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The Standing Rigging On A Sailboat Explained

The standing rigging on a sailboat is a system of stainless steel wires that holds the mast upright and supports the spars.

In this guide, I’ll explain the basics of a sailboat’s hardware and rigging, how it works, and why it is a fundamental and vital part of the vessel. We’ll look at the different parts of the rig, where they are located, and their function.

We will also peek at a couple of different types of rigs and their variations to determine their differences. In the end, I will explain some additional terms and answer some practical questions I often get asked.

But first off, it is essential to understand what standing rigging is and its purpose on a sailboat.

The purpose of the standing rigging

Like I said in the beginning, the standing rigging on a sailboat is a system of stainless steel wires that holds the mast upright and supports the spars. When sailing, the rig helps transfer wind forces from the sails to the boat’s structure. This is critical for maintaining the stability and performance of the vessel.

The rig can also consist of other materials, such as synthetic lines or steel rods, yet its purpose is the same. But more on that later.

Since the rig supports the mast, you’ll need to ensure that it is always in appropriate condition before taking your boat out to sea. Let me give you an example from a recent experience.

Dismasting horrors

I had a company inspect the entire rig on my sailboat while preparing for an Atlantic crossing. The rigger didn’t find any issues, but I decided to replace the rig anyway because of its unknown age. I wanted to do the job myself so I could learn how it is done correctly.

Not long after, we left Gibraltar and sailed through rough weather for eight days before arriving in Las Palmas. We were safe and sound and didn’t experience any issues. Unfortunately, several other boats arriving before us had suffered rig failures. They lost their masts and sails—a sorrowful sight but also a reminder of how vital the rigging is on a sailboat.

The most common types of rigging on a sailboat

The most commonly used rig type on modern sailing boats is the fore-and-aft Bermuda Sloop rig with one mast and just one headsail. Closely follows the Cutter rig and the Ketch rig. They all have a relatively simple rigging layout. Still, there are several variations and differences in how they are set up.

A sloop has a single mast, and the Ketch has one main mast and an additional shorter mizzen mast further aft. A Cutter rig is similar to the Bermuda Sloop with an additional cutter forestay, allowing it to fly two overlapping headsails.

You can learn more about the differences and the different types of sails they use in this guide. For now, we’ll focus on the Bermuda rig.

The difference between standing rigging and running rigging

Sometimes things can get confusing as some of our nautical terms are used for multiple items depending on the context. Let me clarify just briefly:

The  rig  or  rigging  on a sailboat is a common term for two parts:

• The  standing rigging  consists of wires supporting the mast on a sailboat and reinforcing the spars from the force of the sails when sailing.
• The  running rigging  consists of the halyards, sheets, and lines we use to hoist, lower, operate, and control the sails on a sailboat.

Check out my guide on running rigging here !

The difference between a fractional and a masthead rig

A Bermuda rig is split into two groups. The  Masthead  rig and the  Fractional  rig.

The  Masthead  rig has a forestay running from the bow to the top of the mast, and the spreaders point 90 degrees to the sides. A boat with a masthead rig typically carries a bigger overlapping headsail ( Genoa)  and a smaller mainsail. Very typical on the Sloop, Ketch, and Cutter rigs.

A  Fractional  rig has forestays running from the bow to 1/4 – 1/8 from the top of the mast, and the spreaders are swept backward. A boat with a fractional rig also has the mast farther forward than a masthead rig, a bigger mainsail, and a smaller headsail, usually a Jib. Very typical on more performance-oriented sailboats.

There are exceptions in regards to the type of headsail, though. Many performance cruisers use a Genoa instead of a Jib , making the difference smaller.

Some people also fit an inner forestay, or a babystay, to allow flying a smaller staysail.

Explaining the parts and hardware of the standing rigging

The rigging on a sailing vessel relies on stays and shrouds in addition to many hardware parts to secure the mast properly. And we also have nautical terms for each of them. Since a system relies on every aspect of it to be in equally good condition, we want to familiarize ourselves with each part and understand its function.

Forestay and Backstay

The  forestay  is a wire that runs from the bow to the top of the mast. Some boats, like the Cutter rig, can have several additional inner forestays in different configurations.

The  backstay  is the wire that runs from the back of the boat to the top of the mast. Backstays have a tensioner, often hydraulic, to increase the tension when sailing upwind. Some rigs, like the Cutter, have running backstays and sometimes checkstays or runners, to support the rig.

The primary purpose of the forestay and backstay is to prevent the mast from moving fore and aft. The tensioner on the backstay also allows us to trim and tune the rig to get a better shape of the sails.

The shrouds are the wires or lines used on modern sailboats and yachts to support the mast from sideways motion.

There are usually four shrouds on each side of the vessel. They are connected to the side of the mast and run down to turnbuckles attached through toggles to the chainplates bolted on the deck.

• Cap shrouds run from the top of the mast to the deck, passing through the tips of the upper spreaders.
• Intermediate shrouds  run from the lower part of the mast to the deck, passing through the lower set of spreaders.
• Lower shrouds  are connected to the mast under the first spreader and run down to the deck – one fore and one aft on each side of the boat.

This configuration is called continuous rigging. We won’t go into the discontinuous rigging used on bigger boats in this guide, but if you are interested, you can read more about it here .

Shroud materials

Shrouds are usually made of 1 x 19 stainless steel wire. These wires are strong and relatively easy to install but are prone to stretch and corrosion to a certain degree. Another option is using stainless steel rods.

Rod rigging

Rod rigging has a stretch coefficient lower than wire but is more expensive and can be intricate to install. Alternatively, synthetic rigging is becoming more popular as it weighs less than wire and rods.

Synthetic rigging

Fibers like Dyneema and other aramids are lightweight and provide ultra-high tensile strength. However, they are expensive and much more vulnerable to chafing and UV damage than other options. In my opinion, they are best suited for racing and regatta-oriented sailboats.

Wire rigging

I recommend sticking to the classic 316-graded stainless steel wire rigging for cruising sailboats. It is also the most reasonable of the options. If you find yourself in trouble far from home, you are more likely to find replacement wire than another complex rigging type.

Relevant terms on sailboat rigging and hardware

The spreaders are the fins or wings that space the shrouds away from the mast. Most sailboats have at least one set, but some also have two or three. Once a vessel has more than three pairs of spreaders, we are probably talking about a big sailing yacht.

A turnbuckle is the fitting that connects the shrouds to the toggle and chainplate on the deck. These are adjustable, allowing you to tension the rig.

A chainplate is a metal plate bolted to a strong point on the deck or side of the hull. It is usually reinforced with a backing plate underneath to withstand the tension from the shrouds.

The term mast head should be distinct from the term masthead rigging. Out of context, the mast head is the top of the mast.

A toggle is a hardware fitting to connect the turnbuckles on the shrouds and the chainplate.

How tight should the standing rigging be?

It is essential to periodically check the tension of the standing rigging and make adjustments to ensure it is appropriately set. If the rig is too loose, it allows the mast to sway excessively, making the boat perform poorly.

You also risk applying a snatch load during a tack or a gybe which can damage the rig. On the other hand, if the standing rigging is too tight, it can strain the rig and the hull and lead to structural failure.

The standing rigging should be tightened enough to prevent the mast from bending sideways under any point of sail. If you can move the mast by pulling the cap shrouds by hand, the rigging is too loose and should be tensioned. Once the cap shrouds are tightened, follow up with the intermediates and finish with the lower shrouds. It is critical to tension the rig evenly on both sides.

The next you want to do is to take the boat out for a trip. Ensure that the mast isn’t bending over to the leeward side when you are sailing. A little movement in the leeward shrouds is normal, but they shouldn’t swing around. If the mast bends to the leeward side under load, the windward shrouds need to be tightened. Check the shrouds while sailing on both starboard and port tack.

Once the mast is in a column at any point of sail, your rigging should be tight and ready for action.

If you feel uncomfortable adjusting your rig, get a professional rigger to inspect and reset it.

How often should the standing rigging be replaced on a sailboat?

I asked the rigger who produced my new rig for Ellidah about how long I could expect my new rig to last, and he replied with the following:

The standing rigging should be replaced after 10 – 15 years, depending on how hard and often the boat has sailed. If it is well maintained and the vessel has sailed conservatively, it will probably last more than 20 years. However, corrosion or cracked strands indicate that the rig or parts are due for replacement regardless of age.

If you plan on doing extended offshore sailing and don’t know the age of your rig, I recommend replacing it even if it looks fine. This can be done without removing the mast from the boat while it is still in the water.

How much does it cost to replace the standing rigging?

The cost of replacing the standing rigging will vary greatly depending on the size of your boat and the location you get the job done. For my 41 feet sloop, I did most of the installation myself and paid approximately $4700 for the entire rig replacement.

Can Dyneema be used for standing rigging?

Dyneema is a durable synthetic fiber that can be used for standing rigging. Its low weight, and high tensile strength makes it especially popular amongst racers. Many cruisers also carry Dyneema onboard as spare parts for failing rigging.

How long does dyneema standing rigging last?

Dyneema rigging can outlast wire rigging if it doesn’t chafe on anything sharp. There are reports of Dyneema rigging lasting as long as 15 years, but manufacturers like Colligo claim their PVC shrink-wrapped lines should last 8 to 10 years. You can read more here .

Final words

Congratulations! By now, you should have a much better understanding of standing rigging on a sailboat. We’ve covered its purpose and its importance for performance and safety. While many types of rigs and variations exist, the hardware and concepts are often similar. Now it’s time to put your newfound knowledge into practice and set sail!

Or, if you’re not ready just yet, I recommend heading over to my following guide to learn more about running rigging on a sailboat.

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Skipper, Electrician and ROV Pilot

Robin is the founder and owner of Sailing Ellidah and has been living on his sailboat since 2019. He is currently on a journey to sail around the world and is passionate about writing his story and helpful content to inspire others who share his interest in sailing.

Very well written. Common sense layout with just enough photos and sketches. I enjoyed reading this article.

Thank you for the kind words.

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Replacing Your Standing Rigging

Published by rigworks on november 27, 2018.

Question – When should I replace my standing rigging?

From the Rigger – According to industry standards, the anticipated lifespan for stainless steel rigging is 10-12 years for wire and 15-20 years for rod. Of course, a number of factors affect a rig’s lifespan including load, sailing conditions, mileage sailed, age, fatigue from cyclic loading, environmental influences such as salinity and contamination, and frequency of care and maintenance. Many people believe that only heavily used rigging needs to be replaced, but the continuous flexing of loose wire that is not under load can take a serious toll as well. The flogging of a loose shroud can actually be harder on wire than steady pressure.

Unfortunately, there are not always visual clues that your rigging has passed its life expectancy. Things to look for include corrosion, pitting, cracks, and broken strands or “meat hooks” on the wire. Rust and discoloration can indicate the location of a crack or crystallization of the metal. Check your spreaders, chainplates and turnbuckles for cracking, fatigue, missing cotter pins/rings, etc. Check the deck around the chainplates and mast for cracking and delamination. If in doubt, get a professional opinion.

The cost to replace standing rigging obviously varies from boat to boat. Give us a call, and we can give you a rough quote. With proper measurements (wire diameter, pin sizes, wire lengths), we can give you a very accurate price for the standing rigging itself, but there are often unforeseen complications during the job (bad spreaders, corroded mast bases, hardware that is stripped on the mast, frozen pins, chainplates that are failing, etc.). A rig inspection beforehand can minimize surprises.  And word of warning… jobs often get expensive because the customer decides, once the mast is down, to add furlers, masthead units, new sheets and halyards, etc. These additions add up quickly and affect the cost of parts, labor, special order shipping, taxes, etc. We are happy to accommodate your requests, but the cost of your job will escalate quickly.

Although we work closely with the boatyard during the job, you will need to negotiate yard fees (crane, mast lay days, etc.) directly with the yard of your choice. They are not included in our estimate. Driscoll Boat Works and Shelter Island Boat Yard are both within walking distance of Rigworks. Assuming it fits in our racks and we have room, we may be able to avoid mast lay day charges by storing your mast here at Rigworks.

As a quick side note… people often ask if they should switch from rod to wire rigging or vice versa during the re-rig (usually from rod to wire as rod is much more expensive per foot). Be aware that this is not a simple conversion and can be quite expensive. The terminations for wire vs. rod can be quite different and require a lot of customization.

Want to prolong the lifespan of your rigging? Here are a few suggestions…

Maintain your standing rigging! Like your car, your sailboat needs TLC. Perform routine cleaning/polishing to remove corrosives, identify chafe points and other damage, and properly tune your standing rigging (shrouds, forestay, backstay). Stainless does not like to be deprived of oxygen, so keep tape off your rigging to avoid anaerobic corrosion. For more information on rig maintenance, visit our prior ‘Ask the Rigger’ article at https://rigworks.com/maintaining-your-standing-rigging/ and download our rig-care pamphlet at https://rigworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Standing-Rigging-Care.pdf .

Get regular rig inspections! This is a very inexpensive investment (by yachting standards ) to ensure that your rig is in sound condition. Why not schedule annual service as you would with a car? Let us go over your rig from top to bottom and end to end to identify trouble before it gets worse. For more information on rig inspections, visit our prior ‘Ask the Rigger’ article at https://rigworks.com/the-scoop-on-rig-inspections/ . Our riggers can also tune your rig, either at the dock or under sail. Not only will your rig last longer when properly tuned, your boat will sail better, and who doesn’t love that!

Consider pulling your rig every 5-6 years to inspect the mast base, chainplates, turnbuckles, wire, etc. This is considerably less expensive than a full re-rig and, again, may identify issues before they become catastrophic.

And PLEASE do not buy a used boat without a professional rig inspection! We have had many customers who have found a ‘great deal’ on a used boat only to discover that they need to spend a small fortune on new rigging. A boat with bad rigging is at best a pain in the #@$ and at worst a lethal weapon. There is nothing more expensive than a “cheap” boat!

A customer came into our shop the other day to discuss his 33-year old rigging. He said it looked fine. He asked “Isn’t the industry standard just a ploy by manufacturers to sell more wire”. Since we also stand to gain when you replace your rigging, let us say that many insurance companies will not insure sailboats with aged rigging. This should be a warning. If they are not willing to take the financial risk, are you willing to risk yourself and your crew?

Finally, should you decide to sail with that old rigging, consider checking out the ‘Ask the Rigger’ article titled “Rigs Fail… Are You Ready?” at https://rigworks.com/rigs-fail-ready/ .

Safe Sailing!

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Yachting World

• Digital Edition

Pip Hare explains when to check and replace your standing rigging

• October 1, 2020

To prepare my IMOCA 60 Medallia for the Vendée Globe race, I have completed a full change of all the standing rigging

If the mast is stepped, the only way to thoroughly inspect rig fittings at the masthead is to go up there... Photo: James Mitchell

This was a ‘no brainer’ decision as my rigging has been around the world once already and I would never take it into the Southern Ocean for a second time.

In some ways it is easier to estimate the life of synthetic rigging, as it comes with a recommended mileage or stated lifespan if it can be UV damaged. For those with stainless steel rigging the decision on when to replace can be a harder one.

The main difficulties boat owners face when assessing the condition of the rig is the inability to see the first signs of wear, partly due to the majority of our rigging being out of sight in the sky, and partly due to the nature of metal fatigue itself.

Professional rig checks often lead to last-minute repairs for transatlantic ARC sailors. Photo: James Mitchell

The fact is that metal fatigue is inevitable and cannot be avoided. The only thing that will vary is the time a component takes to fail. So how can we make a good assessment of when rigging should be replaced?

There are a number of factors that will affect the lifespan of your standing rigging, most notably the initial quality of the rigging used and the type and frequency of sailing that you do.

Rigging quality

The quality of both wire and rod rigging is important because in both the crack initiation and growth phases of the fatigue process can be accelerated by metal impurities or unseen manufacturing defects in the component itself. Using high quality wire rigging from a well known supplier is a bigger initial outlay but the grade of metal used and manufacturing process should prolong the life of your rigging.

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When buying a secondhand boat, find out when the rigging was last replaced and try to get a copy of the invoice detailing who the supplier was – if you’re not sure, ask a rigger to take a look at it.

How you sail

In crude terms, every time your boat is used it is advancing the process of metal fatigue through the application of cyclical loads, so a boat that is raced regularly and hard will be approaching the point at which rigging failure could occur faster than a boat which is cruised intermittently.

This doesn’t mean that lightly used boats will never have to consider changing their rigging; even a dormant boat will be experiencing load cycles in some form when the mast is up. Just the action of the wind on a mast is enough to load up the rigging and any stays left loose will move with wind and wave action.

It’s not unusual for rigging wires to fracture around the swage collar

To minimise the stress caused by these load cycles while sailing it’s important to tune your rig regularly so the rigging is always at optimum tension. This will help ensure that changes in load are less extreme.

If you are not confident to set up your own rig tensions then ask your rigger to help, and later be sure to check your rig throughout the season.

Regular rigging checks

There are a couple of ways to test for early signs of fatigue not picked up by the naked eye; they include dye and NDT (non-destructive testing).

Water can enter swage terminals leading to crevis corrosion. Photo: Rupert Holmes

Both these surveys need to be carried out with the rig down and it may be worth balancing the overall cost of carrying out the test against the additional cost of re-rigging the boat, especially bearing in mind that if any faults or impurities are discovered your insurance may then require you to change the rigging anyway.

Regular visual checks should pick up the first signs of crack growth. Look for rust on T-terminals and at swage ends, check for powdery corrosion where T-terminals insert into the mast and any signs of cracking in the same area.

Run your fingers up and down the last metre of wire above or below the swage, feeling for deformities; if the wire is not uniform the chances are that one of the individual wires has broken, even if you can’t see it, and the stay and its partner should be replaced immediately.

Visual checks for rust and powdery corrosion are your first line of defence. Photo: Rupert Holmes

Checking the head of T-terminals is a harder job as they are inside the mast itself. This will need to be done with the mast removed so a full ‘mast down’ survey carried out by a professional rigger should be scheduled at least every three years.

Picking up early signs of corrosion or replacing select components after a thorough inspection is a worthwhile exercise because it may extend the lifespan of your standing rigging.

Inevitably your insurance policy will play a big part in your decision making about whether to replace your rigging. There has been a general assumption within the sailing community that insurance companies require rigging to be replaced after ten years, but I’ve found this is not actually the case; it’s far less prescriptive than that.

A small crack has developed in this stemhead fitting just above the forestay clevis pin

The IPID (Insurance Product Information Document) with your policy should give you a clear indication of what is covered in the event of a dismasting and may also provide some food for thought on when you should replace.

Insurance companies do not stipulate a timeframe at which your standing rigging should be replaced, but they do stipulate that all parts of the boat should be regularly and appropriately checked and maintained.

In the event of a dismasting claim, the insurance company would expect to see evidence of rigging maintenance and checks carried out at appropriate intervals by a qualified person; DIY inspections will not be accepted.

It is also worth taking note that in most insurance policies a depreciation element will be applied. This normally constitutes a deduction of one third of the new value of a rig and would start to come into play when a rig approaches 10-12 years old.

Emotional cost

There’s a consequential impact of a dismasting which cannot be covered by an insurance claim, and that is the human and emotional cost. In my own sailing career I’ve had two failures of standing rigging components which I spotted while sailing and was able to jury rig for a safe return to port. I’ve also experienced a dismasting, and I can vouch that it’s not a pleasant experience.

As a regular racer I take the health of my rig very seriously, perform checks before every major race and take my rig down annually for a thorough inspection. But this is the schedule that is right for me and the miles I sail, and would be considered overkill for the average sailor. Only you can give a proper evaluation of how often and how hard your boat is used, but that makes you ultimately responsible for setting the maintenance and replacement schedule.

Metal fatigue

Wires can break, unseen, within swaged terminals

Crack initiation starts when the metal first gets put to work and is caused by the cyclical loading of metal components. In the case of standing rigging on a sailing boat, this is the loading and unloading of shrouds and stays. Think about the windward shrouds loading up, while the leeward side relaxes: this cyclical loading causes cell structures to develop within the metal, these cells gradually harden and then develop microscopic cracks.

The crack growth stage follows next and these microscopic cracks will develop into larger ones, which may eventually be visible to the naked eye on the surface of the metal component. The speed of the crack growth phase will alter depending on how often and how hard your rigging is put under load.

Ultimate failure is caused when a crack exceeds a size that results in the component no longer supporting load. Failure will be sudden.

First published in the September 2020 issue of Yachting World.

Standing Rigging on a Sailboat: Everything You Need to Know

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 14, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

Short answer standing rigging on a sailboat:

Standing rigging on a sailboat refers to fixed lines and cables that support the mast and help control its movement. It includes components like shrouds, stays, and forestays. These essential elements ensure stability and proper sail trim while underway.

Understanding the Importance of Standing Rigging on a Sailboat

Sailboats are marvels of engineering and ingenuity, capable of harnessing the power of the wind to transport us across vast oceans and explore far-flung destinations. As sailors, we often focus on the majestic sails, sleek hull designs, and cutting-edge navigation technology that make these vessels so awe-inspiring. However, there is one crucial component that sometimes goes unnoticed but plays a vital role in keeping our sailboats safe and seaworthy – the standing rigging.

The standing rigging refers to the network of wires and cables that support the mast and allow it to bear the tremendous loads exerted by the sails. It acts as the backbone of a sailboat’s rig , providing stability, strength, and balance. Understanding its importance is crucial for anyone who sets foot on a vessel with dreams of cruising or competing.

Firstly, let’s examine why standing rigging is essential for sailboat safety. Imagine being out at sea when suddenly your mast collapses due to faulty rigging . This nightmare scenario can easily be avoided by regularly inspecting your boat’s standing rigging for signs of wear or fatigue. Frayed wires or corroded fittings could weaken the entire structure, making it susceptible to failure under heavy winds or rough seas . By ensuring your standing rigging is in good shape through routine maintenance and inspections by professionals, you can significantly reduce this risk and ensure your own safety onboard.

Moreover, properly tensioned standing rigging is vital for maintaining optimum sailing performance. The tension in each wire within the standing rig allows for efficient transfer of power from sails to keel through mast compression. If your standing rigging is too loose or too tight, it can negatively impact your sail trim and overall boat handling capabilities. A well-tuned rig will provide better control over sail shape adjustments necessary for different wind conditions while maximizing speed potential – something every sailor strives for!

Beyond safety and performance, understanding the importance of standing rigging requires recognizing its impact on the overall balance of your sailboat. The rigging plays a crucial role in maintaining the boat’s equilibrium by counteracting the forces exerted by the sails. Without proper tension and alignment of the standing rig, a sailboat may become unbalanced, resulting in compromised stability. This imbalance can make steering more challenging, increase the risk of broaching, or even lead to capsizing in extreme cases. Therefore, paying close attention to your standing rigging ensures that your boat remains stable and enjoyable to sail.

Lastly, it is worth mentioning that investing in high-quality materials and professional rigging services will prove cost-effective in the long run . While it may be tempting to cut corners or delay necessary upgrades or maintenance, neglecting your standing rigging will only result in more significant expenses down the line. Inadequate rig tension can lead to excessive wear on other components such as sails or mast fittings, increasing their replacement frequency and cost.

In conclusion, understanding and valuing the importance of standing rigging on a sailboat is essential for sailors of all levels. It directly impacts safety at sea, enhances sailing performance, maintains balance and stability, ultimately contributing to an enjoyable experience on board. So next time you set foot on a sailboat or contemplate owning one yourself, don’t forget to give due attention to this often overlooked but vital aspect – your boat’s standing rigging!

Step-by-Step Guide: How to Inspect and Maintain Standing Rigging on a Sailboat

Title: Cracking the Code: A Step-by-Step Guide to Inspecting and Maintaining Standing Rigging on a Sailboat

Introduction: Ahoy, fellow sailors! Whether you’re an experienced seafarer or a sailing enthusiast ready to cast off, understanding how to inspect and maintain your sailboat’s standing rigging is crucial for smooth voyages on the high seas. In this detailed guide, we will unravel the mysteries of standing rigging examination and upkeep, enabling you to confidently navigate through any sailing adventure. So hoist your mainsail, secure your halyards, and let’s dive into the world of rigging maintenance !

1. Understanding Standing Rigging: Before we embark on our inspection journey, let’s clarify what exactly constitutes standing rigging. Embracing technical jargon like professionals often do, this refers to those sturdy wire cables that provide support to the mast and keep everything in place as your vessel slices through the waves. These cables are under constant stress from wind pressure and oceanic forces; therefore, routine inspections are vital.

2. Assemble Your Inspection Arsenal: Essential tools at hand? Check! Embark upon your quest equipped with binoculars (to assess hard-to-reach areas), a multimeter (for electrical testing), tape measure (we love accuracy!), a notepad (to document findings), lubricant spray can (to combat rust), and some good ol’ elbow grease.

3. Visual Inspection Bonanza: Begin by examining every component of your standing rigging thoroughly. Start from bow to stern – nothing should elude your gaze! Look out for signs of fraying wires, corrosion spots – identified by those elusive green spots -, improperly tightened connections or turnbuckles hanging loose like unfortunate pirate hooks. Pay close attention when checking shrouds and stays around their terminal points.

4. Tension Testing Zen: Employing a multimeter capable of measuring tension is vital for this next step. Like tuning an instrument, each cable must be correctly tensioned to ensure optimal performance . Begin at the base of your mast, working your way up one stay or shroud after another, carefully noting the readings. Adjust tensions as needed, using the manufacturer’s guidelines as your North Star.

5. Get Into Detailing Mode: To maintain a seaworthy craft, meticulousness is key! Start by cleaning every inch of standing rigging with fresh water and mild soap to rid it of salt crystals and other corrosive agents that Mother Nature throws our way. Once dry, inspect terminals for any hidden corrosion potential. Remember to apply lubrication around all fittings where metal meets metal – preserving their longevity on this salty adventure.

6. Diving into DIY Replacements: Sometimes, despite our best efforts, some elements may need replacement eventually. Worn-out or damaged fittings demand immediate action! While there are professionals who can lend a helping hand, attempting minor repairs yourself allows you to save time and money in the long run. Just remember safety first – secure your vessel properly before venturing aloft!

7. Periodic Inspections are Pathway to Peace: As the seasons go by and maritime miles accumulate beneath your hull’s keel, remember that rigging inspections should become regular occurrences in your life as a sailor. Incorporating these tasks into your annual maintenance routine will keep you up-to-date on the health of your standing rigging and reduce unexpected surprises during those thrilling offshore adventures.

Conclusion: With this comprehensive guide in tow, inspecting and maintaining standing rigging on a sailboat will no longer bewilder even the most landlocked soul. Armed with knowledge and armed-still-with tools-of-the-trade in hand – embark upon every voyage knowing that smooth sailing is within reach! Remember comrades: vigilance coupled with clever maintenance ensures many marvelous voyages atop Neptune’s watery kingdom!

The Key Components of Standing Rigging on a Sailboat Explained

When it comes to sailing, understanding the key components of standing rigging is crucial. This system of cables and wires plays a vital role in keeping a sailboat’s mast upright and ensuring the safety of everyone on board. So, let’s dive into these essential elements to unravel their importance and how they work together seamlessly.

1. Mast: The mast, often referred to as the backbone of a sailboat, is a tall vertical structure that supports the sails. It provides stability and acts as an attachment point for various components of the standing rigging.

2. Shrouds: Shrouds are strong steel or synthetic cables that extend from the top of the mast down to its sides, creating lateral support. Usually arranged in pairs, they help prevent excessive side-to-side movement and maintain proper alignment while under sail or at anchor .

3. Forestay: Situated at the front of the mast, directly opposite to where you stand while steering, is the forestay. This forward-facing cable keeps the mast from tipping backward due to wind pressure against the sails when sailing upwind. It ensures that your sailboat remains balanced even in gusty conditions.

4. Backstay: The backstay is another essential component that counterbalances the force exerted by the forestay on your sailboat’s mast when sailing upwind or under heavy loads. Most commonly attached at or near the highest part of your boat ‘s stern (aft end), this cable prevents undue bending or breaking caused by fore-aft pressure.

5. Tangs and Turnbuckles: These small yet mighty components connect shrouds and stays to both the hull and mast with ease and allow for easy adjustment and fine-tuning of tensioning within your standing rigging system. Tangs are fittings attached directly to masts or other structural components using bolts or screws, while turnbuckles provide threaded connections allowing for precise adjustments.

6. Spreaders: Installed horizontally on either side of the mast, spreaders play a crucial role in maintaining the integrity and proper angle of shrouds. They prevent excessive bending or twisting forces by creating a wider stance for the shrouds, ensuring even stress distribution.

7. Standing Rigging Lifelines: These lines, typically made of stainless steel wires or synthetic materials like Dyneema, serve as an additional safety measure by helping to prevent crew members from falling overboard while working on deck. Strategically placed along the sides of the sailboat, they offer stability and support during maneuvering or rough seas.

Understanding these key components is vital not only for sailboat owners but also for anyone interested in sailing . Proper maintenance and routine inspections are essential to ensure optimal performance and mitigate any risks associated with deficiencies within your standing rigging system.

So next time you set sail or find yourself gazing out at a beautifully rigged sailboat, take a moment to appreciate the intricate balance and coordination that these key components provide. It’s truly a remarkable collaboration between technology, engineering, and Mother Nature herself – allowing us to glide through the waves with grace and elegance.

Common FAQs about Standing Rigging on a Sailboats Answered

Introduction: Standing rigging is an essential component of sailboats, playing a crucial role in supporting the mast and ensuring optimal performance on the water. However, many sailors are often perplexed by various aspects of standing rigging, leading to a multitude of frequently asked questions. In this comprehensive blog post, we aim to answer some of the most common FAQs about standing rigging on sailboats, providing detailed and professional insights while adding a touch of wit and cleverness.

1. What exactly is standing rigging? Ah, standing rigging – the unsung hero of every sailboat! Standing rigging refers to all the fixed elements that support the mast in an upright position. These elements typically comprise stainless steel wires called shrouds and stays along with associated fittings like turnbuckles and tangs. Think of it as the sturdy backbone that keeps your mast from taking an inconvenient swim!

2. When should I inspect my standing rigging? Regular inspections are crucial for maintaining a safe sailing experience. We recommend inspecting your standing rigging at least once a year or before embarking on any long voyage. Additionally, keep an eye out for any signs indicating potential problems such as excessive rust, wire deformation, or frayed cables. Remember: It’s better to be safe on land than sorry at sea !

3. How do I know when it’s time to replace my standing rigging? While rigorous inspections can highlight any potential issues, there are certain indicators that suggest your standing rigging might need replacement sooner than later:

a) Age: As a general rule of thumb, consider replacing your standing rigging after 10-15 years. b) Visible damage: If you spot visible signs of wear and tear like broken strands or corroded fittings, it’s time for new gear. c) Elongation: In some cases, constant strain can cause wire elongation over time – if this exceeds manufacturer recommendations or 5%, it’s replacement time. d) Performance decline: Have you noticed reduced boat performance or excessive mast movement? Outdated rigging may be the culprit.

4. Can I inspect and replace standing rigging myself? Inspecting your own standing rigging is indeed possible if you possess adequate knowledge and experience. However, replacing it yourself requires specific expertise, so unless you’re a seasoned sailor with professional background in rigging, we highly recommend entrusting this task to certified riggers who can ensure everything is done correctly. After all, your safety should never be compromised!

5. How much does standing rigging replacement cost? Ah, the golden question! While costs can vary depending on factors like the size of your boat, the material used for new rigging (stainless steel or synthetic fibers), and labor expenses – expect to invest anywhere from a few thousand to tens of thousands of dollars for a complete standing rigging replacement. Remember that proper maintenance upfront can help extend the lifespan of your rigging and save you some precious doubloons!

6. Can I switch from stainless steel to synthetic fibers for my standing rigging? Absolutely! Synthetic fiber alternatives like Dyneema® have gained popularity due to their lighter weight, high strength-to-weight ratio, and lower corrosion risk compared to stainless steel. These materials offer enhanced performance capabilities and are a valid consideration when upgrading or replacing your standing rigging system entirely.

7. What’s the typical lifespan of synthetic fiber standing rigging? While longevity depends on various factors such as usage patterns and environmental conditions, well-maintained synthetic fiber standing rigging systems generally last around 10-12 years before requiring replacement – comparable to their stainless steel counterparts.

Conclusion: Standing rigging on sailboats may seem mysterious at first glance, but by answering these common FAQs with informative yet witty explanations, we hope to shed light on this crucial sailing component while bringing a smile to our readers’ faces. Remember, understanding and properly maintaining your standing rigging will ensure safe and enjoyable voyages for years to come. So, stay rig-ready and sail on!

Upgrading Your Standing Rigging: What You Need to Know

In the world of sailing, upgrading your standing rigging is a vital decision that can greatly impact your vessel’s performance and overall safety. The standing rigging, which includes the various wires and cables that hold the mast upright, plays an essential role in ensuring stability and proper sail control. In this blog post, we will delve into everything you need to know about this crucial aspect of sailing.

Firstly, why should you consider upgrading your standing rigging? Over time, wear and tear can take a toll on this crucial component of your boat . Exposure to harsh weather conditions, continuous strain from strong winds or heavy sails, and even galvanic corrosion can all lead to the degradation of your rigging. As a responsible sailor, it is imperative to regularly assess the condition of your standing rigging and determine when an upgrade is necessary.

When it comes to upgrading your standing rigging, there are several key factors you need to consider. One essential aspect is choosing the right materials for your new rigging. Traditionally, stainless steel has been widely used due to its durability and strength. However, recent advancements in composite materials have opened up new possibilities for sailors. High-tech fibers like carbon or aramid offer impressive strength-to-weight ratios while being less susceptible to corrosion than steel.

It is important to consult with an experienced rigger or marine engineer who can guide you in selecting the most suitable material for your specific sailing activities and vessel type. They will take into account factors such as boat size, intended use (racing or cruising), budget constraints, and local climate conditions before recommending the best material for your standing rigging upgrade.

Another crucial consideration in upgrading your standing rigging is determining whether you want to switch from wire rope-based rigging to rod-based systems or composite products. Rods are known for their superior stiffness and excellent fatigue resistance but may require specialized equipment for assembly and maintenance. Composite systems typically combine carbon fiber or fiberglass with a resin matrix, offering versatility and customization options.

Furthermore, when planning to upgrade your standing rigging, it’s essential to conduct a thorough inspection of the mast and fittings. Any signs of wear and tear, cracks, or deformations in the mast or associated hardware should not be overlooked. Reinforcing these components may be necessary before installing new rigging to ensure optimal safety and performance .

During the installation process itself, meticulous attention to detail is crucial. Proper tensioning and alignment of the rigging are vital for achieving optimal sailing performance . Consulting with professionals in the field will ensure that you avoid common pitfalls such as over-tensioning or under-tensioning your rigging, which can potentially compromise its strength and longevity.

Upgrading your standing rigging not only ensures a safer sailing experience but also presents an opportunity to enhance your vessel’s performance capabilities. By optimizing sail control and reducing overall weight aloft, you can achieve faster speeds and improved maneuverability on the water.

In conclusion, upgrading your standing rigging is an investment that should never be taken lightly. It requires careful consideration of multiple factors such as materials, boat specifications, and local conditions. Seeking expert advice throughout this process will help you make informed decisions that align with your sailing goals while ensuring maximum safety and enjoyment on the open seas . So don’t hesitate – take charge of your vessel’s integrity today by embarking on an exhilarating upgrade journey!

Troubleshooting Common Issues with Standing Rigging on a Sailboat

Title: Navigating the High Seas of Standing Rigging: Deconstructing Common Sailboat Troubles

Introduction: Setting sail on a beautiful day, wind in your hair, and salt in the air – there’s nothing quite like the freedom of sailing. But as any experienced sailor knows, with great freedom comes great responsibility; one must always be prepared to tackle common issues that can arise with standing rigging on a sailboat. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll be your navigational chart through the murky waters of troubleshooting these problems.

1. The Tale of Loose Wires: Picture this: you’re out at sea, enjoying the blissful embrace of nature when suddenly you notice an unsettling amount of slack in your boat’s rigging wires. As panic sets in, take a deep breath and remember that loose wires are not an uncommon predicament. Before jumping ship into despair, consider inspecting your turnbuckles for any signs of wear or corrosion. Often, a simple tightening or lubing can solve the issue and restore equilibrium to your rigging system.

2. Strange Groans from Your Mast: As the wind howls through your sails, does it feel like someone is playing an eerie tune on your mast? Fear not! These disconcerting noises can typically be traced back to halyards rubbing against sheaves or pulleys. Be diligent about inspecting these components and ensuring they are properly aligned and lubricated.

3. The Mystery of Shaky Connections: Imagine cruising along peacefully when you notice unsettling vibrations emanating from various connections within your standing rigging system – another nuisance faced by many sailors. Remember to check bolts and fittings for tightness and wear regularly; sometimes a mere tightening can spare you from enduring an inconvenient wobble during every voyage.

4. Elusive Corrosion Castaways: While corrosion may seem like a mythical creature lurking under layers of saltwater incantations, it sadly isn’t. The corrosive effects of the marine environment can take their toll on your rigging, leading to weakened and compromised wires. To avoid this encroaching villain, regularly inspect your rigging for signs of corrosion, paying extra attention to any dissimilar metals in contact with each other. When identified early, you can tackle this issue head-on through diligent cleaning and application of protective coatings.

5. That Perplexing Sag: No one wants a saggy rig! If you notice an unacceptable amount of slack or downward curve in your wire stays or shrouds when under load, it’s time to put on your problem-solving hat. Begin by ensuring that all turnbuckles are suitably tensioned and that the mast rake is properly adjusted. A little fine-tuning may be all it takes to regain the tautness required for smooth sailing .

6. Stay Seals Against Abrasion: Do you find your stay seals battling against wear and tear? It might be time to beef up their defenses! Insulate vulnerable areas with appropriately sized rubber tubing or durable tape like self-amalgamating tape. This extra layer of protection will help prevent damage from chafing lines or abrasive surfaces.

Conclusion: As sailboat enthusiasts know, standing rigging issues can arise unexpectedly and interrupt even the most idyllic voyages at sea. By keeping these troubleshooting considerations in mind while setting sail , you’ll have a handy compass to lead you through the challenges that come with maintaining a well-maintained rig. So next time the wind whispers trouble into your ears while adrift on your beautiful vessel, fear not – armed with knowledge and wit, you’ll conquer those common issues with ease and go back to enjoying the sublime freedom provided by sailing adventures!

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How Much Does It Cost to Replace Standing Sailing Rigging?

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When it comes to standing sailing rigging replacement cost, there is no one-size-fits-all answer.

The cost of replacing your standing rigging will depend on a variety of factors, including the size and type of boat, the age and condition of the rigging, and the materials used in the replacement process.

In this blog post, we will provide an overview of the factors that affect standing rigging replacement costs, as well as some ballpark estimates for what you can expect to pay.

Cost Factors

One of the most important factors in standing rigging replacement cost is the size of your boat. Larger boats will require more material and labor to replace their standing rigging, and as such, will typically have higher costs.

Additionally, the age and condition of your standing rigging will also affect the cost of replacement. If your standing rigging is old or in poor condition, it may need to be replaced with a higher-quality product, which will also drive up costs.

Finally, the materials used in standing rigging replacement can also affect costs. Most standing rigging is made from stainless steel wire or rod, but some manufacturers offer alternatives made from other materials like carbon fiber or Kevlar.

These alternative materials can sometimes offer advantages in terms of weight or performance, but they also come with a higher price tag.

Ballpark Estimates

With all of these factors in mind, what can you expect to pay for standing rigging replacement?

For a small boat (under 30 feet), you can expect to pay anywhere from $500 to $2000 for standing rigging replacement. For a medium-sized boat (30-50 feet), the cost will be somewhere between $2000 and $4000.

And for a large boat (over 50 feet), you should budget for at least $4000, and potentially much more depending on the size and condition of the vessel.

Of course, these are just ballpark estimates, and your actual costs may vary.

Can You Do It Yourself?

For many boat owners, standing rigging replacement is a job that is best left to the professionals. The process can be complex and dangerous, and it is important to make sure that the job is done correctly in order to avoid serious safety risks.

However, if you are experienced with working on boats and are confident in your ability to handle the project, you may be able to save some money by doing the work yourself.

If you do decide to tackle standing rigging replacement on your own, be sure to do plenty of research ahead of time and have a clear plan for how you will complete the project. You should also factor in the cost of any tools or materials that you will need to purchase in order to complete the job.

Hi, my name’s David. I started this pricing blog as a side project to help people figure out the best prices on common services. Whether you’re trying to figure out how much it costs to get scanning done at Staples or the expense to bleach short hair, more than likely I’ve blogged about it. Shoot me an email if you have any questions: [email protected].

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Boat rigging: a guide to going composite

• Sam Fortescue
• July 1, 2021

Considering changing you boat rigging to composite but confused by the options? Sam Fortescue takes a look at the pros and cons of various solutions

‘Like the shift from wooden spars to alloy spars after the Second World War, we are moving to carbon spars and composite boat rigging for cruising boats,’ says well-known surveyor Kim Skov-Nielsen. ‘We are living on the cusp of a major shift to all-composite rigs.’

Four broad options for modern boat rigging run from ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (HMPE) to aramid, PBO (poly-benzoxazole) and finally full carbon.

Compared to steel, all these options offer much lighter weight, which makes for less pitching and rolling in a sea. Greater rig stiffness improves sail trim and transfers forces more efficiently – particularly in lighter winds. And synthetic fibres resist the invisible fatigue that undoes stainless steel systems.

For budget-conscious boaters looking to save weight aloft, carbon rigging is a much cheaper way to do it than carbon spars

On the other hand, the cost can be two to four times that of wire boat rigging, and repairs are tricky outside major sailing centres. Some of the fibres degrade rapidly with exposure to UV or moisture, so damage to the sheathing will shorten the lifespan of the stay.

Carbon in particular is also susceptible to impacts from the side. Every sailor will weigh up the options differently, but here are your choices:

HMPE (Dyneema/Spectra)

Dyneema and Spectra has extraordinary tenacity and a very low weight, but many riggers are wary of using it on cruisers because they consider it too elastic.

However, US specialist Colligo Marine says it is just a question of picking the right grade of Dyneema and sizing it correctly. ‘Many people have mistakenly sized Dyneema for break strength and ended up with a very stretchy rig,’ says John Franta of Colligo Marine. ‘Stretch is a function of cross-sectional area, so all you need to do is pick the right diameter for your application.’

That means you’re going to end up with a bigger Dyneema line than your original wire, causing marginally more windage, albeit at a fraction of the weight. For example, the 8mm wire that is standard on many 40ft cruisers would have to be replaced with 11mm Dyneema in a Colligo Dux system, but this should creep less than 3mm per year.

Colligo’s aluminium chainplate eye can be tensioned with a lashing on sub-30ft boats

The variety of HMPE you use is vital, too, as the strands within the line align themselves with the load.

‘A 50ft-long backstay made from normal Dyneema can grow 4-6 inches in length,’ says Franta. That’s why Colligo only uses heat-stretched Dyneema SK75, where the fibres are already very tightly aligned, instead of higher-tech grades like SK99 and DM20.

A typical HMPE stay is spliced around a lightweight aluminium thimble, which fits easily to traditional fork at the deck end. You’ll need a special Colligo stemball fitting aloft or a CheekyTang, spliced into a loop at the top end of the shroud, then bolted through the mast.

Chafe and UV are the chief enemies of Dyneema rigs. ‘It is easier to cut and has a low melting point of 100°, so a fast-moving sheet could cut through it in seconds,’ warns Marlow sales director Paul Honess. Colligo is PVC shrink-wrapped for this reason and should last eight to 12 years without mishap.

Aromatic polyamides (Kevlar is a Dupont trademark) have low creep and high tenacity, but they also resist abrasion well – important when pitching and rolling across the Atlantic, for example.

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Aramids are five times stronger than steel rope weight-for-weight, but that multiple falls if the fibres become wet and UV light causes them rapid damage, so cables have to be well sealed and protected.

Aramid stays

OYS has been designing Kevlar backstays with stainless steel terminations for years, and recommends a maximum working load of 40% of the cable’s breaking strain to minimise creep, so aramid stays are a little fatter than rod equivalents.

For example, an 8.5mm cable can take loads of 3000kg and yet weighs just 60g per metre. Compare that to Nitronic, where 7.5mm rod offering the same working load weighs 350g per metre. ‘You size it for stretch, and then you end up with a much higher safety factor,’ says Robbie Sargent of OYS. ‘It’s flexible and you can coil it up, plus it’s relatively price competitive and looks smart. Aramid is to all intents and purposes a cruising product.’

Black sheathing is standard, but lighter custom colours can reduce the cable’s resistance to UV. OYS does not recommend aramid shrouds on a monohull. ‘Rod and wire is pretty bullet-proof in terms of chafe and physical damage,’ says Sargent. ‘Composite rigging is a lot more fragile. A mid-sized Oyster or Swan has full battens – can go that goes through the textile sheath very quickly.’

The material works well in fore- and backstays, runners and inner fore-stays, or as lateral rigging on a multihull, he adds.

Dutch-based Aramid Rigging uses an advanced endless winding machine for made-to-measure stays. The bundle of fibres is in turn wrapped in heat shrink to keep out water, then an outer protective braid with a UV-resistant coating. The metal thimbles at each end are then sealed inside a polyurethane moulding, eliminating one common point of failure for steel rigs.

Developed in the 1980s, polybenzoxazole or PBO was seen as a step up from aramid for rigging raceboats, with nearly twice the strength and modulus – stiffness. It weighs less than 20% of rigging wire, and manufacturers have developed an easy-to-fit cruising product.

Powerlite PBO cables from Applied Fiber

Westmarine in the US worked with Applied Fiber to develop the Powerlite brand – fully compatible with normal terminations at the mast and deck, so it can be swapped for an existing wire or rod stay.

A sheath is extruded on to pre-tensioned bundles of PBO at the manufacturing stage, protecting the fibres from UV, water and abrasion. It can even be run through the spreaders like steel.

Allspars is the UK supplier for the Dutch EasyRigging system, but both manufacturers agree the rig should be replaced after eight years – sooner if the boats have been raced hard. Babystays, runners and removable forestays should be replaced after just four years. Some riggers, however, say that PBO has been eclipsed by carbon for performance, while Dyneema and aramid stays are cheaper and more robust. ‘PBO has proven unreliable, inexplicably brittle and very susceptible to UV damage,’ says surveyor Skov-Nielsen. ‘It doesn’t even get discussed these days when contemplating new rigging.’

The state of the art remains carbon, where Future Fibres dominates. Before you turn the page with a scoff, know that costs have plunged and manufacturing has improved – bringing carbon rigging within reach of cruising boats.

‘ECthree is entry-level for those that want to move away from rod rigging for better performance and more comfort at sea,’ says general manager James Austin. ‘We have a mission to democratise that and make it a more accessible product for someone in the 30-60ft category.’

ECthree is made of rods of pure carbon, bundled, sheathed and fitted with stainless steel terminations, making them easy to retrofit. It is similar to the peak performance ECsix product. ‘It is 20% lower in modulus but one fifth of the cost,’ says Austin. ‘We think that’s a good compromise.’

Moving from rod to carbon rigging on a 45ft yacht is ‘equivalent to having an extra person sitting on the rail’

Carbon boat rigging saves 65% of the weight of rod rigging. It is invulnerable to water or UV, so is ideal for use on a yacht. True, carbon doesn’t handle lateral forces as well as steel, but the construction allows the fibres to move and flex within the sheath.

The stainless-steel fittings are designed to be replaceable, but the cable should be inspected and serviced regularly – a service Future provides in the package.

‘It is unrealistic to think we can get to the same price as rod, but we would hope to be less than double,’ says Austin. ‘It’s undoubtedly a cost premium to have composite rigging, but you have to look at it over 15- to 20-year life-cycle of the boat.’ The lateral rigging on a Grand Soleil 46 refitted recently cost around £15,000.

LightSpeed, a smaller US manufacturer that is also trying to drive carbon rigging into the sub-80ft cruising bracket, uses the same Toray T700 as Future, with smart titanium terminals that fit most common types of standard rigging screw and mast fitting. ‘We are unique in building an integrated Technora blend into the hoop structure of the cable, which delivers unmatched cable chafe protection and durability without adding bulk of a cover,’ says technical specialist Mike Wasten.

Comparative boat rigging costs

• Wire and rod – rigging a Dehler 38 with standard 1×19 wire or Nitronic rod, would be an estimated £2,280 for wire and around £5,000 for rod.
• HMPE (Dyneema/ Spectra)  – Cables to rig a Dehler 38 would cost £2,900-3,700.
• Aramid – costs of around £7,500 for the Dehler 38 are 40-60% more than rod rigging
• PBO  – Powerlite claims its cables cost just 30% more than rod, quoting $8,525 (£6,210) for a Dehler 38 with running backstays.
• Carbon – $20,000 (£14,600) for a complete set of stays with runners to suit a Dehler 38.

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> > Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on Cruisers Forums. 29-12-2009, 13:31   Boat: Careel 22 and rig need replacing about every 10 years for crusing sail-boats? And at todays prices, one could expecct a quote of around $70,000AU + (around $50,000US +) for and rig on a 40 to 50' sail-boat? I would apprecate all replies from those that know, specially "Full-time folk". Calm seas and good winds to all. Bill 29-12-2009, 14:17   Boat: Nordship 40ds . I have got quotes for sails for my 40' and they range from $8k for a and a main and I replaced the standing on my boat. That cost me $10k. This was rod and increased the quite a bit. if it were wire you could get away for about half that . Probably less if you did the yourself. I have never heard of anyone replacing their after ten years. Except on a boat. 29-12-2009, 14:36   Boat: Morgan OI 413 1973 - Aythya for 25 years and I have replaced the standing rigging (shrouds only w/swedges) twice and the sails once. The main, 120 and mizzen costs me about 6K in 1992 and my rigging cost me about 2k on each occassion; however, I did ALL the myself. I simply ordered the measured lengths and their swedge fittings. I did replace one chainplate of 12 over the 37 year age of the boat and I have had no need to replace turnbuckles, toggles, or masts over that time. I have inspected and refinished much of this regularly. I think the high costs you hear of are only typical for owners that this tasks to professional rigging companies, not the approach that is typical for most fulltime cruisers. 'take care and joy, Aythya crew 29-12-2009, 14:54   Boat: Cat in the med & Trawler in Florida for 25 years and I have replaced the standing rigging (shrouds only w/swedges) twice and the sails once. The main, 120 and mizzen costs me about 6K in 1992 and my rigging cost me about 2k on each occassion; however, I did ALL the work myself. I simply ordered the measured lengths and their swedge fittings. I did replace one chainplate of 12 over the 37 year age of the boat and I have had no need to replace turnbuckles, toggles, or masts over that time. I have inspected and refinished much of this regularly. I think the high costs you hear of are only typical for owners that this tasks to professional rigging companies, not the approach that is typical for most fulltime cruisers. 'take care and joy, Aythya crew 29-12-2009, 15:06   Boat: Nordhavn 47 . Sails quotes are running 6-7K for main and genoa. Jim 29-12-2009, 15:32   Boat: Roberts 44 Offshore . Complete and Mizzen from Rigging Only, $4500 including . This is every part except chainplates. 29-12-2009, 15:40   Boat: Gozzard 36 system for about $13K more. 30-12-2009, 05:47   Boat: Caliber 40 main for our Caliber 40. The total cost for all three sails from UK Halsey was $7700. Can't say about the rigging. We will probably be in the market for new standing rigging in the next year or so. Caliber 40 hull #55 30-12-2009, 05:57   Boat: Roaring Girl: Maxi 120 ketch, 12 long coast for 3 years before we did that, including some fairly hairy short-term moments. When we rerigged in 2006, it was about GBP3000, but we are a ketch! Your insurers might have a view on length of time too. Similarly lots of UV will shorten your sails' lives - so that will effect your budgets for replacement. Secondly where you buy your sails can vary hugely in price. We bought a new main for our 40' ketch in 2008. We got quotes in the UK, and - and we could have bought two in for the EU prices. The China one, including tax, etc was around GBP1000. The other two quotes were both just over GBP2K. We are very happy with the quality of the sail. There were problems with the cover which they replaced free with no arguments. Some people want their sail maker to do the first bending on etc, and that can be very useful. You do need to get your measurements absolutely right. But it's a huge saving to bear in mind when you make the decision. So the you started this with seems very very high to me, even if you're not up for doing all the re-rigging yourself. 30-12-2009, 06:48   Shop in and here is what they gave me. The quality and were great and the price seemed to be the best. Sails (Main and 135%) $5000 Standing Rigging $4800 Tide Sail Track $1250 $1000 I have a 42' and was looking for this for a while. We will see how they hold up but so far so good. 30-12-2009, 13:45   Boat: Careel 22 on vessels of 40 to 50', i.e. Which were more suitable for full-time use, before jumping in. I had become, almost, set in believing a 36 to 40' would be best size-and-fit for me but...being a retired MV man (merchant service) I have kept the door open on which vessel, sail or MV, I would be better of with. I have no wish to buy in a rush then repent at leisure and, as I'm also a man of limited means, I need to be careful with my funds...don't we all I found this site, and that's where I found the "sail and rigging replacement costs" that started this thread. Philip, the owner of the site, may have, by accedent, entered an extra zero, but from what you "people who know" say...He's way out on the figure of $50,000US. Again, thank you for responding with useful figures. They are a big help to anyone in that "make-your-mind-up...Before you buy" mode 30-12-2009, 14:09   Boat: Valiant 40 (1975) and have prices on sails. I would probably count at least 7k for rigging and 10k for a almost new set of cruising sails. I pulled the chainplates off, cleaned them and took a good look at them. Replaced almost all of them due to pitting and cracks (after 35 years) But then again, i don't want to worry about them for another 35 years... 30-12-2009, 16:38   Boat: 50ft powercat, light,long and low powered type and performance expectations and requirements. My decision to go over sail was based on quality alloy rotating mast, Anderson winches and mostly Antal fittings elsewhere, batcar system, square top cruiselam or similar sails, with screechers and kites in socks built by a specialist . replacement every 5 to 7 years based on previous sail longevity, headsails similar. Wire replacement every 5 years, forestay earlier again based on wire on previously owned vessel. This worked out to be a pretty big number Of course I could have put up a telegraph post with gal wire and second hand rags or new ones, but for the style of vessel (performance multi capable of actually sailing in 5 knots of breeze) it would seem a pointless exercise and a lot of can be bought for the cost of rig, sails and hardware and replacement. 30-12-2009, 21:04   Boat: C & C Landfall 38 30-12-2009, 23:50   Boat: Careel 22 type and performance expectations and requirements. My decision to go over sail was based on quality alloy rotating mast, Anderson winches and mostly Antal fittings elsewhere, batcar system, square top cruiselam or similar sails, with screechers and kites in socks built by a specialist . replacement every 5 to 7 years based on previous sail longevity, headsails similar. Wire replacement every 5 years, forestay earlier again based on wire on previously owned vessel. This worked out to be a pretty big number Of course I could have put up a telegraph post with gal wire and second hand rags or new ones, but for the style of vessel (performance multi capable of actually sailing in 5 knots of breeze) it would seem a pointless exercise and a lot of can be bought for the cost of rig, sails and hardware and replacement. Thread Tools Rate This Thread : Posting Rules post new threads post replies post attachments edit your posts is are code is are are are Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post jeffbrainard Classifieds Archive 3 13-11-2009 06:27 RayfromFrance Monohull Sailboats 36 27-08-2009 23:22 Born to Cruise Monohull Sailboats 5 02-06-2008 04:25 bg9208 Deck hardware: Rigging, Sails & Hoisting 3 11-02-2008 19:49 dustinp Construction, Maintenance & Refit 27 18-11-2007 05:06 - - - - - - - Privacy Guaranteed - your email is never shared with anyone, opt out any time. Forum Listing Marketplace Advanced Search About The Boat Gear & Maintenance SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more! running rigging replacement cost for a 30ft Add to quote I had an idea to hire out running rigging replacement on a 30ft sloop, with nothing fancy, just a double braid polyester. The estimate turned out to be 1700-2000+. So I told the rigger to replace just the main halyard for now (and I will do the rest by myself). He wants close to $500 for the halyard. This seems like at least 4x or 5x the cost of materials. Does this seem reasonable or am being taken for a ride?   Don't know about the price but you may want to consider sta-set-x for the halyard as it is only a few penny's more than stay-set (double braid) but with less stretch. Also I would want to know if the shivs need replacing as that would up the cost. So if your mast is what less than 40' and you have the halyard run back to the cockpit you have maybe 90' of line probably 5/16" or 3/8" at about a $1.00 a foot retail and possibly a new shackle and about two hours maybe three at $100 an hour it looks like 3 to 4 hundred might be closer unless you are not telling us something. Like the boat is on a mooring a mile out in the harbor and the line parted and the mast needs to be climbed.   Here is a tip: do it yourself. It is actually pretty easy to do. Halyards are pretty easy to replace by stitching the new line onto an end of the old line and pulling it through. David is right that if your sheaves at the top of the mast are messed up this can be much more difficult to do. Most of the lines on your boat are easy to replace but the line may cost a significant amount of money. I'd guess that you could replace ALL your running rigging on a Tartan 30 for under $500 in materials. I'd consider getting this sewing tool to attach the 2 lines together: BAINBRIDGE INTL Needle at West Marine be smart about burning the ends of each line you cut.   When we got our Taran 27' about 8 years ago the PO spent the day with me and we replaced a sheet and and a halyard together. It was not difficult to do without going up the mast in a boasuns chair. There is also the trick of using a paper clip that has been bent into a double hook arrangement to grab each end of the line. You don't really want a joint between the lines that is fatter so splicing might or might not work as well as just sewing the two bitter ends together and covering with the rigging tape of your choice. I also really like to know how my running rigging lines are routed. DIY makes sense to me.   CalebD said: There is also the trick of using a paper clip that has been bent into a double hook arrangement to grab each end of the line. You don't really want a joint between the lines that is fatter so splicing might or might not work as well as just sewing the two bitter ends together and covering with the rigging tape of your choice. I also really like to know how my running rigging lines are routed. DIY makes sense to me. Click to expand... I replaced the main halyard and spin halyard on my previous boat. Had the eye splices done by Defender's rigging service and pulled them through using a light messenger with the mast up. Pretty easy job.   Zib, I'm with Caleb on this one. $300 worth of labor, hell, I'd be ashamed if it took me a single hour to replace an existing line with a new one. Buy an extra ten feet of line and a splicing kit and video, spend some time learning how to splice in whatever the end fitting will be and consider yourself well paid by the savings. Or run a messenger line with the old halyard, then drop the new line and eye off at a shop and have someone make the splice. That surely can't cost more than $75....and you can still feed the new halyard "backwards" with the messenger line that way. The rigger's time is certainly worth money, but three hours at a hundred apiece to run a halyard...I hope that includes a titanium shackle, because the price of gold is only $1600 an ounce these days and 24k plating doesn't need a dollar's worth of it.   I just spent an inordinate amount of time researching and then purchasing new running rigging. Fortunately I have all the original specs for my sailboat ... if you don't try looking here Sailboatdata.com is the worlds largest sailboat and sailing yacht database with more than 8000 sailboats, sailing yachts, and sailing dingies listed. I'm modifying deck layout and running everything back to the cockpit ... no real existing hardware (I have to purchase) so it was relatively easy to spec size. I sketched out each and every line ... measured what I could to determine what I wanted/needed ... read as many posts as I could here and on Cruiser's Forum and Anything Sailing regarding grade and quality ... personally spoke with 2 riggers and 3 chandleries ... got quotes from Cajun Rope (good place to look and compare notes as they have premade kits id'd for many size boats) and two other places as well as searching ebay for bulk ... and in the end ... ending up purchasing at R&W Rope ... (as suggested by SailingDog somewhere here awhile ago) ... great helpful people and very competitive pricing ... You might just give them a try ... (no affliation) and yes ... do it yourself ... I'm 63 and not the most mechanically inclined ... but it sure aids in learning ... hope this helps ... John   zibadun, 900 is out of the question. And why would you feel obliged to do business with someone who didn't give you a good faith quote on work you offered him? Your request for quote shouldn't be considered "bothering him" since he should be in business to be bothered by customers and happy for it. If you are not rerouting lines on deck and needing new hardware, running rigging should cost you not much more than the cost of the line. Splicing is easy with a little practice. I had never spliced double braid until last year. I picked up a couple of books and the splicing tools needed and practiced a bit, and now can put an eye splice in a line in just a few minutes. Also learned to back splice to terminate the ends of my running rigging. You should be able to re-use your halyard shackles if you are using the same size line you currently have. It's great to be self sufficient in every area you can be, and splicing running rigging is a skill you'll be happy to have. All the best, Will   I replaced all my running rigging w/ sta set custom ordered thru west marine for about 750. My boat is a 27 catalina and this included: main halyard w/ shackle jib halyard w/ shackle main sheet jib sheet travelers headsail furling line lazy jacks topping lift w/ shackle boom vang line   also, it takes about 5 minutes to replace a halyard, assuming the new one has the shackle and you dont have to go up the mast. I used twist tie wire that i removed the plastic coating from and "sewed" both ends together. Then i finished it w/ electrical tape. Worked great. 'Cept I got lazy and didnt bother sewing the lazy jack line since the halyards went so easy. I jerked hard on the wrong end of the line by accident and it did indeed separate. I had a guy from the marina reach the block with the line, which was about 10' off the deck with a ladder.   cost me about $500 to do Main, jib ,spinnaker halyards, topping lift and spinnaker pole topping lift, all with 3/8 Sta-Set line on my Alberg 30. I of course did this myself and lit took all of a morning. This also was buying 3 new shackles. I could never afford to sail if I had to pay someone repair simple things. I think you should try and tackle it.....Should be no problem!   Sta-set is cheap. are you asking for a replacement shackle? New splice in the line? Is it parallel core? If it's a double braid then it should be something like $60-$80 for the line. 70 for the splice 50ish for the install. So at the high end, it'll be $200.   Where are you located? I do rigging on the side, and could do it for less than 1/2 with better materials.   For future reference, replacing an existing halyard is a piece of cake. Quick and cheap. It takes all of 10 minutes and $5.00 worth of supplies. 1. Go to Home Depot and buy some super 33+ electrical tape- regular tape works but this stuff is 7 mil vinyl and stretchy. 2. Cut the shackle off the old halyard. 3. Butt the old halyard head end and the new halyard tail end together, wrap a couple of turns of tape tightly around the joint. 4. Spiral wrap (with gaps) from a foot above the joint to a foot below the joint. Wrap tightly. 5. Spiral wrap as above in the opposite direction. 6. Test by pulling as hard as you can. The joint shouldn't come apart as the spiral wrap compresses when you load it. 7. Pull halyard through mast. 8. Cut the tape off and you are done. Works every time- easy and very little skill. My suggestion for your halyard would be 8MM Novabraid Syntec from R&W Rope Warehouse. $.74/foot. Lower stretch than Sta=Set X for less money. I have no affiliation with anyone in the cordage business.   To be official I checked with my rigger and he said he would figure an hour plus materials. Sta-setx is about $1.00 a foot retail, the high-tech stuff can be 3 bucks or more so unless there is more to the job than we know it should be closer to $200 than to $500 for the standard cordage based on these calculations.   I used Sampson XLS Extra T and did the main and jib sheets, main, 2 jib and spin halyards, boom lift, ie 2nd main halyard for lack of better term. Probably spent 1200-1500 including new shackles and having Fisheries in Seattle do the eye splices at about $20 per. I have a 38' mast on my 30' boat! 50-100' jib, AS sheets, do not remember the main sheet or halyard off the top of my head, will swag halyards at about 70-80', inlcuding 10' for running back to cockpit along cabin top........I did the work myself other than the eye splices! Marty   all understood about the job cost. I have pointed the rigger to this thread and he can reply, if he likes. Thanks guys so much for your help, especially for tips on how to DIY.   ?             176.3K members Top Contributors this Month Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media Media New media New comments Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe Standing rigging replacement cost Thread starter BobM Start date Jan 16, 2009 Forums for All Owners Ask All Sailors I went up the mast on a friend's runaway halyard on a C22 on the hard. The marina guy came out and said NO mast climbing on the hard. This, fortunately, was when I was done.   My .02 Go ahead and pull the stick and to it right. Get everything done that needs done while it is down. This is one area where you do not want to scrimp, or try to save a few bucks. You will be money ahead in the long run. I can tell you from experience, you do not want a stay breaking while you are sailing. And I would never go up a mast when the boat is on the hard.   1500-2000 sounds high...but it depends on the area..number of riggers avail to do the work. You can get an idea of the cost of materials from rigging.com. If someone will go up, you can take the back stay down, send it to them for an exact replacement. Typically norseman or stayloc fittings are approx $50 ea and the wire is $1+ per ft. Bob   Sorry, thats riggingonly.com in Fairhaven-in your back yard??? Bob   That's sound pretty expensive, even if they are doing the installation. I'd price it with rigging only as well... they're a good shop.   Kevin.. Kevin is great and usually very competitive, NE Rigging is who I use for just about all my rigging. He can be a little flaky but knows his stuff inside and out. It's worth the drive for me to go all the way to Concord, MA. Jay Maloney up here in Maine is good too but is much more expensive. You do not need Kevin to come and do the install so you can save some money there. Simply have the yard remove the spar and put it in supports or on saw horses. Remove each stay and mark where it came from, port upper, stbd upper, back stay etc. etc.. Remove and roll them carefully to about three foot circles and zip tie them so they don't go sproing! Put them in your trunk and drive them to Kevin in Concord, MA and he can duplicate them. Put the new ones back on where the old ones came off have the yard step the spar and you're done. It is not advisable to go up the spar on the hard and remove one of the main supports or stays. If it were your lowers that's one thing but even with a halyard run as support I would not advise it especially on the hard. you'll need to pull the stick either way..   You may want to contact Seco South in Fl. They quoted me about 1000-1200 for a 37.5 Hunter. I am sure that the Hunter has a lot more rigging than your 29 ft.'r   Maine Sail said: It is not advisable to go up the spar on the hard and remove one of the main supports or stays. Click to expand Kevin was very nice and the price, a ballpark which I hope included installation and tuning, did not seem unreasonable . They will come out and inspect and provide a solid quote no problem. I just need a solid quote from my marina on dropping and raising the mast. My gut is telling me they will be close to $500 for both ways, based on quotes I got last year down in CT when I was considering moving the boat over land. Based on past experience, I know the only way to fly is to have the originals for comparison. (I have a nice set of lowers in a slightly thicker wire size for an L25 if anyone is interested, but the Gibbs tees are wrong too.) It is just one of the unpleasantries of having a good old boat...sometimes you have to fix things when you'd rather not. After two months of weekends last year doing the drive train I'd really rather pass on a major repair this spring, but looks like I won't get a say in the matter! It is the totality of the think...not just the rigging...but knowing that I ideally should make a huge job of it while the mast is down and perhaps even paint the whole mast, rewire it, replace all the light fixtures, rewire it, check and replace the sheaves, check and repair the deck under the mast...etc...etc...etc...that is getting me down. (a) because I can't afford it and (b) just because I don't feel like spending 6-10 weekends fixng things that weren't on my list last fall and (c) I don't want to start my season the beginning of August again!   Is that price for just the backstay?? I got a new backstay last year with all fittings for my P36-2 (51 ft mast) for $400+/-   NYSail...no that is for all 8...4 uppers and 4 lowers.   Finally. Made it out to the boat. Nice and dry, but I did have to shovel snow off my cover. Here is the back stay bend I've been posting about.   Attachments Bob, why are you agonizing over this? Put it in the water, change out the backstay and go sailing. Maybe you lose a day. And if you are like me it will be a perfect day and all the guys will wave as you are up the mast and they are headed to open water. You can have the wire ready for the top. Come down and put a Norseman on the bottom after you get the length right. In the fall pull the stick and you will have all winter to get the mast and boat and rigging(if needed) right for 2010(when the markets will be great after all the bailouts).   I have heard there are no dumb questions... so I'll go ahead and ask. Why is it more dangerous to go up the mast when the boat is on the hard? It seems to me that if you fall you will hit the boat in either case.   Wow, is that dumb or what? Nah, just kididng Bob. It does almost seem that it shouldn't matter. But it has to do with the support of the boat by the poppits or cradle. All the support is too close to the centerline. At the top of the mast there is too much leverage with all that weight to port and starboard. I think that you could compensate with a couple of sturdy lines around the spreader area securely tied way out to the side. But in most yards that would mean tying it to someone else's boat. Not a good idea. Anyway why play the odds?   Hire the rigger and get it done. My friend in Fl. paid about $300 to have a stay replaced in the water.   At the moment, I am just waiting for warmer weather to get the free rigging inspection. The other thing is that it is a real waste, if I do drop the mast, to not address a number of other issues...moisture in the deck near the mast...touch up / paint the mast...fix the steaming light....the usual stuff. I'd really rather sail this season. Worst case we will put her in the water, go up the mast and do just the back-stay and perhaps replace all the closed-body turn-buckles. I have a volunteer to go up the mast. I am thinking that the bend might just have been imparted by the marina workers loosening the turnbuckle. If they couldn't get it to spin in both directions and were too stupid to realize what was happening above it would perhaps explain the damage to the stay. BobM   Bob V said: so I'll go ahead and ask. Why is it more dangerous to go up the mast when the boat is on the hard? It seems to me that if you fall you will hit the boat in either case. Click to expand This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more… BOAT OF THE YEAR Newsletters Sailboat Reviews Boating Safety Sails and Rigging Maintenance Sailing Totem Sailor & Galley Living Aboard Destinations Gear & Electronics Charter Resources Ultimate Boating Giveaway Rigging Rescue: DIY Headstay Repair and Upgrade By Ronnie Simpson Updated: July 25, 2024 Reaching out of the channel in a moderate breeze, Quiver leaned on her big, overlapping genoa and accelerated up to hull speed. Surrounded by a fleet of vessels of similar speed, we had managed a clean and conservative start to our first Friday night beer-can race on my new-to-me cruising yacht. The headsail was eased and furled slightly before we reached the final red channel marker. As I turned up, the mainsail was trimmed in and the now-smaller jib sheeted home. Quiver powered up, heeled over and took off upwind. The Doug Peterson-designed 34-footer was clearly in her element when going uphill, and I looked forward to working our way through the fleet on the long port-tack beat toward Oahu’s Diamond Head . Mere seconds after going hard on the wind, there was a loud bang. And then the headstay went slack. Without enough time to contemplate whether the mast was going to stay upright, I quickly evaluated the situation and decided to turn up into the wind instead of bearing away to a run. Once in irons, I handed off the helm and ran two spinnaker halyards forward to help secure the mast. Amazingly, we were still able to furl the jib. Motorsailing back to the dock with just a mainsail up, I played every possible scenario through in my head, unable to diagnose exactly what had happened or what had broken. Back at the dock, there was ample daylight left to pull the headstay and furler down to investigate — much more easily done with the presence of a few friends. At first, nothing appeared to be broken at the bottom or the top, making it that much more confusing as to what had failed. Once I pulled the furler drum apart, however, I quickly found the smoking gun. The toggle at the bottom of the headstay, which connects to another toggle and effectively lives inside of the furler, was extremely corroded and had failed catastrophically. Fortunately for me and the boat, which I had purchased just five days earlier, the failed toggle could not fit through the furler’s aluminum foil; that was all that kept the headstay from physically separating and the boat potentially dismasting. The entire experience was a shocker, to say the least. I had sailed the boat on a sea trial with the previous owner as part of the purchase. In 20 knots of trade-wind breeze, we sailed into the channel all powered up, with a reef in the main and a partial jib, with not a care in the world. Back at the dock, I had a friend help crank me aloft to complete a rig inspection, something that was very common for me to do in my years of working as a professional yacht rigger and as crew and preparateur on high-end racing yachts in the San Francisco Bay area. When all looked satisfactory up the rig, I bought the boat for $10,000 cash and sailed her back to Waikiki that day. Five short days and a couple more daysails later, the one rigging component that was out of sight during my visual inspection nearly brought the entire rig crashing down on my first Friday race with the boat. Following the old handyman’s adage of “measure twice, cut once,” my helpers, Mike and Kristen, and I all took great care to get the measurements right before placing our order for new rigging. After a trip to the chandlery and an afternoon work session with a friend, I had the blown-apart toggle replaced with a shiny new one, making the boat, in theory at least, perfectly sailable. Without fully knowing how old the standing rigging was, however, I decided that now was the time to fully rerig Quiver . I had planned on doing this before I did any serious sailing with the boat, but after our early mishap, this expensive yet basic maintenance project took on a new urgency. While rerigging the boat, I would also inspect the chainplates and make sure that all was structurally sound with them. I had dismasted a boat before, and as much fun as my time fixing that boat had been, I sincerely didn’t need to dismast another. First things first: I needed to measure the rig for new stays, so I grabbed my mast-climbing gear and got right to work (see “Going Up,” at the end of this article). As I headed aloft, I took a minimum of tools and cranked myself up the mast, taking the butt end of a 100-foot tape measure with me. With a helper at the bottom, I held the zero mark on the tape measure tightly against the center of the clevis pin at the top of each shroud (depending on how your stays are attached to the mast, look for the center of the load-bearing point at the top). Standing on deck with the spool end of the tape measure, my helper pulled the tape tight and measured to the center of the clevis pin at deck level. Once he called out a measurement to me, we would take our respective ends of the tape off of the shrouds and then measure again. Once we were confident that we had it measured as accurately as possible — down to one-twentieth of an inch — we recorded the measurement and moved on to the next. In some cases where there were slight differences between port and starboard (only a couple tenths or a half inch) we just averaged the two sides and took that as our measurement for the new shrouds. Following the old handyman’s adage of “measure twice, cut once,” my helpers, Mike and Kristen, and I all took great care to get the measurements right before placing our rigging order. Getting boat parts and work done in Hawaii can often be a challenge because there are fewer marine facilities and resources in the islands than there are on the mainland, and everything is an expensive and slow ship or plane ride away. As a result, a bit of resourcefulness is always of benefit when cruising or living in a remote place. In my case, the resourcefulness was measuring the rig myself and ordering all of the parts from an outfit that I knew could fill the order in a timely fashion, give me great service and get me better deals on parts than I could achieve locally. I called up my old friend Logan at Rigworks in San Diego. He was pumped to get the opportunity to help out and got right back to me with an invoice, all ­done up with some good-guy pricing. Everything was in stock, and they could have my shiny new rigging to me in a week. Perfect. Comparing apples to apples, it’s interesting to note that the rigging for my Peterson 34 was right at about double what it was for my Cal 27 and Cal 29, owing to the nature in which boats get exponentially more expensive as they get larger. With the rigging on the way, I needed to have two chainplates made locally. The smallest chainplates on the boat, for the forward lower shrouds, needed replacing as the starboard one had a crack in it. My quickest and most convenient option ended up being a general machine shop located in an industrial zone in an alley in Honolulu. Ed Dang Machine Works custom ordered 316 stainless-steel stock and, using the originals as patterns, built two custom chainplates and backing plates for a reasonable price. Built in the afternoon on a Friday, they came out a bit off and had to be remade. The machinist fully owned up to his mistake, apologized for the inconvenience and remade the chainplates the same day, for the original price, which was greatly appreciated because I was on a mission to get Quiver back on the water on time and on budget. Installing the new chainplates, backing plates and cover plates was straight­forward and simple. I also made a point to pull a couple of other chainplates out for visual inspections. Like the headstay’s lower toggle failure that easily could have dismasted the boat, it’s usually the hidden part of a chainplate, where it passes through the deck, that poses the biggest potential risk. Corrosion can develop there because of a lack of oxygen, causing the metal to fail. Once the new rigging arrived, it was merely a job of installing nine shrouds one by one and then tackling the hardest, the headstay, last. Slacking off all four lower shrouds before going aloft, I cranked myself up to the first of the two sets of spreaders and locked off my block-and-tackle harness with a double slipknot. Carefully unpinning one shroud at a time, I tied a tag line through the marine eye fitting and slowly lowered each shroud down to my helper, who would then remove the old wire and tie on the new one. Pulling the new shroud into place and then untying it from the tag line, I could then pin each shroud to the mast. Carefully unpinning one shroud at a time, I tied a tag line through the marine eye fitting and slowly lowered each shroud down to my helper, who would then remove the old wire and tie on the new one. Pulling the new shroud into place and then untying it from the tag line, I could then pin each shroud to the mast. Installing the new shrouds with the rig up, in the slip, is a surprisingly easy job, especially when you have competent help and no major hiccups. With proper techniques and a thoroughly planned, safety-first approach, it is well within the scope of many cruising sailors to measure, remove, replace and potentially repair their own rigging. A few weeks and a few thousand dollars after nearly dismasting, Quiver sailed out of the same channel, hung a left at the last red marker and turned hard on the wind again. The drama of headstay ­failure was over. With the nine new shrouds in place, it was time to move on to the headstay, which would be by far the most difficult and laborious task. Tying an 1⁄8-inch Dyneema messenger line around a rigging component at the top of the headstay and then securing it to the masthead, I ensured that I could not drop the headstay while unpinning it, which was critical because the headstay weighs so much more than any other shroud due to the furling unit and its aluminum foil extrusion. After unpinning and lowering the entire unit to the dock, we chopped off the swageless eye fitting at the top. There are methods of splicing an old headstay to a new one to help pull the new headstay in place, but with a foil that looked fairly large and easy to work with, we just pulled out the old wire and fed the new one up the foil, jiggling it around each time it got stuck at a joint between two sections. With the new headstay now in place, I measured it and used a hacksaw to cut it to the proper length. Next, I picked apart the strands and carefully installed a Hayn Hi-Mod swageless fitting, making sure to use anti-corrosion Tef-Gel where needed. Once everything was ready, I went back aloft, pulled up the new headstay and pinned it back in place. It wasn’t exceptionally easy to pull the shroud up and install it while 50 feet in the air, but again, with a thoroughly planned, safety-first approach, it was quite a manageable task. Though I still plan to pull the mast and give it a thorough overhaul before any long-distance cruising, Quiver now has brand-new standing rigging and a couple of new chainplates. A few weeks and a few thousand dollars after nearly dismasting my new vessel, I sailed Quiver out of the same channel, hung a left at the last red marker and turned hard on the wind again. The drama of headstay failure was replaced with the sheer pleasure of sailing a good and powerful 34-foot tiller boat upwind. Over the next 19 hours, the breeze eventually went light, and died altogether a couple of times, but my thrown-together crew of four sailed to Lahaina, on the island of Maui, for Quiver ‘s maiden voyage with the upgraded rig. Power-reaching into Lahaina at 0100 with a stiff offshore breeze, I had my first epic bit of night-sailing on the boat. I had sailed to Maui to attend my close friend “Uncle” Tony’s wedding. He had sailed his previous Kaufman 47 Knot Tide Down to New Zealand from Hawaii, alongside my old Cal 2-27 Mongo. The night before the wedding, Quiver served up a picture-perfect sunset whale-watching tour for the bride and groom and some of their close friends, complete with numerous humpback sightings. It was a fond new memory to add to my collection from the past. While I still have many more projects to complete before taking off on my first long bluewater cruise aboard the 34-footer, the unfortunate gear failure just after purchasing Quiver turned into a valuable experience that signaled the beginning of another good old boat’s resurrection. Quiver was already in better nick than she had been in years, and the dream of voyaging to distant lands was well and truly back alive after months of boatlessness. After a ripping sail home to Oahu via the north shore of Molokai, Quiver had proved herself. Only one question still remained: Where on earth will you take me, boat? Going Up: Ascending a Mast Before working on any mast — unless it’s a crewed race boat with lots of muscle to haul me aloft — I much prefer to assemble my own rig-ascending setup as opposed to being dependent on a helper to help crank me up and down the spar. To do this, I use my bowman’s harness, which is essentially just a rock-climbing harness, and attach a block and tackle to it. I use a 3-to-1 purchase, meaning that I need roughly four times as much rope as the mast is long. In the case of Quiver, that meant buying about 200 feet of 5⁄16-inch double-braid polyester line. A 4-to-1 purchase is also quite useful; it merely costs and weighs a bit more, along with the additional rope required. There are many other ways to ascend a mast, but for performing work aloft by one’s self or pulling rigging jobs on the side, the block and tackle attached to a harness or bosun’s chair is my preferred method. Once I reach the desired height, I use a double slipknot to secure myself in place. Ronnie Simpson, a frequent CW contributor, is a sailor and writer living in Honolulu while he pursues a degree in integrated multi­media at Hawaii Pacific University. He is the co-founder of a wounded veterans sailing nonprofit . More: DIY Sailboat Projects , How To , repairs More How To Grease the Wheels of Your Boat: A Guide to Proper Lubrication A Bowsprit Reborn: A DIY Renovation Story Rigging Redo: Our Switch to Synthetic Top Tools for Sailboat Cruising: Must-Have Gear for 2024 Galápagos: A Paradise Worth the Paperwork Around Alone Digital Edition Customer Service Privacy Policy Terms of Use Email Newsletters Cruising World Sailing World Salt Water Sportsman Sport Fishing Wakeboarding High School and College Sailors - 15% Off Apparel & Accessories - LEARN MORE Call Us +1-503-285-5536 Sign in & Register Recently Viewed Guides & Advice Rigging Guides Not sure how to rig your boat or looking to brush up on a certain part of your rigging? 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How Much Sailboats Cost On Average (380+ Prices Compared) Turns out that owning a sailboat is pretty affordable. OK, it isn't cheap, but it can absolutely be done on a budget. In this article, I'll show you exactly what to expect. Sure, super yachts are expensive, but so is everything super (except for maybe supermarkets). But a modest, used sailboat can be as cheap as $2,500 and an additional $1,400 per year. It may come as a surprise to you that you can get a decent sailboat for as little as $1,500 on Craigslist. Average sailboat costs at a glance We've compared thousands of listings, so you don't have to. If you just want the ballpark figures, here they are: Situation One-Time Cost Monthly Cost Average sailboat for most people (26') $25,000 $470 Low budget project (22') $2,500 $115 Budget ocean cruiser (35') $38,000 $450 Best-value ocean cruiser (40') $166,000 $1,300 The average price of new sailboats is $425,000 ($127,000 to $821,000). The average price of used sailboats is $278,000 ($67,000 to $555,000). Maintenance costs are on average $2,000 - $3,000 per year, and the average total annual cost is $3,000 to $7,000. Of course the price of a sailboat depends on our choices. We decide whether sailing is a rich man's game, or actually a very good holiday investment. (It beats driving to a bungalow park for sure - both cost-wise and the experience itself.) How Much To Charter a Superyacht? (Less Than You Think) Why you should trust us These figures are based on our latest research which was last updated September 26th 2023 . We do this research every year, giving us very accurate numbers and clear insight into the trend of sailboat prices. We've literally compared thousands of sailboat listings over the years, and we've done so methodically. The research is done by our researcher Tay, who is an engineer by trade. This will be a long article because there are so many aspects to cover. I'd like to spend some time exploring the costs of actually buying the boat. Then I want to go into recurring costs , like mooring, maintenance, and insurance. To really drive home what you're getting into , I'll give four real-life examples. These examples include every expense as a separate line-item. And we'll go over them line-by-line together. Then I'll share our exact research results with you . This will include all our numbers: new vs. used, average price per foot, and much more. These are extremely detailed numbers (you don't have to read this if you don't want to). At the end of the article, we'll discuss why a boat doesn't just cost money: she can actually make you some if you wanted. A used family week-ender with a small cabin will cost roughly $30,000 (all-in for the first year). If you dream of sailing around the world, expect to spend around $100,000. New sailboats on average cost twice as much as used boats. Maintenance cost are 5-10% of the boat's value per year. Docking costs are roughly $800 - $2,500 per year. Sailboat prices have gone up 30% this year. On this page: Average sailboat cost: 2023 summary, examples of popular sailboats, and how much they cost, what does it cost to buy a sailboat, what does it cost to own a sailboat, make or save some money, related questions. Before we really get into it, I first want to give you the quick rundown. So I've summarized our research for you. Buying a sailboat Sailboat size New price Used price Craigslist Small $75,000 $41,500 $11,000 Medium $400,000 $261,750 $87,000 Large $3.9M $1.9M - Small boats are up to 30 foot long . They'll be very capable and great for solo sailors or small families who want to go on day trips, or short week-end trips on inland waters. Some of them will have cabins and sleeping quarters, although small. Medium boats are between 30 and 50 foot long . They'll host larger parties and will be more suited for longer trips, coastal sailing, or even bluewater cruising. Sailboat length isn't necessarily the most important feature for that, though. Large boats are 50 foot and up . This is proper yacht territory, and they'll be a lot more luxurious, and also exponentially more expensive. If you buy via a broker, you typically get more reliable boats, but also pay more. If you buy off of Craigslist, you get a fat discount, but there are more lemons on there too. You could hire a boat surveyor who will inspect the boat before you buy it (much like when you buy a house). Those surveys are not very expensive and can be worth your money. Owning a sailboat There are a lot of costs involved with simply owning a boat. The biggest expenses will be docking and maintenance. Those two alone will account for roughly 80% of your yearly expenses. Maintenance : 5-10% of the boat's value Docking : $800-$2,500 per year on average, depeding on location Sailboat size Small Medium Large Maintenance $1,500 $9,000 $50,000 Docking $1,000 $2,000 $5,000+ Other $1,000 $4,000 $10,000 If we want to know what we're getting ourselves into, we should know every expense to the dot. Below, we'll go over four very different case studies. I'm hoping one of these will relate to your specific situation. It'll show you what to expect and how to budget for your purchase. The four sailboat case studies What does it cost if you want to keep your boat in good shape and have a good sailing experience? - aka: most people What does it cost if you ONLY spend the absolute minimum amount to keep her floating? If I want to sail the world on a budget, what's the absolute minimum? If sailing is more of a status thing to you, how much money COULD you spend? Model Price class One-time cost Monthly cost Island Packet 26' medium $25,000 $470 Catalina 22' low budget $2,500 $115 Ocean cruiser 35' low budget $38,000 $450 Luxury yacht 40' expensive $166,000 $1,300 There are a lot of great boats out there for a good price and there are also some boats that are so expensive (or so cheap), it's not even fun to look at them. But one thing's for sure: there are plenty of boats available, and even if you're on a very tight budget, you could absolutely still make it work. Sailing in and of itself is actually not that expensive: wind is free, water is free, boats can be cheap - if you're willing to look around a bit. It's all the little extras that add up quickly. Listed below are 4 boats that make great beginner boats. Since more than 80% of all boats that are bought are second-hand, I'll use the prices of used boats I found on Craigslist. If you want to know exactly where the numbers come from, don't worry, I'll explain them after the 4 examples. 1. Island Packet 26' for stressless weekends on the lake The one-time costs are $24,860 Your total recurring costs are $5,650 per year, or $471 per month Let's say you're like me and most other people and just want a nice boat without too much hassle. So you pay people for complex maintenance. You do the required maintenance and save up for future repairs. You do a little yourself, which saves you a couple of hundred of bucks a year. You also join a (cheap) sailing club to learn how to not trash the boat. You get the right trailer, and you save up some money for future repairs. You don't want to buy a bad boat, so you pay a fair purchase price One-Time Costs: $20,000 at $10/ft $260 at 5% $1,600 $1,000 $1,000 Recurring Costs: at $15/ft $400 $300 $2,000 $150 $2,000 $800 varies 2. Extreme Low Budget Catalina 22' Ok, I'm very interested in how cheap you could actually go (in theory). Is it do-able to buy a very cheap sailboat and just keep her afloat, never change sails, and only pay for maintenance that is absolutely necessary to not sink? In this scenario, I don't care about speed, so I don't change sails. I certainly won't join a sailing club, and I try to save some money on the marina by boondocking. I also happen to live in a cheap state registration and tax-wise. Docking costs can get out of hand For an average sailboat, depending on your area and wishes, up to $5,000/year . Read everything about docking costs I try to pay as little as possible for the boat itself (and I've actually found a Catalina 22 for $2,250 on Craigslist today!). I don't save up for rigging and hardware (tomorrows' worries). I try to get an extra 2 years out of my bottom paint and I only do the essential repairs, and I do them myself. But because I saved so much on the purchase, this little boat needs a lot of maintenance. Luckily, I have time on my hands and know my way around engines and rigging, so I do all of it myself (with the help of YouTube). I don't bother with winterizing my boat, I'll just sail somewhere warm. Oh, and I'll use the engine as little as possible to save on gas. Will your boat be happy? Definitely not, but your wallet will be (for now). Can it be done? It's optimistic, but yes, I think it can be done. But you have to be mechanically inclined, and pretty creative. The one-time costs are $2,428 Your total recurring costs are $1,380 per year, or $115 per month $2,250 at $5/ft $110 at 3% $68 Recurring Costs Recurring Costs: at $5/ft $130 $150 $1,000 $100 varies 3. Low Budget 35' Ocean Cruiser for traveling the world If you dream of crossing oceans, you need a comfortable ride. Usually, most sailors pick a boat that's between 32' - 50' for two person ocean cruising. Anything under 32' gets pretty uncomfortable in high waves, although it can be done. But this is also the range that gets expensive - quickly . So if we're on a tight budget, but also need a good and reliable boat: how much will it cost? The boat will cost you $35,000. For this price, I've seen a beautiful 1983 wooden cutter (by Robert Tucker), multiple Beneteau Oceanis from '88 - '89, multiple Bavarias ... plenty of solid choices on the second-hand market here. In this example, you don't join any sailing clubs (I assume you're pretty experienced if you want to cross oceans). You also don't winterize (you're sailing the Caribbean by now). No trailer, as you won't haul it out of the water any time soon. You do pay a fair price for the boat because you don't want any surprises during your Tour du Monde. In need of a lot of bottom paint , since you're in saltwater most of the time. It's also a good idea to invest in at least SOME navigation equipment, so for $500 I've added a simple but capable GPS chartplotter and compass. You can get a cheap but reliable chartplotter and compass for less than $500 - in total. If you want to learn more, head over to the recommended gear section . The one-time costs are $37,590 Your total recurring costs are $5,425 per year, or $452 per month $35,000 at $10/ft $340 at 5% $1,750 $500 at $15/ft $800 $525 $3,500 $500 $100 varies 4. Powerful 40' Yacht (and everything that goes with it) Let's say you're in the game for the fame. What does it cost me to own a grande yacht with all luxuries (and costs) that go with it? I join an expensive sailing club, hire pros that maintain the thing beautifully, and I also pay for winterization, the best trailer I can find. I replace my sails and running rigging every 5 years - since speed matters to me. Because she's my pride, I paint her every year. I spend an additional 500 bucks a year on special soaps and waxes. I want a prime mooring location, so I pay a premium. I also get a small boat to hang from the large boat, to get to shore more quickly. The one-time costs are $166,400 Your total recurring costs are $15,150 per year, or $1,263 per month $150,000 $1,500 $400 $7,500 $2,000 $4,000 $2,500 at $50/ft $2,000 $2,250 $5,000 $300 $100 $4,000 $1,500 varies There are a couple of important factors that determine how much money you end up spending. Size - length determines mooring costs, insurance, amount of paint on your hull, literally everything gets more expensive with every foot of length New vs. used - of course, it makes all the difference whether you buy new or used. Typically, the price of a 25-year old used sailboat vs. a comparable new one is 3-4 times lower ($60,000 vs $200,000). With used sailboats, I find that the price generally increases rapidly from 30 feet onwards It's the same with new sailboats - or actually, it keeps increasing with every extra couple of feet. The reason is that as the boat gets bigger, it also gets more luxurious (upholstery, finishing, equipment). The average price of a new sailboat per foot in USD: under 30 ft: $3,217 per ft 30 - 50 ft: $7,625 - $11,128 ft over 50 ft: $14,927 - $78,033 per ft On average, second-hand sailboats go at 1/3 - 1/4 of the cost of a new boat: under 30 ft: $1,773 per ft 30 - 50 ft: $6,473 per ft over 50 ft: $10,091 - $36,889 per ft If this is too much for you, you could always rent a boat instead. I recommend chartering. You can get great sailboats at great prices. Check out my charter recommendation here . Cost of buying a sailboat Price of new sailboats. I've looked at the prices of thousands of yachts (really) on one of the largest yacht marketplaces in the world (- not manually, don't worry: with the help of their search function). This is what I came up with: Length Range Low Average High 15-19ft $26,000 $30,000 $34,000 20-24ft $54,000 $70,000 $84,000 25-29ft $104,000 $127,000 $160,000 30-34ft $162,000 $244,000 $320,000 35-39ft $219,000 $371,000 $520,000 40-44ft $260,000 $464,000 $643,000 45-49ft $355,000 $523,000 $658,000 50-60ft $578,000 $821,000 $1,146,000 80-100ft $5,799,00 $7,023,000 $8,248,000 Source: Yachtworld.com Q3 2023 The price of new sailboats ranges from roughly $1,765 - $78,033 per foot. I've used these numbers to calculate the following list: Prices per foot in USD Here's the detailed price per foot for all lengths from 20 to 100 feet: Length Range Per Foot 15-19ft $1,765 20-24ft $3,182 25-29ft $4,704 30-34ft $7,625 35-39ft $10,027 40-44ft $11,048 45-49ft $11,128 50-60ft $14,827 80-100ft $78,033 Price of used sailboats We did the same for used sailboats, comparing thousands of listings. Here are the complete data: Length Range Low Average High 15-19ft $6,000 $15,000 $26,000 20-24ft $7,000 $43,000 $79,000 25-29ft $8,000 $67,000 $146,000 30-34ft $10,000 $136,000 $294,000 35-39ft $16,000 $253,000 $512,000 40-44ft $24,000 $318,000 $638,000 45-49ft $41,000 $340,000 $656,000 50-60ft $66,000 $555,000 $1,128,000 80-100ft $487,000 $3,320,000 $6,514,000 Source: Yachtworld Q3 2023 The price of used sailboats ranges from roughly $882-$36,889 per foot . Here's the detailed price per foot for all lengths from 20 to 100 feet: Length Range Per Foot 15-19ft $882 20-24ft $1,955 25-29ft $2,481 30-34ft $4,250 35-39ft $6,838 40-44ft $7,571 45-49ft $7,234 50-60ft $10,091 80-100ft $36,889 Prices on Craigslist The price of used sailboats ranges from roughly $476-$2,098 per foot. To get an average of the price of a used sailboat, I went over to Craigslist. I took the first 20 relevant search results for sailboats under, and over 30 feet. Of course, the averages here are very speculative, as prices vary from day to day. But it gives a broad range of what to expect. Over 50 feet, listings become meagre. I believe people tend to not place their 80-ft sailboats on Craigslist, but sell it through a broker instead. Median Craigslist price of a used sailboat: under 30 ft: $11,065 over 30 ft: $87,020 I've calculated the median price , not the average. The median is the price that's most common within the price range. This way the highest and lowest prices don't have as much impact. Average Craigslist price-per-foot of a used sailboat: under 30 ft: $476 per ft over 30 ft: $2,098 per ft This is what I found on Craigslist under 30 feet: Washington dc. Boat Year Length (ft) Price (USD) Macgregor 26x 1997 26 $16,500 Columbia 26 Mark II 1972 26 $7,000 Sabre Mk 1 1975 28 $4,500 Hobie Mirage Tandem Island 2018 18 $2,999 Source: Craigslist Washington DC Q3 2023 Los Angeles Boat Year Length (ft) Price (USD) Catalina 22 MKII 2001 22 $17,000 Ericson 26-2 1985 26 $15,500 Beneteau 28 1982 28 $15,000 Catalina 27 1972 28 $13,500 Source: Craigslist Los Angeles Q3 2023 Boat Year Length (ft) Price (USD) BWC Flying Cruiser 2002 18 $12,000 Catalina/Capri 22 2007 22 $11,000 Hunter 1994 24 $9,000 Hunter 27 1980 27 $7,500 Source: Craigslist Houston Q3 2023 South Florida Boat Year Length (ft) Price (USD) MacGregor 26x 1997 26 $14,995 Laser Bahia 2023 15 $12,500 Beneteau 235 1987 23 $12,000 Watkins 27 1991 27 $9,900 Source: Craigslist Miami Q3 2023 Boat Year Length (ft) Price (USD) Freedom 29 1985 29 $10,500 RS Sailing Quest 2022 15 $10,000 Hunter 27 1983 27 $10,000 Islander Excaliber 1969 26 $9,900 Source: Craigslist New York Q3 2023 Here's what I found for 30 feet and up: Boat Year Length (ft) Price (USD) Kong & Halvorsen 48 Dawn 1985 48 $139,900 Beneteau Oceanis 2011 49 $129,000 Wellington 57ms 1989 57 $150,000 Ted Brewer 12.8 Cutter 1983 42 $89,000 Boat Year Length (ft) Price (USD) Hunter 460 2000 46 $127,900 Hunter 1995 43 $95,000 Marine Technologies Ketch 1979 48 $89,500 Gemini 105 mc 2001 34 $84,500 Boat Year Length (ft) Price (USD) Whitby 42 1983 42 $84,900 Gemini 105M 1998 35 $70,000 Island Packet IP-31 1984 34 $35,900 Condor 30 1989 30 $32,900 Boat Year Length (ft) Price (USD) Beneteau 423 Oceanis 2005 43 $139,000 Beneteau 2008 43 $134,900 Gemini 105mc 2001 34 $105,000 Catalina 34 MkII 2003 35 $85,999 Boat Year Length (ft) Price (USD) Hunter 340 1999 34 $59,500 Jouet 1985 37 $50,000 Catalina 36 1984 36 $22,000 Pearson 303 1985 30 $15,500 Sailboat price development Compared to our 2022 research, the median price of new sailboats has gone up 22.5% (from $251,000 to $307,500). The average price has gone up 33.6% (from $248,000 to $331,250). The average price of used sailboats under 30 ft on Craigslist has gone up 30% (from $8,500 to $11,000). Sailboat prices research archive You can check our earlier research data here: 2022 average sailboat price data 2019 average sailboat price data Catamarans are 60% more expensive If you dream of owning a catamaran, you should expect to pay roughly 60% more for the boat, and 60% more on annual cost like upkeep and mooring. There are exceptions, of course, and for some boat lengths, new catamarans may be slightly more affordable than a monohull. I've researched thousands of catamaran listings as well to come up with those numbers. The exact numbers are summarized in my guide on the average cost of buying and owning a catamaran. It's very similar to this article, so if you like this and are curious about catamaran prices as well, I encourage you to check it out. Average Cost of Buying & Owning a Catamaran (With 4 Examples) So let's take a quick look at the costs for owning a sailboat. One-time costs: Registration : costs of registration differ per state, but usually run anywhere from $3 - $10 per foot. Taxes : differs per state and country. Most governments want you to pay property tax and sales tax. Sales tax is usually about 5%. Property tax varies and is more complex, so I'll leave that up to you to figure out. Trailer : $1,000 Sailing club initiation fee : $1,500 - $4,000 Recurring costs: Mooring : $10-15 per foot per year (can be much higher for prime locations) Insurance : typically 1.5% of the total value of the boat. So a $50,000 26' cruiser will cost 750 bucks. Maintenance : a good rule of thumb is 10% of the boat value. Expect to spend anywhere between $500 - $2,500 per year for small to mid-sized boats. Fuel : depends on how much you use the boat and the engine, but on average something between $100 - $150. - Find out how much fuel a sailboat uses in my article here (opens in new tab). International License : if you want to sail on international waters, you have to get your ICC (International Certificate of Competence ). Plan on spending anywhere between 400 to 500 dollars. Safety equipment : plan on spending anywhere between 150 to 600 bucks for lifejackets, first aid kit, and distress signals. Winterize boat : $2,000 Sailing club: $800 - $1,500 Cost of owning a boat Maintenance Part Replace every Cost Engine 20 years $5,000 Standing rigging 10 years $4,000 Running rigging 5-10 years $5,000 Sails 5-10 years $2,000 - $5,000 Safety equipment 10 years $500 Batteries 4-6 years $600 Deck hardware 20-30 years $1,500 Bottom paint 2 years $500 Your average maintenance cost will be roughly $144 dollars per month for boats under 30', or just under $2,000 per year. Maintenance involves a lot of hidden costs We took an in-depth look at everything . The result is a comprehensive article that lays it all out for new boat owners. Read all about maintenance costs Gas engines run for about 1,500 hours, diesel engines run for 5,000. After that, you'll need to change them out. Most engines will last you about 20 years. A standard 15HP or 20HP outboard gas engine will cost you about $5,000 - $6,000 and needs replacing every 20 years or so. If you do the work yourself, it's more something like $1,000 - $1,500. A smaller engine uses less fuel, reducing your total cost You can actually use a pretty small engine for most sailboats. To learn how small (and efficient) you can go, I've written a guide on how to calculate it yourself. Read all about outboard engine size Replacing the sails and rigging Most people that own a sailboat will have to replace the sails and rigging at least once in their lifetime. Replacing the mast is uncommon, but if you're unlucky and get demasted, it will need to be fixed. So I've added it to the "be aware this might happen" list - but won't add it to the monthly recurring costs. If you need to replace the mast and boom, prepare to spend anywhere between $15,000 - $25,000. I won't go into detail, but I have written a long article about the cost of new sails (opens in new tab). It's a really helpful post (with a formula) if you want to know what to expect. Good quality cruising sails will need to be replaced every 10 years or so. The cost of new sails is on average: 26' Bermuda Sloop rig will cost you about $1,000 - $2,500. 34' Bermuda Sloop rig will cost you about $3,000 - $5,000. The cost of the new rigging is on average: Standing rigging - every 10 years at $4,000 Running rigging - every 5-10 years at $5,000 Bottom Paint Your boat will need bottom paint roughly every 2 years (could be longer, but to be safe, let's keep it at two). It's also called antifouling paint because it helps to protect your hull from weeds, barnacles, and so on. Barnacles can slice through your boat's bellow! So you don't want them on there. On average, it costs about $15 to $20 per foot to get your sailboat hull painted professionally. For a 26' sailboat, that's just 500 bucks. Money well spent. Replacing safety equipment USCG safety regulations require you to replace safety gear regularly. Lifejackets have to be replaced every 10 years. Flares have to be replaced every 42 months. You could consider buying a LED electric distress light instead, which will last you a lifetime. If you carry a life-raft you'll need to replace that every 12 years as well. Adhering to the minimum safety requirements shouldn't cost you more than 150 - 250 dollars every 5 years. But if you want the good stuff, need more fire extinguishers, plan on spending more like $600. If you want a life raft, that's another $1,500. To avoid you have to go cheap on your safety gear, I've put it in the budget for $500. If you want to know exactly what the USCG safety requirements are, including checklists , definitely check out my article here. Winterizing your boat Winterization is an often overlooked cost, but it can be one of the largest expenses each year. If you're like me, and not so lucky to live in Florida, you need to winterize your boat. Failing to winterize it will increase your maintenance cost over time, as the engine wears out more quickly, and your plumbing and equipment will fall apart. Winter storms and ice can damage the hull and mast as well. Learn all about the dangers of failing to winterize here . It's the best way to protect your boat in wintertime, period. It consists of two parts: Winterizing - costs $500 to $1000 - This is the preparation for winter storage. You flush the cooling system with anti-freeze, and the boat gets wrapped in a shrink wrap cover. Winter storage - costs $50 per ft on average Some other maintenance costs: Batteries: deep cycle batteries need replacing every 4-6 years at $600 Deck hardware: every 20-30 years (bullseyes, tiller, eye straps) at $1,500 Joining a Sailing Club If you're new to sailing, you might want to consider joining a sailboat club. This might help you to get tips, make friends, and learn in a safe environment. Most clubs also organize races, which are a great way to quickly improve your sailing skills. But it comes at a cost. Sailing clubs are very expensive. Initiation fees range anywhere between $1,000 - $4,000. But that's not all. Then there's an annual fee of $500 - $1,000 per year. And lot's of additional fees: for dining, lockers, etc. If you're willing to skip Christmas, go for it. How about making up for some of those losses? There's just no better feeling than earning back all that cash with the same thing that you've spent it on in the first place. There are lot's of ways to earn a little extra with your boat - if you're willing to put in the effort. Here are a few ideas: hire yourself out as the captain of a personalized cruise (for families, newly-weds, groups of colleagues) take people to go fishing hire your boat out to yacht charter companies teach someone to sail take photographers, film crews, and artists on tours organize dolphin and whale watching tours delivery of cargo - some places just can't be reached by car, for example, the city center of Giethoorn (Dutch Venice). So you have a competitive edge here! Some ideas to save money: install solar panels (no more dock power) buy a and cheap small boat (kayak or someting) to get to offshore anchorage (which are cheaper) shop around for insurance get gas at the gas station, not the marina do your own maintenance as much as possible find a friend with water access to avoid mooring use it a lot (prevents stuff from breaking) fix things that are broken immediately keep your sails out of the sun do your own upgrades For example, convert your winches to self-tailing yourself. I was really surprised by how cheaply this can be done yourself. Read my article on how to do it here (opens in new tab). How much does it cost to paint a boat hull? Painting a boat hull with antifouling paint will usually cost between $15 - $20 per feet. For example, a 25-foot sailboat will cost roughly $500. A 35-foot sailboat will cost $800 to repaint. You can get premium paints and services, which can quadruple the cost. Typically, a boat needs to be repainted every two years. Why are used sailboats so cheap? Sailboats require a lot of skill and patience. They can be quite expensive to maintain and to keep in slip. Some people find they can't afford the marina rent, upkeep, and other costs; sometimes they simply don't want to; others don't want to sail anymore. In some cases, expensive and important parts are missing. How much does it cost to charter a sailboat? The price of a charter depends on location, size of the vessel, crew or bareboat chartering, and so on. However, on average, a bareboat yacht charter will cost anywhere from $5,000 - $10,000 per week. Crewed charters cost anywhere between $10,000 - $15,000 per week. Superyachts may cost up to $150,000 per week. Thanks to Jean-Pierre Bazard for letting me use his wrapped boat photo under CC BY-SA 3.0 Excellent write up. This is honestly the type of information that’s hard to find as you’re trying to get into sailing. I’m a car guy. People think of car collecting like Jay Leno, but it can be done cheaply. I get the impression sailing is the same way. Shawn Buckles Hi Stephen, thanks a lot for your kind words, really appreciate it! It really is kind of the same, it’s all about how much time and effort you’re willing to put in. As with anything, lots can be achieved with energy and attention. Thanks again. Serious question. Why are you buying a trailer for a 40 ft yacht? That doesn’t even make sense. Hi Christian, thanks for the remark. 40 ft boat trailers do actually exist, although I agree that most people probably won’t trailer a 40 ft yacht. Thank a lot for the very useful information„ now you caused me to start thinking why don’t I start sailing lessons to do round the world in a sail boat ( instead of an aircraft) Hello Hatem, you’re very welcome. Smooth sailing, or flying. Hi, I am not familiar with boats. My boss just asked me to find a nice boat for him. Thank you for this informative post, this helps me so much. By the way, I already found a site selling yachts here in the Philippines, here’s the link https://rayomarine.com Do you have any suggestion with brand and boat type. Thank you! More power! Very good information, but I am having a hard time matching these number here in Southern California. Cheapest slip I found so for is $375/month, on a very run down and far from the ocean marina. At the harbor that I want, the cheapest I found is $800/month. Even if I was given a boat for free, just keeping it in place would cost me almost 10k/year Excellent writeup, Shawn! Thank you very much for all your hard work and I look forward to reading your other articles on the subject. Great info! We are in the market for our first sailboat and this answered many of our questions. Although I do agree with Rafael that slip prices in Southern California our much higher than what you listed. The marina we like will run about $1000 a month. Thank you for your artical…a LOT of useful information included in it sir. I have been thinking about buying one for two years now, since I moved to a harbor town near where I grew up. We always had motor boats when I was young. But, I always loved sailing MUCH much more! I love the quiet of it, and always something to do, rather than just sit, drive, gas it up, dock, repeat. Laugh!! It’s about a ten min walk to the marina from here..and I have nothing but time. However my health is pretty bad. I just don’t know if I could handle it all alone. I’m thinking maybe a 25-30 foot cruiser. Thanks again sir!! I look forward to reading your other articles. Sincerely, Gary Heaton Olcott, Ny Thanks a million! First time I come across an article that complete and with so much effort. For people thinking about buying a boat the info you provide is priceless. John Callahan Good information, but any article on prices should have a date associated with it. I see no indication of when this article was posted. Thank you so much for this well done article. We’re looking at getting a boat and you’ve answered questions we didn’t even know we had. Awesome article good job i am from Slovenia and thinking about buyng sailboat and sail for 6 monhs per year.I hawe bean looking on Holland sites too buy one can i maybe find auctions too buy a sailingboat i bawe wach Troswijk but they do t hawe any up ther? Many of the costs quoted look very low to me, especially in the first article. Was this written a long time ago? Excellent article. Am wondering though how do I dispose of a used boat if I get tired of it and can’t sell it or possibly run it aground. Maybe a 40 ft sloop? Chris Kenny Thanks for this infor. Peace sailing. Benjamin Sklar Extremely helpful and interesting article! Thank you! John Wallace This is the most accurate information I have ever seen about boat ownership costs. Many thanks!!!! Leave a comment You may also like, how much does it cost to dock a boat for a year. Before buying your first boat you probably want to know how much it will cost you each year. So did I, so I checked hundreds of slips, and here are the numbers I … Average Cost of Buying & Owning a Catamaran (With 4 Examples) Cost of Catamaran vs. Monohull: Which is more expensive? 9 Ways to Learn to Sail for (Practically) Free How To Live on a Sailboat: Consider These 5 Things Lines & Rigging 257 IMAGES Rigging Explained: Standing & Running (Sailboat Parts Explained Know-how: Modern Rigs 101 Sailboat Running Rigging Explained Rigging for beginners # 1. Sailboat rigging explained from standing rigging to running rigging Sailboat Rigging: Part 2 Sailboat Standing Rigging Diagram VIDEO The Near-Disaster that Could've Cost Us Everything S2 Short 25. Rigging Repairs #boat #sailboat #rigging #boatrepair #learn #pnw #boatlife #lgbtqia Dalat Sailboat Rigging Mastering Sailboat Rigging Mainsheet rigging for balanced lug sail of 12 feet skiff Rigging for Yachts COMMENTS Average Cost to Replace Standing Rigging (with Examples) Small sailboat (up to 30 feet) A 25-foot sailboat may require replacement of the forestay, backstay, and upper shrouds, which could cost around $2,500 to $3,500, including the cost of the rigging and labor. For small sailboats, the cost of replacing standing rigging can range from $2,000 to $5,000. Standing Rigging Cost: DYI vs. Rigger Jan 5, 2019. #2. I replaced all of my standing rigging last summer on the H27. Total cost from riggingonly.com shipped to NC was $700. This included swaged on studs and eyes. It was very time consuming to measure and install all the rigging, especially running the forestay through the roller furler. The Standing Rigging On A Sailboat Explained The cost of replacing the standing rigging will vary greatly depending on the size of your boat and the location you get the job done. For my 41 feet sloop, I did most of the installation myself and paid approximately $4700 for the entire rig replacement. Replacing Your Sailboat Rigging Good question. Yes, doing it yourself will theoretically save money. For an average 40-foot boat, Cockerill estimates about $100 per foot to re-rig with wire rigging ($4,000), as well as the round-trip cost to haul and launch the boat and unstep and step the rig (an additional $2,500 or so). Average Cost to Replace Running Rigging (with Examples) The estimated cost of replacing your boat's running rigging with sheets is around $1,700-$2,000+. For an average 40-foot boat, you can expect to pay around $4,000 for wire rigging replacement, which may include control lines. The average maintenance cost for boats under 30 feet is around $255 per month, or just under $3,000 per year, so you ... Average Sailboat Maintenance Costs (with 4 Examples) The average annual maintenance cost of sailboats is between $2,000 - $3,000. However, larger boats of 30 feet and up will cost considerably more. The actual total annual cost is $3,000 to $7,000, due to other recurring costs like docking and insurance fees. However, what you'll actually pay really depends on the type of boat you have and what ... Running Rigging Calculator Running Rigging Calculator Replacing Your Standing Rigging The cost to replace standing rigging obviously varies from boat to boat. Give us a call, and we can give you a rough quote. With proper measurements (wire diameter, pin sizes, wire lengths), we can give you a very accurate price for the standing rigging itself, but there are often unforeseen complications during the job (bad spreaders, corroded ... Pip Hare explains when to check and replace your standing rigging Both these surveys need to be carried out with the rig down and it may be worth balancing the overall cost of carrying out the test against the additional cost of re-rigging the boat, especially ... Standing Rigging on a Sailboat: Everything You Need to Know Short answer standing rigging on a sailboat: Standing rigging on a sailboat refers to fixed lines and cables that support the mast and help control its movement. It includes components like shrouds, stays, and forestays. These essential elements ensure stability and proper sail trim while underway. Understanding the Importance of Standing Rigging on a SailboatUnderstanding How to Replace Your Standing Rigging for Less Following are approximate costs per foot (in 2014) for standing rigging from several popular sources compared to the rigging company in my area. Popular online Catalina parts retailer: $4.00/ft. complete West Marine: $1.02/ft. cable only McMaster-Carr: $0.85/ft. cable only Local industrial rigger: $1.13/ft. complete. Inspecting, Maintaining and Replacing Standing Rigging Aug 14, 2015. It's one of the most important features on a sailboat, but many owners put standing rigging at the back of their minds when it comes time to do their pre-season safety checks. A prudent sailor should inspect his or her standing rig at least once each season and should know when the time comes to replace most or all of it. How Much Does It Cost to Replace Standing Sailing Rigging? With all of these factors in mind, what can you expect to pay for standing rigging replacement? For a small boat (under 30 feet), you can expect to pay anywhere from $500 to $2000 for standing rigging replacement. For a medium-sized boat (30-50 feet), the cost will be somewhere between $2000 and $4000. And for a large boat (over 50 feet), you ... Boat rigging: a guide to going composite Comparative boat rigging costs. Wire and rod - rigging a Dehler 38 with standard 1×19 wire or Nitronic rod, would be an estimated £2,280 for wire and around £5,000 for rod. HMPE (Dyneema/Spectra) - Cables to rig a Dehler 38 would cost £2,900-3,700. Aramid - costs of around £7,500 for the Dehler 38 are 40-60% more than rod rigging. New Sails & Rigging Cost for a 40-50' Sailboat Seems like a lot for a 40' boat. I have got quotes for sails for my 40' boat and they range from $8k for a jib and a main and I replaced the standing rigging on my boat. That cost me $10k. This was rod rigging and increased the price quite a bit. if it were wire you could get away for about half that price. Rod Rigging Replacement Cost: 2023 Breakdown A rough estimate for insurance costs could be around 1-2% of the total value of the boat. So if the boat is valued at $100,000, the estimated insurance cost for rod rigging replacement could be around $1,000-$2,000. If you have insurance for your sailboat, try to check your policy to see if it covers rod rigging replacement. Some insurance ... running rigging replacement cost for a 30ft running rigging replacement cost for a 30ft. I had an idea to hire out running rigging replacement on a 30ft sloop, with nothing fancy, just a double braid polyester. The estimate turned out to be 1700-2000+. So I told the rigger to replace just the main halyard for now (and I will do the rest by myself). Rigging costs? Feb 10, 2017. #12. I was told that a good rule of thumb is $200 per cable for 30-35 foot boat. I sail in barnegat bay as well and I used seco south in Fl. To do my Hunter 34 standing rigging. Cost me about $2600 with all new turnbuckles. Just sent seco south one complete set of my rigging so they could duplicate it. Standing rigging replacement cost I asked them if they do replacements and the answer was that they farm the work out to North East Rigging Systems. I spoke to Kevin and he said replacement would be in the $1500-2000 range, depending on whether I went with swage or norseman fittings at the bottom. He recommended noresman. Standing Rigging Replacement A broken headstay led to a full rigging overhaul. Learn how one sailor transformed his broken boat back into a sailing machine. Standing Rigging Replacement Ronnie Simpson. Reaching out of the channel in a moderate breeze, Quiver leaned on her big, overlapping genoa and accelerated up to hull speed. Surrounded by a fleet of vessels of similar ... Sailboat Rigging Guides Rigging guides and helpful info for rigging and turning your sailboat from the experts at West Coast Sailing. LABOR DAY SALE - Save up to 20% on Hobie parts, sailing gear, and one design rigging - SHOP NOW. Menu. Search. Close Search. Call Us +1-503-285-5536; Sign in & Register Compare ; Recently Viewed ... How Much Sailboats Cost On Average (380+ Prices Compared) The average price of used sailboats is $278,000 ($67,000 to $555,000). Maintenance costs are on average $2,000 - $3,000 per year, and the average total annual cost is $3,000 to $7,000. Of course the price of a sailboat depends on our choices. We decide whether sailing is a rich man's game, or actually a very good holiday investment. Sailboat Lines & Rigging Type 1: Boats up to 250 lbs Dollies. Type 2: Laser, Byte & Invitation Dollies. Type 3: Curled Gunwale Boats Dollies. Type 4.1: Small/Med Bowsprit Boats Dollies. Type 4.2: Heavier Sprit Boats Dollies. Type 5: Heavier Doble-Handed Boats Dollies. catamaran gulet motorboat powerboat riverboat sailboat trimaran yacht