small sailboat repair

Better Sailing

How to Repair Sails On Your Sailboat

Even if you try to avoid any sail damage to your sailboat, there will be a time, unfortunately, when they get damaged at sea. So, what happens in the event of sail damage? Of course, the fact is that you’ll have to repair them while at sea and then quickly do a damage assessment. For that, you will probably need someone to lend you a hand and a flat surface to place the sail open. But before we get to the details on how to DIY repair a sail tear on your sailboat remember to be prepared for any unexpected scenario. In other words, having the right tools and supplies onboard gives you a huge advantage in dealing with the problem. Some of the basic tools include a waxed twine, a selection of sail needles, sharp scissors, spare webbing, and a sticky-back Dacron. Let’s move on and see the details!

Stitching your Sails

It is of great importance for a sailor to be able to stitch a sail by hand. If you know how to do this, it’s really practical in case of a chafe or of any other torn seams. The process is really simple. Firstly, make one pass to stitch on one set of diagonals as well as to the opposite direction and then fill in the other set. This can be applied in case you are following an existing zigzag stitch. Moreover, the sailor’s palm will facilitate you in order to force the needle through the fabric, and pliers will help you pull the needle through it. Remember to melt the ends of each knot with a lighter to prevent any loosening, as well as try to make tight stitches to ensure a strong repair. Buy a Sail Repair Kit From Amazon

Patch Repairs

For repairs that are not on a seam, a patch fix is necessary. You can use a Dacron patch for almost everything except spinnakers. Dacron can even stick to many laminate sails on the film side, but not on some resin-based and silicone-covered sails. In addition, dacron tapes come in different forms of thickness rolls and you can also buy larger sheets. Naturally, sails are not flat and they’re made up of panels that create depth. However, due to its design, when the surface you lay it on is flat it might pose you a problem. So do some temporary tucks and folds in the cloth, but away from the rip, and try to keep it flat. So, be patient and follow the below-mentioned procedure:

• The space you’re going to “work” is essential. Find a dry and safe place with a flat surface like below the saloon table or even on a chopping board.
• Always clean your fabric of salt with a freshwater rinse. Then allow a few moments for the fabric to dry. Continue by removing any residues with rubbing alcohol. This tip facilitates the drying process, as the alcohol evaporates.
• Most of the time, some sails (mostly white), tear in lines. For that reason, they shouldn’t be pulled too close together or overlap each other. Otherwise, their shape will change, and thus loading will be created. In case the tear has gone off in different directions repair the longest first.

>>Also Read: Best Sail Repair Tape

Seam Repairs

In order to make sure that no seams are starting to appear, try to check your sails daily. It’s not particularly hard for a seam to be unstitched, right in the middle of your voyage. So, if you see any loose stitching, put the sail down immediately, if possible, in order to get it fixed. Stitching a seam back together is a task that requires some time and attention. However, it’s much easier than dealing with ripped fabric. When you stitch seam you just work your way methodically back through all the holes. Try finding a comfy place on deck to work because it might be difficult to move a large sail down below. And remember that “a stitch in time saves nine”!

Patch and Glue

Sail damage can be also caused by a tear to the sun protection on roller-furling headsails. If that happens don’t put new holes in your sail in order to stitch up the tear. This will be really time consuming. Use instead some sticky-back which definitely is an efficient and fast solution. Although you have to take the sail down and put it back up to do that, sticky-back is the answer to this problem.

The first step is to cut the corners of the patch round in order to keep them from peeling off the sail. Then clean the whole area from the repair with acetone, and once the patch is ready, rub from the center to the edge with a scissor handle in order to make sure that it’s totally adhered. Furthermore, sticky-back patches work efficiently for small holes in the actual fabric of the sail. If any holes appear in the fabric then use patches on both sides of the sail, an inch or two larger than the rip in all directions. Keep in mind to slightly counterbalance the two patches so that the load won’t spread out around the repair. Also, take with you ripstop sticky-back to match the colors on any downwind sails, as well as small, pre-cut round patches, which can be practical for small holes in nylon sails.

A lot of spinnakers are no longer stitched and are put together just with tape, so if you need to make a repair it’s a particularly easy task. For most repairs a sticky back spinnaker repair tape is fine. Try not to change the panel’s shape and don’t use too much cloth for the patch. This way you’ll avoid generating unnecessary loads and stress lines. Instead, use the same amount of cloth for the patch so it moves and stretches simultaneously. Also, in case that a tear passes through the panels, repair one panel at a time and not all together. This way each panel is going to move and stretch as it was designed to.

One of the things that need occasional repairs on your sails is fabric. Fabric is one of the most vulnerable parts of your sails. Most of the time, when a sailboat uses its slab reefing it will subsequently wear out the webbing attachments to the tack rings. Therefore a failure of the webbing connection to the mainsail luff slides will be caused. As I’ve mentioned before, the most practical and easy solution to this is to be equipped with twine, a webbing, a needle, and a sailor’s palm . In case you don’t have the correct size of webbing, then Spectra cord can attach a slide fairly well.

These repairs are permanent and won’t take you more than an hour. Another sail damage for many sailboats with full-length battens might be caused by the connection point between the batten and the luff track on the mast. The best thing to do if that happens is to apply West System epoxy along with 3M adhesive sealant 5200 fast cure . This will untie your hands and is also an easy task to perform.

Common Damage Areas

• Spinnakers : Anything sharp can damage the spinnakers. Especially near the boom, so check that everything is taped up. Also, spinnakers tend to get caught between the shrouds and above the spreaders so consider closing off this gap with a bungee.
• Spreader and Rig Chafe : When you’re sailing downwind the mainsail spends a lot of time relaxing on the rig. Keep in mind to fill your spreaders with pipe insulation. Moreover, consider having extra reinforcement patches for the spreaders on the batten pockets and at each reef point.
• Spreader Ends : Always reinforce the sail and put smooth cages around protrusions. In addition, wrap foam around your spreader caps on long voyages.
• Bottom of the Headsail : Try to lower the halyard enough in order to reach the damaged section. Then reinforce with a sail repair tape . In case the conditions don’t favor you to do so, keep a wrap in the sail to take the pressure off the damage.

Summary – How to Repair the Sails

All this is much easier if your sails aren’t damaged in the first place. But, I know for a fact that sometimes you can’t prevent it from happening. In any case, always be alert to what is going on with the rags. Moreover, always carry a sail repair kit (link to Amazon) on board especially for long-distance cruising. Before leaving for any long trip have also a sailmaker service to check your sails for any weak points. Last but not least, in case that your sails are damaged at sea reinforce any loose stitching immediately and tape both sides of repairs to ensure extra strength.

Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.

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Sailboat Repair

Before outboard motors became ubiquitous, kids growing up near the water learned to row or sail skiffs at about the same age the training wheels came off their bikes. Whether your small boat is for fishing, transportation, competition or just enjoying a summer evening in good company, Saratoga Small Craft offers skillful small sailboat repairs and restoration.

Wooden boats

Why do we love wooden boats so much? Maybe it’s the pleasure of contemplating the boatbuilder’s skill in crafting each piece of wood and joining them artfully into a single, tight structure. Maybe it’s the extraordinary shine and smoothness wood is capable of achieving. Maybe it’s the spirit of the living wood that resides in each boat’s frame.

There are fewer of these lovely boats on the water these days, replaced by lighter, sturdier, less expensive and lower maintenance materials. We celebrate the romance of the wooden vessel and strive to contribute to the longevity and appeal of yours.

Normal use flexes, twists, stretches and strains a wooden boat’s carefully crafted joints, leading to a loss of tightness and stiffness over time. Swells lift the hull unevenly, forcing the sides apart a little at a time. Waves that come at an angle torque the hull forward and the stern aft. Every pound of cargo and passenger weight adds to the strain on the rigging as you sail. Hoisting it for winter storage and transporting it on a trailer can cause not only visible dings, but also increased moisture penetration and flexibility. A flexible boat absorbs power, making it harder to push through the water.

Saratoga Small Craft is skilled at restoring your wooden boat to its original rigidity and watertightness, as well as at adding finishes more beautiful than the original. We are certified small craft repairmen with West System Epoxy and experts at creating durable and brilliant finishes with Awlgrip, gelcoats, polyester and vinylester resins. We work with all nautical woods, including oak, cedar, cherry and mahogany.

From regular maintenance of caulked joints to accident and dry rot repair, contact us to bring back beauty and security to your sail.

Fiberglass and composite sailboat repair

Even if it is well above the waterline, broken frayed fiberglass is not just an aesthetic concern. Worrying about the sea-worthiness of your small sailboat or competitive sailing skiff takes some of the joy out of the wind. One of the advantages of fiberglass is its repairability. At Saratoga Small Craft, we don’t just graft lumpy Band-Aids to your dents, dings and gouges. We heal them from the inside with glass fabric, epoxy resin, skill and care. When we’re done, the new skin is as strong as ever and undetectable. Get rid of the rot in your transom, the weakness in your rigging and the butt scrapers in your rowing station. Call us for evaluation of your small craft.

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Your Ultimate Boating Resource

The Essential Boat Tool Kit: Tools Every Boater Needs

Whether you’re sailing on a small boat or cruising on a large yacht, having a well-stocked boat tool kit is essential to keeping your vessel running smoothly and ensuring the safety of everyone on board. In this article, we discuss the essential tools every boater needs in their boat tool kit.

Basic Hand Tools

These are the standard hand tools that you’ll need for most repairs and maintenance tasks on your boat:

1. Screwdrivers

A set of both flathead and Phillips head screwdrivers of various sizes is essential for performing basic repairs and adjustments. A set of small precision screwdrivers can also be useful for working with small components such as electronic devices.

2. Wrenches

Wrenches are vital for tightening and loosening nuts and bolts. An adjustable wrench (Crescent wrench) is a versatile choice to cover multiple sizes, but having a comprehensive set of combination wrenches can make removing stubborn nuts and bolts a lot easier.

A set of different types of pliers is necessary for various tasks such as gripping, cutting, and crimping. Needle-nose pliers are especially helpful for working with small components and reaching tight spaces. A pair of locking pliers (Vice-Grips) can come in handy for extra gripping power.

A basic hammer is essential for various tasks such as driving in and pulling out nails and tapping parts into place.

5. Socket set

A ratchet and socket set is an excellent investment for efficient and convenient removal and installation of nuts and bolts. Make sure to have both metric and standard sizes to cover all the potential hardware you will encounter.

6. Hex keys

Also known as Allen keys or Allen wrenches, hex keys are necessary for working with many boat components such as winches, gearboxes, and engine systems.

7. Measuring tape

A tape measure or measuring tape is essential for measuring distances, heights, and other dimensions during various tasks like rigging adjustments or installing equipment.

Specialized Boat Tools

The following tools are more specialized for specific boating needs but are crucial to have on board:

1. Marine sealant and caulk gun

A tube of marine sealant, along with a caulk gun, is essential for sealing leaks and cracks in your boat’s hull, as well as sealing areas around hardware installations.

2. Wire strippers and crimpers

For electrical work, wire strippers and crimpers are necessary for connecting and terminating wires properly. Ensure that you have the correct connector types specific to your boat’s wiring system.

3. Multimeter

An essential diagnostic tool for your boat’s electrical systems, a multimeter can measure voltage, current, and resistance to help identify issues and maintain your boat’s electrical components.

4. Spark plug wrench

This specialized wrench is necessary for removing and installing spark plugs on your boat’s engine.

Safety and Maintenance Gear

These items are essential for personal safety and maintaining your boat:

1. Personal protective equipment (PPE)

Safety glasses, work gloves, earplugs, and a dust mask should be part of your boat tool kit to provide protection during various tasks.

2. Fuses and spare bulbs

Having spare fuses and lightbulbs for your boat’s electrical system is crucial to keep your boat’s lights and appliances functional.

3. Lubricants and penetrating oils

WD-40, silicone spray, and penetrating oils can help free up stuck hardware and lubricate moving parts.

4. Spare parts

Having spare parts such as spare hoses, clamps, and belts can not only make repairs more efficient but also prevents unforeseen issues while sailing.

Organizing and Storing Your Boat Tool Kit

It’s crucial to keep your boat tool kit organized and stored in a secure and easily accessible location on your boat. A sturdy, waterproof toolbox or tool bag with separate compartments can help keep tools organized and protected from the elements. As an additional measure, you can use a desiccant to absorb moisture and prevent rusting on metallic tools.

A well-stocked tool kit with the essential tools listed above can ensure that your boat is well-maintained and make your boating experience more enjoyable and safe. Don’t forget to check your boat tool kit regularly and update it as necessary.

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How to restore a classic sailboat

Restoring a classic sailboat can be a fulfilling and rewarding process, allowing you to create a personalized vessel for exploring the open sea with your family.

How to Restore a Classic Sailboat

Restoring a classic sailboat is a labor of love that can bring immense satisfaction and pride to those who embark on this journey. It’s a chance to breathe new life into a vessel that has seen better days, and to create a unique and personalized space for you and your family to enjoy the open sea. In this article, we’ll guide you through the process of restoring a classic sailboat, from finding the right boat to the final touches that make it truly your own.

Table of Contents

Finding the right sailboat, assessing the condition, creating a restoration plan, hull and deck repairs, interior restoration, rigging and sails, electrical and plumbing systems, engine and propulsion, final touches.

The first step in restoring a classic sailboat is finding the right boat. This can be a challenging process, as there are many factors to consider, such as the size, age, and condition of the boat, as well as your budget and personal preferences.

When searching for a sailboat, consider the following:

• Size : Think about how much space you and your family will need, both for living and storage. A larger boat may offer more comfort and amenities, but it will also require more work and expense to restore and maintain.
• Age : Older boats may have more character and history, but they may also require more extensive restoration work. Be prepared to invest more time and money into an older boat.
• Condition : Assess the overall condition of the boat, including the hull, deck, rigging, sails, and interior. A boat in poor condition may be a good candidate for restoration, but it will also require more work and expense.
• Budget : Determine your budget for both the purchase of the boat and the restoration process. Keep in mind that restoration costs can quickly add up, so it’s important to have a realistic understanding of what you can afford.

Once you’ve found a sailboat that meets your criteria, it’s time to assess its condition in more detail. This will help you determine the extent of the restoration work required and whether the project is feasible for your budget and skill level.

Consider hiring a marine surveyor to conduct a thorough inspection of the boat. They can provide valuable insights into the condition of the hull, deck, rigging, sails, and other components, as well as identify any potential safety issues or structural problems.

Take note of any areas that require immediate attention, such as leaks, cracks, or signs of rot. These issues should be addressed before any cosmetic work is done, as they can compromise the integrity of the boat and lead to more serious problems down the line.

With a clear understanding of the boat’s condition, you can now create a restoration plan. This should outline the work that needs to be done, the order in which it should be completed, and an estimated timeline and budget for the project.

Start by prioritizing the most critical repairs, such as fixing leaks or addressing structural issues. Then, move on to less urgent tasks, such as cosmetic improvements and upgrades.

Be realistic about your abilities and the amount of time you can dedicate to the project. Restoring a sailboat can be a time-consuming and labor-intensive process, so it’s important to have a clear understanding of what you’re getting into before you begin.

The hull and deck are the foundation of your sailboat, and any issues with these components should be addressed as soon as possible. Common problems include cracks, blisters, and signs of rot or corrosion.

To repair cracks or holes in the hull or deck, you’ll need to clean the area thoroughly, remove any damaged material, and fill the void with an appropriate filler or epoxy. Once the repair has cured, sand the area smooth and apply a protective coating, such as paint or gelcoat.

For more extensive repairs, such as replacing large sections of the hull or deck, it may be necessary to consult with a professional boatyard or shipwright. They can provide guidance on the best materials and techniques for your specific boat and ensure that the repairs are done correctly.

Restoring the interior of your sailboat can be a rewarding process, as it allows you to create a comfortable and personalized space for you and your family. Start by assessing the condition of the interior, including the cabinetry, upholstery, and flooring.

If the cabinetry is in good condition, you may be able to simply refinish or paint the surfaces to give them a fresh look. If the cabinets are damaged or outdated, consider replacing them with new, custom-built units that meet your needs and preferences.

Upholstery can be cleaned or replaced, depending on its condition and your personal taste. New cushions, curtains, and other soft furnishings can make a big difference in the overall appearance and comfort of the interior.

Flooring options for sailboats include marine-grade carpet, vinyl, or teak. Choose a material that is durable, easy to clean, and complements the overall aesthetic of the boat.

The rigging and sails are essential components of your sailboat, and their condition will have a significant impact on the boat’s performance and safety. Inspect the rigging for signs of wear or damage, such as frayed lines, corroded fittings, or bent or cracked hardware. Replace any components that are in poor condition or no longer meet safety standards.

Sails should be inspected for tears, fraying, or signs of UV damage. Small repairs can often be made with sail tape or by sewing, but larger issues may require professional repair or replacement. Consider upgrading to modern sail materials and designs for improved performance and durability.

The electrical and plumbing systems on a classic sailboat may require updating or replacement to meet modern standards and ensure safety and reliability. Inspect the wiring, switches, and electrical components for signs of wear or damage, and replace any outdated or faulty parts.

Plumbing systems should be checked for leaks, corrosion, or other issues. Replace any damaged hoses, fittings, or fixtures, and consider upgrading to modern materials and designs for improved performance and ease of maintenance.

The engine and propulsion system are critical to the performance and safety of your sailboat. Inspect the engine for signs of wear or damage, and perform any necessary maintenance or repairs. This may include changing the oil and filters, replacing belts or hoses, or overhauling the entire engine.

The propeller and shaft should also be inspected for signs of wear or damage, and any issues should be addressed promptly. Consider upgrading to a modern, efficient propulsion system for improved performance and fuel efficiency.

With the major restoration work complete, it’s time to add the final touches that make your sailboat truly your own. This may include installing new electronics and navigation equipment, adding custom artwork or graphics, or outfitting the boat with personalized accessories and gear.

Take the time to celebrate your hard work and enjoy the fruits of your labor. Your restored classic sailboat is now ready for new adventures and memories with your family.

Restoring a classic sailboat is a challenging but rewarding endeavor that can provide you and your family with a unique and personalized vessel for exploring the open sea. By carefully assessing the condition of the boat, creating a detailed restoration plan, and tackling the project one step at a time, you can breathe new life into a once-neglected boat and create a lasting legacy for future generations.

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Fix It and Sail: Everything You Need to Know to Buy and Restore a Small Sailboat on a Shoestring Paperback – Illustrated, January 10, 2006

Purchase options and add-ons.

Find a small cruising sailboat and restore it to pristine condition on a budget that won't sink your budget

Small, trailererable cruising sailboats are more popular than ever as mooring spaces dwindle and marina dockage and winter storage costs soar. Fix It and Sail helps you discover boatloads of fun far less than a single ski weekend or golf club membership. Veteran sailor and journalist Brian Gilbert shows you how to select and inspect a boat, then restore it from keel to rigging.

Gilbert's clear, step-by-step instructions guide you through every phase of the restoration process from repairing keels, hulls, ports, and cabins to painting, wiring, and sealing. You'll learn how to evaluate, repair and replace hardware, upholstery, canvaswork, and more. Profusely illustrated appendices give you a vivid picture of the costs, tasks, and labor involved in an actual restoration project.

• Print length 216 pages
• Language English
• Publisher International Marine/Ragged Mountain Press
• Publication date January 10, 2006
• Dimensions 7.3 x 0.42 x 9.1 inches
• ISBN-10 0071458093
• ISBN-13 978-0071458092
• See all details

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Editorial Reviews

From the publisher.

Brian Gilbert is a lifelong sailor who lived aboard a Catalina 27 for four years. As a young father with a modest budget, he bought a Venture 22 for $500. The photos of his restoration of that boat are truly inspirational. His sailing articles have appeared in Good Old Boat, Small Craft Advisor , and DIY Marine magazines.

About the Author

Product details.

• Publisher ‏ : ‎ International Marine/Ragged Mountain Press; 1st edition (January 10, 2006)
• Language ‏ : ‎ English
• Paperback ‏ : ‎ 216 pages
• ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 0071458093
• ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-0071458092
• Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 15.2 ounces
• Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 7.3 x 0.42 x 9.1 inches
• #658 in Sailing (Books)
• #762 in Boating (Books)

About the author

Brian gilbert.

Brian Gilbert is the author of Fix It And Sail and The Complete Trailer Sailor, both published by International Marine. Fix It And Sail documents the story of a run-down MacGregor Venture 22 sailboat, from it's discovery in the woods to its complete restoration and relaunch.

Complete Trailer Sailor is a broader examination of the overall world of small trailerable sailboats, both used and new. It covers how to buy a boat, operate it safely, and maintain it well.

He was a liveaboard sailor for four years, and currently resides in Chattanooga Tennessee. His "day job" is audio engineer and location sound mixer for broadcast television and film. He's also been a contributor to magazines such as Good Old Boat, DIY Boatowner, and Small Craft Advisor, where he produces the artwork for the featured boat in each issue.

Customer reviews

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Customers say

Customers find the book very informative, instructive, and inspiring. They appreciate the clear, well-described, and illustrated systems. Readers say the book is easy to read with good pictures and demonstrates a clean and clear process of boat restoration. They say it's a good book for the DIYer considering trying their skills at restoring a boat.

AI-generated from the text of customer reviews

Customers find the book informative, instructive, and inspiring. They say it provides clear, usable information and is helpful for novice boaters. Readers also mention the book is an excellent primer to introduce a reader to boat repair and restoration.

"...Big sigh, ............ A wonderful dream to read about . This book will speak to your heart and inspire your dreams." Read more

"...It is an excellent primer to introduce a reader to boat repair and restoration, and I generally recommend it as reading to anyone who wants to start..." Read more

"...muddle through the restoration process, and that no particularly profound knowledge is conveyed ." Read more

"...to making repairs, this book does a good job of giving clear, usable information .Let's you buy that cheap boat with confidence." Read more

Customers find the book well-described and illustrated. They say it's easy to read and has good pictures. Readers also mention the author has the talent to explain things they don't quite know about yet. They appreciate the clean and clear process of boat restoration.

"...It had plenty of (B&W) photos, and demonstrates a clean and clear process of boat restoration on a budget...." Read more

"...to assessing needs, to making repairs, this book does a good job of giving clear , usable information...." Read more

"...The way the author presented the "systems" was very well described and illustrated ...." Read more

"Great book. Easy to read with good pictures . Written about a specific boat, but much of the information can be used for any similar type of boat...." Read more

Customers find the book to be a good value for money. They say it's an average but effective general guide to refurbishment.

"A very good book for the DIYer considering trying their skills at restoring a boat...." Read more

"... Money very well spent ." Read more

" Pretty average but effective general guide to refurbishment. Seems to start on most refurb areas but never seems to give any great detail...." Read more

" Well worth buying ...." Read more

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Sailboat Deck Repair Guide...

Sailboat deck repair guide.

A sailboat is only as good as two things: the people sailing it, and the materials keeping it afloat. And though you may be an expert navigator and sailor, sometimes, the latter can disappoint you. That’s when it’s time to dust off the work gloves and consider handling some light repairs yourself. But how can you do a sailboat deck repair your own—and is it worth the extra time and labor? Here are a few tips for handling your sailboat deck and keeping it in tip-top shape.

Know Your Sailboat Deck—And How to Repair It

It starts with a basic understanding of your sailboat deck. According to Sail Magazine , many “decks are cored with end-grain balsa or plywood with a fiberglass laminate on each side.” If this is the case for you, you might notice that moisture can work its way into the core of the deck, which tends to rot the quality of the wood over time.

When the plywood core of the deck goes bad, it will generally be better to replace this plywood rather than work around the issues. However, try to get a second opinion before you start tearing out old decking. For example, you might be able to use:

Liquid LifeSeal® Sealant 5.2 fl. oz. Clear

Stainless Steel Cleaner 16 fl. oz.

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**This is an update to a previous post, “How to Use “Git”-Rot””.  The presence of wood rot can ruin any […]

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OFF-SEASON AND WINTER SAIL CARE GUIDE

Off-season and winter sail care guide , palma-based, north sails service expert, ben fletcher shares his top tips on how to protect and care for your sails in the off-season..

As we come to the end of the sailing season and head into winter, the North Sails service team is gearing up for a busy season of sail care and repair. Whether helping clients prepare for the Caribbean sailing season, or packing their boats away for a winter hibernation, our network of global service lofts is your local resource to North Sails wealth of experience.

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Top 10 tips for maintenance & winter sail care, 1. avoid prolonged flogging of sails.

Flogging and leech flutter can prematurely degrade a sail's performance. Minimize motoring into the wind with flapping sails. After hoisting sails, trim promptly and steer a course so the sails fill rather than flog.

2. MINIMIZE LEECH FLUTTER.

Adjust your leech line to eliminate leech flutter (tension is just a touch more than necessary to stop the flutter). The tension required will change as the breeze increases and you adjust the jib sheet. Be careful not to over-tension the leech line; if the leech becomes hooked, ease it off. Proper placement of genoa cars will also prevent leech flogging on your genoa.

3. USE YOUR SAILS IN THEIR DESIGNED WIND RANGES

Contact your North sailmaker if you don't know the recommended wind ranges for your sails.

4. RELEASE TENSION ON YOUR SAILS

Ease the jib, main halyard, and outhaul when leaving the boat to prevent permanent luff and foot stretching. Releasing batten tension also reduces distortion at the batten ends.

5. LIMIT EXTENDED AND UNNECESSARY EXPOSURE TO THE SUN

UV rays are one of your sail's worst enemies. Roller furling genoas should have UV-resistant material covering the leech and foot. If you store your mainsail on the boom, ensure it is always covered when unused.

6. RINSE AND REPEAT

Rinse your sails with fresh water and dry thoroughly before storing them to prevent mildew and color bleeding in spinnakers. Rinse fittings in fresh water to help prevent corrosion. Store dry sails in a well-ventilated location. And remember, dry sails are of equal importance to clean sails. Moisture breeds mold issues. Your local North Sails loft can recommend the best seasonal and off-season storage solutions.

7. CREASING IS PREVENTABLE

Avoid folding sails on the same fold lines so that small creases don't become permanent.

8. SAIL BAGS NEED LOVE, TOO

Regularly rinse sail bag zippers or lubricate with silicone spray.

9. STAY ON AN ANNUAL MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

Have your sails inspected by the North Sails Certified Service experts at least once a season. Regular inspection will prevent minor problems from becoming big ones. You can also ask your local loft to create an onboard sail repair kit for your specific sails.

10. KEEP A SAIL LOG

Photographing your sails regularly and logging the hours used will help you and your sailmaker evaluate your sail inventory seasonally. Your sail photos can be digitized and analyzed using North's SailScan computer program.

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How To Repair Minor Fiberglass Damage on Your Boat

• By Lenny Rudow
• September 16, 2024

All boaters will bump pilings, kiss rubrails or make an errant screw hole here or there, and those are just a few of the ways minor fiberglass damage can occur onboard. Anytime there’s significant damage to a vessel’s fiberglass, you’ll want to call in a pro, but fixing the minor stuff is actually easy and straightforward. If the damage is limited to the gelcoat, and you know there are no structural issues to worry about, cosmetic repairs can be made in a matter of minutes. 

Fixing Chips, Dings and Holes in Fiberglass Gel Coat

Stage one in fixing this type of fiberglass damage is to clean out the divot. This includes removing any loose chips or fragments, sanding the surface with a fine-grit sandpaper, then wiping the surface down with Interlux 202 or acetone to remove all contaminants. If you’re filling in an old screw hole, be sure to sand the edges and roll up a small piece of the sandpaper so you can insert into the hole and sand the inside edges too. Do the same with a rag and the 202 or acetone to clean it out. Now, you’re ready to fill in that blemish.

Gelcoat paste will do the trick, and you can use a regular putty knife to create a smooth surface that fills all the gaps. But there’s a complicating factor: you’ll need to color-match the paste with your boat’s original gelcoat. There are literally hundreds of shades and tones of gelcoat, and you’ll have to custom mix your own batch. Start with a neutral white gelcoat paste, then add small amounts of pigment and mix it in. Most gelcoat repair kits will come with several coloring agents allowing you to mix up just about any combination, so if your boat is anything but plain white, it’s usually best to get a kit rather than buying a single pigment and trying to match the correct shade.

Here’s the kicker: when the gelcoat dries, the color often changes slightly. So, what looks like a perfect match upon mixing may turn out to be slightly off when it hardens up. To combat the issue, carefully mix several batches with slightly different paste/pigment ratios that create slightly different shades, allow them to dry, then compare them with your boat’s existing gelcoat. When you find a match you can live with (getting a perfect match is virtually impossible), remix it. Now, you’re ready to spackle it into the damaged area. Make sure to overfill it just a bit and don’t leave any air pockets. When you’re satisfied, cover the gelcoat paste with plastic wrap or a similar film (often included in kits) because gelcoat cures best when it’s not exposed to the air.

After it dries completely, lightly sand the area with extra-fine sandpaper until the overfilled area matches up with the pre-existing surface. Then wet-sand with a super-fine grit sandpaper until the surface is completely smooth. Finally, give the area a couple of coats of paste wax.

Fixing Cracks in Fiberglass

Fixing cracks is a bit tougher, because they don’t have enough surface area for the gelcoat paste to adhere; you can’t just smoosh it in there and hope for the best. First, you need to open up the cracks with a Dremel tool. Use a silicon carbide or tungsten carbide bit shaped like a cone, and be sure to grind deep enough to expose the uncracked fiberglass beneath. Keep in mind that adding lots of pressure to a Dremel won’t produce the best results. Instead, run it along the cracks multiple times with light pressure.

When the cracks have all been ground away, sand the exposed areas with fine-grit sandpaper to remove any burrs or jagged edges. Then wipe down all the areas with Interlux 202 or acetone to eliminate contaminants.

From here on out the repair process is the same as for chips and dings. However, if the cracks surround a high-stress area like the attachment point for a rail or a T-top support, there’s a good chance the cracks will reappear over time. It may be necessary to add backing plates or some other form of structural support to prevent a recurrence.

What about making repairs when the raw fiberglass cloth beneath the gel coat has been damaged? At that point, it should really be considered major as opposed to minor. So, if shards of matt or woven roving are showing call in the pros.

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Northwest River Supplies

The NRS Repair Department is here to help from our Moscow, Idaho headquarters. Read on for details on general repairs, pump repair options, latex dry wear gasket replacements, pressure testing, and more.

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GENERAL REPAIR

Does your NRS gear or apparel need a little TLC? Give us a call and we can let you know whether we can repair your stuff!

International Customers: If you are outside of the United States, please contact us before sending anything our way.

General repairs EXCLUDING shipping: $35.00 per hour

For repair needs or questions, please contact us .

GASKET REPLACEMENT & PRESSURE TESTING

If you would like NRS to repair your gaskets or test* for pinholes or potential leaks in your dry suit, please add the desired items below to you cart and checkout.

Agency Customers: If you are sending in multiple dry suits for an agency department, please use our Agency Dry Suit Intake Form .

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*Note: the leak evaluation service is only available for dry suits. Semi-dry suits featuring a neoprene neck closure (e.g.: Explorer, Navigator, Spyn, Nomad, Ascent SAR, Kokatat Supernova) or neoprene wrist closures (e.g.: Ascent SAR) are not compatible with this leak evaluation service.

U.S. customers: shipping is included in the purchase price of the repair. After your order is submitted, you will receive an email with a shipping label and instructions for shipping your dry wear to NRS.

International customers: shipping your dry wear to/from NRS in the United States will be your sole responsibility.

Squeaky-Clean Repair Policy

We are happy to repair your clean NRS gear, so be sure to rinse, dry and remove all dirt/sand/debris from the interior and exterior of your dry suits. (We’re lookin’ at you, sandy socks!) Any gear sent in for repair that has not been cleaned will result in a $30.00 cleaning fee.

For additional dry suit gasket needs or questions, please contact us.

DIY Gasket Repair

Gasket repair kits and an instruction video are available if you’re feeling adventurous.

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Looking for some tips on what you can do to fix your own pump? Read about how to maintain and repair NRS Barrel Pumps . Replacement pump parts are available for purchase.

For additional pump needs or questions, please contact us.

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We do not repair boats and SUPs, but are happy to refer you to some awesome folks who do! Visit the state- and region-specific list of NRS suggested boat repair facilities . You can also contact us for additional information.

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Dyna-Ski Boats custom builds outboard powered water ski boats for recreational skiers and show ski clubs. We have customers all over the world including Malaysia, the Caribbean, Moscow, Russia, the Cayman Islands and Canada. This blog is used to keep readers informed about what is going on at Dyna-Ski and answers questions that are frequently asked. You can also visit www.dyna-ski.com for more information about our boats. Contact Dyna-Ski at [email protected] or call 715-854-7501.

Thursday, January 9, 2014

The true cost of restoring an old 18' hydrodyne or 20' hydrodyne.

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• Boat Maintenance

Step-by-Step Deck Core Repair

Last month we looked at the effectiveness of injecting resin to repair damaged core sections (see “ Can Glue Injection Fix Rotten Core ,” PS July 2018. This month we’ll review the more robust repair option—replacing the bad core.

The factory skimped on resin when laying up the internal skin of the anchor locker hatch on our Corsair F-24 test boat. The goal was to save weight, but the result was hundreds of pinholes, which over the course of thousands of warming and cooling cycles, sucked in a substantial volume of humid anchor locker air. The core became damp, bacteria moved in, and the balsa decayed to the consistency of garden mulch. Small wonder the hatch bent noticeably under foot.

Fortunately, the skins had not yet cracked. The other positive was that the hatch could be taken home for renovation, and that makes any job easier.

When repairing deck core, work can proceed from either the interior side or exterior side. Working from the exterior means your repair will need to match surrounding skin, whereas interior work is usually hidden from view.

For deck repairs, working from the outside means that gravity is on your side. The old core doesn’t land on your face as you remove it, and bonding in new core material is straightforward.

Working from the inside requires removing interior liners and modifying your laminating technique. Larger jobs tend to favor working from above, while small jobs go faster from inside. It all depends on geometry. In our case, we just flipped the cover over.

We cut away the skin using delicate, shallow cuts with an angle grinder. A vibrating multi-tool with a carbide blade is handy for small areas. The skin was then peeled back using a dry wall knife and a pair of pliers.

If it is undamaged and you are working from the top side, save this for later reinstallation. It will preserve the non-skid pattern and smooth curvature in the corners. Even when you are careful, thin skins are often destroyed during removal process, which means you’ll have to laminate a new one—something to consider when deciding which side to work from.

Whichever method you choose, be sure to wear gloves while laminating. Change the gloves every 10 minutes or whenever they begin to get sticky; if glass fibers are sticking to your fingers, you need new gloves. Likewise, have a stack of disposable brushes and polyethylene spreaders available.

Cleaning Out Old Core

Some of the old core will fall out, bringing comfort that you are doing the right thing. Some will come out with a scraper. We’ve found a wire cup brush, in either a cordless drill or angle grinder, makes fast work, with less risk of cutting into the second skin than with vigorous use of a scraper or chisel.

You don’t need to remove undamaged core; when it gets really difficult to remove, you’re probably done. We left some core, after determining that it was like new and that we couldn’t remove it without damaging the skin. Allow the panel to dry.

1. A cutting wheel was used to trim the outer laminate to access the core.

Bonding New Core

You can use either polyester or epoxy resin (see Inside PS blog post “ Epoxy Versus Polyester Resin ”). If you’ve worked with neither before, practice on some sample laminates.

Some sections could be solid glass instead of core. Lay those areas up with cloth or possibly Coosa Bluewater 26 (see “ The Multipurpose Core ,” PS February 2020). For cored areas, coat the sections of replacement core with resin thickened with colloidal silica to a peanut butter consistency. Press into place with a grooved laminating roller.

Use lightweight cores for overhead panels. Plywood is not recommended. Marine core is typically scored with kerfs and attached to a scrim backing so that it can follow curves. If the curve is concave, the kerfs will open the blind side, so be certain to apply enough thickened resin to fill these kerfs as they open.

There is no reason to apply core in large sections, since it is scored anyway. Small sections, generally not much bigger than 6 inches square, are easier to manipulate. Cut smaller pieces to fill the larger gaps, and then spread thickened resin over the entire area using a flexible spatula, forcing it into the remaining hair line cracks. Allow to cure.

Use 60-80 grit on an orbital sander (or a disk grinder with a very light touch) to sand the new core smooth. Even if you matched the original core thickness, there will be irregularities resulting from bumps of old resin and angles from the core.

Laminate a replacement skin, matching the original schedule. Several layers of 17-ounce biaxial cloth with ¾-ounce mat attached (1708), followed by a single layer of 6-ounce finish cloth is common on cruising boats. Smaller boats may use only a few layers of 6-ounce finish cloth. Bevel the core edges to a 10:1 taper.

From the Inside

If you are working from the inside on an overhead panel, lay the cloth on a plastic disposable work surface and pre-saturate the fiberglass cloth, using a squeegee and roller, before placing on the ceiling. Some like to do this on a bench outside the boat and carry the sections in on waxed paper.

Don’t attempt to saturate the cloth directly on the surface; the resin will drip all over you and the glass will keep falling off.

Rub the pre-wetted laminate down firmly with gloved hands and a roller until it begins to cure. If applying more than a few layers overhead, allow the initial layers to gel. This prevents the whole mess from falling off in a sticky pile. Allow to cure.

Use vinegar to wipe surrounding areas that were not covered with drop cloths, being careful not to get any on the bond areas.

From the Outside

If you are reusing the old deck skin, carefully grind the core to fit the original skin, test fitting frequently. You will add thickened resin to bond and fill low areas, but there can’t be any high spots and it is best if the fit is very close.

Unlike a new skin, you won’t be able to roll it in for a perfect bond. This is why we dislike this method other than for very small sections. Press the skin in place, weight it down it with sand bags, and hope for the best.

Finishing and Cleanup

If you are working from the inside, all that remains is to grind it reasonably smooth and replace the liner or paint to match. If you worked from the outside, bevel the joints 10:1 with a hand grinder, add fiberglass tape to match the original thickness, and finish with gel coat or paint.

Clean your tools with vinegar. As long as the cure is not too far alone, vinegar stops the chemical reaction and eliminates the stickiness, allowing clean-up with soap, water, and a brush.

PS Technical Editor Drew Frye is the author of “ Circumnavigating the Delmarva—a Guide for the Shoal Draft Sailor ,” available for Kindle through Amazon.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Injectadeck has very specific instructions, it looks like they used it like Git’Rot’ against wet wood? That was not a proper demonstration of the process of injectadeck. I have been using it for three years on several boats. The aforementioned product doesn’t work at all nothing can soak into wet wood or stick to its slime. Injectadeck adheres fiberglass layers together very well, displaces water, hardens in a void.

(Inject-a-Deck was reviewed in “Can Glue Injection Fix a Rotten Core,” July 2020)

Inject-a-Deck can work. There is no question it can firm up a mushy deck and that it is much easier to use than other methods. But we tested it a number of times, in several ways (wet and dry) and concluded that other products were stronger and better suited limited repairs and areas where great strength was required. In fact, we warmed up to the idea that injecting epoxy and Git-Rot is probably not the best method for larger areas of extensive damamge or rot, that the repair materials does not need to be strong like epoxy, only as strong as the original core, and that foaming products, including the original Gorilla Glue, have considerable advantages.

The best repair method is core replacement, but even that method must be approached circumspectly. We recently reviewed a “professional” repair to a PS test boat and found that the contractor had made critical errors, resulting in a repair that was far weaker than what he started with. He hid his tracks well enough that any surveyor could miss the hidden damamge. The result was a sudden failure of the core repair underway. * He reused the original skins by gluing and fairing the edges together, without scarfing in reinforcing lamination. Invisible joints that were very weak. * Cut through critical carbon fiber reinforcements buried within the laminate and did not replaced them. You never know what is inside the deck, and it apparently did not concern him when he got black sawdust, or when he pealed the deck up and saw the carbon plate.

So injecting foam, such as Inject-a-Deck can fall within the “do no harm” philosophy. You won’t hurt anything. It would have been much better, in this case, if the contractor had just injected foam, rather than cut through good laminate he was not committed to properly replacing. Sometimes you don’t know what you are getting into.

Bacteria do not cause core decay. The statement: “The core became damp, bacteria moved in, and the balsa decayed to the consistency of garden mulch.” is misleading because 1) the damage is caused by fungi, not bacteria, and 2) the fungal spores have inhabited the balsa ever since it was changed from being a tree to being small blocks. The spores are patiently waiting for the substrate to become damp to the degree that they can become active.

Good point on the fungi, although that is only true to a point. Rot results from a mixed community of bacteria and fungi, the fungi being more active in the presence of oxygen and during the initiation of rot, and the bacteria becoming more prevalent and active in anaerobic conditions (prevalent in cores) and as the core gradually becomes mulch. But yes, most of the damage is caused by fungi. I took too much literary license, and I knew better. In the end… wood rots. The distinction is mostly relevant when choosing a rot-preventative.

A good read. I’ve done everything from below with Vinylester resin. Of course, you need an excellent full facemask with the right cartridges. Good to know about the “professional” repair mentioned in the above comment. I’ve been “peg boarding” from the inside to dry out the core which did dry quite well with heat lamps (and a temperature gun to not get over 110 degrees). However, if the fiberglass flexed when pushing the drill to drill the hole, I just peeled that area and replaced the core. This winter I will work on the doghouse and this method of looking for some flex won’t work since the interior doghouse glass is thicker. Not sure what I will do.

The softening temperature of vinyl cores is about 190F and epoxy, gelcoat, and vinylester are are a bit higher than that. I would think 150F would be a safe temperature for drying core. I’m sure decks pass 110F in the sun all the time!

Drew I agree, and it’s good to know what you just wrote. And to your point on a hot sunny day in late August here in RI, in the afternoon, the deck was 116F on my temp. gun. The boat I’m working on came from Lake Lanier, Georgia, I’m sure it hit 110 air temp…

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