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• Three New Restaurants Change the Game in Savannah

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In my nine combined years as a critic in Atlanta, one of the toughest questions I fielded from readers was: "Where should I eat in Savannah?" Ah, Savannah. Georgia’s oldest city, founded in 1733 just inland from the marshy coast, is a place of otherworldly, out-of-time beauty. Statuesque oaks line the streets, frocked with Spanish moss dangling in rows that resemble fringes on a gray leather jacket. The historic district houses twenty-two squares and centuries-old churches in Greek Revival and Gothic styles. Savannah ranks among the most memorable towns in America for strolling.

For dining, though? Not so much. Before my latest trip last month, when I saw and tasted signs of true culinary transformation for the first time in the two decades I’ve been visiting the city, I would pass along a handful of rote Savannah restaurant suggestions that barely shifted over the years.

The list began with Elizabeth on 37th, Savannah’s fine dining grand dame, whose lineage I respect. In 1981 chef Elizabeth Terry and her husband Michael opened the restaurant in a mansion built eighty years earlier by cotton merchants. Long before most upscale restaurants in the country considered sense of place, Terry researched handwritten cookbooks at the Georgia Historical Society for her menu. She prepared dishes influenced by the spice routes that reached Savannah’s ports, beauties like grouper rubbed with cinnamon, cumin, and cardamom or shrimp stuffed with deviled crab over saffron rice. In the mid-1990s the Terrys sold the restaurant to longtime employees (and brothers) Gary and Greg Butch, and the kitchen still uses many of Terry’s recipes. The restaurant has settled into comfortable middle age, dependable but rarely rousing.

Biscuit with bacon and cheese eggs at Back in the Day Bakery and the exterior of Elizabeth on 37th

For casual charmers, I’d suggest soul food favorites like Narobia’s Grits & Gravy for crab stew and fried fish or Marandy’s One Bite Delight for oxtails and pig’s feet. For burgers, pimento cheese, and a craft beer: Green Truck Pub, which opened in 2011. And the fast moving lines at the wonderful Back In The Day Bakery rewarded with an airy, buttery biscuit filled with cheese and eggs and bacon (among many, many sweet and savory glories). But largely, Savannah has been a bastion of well intentioned, middle-of-the-road New American restaurants serving visitors the kind of food they could they could easily find back home. Paula Deen’s Lady & Sons did once possess mom-and-pop appeal in its humble origins, but it’s evolved into a 330-seat feedlot with all the ersatz heart of a Cracker Barrel outpost.

By contrast, the eloquence of a recent roasted chicken entree at The Grey seemed flabbergasting. The restaurant opened in December in a former Greyhound bus depot given a majestic renovation . Mashama Bailey, the chef, glossed the chicken with a restrained curry sauce and a relish studded with currants and green pepper to evoke country captain, the Lowcountry one-dish classic. Eaten with smoked collard greens ordered as a side dish, the cooking reflected the best of modern Southern cooking, timely in technique but with flavors rooted in tradition. I tasted the same finesse across town in a whole egg raviolo at The Florence , the year-old looker in a restored ice factory from chef-restaurateur and Top Chef judge Hugh Acheson. The dish delivered a carnival of textures: the al dente pasta and its gushing contents, parmesan baked into crisp chips, feathery fennel fronds, toothy mushrooms and onion slivers, and wisps of country ham mirroring the porcine broth in which the raviolo bathed.

The ambitions of these newcomers recall the culinary gumption that’s been apparent since early last decade in Charleston

The ambitions of these two newcomers recall the kind of culinary gumption that’s been apparent since early last decade in Charleston, 100 miles up the shoreline from Savannah. Comparisons between the two port cities are inevitable. They may compete in comeliness, but Charleston’s relentlessly documented restaurant scene in every way eclipses the one in Savannah. "I used to say that Charleston was five or ten years ahead of Savannah in terms of food, but they’re so far apart now I can’t even quantify it," says Savannahian Tim Rutherford. He previously wrote restaurant reviews for the Savannah Morning News and is working on a book about the history of food in Savannah. "We’ve earned our nickname ‘Slowvannah,’" he says. "Change doesn’t come quickly. And if restaurants become successful here, they tend to get comfortable."

Above: Roasted country captain chicken and the interior of the bar at The Grey; Below: Pan-roasted squid with beans

Which is why The Grey feels so game-changing: One senses in the engaged, energized staff and the menu’s freshness that the place is only beginning to hit its stride. It instantly became the most stunning restaurant space in Savannah. New Yorker John O. Morisano bought the building and refurbished the exterior to its curvy Streamline Moderne slickness. The front bar, once a diner and now lined with leather dyed blue to match yesteryear’s Greyhound logo, leads to an Art Deco wonderland of a dining room. Numbers on the walls correspond to gate stations where busses once lined up. Vector patterns in the paneling form hypnotic triangles and quadrilaterals. Clean-lined tables, chairs, and booths echo midcentury swank. The original pink and green floors, the lithe fixtures, the center horseshoe-shaped bar: Treats for the eyes tempt in every direction.

But this is the South, and ghosts lurk behind the glamour. The building operated as a depot from 1938 to 1964 during the Jim Crow era; there were segregated waiting areas and restrooms. It sat empty for decades before Morisano made the purchase, and it seems poignant in its rebirth that a talented African-American chef commands star billing. Morisano recruited Bailey — who mostly grew up in Queens, New York, but spent some of her childhood in Savannah — from Manhattan’s Prune, where she worked as sous chef for Gabrielle Hamilton.

Bailey’s menu gambols between audacious and accessible, with the surrounding region and the Mediterranean as the most tangible influences. She mixes in ground crawfish and shrimp to traditional pork and rice boudin, lightening the Cajun staple with their aquatic savor. Pan-roasted squid meets tender, inky beans in another winning earth-sea combination. Baily shows a particular facility for wielding sweetness. She adds just the right amount of Madeira (a wine favored by Savannah’s forefathers) to the brown sauce of her steak Diane variation, made daringly and brilliantly with shaved beef heart and adorned with onion rings. Piquant red pepper jelly glosses pulled pork served sizzling in a cast iron crock; it offsets the meat and a crowning fried egg without becoming too cloying.

I have a feeling the country captain chicken and the smoked greens will emerge as signatures, as will skillfully stirred drinks like the vintage "improved whiskey cocktail" with its Sazerac-like nip of absinthe. Not everything that passed the kitchen window proved exemplary. Shrimp cocktail was undone by mealy little critters with their heads still attached. I have no problem with head-on shrimp, but in this refined framework the presentation came off as awkward. And a buttermilk granita, which sounded like ideal refreshment before reentering the Southern swelter, tasted sour and oily. They registered as minor gaffes in one of the most promising new restaurants I’ve encountered nationwide this year.

The Florence, celebrating its first anniversary this month, has had time to fine-tune itself into a purring machine. That’s no easy accomplishment considering its massive size: two floors, each with its own bar, plus an on-site coffee shop whose staff makes a bright tasting pour-over and knows that Taiwanese bao zhong oolong requires only a quick steep. Exposed ceiling beams, brick walls with fading whitewash, and knotty woods recall the industrial-chic aesthetic favored in Atlanta. The chef in charge is Kyle Jacovino, a veteran of Acheson’s restaurants. He started as a sous chef at Empire State South in Atlanta and went on to lead the kitchen at Acheson’s flagship, Five & Ten in Athens, Georgia.

Above: The interior of The Florence and s moked duck breast over Sea Island red peas ; Below: Shrimp and the exterior of The Wyld.

At his newest position, he merges Southern and Italian cuisines — an idea already proven at restaurants like Hog & Hominy in Memphis and Bottega in Birmingham. The foods of the two cultures share agrarian roots that entangle with ease. At The Florence (named after a local statue erected in honor of Florence Martus, a woman who greeted incoming ships in the early twentieth-century), that means puffy-lipped Neapolitan-style pizzas alongside entrees like smoked duck breast splayed over Sea Island peas and strewn with benne seeds. I loved the flounder Siciliana, one of the few staples on the menu, which included shrimp, clams, and mussels and lit up the taste buds with willy-nilly scatterings of crushed basil, capers, olives, slivers of garlic. Olive oil pound cake belongs to the Cal-Ital lexicon. The take here, though, served with mascarpone and the last of the season’s strawberries, was rich enough to satisfy the Southern sweet tooth.

The Wyld shows that more modest endeavors can make their own ripples in the dining scene.

If The Grey and The Florence represent blockbuster projects energizing Savannah, The Wyld , open only since April, shows that more modest endeavors can make their own ripples in the dining scene. (Please make this The End of restaurants whose names begin with "The.") The dockside hangout sits along a wide, deep creek off Herb River southeast of the city’s hub. It was previously a restaurant called Bonna Bella Yacht Club; the new owners spruced up the property with renovations inside and out, adding a bocce court and hammocks and a sail stretched over one of two patios for shade. Boats pulled up at regular intervals on the early Saturday evening I sat among a chill, multi-generational crowd with Dark and Stormy in hand.

Restaurants in such magnetic, languid surroundings can usually get away with mediocre food, but chef Tony Seichrist is a striver. He cooked for Acheson a decade ago at Five and Ten and then followed it with stints in several marquee Atlanta restaurants. His menu at The Wyld appeals broadly (Caesar salad, hummus plate, tacos, burger) yet also slips in some graceful odes to local seafood and produce. A satisfying tangle of grilled shrimp arrived slicked with olive oil and jolted with Old Bay seasoning. Corn and brown butter croutons enriched fetchingly murky crab chowder. Butter beans simmered with pork and served in a small steel kitchen bowl looked and tasted right alongside pan-seared flounder.

Caramelized peaches and blueberries at The Wyld

The plate that made the most lasting impression, though, was a dessert of blueberries and taut, juicy sliced peaches tossed together and sprinkled with sugar that flash-caramelized under the flame of a blowtorch. Vanilla ice cream melted into the jumble. Bold in its simplicity, it heralded the Lowcountry summer and, like the other meals on the trip, presaged a sea change toward more expressive, personal cooking in Savannah restaurants. It’ll be fascinating to see if the transformation continues apace.

The Grey: 109 Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard, Savannah, (912) 662-5999, thegreyrestaurant.com

The Florence: 1 B West Victory Drive, Savannah, (912) 234-5522, theflorencesavannah.com

The Wyld Dock Bar: 2740 Livingston Avenue, Savannah, (912) 692-1219, thewylddockbar.com

Back In The Day Bakery: 2403 Bull Street, Savannah, (912) 495-9292, backinthedaybakery.com

Elizabeth on 37th: 105 East 37th Street, Savannah, (912) 236-5447, elizabethon37th.net

Narobia’s Grits and Gravy: 2019 Habersham Street, Savannah, (912) 231-0563

Marandy’s One Bite Delight: 530 Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard, Savannah, (912) 335-8843

Green Truck Pub: 2430 Habersham Street, Savannah, (912) 234-5885, greentruckpub.com

Main photo: Whole egg raviolo with country ham and parmesan crisps at The Florence

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• Bonna Bella Yacht Club

Location and Contact

View the menu, restaurant details.

Delivery No

Payment Accepts Credit Cards

Good for Kids Yes

Attire Casual

Alcohol Yes - full bar

Reservations

Cuisines: American , Seafood , Steakhouse

Price Point $ $ - Cheap Eats (Under $10) $$ - Moderate ($11-$25) $$$ - Expensive ($25-$50) $$$$ - Very Pricey (Over $50)

Outdoor Seats Yes

Restaurant Description

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Restaurant Photos

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Nearby Restaurants

Savannah Italian Club ($$) Italian Distance: 0.04 miles

The Wyld Dock Bar ($$) American, Seafood Distance: 0.17 miles

China Taste ($) Asian, Chinese Distance: 0.68 miles

Pizza Express ($) Pizza, Subs, Sandwiches Distance: 0.73 miles

No Sauce BBQ ($) Barbecue Distance: 0.82 miles

Menus People Viewed Nearby

Crystal Beer Parlor ($$) American

Forty Five South Restaurant ($$) American

Lady & Sons ($$) Southern, American

Leopold's Ice Cream ($) Ice Cream, Desserts, Yogurt, Sandwiches, Coffee Shop

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CITY TALK: Finally checking out the Wyld Dock Bar

The Wyld Dock Bar opened in April, but I just made my first visit there recently. Between trips out of town and the disruptions of stormy evenings, I somehow let more than three months slip by.

A friend and I arrived at The Wyld - it's at the end of Livingston Avenue in the spot formerly occupied by Bonna Bella Yacht Club - at 7:30 p.m. on a recent Tuesday. The parking lot was nearly full, but there were a couple of empty tables visible on the north side of the restaurant.

I expressed a preference for a table on the back deck. The hostess told me it was full, but literally within seconds a table was free.

All the outdoor seating at The Wyld has commanding views of the marsh, but the back deck always feels like a truly special place to me. As soon as we walked out there, I was kicking myself for not getting to The Wyld sooner.

We apparently had arrived at the end of the dinner rush. As the evening wore on, and as we kept ordering more dishes from the flavorful tapas menu, one table after another emptied.

I know that people have different schedules and like to eat dinner at different times, but I was puzzled that so few people arrived after we did. After all, the air was just cooling down, and the marsh is at its most beautiful just before sunset.

No doubt The Wyld stays busy later on weekends, but if you want to see the setting at its most serene, you should swing by just before sunset on a weeknight.

We embraced The Wyld's tapas concept and ended up sharing eight dishes - way more than enough food - off the eclectic menu. Including four alcoholic drinks, our bill was right at $100. The friendly, attentive service felt perfect for the setting.

Anyway, how was the food?

The quail and rabbit sausage ($12), which is served on four small pieces of bread, has an especially rich flavor. I loved the freshness of a side dish of sliced, slightly blanched cucumbers with charred Vidalia onion and feta ($5).

The tuna tartare ($12) was good too, but it would have been better on a cooler night. The fried catfish ($13) wasn't as easy to share as some dishes, but it was beautifully prepared, as was a roasted corn on the cob ($4) with brown sugar aioli and cayenne pepper.

I'd recommend saving room for dessert at The Wyld. The fruit brulee ($5) - sliced fresh fruit quickly seared and served with a scoop of ice cream - is enough for two.

The Wyld has menu options that would work if you're looking for a more traditional dining experience - "this is my food, that is your food" - but many dishes are obviously meant to be shared, just like the beautiful view.

The Wyld Dock Bar is open from 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 4 to 11 p.m. Friday, noon to 11 p.m. Saturday, and noon to 10 p.m. Sunday.

Off-street parking

Should new development on MLK have off-street parking requirements?

Thrifty Supply Center on Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard is a Savannah institution, but it will be closing in the near future. The new owner of that building and several adjacent lots has plans to renovate the historic structures for both commercial and residential uses.

I was surprised to see that the Metropolitan Planning Commission's staff report on a rezoning request recommends that surface parking be required for the new development.

It's worth noting that a number of businesses in the immediate area, including in the block immediately south, have no off-street parking.

Also consider that the city of Savannah plans to build the new Cultural Arts Center three blocks north of the Thrifty site. That building will include a theater that will hold more than 400 people, but the site will have no surface parking for the public.

The city-owned Liberty Street Parking Garage is put to pretty good use on weekdays, but it closes at 9 p.m. each night and is closed on Saturday and Sunday.

Once the I-16 flyover is removed, we can also reclaim a significant number of on-street spaces in the immediate area.

If applied to other under utilized properties in the corridor, a surface parking requirement would depress both future density and future land values. At the same time, off-street parking requirements would probably also drive up the cost of new residential units.

It will be interesting to see how the debate plays out.

City Talk appears every Tuesday and Sunday. Bill Dawers can be reached via [email protected]. Send mail to 10 East 32nd St., Savannah, Ga. 31401.

• Bonna Bella Yacht Club

Menu for Bonna Bella Yacht Club

Crab fritters.

lump crab meat, corn and black beans in a commeal batter then fried to a golden brown and served with our house made remoulade

Shrimp Skewers

two skewers of local shrimp seasoned and seared to perfection, basted with a sweet chili sauce atop crisp caribbean cole slaw.

Peel & Eat Shrimp

the freshest local shrimp delivered daily are boiled in old bay seasoning and served with drawn butter, lemon and house-made cocktail sauce

three mini burgers, seasoned and grilled, topped with house-made hot sauce, your choice of swiss, cheddar, american or bleu cheese.served with a side of pico de gallo, ranch dressing and a pickle spear

Chips & Dip

crispy tortilla chips with your choice of house-made

crispy tortilla chips topped with spicy caribbean beef, queso cheese, house-made pico de gallo and sliced jalapenos

Bonna Bella Crab Stew

loaded with lump crabmeat and spiced just right

Bonna Bella Deck Salad

a refreshing combination of mixed greens tossed in a light tangy citrus infused dressing and topped with cranberries, fresh avocado, navel oranges and topped with sunflower seeds

Caesar Salad

crisp romaine tossed with house-made caesar dressing, topped with our signature croutons and grated parmesan cheese

Side Green Or Caesar Salad

Salad options.

Shrimp & Grits

fresh local shrimp and tasso ham are sauteed in white wine, vine-ripened tomatoes, lemon and butter.served over sauteed grits cakes and topped with parmesan cheese and fresh basil

King Crab Legs

a long-time favorite steamed and served with drawn butter, lemon and cocktail sauce.

Red Beans And Rice

a lousiana favorite with cajun spices and smoked beef sausage

Savannah "jamba" Laya

we put our savannah touch on this lousiana favorite, topped with grilled local shrimp and andouille sausage.

Hand-cut Ribeye

a hand-cut 12oz ribeye steak, seasoned and grilled to order, served with sauteed green beans and our potato of the day

Quesadillas

a large flour tortilla filled with monterey jack and cheddar cheese and grilled.served with sides of house-made pico de gallo, salsa and sour cream.

Cajun Shrimp Meat

fresh local shrimp (seasoned and grilled)and smoked bacon, served on toasted wheat bread with cajun mayonnaise crisp lettuce and vice-ripened tomato.

Cabo Fish Sandwich

spice rubbed white fish pan-seared to perfections.served on toasted wheat bread with crisp lettuce, vine - ripened tomato and a drizzle of kumback sauce

Bonna Bella Burger

hand-made house-seasoned.9oz beef patty, grilled how you like it.served on a fresh kaiser roll with crisp lettuce, onion and vine-ripened tomato

Jamaica Jerk Chicken

our house-made jerk seasoning will transport you to the islands!chicken breast, rubbed and grilled.served on a fresh kaiser roll with crisp lettuce, onion and vine-ripened tomato with a side of pico de gallo.

Chicken Club

grilled seasoned chicken breast and smoked bacon, served on toasted wheat bread with cajun mayonnaise, crisp lettuce, vine-ripened tomato and swiss cheese

Ben's Chocolate Brownie

a thick warm brownie, with a hint of cinnamon and chocolate chips, topped with vanilla bean ice cream.

Island Key Lime Pie

tart lime and sweet graham cracker crust are the perfect blend for a taste of the islands.

Vanilla Bean Ice Cream

Menu may not be up to date. Submit corrections.

Bonnabella Yacht Club

Yacht news and more, tag archives: israeli, techno293 world championships.

The Techno293 World Championships has had athletes from 30 countries. The participants totaled over three hundred and it was recently concluded. There were four days of the championship, but the third and fourth days suffered due to lack of adequate wind. However the last two days the winds were strong and led to adequate excitement among the crowds. The event that was concluded over the last weekend had light wind conditions mostly, averaging about five or six knots. This progressed to high winds towards the final days. As a result, there were three races that were held last weekend, between Friday and Saturday, about eleven for Youth Boys category and ten for other fleets.

Ella Benbenisti was winner in the junior girl category and she led the races through the week. She stated that the races had been fun and she had enjoyed it. Among the boys there were participants from France who took the second and third position while the participant from Israel took the first position.

Though the weather conditions kept changing, the young sailors were able to keep up with the shifting winds and tailor their courses and speed accordingly. For many of the participants it was more about meeting people and having fun, but for others it was a competitive event where they had to perform well. This year it was clear that the Israeli participants were dominant. There was a windsurfing segment as well and here again the Israeli sailors performed well in the Youth Boy category. In the event of this year, having been successfully completed, it remains to be seen how the event of the next year will continue. This event continues to be a ground for young sailors to test their skills and help them get their skills and abilities recognized among other international sailing networks.