sailboat stay tension

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• Rig Tuning, Part 4—Mast Blocking, Stay Tension, and Spreaders

In Part 3 we set the rake and bend and tightened all the rigging up just firm, which is the core part of doing a good mast tune.

Now let’s tidy up a few important details so we can get on with the sailing tune (Part 5).

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More Articles From Online Book: Sail Handling and Rigging Made Easy:

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• Rig Tuning, Part 1—Preparation
• Rig Tuning, Part 2—Understanding Rake and Bend
• Rig Tuning, Part 3—6 Steps to a Great Tune
• Rig Tuning, Part 5—Sailing Tune
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John, Great article and series. Question are you re-pouring the Spartite every time you step the mast? or are you using the Spartite blocking to help reset the mast in the correct location?

No, you can reuse the Spartite. In the last part I will cover a whole bunch of tips and hacks to make subsequent stepping very easy, including that.

And no, the whole point is that mast blocking changes nothing. The mast position is set before we block. Please see parts 2 and 3 for more on that. Particularly the theory in part 2. Also, in this chapter I write:

At this point, the mast should have space all around it at the partners, but almost certainly won’t be in middle of the hole either athwartships or fore and aft, and that’s just fine, as we learned in previous chapters. So let’s not screw up the great tune we just did by trying to force the mast into the middle of the partners. As long as we have enough room for some blocking, all is good.

Hi John, Continues to be an excellent series. Thanks. There are two other reasons besides boat movement to consider when tightening the rigging screw and you find the tension on the shroud/stay is not increasing that have come to my attention over the years. A couple of times I know of the mast base being corroded to a thin section (hard to see from the outside) and the mast was literally being ground into the mast step with the compression tensioning of the rigging screw. The other time, the shroud had a wire or two broken at the entrance to the swage at the top of the mast and tightening the shroud just was unraveling the shroud from the swage. Lots to watch out for. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

Hi Dick, as clear as this sounds it leaves me clueless – so it should be prudent to get atop to check all wirings after finishing the tune? How are you handling this?

Hi Ernest, Thanks for pointing out the need to clarify. I was merely trying to say that I have bumped into other reasons for the lack of increase in wire tension when tightening the rigging screws. That said, it is always a good idea to eyeball all swages after the rig is tuned. My best, Dick

A couple of very good points, thank you.

On the same subject, I was wandering around a boat yard looking for masts to photograph to clarify flat butt syndrome, and was distressed to find that the vast majority had no butt fitting at all. Meaning that the raw extrusion is being placed directly on the step, a recipe for corrosion over time, and very poor practice.

John, This is the problem that I have. There is a piece if 1/4″ aluminum plate in the bilge and the extrusion just sits on that. I think the plate is held down by a couple of machine screws. I have been trying to find a design for a butt fitting and an adjustable mast step. So far I have not found anything. So i have started to design my own. Any suggestions?

I’m pretty sure you can get both from Selden mast. Not sure if they will do a custom job for another mast manufacturer section, but that’s where I would start the search.

If not, a mast butt is simply machined from a solid block of aluminium to the OD and shape of the mast, with a insert part of say 1″ machined to ID of the section. The bottom should have a slight arc as discussed in Part 1.

Then the two pieces are mated together with a heaping helping of TefGel and fastened with SS machine screws.

I will write more about this, and screw jacks, when I clarify “flat butt syndrome” and what to do about it.

Hi John, By chance I had the mast out of the boat when your articles were first published, so it was very interesting and helpful thanks. I thought our production boat experience might be helpful for others as it also lead to some head scratching on my part as we have no butt fitting in our Z-Spar mast. The mast rather sits in a solid cast aluminium shoe that is bolted in place to a cross girder – and I gather this acts as a “female” plug and mast base in one. There is almost zero play once the mast is in its shoe and no way to adjust the mast base position when in there. The partners are formed by an opening in the deck above with a bolted on alloy mast collar, also with very little play around and no adjustment. With the mast in place, it is almost perfectly raked and centred with the stays slack (as in your instructions). I know that with moderate pre-bend settings we are so balanced (small to moderate amount of weather helm in most wind strengths) when sailing upwind or reaching she will usually sail herself with no autopilot – I guess one blessing of a well worked out production boat (Beneteau 473). Anyway, following your article I questioned our rigger who was replacing the stainless rigging (after 15 years) and he said ours was the most common set-up and they seldom see boats here (production or otherwise) with a mast plug. Given we have little play fore and aft (nor seem to need it) and there was no visible wear or damage on the mast butt, there seemed little point fitting one. The rigger’s advice was to leave it as designed. We did have corrosion in the aluminium mast shoe, but this was around the stainless tie rod that ties the mast collar to the shoe and prevents the deck from working from halyard loads. So please excuse a different kind of “plug” – we decided to replace both the Z-Spar shoe and collar which arrived by courier with some other rigging mast parts in just 4 working days from the USA to NZ. It seems every single part for our 16 year old mast is available (almost entirely ex-stock) at a very reasonable price from their web-site: https://www.usspars.com/boat-information/?vendor=Beneteau&model=OC+473#section-display . Our rigger was mightily impressed – great service US Spars! Rob

Hi John and everyone, I am sure I have seen mast butts, but I do not remember having done so in all the boatyards I have walked around, nor have I ever owned a boat where the bare mast extrusion did not sit directly on the step. And the same for all the friends I have helped with their work over the years. So, I am intrigued and wonder what the benefit/drawback would be of a retrofit. Mine is a quite dry boat, so I have little corrosion. I would also have to see whether the turnbuckles could tolerate whatever the length the mast butt would add to the overall mast height. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

Distressingly, you are right, a proper mast butt fitting is not common. That said, its still good practice, both for corrosion prevention and so that the bottom can have a slight arc to make tuning easier and more consistent. And yes, if we add an butt fitting, we need to trim the bottom of the mast the same amount. Often not a bad idea because of the very corrosion you mentioned in an earlier post.

I’ve seen them, but only in the context of some sort of depression in a deck-stepped “tiny tabernacle” where the mast butt, often a chamfered sort of rectangle, fits into a matching “female” spot on deck, after which a pin is put through a second extrusion.

We have a very large tabernacle (over a metre high) for our deck-stepped mast which allows the mast to pivot down for canal transits and related service or transport. But we do not have a fabricated mast butt; the mast sits on a rubber pad to keep it from metal on metal wear, but it wouldn’t be too hard to have one made and to remove whatever length of mast it augmented to leave the mast height at zero. Thanks again for getting me to consider something I had never really thought of!

It’s good to hear that the builder got this right and given that they did, it sounds like you are all good. I think what we can learn from this is that for a long production run boat like yours, with a builder who has deep experience, there is a good chance of getting things right without leaving any adjustment. However, with boats that have shorter runs, and are less “manufactured” I still feel happier if the builder has given us room to adjust.

Further, I suspect that the general move to deck stepped masts in the last few years is because builders no longer want to provide adjustment, or risk getting the partner to step relationship wrong.

Also good to hear about the great parts service.

Regarding Spartite I found a nice 3-part series on youtube showing how the Spartite tightening is done: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PTakwY3JcY8&start_radio=1&list=RDPTakwY3JcY8

Just hope you have thoughts to share on how to tune a solent rig. Can get the forestay to have no appreciable sag but not the solent stay. Also we have a removable inner stay for our storm jib. It’s only set up for passage. At present set it up to be tight and not deflect beyond 1/2” when pressed on at shoulder height but clueless as to whether this is good thinking. Doing so does seem to put a bit of pre bend in. Finally uncertain as to how to handle the hydraulic backstay when using the storm jib. Would seem more tension would give more sag. Have noticed with the solent you flatten things initially but then get nothing by going further.

Hum, I don’t think that the solent rig is at the core of your problem. Rather I think your basic tune is flawed, and that, in turn, is making everything else a problem.

So, I would recommend that you do a complete, from scratch, tune job, starting from chapter 1. The only variation I would add, would be to slack the fore stay completely and tune as if the solent stay was the only one forward.

Once you have rake and prebend all set, but before you tighten the backstay and solent stay to sailing tune (see above) tighten the forestay to just firm, but on no account tighter than the solent. Then proceed as above, but tightening all three (backstay, solent, forestay) together. As you do that, monitor the prebend with the reference line (part 3) and make sure you are not getting a hard spot in the curve near the top or changing the prebend much.

Your goal is to end up with an even curve and the solent just a bit tighter than the forestay since it is the solent that you will be using in heavier weather.

As to the storm jib stay, see Part 2 and Part 3 for how that should be set in relation to the running backstays. (If you don’t have runners opposing the storm jib stay, then they should be added.)

Another good post. A few thoughts in reaction to it:

I agree completely on Spartite. I have been that guy trying to put wedges back in. It is not that I think wedges don’t work, they just need to have a very low taper angle which also makes them quite long so that you can get a good fit which often interferes with stuff mounted on the mast above the partners. Spartite is also much quieter which is a big deal for me at least.

On how much tension to put in the backstay/forestay, I am not sure that all 40′ boats would do well to have a strong person really crank on a set of 12″ wrenches. On our boat with a 5/16″ backstay (often found on 40’ers) and corresponding 5/8″ thread size in the turnbuckle, I can get to 20% of wire breaking strength quite easily with a set of 8″ wrenches. I do a good job of cleaning and lubricating the threads and have a lot of experience dealing with highly torqued fasteners. If you assume a k factor of 0.2 (which is really like using loctite on clean threads, grease will be even lower) on a 5/16-18 thread, it only takes about 26 ft lbs to get to 2500 lbs of tension which is 20% of breaking strength. This would only be 26 lbs of force at the end of a 12″ wrench which is not a whole lot if you have good body position. I suspect that many people have poor threads and don’t lubricate appropriately which leads to very high k factor and resulting difficulty in getting to tension but if done right, it isn’t that hard. I suspect that part of the reason for the results you posted are also likely related to diameter, as diameter goes up, you need more torque for a certain tension and I would assume your backstay turbuckles are significantly larger diameter than what you would find on a 40’er.

We do use a tension gauge in 1 place which is to set forestay/backstay tension. Due to geometry, our forestay has slightly more stress so we put the gauge on it and adjust until it is at 20% of breaking. If we had hydraulics, we would just look at the gauge there but we do not. This results in more tension than ideal in lighter air but seems to be the best overall compromise.

One other silly thought is that I find it much easier to use the vice grip style crescent wrenches for tuning although I have never seen them in large sizes so it may not apply to boats over about 40′.

That’s great, thanks. I agonized about that tension part, more than any other, to the point that Phyllis and I tried it twice to see what we ended up with. That said, I think you are right that relative diameter between your turnbuckles and ours may be the variable. Anyway, really good to have your analysis on that. I will add a note to the chapter pointing at your comment and caution.

What do you think of my graphing idea to determine when a hull can take no more? I know that back in the day when I ocean raced we tended to pump up to truly frightening numbers when going to windward in big breeze, and typical only stopped when the gauge stopped going up. Of course, these were not our boats and a lot of this went on when the owner was off watch!

I noticed that in one place in my previous post I said a 5/16-18 thread where I meant a 5/8-18 thread. The numbers should otherwise be right. If the thread were 5/16, it would take about half the torque for the same load which would be very easy to get into trouble with.

I have not previously given much thought to your question about graphing load versus displacement on the backstay, thankfully I have always sailed sufficiently stiff boats to not run into that. I have no special knowledge in this area so my comments are only educated guesses. My initial reaction is that if you are only finding the stiffness of the hull, that is not a big deal as stiffness of a structure tends to be relatively constant across its stress range (this is why you see the Modulus of Elasticity) and relative deformation doesn’t tell you anything about stress, only absolute. However, if you truly get to a point where there is no backstay tension increase at all with displacement of the ram, then there is an issue as that would imply you have gotten into plastic deformation which is not reversible. Telling the difference between these can be tricky as the slope can be low but not zero and you can have no plastic deformation. One thing that would worry me is if I slowly needed additional piston displacement to get to the same loads over time. This wouldn’t be a valid measure on new rigging but once it has settled, you could measure piston extension and if you had less over time for the same pressure, that would worry me (I am assuming that creep of the fiberglass hull is small enough that it would not be an issue with this but I haven’t actually tried to check that). Of course, shock loading while sailing can get higher than the load that you set things at and if you were actually plastically deforming structure, you would expect to see some amount of slackening. Regardless, your suggestion to not keep cranking if the load isn’t increasing seems valid.

I suspect that the designers of lightly built racing boats have had to give this some thought so they probably know what it means much better.

Eric, we have 12 5/16″ stays and it takes some time to tweak them. I use either a long screwdriver (with a lanyard around my wrist!) or vise-grips of the pointy kind. I agree that if the threads aren’t galled, it is not hard to get them to the state where the deflection suggests they are in the desirable 20% zone. Still, as I used to use the simpler Loos Gauge for my old boat (1/4″ wire size), I feel I should invest in its bigger brother just to be sure I have even tension on opposing sides of the mast. I know to look for slack on the lee shrouds, but “slack” is a very imprecise term! I prefer foot-pounds or Newtons or whatever I can verify.

Ah the days of sticking a screwdriver through an open body turnbuckle. I found a crescent wrench with long jaws that I used to put across the turnbuckles. This spring when we got new rigigng, we went with the Stalock supajust ones which have a proper flat for a wrench.

I am someone who is a big believer in knowing exactly how to tighten or adjust every faster and/or adjustment. In my production designs, I specify how to tighten and what thread treatment on every single fastener or other adjustable feature, usually with some form of bolt torque although most designs have a few items that use a different method. Of course, torque is the poor man’s bolt tension. In this case, I am with John that measuring tension is not necessary to get what you want as you won’t know what tension to set to other than for the forestay/backstay. Regarding getting the two sides equal, I am pretty sure that the mast is effectively very flexible compared to the rigging so if you have the mast properly straight, tension is equal side to side. In the end, what we want is a mast that has the shape we want and rigging that doesn’t flop around when the wind gets up. Tension is certainly one way of looking at this but knowing what tension to set to is the trick, an engineer could calculate it but it would be extremely labor intensive and require very good correlation of the design drawings and the actual boat. Since we don’t have this, the first time tuning is done sailing and then there are easy ways to get back to that tune that are position based although tension would be an acceptable way of doing it. I suspect John’s next section will be covering exactly how to do this.

Like you, I’m a holly terror for setting things like torques right (we carry two torque wrenches) and there is nothing I would like more than if boat builders published appropriate tension settings for each rigging component based on full engineering analysis. But in the real world that’s not happening so I think we also have to guard against falsely thinking we are being “scientific” when in fact we are not.

For example, I always have a bit of a secret chuckle when I see sailors carefully checking the shrouds each side for equal tension and nodding sagely when they end up being the same, since, as you say, they always will be, or at least when measured by the inaccurate tension devices commonly available.

Bottom line, we need to recognize the limits of our understanding.

On that note, what do you think of the Selden mast stretch test for determining rig tension? It seems like a good idea to me. But on the other hand, I suspect we must also guard against not being really clear in our minds about the potential inaccuracies due, but not limited, to age of the wire and different wire manufactures. http://www.pbo.co.uk/gear/pbo-tested-4-rig-tension-gauges-45215

All that said, I can’t tell you how much I appreciate you keeping an “engineering watching brief” on my efforts, particularly around tuning, but also over the last few years as I have delved into other technical areas. So, as always, thank you.

I just looked at the “folded rule” method for the first time and in theory, it is perfectly valid. To carry a load, all structures must deflect. Another way of saying this is that stress is proportional to strain, the proportion being the modulus of elasticity. Stainless steel is one of the nice materials where this modulus is pretty constant over the stress range. All this goes to say that if you known the amount of deflection in a structure with known geometry, you also know the stress (actually, this is one of the best ways of measuring it). The numbers given by PBO are for 1X19 stainless wire but this method would work just fine for other constructions if you know what the correct displacement this corresponds to. I would think that 1X19 is consistent enough and there should be no other factors unless you have something like really severe corrosion.

The question that I have would be in how consistently it can be implemented. The deflections are quite low so you need to really have a stiff rule that is well attached to the shroud so that your setup is repeatable. Also, different people will start with different amounts of tension in the shrouds which will have some effect. In theory, you won’t end up putting exactly the same number of turns on each side but it will be pretty close and if you count, you could always even it out in the end. I believe that all of these effects will be pretty small but they will be there.

Overall, this seems like a reasonable method to me although I have never tried it.

Once again, thanks very much for your help. In light of our discussion, I’m thinking about a partial rewrite of the above to recommend either a gauge or the “folding rule” method for setting head stay/backstay tension. And further recommending that tension not exceed 25% of break load of the wire. That recommendation would also apply as the upper limit for those with adjustable back stays—conservative I think, particularly when measured against common practice on racing boats, but then we are cruising here, so no need to take silly risks.

I will leave in the stuff about being mindful about the limits of some hulls to take even that load.

Would you agree that was a good way to go?

I am happy to try to help, I enjoy reading and contributing to your site and also learn a lot from it.

What you are proposing seems reasonable to me. 25% of breaking is a reasonable number. As you say, someone like you who has a lot of experience can probably do it without a measurement tool but for less experienced, some way of measuring tension for the forestay/backstay seems like a good idea whether it be a hydraulic gauge, tension gauge or the folding rule method.

Great, I will get the rewrite done based on that. Thanks again for the help.

I appreciate your comments. I also agree that if you get the important parts of tuning and mast bend correct, you are most of the way to a proper tune that allows the sails to work effectively without stresses the rig unnecessarily. I will still probably get that larger Loos gauge as I had a considerable improvement in sailing characteristics when I used its little brother to tune up my previous boat’s rigging.

I don’t see any referens to the “folding rule” method as described in the Selden rigging brochure. It is a simple way of measuring the actuall tension in a wire by measuring its elongation.

No, simply because I have never used it. That said, it does sound like a good option for those that want to get really scientific about this. Also, you will note that I linked to an article that does explain the method.

Hi John, in the context of your hydraulic backstay adjuster notes, what formula are you using to convert from PSI to pounds tension? Are you basing the conversion on the cross-sectional area of the 1×19 wire? Working back from Harken/Navtec specs, I have 2.1 lbs. pull force = 1 psi, but I don’t know how they are calculating that.

Hi Douglas,

To convert from PSI to tension on any hydraulic cylinder we just need to multiply the PSI by the pressure area of the cylinder, which is the area of the ram surface minus the area of the rod. Or to put it another way, the area that the hydraulic oil pushes on. So, for example, if you read 1000lb on the psi gauge and the pressure area is 2.1 the tension on the stay will be 2100 lbs.

Thanks John. Without detailed specs of the cylinder it’s difficult to know the piston (ram) diameter, so I’m just going to go with the manufacturer’s pull-force specification, which in the case of my Navtec adjuster (and repeating what has been said), is PSI * 2.1 = pounds pull-force.

That should work. That said, if you want to verify and dig into the Navtec site you will find detailed specs on each of the cylinders. I did this myself for the article, although I do remember that finding the information took a while.

Hi. I would like to ask about the use of the inner forestay (cutter-stay) and the runners, as I find it very confusing, and I really struggle to find information on how to use it. If anyone have any book or website, or knowledge to recommend/share on it, I would be very grateful!

My OVNI has a removable inner forestay. I can easily adjust it with a handle on deck. I also have fwd and aft lowers, and as you say, those are the ones to use to set the prebend (especially since my inner forestay is removable).

However, if I am to put any amount of tension on the inner forestay, it will immediately start bending the mast unless I have the runners tensioned. And to get a decent tension for the sail to be used in the stronger winds that I tend to use the staysail in, it will bend the mast a fair bit without the runners tensioned! I think I have realized that I’m mainly supposed to adjust the tension on the inner forestay with the runners (in the same way that you would adjust the “normal” forestay with the backstay).

I now want to go to windward, tacking, and that’s easy, because I can close haul with both runners tensioned. Bear off and I just slack/remove the leeward runner. Easy.

But now I want to do a gybe, and now I need to slack both runners to make room for the boom on the leeward side, AND the new leeward side after the gybe (or pull the mainsheet in quite a lot, which makes the boat feel very “skittish”).

Is it okay to not use any runners for a few minutes during a gybe, which will allow the mast to bend a fair bit?

And also, is it okay to tighten up the inner forestay to induce additional mast bend during sailing (with or without using the staysail or runners)? I do not have an adjustable backstay, so it won’t tighten the forestay, but as I see it, it will flatten the mainsail.

I feel like I am asking very basic questions here, but I have tried really hard to comprehend this. I’ve read all of the sail handling and tuning chapters many times over, and done countless hours of experimenting onboard, but I just struggle with this one. Sorry if I’m beating a dead horse here!

Kindly, Arne 🙂

Good question.

I started to answer this, but it got way too long for a comment, so I will deal with it in a Q&A article.

May be a few weeks as I have a lot of other stuff on the go at the moment.

Hi, that is way better than I could have hoped for, and I’m happy to wait for it, well aware you got a lot on your plate with so many useful and big topics being tackled these days (and working on your own boat)! 🙂

Feel very free to edit my question for clarity and brevity.

It’s a good question and exposes a gap in our Online book, so definitely need to fix that right. Thanks for your patience.

I’m working on tuning my mast after having it pulled and new rigging installed. I was doing pretty well until I saw this weird through-bolt setup in my box of parts and remembered that at the partners there was a 1/2″ SS threaded rod going through the mast with blocks on them. Essentially through bolted blocks. They’re messing with my tune, and it actually looks like I’d have to lift the mast ever so slightly to even get the rod through. It seems some of the weight of mast would then be sitting on the deck and not the keel. I don’t see anything like this on any mast I’ve looked at, and am considering leaving it out, hard spots, partially unloaded mast step, etc etc being my considerations. Has anyone seen this sort of thing before?

Hi Timothy,

Wow, that’s a first for me too, and I’m at a loss to come up with any purpose for it.

That said, I did have one nasty thought: maybe the reason the bolt won’t go through is that the mast step has compressed down since the boat was built. Unfortunately mast step problems of this type are quite common on older boats.

And maybe someone in the past thought that adding this bolt would move some of the compression loads to the deck. Not a good idea in my view since there is no way I can see that the deck would be able to support much load in that direction.

The other option is that the deck has bowed up, which is quite common in the absence of tie bars, which again is quite common.

So if the boat does not have tie bars, this was probably someones idea to stop the deck bowing up under the inward loads from the chain plates…hum…more I think about it, the more I like this theory. Are there any tie bars present to hold the deck down? If not, you definitely don’t want to leave the bolt out.

I would also check around the step very carefully for any deformation. It might even be worth pulling the mast again to really check this area. Also check outside the boat around the keel in the way of the step for any signs of deformation.

What sort of boat is this?

Hi John, the boat is a Passport 40. It does have a tiebar and turnbuckle on the fwd face of the mast to keep the deck from rising up. This threaded rod appears to be original as the hole is very true and had the original paint on the edges, and the wedge bits are very nicely machined.

The mast step is an aluminum shoe on a mild steel plate, and it needs some love as the steel plate has exposed edges but I don’t think it’s compressed at all, both appear flat and they rest on a solid resin block atop the ballast plug.

For the moment I have it in with the original blocking because I have to get somewhere (breaking my own rules with a schedule!), but I’m going to pull it when I get where I’m going and then use spartite instead of these blocks and that rod. I had to “tune” to the existing wedges for now, but I think plumb and true situate the spar offcenter in the partner

This guide has been invaluable and I’ll have to say makes tuning a fairly easy task. I have a double spreader rig and the intermediates are continuous so that makes getting wows out even easier as all adjustments are on deck.

Hi John and Tim,

I too haven’t seen this but I think John is likely on the right track as to why it exists. On a keel stepped mast, the mast is pushing down on the mast step with a huge amount of load, something like 90%+ of all of the stay tensions added up before you put up any sails. Depending on how the base of the mast is setup, if there are halyards, reef lines, outhauls, etc that leave the mast, if the turning block is deck mounted, that turning block is pulling the deck up while the other end of that line is pulling the mast down. As John says, you tend to get mast step compression and deck lifting with the usual solution being a tie bar, rod, wire, etc.

From a design perspective, it would be very seductive to do what appears to be the case here as it will be lighter. Instead of having a mast section in lots of compression next to a tension member, you could just react some of the mast compression at deck level and have less compression in the mast below deck. I think where this gets tricky is the tolerances of it. Given general boatbuilding tolerances, I doubt you could have a standard dimension where the hole for this partners fitting goes as all your tolerances will add up to a significant portion of boats not having the load where it should be. It would probably be possible to have a procedure for drilling it as an assembly the first time it is put together. It would also be possible to have a shimming procedure although it seems like it would be quite likely these would be lost or messed up in the future. And then of course, you have the issues related to tuning as making 2 points rigid during tuning at the bottom of the mast really changes how you have to do your tuning procedure.

When you say you can’t get the bolt through, is there tension in the rig? It is quite possible that when you slack it off, it would assemble.

Seeing Tim’s latest comment, the Passport 40 is a Bob Perry boat and he used to do consulting for a reasonable fee. I would certainly hope he would have guidance on what to do with this if it is original. You could also see if there is an owner’s forum as that would also probably confirm if it was original or a later addition.

Thanks for the fill on that. All makes sense to me.

One other thought on getting the bolt through: could it be that Passport intended the tie bar at the front of the mast to be preloaded a bit, as well as the rig being slack, before the bolt goes through?

Anyway, I think asking Perry is the best bet. And, on balance, I would be nervous about leaving it out, even though installing it does complicate tuning.

I strongly suspect that this piece is at least intended to be installed with the rig slack so that it shares some load. Whether it already carries a preload or has a small gap that takes up as the rigging is tensioned would be a function of the design purpose and the stiffness of the hull, deck and mast section. It should be possible to figure out but the amount of calculations or testing is quite high and it would be better to hear what the original intent was.

It is also entirely possible this is a hair-brained idea that seemed good until you dive into the details, there are certainly tons of examples of those in products. One of the rules that I make my team live by even in early prototypes is before we add an adjustment, we need analysis to prove it is needed and if it is needed, we need to have a procedure for adjusting it before releasing the design. The reason for this rule is that I have seen so many issues from people who don’t follow it and I have been pulled into help fix these messes more than a few times.

Hi. How would you go about adjusting twin backstays? On my boat I have two separate backstays that goes from each aft corner and up to each their attachment on the masthead.

I have a mast tune I am somewhat satisfied with, but I have no real clue wether the two backstays are symmetrical or loaded correctly. I am unable to judge wether the mast bends in a desirable way when loaded, although it looks quite okay when sitting on anchor. I feel that I am able to point slightly higher on one tack than the other, and I suspect this might be part of the issue (more headstay sag on one tack maybe).

Also when tensioning the stays, they will almost double the headstay load when on anchor (how is that with your rule of thumb tightening force). But under sail, I presume the windward stay would carry most of the load, and that might result in an under-tensioned rig if not tensioned hard enough? In essence, they would sort of behave a bit like runners I guess (only mine are not adjustable).

Kindly, Arne

I don’t think that the headstay tension would vary much by which tack you are on. If it does, the backstays are probably not tight enough.

But you are right that getting them about equal is a good idea. The best way to do that is a Loos Gauge: https://loosnaples.com/products/tension-gauges/

This gauge will also tell you what percentage of break load your are tensioning everything and gives recommendations for the max.

The other option is two hydraulic backstay adjusters plumbed to the same pump so the pressure and therefore tension always equalizes automatically.

An alternate solution to consider perhaps…

We have a masthead rig on our 14.5m sloop and to go offshore in 2016 we changed from the as designed 135% genoa to a 103% jib. To make this work we need control over our backstay to tension the forestay & jib luff, for upwind pointing.

Having moderately swept-back spreaders, our solution was to change to a single upper wire backstay terminating at a heavy duty wire turning block and then a single part lower backstay terminated to port on the original chainplate and tensioned at the starboard quarter chainplate using a Harken backstay tensioner – see attached photo.

If your spreaders are in-line, you may need to keep your original twin backstays – not sure? We carry a large rigging bottle-screw as a spare in case our tensioner fails on passage, but to-date it has worked reliably.

https://www.harken.co.nz/en/shop/integral-backstay-adjuster/12-single-acting-integral-backstay-cylinder-40-mm-bore/

That sounds like a solution. Several cautions though. The block will be taking twice the load on the back stay and so needs to be massive and it’s also important that the sheave in said block be of large enough diameter so turning the wire does not result in excessive strength loss.

And of course the wire that goes from the chain plate to the back stay adjuster should be flexible (7×19) not ordinary rigging wire (1×19). And said wire will probably need to be at least one size larger both because of the strength reduction from the turn and because flex wire is, if memory serves, generally not as strong as rigging wire, size for size.

And finally the back stay adjuster will have a 2:1 advantage with this set up, so a user will need to very careful not to pump it up too much.

Bottom line some careful calculation needs to be done when implementing this idea.

I would presume that using a Dyneema type of rope would be the best solution there. However, in my specific case, one of the backstays functions as a MF/SSB antenna, so I’m a bit limited on options.

In total, I think I will leave the two backstays (I also like the redundancy they offer), and rather just try to make a more focused effort next time I retune my rig. For now, I don’t have adjusters, but during winter, we generally have quite heavy winds, and I just add a few turns on the turnbuckles for the backstay during fall. Not sure how much it adds, but I’m sure it can’t do much harm, especially as the rig is very much set-up in a non-scientific way in the first place.

Thanks for your inputs John! I will look into a tension gauge. However, intuitively, the hydraulic option that equalise doesn’t seem like such a great idea, as it will in essence create a “floating” (or “self-tacking”) backstay, and increase the load on the windward shroud. I have no clue if this matters though! Anyway, it’s kind of beyond the budget and complications-tolerance for me at the moment.

I have wondered about a tackle between the two backstays as a tension device, but I’m unsure how the Dyneema tackle would affect the SSB antenna.

Dyneema might not be a great choice as it tends to creep under load so your tune would be constantly slackening off. You could monitor the gauge and keep pumping it up, but it will be a PITA.

That’s not a problem with twin rams. The McCurdy and Rhodes has them and I sailed her well over 100,000 miles set up that way. It’s also a very common setup.

Hi Arne and John,

Interestingly Dyneema was our first choice and it worked brilliantly in almost every way. The turning block was smaller (but still high load) and creep wasn’t an issue we noticed, since we kept a reasonable load on the backstay at anchor or in the marina and have a load gauge on the Harken tensioner to recreate settings.

The only issue was at around 15 knots AWS we experienced a strange and loud harmonic in the Dyneema stay(s) which sounded for all money like a slow revving marine diesel like those used by older style trawlers.

After several phantom boat-on-boat incidents involving me rushing up on deck from tending the kettle or such like, we asked the rigger to change back to wire. No more harmonics, but more weight aloft.

John, you are absolutely right. We have a large diameter sheave on the block and wire to match.

Hi, John. I have a feeling Spartite has gone the way of the Dodo. Spartite.com is no longer working and the company who made it (Cass Polymers) seems to have been acquired which, in turn, that company was acquired (I gave up following the acquisition bread crumbs after awhile). I was trying to find it in Europe but only found it in the UK and Ireland (it seems no one ships outside the UK or Ireland because it is a chemical). I assume those companies (including Harken) have some residual stocks. I am hoping I am wrong but I came to a dead end. Oh, and it seems like it isn’t available even from West Marine anymore (although they don’t say explicitly that it isn’t available, the product page says “not available for shipping” and “not available for store pickup”, which I interpret as not available at all).

Hi Michael,

Wow, that would be a big problem, particularly since most carbon mast builders require Spartite and will void the warranty if we use wedges.

I did a quick google search and it’s still available here in Canada and at several places in the USA, but that could be old stock.

Anyway, I would hope and expect that if Spartite is permanently no longer available, a new product of the same type will come to be fairly quickly because of pressure from the big Carbon spar builders who serve deep pocket clients.

Anyway, that does not help you. You mentioned Harken. Have you tried their Dutch office as a source? I would suggest giving them a call. I have always found them very helpful and I’m guessing they will know what is going on with the product, even if they can’t sell you any. Also check with your local North loft since they are part of a conglomerate that owns Offshore Spars. I have a buddy who works at North, and will check with him.

Hi, John. Thanks for the reference to Harken Netherlands who referred me to a distributor of Spartite in the Netherlands (More Marine) who told me where to buy it in Belgium. I asked More Marine about availability and they told me that Spartite was taken over by Sika Marine quite some time ago and they do still seem to be making it. You can find a reference to it close to the bottom of this Sika brochure . So, it seems it is still being made despite there being no website and doing a search on the Sika website for Spartite produces no results (strange way to treat a popular product).

Correction, you can find it by searching the US Sika website just not the European ones.

Thanks for the fill on that. I went much the same route through my friend at North Sails. I have written to Sika, about Spartite, but have not had an answer yet. And I agree, not great, but I fear rather typical of what happens when companies get taken over. Hopefully they will sort things out soon.

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Dear Readers

• Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

Standing Rigging: How Tight Is Right?

Standing rigging tension is a peculiarly under-addressed subject. Easy to see how it would worry a new boat owner or someone going to sea.

Most experts step aboard, yank or twang the shrouds and stays and mutter, Pretty slack, Too Tight, or, Thats about right.

Youll find in the sailing literature very few discussions of the question: What does tight mean?

Even riggers rarely explain how much tension they like to see.

There are a few sailors who like the rigging so tight you could send an elephant up the backstay. It can result in excessive loads and wear on fittings, chain plates and the hull. The ultimate penalty for those who can’t stand any sag in the forestay is what ocean racing sailors call a gravity storm or, less dramatically, dropping the rig.

Others like to take up the slack just enough so that the rig is at rest when the boat is motionless. This approach sometimes leaves excessive slack to leeward that can result in shock loads, excessive wear and misalignment in fittings. It may take longer, but the ultimate penalty is the same.

In between (and probably in the most logical position) are those who like to take up the slack and stretch the wire just a bit. This is frequently accomplished, at least for the stays, with an adjustable backstay. When sailing, especially on the wind, tighten down to minimize slack in the forestay. When reaching, running or at anchor, ease off.

But the question is: How much stretch…especially in the shrouds?

If you stretch the wire 5% of its breaking strength, it will be considered moderate tension. Crank in 15% of the breaking strength and it is regarded as tight. These figures apply for any diameter of wire. You need only know the wires breaking strength.

Three years ago, in the June 15, 1995 issue, we published a discussion of the views of author Richard Henderson, Skenes Elements of Yacht Design and several riggers, along with an evaluation of an excellent booklet published by Sailsystems about a Selden Mast approach (described in detail in the October 15, 1991 issue) and an entirely new method developed by Michael Dimen, who called his gadget a Rigstick.

Mentioned was the familiar (see photo) Loos rigging tension gauge, which comes in two sizes. The Model 91 ($39) is for wire 3/32″ to 5/32″. The Model 90 ($45.50) is for 3/16″ to 9/32″. The gauge depends on the bending property of aluminum plate.

The strange-looking gauges don’t willingly produce great accuracy because you have to hold one reading steady while noting another, which also requires that you make a judgment about where the centerline of the wire falls on a scale. Not easy to do.

The big name in galvanized and stainless cable (as wire is called in the trade), cable hardware and tools, Loos & Co., Inc. went looking for a better mousetrap.

Who did Gus Loos go to? The guy who designed the original gauge, his old friend, Donald J. Jordan, an 82-year-old retired Pratt & Whitney engineer who has been sailing out of Marblehead, Massachusetts, in the likes of Lightnings, Friendship sloops, Sound Schooners (which was the prized New York Yacht Club class in 1918), Pearson Wanderers and currently in a 16′ Starling Burgess design, appropriately called a Marblehead.

The old tension gauge wasnt bad, said Jordan. But it tended to get bent. Then the patent ran out and I told Gus we could do a better one.

The new version (see photo) is a distinct improvement over the old aluminum version. A better design, its also much more substantially made of aluminum, stainless and nylon.

The design problems were interesting, Jordan said. A conventional cable tension gauge has two rollers at the ends with a spring-loaded plunger in the middle and a dial gauge to measure the plunger movement. The wheels have to rotate…because they must permit some small but vital movement. That makes the tool expensive. My approach was to have two stationary wheels and a carefully contrived square slider in a arc-slot on the other.

The new Loos gauges use a long-lasting stainless spring to produce the tension. Slip the lower grooved wheels on a shroud or stay, pull the lanyard to engage the upper hook, relax, read the tension at your leisure and consult the scale to learn the pounds of pressure on the wire and the percentage of breaking strength of the wire. There are three wire gauge notches in the edge. The gauge can be left on the wire while turnbuckle adjustments are made.

The accompanying booklet, very well-done, contains a good tight discussion of the subject; some recommendations; a table on how to equalize tension in different sizes of wire, and line-drawn diagrams clearly showing rig tensions (windward and leeward) created by light, medium and heavy winds.

The wire gauge comes in three sizes, for 3/32″-5/32″, 3/16″-1/4″ and 9/32″-3/8″. West Marine sells them, respectively, for $57.99, $69.99 and $$122.99. Defender Industries cuts them to $49.95, $51.95 and $105.95. Prices in the BOAT/U.S. catalog are in between.

What if, instead of 1×19 wire, you have rod rigging? There are four new models that are bigger, heavier and, of course, more costly. They work the same, but take some arm strength. One is for .172-.250 rod, another for .281-.375. Two others models are for metric rod. West Marine sells the rod gauges for $186.99. Neither Defender nor BOAT/U.S. shows them in their catalogs.

Contact- Loos & Co., Inc., 901 Industrial Blvd., Naples, FL 34104, 800/321-5667. Rigstick, 311 Jackson, Port Townsend, WA 98368; 800/488-0855. Sailsystems, PO Box 1218, Marblehead, MA 01945; 978/745-0440.

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What is a Sailboat Stay?

A sailboat stay is a cable or line that supports the mast. Stays bear a significant portion of the mast load.

Stays are a significant part of a sailboat's standing rigging, and they're essential for safe sailing. Stays support the mast and bear the stress of the wind and the sails. Losing a stay is a serious problem at sea, which is why it's essential to keep your stays in good condition.

Table of contents

‍ How to Identify Sailboat Stays

Sailboat stays connected to the top of the mast to the deck of the sailboat. Stays stabilize the mast in the forward and aft directions. Stays are typically mounted to the very front of the bow and the rearmost part of the stern.

Sailboat Forestay

The forestay connects the top of the mast to the bow of the boat. The forestay also serves an additional purpose—the jib sail luff mounts to the forestay. In fact, the jib is hoisted up and down the forestay as if it were a mast.

Boats equipped with roller furlings utilize spindles at the top and base of the forestay. The spindles rotate to furl and unfurl the jib. Roller furlings maintain the structural integrity of a standard forestay.

Sailboat Backstay

Backstays aren't as multifunctional as forestays. The backstay runs from the top of the mast (opposite the forestay) to the stern of the sailing vessel, and it balances the force exerted by the forestay. Together, the forestay and the backstay keep the mast upright under load.

Sailboat Stay vs. Shroud

Stays and shrouds are often confused, as they essentially do the same thing (just in different places). Stays are only located on the bow and stern of the vessel—that's fore and aft. Shrouds run from the port and starboard side of the hull or deck to the top of the mast.

Best Sailboat Stay Materials

Traditional sailboat stays were made of rope and organic line. These materials worked fine for thousands of years, and they still do today. However, rope has limitations that modern sailboat stays don't.

For one, traditional rope is organic and prone to decay. It also stretches, which can throw off the balance of the mast and cause serious problems. Other materials, such as stainless steel, are more ideal for the modern world.

Most modern fiberglass sailboats use stainless steel stays. Stainless stays are made of strong woven stainless steel cable, which resists corrosion and stress. Stainless cables are also easy to adjust.

Why are Stays Important?

Stays keep the mast from collapsing. Typical sailboats have lightweight hollow aluminum masts. Alone, these thin towering poles could never hope to withstand the stress of a fully-deployed sail plan. More often than not, unstayed masts of any material fail rapidly under sail.

When properly adjusted, stays transfer the force of the wind from the thin and fragile mast to the deck or the hull. They distribute the power of the wind over a wider area and onto materials that can handle it. The mast alone simply provides a tall place to attach the head of the sail, along with a bit of structural support.

Sailboat Chain Plates

Sailboat stays need a strong mounting point to handle the immense forces they endure. Stays mount to the deck on chainplates, which further distribute force to support the load.

Chainplates are heavy steel mounting brackets that typically come with two pieces. One plate mounts on top of the deck and connects to the stay. The other plate mounts on the underside of the deck directly beneath the top plate, and the two-bolt together.

Mast Stay Mounting

Stays mount to the mast in several ways depending on the vessel and the mast material. On aluminum masts, stays often mount to a type of chain plate called a "tang." A tang consists of a bracket and a hole for a connecting link. Aluminum masts also use simple U-bolts for mounting stays.

Wooden masts don't hold up to traditional brackets as well as aluminum. A simple u-bolt or flat bolt-on bracket might tear right out. As a result, wooden masts often use special collars with mounting rings on each side. These collars are typically made of brass or stainless steel.

Sailboat Stays on Common Rigs

Stays on a Bermuda-rigged sailboat are critical. Bermuda rigs use a triangular mainsail . Triangular sails spread their sail area vertically, which necessitates a tall mast.

Bermuda rig masts are often thin, hollow, and made of lightweight material like aluminum to avoid making the boat top-heavy. As a result, stays, and shrouds are of critical importance on a Bermuda rig.

Traditional gaff-rigged sail plans don't suffer as much from this issue. Gaff rigs use a four-pointed mainsail. This sail has a peak that's taller than the head and sometimes taller than the mast.

Gaff-rigged cutters, sloops, schooners, and other vessels use comparatively shorter and heavier masts, which are less likely to collapse under stress. These vessels still need stays and shrouds, but their stronger masts tend to be more forgiving in unlucky situations.

How to Adjust Sailboat Stays

Sailboat stays and shrouds must be checked and adjusted from time to time, as even the strongest stainless steel cable stretches out of spec. Sailboats must be in the water when adjusting stays. Here's the best way to keep the proper tension on your stays.

Loosen the Stays

Start by loosening the forestay and backstay. Try to do this evenly, as it'll reduce the stress on the mast. Locate the turnbuckles and loosen them carefully.

Match the Turnbuckle Threads

Before tightening the turnbuckle again, make sure the top and bottom threads protrude the same amount. This reduces the chance of failure and allows you to equally adjust the stay in both directions.

Center the Mast

Make sure the mast is centered on its own. If it's not, carefully take up the slack in the direction you want it to go. Once the mast is lined up properly, it's time to tighten both turnbuckles again.

Tighten the Turnbuckles

Tighten the turnbuckles as evenly as possible. Periodically monitor the direction of the mast and make sure you aren't pulling it too far in a single direction.

Determine the Proper Stay Pressure

This step is particularly important, as stays must be tightened within a specific pressure range to work properly. The tension on a sailboat stay ranges from a few hundred pounds to several tons, so it's essential to determine the correct number ahead of time. Use an adjuster to monitor the tension.

What to Do if you Lose a Stay

Thankfully, catastrophic stay and shroud failures are relatively rare at sea. Losing a mast stay is among the worst things that can happen on a sailboat, especially when far from shore.

The stay itself can snap with tremendous force and cause injury or damage. If it doesn't hurt anyone, it'll certainly put the mast at risk of collapsing. In fact, if you lose a stay, your mast will probably collapse if stressed.

However, many sailors who lost a forestay or backstay managed to keep their mast in one piece using a halyard. In the absence of a replacement stay, any strong rope can offer some level of protection against dismasting .

How to Prevent a Stay Failure

Maintenance and prevention is the best way to avoid a catastrophic stay failure. Generally speaking, the complete failure of a stay usually happens in hazardous weather conditions or when there's something seriously wrong with the boat.

Stays sometimes fail because of manufacturing defects, but it's often due to improper tension, stripped threads, or aging cable that hasn't been replaced. Regular maintenance can prevent most of these issues.

Check the chainplates regularly, as they can corrode quietly with little warning. The deck below the chainplates should also be inspected for signs of rot or water leakage.

When to Replace Standing Rigging

Replace your stays and shrouds at least once every ten years, and don't hesitate to do it sooner if you see any signs of corrosion or fraying. Having reliable standing rigging is always worth the added expense.

Choosing a high-quality stay cable is essential, as installing substandard stays is akin to playing with fire. Your boat will thank you for it, and it'll be easier to tune your stays for maximum performance.

Related Articles

Daniel Wade

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Cableware® Division / How To’s / How to use Tension Gauges

Military Critical Technical Data Agreement

Helpful Information: Rigger’s Guide to proper swaging techniques

How to use Tension Gauges

How to use tension gauges video transcript.

Ahoy mateys

Hey today lets talk a little bit about the tension of your stays

I’ve got good news and bad news

The good news is Loos and Company helps take some of the guess work out of what the tension ought to be

Now they make three different tension gauges and it’s a function of how big your stays are, the size of your cable

So this is the middle one and there’s one for smaller cables and one for bigger cables

Now there’s certain tolerances that your stay should be within and that helps right here

They’ve got a little thing on here

The bad news is you’re not going to find a chart somewhere that says you have ABC boat and your stays are a quarter inch and you have such and such a sail, so your tension needs to be 900

While the tension on the stays is also a function of sailing performance, the shape of the sail

But you know there are certain tolerances that you should be within and Loos helps take the guesswork out of that

Now you may say to yourself well hey I’m not a professional rigger, what do I need this for?

All the more reason you need one of these

You know these professional riggers they can go around and they can test things out pretty well

Here you want to make sure that you’re somewhere in the tolerance levels of this and then fine-tune it as you get more comfortable and learn more about sailing

Especially racing sailors tension is very very important

Well let’s talk with Eddie the shop foreman here at the Salient Emporium who is a professional rigger to give us some general guidelines as to what we should be looking for and what we should have on our stays

And then he’s going to come on board my boat and we’re going to go through the process of how to use this gage and how to tighten the stays

Alright guys so here we are with Ed, a professional rigger, give us a little more information

Now Ed, as a typical cruising sailor how tight do I want my rigging to be?

You want it, you don’t want it tight tight but you do want it on the tight side because what you want to do is that so when you’re sailing if you’re on a starboard tack then the rigging on the port side is not loose

So you want everything to stay tight so say when the wind comes across starboard side pushing the sail and everything that way then if everything is too loose and all your rigging

you’ll see it on the port side will hang loose and vice versa if you want a port tack then all of the wind of the rigging on the starboard side will be loose

You don’t want to be able to see it moving around in the wind

So you want it to be a little bit tighter than looser?

Okay, now on this gauge here we’ve got now I’ve got quarter inch stays

I’ve already tested that guy’s

So here we’re going to go on anywhere from 450 pounds of tension to 2,000

Where do I wanna be at

I would start that somewhere about in the middle

So maybe somewhere around the 900 to 1100

Somewhere in that area at 11-13 percent

All right now is that for all the stays or just the two main ones that go up to the top

Well the uppers and the forward and the lowers will be tighter than your, the uppers your back stay head stay will be tighter than your lowers will be

Okay so we’re going to go out to the boat and see where I am

Now I did notice guys I took my main halyard and I brought it down

I measured on the starboard side and I brought it over to the port side and I seem to off a little bit there

You know so the mast is not quite straight

So I wanna straighten that out first

You want to get it to the center of the boat as far as side-to-side

You don’t want it more towards the starboard side, the top, or the port

You want to have it dead center of the boat

Okay now what stage are those the first ones we want  to do?

We will start with uppers and get the masthead in the center of the boat as far as side-to-side

Okay, and then we’re gonna do the ones that go up to the spreaders?

Do the lowers yeah and that way once you get to the top of the mast in the center then you work down and you get the rest of the mast lined up with it

Okay, and so the tension is really a matter of the size of the cable?

And sail shape and kind of sailing you’re doing?

All right well guys let’s go out and just see how we do this, how we test this, and then how we actually adjust the turnbuckles to get the right tension

All right let’s go

Okay what we want to do is make sure the top of the masthead is in the center of the boat, side to side

So what we’ve done we’ve got a line hook here to the main hired and we’ll stretch it down to the top of the staunch and then go to the other side to see how they compare

You always want to make sure that whatever you use is it’s the same on both sides

That way you get a good accurate measurement

So we’ll pull it down and top of the staunch is right here so we’ll go to the other side of the boat and do the same thing and see how far off we are

All right so Eddie has given me this, let me see what we got here

You can see we are that far off so the mast, that top of the mast is actually heading towards the starboard side of the boat

So what we want to do is either loosen up on the starboard side and crank up on the port side, pull it over to get it straight

Or just crank up on the port of the rigging if it’s loose enough maybe we can pull it over and straight it out that way

And then once get it in the center then you take up evenly on both sides so that everything is tight

The same tightness on both sides and a mast stays on the center of the boat

Okay we’re going to check the tension now on this

We’re going to use the Loos gauge

Check tension on the upper

To use this we’ve added a safety feature here so we are gonna clip this around here so if we drop it, it doesn’t fall overboard

Okay then you just put the stays in between these two knobs here at the bottom

And you pull back on this and let it clip in there

And that’s where you get your reading from

You can see it’s on about 17 and then we look down this gauge here and 17 is up here

We need to be down in this area here somewhere

So that’s telling us we need to tighten up on this cord upper to get it one thing to get the mast over this way but also tighten up on the rig all together

All right yeah I’m pretty far off there Ed

All right now let’s look down at the turnbuckle and how do I actually do that

Okay once you get the locking nut loose

Not all boats have the locking nut sometimes they just have the stud coming down into the turnbuckle

And then there’s just cotter pins going through to hold it in place so if you have that you just pull those cotter pins out and then it’s ready to loosen or tighten

To tighten this we’re going to put the wrench on the flat spot of the fitting here coming down the rigging

And you can stick a screwdriver into the turnbuckle, the body turnbuckle, and turn it

Most time it’s counterclockwise to tighten so we will put a few turns on this and then check our tension gauge and see how much it changed

Okay so I’m tightening up on the turnbuckle and we’ll see how it changes on the gauge as I’m tightening up on this

Well this is pretty good Ed because we’ve got the gauge in place and as you’re tightening I can see it’s moving and we’re getting closer to, let me see what number we wanted

We wanted 32 and we’re at 25 right now so we’re getting there

Okay but now before we tighten up too far on this what we ought to do is check the top of the masthead again and see if we’re getting closer to pulling the mast back over to the side

we don’t want to go too far this way and then watch and loosen up on this side and pull it back on the other side

Okay so we want to take it in small increments?

All right well let’s test this and see here where we are on our straightening

Inside we are now here, we’ll take it over to the outside

Tail a little bit these gotta go to port just a little bit more but we’re getting real close

Actually right now we have gone too far to the port side

So when you tighten up on the starboard side and bring masthead back over this way a little bit

Alright so now we’re going to bring the gauge back over here and work on this one

Okay so you can see we’re right on 25 over here so we still need to get down into this area here around 30-32

So when we tighten that we bring that down, we’re also going to be tightening the other side too?

Yes we’re going to pull on the other side

So masthead back in the center and at the same time we’ll be tightening the rig both the uppers to get where it needs to get

Tightened it up on the starboard side now to bring the masthead back over this way and also tighten everything down to get it where it needs to be on the gauge

All right so now Ed we’re up to about 26-27

All right so now we’re on 30 here now we need to check for our straightness again?

Yes we’ll check straightness again and if we still want to make it tighter at that point if the mast in the middle then we want to take up the same on both sides

Take a turn here take a turn there or two turns here two turns there

It’s that way once it’s in the center we’ll keep it in the center

Okay so we’re kinda just gonna bounce back and forth?

Okay it’s pretty much right at the same height from each side to side so we got the mast pretty much in the center of the boat now

So then what we’ll do, we’ll work down from that

We’ll go down to the lowers and get the middle of the mast lined up with the top and the bottom

Okay we’ve got this set on 30 which is about midway of where I wanted to get it at

We’ll leave it there, we’ll get everything tightened and pinned and locked back in place and then we’ll start with the forward air flows get them tensioned and get the middle of the mast lined up with the top and the bottom

And you take it out sailing and check things out and then we’ll recheck it once you come back in

All right so now on these other ones that we’re going to do here

These things here ‘the half lowers and full lowers’ those need to be the same tension?

No they will not be as tight as the uppers are

they will be somewhere around the 20-26-28 somewhere in that range

Okay so we’re gonna do that next

All right Ed so now I got a pretty good idea of how this thing works and really it’s pretty neat

I don’t want to tie you up so I’ll go ahead and do the forward and half stays and can you come back and check me then?

Sure yeah I can check it, but just don’t forget when you get done, make sure all the turn buckles are locked back down so these nuts will screw down to the top and the bottom will screw up to the bottom

and then once you’re done that as an extra safety thing put in these caudal rings as it will go through the turnbuckle and in the holes and the studs there and that would keep those turnovers from backing out on their own

All right well I’m gonna give it a shot Ed

Man I tell you what, I’m just really shocked at how loose these stays were and how crooked my mast was

I’ma feel a lot better about heading out tomorrow

You’re sailing should be a lot better

Well thank you

All right Ed what do you think?

Well first thing I’m going to check is I want to make sure you got the mast in a straight column going all the way up and what I’m going to use is I’m gonna look at the sail track and if it’s off one way or the other here in the middle it’ll look like a snake or look like a banana

It would be bent so I’m just gonna look up the mast and see if it looks straight

Actually Dominic you’ve done a pretty good job as the mast track is straight all the way to the very top

Wow! All right

So the next thing we want to do probably is to check the tension on all the rigging to make sure everything’s at the proper tension

Okay and you’ve got that on actually pretty well, it’s up on 29

So you’re right in the area of where I wanted you to be

As long as this one’s the same and then what you want to do is just take this off of here and go over to the port side and make sure that everything is set to the proper tension on both sides

Which I would say they’re going to be because if not the mast when we pull it over to that side of the boat would not have been straight

And that you’ve got it exactly on 29 so that looks good

All right so I’m ready to be a professional rigger?

No, but you will be able to go out and adjust your sails and get it fine-tuned for you to sail the boat you know to what it’s supposed to be sailed at

I’ll get this cable out of the way here Eddie

Well Ed I really appreciate the help on this I think it’ll be helpful for a lot of cruisers

I’m headed out tomorrow so I’m gonna give it a test

Okay well good you definitely will see an improvement in the sailing I’m sure of that

Guys did you see how easy that was?

It didn’t take long at all and I’ll tell you what, I feel much better about going out sailing tomorrow, knowing that I’ve got even tension

I mean this thing was so far off it was unbelievable

This (Loos Tension gauge) I think is going to very very handy to have on board on a regular basis

Anyway guys happy and safe boating to you, your family, and friends

The Loos Tension Gauges take the guesswork out of cable or rod tension adjustment. The tension gauges are especially designed for accurate, repeatable tuning of a sailboat’s standing rigging.

Model #PT-CR

(Cable Railing)

Sizes 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4

Model 90 & 91

Sizes 3/32 to 9/32 and 2.5mm to 7mm

Model RT Series

(Sail Rigging (Rod))

Sizes .172 to .375 and 4.4mm to 9.5mm

The  Loos tension gauges  take the guesswork out of cable or rod tension adjustment. The tension gauges are especially designed for accurate, repeatable tuning of a sailboat’s standing rigging.

Contrary to popular thought, a slack rig is more punishing on a hull than a properly adjusted, tight rig. Insufficient tension will not reduce the loads transmitted in the hull. Slack rigging will punish the spar and rigging needlessly by allowing excessive movement, chafe and shock loading. Modern fiberglass hulls should not be damaged by a properly adjusted, tight rig.

Figure 1 lists the rigging tension under different conditions for a typical boat with a properly tuned rig and with a slack rig. It will be noted that the maximum load is the same. However, for properly tuned rig the leeward / shrouds will not go slack under normal sailing conditions.

The lateral stiffness of the mast and the fore and aft stiffness of the spreaders is reduced by a factor of 2 when the leeward shrouds go slack. This Important structural characteristic is not generally recognized.

Rigging tension is becoming more important as a result of the trend toward the use of mast bend to control mainsail shape under different wind conditions. Mast bend will also affect the shape and trim of the jib, since mast adjustment generally affects forestay tension. The expert skipper will benefit by maintaining consistent rigging tension while developing the optimum sail shape and sailing tactics.

Safety and Performance

The failure of a fitting, shroud or stay could damage your boat, buckle the mast or even cause personal injury. To avoid such failure of (cable or rod) and fittings from fatigue or shock loading, it is important to set up your standing rigging with the proper tension. Too little tension in the shroud will permit the leeward shroud to go slack, only to fetch up with a jolt when the boat rolls or pitches. A less common problem is excessive tension. This can cause permanent stretch to the (cables or rods) and possibly damage the mast.

PERFORMANCE

The actual set of sail under load is determined by the cut of the sail and the shape of the structure which supports the sail. Rigging tension plays an important part in determining the set of the sails.

When the boat has been tuned for peak performance, measure (cable or rod) tension should be recorded. The stainless steel used to make the rigging can stretch a little bit over time under high loading. Thus, marking turnbuckles, etc. cannot guarantee that subsequent adjustments will provide the desired tension. Only by gauging is it possible to repeat the initial tuning or improve it.

Limiting the sag of the forestay is perhaps the most important benefit to performance from having the proper rigging tension. Forestay sag permits the jib luff to fall off to leeward, tightening to leech and seriously degrading the performance to windward.

Tension in the upper and lower shrouds will influence the mast bend and set the mainsail. This is especially important on modern, fractional rigs where the mast bend is used to de-power the sail in heavy winds.

If the shrouds are not set up with enough tension, the leeward shrouds will go slack when the boat is sailing to windward. This can result in fore and aft pumping of the mast in a head sea. This mast movement will change the shape of the mainsail and can cause performance loss as well as possible structural damage.

Specific tension requirements for your application must be obtained from the boat, mast, or sail manufacturer or the manufacturer of the product on which the (cable or rod) is used.

Sailboat Stays and Shrouds: Essential Rigging Components Explained

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 21, 2023 | Sailboat Maintenance

Short answer: Sailboat stays and shrouds

Sailboat stays and shrouds are essential components of the rigging system that provide support and stability to the mast. Stays run from the masthead to various points on the boat, preventing forward and backward movement, while shrouds connect the mast laterally to maintain side-to-side stability. Together, they help distribute the forces acting on the mast and ensure safe sailing .

Understanding Sailboat Stays and Shrouds: A Comprehensive Guide

Introduction: Sailing is an exhilarating experience, but it requires a deep understanding of the various components that make up a sailboat . One crucial aspect that every sailor should grasp is the concept of stays and shrouds. These vital elements not only provide support and stability to the mast but also play a significant role in determining the overall performance of the sailboat. In this comprehensive guide, we will explore everything you need to know about sailboat stays and shrouds.

What are Stays and Shrouds? Stays and shrouds are essential rigging components that hold the mast in place and control its movements during sailing. They primarily serve two distinct purposes – providing support for the mast against excessive sideways forces (known as lateral or side-to-side loads) while allowing controlled flexing, and keeping the mast aligned with respect to both pitch (fore-aft) and roll (side-to-side) axes.

The Difference between Stays and Shrouds: Although often used interchangeably, stays and shrouds have specific functions on a sailboat rigging system. Stays usually refer to those wires or cables that run forward from the head of the mast, attaching it to various points on the bow or foredeck. They help resist fore-and-aft loads placed upon the mast, such as when sailing upwind, preventing it from bending too much under pressure.

On the other hand, shrouds typically refer to rigging lines connecting laterally from both sides of the masthead down towards deck level or chainplates located on either side of the boat’s cabin top or hull. Unlike stays, they primarily counteract side-to-side forces acting on the mast due to wind pressure exerted against sails during different points of sail.

Types of Stays: A typical sailboat may consist of different types of stays based on their location on the mast. Some of the common types include:

1. Forestay: The forestay is a prominent stay that runs from the top of the mast to the bow or stemhead fitting at the boat’s front . It is responsible for supporting most of the fore-and-aft loads acting upon a sailboat rigging system, keeping the mast in position while under tension from sails .

2. Backstay: The backstay runs from the top of the mast to either stern or transom fittings at the aft end of a sailboat. It acts as an opposing force to counteract forward bending moments occurring on larger boats when sailing into a headwind or during heavy gusts.

3. Inner Stays: Found on some rigs with multiple masts or taller sailboats, inner stays run parallel to and inside other stays (such as forestay and backstay). These provide additional support and rigidity when deploying smaller headsails closer to centerline during specific wind conditions.

Types of Shrouds: Similar to stays, shrouds can vary based on their positioning on each side of the masthead and hull structure. Some commonly used shroud types are:

1. Upper Shrouds: These are positioned higher up on a sailboat mast , connecting near its upper section down towards deck level or chainplates for lateral stability against the force exerted by sailing sails.

2. Lower Shrouds: Positioned lower down on a sailboat’s mast , these connect near its midpoint and extend towards lower deck sections or chainplates. They serve mainly as reinforcing elements against lateral forces experienced while sailing in strong winds .

3. Jumpers/Checkstays: Jumpers (or checkstays) are typically temporary shroud additions used when depowering or controlling mast bend in certain wind conditions or point of sail, especially during racing events where fine-tuning sail shape is critical.

Conclusion: Sailboat stays and shrouds are essential components that provide critical support, stability, and control to the mast. Understanding their purpose and types is crucial for every sailor looking to optimize their vessel’s performance while ensuring safe sailing. By comprehensively knowing the role of stays and shrouds, you can confidently navigate the waters while harnessing the power of wind in pursuit of your sailing adventures.

Step-by-Step Instructions for Proper Installation of Sailboat Stays and Shrouds

Installing sailboat stays and shrouds may seem like a daunting task, but with the right knowledge and proper instructions, it can be accomplished smoothly. Stays and shrouds are crucial components of a sailboat’s rigging system that provide support and stability to the mast. In this step-by-step guide, we will walk you through the process of installing these vital elements for safe and efficient sailing.

Step 1: Prepare your Equipment

Before beginning any installation, ensure that you have all the necessary tools and materials at hand. This includes stay wires, turnbuckles, cotter pins, wire cutters, measuring tape, swage fittings (if applicable), wrenches appropriate for your boat’s hardware sizes, and a well-organized workspace. Having everything prepared ahead of time allows for smoother progress throughout the installation procedure.

Step 2: Measure & Cut Stay Wires

Accurate measurements are crucial when it comes to stays and shrouds installation. Using a measuring tape, determine the required length for each stay wire by taking precise measurements from their designated attachment points on deck to the masthead or other relevant attachment points. It is important to leave room for tension adjustment using turnbuckles later on.

After obtaining accurate measurements, use wire cutters to trim each stay wire accordingly. Be sure to trim them slightly longer than measured lengths initially indicated because precision can only be achieved once all connections are made.

Step 3: Attach Wires to Mast Fittings

Now that you have your measured and cut stay wires ready, it’s time to attach them securely to the appropriate mast fittings . Depending on your boat’s design and specific rigging details, this step can vary slightly. Look for pre-existing attachment points designed specifically for stays or fittings specifically configured for thread-on stays if applicable.

Ensure each connection is secure by threading or whatever means necessary as per your boat’s requirements . Double-check that there is no unwanted slack while leaving space for later tension adjustments.

Step 4: Deck Attachment Points

Move on to attaching the stay wires to their designated deck attachment points. These points are usually found near the bow area, and there may be specific fittings designed just for this purpose. Follow your operational manual or consult experienced sailors if you are unsure about the correct attachment points.

Again, double-check that all connections are securely fastened, without any excess slack. It is always better to have a slight bit of extra wire length here than have inadequate length at this stage.

Step 5: Install Turnbuckles

With the stays securely connected at both ends, it’s time to insert turnbuckles. Turnbuckles are essential tools for adjusting the tension in stay wires. Attach these devices to each stay wire by screwing them into the corresponding threaded fitting on either end of the stays. Ensure they are tightened securely but not over-tightened at this stage; you still need room for adjustments and tuning.

Step 6: Secure with Cotter Pins or Locking Nuts

To prevent accidental loosening of turnbuckles due to vibrations or rough sail conditions, make sure to secure them using cotter pins or locking nuts provided by your boat’s manufacturer. Place a cotter pin through the hole located in one side of the turnbuckle and bend it back upon itself, ensuring that it does not interfere with adjacent rigging components or sails.

Alternatively, locking nuts can be used by tightening them against each side of the turnbuckle threads once adjusted correctly –This provides an additional layer of security against unexpected loosening during sailing adventures !

Step 7: Inspect & Adjust Tension

Before hitting the water and setting sail , take a moment to inspect all connections thoroughly. Verify that each wire is properly aligned and does not show signs of damage like frays or kinks—Pay attention to potential chafe points where movement can wear against another object or surface.

To adjust tension, gradually tighten or loosen the turnbuckles as necessary. Be cautious and make small adjustments while periodically checking for an evenly balanced mast, ensuring that it remains straight and true.

By following these step-by-step instructions meticulously, you can ensure a proper installation of sailboat stays and shrouds. Remember to take your time, double-check all connections, and consult with professionals or experienced sailors if any doubts arise. With a meticulous approach and attention to detail, your sailboat rigging will be safe, stable, and ready for smooth sailing adventures!

Frequently Asked Questions about Sailboat Stays and Shrouds: Everything You Need to Know

Have you ever found yourself marveling at the majesty of a sailboat, wondering how it is able to harness the power of the wind and navigate through vast oceans? If you are a sailing enthusiast or considering embarking on a sailing adventure, understanding the intricacies of sailboat stays and shrouds is paramount. In this comprehensive blog post, we will address frequently asked questions about sailboat stays and shrouds, equipping you with everything you need to know.

1. What are Sailboat Stays and Shrouds?

Sailboat stays and shrouds are vital components of a boat’s standing rigging system that help support the mast while ensuring stability during sailing. Simply put, they prevent the mast from toppling over under excessive pressure from the sails or adverse weather conditions. While these terms may sound interchangeable to novices, there are important distinctions between them.

Stays: Stays are tensioned cables or wires attached to various points on the mast and radiate outwards in multiple directions supporting it against fore-and-aft movement. The most common types include forestays (located at the bow), backstays (attached to the stern), side stays (running sideways along both port and starboard sides), and inner forestays.

Shrouds: On the other hand, shrouds provide lateral support to counteract sideways forces acting on the mast. They run diagonally from their connection points on deck-level chainplates outwards towards optimized positions along the spreaders near midway up the mast.

2. What materials are used for Sailboat Stays and Shrouds?

Traditionally, steel wire was predominantly used for both stays and shrouds due to its strength and durability. However, modern advancements have introduced alternative materials such as synthetic fibers like Dyneema or carbon fiber composites. These lightweight alternatives possess remarkable tensile strength while offering corrosion resistance advantages over traditional wire options.

3. How tight should Sailboat Stays and Shrouds be?

Maintaining the appropriate tension in your sailboat’s stays and shrouds is crucial for maintaining integrity and overall sailing performance. Correct tension ensures that the mast remains properly aligned while allowing it to flex as required, absorbing dynamic forces from wind gusts.

To determine optimal tension, consult your sailboat’s manufacturer guidelines or consult with a professional rigging specialist. Adjustments may also vary depending on sea state or anticipated weather conditions . Proper tuning necessitates periodic evaluation to ensure the stays and shrouds’ tension remains within specifications.

4. How do Sailboat Stays and Shrouds affect sailing performance ?

The correct alignment, tautness, and positioning of sailboat stays and shrouds significantly impact sailing performance due to their influence on mast bend characteristics. Adjusting stay tension can control how much a mast bends under load: tightened stays flatten the mainsail’s profile for increased pointing ability in light winds, while looser tensions promote fuller profiles for enhanced power in heavier winds .

Shroud positions also dictate sideways motion of the mast; fine-tuning their tension governs how efficiently a boat can maintain a desired course when encountering various wind strengths and angles.

5. What are some common signs of wear or damage in Sailboat Stays and Shrouds?

As essential as they are, sailboat stays and shrouds are subjected to immense loads that can lead to wear over time. Routine inspection is vital to identify any potential issues before they escalate into major rigging failures.

Signs of wear or damage may include rust or corrosion on metal components, cracked insulation around terminals, broken strands on wire rigging, visible rigging deformation or elongation under load, unusual vibrations onboard while sailing, or creaking noises originating from the mast during maneuvers.

In such instances, swift action should be taken by replacing affected parts immediately or seeking assistance from experienced rigging professionals.

By familiarizing yourself with the essentials of sailboat stays and shrouds, you empower yourself to enjoy a safer and more rewarding sailing experience. Remember to conduct regular inspections, adhere to manufacturer recommendations, and consult professionals when necessary. Now, set sail with confidence as you venture into the salty unknown!

Exploring the Importance of Sailboat Stays and Shrouds in Ensuring Safety at Sea

When it comes to sailing, safety should always be the number one priority. The open waters of the sea can be unpredictable and unforgiving, making it crucial for sailors to have a thorough understanding of their sailboat ‘s rigging system. One vital component of this system is sailboat stays and shrouds, which play a significant role in ensuring safety onboard.

Sailboat stays and shrouds are specialized cables or wires that support the mast, providing stability and preventing it from collapsing under the pressure of wind forces. These essential rigging elements act as a lifeline for the entire vessel, keeping everything intact during even the toughest conditions at sea.

The primary purpose of stays and shrouds is to distribute the load evenly throughout the mast structure. By doing so, they prevent excessive stress on specific areas and reduce the risk of structural failure. This balance is especially critical when sailboats encounter strong winds or rough seas that can exert immense pressure on the mast.

Imagine cruising along peacefully when suddenly you encounter strong gusts of wind. Without properly tensioned stays and shrouds, your mast could bend or break under these intense forces, compromising your safety and potentially causing severe damage to your vessel. Well-maintained stays and shrouds ensure that your mast remains stable even in adverse weather conditions by withstanding these forces without deformation.

However, ensuring that your sailboat’s rigging is reliable isn’t just about maintaining functionality—it demands meticulous attention to detail as well. Stays and shrouds need periodic inspection to identify any signs of wear or corrosion that may weaken their integrity over time. A frayed cable or rusty hardware might not seem like much at first glance, but they could lead to catastrophic failures when put under stress.

Safety at sea also requires understanding how different types of stays and shrouds work together to optimize performance in varying sailing conditions. While staying safe is crucial, performance matters too! Different sailboat designs accommodate different rigging configurations, and knowledgeable sailors carefully select the right combinations to enhance their vessel’s maneuverability. The strategic placement of stays and shrouds aids in controlling the shape and orientation of sails, enabling efficient sailing even in challenging weather.

In this era of advanced technologies, some sailors may wonder if traditional stays and shrouds are still essential with other innovations available. However, it’s crucial to remember that age-old methods often endure for a reason: their reliability. Modern alternatives might offer convenience or weight-saving benefits, but they seldom match the robustness and simplicity of time-tested techniques.

The exploration of the importance of sailboat stays and shrouds ultimately emphasizes the significance of investing time and resources into proper knowledge, maintenance, and selection. As a sailor, prioritizing safety by ensuring the integrity of these critical components can mean all the difference between a pleasurable voyage adrift on calm seas versus surviving treacherous storms.

So, before embarking on any maritime adventure, take a moment to appreciate the unsung heroes that uphold your mast—the sailboat stays and shrouds—and make sure they are ready to bear any challenges that await you on your journey to ensure both safe passage and endless memories at sea.

How Sailboat Stays and Shrouds Impact Performance: Tips for Maximizing Efficiency

Sailboats are fascinating vessels that harness the power of the wind to propel through the water. While many factors contribute to a sailboat’s performance, one often overlooked aspect is the impact that stays and shrouds have on its efficiency. In this blog post, we will dive into the intricacies of sailboat stays and shrouds, exploring how they affect performance and providing valuable tips for maximizing efficiency.

To understand the significance of stays and shrouds, let’s first clarify their definitions. Stays are essentially wires or ropes that provide support to keep a mast in place, preventing excessive bending or swaying. Shrouds, on the other hand, refer specifically to those stays that extend from either side of the boat to stabilize the mast laterally.

While seemingly simple components, stays and shrouds play a crucial role in determining a sailboat’s overall performance. Here’s how:

1. Structural stability: Sailboat stays act as primary supports for the mast, ensuring it remains upright against powerful winds . Without adequately tensioned stays and shrouds, masts can buckle or sway excessively under load, compromising sailing performance and even risking structural damage.

2. Sail shape control: Proper tensioning of stays and shrouds directly influences the shape of your sails while underway. By adjusting their tension appropriately, you can manipulate how your sails fill with wind , optimizing their aerodynamic profile for maximum efficiency. Expert sailors effectively use this control mechanism to fine-tune their boat ‘s speed and responsiveness.

3. Windward performance: Efficiently rigged sailboat stays help maintain proper alignment between mast and sails when sailing upwind (also known as pointing). Tensioned shrouds ensure that minimal lateral movement occurs during tacking or jibing maneuvers when changing direction against the wind. This prevention of excess mast movement translates into less energy lost due to unnecessary drag – ultimately improving windward efficiency .

Now that we’ve established the importance of sailboat stays and shrouds let’s delve into some tips for optimizing their performance:

1. Regular inspections: Routine visual inspections are essential to identify any signs of wear, corrosion, or fatigue on your stays and shrouds. Replace frayed ropes or wires promptly, ensuring that all components remain robust and reliable.

2. Correct tensioning: Achieving the optimal tension in your stays and shrouds is vital. Too loose, and you risk mast instability; too tight, and excessive stress loads are placed on the rigging components. Aim for a tension that allows slight flexibility while maintaining structural integrity – seeking advice from an experienced rigger can help find the sweet spot.

3. Invest in quality materials: The quality of your rigging directly impacts its longevity and performance . Opt for high-quality stainless steel wires, synthetic fibers like Dyneema, or carbon fiber alternatives when replacing old rigging components, as these materials offer superior strength-to-weight ratios.

4. Tuning adjustments: To maximize sail shape control, experiment with adjusting the tension of your stays and shrouds during different weather conditions or sailing angles. Fine-tuning these tensions can lead to significant improvements in both speed and responsiveness while ensuring optimum aerodynamic performance at all times.

5. Seek professional advice: Don’t hesitate to reach out to experts in yacht rigging or naval architects for specialist input regarding optimizing your sailboat’s rigging setup. Their expertise can guide you towards refined techniques tailored to suit specific vessel designs or sailing goals.

In conclusion, understanding how sailboat stays and shrouds impact performance is crucial for any sailor aiming to maximize efficiency on the water. By recognizing their significance as key structural supports influencing sail shape control and windward performance, you can optimize your vessel’s potential while enjoying more thrilling voyages than ever before! So make sure to prioritize regular inspections, correct tensioning methods, high-quality materials, tuning adjustments, and professional guidance to unlock the true potential of your sailboat.

Essential Maintenance Tips for Maintaining the Integrity of Sailboat Stays and Shrouds

Sailboat owners and enthusiasts know the importance of regular maintenance to keep their vessels in top condition. Among the vital components that require particular attention are the stays and shrouds – key structural elements that ensure the integrity of a sailboat’s mast and rigging system.

Stays and shrouds are essentially wires or cables that provide crucial support to the mast, allowing it to properly withstand wind pressures and maintain stability during sailing. As they play such a pivotal role in your sailboat’s performance and safety, it is essential to implement regular maintenance practices to ensure their longevity and functionality.

To help you maintain the integrity of your sailboat’s stays and shrouds, we have compiled some essential tips that will not only enhance their lifespan but also contribute to your overall sailing experience:

1. Visual Inspection: Regularly conduct visual inspections of all stays and shrouds with an eagle eye for any signs of wear or damage. Look for frayed or broken strands, corrosion, stretched areas, or loose fittings. It is better to address minor issues early on rather than waiting for them to become major problems.

2. Tension Monitoring: Check the tension of your stays regularly using a suitable tension gauge or by following manufacturer guidelines. Proper tension ensures optimal performance while avoiding excessive strain on both mast and rigging components.

3. Corrosion Control: Saltwater exposure can accelerate corrosion on metal components like turnbuckles, shackles, or terminals. Routinely clean these parts using freshwater after each outing while inspecting them for signs of rust. Applying protective coatings like anti-corrosion sprays can also significantly extend their lifespan.

4. Lubrication: Maintaining a smooth operation within turnbuckles is crucial for proper tension adjustment as well as preventing corrosion seizing between threaded components (e.g., adjusters). Apply marine-grade lubricants periodically, ensuring even distribution across all moving parts.

5. Regular Rig Tuning: Appreciate the importance of proper rig tuning to optimize sail shape and overall stability. Work with a professional rigger to adjust the tension on your sails and shrouds, correcting any sag or excessive flex.

6. Replacing Components: If you notice any signs of wear that cannot be resolved through cleaning, lubrication, or tension adjustment, consider replacing the affected components immediately with high-quality replacements. Neglecting worn stays or shrouds can compromise your sailboat ‘s safety and performance.

7. Professional Rig Inspection: Schedule a professional rig inspection at least once every two years, especially if you engage in more frequent or rigorous sailing activities. Rigging experts have the experience and knowledge to detect potential weaknesses that may not be readily evident to an untrained eye, helping you avoid costly breakdowns during crucial moments.

Remember, maintaining the integrity of sailboat stays and shrouds should be an ongoing priority for all passionate sailors. By following these essential maintenance tips and providing regular care to these vital elements, you can ensure your vessel is ready to conquer waves with reliability and grace. So set sail with confidence knowing that your rigging system is in optimal condition!

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Standing Rigging (or ‘Name That Stay’)

Published by rigworks on november 19, 2019.

Question: When your riggers talk about standing rigging, they often use terms I don’t recognize. Can you break it down for me?

From the Rigger: Let’s play ‘Name that Stay’…

Forestay (1 or HS) – The forestay, or headstay, connects the mast to the front (bow) of the boat and keeps your mast from falling aft.

• Your forestay can be full length (masthead to deck) or fractional (1/8 to 1/4 from the top of the mast to the deck).
• Inner forestays, including staysail stays, solent stays and baby stays, connect to the mast below the main forestay and to the deck aft of the main forestay. Inner forestays allow you to hoist small inner headsails and/or provide additional stability to your rig.

Backstay (2 or BS) – The backstay runs from the mast to the back of the boat (transom) and is often adjustable to control forestay tension and the shape of the sails.

• A backstay can be either continuous (direct from mast to transom) or it may split in the lower section (7) with “legs” that ‘V’ out to the edges of the transom.
• Backstays often have hydraulic or manual tensioners built into them to increase forestay tension and bend the mast, which flattens your mainsail.
• Running backstays can be removable, adjustable, and provide additional support and tuning usually on fractional rigs. They run to the outer edges of the transom and are adjusted with each tack. The windward running back is in tension and the leeward is eased so as not to interfere with the boom and sails.
• Checkstays, useful on fractional rigs with bendy masts, are attached well below the backstay and provide aft tension to the mid panels of the mast to reduce mast bend and provide stabilization to reduce the mast from pumping.

Shrouds – Shrouds support the mast from side to side. Shrouds are either continuous or discontinuous .

Continuous rigging, common in production sailboats, means that each shroud (except the lowers) is a continuous piece of material that connects to the mast at some point, passes through the spreaders without terminating, and continues to the deck. There may be a number of continuous shrouds on your boat ( see Figure 1 ).

• Cap shrouds (3) , sometimes called uppers, extend from masthead to the chainplates at the deck.
• Intermediate shrouds (4) extend from mid-mast panel to deck.
• Lower shrouds extend from below the spreader-base to the chainplates. Fore- (5) and Aft-Lowers (6) connect to the deck either forward or aft of the cap shroud.

Discontinuous rigging, common on high performance sailboats, is a series of shorter lengths that terminate in tip cups at each spreader. The diameter of the wire/rod can be reduced in the upper sections where loads are lighter, reducing overall weight. These independent sections are referred to as V# and D# ( see Figure 2 ). For example, V1 is the lowest vertical shroud that extends from the deck to the outer tip of the first spreader. D1 is the lowest diagonal shroud that extends from the deck to the mast at the base of the first spreader. The highest section that extends from the upper spreader to the mast head may be labeled either V# or D#.

A sailboat’s standing rigging is generally built from wire rope, rod, or occasionally a super-strong synthetic fibered rope such as Dyneema ® , carbon fiber, kevlar or PBO.

• 1×19 316 grade stainless steel Wire Rope (1 group of 19 wires, very stiff with low stretch) is standard on most sailboats. Wire rope is sized/priced by its diameter which varies from boat to boat, 3/16” through 1/2″ being the most common range.
• 1×19 Compact Strand or Dyform wire, a more expensive alternative, is used to increase strength, reduce stretch, and minimize diameter on high performance boats such as catamarans. It is also the best alternative when replacing rod with wire.
• Rod rigging offers lower stretch, longer life expectancy, and higher breaking strength than wire. Unlike wire rope, rod is defined by its breaking strength, usually ranging from -10 to -40 (approx. 10k to 40k breaking strength), rather than diameter. So, for example, we refer to 7/16” wire (diameter) vs. -10 Rod (breaking strength).
• Composite Rigging is a popular option for racing boats. It offers comparable breaking strengths to wire and rod with a significant reduction in weight and often lower stretch.

Are your eyes crossing yet? This is probably enough for now, but stay tuned for our next ‘Ask the Rigger’. We will continue this discussion with some of the fittings/connections/hardware associated with your standing rigging.

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Practical Boat Owner

• Digital edition

How to set up your rig: tension your shrouds on masthead or fractional

• David Harding
• March 15, 2021

How to set up three common types of rig: the traditional masthead with a single set of in-line spreaders, single-spreader swept fractional rigs, and fractional rigs with two sets of swept spreaders. David Harding reports

How to set up your rig : tension your shrouds on masthead or fractional

If boats were cars, many of those I see sailing along would be coughing and spluttering down the motorway at 35mph in third gear with three flat tyres and a smoky exhaust. Others would cruise past in top gear at 70, making half the noise and using a fraction of the fuel.

Would these top-gear drivers be working any harder? Would they have cars that were faster by design and more expensive? Not at all. They would simply be the ones who had pumped up their tyres, learned their way around the gearbox and had their engines serviced.

It’s worth keeping an eye on your leeward cap shrouds during early-season outings after the mast has been re-stepped. The ones on this yacht could do with a little more tension

The obvious question, then, is why so many boat owners seem to leave their quest for efficiency and economy on the dockside.

One answer is that many are unaware how inefficiently their boats are performing. Another is that there’s no MOT for sailing boats and no driving test to make sure people know how to sail them (thank goodness on both counts).

Whatever the reasons, the fact remains that an efficient rig is fundamental. If the rig’s not right, the sails have no hope of setting properly.

And that’s important whether you’re racing or cruising, because sailors of both persuasions ultimately want the same: maximum lift for minimum drag.

For racers, that means more speed and better results. They carry more sail because they have more crew to handle it and more weight on the rail to balance it.

Cruisers carry less sail but, if it works efficiently, it means less heel, less leeway, better pointing, less tacking, a lighter helm and greater comfort than if it’s working inefficiently – plus the ability to get home before night falls or the pub shuts. Who can object to that?

What matters is that the sail you’re carrying is driving you forwards, not pushing you sideways.

When I question cruising sailors about the state of their rig I often get the reply ‘Oh it doesn’t matter – I’m not racing!’.

Those I know who have done something about it, however, have been delighted by the transformation their boats have undergone and have had to agree that cruising fast and comfortably is definitely better.

Setting up your boat rigging

In this article we’re going to look at how to set up the three most common types of rig: the traditional masthead with a single set of in-line spreaders, single-spreader swept fractional rigs, and fractional rigs with two sets of swept spreaders.

For simplicity we’re assuming the use of 1×19 rigging except where mentioned otherwise.

Variations in boat rig type are almost infinite by the time you take into account deck-stepped and keel-stepped masts, masthead rigs with swept spreaders, jumper struts, fractional rigs with in-line spreaders, and so on.

Once you understand the basics, however, you’ll find that you can apply your knowledge to good effect on most types of rig.

Rig tuning is not only for the experts. Experience helps, of course, and a multiple-spreader fractional rig is harder to tune than an old tree-trunk of a masthead rig from the 1970s.

Nonetheless, with practice, a good eye and some observation you will probably find you can set it up pretty well.

You might want to call in a rigger or an experienced rig-tweaker to help or to do it for you the first time, and perhaps to check it periodically thereafter, but at least if you know what to look for you’ll notice when anything needs adjusting.

A word of warning when it comes to boatyards that have re-stepped your mast: sometimes re-stepping means just that and no more.

I have been on boats whose owners have assumed that the yard had set up the rig, whereas in fact it had just been dropped in and the bottlescrews hand-tensioned to stop it falling over.

It’s scary to think of the number of boats that must have been sailed in this condition.

What you will need to tune your rig Essential A calm day: don’t try setting up your rig in more than a few knots of wind A boat that’s floating level fore-and-aft (and preferably laterally as well) Screwdriver/lever bar Spanners (fixed or adjustable) Needle-nose pliers for split-pins Electrical insulation or self-amalgamating tape Lubricant for bottlescrews Tape measure (folding/small cassette type, or ideally folding rule) Useful Spring balance Long tape-measure Rig-tension gauge

The importance of enough tension: Why tight is right

If you think you’re being kind to your boat by leaving the rigging slack, think again. It’s true that some keelboats (such as Squibs and XODs) sail with the leeward cap shroud waving around in the wind, but that doesn’t work on yachts designed to go to sea.

Rigging that’s under-tensioned puts infinitely more load on the wire, bottlescrews, terminals and hull structure because of the snatch loads every time the boat falls off a wave. When it hits the bottom of the trough, anything that’s free to move gets thrown forwards and sideways before being brought up short by whatever happens to be in the way to stop it. That applies to the crew, to loose gear down below or to the mast. Think of the inertia to which a mast is subjected because of its height, and you can imagine the loads involved.

If the rigging is sensibly tight, on the other hand, movement and the consequent stresses are minimised.

Boats are built to withstand the static loads of a properly-tensioned rig, but asking them to cope with constant snatch loading is unfair – so don’t kill your boat with kindness.

As we discuss in the sections on the types of rig (below), masthead configurations with in-line spreaders need less cap-shroud tension than swept-spreader fractional rigs. This is because in-line caps are only supporting the mast laterally. The backstay stops it moving forwards, so each wire has a separate, clearly-defined role.

Aft-swept caps support the mast both laterally and fore-and-aft. Being swept aft typically about 25°, they need to be under a lot of tension to keep the forestay tight. Because they’re also at a much shallower angle to the mast, they bear between three and five times the load of the forestay.

With fractional rigs, then, it’s vital to keep the cap shrouds tight. If they’re too loose, the forestay will sag too much, the headsail will become too full and its leech will be too tight. Then the boat will become unbalanced, heel too far, make more leeway and lose both speed and pointing ability.

Structurally, under-tensioned rigging with a swept-spreader rig presents a problem in addition to the issue of snatch loading. Tension in the leeward cap shroud is important in keeping the mast in column, to the extent that Loos and Co (the manufacturer of the popular rig-tension gauges) states that a mast loses 50% of its lateral stiffness when the leeward cap goes slack. When this happens, the mast is effectively hinging around the forestay and the windward cap shroud and is far more prone to pumping as the boat bounces around.

The main reason why under-tensioned rigs on cruising boats stay standing as they do is that manufacturers build in enormous margins.

Even so, proper tension means better performance and greater safety. The ‘it doesn’t matter – I’m only cruising’ excuse for slack rigging just doesn’t cut it!

How to measure rig tension

This Loos gauge (left image) is indicating that the 6mm wire in the cap shroud is at 22% of its breaking strain (730kg). To measure the stretch, extend a tape measure (right) (or ideally a folding rule) to 2,000mm and mark this distance up the wire…

…but start with the end of the tape a couple of millimetres above the top of the swaging. As the wire is tensioned it will stretch, increasing the gap below the end of the tape.

Experienced riggers and rig-tweakers will often tension the rigging at the dockside by feel, then sight up the mast and make any adjustments under way.

Most people aren’t confident enough to do this, though – so what are the best ways to check the tension as you wind down the bottlescrews?

The simplest and quickest way is to use a rig-tension meter, such as the Loos gauge. Once you know the diameter of the wire, it will give you the load both in kg and as a percentage of its breaking strain.

The gauge for rigging of 5m and 6mm (and up to 14% of breaking strain on 7mm) typically costs around £65, while the bigger version for wire from 7mm to 10mm is closer to £200.

If you don’t have a tension gauge, you can calculate the percentage of a wire’s breaking strain by measuring its stretch, normally over a distance of 2m: when 1×19 wire has stretched by 1mm over a 2,000mm length, it’s at 5% of its breaking load whatever its diameter.

Most cruising boats have rigging made from 1×19 wire. On sportier boats, it might be Dyform or rod, in which case 5% of breaking load is indicated by stretch of 0.95 and 0.7mm respectively. For the purpose of our illustrations, we’ll assume 1×19.

For accurate measurement the rigging needs to be completely slack. Hold the end of the tape a couple of millimetres above the top of the swaging, then measure 2,000mm up the wire, secure the other end of the tape here and start tensioning. When the gap between the top of the swaging and the end of the tape has increased by 1mm, you have reached 5% of the wire’s breaking strain, so 3mm equates to 15% and 5mm to 25%.

Bear in mind that 1×19 wire will be affected by bedding-in stretch during its first few outings, so new rigging will need to be re-tensioned a time or two during the first season.

Sensible precautions 1. Don’t force dry bottlescrews: keep them well lubricated. 2. Don’t use massively long tools for extra leverage on the bottlescrews. If you can feel the load, you’re less likely to strain or break anything. 3. Most boats will flex to some extent when the rig is properly tensioned. If you’re concerned about excessive bend, take it easy, use a straight edge across the deck to check for movement, and seek advice. 4. The percentages of breaking load quoted assume that the rigging is of the correct diameter as specified by the designer, builder or rigger.

How to set up a masthead rig with single in-line spreaders

This is the simplest type of rig to set up. Whether it’s keel-stepped or deck-stepped and supported by forward lowers or a babystay, it’s the same basic procedure.

Step 1: Get the mast upright athwartships

Measure the distance to fixed points on both sides that are symmetrical about the centreline, such as the base of the chainplates.

If you don’t have a long tape measure, use the halyard itself (this is where a spring balance can help you gauge the same tension on each side).

Centre the masthead by adjusting the port and starboard cap shrouds until the measurements are the same, then hand-tighten the bottlescrews by taking the same number of turns on each side.

Re-check and adjust as necessary.

A long tape measure is useful for getting the mast upright.

Step 2: Setting the rake

Rake is determined principally by the length of the forestay. Some roller-reefing systems allow no adjustment but you can increase length by adding toggles.

Adjust the forestay and backstay, checking the rake with a weight suspended from the end of the main halyard. One degree of rake is about 6in (15cm) in 30ft (9m).

Hand-tight on the backstay’s bottlescrew (or gentle use of the tensioner) is fine at this stage.

Rake is measured from the aft face of the mast, at or below boom-level. If the boat’s rocking around, suspend the weight in a bucket of water to dampen the movement.

Step 3: Tighten the cap shrouds and backstay

Take no more than two or three full turns on one side before doing the same on the other.

Count carefully.

You’re aiming to tension the caps to 15% of their breaking strain, measured as explained on page 41.

That might be much tighter than you’ve ever had them before!

Tension the backstay to 15% of its breaking load.

Note: Using ordinary hand-tools on the bottlescrews, it’s hard to over-tension the rigging

Step 4: Tighten the lowers / babystay

A mast should bend forward in the middle, though only to a small extent on masthead rigs of heavy section.

This ‘pre-bend’ is principally to counter two factors in heavy weather: increased forestay loads pulling the top of the mast forward, and the head of a reefed mainsail pulling the middle aft.

Together, they can result in the middle of the mast bowing aft, which makes it unstable and is bad for sail trim. For maximum strength in extremis it should be straight.

Use the forward lowers or babystay to pull the middle of the mast forward. The bend thus induced should be no more than half the mast’s fore-and-aft measurement.

Then take up the slack in the aft lowers.

They don’t need to be tight; they’re just countering the forward pull.

Sight up the luff groove to make sure the mast is straight laterally. Correct any deflections with the lowers.

If you set up the caps properly to start with, you should not adjust them again at this stage.

Step 5: Check the rig under sail

First, make sure the leeward cap shroud isn’t waving around in the breeze. You should be able to deflect it with a finger by a few inches; no more.

If it’s too loose, take a turn or two on the leeward bottlescrew, then tack and do the same on the other side.

Now sight up the back of the mast.

It should be straight athwartships and bending slightly forward in the middle.

Athwartships deflection might make it look as though the top is falling away to one side (see diagram), but it won’t be if it was centred properly in Step 1. Straighten the middle by adjusting the lowers

If it’s straight or bending aft in the middle, try increasing the backstay tension (but not beyond 30% of its breaking strain) and, if necessary, tensioning the forward lowers/babystay and slackening the aft lowers.

Remove any lateral bends by adjusting the lowers.

Once you’re happy, lock off the bottlescrews to make sure they can’t come undone.

Inverted bend (mast bowing aft in the middle) is bad for sail trim and potentially dangerous for the rig.

Setting up a fractional rig with single, aft-swept spreaders

Widely used on smaller cruisers and cruiser/racers, this configuration needs a very different approach from an in-line masthead rig

This stage is the same as with a masthead rig (scroll up).

Step 2: Set the rake

This time, however, rake is set by the forestay and cap shrouds rather than the forestay and backstay.

With a swept-spreader fractional rig it’s the cap shrouds, not the backstay, that stop the mast moving forward. They provide both fore-and-aft and lateral support, so they’re doing two jobs.

The backstay’s principal role is to control the topmast and mast-bend. Because it’s above the point where the forestay joins the mast, it’s not pulling directly against the forestay and therefore has less effect on forestay tension. How much it pulls against the forestay depends on factors including the height of the topmast, the stiffness of the mast section and the tension of the lower shrouds (which determine the bend).

Step 3: Tighten the cap shrouds

Forestay tension is achieved primarily through the caps, and because they’re swept back at such a shallow angle they need to be seriously tight.

Their maximum tension is 25% of breaking load, but it’s best not to tension them all the way in one go because that would result in a very bent mast: tensioning the caps pushes the spreaders, and therefore the middle of the mast, forward.

Start by taking them to about 15% of breaking load, then tighten the lowers to pull the middle of the mast back so it’s straight.

This is how the swept-spreader fractional rig works: the caps and lowers are working against each other, caps pushing and lowers pulling, to stabilise the middle of the mast. Sight up the mast when it’s straight to check for lateral deflection, correcting it with the lowers.

With a flexible mast you might need to repeat the process, taking the caps to 20% before tensioning the lowers again.

Otherwise go straight to the next stage, which is to pull on the backstay.

Since the backstays on fractional rigs often have cascade purchases at the bottom you can’t measure the tension by stretch as you can with wire, so you have to do this by feel: pull it tight, but don’t go mad.

Tensioning the backstay bends the mast and therefore shortens the distance from the hounds (where the caps join) to the deck. This loosens the caps, so it’s easier to tension them back to the 20% mark.

When you let the backstay off, the caps will tension again and should be at about 25% of breaking load – but no more.

Step 4: Set the pre-bend

Take a few turns on the lowers to achieve the right amount of pre-bend. It should be more than with an in-line masthead rig, but a mast should never bend to more than 2% of the height of the foretriangle even with the backstay tensioned (that’s about 180mm in 9m, or 7in in 30ft).

Check to see how far the mast bends with a tight backstay. The optimum bend will often be determined by the cut of the mainsail, or recommended by the sailmaker or class association.

Pre-bend is vital because most fractional rigs don’t have forward lowers or a babystay, so if the mast were to bend aft in the middle (inverted bend) it could collapse.

In fresh conditions, especially under spinnaker , it’s a wise precaution never to release the backstay completely. That stops the upper section of the mast being pulled too far forward.

The caps should be tighter than with a masthead rig, with no significant slack on the leeward side when the boat’s hard on the wind and heeling 15-20°.

If the static tension is up to 25% but the leeward cap is always slack, the boat might be bending. That’s a topic beyond the scope of this article!

Sight up the mast to check the bend both fore-and-aft and athwartships, adjusting the lowers as necessary.

Setting up a fractional rig with two sets of aft-swept spreaders

As mast sections have become slimmer, this is now a popular configuration on boats between 30ft (9m) and 40ft (12m) but it’s more complex to tune.

This stage is the same as with the other types of rig.

Follow the procedure as described for single-spreader fractional rigs. Generally speaking, more rake improves upwind performance but too much will induce excessive weather helm and hamper performance downwind. Getting it right might involve some trial and error.

Steps 3 & 4: Tighten the caps and set the bend

The same fundamentals apply as for a single-spreader rig, but this time after each tensioning of the cap shrouds, which induces bend, you have to straighten the mast by tensioning both the lowers (also known as D1s) and the intermediates (D2s).

The D1s control the bend between the deck and the upper spreaders and the D2s between the lower spreaders and the hounds, so their areas of influence overlap.

On boats where the D2s terminate at the lower spreaders you have to send someone aloft to adjust them. These are referred to as discontinuous intermediates.

If they run over the spreader tips and down to the chainplates (continuous intermediates) you can do everything from on deck.

You need to achieve an even bend fore-and-aft. If the mast is bending too much at the bottom and is too straight at the top, tighten the D1s and slacken the D2s.

S-bends can creep in athwartships and make it look as though the top of the mast is off-centre. If you set up the cap shrouds properly it shouldn’t be, so don’t fiddle with them any further now: take out the bends with the D1s and D2s.

You’re aiming for a cap-shroud tension of 20-25% of breaking strain, as with a single-spreader fractional rig, and again the sweep-back of the spreader means that the caps will be slackened as you pull on the backstay.

As with other types of rig, get the boat heeling around 20° on the wind, tension the backstay and feel the leeward cap to make sure there’s only minimal slack.

Removing any kinks and S-bends can take more tweaking of lowers and intermediates, the latter being more fiddly to adjust if they’re discontinuous.

If the masthead looks as though it’s falling off one way, it’s probably because the D2 on the opposite side is too tight.

Left: Windward lower too loose. Right: Windward intermediate too tight.

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Rig for a Staysail

• By Don Street
• Updated: March 14, 2013

Any bluewater-bound sloop with a genoa on a roller furler should be equipped with a removable inner forestay and carry a heavy-weather staysail that can be easily and rapidly set up when it starts to blow. To preserve the boat’s balance and ability to sail to windward, headsail sail area has to be reduced beyond what’s efficient with the roller reefing alone.

Heading to a destination upwind in a building breeze is the time to roll up the genoa, set up the removable inner forestay, and hoist and trim the already hanked-on staysail that’s been stowed in a turtle bag with sheets attached using a cow hitch, not bowlines, which can shake themselves loose.

The removable stay and bagged sail are stored by the mast when not in use and then brought forward, and the stay is tensioned using a lever that is powerful enough to properly tighten the wire without the need to adjust a turnbuckle or other tensioning device.

When you install this equipment, make sure that the inner stay runs parallel to the headstay, meeting the mast about two-thirds of the hoist of the foretriangle. This means that the stay will meet the mast at about the same place as the head of the reefed main. Most cruising-boat masts are sufficiently overbuilt that when the boat is hard on the wind, the leech of the main will support the load of the staysail stay. Once the stay is installed, with a T-fitting at one end, use the turnbuckle at the other to set the proper tension with the tensioning lever engaged. Once set, reverse the stay end for end, so that the turnbuckle is now at the end connected to the mast; now only the T-fitting needs to be secured when not in use. This keeps the heavy hardware from bouncing around on deck.

The staysail stay’s attachment point on deck must be reinforced and either tied into the forward bulkhead below or supported by an installed rod or removable wire strap that runs to an attachment point on the hull.

The heavy-weather staysail should have no overlap, and the clew should reach right down to the deck. When the boat is tacking, the amount of sheet between the clew and the sheet lead is so short that it can be taken in with few turns of the winch.

Rigged like this, the typical cruising boat should be able to work to windward in 25 knots, with gusts to 30.

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Tension of Standing Rigging

• Add to quote
• Two forward stays
• Three standing/main stays
• Two strongbacks (high tension running back stays)
• One forward stay (rigged to the foremast)
• Four standing/main stays (one forward one aft and one pair of two center of the mast)
• One fully adjustable running back stay (only tightened/loosened by hand using some compound pulleys and a line clip - whatever those are called)

Sure, if you go downwind in five knots of wind. Otherwise, the tension of the stays is usually determined by a number of factors, primary among them the type of mast you have, the diameter of the stays and shrouds, the "rake" of the mast, and the type of sailing you do. Most stays are too slack, i.e. the rig is not optimally tuned. This can be seen on each tack, where the lee shrouds are slack. Too much slack leads to too much mast movement, work hardening, wear and crappy sail performance: The stays are the "ligaments" of the rig, with the mast, hull and chainplates forming the "skeleton" which transfers the power of the wind in the sails to move the boat. Slack stays=poor transfer, wear and eventually failure. Consider borrowing or buying a Loos or other type of tension gauge, and determine the usual rig tensioning for your boat. Check all chainplates FIRST, because you want to ensure that the reason the stays are loose in the first place is because the chainplates are half pulled apart. Ask for help. It's not an amateur job, but it's one easily learned and the results may surprise you. Rigging Tension: Information from Answers.com  

Valiente said: Sure, if you go downwind in five knots of wind. Otherwise, the tension of the stays is usually determined by a number of factors, primary among them the type of mast you have, the diameter of the stays and shrouds, the "rake" of the mast, and the type of sailing you do. Most stays are too slack, i.e. the rig is not optimally tuned. This can be seen on each tack, where the lee shrouds are slack. Too much slack leads to too much mast movement, work hardening, wear and crappy sail performance: The stays are the "ligaments" of the rig, with the mast, hull and chainplates forming the "skeleton" which transfers the power of the wind in the sails to move the boat. Slack stays=poor transfer, wear and eventually failure. Click to expand...

Consider borrowing or buying a Loos or other type of tension gauge, and determine the usual rig tensioning for your boat. Check all chainplates FIRST, because you want to ensure that the reason the stays are loose in the first place is because the chainplates are half pulled apart. Click to expand...

Yep, that's correct. Inspect the chainplates for wear, oval boltholes and cracked knees first, prior to spinning the turnbuckle to half a ton of tension.  

Heh, shows what I know. I'll buy a tension gauge and see if I can't find a local expert to help me out with this. I don't really know anyone suitable, maybe I'll hire someone. Determining the "usual" rig tensioning for my boat is going to be very difficult if not impossible. There aren't very many of these boats out there. Although my tensioning might need to be similar to other models by the same shipyard, but I would sort of doubt that since the other models this size have completely different rigging.  

This is exactly what we did just before we headed out 8+ years ago. We had a Loos guage but what should the tension be. Had a professional rigger come over, a guy who a lot of racers hired for their boats, and had him tune the rig and wrote down the settings. Each year I check the rigging. Had to change out one stay in Trinidad before we left for an Atlantic crossing and again had a pro check it - that was after 5 years. On our third year in the Med we noticed that tension measures were close to what they were but we had a stay that looked liked it needed addition tension but not sure if it would move the stick a but to much so had a pro take a look at it in Sicily and he agreed that it needed a bit of turning and adjusted both sides to keep it correct. Have a pro do it, get a Loos guage and write down the settings then keep it up.  

I have just purchased a rig tensioning tool. I have a Leisure 23SL and am trying to find out what tension to set on my 4mm stainless steel rigging but can't find any reference to tensioning the rigging anywhere. Can anyone help please  

NB that as you increase the rig tension you are shortening the length of the shroud... and this means that you are forcing the hull to deform... ever so slightly. You can determine how much increase by how much you shorten/tighten your rigging once it is not slack (hand tight).. by measuring the length reduction from screwing down the turnbuckles. You tension a shroud to 15% of its yield strength. It is a fundamental requirement for all rig types that the cap shrouds are correctly tensioned. The cap shrouds are adjusted at the dockside, but final tuning is done while sailing. The table beside applies to standing rigging using 1 x 19 stainless wire. This is the most commonly used material for standing rigging. Your aim should be to tension the cap shrouds to 15-20% of the breaking load (the final check on tuning should be left until you are under sail). Then you know that the lateral staying is optimal both for the security of the rig and for sailing performance. There are measuring instruments of greater or lesser reliability for this purpose on the market. Seldén has developed a simple method of obtaining the information you need with material you probably already have. What you need to know is: • All 1 x 19 stainless wire stretches under load, but returns to its original length when the load is removed. 1 mm stretch per 2 m wire is equivalent to 5% of the breaking load, irrespective of the diameter of the wire. • A grp hull, on the other hand, changes its shape permanently when the rig is put under load. This makes it necessary to set up the rigging again after some time. This applies particularly to new yachts. • At the dockside, both cap shrouds always have the same load. If you tension the starboard shroud, the port shroud is affected to precisely the same extent The following materials are required: 1. A 2 metre long measuring rod (a folding rule is recommended) 2. Adhesive tape 3. Vernier callipers • Start with the cap shrouds only hand-tight. The rig is stayed with the lower shrouds and the forestay and backstay. • Tape the upper end of the folding rule to the starboard cap shroud. The lower end of the folding rule must be approximately 5 mm above the upper end of the wire terminal. Measure the distance between terminal and folding rule exactly. This is index 0, let's call it point A. • Tension the starboard cap shroud until the distance is A + 1.5 mm between the terminal and the folding rule. Measure using the vernier callipers. • Leave the folding rule attached to the starboard shroud, and move across to the port side and tension the shroud rigging screw the equivalent amount. • At intervals, check the starboard side to see how much the folding rule has moved from the end terminal. When there is a gap of A + 3 mm, the cap shrouds are tensioned to 15% of the breaking load of the wire (3 x 5% = 15%). If the mast is not straight, adjust the lower shrouds, intermediate shrouds etc. The folding rule method can be used on other stays, such as the backstay and forestay (without jib furling system). It can also be used for Dyform- or rod rigging, but please take the difference in stretch into account compared to 1 x 19 wire. The breaking loads for various dimensions of 1 x 19 strand wire. Wire Ø..................kN ....................lbs Ø 3.......................8....................1,770 Ø 4......................14...................3,090 Ø 5......................22...................4,860 Ø 6......................31...................6,845 Ø 7......................43...................9,490 Ø 8......................56.................12,360 Ø 10.....................88..................19,425 Ø 12....................126.................27,815 Ø 14....................171.................37,750 Ø 16....................216.................47,680  

• Start with the cap shrouds only hand-tight. The rig is stayed with the lower shrouds and the forestay and backstay. Click to expand...

Barquito said: Nice write-up SanderO. One part I don't understand: Wouldn't it make a huge difference, that the port and stbd shrouds may not start at the same length? Do you just center the mast after getting to the proper tension? Click to expand...

Where I am sailing we put the boats on the hard over the winter. Usually without masts, ie unstep in the fall and step in the spring. Should we have pro's to do the rigging? No reason, none at all. It is easy-peasy to set the rig. There are many methods, each to their own, but most work fine. There are many theories as well, the same with those. When I step the mast I make a first setting of the rig. As both rig and boat will have stretched after a week, this is just a preliminary setting. Oh yes, start with the cap shrouds. see to that there is no inversion. As I have a partial rig, no real issues with fore and aft stays. Next step happens 1-2 weeks later. Tighten so it feels right, no science behind this. See to that the mast is stright. This is usually enough. Possible to follow up with a sailing tour an afternoon in about 8-10 m/s wind (16-20 knots). Lee shrouds should just start to slack. It is so nice to claim a very tight rig. Works fine for racing. But no need for normal cruising. Problem with high tension is the high static forces applied on the boat, all the time. /J  

First and I have repeated this ad nauseum, YOU DO NOT TENSION THE SHROUDS TO SOME % OF THEIR BREAKING STRENGTH. It may be true that most shrouds are tensioned to between 10-20% of their MBL, but this is not how you set tension. There are two goals with rig tension, the first is to induce proper prebend. Basically how much the face of the mast bends backwards over the length of the mast, from the hounds to the top. Prebend really changes based on the cut of the sail and the conditions, but most cruisers set it for 15kn of breeze. Ideally you reduce prebend for light air, and increase it for heavy air, but many cruisers just don't bother, or have a hydrolic backstay required to change it on the fly. Anyway, after the amount of prebend is set, then the only tension to apply is just enough to keep the mast in column while sailing upwind. That's it. How much tension it takes just depends on the boat. It doesn't take a professional, and it isn't that complicated. 0) set prebend based on the cut of the sail 1) at the dock get the top of the mast centered by snugging up the top shrouds and working your way down the rig. 2) once the mast is centered make sure all the shrouds are snug, you can put a gague on them if you want, I don't bother. If you do just set them to the same tension. 3) go sailing and beat upwind in 5-10kn of breeze. Ideally in flat water 4) while beating look up the rig, is it still in column? If so you are done, but it won't be. So take in two full turns on the leeward shroud. 5) tack the boat 6) take up two full turns on the leeward shroud (So the shrouds on each side match) 7) look up the mast, is it in column? If not then take in two more turns on the leeward shroud 8) go back to 5 Once the mast remains in column on each side, take a tension reading on the shrouds. Then equalize them. Take a 1/4 turn off of the higher and add 1/4 turn to the lower. Then remeasure and confirm the mast stays in column. If it does then you are done, if not then you may have a slight imperfection either in the mast but placement, the mast hounds, or the chainplates. Track those down if you want, or just retension until the mast stays in column on either tack. Congratulations your boat is now tuned for those conditions! We have a base number from which to work. Next time you go sailing in say 15-20kn of breeze start at #5 and retension the boat for the higher wind speeds. It will take more tension, but how much again depends on the boat. Probably in the range of 1-2 turns. Personally I don't use a loose gague, because I don't care what the tension is, I use a set on machinist calipers to measure the distance between the rigging screws. This means I can always get back to my neutral numbers even if I forget how many turns I have added or taken off. The average shroud tension for moderate breeze is going to be somewhere around 10-15% MBL is mentioned above, but I know boats that sail with tension as high as 35% and as low as 3% of the MBL of their shrouds. For a more detailed look speak with a sail maker, North has a good write up, and PS Boat Clinic: Tuning the Masthead Rig - Web Only Article has a good one. Ideally of course your boat has been raced a lot and the class has a tuning guide for the boat. This is where tension gauges are great, because rig tension is the only way to exchange tuning numbers. 150lbs of tension on my J-22 is exactly the same as on your j-22, but 3.275" (stud to stud measurement) on my J-22 port cap shroud has no relation to yours.  

I have adjusted the tension on my standing rigging on the Coronado 23 MkII by centering the mast and fine tuning under sail. I was a little intimidated by the big boat's over-sized rigging but I now plan to proceed as described above - keeping the mast in column (except for pre-bend).  

But there is no pre bend needed on fractional rigs where the backstay creates mast bend.  

Um, I am not sure what fractional S you have tuned but as a rule they carry far more pre-bend and rake than a masthead rig. In large part because fractional rigs are far more prone to rig inversion than mast head rigs are. The additional prebend also makes it much easier to induce more bend in the mast with the backstay. The upside is that fractional rigs generally also have swept back cap shrouds, which as they are tightened induces prebend faster than with a masthead and strait shrouds.  

Get a Loos gauge or equivalent - it's the only way to get 15% on all the wires. I've found 30% and 40% difference from one to another with the tightest being well under 15% when they "felt" the same and "felt" tight enough. Some people recommend tightening keel bolts with a wrench with a piece of pipe on it and tightening the nuts "until the suckers scream". I prefer to use a torque wrench. Same thing IMO.  

I can only speak for the fractional swept back single spreader deck stepped Selden rig I have. The mast is rigged without pre bend and the bend is created by increasing the back stay tension. The mast is 51' tall.  

This is probably the most comprehensive rig tuning guide on the internet: http://www.riggingandsails.com/pdf/selden-tuning.pdf indeed a tension gage is needed; however, the information in this guide provides an alternative method using a 'meter stick' and an eyeball. One of the secondary functions of a tension gage is to continualy monitor the rig for permanent overstretching (yield/deformation) of wire and components & including chainplates and their attachments. If you sail your boat 'hard' or very aggresively, you can also monitor the rig while underway in boisterous conditions to ensure that the rig tension doesn't exceed about 30% wire tension ... the point at which most stainless wire begins to stretch or permanently deform (depending on how much 'safety factor' the designer included in his/her design) and the point at above which the potential of future fatigue failure rapidly accumulates. The following advice will allow you to 'properly' adjust backstay tension while underway and need to adjust for the wind strength encountered (a technical discussion or maximizing boat performance): http://www.ftp.tognews.com/GoogleFiles/Matching Luff Hollow.pdf  

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Side stay tension

• Thread starter fourbabygrands
• Start date Dec 5, 2011
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

fourbabygrands

Hello all I have a 26ft catalina capri and am curious about the side stay tension...I had the spar professional replaced and with it, new stays...the rigger out of Annapolis tuned the stays to the following...in the dock, the upper side stays are equal and taught and the lower side stays are not slack, but not real tight either. Under sail the windward upper and lower side stays are tight and the spar is straight, at the same time the leeward side upper stays have tension and the lower stays are "slack"...does this sound right to most of you?...it has presented a problem, but I'm guessing some of you would find it odd that the lower stays are so slack...insight?  

First...... if you read the Catalina/Capri owner's manual you will find tuning tips and procedures for your vessel. http://www.capriowners.com/resources.asp?page_id=manual&gid=2 Should you not find what you want in the Catalina manual, there are many good sources for tuning the mast. The article in www.cncphotoalbum.com comes to mind... but many sailmaker's sites will give advice on mast tuning, also.  

There are no side stays on a sailboat. These are shrouds. Some believe the lower shrouds should go slack on the leeward side. I like to keep the leeward shrouds tight enough to not go slack, but loose enough to easily flex when one pushes on them. As far as stays are concerned you only have two - a fore stay and a back stay. A cutter rig does have an inner stay for the staysail.  

Joe thanks for the information and the link for side stay adjustment, looks like an informative site and should be helpful in measurement of tension.  

...thanks Higgs for the lesson(sic), but keep in mind that commenting on the padantic features in a forum is not at all insightful and destracts interest from the topic. "It is possible but unlikely that the bond between the deck and hull is broken. If the boat has been hit severely check this area first. Also check in the area of the side stay fittings. If the bond is broken there, you will see a noticeable bulge as the deck pulls away from the hull when pressure is exerted on the stays (while sailing in heavy air)"...TORESSEN MARINE  

Torresen's response just proves "the customer is always right" even when clearly in the wrong. Higgs correction was that and only that. And BTW it is pedantic.  

tigerregis said: Torresen's response just proves "the customer is always right" even when clearly in the wrong. Higgs correction was that and only that. And BTW it is pedantic. Click to expand

Don't need a dictionary to recognise a thin skin.  

The Capri 26 is a bit of an odd duck rigging wise. It has the aft swept spreaders and 7/8 hounds like a fractional boat, but the forestay goes masthead. Still, the stick is designed to have pre-bend. Normally on pre-bend masts with swept spreaders, the lowers primary function is to limit how much pre-bend the mast has by holding it from bending too much forward. Clearly then the lowers cannot be too tight; they would simply pull the mast back into column (or try). It does not sound bad to me, but if you are thinking about it a lot, the tuning guide has Loos tension values.  

Stu Jackson

Torreson does engines, mostly. What's wrong with using proper definitions?  

higgs said: There are no side stays on a sailboat. These are shrouds. Some believe the lower shrouds should go slack on the leeward side. I like to keep the leeward shrouds tight enough to not go slack, but loose enough to easily flex when one pushes on them. As far as stays are concerned you only have two - a fore stay and a back stay. A cutter rig does have an inner stay for the staysail. Click to expand

Joe said: Sidestay is a perfectly acceptable term... Click to expand

My correction of side stays was not meant to be a disparagement. Obviously,the poster was not seasoned and I was hoping to give him some useful info. Many newbies do not appreciate the need for proper terminology. We use proper terminology to avoid confusion in dangerous situations which inevitably arise. It is good practice to use proper terminology in non emergency situations so that when the emergency arises, one automatically uses the correct terminology and thus is not misunderstood.  

Well put and well reasoned.  

higgs said: My correction of side stays was not meant to be a disparagement. Obviously,the poster was not seasoned and I was hoping to give him some useful info. Many newbies do not appreciate the need for proper terminology. We use proper terminology to avoid confusion in dangerous situations which inevitably arise. It is good practice to use proper terminology in non emergency situations so that when the emergency arises, one automatically uses the correct terminology and thus is not misunderstood. Click to expand

Joyce Brothers meets Martha Stewart for "a dash of that and a handful of this" without ruffling the feathers of the nannies.  

Gee Whiz - I was just trying to help. Have it your way. If I am your crew facing aft, and you yell at me that the right side stay has broken, I am going to be confused- what is a side stay? and move to my right which will be the skipper's left and the wrong side to deal with the problem. I know where stays are and I know where shrouds are. On the other hand, if you tell me the starboard upper shroud has broken I will instantly know what you are talking about. How do I know the poster is not seasoned? Simple. He would know there are no side stays on a sailboat.  

Higgs, good man that you are, do you remember when the bn(paid hand) finally let you join the club? Then, and only then, could you say "I pull strings or go to the pointy end etc?" If anyone is not "schooled", you cannot work as a team. Try to re-bed a winch and just look for a turning bolt with a guy below and can't hear each other. "Start forward and work from S'board around to port and then we'll set them in the same sequence." Everyone understands, every game has its jargon or cant as obscure as it may appear. It seems the "arcane" has entered the class of political correctness and if you use it, you are a snob wearing the blazer and red pants. Love Olcott by the way, have been going there for a lot longer than I wish to recall. Not the same now,unfortunatly.  

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Monster muskellunge a major victory at Leesville: NE Ohio fishing report

• Published: Sep. 20, 2024, 5:00 a.m.

With an impressive single-handed performance, angling veteran Mike Durkalec hooked and landed a Leesville Reservoir muskie that challenged the state record all by himself, as well as taking a selfie photograph of the results. Mike Durkalec, special to cleveland.com

• D'Arcy Egan | special to cleveland.com

CLEVELAND, Ohio — Mike Durkalec is best known for helping to provide superior fishing opportunities all around the Cleveland Metroparks, despite its urban setting. He’s also an avid angler, and constantly in search of trophy muskellunge, one of the biggest challenges in freshwater fishing.

On his day off last Sunday, Durkalec drove past West Branch Reservoir, his favorite Ohio muskie fishing hole after famed Lake St. Clair, where muskies grow extremely large.

“They were holding a muskie tournament at West Branch, so I kept going south and launched at Leesville Reservoir, a pretty muskie lake in Carroll County,” said Durkalec. He tied on his favorite muskie lure, a foot-long Medussa rubber bait with a triple tail, and began working likely habitat.

“The fish hit at mid-morning, and it was a heart-stopper,” he said. But lonesome fishermen also realized he would have to battle an extremely big, very angry muskie to the boat and net it himself, a herculean task. Adding to the tension, he could see the fishing hooks held the big fish with only one tine of the lures’s two treble hooks.

After a long fight the muskie finally ran out of gas. Durkalec adroitly slipped the net under her and carefully brought her aboard. To make sure he would never forget this fish — it stretched 50 inches, boasted a broad head and huge girth, and weighed an estimated 40 pounds, or more — Durkalec took a photo of them both using a camera attached with a suction cup to the windshield of his boat.

“Then I released her and, just trembling, poured a cup of coffee and sat there for 20 minutes, waiting for my pulse to settle.”

Ohio’s state muskie record is a 50-incher that weighed 55 pounds, caught by Joe D. Lykins from Piedmont Reservoir way back on April 12, 1972, 52 years ago.

Bumpy lake afternoons settling

The calm waters of Lake Erie have been whipped up by afternoon winds lately, but heading into the weekend it seems the offshore waters off Lorain and Cleveland, and most likely all of the way to Conneaut, will be primed for good walleye fishing.

Don Moore at Harbor Bait & Tackle in Fairport Harbor reports the best walleye fishing has been in 64-66 feet of water, and the big walleye are cruising close to the lake bottom. Most anglers are trolling spoons and stickbaits, but a few fishermen had done best slowing down and working tandem spinner rigs and nightcrawlers.

Surprisingly, steelhead trout have moved in along the lighthouse break wall in airport harbor and anglers are doing well casting spoons or suspending jig-maggot rigs close to shore. While the back side of the Fairport Hump just offshore of the Grand River is giving up nice yellow perch, the small pods of fish are difficult to stay on top of.

Lorain, Vermilion, Cleveland fishing good

Walleye are hanging around the 50-foot depths, while steelhead trout are cruising the near-shore waters and river mouths. The walleye are suspending about 40 feet down, and chasing diving plugs ranging from Dead Eyes to Bandits and Flicker Minnows.

Cooler nights help inland fishing

The largemouth bass fishing is starting to perk up around the Portage Lakes, especially Turkeyfoot and Mud lakes, and at Mosquito and Berlin reservoirs. Casting drop shot rigs along the edges of the drop-offs, as well as swim baits in bluegill or shad patterns, or frog lures around the weed beds would be productive.

Fall Brawl Sign-Up Parties

The popular Fall Brawl walleye derby is still a month away, but some tackle shops are celebrating with Fall Brawl Sign-Up Parties. Coming right up are:

Oct. 3, 4-7 p.m. — East End Angler, 4702 E. Lake Rd., Erie, Pa.;

Oct. 5, noon-4 p.m. — Central Basin Bait, 910 Main St., Huron:

RECOMMENDED • cleveland .com

How the Guardians keep getting it right; Can the Browns win with Deshaun Watson being just good? Terry’s Talk Sep. 17, 2024, 9:02 p.m.

Oct. 8, 5-8 p.m. — Jann’s Net Craft, 3350 Briarfield Blvd., Maumee; Oct. 11, 2-5 p.m. — Sandusky Bait Company, 101 Shelby St., Sandusky;

Oct. 12, noon-4 p.m. — Bay’s Edge Bait & Tackle, 5359 E. Bayshore Dr., Port Clinton.

The Fall Brawl will be held from Oct. 19-Dec. 8.

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