words “Probus Scafusia.” Our test confirmed that the automatic movement upholds this promise of quality. It ran extremely well and achieved well-balanced rate values. Its performance on the wrist was similar to the rate measured by our timing machine when the watch was fully wound. Timekeeping in chronograph mode is likewise impeccable, with an average daily deviation of about 1 second.

The Portugieser Chronograph Reflects Timelessness and Modernity The stopwatch functions are controlled by pressing mushroom-shaped push-pieces. The pressure points here are secure and the buttons run smoothly to reliably trigger the column wheel. The knurled crown is user friendly and can easily be pulled outward into the hand-setting position. These components complement the classic Portugieser case, which reveals its conical contours when viewed from the side. The narrow, polished bezel extends beyond the middle part of the case, thus providing plenty of space for the dial. The screwed back tapers toward the sapphire crystal with a concave edge curve. The case’s laterally satin-finished middle section slopes very strongly downward to the strap lugs. All this, together with the high-quality alligator leather strap and its convenient butterfly folding clasp makes it comfortable to wear on the wrist.

A quick look at the wrist immediately offers a pleasant surprise because our “good old friend” now indulges in a lively play of colors. Viewed through its domed and anti-reflective sapphire crystal, the dial doesn’t appear green from every angle, but changes its appearance from dark green to nearly black, which endows this classic watch with understated elegance. Whether by coincidence or on purpose, in this way too the Portugieser chronograph embodies the timeless modernity for which IWC is known and appreciated.

SPECS: Manufacturer: IWC Schaffausen, Baumgartenstrasse 15, 8200 Schaffausen, Switzerland Reference number: IW371615 Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph (central elapsed- seconds hand, counter for up to 30 elapsed minutes) Movement: IWC 69355 based on caliber family 69000, automatic, 28,800 vph, 27 jewels, Glucydur balance, Nivarox hair-spring, Etachron fine adjustment via bi-partite index, Incabloc shock absorption, 46-hour power reserve, diameter = 30.0 mm, height = 7.90 mm Case: Stainless steel with domed sapphire crystal above dial anti-reflectively treated on both sides, sapphire crystal in caseback, water resistant to 30 meters Strap and cla­­sp: Black alligator leather strap with double folding clasp Rate results (deviation in seconds per 24 hours, fully wound/after 24 hours: On the wrist +1.6 Dial up +3.1 / +1.4 Dial down +2.5 / +0.0 Crown up -0.5 / -3.5 Crown down +4.1 / +4.4 Crown left -0.3 / -0.8 Greatest deviation 4.6 / 7.9 Average deviation +1.8 / +0.3 Average amplitude: Flat positions 321° / 292° Hanging positions 296° / 267° Dimensions: Diameter = 40.95 mm, height = 13.08 mm, weight = 90.0 g Variations: With burgundy dial (Ref. IWC371616; $7,950); Boutique Edition with rose-gold case, blue dial and blue strap (Ref. IW371614; $17,800) Price: $7,950

A very interesting and professional article. Generally think the portugieser, especially with the manufactur movement, is a Wonderful watch with is pretty much underrated.

Brilliant watch and hard to evaluate. I have a 2001 version, unworn and in a wooden box. It is a limited edition split second model and not worth a lot as with many high end watches. As with most IWCs hard to better and very underrated.

Love this watch! From the first time I saw it in the metal, I wanted it. I have the blue dial 150th anniversary version which I just adore.

My son got one 20 years ago and is still very happy with this wonderful timepiece. Within my vast collection I have various IWC, including a priceless D’Avinci, and hold the marque in very high esteem.

Nice watch, but for the price asked I`d probably buy something else…

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Gentleman Sailor: Testing the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

11 Jun 2022

Watchtime Usa

Contributing Writer

The new IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is a watch you can wear with confidence anywhere at the marina. A first glance shows that the third generation of the sportiest Portugieser model, our test watch, is designed to be both a nautical timepiece and a luxury accessory. The first impression of this IWC diving watch is confirmed upon closer inspection of its polished and satin-finish case, sunburst blue dial and brightly polished hands. Every component is flawlessly finished and worthy to be part of the supremely elegant Portugieser collection. 

For the first time in its 10-year history, this Portugieser Yacht Club boasts a steel bracelet rather than a rubber or leather strap — a sturdy but elegant IWC steel bracelet with brushed outer links and polished inner links. Shortening the bracelet involves simply pressing a button on the back of each row of sturdy links to remove it. Unlike simpler bracelet designs, using screws or hammering is not needed. 

Inside the safety folding clasp of this IWC  diving watch, there is also a quick extension piece that quickly and easily lengthens the bracelet by up to 7 mm.  Pressing the polished ‘IWC’ button on the outer bar of the clasp extends the bracelet in seven increments — without ever removing the watch from your wrist. Two safety buttons round out the sturdy and well-designed folding clasp. 

Detailed Modifications 

In addition to the bracelet, the dial has also been updated. The central chronograph hand is now steel-grey instead of red, and the date window has been shifted from the 3 o’clock position to the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Both changes enhance the elegance of the Yacht Club and were well received by our editorial staff. 

The elegant impression is diminished, however, by the enlargement of the already considerable stainless-steel case from 43.5 mm to 44.6 mm.  Our editorial staff admitted that no one among them had a wrist to match its substantial dimensions. 

Even so, the large, heavy watch is quite comfortable to wear thanks to ergonomically shaped sloping lugs and a supple steel bracelet. Unfortunately, the flexibility and adjustability of the IWC’s bracelet results in relatively large gaps  between the links, which can catch and pull hair. 

Proven Technology 

Components taken from earlier generations of the Yacht Club include the sturdy and powerful in-house movement, Calibre 89361, with many excellent features like a 68-hour power reserve; a traditional column-wheel control mechanism; the brand’s own exceptionally efficient Pellaton dual-pawl winding system; a free-sprung, temperature-resistant Glucydur balance wheel; and a flyback function for the direct restarting of the running chronograph. It can also show off beautiful decorative finishes, gold-enhanced engraving and a gold IWC medallion on the skeletonised oscillating rotor.

Another feature of the in-house movement of  IWC diving watch  is the combined 12-hour and 60-minute counter in the upper half of the dial, which is intended to show elapsed time intuitively, as on a clock. The combined counter is too small for everyday use, however, and its markings are too fine to read elapsed time to the minute quickly and easily. The chronograph seconds track around the dial is also extremely fine, and the central chronograph seconds hand is insufficiently long to fully reach it. In sum, it’s a mixed bag, with clearly legible time and date, and elapsed time that is much more difficult to read. 

Accurate Rate 

Our rate test revealed more about the Swiss movement. The electronic timing machine showed a negligibly small daily rate of +0.8 seconds, a maximum deviation between the positions of only 4 seconds and almost the same values when the chronograph is engaged. A two-week wearing test confirmed the small daily deviation with values between zero and +2 seconds — making our test watch a reliable partner for everyday use. 

In addition to the movement, another feature of the Yacht Club that hasn’t changed arouses mixed feelings — the pressure resistance of six bar that corresponds to water pressure at a depth of 60 metres. Although this may sound like a lot at first, the water resistance as it is tested under laboratory conditions is rather low for a nautical luxury sports watch linked to the world of sailing. Coming in contact with spray or waves means a watch should be resistant to at least 10 bar or 100 metres to ensure a certain degree of security in a variety of different environments. And even though this still isn’t a lot, it is the current standard for any water sports watch not explicitly designed for  diving . 

Advice for boat owners is simply this: It’s better to wear this watch in the evening, below deck, or to dinner at the marina, and either take it easy onboard during the day or rely on a sports watch that is clearly defined as such. The new  Portugieser  Yacht Club Chronograph is well equipped for normal everyday wear and light sports activities — and is the perfect gentleman sailor for social events on or below deck.

This story first appeared in WatchTime US, and was then carried in WatchTime India. To subscribe, click  here .

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Introducing The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

Ahoy, matey a trio of sports chronographs are pulling into port.

IWC is putting the cal. 89361 to work in the third generation of the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, a take on the stainless steel sport watch that's in trend right now. The bracelet has an "integrated" look, blending seamlessly with the lines of the case. However, it's affixed in a traditional manner to the case; the lugs are just slightly more compact, lending an uninterrupted aesthetic to the whole package. The nautical flavor and the stainless steel trend are ripe for a blue dial, and the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Ref. IW390701) delivers, with a sunburst navy blue dial and rhodium-plated hands. 

Continuing the lineup is an execution with a silver-plated dial (Ref. IW390702) done in the style of old pocket watches and marine chronometers. Visually, the watches feature elements that point directly to the maritime heritage. 

But there's one execution in this family that goes in another direction, and this watch, Ref. IW390703, is rendered in a glorious two-tone combination of 18k 5N gold and steel. All three models have a water-resistance rating of 60 meters, quite respectable for a flyback chronograph. 

Lest we forget, one of the early applications of mechanical watch and clockmaking was to aid in seafaring navigation. The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph directly tips its proverbial hat to that heritage, but stays on-trend in 2020 with a look that's proven very popular: a svelte sports watch with an integrated bracelet. The cal. 89361 is a fitting movement for the platform, manufactured in-house, with flyback functionality and showing the elapsed minutes and hours in a single totalizer at 6 o'clock. The automatic chronograph movement comes in a 44mm case.  

The market segment that this watch plays in is crowded indeed, but the Portugieser name has a certain equity that makes it stick out in a way that other brands scrambling to make a stainless steel sports watch simply do not have. After all, the Yacht Club has been around for a decade now. 

Brand: IWC Model: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Reference Number: Ref. IW390701, Ref. IW390702, Ref. IW390703

Diameter: 44mm Thickness: 14.4mm Case Material: Stainless steel case for all three executions.   Dial Color: Sunburst Navy Blue (Ref. IW390701), Silver (Ref. IW390702), Silver(Ref. IW390703) Indexes: Arabic Numerals Lume: Super-LumiNova Water Resistance: 60 meters Strap/Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet (Ref. IW390701, Ref. IW390702) and stainless steel and gold (Ref. IW390703)

Caliber: cal. 82835 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, Power Reserve: 60 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 vph/4 Hz Jewels: 22  

Price: $13,100 (Ref. IW390701, Ref. IW390702) and $19,900 (Ref. IW390703) Availability: TBD  

For more, click here.

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IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Steel Blue Dial 44.6mm IW390701 Full Set

Case Size: 44.6

Dial Color: Blue

Reference Number: IW390701

Collateral: Full Set

Band Material: Stainless Steel

Case Material: Stainless Steel

Movement: Automatic

Sku: 700-01791

Choose options

Review IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown”

IWC Schaffhausen  and  Orlebar Brown have announced back in July their collaboration piece, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” . Due to the travelling and general restriction imposed by the infamous COVID19, I have seen the watch in the metal just at the end of August. Even if the summer is over, the “Orlebar Brown” Portugieser Yacht Club deserves to be presented – a lovely addition in the Portugieser Collection and a nice collaboration. 

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown”

I loved this watch from its digital launch. So I was very happy to finally get to see it at IWC Geneva Boutique during the Geneva Watch Days. The watch looks much better in the metal than the pictures reveal so if you are interested, I recommend to see it live.

Portugieser at heart, Portugieser in the look

The Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is one of those more special Portugieser – while keeping the known general aspects, some details are personalised by the Orlebar Brown collaboration.

The watch comes in a large 44.6 mm stainless steel case. Its dimensions are not obvious, the Edition “Orlebar Brown” wearing, as all the Portugieser large pieces, smaller than expected.

The case is designed to fit comfortable a large variety of wrist sizes. The caseband integrates the inward bent lugs. Even the brushing is extended on the lugs’ sides for a homogenous look. The rest of the surfaces are mirror polished. The strap integration is realised without any empty spaces.

The IWC Probus Scafusia decorated crown is surrounded by a raised polished crown protection. The protection bump also integrates the chrono pushers. The pushers have a wide but relatively thin topper. The entire appearance is nicely designed. The case details are quite handsome.

One of the eye-catching details of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is the strap. The blue rubber strap with textile inlay looks charming and offer very comfortable wear. It contributes to the smaller wear of the elegantly-proportioned case.

The buckle bears the sign of the IWC and Orlebar Brown collaboration deeply engraved in the metal. This buckle offers a secure sit on the wrist and it is a nice combination for the watch and strap.

A dial inspired by sea and sailing

The IWC Yacht Club “Orlebar Brown” has a gorgeous dial combining bleu-marine, white and red. With a vertical layout, the watch has a handsome face. The 12 o’clock areal presents the 60 minutes and 12 hours chronograph totaliser. The stepped down sub-dial presents two registers: the minutes counter on a circular pattern with white and red printing; the hours’ counter is central with printing on a flat surface. The elements are well delimited and offer good legibility. The chronograph’s seconds indication is realised with a central red hand that runs against the white inner bezel with blue printing.

The time display uses central hours and minutes elongated leaf hands with skeletonised centre and SuperLuminova fill. The hours’ indexes have double representation: applied metal Arabic numeral with the Portugieser known font and short baton indexes with SuperLuminova fill – another rather familiar detail. The minutes use a white printed railtrack that can also serve as an indication for the central chrono hands for an ease in legibility.

The lower side of the dial, at 6 o’clock, presents the running seconds. The subdial is subtly recessed and it is decorated with a circular pattern in the same granulation as the one met at the chrono’s minutes’ counter. The indexes and numerals are printed in blue. The date is printed in black on a white background and can be easily observed via a windowed aperture, as part of the small seconds’ dial.

As additional decoration, the dial of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” bears the name of the brand at 3 o’clock and the “Yacht Club” name at 9 o’clock. The Swiss-made marking is displayed at 6 o’clock as a break in the minute’s railtrack.

Calibre 89361 – a classic IWC movement

The Orlebar Brown Yacht Club is powered by the impressive Calibre 89361. This automatic movement powered by a 4Hz balance wheel offers an impressive set of features like the flyback chrono, hacking seconds, quick set date and a long power reserve of 68 hours due to its double barrel design and bi-directional winding.

Calibre 89361 is used in several IWC families for chronographs: Ingenieur, Da Vinci, Aquatimer , Pilot and, of course, Portugieser . The movement uses a double-clutch design with a vertical clutch for coupling and a column wheel for actuation. The combination of the two decreases the wear of the gear train with an increase of reliability over time. The system also helps the overall chronometry by decreasing the loss of amplitude by the chrono’s activation. Looking at the winding mechanism, I was wondering if this is the four pawl system patented by Jean-Francois Mojon and Norberto Perucchi fifteen years ago?

The movement does not particularly excel on the finishes side. Mostly industrial but fine and well-executed, the adornment of the Calibre 89361 deserves a look through the exhibition case back.

It has the looks, it has the brains

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is a beautiful watch with a pleasant layout and nice colour scheme. The look can be overshadowed only by the technically impressive in-house movement, the Calibre 89361. The back offers a compelling view too.

Definitively, it has a sporty appearance. Regardless if worn as a daily driver, at the beach or by sailing, the watch offers comfortable wear even for smaller wrists.  I have an 18cm/7inch wrist and I usually tend to stop at a diametre of 41-42mm. But I didn’t realise how big the watch actually is. So a strong point for a small wrist to give it a chance.

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” Technical Specifications and Price

REF. IW390704

• Chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds
• Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock
• Flyback function
• Date display
• Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
• Small hacking seconds
• 89361 Calibre
• IWC-manufactured movement
• Automatic, self-winding
• 68 hours Power Reserve
• Frequency 28800.0 vph (4.0 Hz)
• 299 Components
• Côtes de Genève, perlage
• Stainless steel case
• Diameter 44.6  mm
• Height 14.3  mm
• Screw-in crown
• See-through sapphire glass back
• Water-resistance 6 bar
• Blue dial with luminescence
• Blue rubber strap with textile inlay
• Strap width 22 mm
• 11.800 € , Price includes taxes and shipping.

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iwc portuguese yacht club blue

Gentleman Sailor: Testing the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

IWC launched the Portugieser Yacht Club in 2010 into the sporty yet elegant world of sailing. For 2020, the nautical chronograph model has a classic look and a steel bracelet upgrade. We give it a thorough review in this feature from the WatchTime archives.

The new IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is a watch you can wear with confidence anywhere at the marina. A first glance shows that the third generation of the sportiest Portugieser model, our test watch, is designed to be both a nautical timepiece and a luxury accessory. The first impression is confirmed upon closer inspection of its polished and satin-finish case, sunburst blue dial and brightly polished hands. Every component is flawlessly finished and worthy to be part of the supremely elegant Portugieser collection.

For the first time in its 10-plus-year history, this Portugieser Yacht Club boasts a steel bracelet rather than a rubber or leather strap — a sturdy but elegant IWC steel bracelet with brushed outer links and polished inner links. Shortening the bracelet involves simply pressing a button on the back of each row of sturdy links to remove it. Unlike simpler bracelet designs, using screws or hammering is not needed.

Inside the safety folding clasp, there is also a quick extension piece that quickly and easily lengthens the bracelet by up to 7 mm. Pressing the polished “IWC” button on the outer bar of the clasp extends the bracelet in seven increments — without ever removing the watch from your wrist. Two safety buttons round out the sturdy and well-designed folding clasp.

Detailed Modifications In addition to the bracelet, the dial has also been updated. The central chronograph hand is now steel-gray instead of red, and the date window has been shifted from the 3 o’clock position to the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Both changes enhance the elegance of the Yacht Club and were well received by our editorial staff.

The elegant impression is diminished, however, by the enlargement of the already considerable stainless-steel case from 43.5 mm to 44.6 mm. Our editorial staff admitted that no one among them had a wrist to match its substantial dimensions.

Even so, the large, heavy watch is quite comfortable to wear thanks to ergonomically shaped sloping lugs and a supple steel bracelet. Unfortunately, the flexibility and adjustability of the IWC’s bracelet results in relatively large gaps between the links, which can catch and pull hair.

Proven Technology Components taken from earlier generations of the Yacht Club include the sturdy and powerful in-house movement, Caliber 89361, with many excellent features like a 68-hour power reserve; a traditional column-wheel control mechanism; the brand’s own exceptionally efficient Pellaton dual-pawl winding system; a free-sprung, temperature-resistant Glucydur balance wheel; and a flyback function for the direct restarting of the running chronograph. It can also show off beautiful decorative finishes, gold-enhanced engraving and a gold IWC medallion on the skeletonized oscillating rotor. Another feature of the in-house movement is the combined 12-hour and 60-minute counter in the upper half of the dial, which is intended to show elapsed time intuitively, as on a clock. The combined counter is too small for everyday use, however, and its markings are too fine to read elapsed time to the minute quickly and easily. The chronograph seconds track around the dial is also extremely fine, and the central chronograph seconds hand is insufficiently long to fully reach it. In sum, it’s a mixed bag, with clearly legible time and date, and elapsed time that is much more difficult to read.

Accurate Rate Our rate test revealed more about the Swiss movement. The electronic timing machine showed a negligibly small daily rate of +0.8 seconds, a maximum deviation between the positions of only 4 seconds and almost the same values when the chronograph is engaged. A two-week wearing test confirmed the small daily deviation with values between zero and +2 seconds — making our test watch a reliable partner for everyday use.

In addition to the movement, another feature of the Yacht Club that hasn’t changed arouses mixed feelings — the pressure resistance of six bar that corresponds to water pressure at a depth of 60 meters. Although this may sound like a lot at first, the water resistance as it is tested under laboratory conditions is rather low for a nautical luxury sports watch linked to the world of sailing. Coming in contact with spray or waves means a watch should be resistant to at least 10 bar or 100 meters to ensure a certain degree of security in a variety of different environments. And even though this still isn’t a lot, it is the current standard for any water sports watch not explicitly designed for diving.

Advice for boat owners is simply this: it’s better to wear this watch in the evening, below deck, or to dinner at the marina, and either take it easy onboard during the day or rely on a sports watch that is clearly defined as such. The new Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is well equipped for normal everyday wear and light sports activities — and is the perfect gentleman sailor for social events on or below deck.

SPECS: Manufacturer: IWC Schaffhausen, Baumgartenstrasse 15, 8201 Schaffhausen, Switzerland Reference number: IW390701 Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, flyback chronograph with combined 60-minute and 12-hour counter, date Movement: In-house Caliber 89361, automatic, 28,800 vph, 38 jewels, hack mechanism, quick date adjustment, Incabloc shock absorber, column wheel, fine regulator with screw weights, Glucydur balance, 68-hour power reserve, diameter = 30 mm, height = 7.5 mm Case: Stainless steel, domed sapphire crystal with anti-glare coating on both sides, screw-down crown, threaded caseback with sapphire crystal viewing window, water resistant to 60 m Bracelet and cla­­sp: Stainless-steel bracelet with safety folding clasp and quick extension Rate results (deviation in seconds per 24 hours, with chronograph switched off/on): Dial up 0 / +1 Dial down +3 / +2 Crown up -1 / -2 Crown down +2 / +2 Crown left +2 / +3 Crown right -1 / -3 Greatest deviation 4 / 6 Average deviation +0.8 / +0.5 Average amplitude: Flat positions 287° / 273° Hanging positions 257° / 236° Dimensions: Diameter = 44.6 mm, height = 14.3 mm, weight = 170 grams Variations: With silver dial (Ref. IW390702, $13,100); with stainless-steel and rose-gold case and bracelet (Ref. IW390703, $19,900) Price: $13,100

SCORES: Strap and clasp (max. 10 points): Very attractive, highly functional stainless-steel bracelet with safety folding clasp and quick extension. Large gaps between links. 9 ­­­ Operation (5): Generously sized, smoothly operating pushers are easier to use than the screw-down crown. The large crown is easy to turn but needs some force to pull out. The chronograph has a flyback function for direct restart of an ongoing timing sequence. 4 Case (10): The case is beautifully finished but is rather simple and water resistant to only 60 meters. 8 Design (15): Attractive combination of sportiness and elegance. The superior quality of every component is easily apparent. 14 Legibility (5): The time and date are both easy to read, but elapsed time presents more difficulty. Bright luminous material. 4 Wearing comfort (10): The heavy watch lies comfortably on the wrist, but the metal bracelet catches fine wrist hair. 7 Movement (20): The in-house caliber stands out with its column wheel, Glucydur balance, fine regulation, extended power reserve, efficient dual-pawl winding mechanism and attractive decorations. 17 Rate results (10): The watch can boast absolute reliability with an average daily gain of 0.8 seconds and a maximum deviation between the positions of 4 seconds. Individual values are similar even when the chronograph is engaged. 9 Overall value (15): IWC has created a luxury chronograph at a high price, but it has a lot to offer. 11 Total: 83 POINTS

Thank you for the review

I, along with many people like a larger diameter watch. I have a wrist size that is 8 inches. Anything smaller than 42-43 mm looks small to me. I think this watch is a beauty.

Beautiful execution of details. Good to see that IWC decided to upgrade the Portugieser from quasigirly watch to man-sized. It’s hardly an Arni watch though.

I would buy this watch in a second (no pun intended) except for the high price. As for the increased diameter, I have a large wrist and do not buy watches less than 43 mm. Smaller diameters look terrible on me. If you need a large diameter watch reviewer, let me know. Thanks.

Two big problems for me. The size (too big), very few people have wrist size like Arni, water tightness 60m is a joke.

I really like this IWC watch, however, it’s shallow water resistance at the price, is a non-starter. IWC is certainly capable of increasing the water resistance range.

I always enjoy my Watchtime magazine when it arrives, and the email updates. Regarding IWC’s new Yacht Club, I think it is a beautiful watch. I have a large wrist, so, I will not wear a watch under 43mm. Smaller watches look too small. I do have trouble with the 60 meter water resistance, but find myself looking at this watch over and over in your magazine. That is when I know I want it. Hope to order one in the near future.

I’m veary interested in watches and would love to know more about them. I would like to see , the new modells.

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Portugieser

• IW3905-07 : Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph 43.5 Stainless Steel / Blue / Summer Edition

IWC - IW3905-07 Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph 43.5 Stainless Steel / Blue / Summer Edition

Price in euro

Iwc iw3905-07 description.

The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph was introduced in 2015. It features a case that is slightly smaller than the previous Yacht Club models, from 45.4 to 43.5 millimeters. It is powered by the IWC-manufactured 89361 calibre with 68 hour power reserve. It features a small seconds display at 6 o'clock. Reference IW3905-07 was added to the collection in 2018 as part of a new 'Summer Editions' collection. It features a blue dial with silver subdials and a blue rubber strap.

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Review: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph – The perfect summers’ watch?

Ah, it summer-time! The sun is shining, birds are singing and you need a summer wrist-companion. Comfort, sportiness and perhaps something trendy? If one were to screen through the IWC collection, chances are they’d pick the Ingenuier or the versatile Pilot. But would you consider a Portugieser. Here, we bring you a in-depth look at one such example: the 2018 IWC Yacht Club Chronograph. It checks all those “summer-ready” boxes (if there is one), on paper at least . But, how does it stack up?

Review: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

OK, so it is summer all year long in Singapore…all the more the enjoy. IWC announced the new Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph in July 12, 2018. Here is our hands-on review.

The Case, Dial and Hands

Despite several key differences in stylistic design cues, the Yacht Club Chronograph is still instantly instantly recognisable as being part of the Portugieser collection.

The 43.5mm stainless steel case shares several design traits with the classic Portugieser chronograph. Despite its increased size, the watch still wore comfortably on the author’s wrist.

The watch features a round stainless steel case which measures 43.5mm in diameter. Granted, a rather generous proportion, but one that is not new to the brand. It shares several design traits with the classic chronograph: the case shape, pushers and crown looks identical. However, where the Portugieser family is best suited for dressing up, the Yacht-Club is all for enjoying the water; oceans, boating (and desk diving!). Its appearance is rather sporty, with a maxi-sized case, thick bezel and crown guards. Despite its size, the watch wore really well: it sat comfortably on the author’s (smaller than average) 5.5″ wrist with good all-round weight distribution. Furthermore, the 14.2mm case thickness ensured a pleasant wrist presence without being overbearing.

A healthy blend of polished and brushed surfaces ensures a sporty-elegance flair: flashy without being brash. Also seen here is its case thickness of 14.2mm: a comfortable size while providing sufficient wrist presence.

Finishing is a visual and physical treat: the case has a healthy blend of meticulously polished and brushed surfaces, ensuring a bright and seductive appearance. A sporty-elegance flair perhaps; flashy without being brash. Finally, the corners and sides features smooth, sensual curves with no ‘rough edges’.

The sunburst blue dial is rather handsome, sporting contrasting white sub dials. We enjoyed its overall cleanliness and sleek appearance.

The dial is the highlight of this watch, sporting a striking sunburst blue with contrasting white sub dials. The top and bottom counters records hours/minutes-elapsed and running-seconds respectively. They don a circular pattern and sits slightly recessed into the dial for better depth. Its printing is somewhat busy with two scales, but we had no issues with readability. In fact, the entire dial features a rather unadulterated and sleek appearance: no ‘handy reminders’ of specifications or certifications – a detail that is greatly appreciated. Additionally, we enjoyed the subtle, charming touches such as the distinct red chronograph seconds hand. Overall a well balanced dial with effective use of negative space.

A rather striking dial, but not one without minor complaints. One of them is the truncated number ’11’. Another is the upside-down markings on the sub dials.

To top it off, the sporty mien is accompanied by polished  appliqué  arabic numerals – one that adds an elegant flair to the watch. Extending outwards are 13 hour-markers. And complimenting them is a set of  feuille  (leaf)-shaped minute and hour hands. Both the hour-markers and hands have been filled with SuperLuminova which ensures good legibility in all situations.

There were several minor complaints however. Some may prefer that the top sub dial be made slightly smaller to avoid cutting off the ’11’ numeral (think Portugieser Chronograph Classic). Another is the ‘flipped’ markings on the counters. That said, these minor niggles do not detract much from its overall looks.

Turning the watch over, we find a see-through sapphire case back. The watch comes on an accompanying blue rubber strap with metal keeper. One interesting note about the rubber is the motif underneath which prevents slippage while on the wrist.

The Movement: IWC 89361

Inside the Yacht-Club houses the IWC 89361 calibre – an in-house manufactured chronograph movement. It boasts an impressive 60-hours power reserve and beats at 28,800 bph (4Hz). Furthermore, this self-winding movement features a flyback function and date complication. Finishing is well executed entirely with haute horology decorations such as Côtes  de  Genève  (Geneva Stripes) and perlage (circular graining).

The in-house IWC 89361 calibre is a flyback chronograph boasting a 60-hours power reserve. Finishing appears to be done to a high engineering standard. Nonetheless, an obvious choice for movement.

The chronograph pushers feels pronounced upon activation and winding was smooth with good tactile feedback. This movement can be found across IWC’s portfolio of chronograph watches as well as other iterations of the Yacht-Club, thus its choice appears to be a no-brainer.

Competitive Landscape

The IWC Portugieser Yacht-Club Chronograph “Summer Edition” has a recommended retail price of S$17,900. It’s priced appropriately, in-line with other sporty and versatile chronographs . If one is looking for a summers’ timepiece, the choices are endless. Here, we bring you a non-exhaustive list of timepieces which are as competent of transitioning seamlessly from ocean jaunts to cocktail parties.

Summer-ready: the Yacht Club has an appearance that is sporty yet trendy.

We kick things off with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph . When it comes to luxury sports watches, the Royal Oak is the undisputed industry icon. The iconic octagonal case was conceived by none other than Gerald Genta himself. The current iteration is fitted on a rubber straps and are available in a slew of funky colour variations. Its not just all looks without brawn, as the watch is rated to a depth of 300 meters. Highly recognisable (and desirable) on land yet able to perform out at sea – a perfect summer’s timepiece indeed. The ROO Diver Chronograph is priced at S$31,900 .

Rolex Yachtmaster II ( ref. 116680 ) : a watch considered by many Rolex enthusiasts to be the most unapologetic (some call sacrilege) of the brands’ conservative stable. Ostentatious is an understatement as its 44mm case with shiny  ceramic bezel and polished center links is the opposite of subtility. Yet, it remains as a technical masterpiece, housing one of Rolex’s most complicated calibres: a flyback regatta timer with memory. Admittedly not very useful for the ordinary folks, but as a sporty watch, it is rather capable with good legibility and wrist presence. Also makes for an excellent summer statement-timepiece. (Fun fact: It is the largest commercially-available Rolex watch alongside the Deepsea .) The Yachtmaster II has a recommended retail price of S$25,120 .

The Rolex Daytona ( ref. 116500LN )  – perhaps the most ‘”exclusive” watch on this list. It’s sized at 40mm and powered by the calibre 4130 in-house column wheel movement. An excellent choice all year round. The Daytona is priced at S$16,660 .

Another option is the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph 5968A – the 179-years old maison’s sportiest line. Launched during Basel 2018, it’s the first Aquanaut to sport an in-house chronograph movement. Its case is sized at a contemporary 42.2mm and has a thickness of 11.9mm. The watch is delivered with two abrasion and UV-resistant composite straps: a black which is standard-issue and a rather un-Patek bright orange. Still, its price is  very -Patek at SGD57,700 .

A mid-range piece is the Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue. It’s a rather cool-looking chronograph, with a refreshing white dial and striking blue-orange accents. Powering it is a Tudor-modified ETA 2892 movement which delivers a 42-hours power reserve. The Heritage Chrono Blue retails for S$5,880 .

For the budget conscious, we propose the Seiko Prospex Turtle SRPC91 “Save The Ocean”. Robust build, in-house movement and a handsome blue waves motif dial. It offers an incredible quality-to-price ratio, if there is one. Can you go ever wrong? The Turtle retails at  €450 .

There’s much to like about the 2018 IWC Portugieser Yacht-Club. The contrasting blue dial and white sub dials is visually clean and appealing. Its design draws heavy inspiration from the classic Portugieser Chronograph and is rather aesthetically pleasing. The chronograph and date complications serves a functional purpose. Finally, the accompanied blue rubber strap is comfortable and completes the “summer package” look.

An area to nitpick would be the finer attention-to-details. In addition, its upsized case might not sit well with some, though as mentioned, it is comfortable on the author’s wrist. Nonetheless, the Yacht-Club is a very handsome piece which (almost) manages to be the perfect summers’ wrist-companion.

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Good review. I like the look of this watch, but my experience with IWC after sales (not only in Singapore) has been quite disappointing.

I don’t think a “summer” watch should be anything less than 10ATM water resistant. It is 2018 and it should easily be able to withstand a dip in a pool, lake or ocean

Could have added a changeable strap to it.. could be a rubber one but a little more contrast / jazzy types…

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Introducing The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition 'Orlebar Brown'

Just in time for summer, a new sport watch and resort wear collection..

This year at IWC has been all about the refreshed Portugieser line of nautically inspired timepieces, which harken back to an important wristwatch made by IWC that used a large and accurate pocket watch movement. Today, we have a special edition of the sporty Portugieser Yacht Club to mark a new partnership between IWC and the British swimwear brand Orlebar Brown. 

Orlebar Brown was founded after its Creative Director, Adam Brown, detected a disconnect between what typically well-dressed guys wear socializing and what they tend to put on when they go to the pool. While changing from a pair of swim trunks into something more appropriate for lunch, a light went on, and Brown realized he wanted a pair that would look great away from the pool too. When you look at a pair of Orlebar Brown swim trunks, you can see how traditional tailoring influences their construction. Side tab adjusters and a four-part shaped waistband keep things refined, fresh, and stylish when heading from an afternoon at the pool out to drinks with friends. Though the company's swimwear collections are regularly refreshed on a seasonal basis, each suit comes with a five-year guarantee. They're swim trunks made to look great and to last.

Earlier this year, IWC dropped three main line models as part of its 2020 focus on the Portugieser line. Aesthetically, the new special edition version bridges the designs of the blue dial and silver-plated dial variations that we covered back in April. It does this while dispensing with the stainless steel bracelet in favor of the rubber strap with co-branded buckle seen above.

A white toweling blazer with blue piping from the new Orlebar Brown x IWC capsule collection.

The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition "Orlebar Brown" is being launched right in time for summer, alongside Orlebar Brown's new nine-piece resort wear capsule collection, designed with IWC. With its nautically influenced design, rubber strap, and custom co-branded buckle (which is fashioned after an Orlebar Brown side tab adjuster), this feels like a fun twist on a perennial favorite from the IWC Portugieser collection.

One of my favorite things about IWC's cal. 89361 flyback chronograph movement is its impact on the display. It allows for a clean and symmetrical two sub-dial layout while integrating chronograph hours and minutes into the upper sub-dial and reserving the lower one for a small hacking seconds. Usually, a chronograph would need three subdials to convey this much information. 

The Portugieser is, of course, a watch whose formidable size is one of its most distinctive design elements, and this watch is certainly a Portugieser in that regard. At nearly 45mm in diameter, it could be a bit overwhelming to those who only wear watches on the smaller end of the spectrum. Still, it has a very classic design, and the fact that it's a sporty chronograph on a rubber strap makes me think that this could be a pretty killer watch for these current warmer months.

Brand: IWC Model: Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition "Orlebar Brown" Reference Number: IW390704

Diameter: 44.6mm Thickness: 14.4mm Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: Blue and silver-plated dial Indexes: Rhodium-plated appliques Lume: Yes Water Resistance: 6 bar Strap/Bracelet: Blue rubber strap with textile inlay

Caliber: IWC 89361 Functions: Hours, minutes, small hacking seconds, flyback chronograph with chronograph hours and minutes in sub-dial at 12 o'clock, date Power Reserve: 68 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 vph Jewels: 38

Price: $12,500 Availability: July 2020

For more on the watch, click here , and for more on the capsule collection, click here.

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Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown”

Stainless steel case, Automatic winding, Diameter 44.6 mm, Blue / White dial with luminescence, Blue rubber strap with textile inlay, Strap width 22.0 mm.

Watch Details

• Stainless steel case
• Diameter 44.6 mm
• Height 14.3 mm
• Screw in crown
• See-through sapphire glass back
• Water resistance 10.0 bar

• 89361 Calibre
• IWC-manufactured movement
• Automatic winding
• 68 hours power reserve
• Frequency 28'800 VPH (4 Hz)
• 299 Components
• Côtes de Genève

• Small hacking seconds
• Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
• Date display
• Flyback function
• Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock
• Chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds

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The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition "Orlebar Brown" was created in partnership with the British designer label.

As part of its partnership with the British designer fashion label Orlebar Brown, IWC is releasing the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition "Orlebar Brown". The stainless steel case with a diameter of 44 millimetres is completed by a marine-blue dial, rhodium-plated hands and a red chronograph seconds hand. These colours are often used in Orlebar Brown’s product range. The nautical chronograph with elegant case proportions is fitted with a blue rubber strap with textile inlay and custom Orlebar Brown buckle. Thanks to its robust construction and water-resistance of 6 bar, it is ideally suited for use on water or on land. The IWC-manufactured 89361 calibre with flyback function displays the stopped hours and minutes combined on a subdial at "12 o'clock" and provides a power reserve of 68 hours.

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