420 sailboat mast

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DEVELOPMENT 420 Boat Settings - Beginner's Guide

© Event Media

Courtesy of the British 420 Class Association , below is information on some basic boat settings written by Matt Burge:

Guide to Barber Hauling

Guide to Mast Rake

Guide to Changing Mast Rake on the Water

Guide to using Mast Chocks

Guide to Spreaders

Guide to Main Sheet Bridles

Guide to Tuning

Barber hauling is the name given to tensioning the windward/slack jib sheet. This is not done in all boats (e.g. the Mirror) but in the 420 it helps to achieve a faster jib slot / leech shape. You apply barber hauler simply by pulling the windward jib sheet and cleating it. It is very important to know how much to pull it on though.

Barber hauling makes the jib fuller and therefore more powerful. It has the same effect on the jib as chocks do to the main, and therefore follows a similar pattern:

• In very light winds and when you are overpowered you want the jib flat, so none is needed, however it often pays to put on half an inch in strong wind because it makes the leech more stable.
• In wiring conditions before flat-wiring you again want power, so it is good to pull on about an inch and a half. If it is choppy as well up to two inches is good. Exceeding two inches however will close the slot and is not fast so be careful.
• Putting marks on your jib sheets in both the sheeting positions and the barber-hauler positions will help you to judge how much jib sheet and/or barber hauler you have on.
• Pull on rig tension until it reads 30 on the tension meter. (Always take the reading at shoulder height up the shroud).
• Tie the tape measure to the end of the main halyard and pull to the top of the mast. Then lower it slightly until it measures 16’1½” at the top of the black band at the gooseneck.
• Pull the tape measure to the transom & take the measurement at the top edge of the transom. We are aiming for a reading of 19’11” here (with 30 on the rig tension). So if it is 19’11” leave it and put a pen mark on the mast lining up with where the rig tension block/hook is. Label this mark ‘L’ and record which hole the shrouds are in on the chain plates. This is your light wind setting.
• If it does not read 19’11” then take the rig tension off & move the shrouds down the chain plates if the reading is above 19’11”, and up the plates if it is below. (Each hole on the chain plates will make a difference of roughly 1½” to your measurement).
• Repeat steps 1-4 until you achieve 19’11” with 30 on the rig tension.
• Then, repeat steps 1-4 but to get a measurement of 19’9¾”. Once achieved mark the mast with ‘M’ and again record the hole number (which is usually a hole down from the light wind setting). This is your medium wind setting. Don’t worry if a rig tension of 31 is needed to achieve this measurement.
• Then, do the same again but to get 19’8½” using 31-32 on the rig tension. Mark this as ‘S’ on your mast and record the hole number, (which is usually a hole down from the medium setting). This is your strong wind setting.
• If you & your crew are very light you may like to set up 19’7” with 31-32 on the rig tension. Use this only in very windy conditions.

The strengths of wind at which you should change settings depends entirely on your crew weight:

Use the light wind setting upto the point where you become overpowered. i.e. your crew is flat wiring and you are having to play more than 6” of mainsail.

Then change to medium wind settings. If you are then having to play more than 6” of mainsail all the time on medium settings then change to strong wind settings.

Always choose the setting that best suits the strength of the lulls.

• Go ‘heave-to’. (Back the jib, let the main sail go completely & put the tiller down to leeward).
• Completely let the rig tension off & pull the kicker on hard. This will make the leeward shroud go slack.
• Change the leeward shroud to the new hole.
• Tack & go ‘heave-to’ on the other tack.
• Change the leeward/other shroud to the new hole.
• Release the kicker and pull the rig tension onto the new mark on the mast (that corresponds to the new hole numbers).

This process will take a few minutes and so is not practical to do in a race. However it is useful to be able to do before a race and in between races should the wind get up or die.

It is a good idea to tie your shroud plate pins onto the plates so that you do not loose them whilst changing holes on the water. It is also safer to buy shroud plates that the shrouds cannot come out the top of should things go wrong!

Chock are the small ‘mushroom-shaped’ plates that you can put in front of the mast. They affect the pre-bend and as a result affect the amount of power you have in the mainsail:

Less pre-bend = Straighter mast = Fuller mainsail = More power More pre-bend = More curved mast = Flatter mainsail = Less power

Chocks alter the pre-bend by pushing back on the lower mast, therefore straightening it. So the more chocks that you put in the straighter the mast becomes and the more power you achieve.

Therefore; more chocks = more power

If you set up your light wind mast rake you will find a gap in front of the mast where the chocks go. If you fill this gap with chocks so that they are touching the mast but not pushing back on it this is your neutral number of chocks. Record/remember this number of chocks.

When you have neutral chocks in your sail is at its flattest, so neutral chocks are good when the wind is very light or if you are overpowered. As soon as you get on the wire there is enough wind for the sail to cope with being a bit fuller & more powerful put one more chock in (we call this +1). When you are well out on the wire (but not flat wiring/overpowered), and especially in choppy conditions put two extra chocks in (+2) for maximum power. However, as soon as you become overpowered (i.e. flat-wiring & playing the mainsail all the time) then go back down to neutral chocks because you do not need any extra power.

Also, do not exceed two extra chocks – putting in three extra chocks is likely to invert the mast!!!

It is not always practical to change chocks in a race so make sure they are right before you start. If the wind does change in a race such that you need to change the chocks then the best time to do it is on a run – there is less forwards pressure on the mast on a run & the crew is in the boat and able to reach the chocks.

NOTE: If you are very overpowered in very strong wind then you can remove one of the neutral chocks (-1). This will help to flatten/de-power your sail even more.

If you set up your light wind setting you will notice that your mast has a slight bend/curve going up it, this is called the pre-bend. The amount of pre-bend is controlled by the spreaders. You can measure pre-bend by following these steps:

• Set up your light wind setting & make sure there are no chocks in.
• Get the heavier of the two of you to pull and hold the main halyard tight against the gooseneck on the back edge of the mast.
• Meanwhile the lighter one of you needs to climb onto the boat (carefully) and stand next to the mast where the chocks normally go.
• From this position measure (using a ruler) the distance between the halyard and the back edge of the mast where the spreaders join. (This is the point where the pre-bend is greatest).

Different makes of sails require different pre-bends, these are:

Pinnel & Bax – 35mm Olimpic – 33mm Speed – 32mm North – 32mm

If your pre-bend measurement does not equal your sail’s requirement then release the rig tension, adjust the spreaders so that they are angled further back if your measurement is too small or further forward if it is too large. Then re-measure the pre-bend using steps 1-4 and keep adjusting until its right!

The bridle is the piece of rope that holds your mainsheet block and joins onto each end of the bar behind the centreboard. The lengths of the bridle are very important because they control the mainsail leech tension when block to block. The rules state that you are allowed two settings on your bridle length, so we set up one to be used with the light wind mast rake and one to be used with the medium & strong wind mast rakes. (The bridle length is changed with mast rake like this because the boom height alters with mast rake).

To set up the light wind bridle:

• Choose a day with a force 3-4 wind & set up your light wind mast rake.
• Check that the bridle ropes are equal in length by lining the block up along the centreboard. Adjust them so that they are.
• Hoist the main sail and set it up as if you were going sailing (eg outhaul on etc but no kicker on). Also, turn the boat 45 degrees to the wind so that it’s in the close hauled position. You will need to get your crew to hold the side of the boat so that a gust doesn’t blow it off the trailer!
• Pull the main in block to block and look at the leech. If none of the telltails are flying & it’s straight/tight then your bridle is too short. If the leech is very bowed/slack and all the telltails are flying then your bridle is too long. If your leech has a slight curve and the top telltail is flying 50% of the time then your bridle is perfect. (Make sure the kicker is off all the time).
• Adjust your bridle until this perfect leech is achieved, making sure you make equal adjustments to each side so it always lines up with the centreboard. Once achieved this is your light wind bridle setting.

To make the strong wind setting just tie two loops 7cm up from where the ends of the bridle join the clips on the bar. To use the strong setting you just need to clip the loops onto the bar:

NOTE: You will now need to set up your light wind setting again because tying the loops will have shortened the light wind settings quite a lot.

The following is a general table on how you might set up your 420 for different conditions. This does depend upon your crew weight though and so should not be followed religiously. I would encourage you however to make a table of your own personal settings built up through trail and error.

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420 TUNING GUIDE

• Quick Tuning Chart for the M-11 Mainsail
• Quick Tuning Chart for the M-7 and M-9 Mainsails
• Bolt Rope Instructions

BOAT TUNING

You can see the above chart to search for proper pre-bend by checking your weight and mast stiffness. If you can’t find it, you can test to sail with every 5mm different pre-bend in the range provided in the tuning table to evaluate how the boat performs and you feel the boat.You may try pre-bend out of this range, if necessary. *In case it is difficult to bring enough pre-bend, you may move the mast step position back by 1-3cm.

Spreader Deflection

Due to the base helm characteristics of 420, you need to put the mast step almost max forward in the rule which is 2830mm. From this position, you then adjust the deflection (D) to create the desired pre-bend.

Spreader Length

480mm is the standard length. The length affects sideways bend. That makes a difference in stability of the mainsail leech and its response when a puff hits the boat. One suggestion is set longer spreader lengths for heavy crews and shorter for light weight crews. This can cover the weak area of each team’s weight. You can control it in range of 465-495mm, which is effective.

TUNING TIPS

In the breeze you need to chock quite hard as you need to use a lot of vang tension in the wind.

Cunningham  –  Do not use any until you are overpowered, then start to use gradually, you have to take it very hard on when strong wind.To archieve it,it is good to have a bowline tied at the end of the rope so crew could get their foot in the loop to get more cunningham tension on.

Windward Sheet   – Windward sheeting is important to hold the jib leech position at the proper inside position to create the best performance, even though it is not easy to use it properly. Use to put mark on the jib sheet at the cleat. performance, even though it is not easy to use it properly.

Jib Height – The peak rope fixed at the head of jib controls the jib height.Normally it must be fixed by having a proper deck sweeping effect. However, for the 420 class it is important to know the height should be adjusted to provide the optimum jib lead angle. As the sheeting point is fixed, you should adjust the peak rope to move the jib clew up or down to achieve the desired sheeting angle. So you can use it for this sake.Clear understanding about the relationship between jib lead angle, jib height and mast rake will let you set up the jib to suit the conditions.

Spinnaker Pole Height

When using the spinnaker in choppy waves on a flat run, it is best to set up the spinnaker pole height so the tack (corner of spinnaker the pole is closet to) is slightly lower than the clew.

Centreboard

You needed to have a good action to play the centerboard as it is hard to adjust the other controls readily. The centreboard slot needs to be packed well with the centreboard to allow the centreboard to be changed easily.

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Accelerate skill development in a boat that delivers an edge.

A Mackay 420 has been behind nearly every world champion success since we commenced building 420’s in 2012.

Specifications

Hull Length                            4.2 m

Beam Length                        1.63 m

Mainsail Area                       7.4 m2

Headsail Area                       2.8 m2

Spinnaker Area                    9.0 m2

Boat Weight                          100 kg

Hull Weight                           80 kg

Hull Material                         GRP

No. of Crew                           2

Opt Crew Weight                 110 - 145 kg

Number of Trapeze             Single

Designer                                 Christian Maury

420 Class Association website:  http://www.420sailing.org/

The 420 is one of the best options to learn the ropes about two-person dinghy sailing. Crews learn how to tune a boat, set up control systems, trim sail combinations (jib, main and spinnaker together), work on downwind and upwind techniques, and importantly, learn how to work with another crew.

The Class has attracted many top sailors to it, providing a learning platform that has led them into successful Olympic campaigns and big boat careers.  

The 420’s design and class rules gave us the opportunity to build a boat similar to how the Mackay 470 is built in terms of the mould structure and look of the boat. 

The Mackay 420 hull shape was developed by naval architect Kevin Trotter. Kevin has designed very fast dinghies here in New Zealand over the years. Using the latest design and analysis software, along with the luxury of time we were able to evaluate the expected performance along with the look of the boat. 

Looking at where crews tended to sit in the boat in different conditions affected where we pushed the displacement curve of the boat.   Additionally, Kevin's skiff designs gave valuable insight into the way the rocker curve and buttocks lines should run through the middle and aft sections.

The hull is made from a polyester e-glass fibre, using foam core ribs and core mat panels.

The Mackay 420 deck to hull joint system is the same as our 470s, which allows for the same exceptionally strong but light gunwale arrangement. This extends around the bow and across the transom.

We have also borrowed some other features off the 470.  As an example, the way the mast partner is fitted to the deck after the boat is built allows the bulkhead in front of the mast to be more vertical and closer to the mast.  This is better for rig tension and weight distribution.  It also improves the look of the boat giving it a longer foredeck. 

The rudder stock is in cast aluminum which provides excellent support. The foils are built in the same way as our 470 foils by resin infusion.  

Most importantly the time and energy we put into the rudder and centreboard design along with the finishing of the moulds has resulted in some very special foils.

420: Our recent successes

420 Mackay Boats History

How to do a gelcoat repair.

Small gel coat repairs are relatively easy to do. 

What is Gelcoat made up of?

Gelcoat is a polyester product that is cured by using a catalyst called MEKP. (Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide)

MEKP is a dangerous substance and should be treated as such when using, being very careful not to get any on your skin or in your eyes.

How can I get the catalyst - MERK?

We cannot ship MEKP so you will always need to buy it separately from your local marine store or fibreglass manufacturer.

How much MERK do I need?

The amount of Catalyst varies depending on the conditions you are using it in, but around 2%-3% will always work.

It is best to use a small syringe or dropper to get the required catalyst rate.

If you have mixed 100gm of gelcoat, then you are aiming for 2ml of catalyst.

What are the Gelcoat colours?

Gelcoats colours are not always a 100% perfect match.

Colour will vary depending on the depth of the repair and the batch.

470, 420, 29er & Starling are built from polyester resin.

For Polyester boats

470  White-  LS30    White PA 337

470  Grey- Grey RAL 7035

Blue = is supplier by Nuplex who have their own code which is not an international code

Does Mackay Boats supply gelcoat?

We supply a small tin (of each relevant colour) with each new boat.

Order additional gelcoat from our store, although it cannot be shipped by courier.

How do I do gelcoat repairs?

Doing gelcoat repairs is an art that improves with experience.

Making sure the surface is prepared well and keyed up is critical.

Overfill and then sanding back is a slow and time-consuming process.

Be very careful not to scratch the boat around the repair.

You shouldn’t sand the original surface around the repair with any paper coarser than 600grit.

Mask around the repair to protect the boat.

You can initially use a file or 150g to take the high parts off the filling, but don't use the coarse paper for too long or you will end up with scratches in the finished repair.

Once you have it fair with 600g, you can work your way through the sandpaper grades until you finish with 1500grit before cutting and polishing.

We would typically use 600g, then 800g or 1000g, then 1200g, then finally 1500g.

What can be customised?

Deck colour and non-skid on the side-decks. You can find these options if you try the boat configurator on our website.

What colour options do you offer?

White, Light Grey, Light Blue, Light Green, and Cream. On the 420, Grey is the most popular, with Blue and White equal second most popular.

How do you fit a mylar gasket the hull?

 Please watch this short video that demonstrates fitting a mylar gasket to the 420 hull - 

>> Fitting a mylar gasket .

420 Tuning Tips

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• Sailboat Guide

420 is a 13 ′ 9 ″ / 4.2 m monohull sailboat designed by Christian Maury and built by Rondar Raceboats, Fountaine Pajot, Snapir Sailing Craft Ltd., MacKay Boats Ltd., Lanaverre, Johnson Boat Works, Far East Boat Co., Whitecap Composites, Xtreme Sailing Products, and Nautivela starting in 1959.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

One of the most successful sailing dinghies ever. (Only the SUNFISH or LASER can be considered in the same league.) Originally designed and built by Lanaverre of France. (They built 32,000 according to one source.) Licenses were later granted to other builders around the world. In 1996, the International Class agreed to amend the deck layout. 1 Trapeze permitted. Spinnaker: 97 sq.ft. There is a ‘Club’ version of heavier construction and slightly different dimensions.

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420 Class: Club, Collegiate = Win, Win

August 1, 2014 by Sail1Design Editor 1 Comment

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420 Rigging Guide

Go To: Sailing - Rigging Guides

Posted on 14 March 2009 19:26

A smaller version of the olympic 470 class, the 420 was formerly a youth development class (i.e. young people trained up in the 420 before moving onto olympic class boats), the 420 has a good class following, and is a good introduction to performance boats.

The 420 has a Plymouth Yardstick (Handicap Number) of 1087 - pretty fast, but still fair. For those who like the 420, as they progress they may move into the larger 470, which has a similar layout but is slightly larger. The 420 has a single crew trapeze and a symmetric spinnaker, and for those nutters amongst you, can even be setup to sail single handed.

Photo 1, The 420, ready to rig with no wind.

Photo 2, Cockpit layout

Photo 3, Front bulkhead and mast

What You need

- Hull - Mast + Shrouds and Forestay - Boom - Main Sail - Rudder - Centreboard (usually attached) - Outhaul - Downhaul - Kicking Strap - Bungs - Painter Rope - Elastic bungee for the trapeze

Photo 4, Mast and halyard jammer arrangement

Photo 5, Thwarte and centreboard

Photo 6, Rudder pintles

Photo 7, Traveller

Lets Get Started!

Photo 8, Jib sheet jammers

Photo 9, Parts laid out ready to rig

Before starting for the first time, make sure you have everything available, or a rope and spares box handy. The 420 hull is smooth with no chines (ridges), so can be quite "tippy". Once again the 420 is a restricted design rather than one design, so there is room for alternatives, if you want to experiment or upgrade, we suggest you take a look at the 420 Class Rules for more information.

Photo 10, Closeup of kicker parts

Photo 11, Underside of boom

We chose not to take apart the mast and take it down. If yours comes with the mast off, which it possibly will, it's a simple matter of untangling the shroud and forestay wires, dropping the bottom of the mast into the mast step inside the boat (after checking the bottom of the mast is clean), and then securing the shroud and forestay wires with split pins and rings or whatever other fittings are on your boat. It's a good idea to check the state of the pulley sheaves in the bottom of the mast - if these are rusted, jammed up or just don't run very well it makes it harder to hoist the sails.

We recommend two people to step the mast - one to hold the mast up while the other attaches the pins. Masts on 420's can vary, with jammers and pulley blocks in different positions. The spreaders should be adjustable - although we haven't yet covered adjusting these in an article, look for one soon.

Photo 12, Back end of boom

Photo 13, Kicker attachment on boom

Photo 14, Spinnaker pole holders

Photo 15, Attach the jib to the front chainplate

Attach the fitting at the bottom of the jib luff to the chainplate or fixing at the front of the deck, as shown in Photo 15. The jib goes behind the forestay, as shown. Attach the top of the jib luff to the free end of the halyard with a shackle (Photo 16), and then hoist the jib. Tie the halyard off into the appropriate jammer/cleat, usually found on the mast on a 420. At this point, if the mast is adjusted correctly, the jib luff should now be tight, and the forestay a little slack, as shown in the photo. To achieve this, the best way is for one person to pull forward on the forestay to pull the mast forward slightly, while the other hoists the jib.

Photo 16, Attach the jib to the end of the halyard

Next, attach the jib sheets to the clew on the jib. The easiest way is to double the rope over to find the midpoint, tie one stopper knot, feed it through the clew, and then tie another stopper knot the other side - this keeps the rope with equal lengths either side (Photo 19). Feed the working ends of each jib sheet inside each shroud and trapeze wire, through the fairlead and jammer block (Photo 20). Finish it off with a stopper or figure 8 knot.

Photo 17, Hoist the jib

Photo 18, Jib hoisted. The wind was starting to pick up...

Photo 19, Jib sheet attached to clew of jib

An alternative method is to use continuous jib sheets, particularly if you are mad enough to sail it single handed. There are two ways to do this - either rig as above, and tie the ends together, or for a more permanent arrangement without any knots in the boat, dou need to do this slightly back to front, and feed the working ends through the jammers backwards, before attaching to the sail. Pass each end through the clew so there are two lengths of rope going through the clew, and then tie a fishermans knot - tie a single basic knot in each piece of rope, with the other end passing through the middle of it. This will make it harder to take the jib sheets off, so don't do it if you need to derig quickly; it also means you can't use the jibsheet to help right the boat after a capsize.

Photo 20, Pass the jib sheets through the jammers

Photo 21, Slide the main sail foot car into the boom

3. Main Sail onto boom

Next, feed the car on the bottom of the mainsail (Photo 21), and then the mainsail foot, into the slot on the top of the boom (Photo 22). Pull it along until it reaches the end (photo 23), then slide a cotter pin into the fitting at the end (Photo 24), through the eye in the tack, to hold the front egde of the sail.

Photo 22, Pull the main sail along the boom

Photo 23, All the way to the end

Photo 24, Pin the tack of the main sail

Photo 25, Thread the outhaul rope thorugh the jammer

We have the end of our outhaul rope whipped with tape to stop it fraying, and we had no source of flame available. Put a knot in one end of the outhaul rope, and then pass the other, working end, through the v jammer style cleat on the underside of the boom (Photo 25). Pass it through the boom end (Photo 26), around the sheave (Photo 27), and through to the top of the boom (Photo 28). Next, either attach it to a shackle (Photo 29) and the shackle to the clew of the sail, or directly attach it to the clew using a bowline. The complete outhaul can be seen in Photo 31. If you are setting up the boat for competitive racing, you may wish to change this arrangement, just remember to keep within the class rules!

Photo 26, Then through the end of the boom

Photo 27, Around the sheave

Photo 28, Pull it through

Photo 29, Attach to a shackle or the sail

Photo 30, A shackle can be used for quick derigging

Photo 31, Outhaul complete

5. Hoist mainsail

Attach the main sail halyard to the top of the mainsail using an appropriate shackle (Photo 32), then one person should feed the main sail luff into the slot on the back of the mast (Photo 33), as the other hoists it using the halyard (Photo 34).

Photo 32, Attach the main sail halyard

Photo 33, Feed the main sail luff into the mast slot

Do not put the boom on the gooseneck yet - one person should lift the boom to take the weight off the sail, and then hoist the sail to the top of the mast. Next, pull down on the boom and feed it onto the gooseneck (Photo 35).

Photo 34, Hoist the main sail

Photo 35, Pull the boom down to the gooseneck

Now, put the kicker together. A swivel block is attached to the mast, and a v-jammer to the underside of the boom. In our pictures, the v-jammer is attached to a short length of steel wire, which is permanently fixed onto the underside of the boom.

Photo 36, Assemble the kicker

Photo 37, Assemble the kicker

Next, feed the rope through the blocks as shown, starting by tying the one end to the becket on the v-jammer, down through the swivel block from underneath up to the top, then back up to the v-jammer, around and out through the jammer. Put a stopper or figure 8 knot in the end to sop it going through. See Photos 36-38 to assemble the kicker, and Photo 39 for the completed kicking strap.

7. Trapeze Handles + Elastic

Assemble the trapeze handle jammers in the same manner as the kicker - although in the picture shown, our top block is twisted round (Photo 40). A length of elastic reaches from one handle to the other, going from a handle, through a fairlead, through a whole in the deck/bow, behind the mast, then out the other side to the other trapeze handle (Photos 41 and 42). We'd recommend not using the trapeze the first time you go out, until you get more used to the boat, unless you are a very experienced trapeze artist!

Photo 38, Assemble the kicker

Photo 39, The complete kicker (2:1)

Photo 40, An assembled trapeze wire and handle

Photo 41, The trapeze elastic

8. Mainsheet + Traveller

Tie one end of the main sheet to the fairlead fixing in the middle of the underside of the boom behind the swivel block (Photo 43), with a bowline (Photo 44). Feed it through the block attached to the traveller behind the centreboard (Photo 45), then back up and through the swivel block on the boom (Photo 46). Next, take the working end down, and through the pull and then the jammer block (Photo 47), and finish off with a stopper or figure 8 knot.

Photo 42, The trapeze elastic

Photo 43, Attach the main sheet to the boom

Different traveller designs are used on 420s - on ours an older one is in use, which has seen better days. Unfortunately, its broken to the point where it can no longer be used as a traveller, and is difficult to replace because it is fixed onto the bouyancy tanks at either side - this is an important thing to look out for when buying a 420.

Photo 44, Attach the main sheet to the boom

Photo 45, Through the pulley on the traveller

In theory, the position of the traveller can either be fixed by jamming the adjustment lines to control the amount of twist in the sail, or left to move from side to side as required.

Photo 46, Back up to the pulley on the boom

Photo 47, The complete mainsheet

This is an easy one - attach the rudder to the pintles on transom as shown (Photo 48). Depending on your style of rudder/tiller, you may have uphaul and/or downhaul lines on it (Photo 49).

Photo 48, Add the rudder

Photo 49, Attach the rudder uphaul

Ensure you place all bungs into holes that require them - this is important, as 420's have very large bouyancy tanks which don't take well to filling up with water (Photos 50 and 51).

Photo 50, Don't forget the bungs!

Photo 51, Don't forget the bungs!

11. Buying a 420

There are several things to watch out for when buying a second hand 420. First of all, check for the springiness of the tops of the bouyancy tanks, where you sit - these can be weaker on older models and are difficult to strengthen. Also look at the traveller and see what condition it is in, and how easy to replace - be careful if it is similar to ours as we are having difficulty locating spares to repair ours. As always, check for the condition of the deck, and look for any cracks or damage, particularly along seams, joins and structural areas.

On the mast, the pulley blocks can wear out quickly, as they tend to sit in water at the bottom of the boat. This can make it hard to hoist the sail. On the subject of the sail - check the luff for any damage, particularly around the top full length batten where it can wear and make it hard to hoist the sail.

Check any hairline cracks around the hull - it is usual to see them on an older boat, just make sure they aren't hiding more damage, particularly in corners or joins.

There you have it - a fully rigged and ready to sail 420. The 420 does have a spinnaker - unfortunately we had no wind when we started rigging our boat, but a devilish Force 6 by the time we finished, so not very good for rigging a spinnaker on land. We will revisit the 420 soon and add an article on rigging the spinnaker.

Photo 52, The 420, all rigged (minus spinnaker)

Photo 53, A rather windy day by now, with good sail shape and streaming telltales!

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Zim Sailing's Club 420 has quickly become the go-to C420, regardless of whether you're winning the Triple Crown circuit or just teaching learn-to-sail at the local sailing club. One-design sailors want the strongest, lightest, most durable boats and rigging available. We’ve met this demand with proven boat construction techniques and a rigging system that ensures performance, strength, and durability. This durability has led to many happy repeat customers, and has made Zim Sailing the leading provider of Club 420s in the world. Available in Club, Race, and Pro specifications. 

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420 Sailboat: An In-depth Analysis

The 420 sailboat, a classic in the sailing world, is known for its versatility and performance. Loved by both beginners and seasoned sailors alike, this craft offers a unique sailing experience. In this comprehensive review, we will delve into its features, functionality, and overall value.

The History of the 420 Sailboat

The 420 sailboat has been a staple in the boating community since its creation in 1959. Designed by Christian Maury, this French-made dinghy has gained a reputation for being a top choice for youth training, high school and collegiate sailing, and even for competitive events. Over the decades, it has proven its worth and stood the test of time, making it a much-loved choice for many sailors.

Design and Construction

When it comes to design and construction, the 420 sailboat is nothing short of impressive. Its 4.2 meters of length coupled with a light hull weight of around 80 kg allows for easier transportation and storage. The boat's construction materials have evolved over time, with modern versions often featuring a durable fiberglass hull and an aluminum mast.

Sails and Rigging

The 420's sailplan consists of a mainsail, a jib, and a spinnaker. This configuration offers a balanced performance in various wind conditions, allowing sailors to efficiently manage and adjust sails as necessary.

Performance on Water

The 420 sailboat's performance is noteworthy, as it strikes a perfect balance between speed, stability, and maneuverability. Its responsiveness, combined with the simplicity of its handling, makes it an ideal boat for a wide range of skill levels.

Handling and Maneuverability

The 420's handling and maneuverability is where this vessel truly shines. Its lightweight design and efficient hull shape allow for quick tacking and gybing, while the adjustable rigging system enables sailors to modify the boat's performance according to changing conditions.

Comfort and Safety

Although primarily designed for competitive sailing, the 420 sailboat doesn't compromise on comfort and safety. The cockpit is spacious enough to accommodate two people comfortably, while the hull's robust construction and the boat's inherent stability offer peace of mind to the crew on board.

The 420 sailboat is truly a gem in the sailing world. With its enduring design, commendable performance, and solid build, it promises an enjoyable sailing experience. Whether you're a beginner looking for a reliable boat to learn on, or an experienced sailor seeking a versatile craft for competitive racing, the 420 sailboat certainly warrants consideration.

Price and Value

When it comes to value for money, the 420 sailboat stands tall among its competitors. While the initial investment may seem significant, its longevity, performance capabilities, and the enduring demand in the second-hand market make it a worthwhile investment for the serious sailor.

Initial Cost

The price of a new 420 sailboat can vary significantly depending on the manufacturer, equipment included, and the specific model. As of 2023, you can expect to pay anywhere between $8,000 to $12,000 for a new 420 sailboat.

Maintenance and Operating Costs

The 420 sailboat's maintenance costs are relatively low compared to other similar vessels. Due to its robust construction and simple design, regular cleaning and occasional rigging adjustments are generally all that's needed to keep a 420 in top shape. Additionally, being a small sailing dinghy, it doesn't incur mooring fees and its transportation costs are minimal.

Resale Value

One of the standout aspects of the 420 sailboat is its strong resale value. Given its popularity in sailing schools and racing events, there is always demand in the second-hand market. Well-maintained boats often retain a significant percentage of their original value, making the 420 a financially sound choice.

Final Thoughts

The 420 sailboat is a true classic that continues to hold its own in the contemporary sailing world. With its perfect balance of performance, durability, and value, it offers a versatile sailing solution for enthusiasts of all skill levels.

In conclusion, the 420 sailboat ticks all the right boxes for both recreational and competitive sailing. From its clever design and excellent performance to its safety features and overall value, it offers everything a sailor could ask for. For those in the market for a reliable, efficient, and enjoyable sailing vessel, the 420 sailboat is indeed a worthy contender.

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C420 sail boat spars including masts (bare and complete), booms, spinnaker poles and all spar fittings.

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C420 / V15 Forestay

C420 Jib Halyard (Wire Only)

C420/FJ Wire Pin Lanyard

C420/FJ Spinnaker Pole - Non Tapered

C420 Spinnaker Guy Rolling Pin - 1/4in (Zim)

C420 Boom *Selden* (LP/Zim)

C420 Shroud - Link Plate Style (Zim)

C420/FJ Shroud Adjuster Cover - Long

C420/FJ Shroud Adjuster Cover

Main Halyard and Bridle Ring (Zim)

Shroud Adjuster 420/FJ/V15 - No Hardware (Zim)

Boom Tack Fast Pin (420/FJ/V15)

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MiniCat 420

Performs as good as it looks.

The MiniCat 420 is our best selling MiniCat model. It fits a wide range of functionality with the ability to mount an outboard and a total weight capacity of 992 pounds! This is the perfect family sailor. Easy enough for a few kids to manage, but turns into a rocket ship when put into capable hands. The MiniCat 420 is the best value in sailing. Period. It will only fly a hull when you want it to and will ghost along efficiently in the lightest of air.

The MiniCat 420 comes in 5 different trim levels: Instinct, Emotion, Evoque, Laura Dekker Edition, and the Red Beard Exclusive Carbon model. All 420 models include a continuous line jib furler. You can learn more about each trim level below.

Setup is easy!  Click here to watch the full MiniCat 420 setup video.

The Instinct is the base model of the 420. The Instinct has a boom-less mainsail but does not utilize a dedicated forestay or allow for the addition of a gennaker. We recommend buying the higher 420 trim levels due to the lack of dedicated forestay on the Instinct.

The Emotion is a great boat at a great price. You have an aluminum bowsprit, boom, and an aluminum. The Emotion uses a mostly mono-film mainsail and a dacron jib.

The Evoque is the carbon fiber version of the Emotion, the boom, bowsprit, and rudder are all carbon fiber. This saves a few pounds and the boat gets a color scheme change. The mainsail uses a reinforced laminated film and dacron with a dacron jib.

The Laura Dekker edition has an awesome color scheme over a dacron jib and a poly-x racing mainsail. The Laura Dekker also boasts a traveler and all the carbon fiber bits from the Evoque.

The 420 Carbon is an Evoque but instead of an aluminum mast, we have replaced it with an ultra-lightweight carbon fiber mast. We have also added a traveler to bring this boat up to the highest performance possible.

Not the right sailboat for you? Let’s find your perfect boat.

Minicat 420 innovations.

The MiniCat 420 is the most popular boat in the MiniCat lineup. It is versatile as a sporty solo sailor or as a fun and safe family daysailor. With the ability to add an outboard and a furling large Code 0 sail, this boat can check all of the boxes, all while still only taking 30-40 minutes to assemble and fits conveniently into two bags!

MiniCat 420 Features & Benefits

The MiniCat 420 is a boat that combines premium and lightweight materials that allow you to spend time on the water without the need for a slip or trailer! This travel ready sailboat is perfect for fast solo sailing as well a safe and family friendly daysailer.

Windowed Sails

The jib and main sails on the MiniCat boats all have windows in them. This allows you to be more aware of your surroundings. Even with the colorful sails, sometimes other boaters are not paying attention. These windows allow you to see 360° and be responsive to your surroundings.

Continuous Line Roller Furling Jib

All MiniCat 420 models are equipped with a continuous line roller furler. This allows you to put away the jib sail, on either tack without any worry or possibility of a snag, clog, or line override that the single-line furlers are notorious for. You can also store your jib furled (folded in half) to make boat set-up and take-down quicker and easier.

Fully Battened Square-top Mainsail

The square-top mainsail provides this beachcat with more than enough power to have a fun day on the water. Fully battened for superior sail shape, even in light winds. The 420 can easily reach speeds up to 12 knots and some have even pushed their boat faster than 16 knots!

Heytex 5509 PVC

All MiniCats, including the MiniCat 420, have hulls made in Germany with Heytex 5509 PVC. This is top shelf PVC and has a longer life expectancy than typical boat PVC. This boat fabric is no different than other PVC with regards to repair. It is easily repairable by an amateur, so no more expensive boat yard repair bills!

Powder Coated Lightweight Frame

MiniCats are built with lightweight aluminum frames that have been powder coated using techniques that are time tested and durable. The rugged, long-lasting frame uses the lightweight and durable materials for both transport ease and sailing performance.

Ergonomic Trampoline

The MiniCat 420 has a feature rich trampoline, complete with plenty of places to hold on with reinforced handles in each corner. There are also pockets for the halyards and even a place to clip drybags in a snag free pouch. There is a hiking strap long enough for at least 2 pairs of feet and bungee lacing at the base of the mast for stowing larger gear. There are also diagonal webbed straps sewn on the trampoline to provide extra grip.

Low Aspect Ratio Keels

The MiniCat 420 is equipped with long shallow keels under each hull which contribute to the MiniCat’s ease of use and great sailing characteristics. The keels allow the 420 to be sailed in very shallow waters. You need only fly a hull when you want; it is very easy to prevent capsizes thanks to these keels that resist rotation of the hulls. The keels are set aft of the mast, which allows the 420 to tack much quicker than other hard hulled catamarans.

Small Pack-down for Easy Storage and Transport

The MiniCat 420 packs away into two easy-to-manage bags. These bags are well-organized to keep things from getting damaged in storage. The MiniCat bags and packaway are better than other portable boats on the market. These bags can be stored under your bed, in a closet or checked as luggage on an airplane. Call your airline for a quote on oversized luggage fees, they can vary by airline. Wheeled storage bags are easy to transport and move around without heavy lifting.

Additional Equipment

MiniCat has a comprehensive catalog of accessories for their boats. From front trampolines to motor mounts and even a gennaker, there is a way to spice up your next adventure!

MiniCat 420 Technical Specifications

Packing & Assembly Specifications

MiniCat Featured Accessories

Be ready for anything with our full line of accessories.

Front Trampoline for All MiniCat Sailboats

This trampoline can support up to 44 lbs of cargo and supplies, perfect for a cooler and fishing gear!

Be sure you are selecting the trampoline for your model MiniCat.

Code 0 Sail for MiniCat 420

One (1) Screecher with a furler for a MiniCat 420. This is a high quality with a cut similar to a traditional Code 0 sail. It is a little flatter than the old gennaker which allows for better reaching. This sail is on a continuous line furler which makes this sail very simple to operate and stow.

The sail area for the 420 version is 85 ft² (7.2 m²).

Deluxe Inflator Pump

This fully automatic 15.7 CFM 2 stage inflation pump is perfect for your MiniCat, Happy Cat, ROWonAIR or Takacat boat! This is the big brother to the Speedy Inflation Pump, adding more precise accuracy and a built in pressure gauge. 

Stops automatically when full pressure is reached:   Simply set the dial for the pressure required, and the pump automatically stops when your pre-selected pressure is reached.

Includes a built-in precision pressure gauge, a 5'7" flexible tube and 9'10" power cord with alligator clips to attach to 12V battery power source (we use a jump box for starting cars). Complete with a handy shoulder bag and multi-diameter adapter set to fit a wide range of inflatables. Max amp draw of 20A @12V. Maximum air pressure of 14.5psi (1 BAR)

Specifications

• Voltage:   12V DC
• Max. Pressure:   14.5psi (1 BAR)
• Power Connection:   Alligator clips for 12V car battery
• Power Cord:   9'10'
• Amperage:   20A

Wheel Bag Upgrade for MiniCat 420 and 460

Pressure Gauge

Telescopic Paddle

FAST Lacing Upgrade Kit for MiniCat 420

Inflatable Seats MiniCat 420 and 460

Minicat Pintop Mainsail

Transport Trolley Wheels for MiniCat Sailboats

Harken 40mm Carbo Block

Wind Vane for MiniCat Sailboats

Trapeze Kit MiniCat Sailboats

Neoprene Shroud Covers

Protective Rudder Cover

MiniCat Float Support

MiniCat 420 Carbon Mast Upgrade

Spare MiniCat 420 Boat Bag

Outboard Mount for MiniCat 420

Folding Swim Ladder

MiniCat Bag

Upgrade to Dyneema Shrouds MiniCat 420

Upgrade to Carbon Tiller Extension for MiniCat 420

Upgrade to Telescopic Tiller Extension for MiniCat 420

Mast Float for MiniCat 420 Instinct Sailboats

Mast Float for MiniCat 420 All Models (excl. Instinct) Sailboats

UV Protective Cover for MiniCat 420 Sailboats

ePropulsion Spirit 1.0 Plus Long Shaft

Three reasons you need epropulsion for your boat: clean, easy, quiet..

With a seamlessly attachable lithium battery and outstanding efficiency, the Spirit 1.0 Plus is a great alternative to rowing or a noisy gas outboard. The Spirit 1.0 Plus can do everything a 3 HP outboard motor can, but is lighter, cleaner, quieter, and more convenient.

Easily push a dinghy to and from shore or us it to reliably and efficiently dock small to medium racing sailboats. When needed, the large prop provides more low RPM thrust than its equivalent gas outboard. 

ePropulsion has mastered the direct drive motor. The only noise this motor makes is the sound of the boat's hull passing through the water, it is literally quieter than a whisper (no high pitched whine like other motors on the market).

Note: Because many customers choose to purchase multiple batteries, the Spirit 1.0 Plus does not include a battery pack. Be sure to add one or more to your cart below.

Package Includes:

ePropulsion Spirit 1.0 Plus Long Shaft, integrated tiller, on-board computer, GPS-based range calculation, Motor Mount, and 2x emergency magnetic stop key.

ePropulsion Spirit 1.0 Battery

Lightweight - Weighing only 19 pounds, anyone can carry and install this battery.

Efficient - On one charge you can easily do 22+ miles at almost 5 mph!

Maintenance Free - Sealed, watertight construction ensures never need to do anything but charge the battery for the life of your motor!

Floats - If you accidentally drop this pricey e-tank, no worries, it floats!

Powerful - Holds 1275Wh of battery capacity.

Buy more than one battery to extend your cruising range.

Resources & Support

We bought a Carbon 420 in Nov 2020, and have sailed it almost every week since then, sometimes twice a week! Alex is great to work with, answers every question, and is extremely knowledgeable. He truly loves the sport!

One of the first things we did was intentionally capsize it to see how hard it was to right... Almost too easy! It's super easy for 1 person to right. And the carbon mast is super light and easy to step. So glad we got the carbon version!

We find that it is highly stable, but very nimble. And it can really fly! We love that combination. It's fun and easy!

Some accessories we highly recommend:

Flextail pump. Cuts inflation time tremendously. And deflates fast to make storage really easy.

Upgraded shackles. Huge difference in knowing they are secure, easy to check, and so easy to turn. Worth it!

Front trampoline.

Rope ladder.

Outboard attachment.

Trolley wheels. Because we added weight with an electric motor, we made a telescoping extension that hooks over the trolley axle. Now we launch and retrieve easily even at a ramp. The boat just floats on and off the trolley. Super easy and fast!

Overall, we highly recommend the Carbon 420. It's perfect for us. We spend wonderful days on the water, sailing, exploring, snorkeling, and just loving the sound of water against the boat. And we definitely recommend Red Beard Sailing... Alex has the best service and the best prices!

So happy with this purchase four seasons in. It’s a serious boat with all the lines and controls exactly where you want them. The light weight makes it easy to go in the lightest wind, and the rugged engineering feels solid even when it’s up on one pontoon in 20 knots. One person can easily get it righted if you manage to flip it (which doesn’t happen often).

Alex has provided great service the whole way. I haven’t needed much, but he is responsive and knowledgeable. I have patched a pontoon, gotten some rigging replicated at West Marine, and attached a trolling motor to tool around when there’s no wind. All of that has been easy enough, and I see years of great sailing ahead of me in my Minicat 420.

Can’t say enough positive things about the boat and Red Beard.

I bought my Minicat 420 Laura Dekker edition from Alex in fall 2018. I didn't get it onto the water until summer of 2019, when I took it up north for two weeks of lake sailing. What a blast we had with this boat! The Minicat was much more fun to sail than I hoped, and more stable and easy to handle in unpredictable, gusty lake winds than I expected - we took it out almost every day, in wind that ranged from 6 to 22 kts. While the Sunfish sailors capsized around us we just zoomed across the lake, gleefully zipping through every unpredictable puff.

I've never sailed a cat before, only keelboats and cruisers, but tacking was straightforward and no hiking out was necessary even in big gusts (with two of us on the boat). Yet despite the stability the Minicat is a fast and fun sail. I would highly recommend it as a good boat for beginners - responsive enough to learn quickly but stable enough to not throw you in the water for every misstep.

The only drawback is assembly time - although you'll really appreciate how well-designed it is while putting it together! Even with Alex's lesson (wonderful and much needed) on how to assemble the boat our first solo attempt took 2 hours. It may take us many outings us to get the advertised 45 minute assembly time. So for me, the Minicat is going to be more a 'camping/vacation' trip boat than a 'go solo sailing for the day' boat. But that's what I really wanted it for - so I am perfectly okay with that.

I am a novice sailor, but a former wind-surfer...so I appreciate a bit of adrenaline. I love the MiniCat 420 for its stability, maneuverability, versatility, and of course portability. It sails great in light-winds, but also offers the potential for performance sailing in higher and more challenging conditions. I sail in and among the laser class at my local marina/yacht club, and the MiniCat is a definite head-turner against those starchier while sail dinghies. It also holds its own, or outperforms, depending on who is at the till. I have sailed my local lakes, and also off-shore in protected waters in Maine. It is simply a brilliant boat! Alex at Red Beard Sailing helped me set the boat up the first time (very helpful), and customer service has been first rate ever since. Highly recommend the boat and the company.

For a long time I have dreamed to own a sailboat, but don't have the space to have a towable one. Storage and transport were major concerns since I live an hour and a half from the nearest sailable lake. I learned about Minicat and was completely amazed about its features. Alex did a good job taking me and my family for a demo sail and the deal was closed the same day. Now we own a 420 emotion and it is our dream turned into reality. For novices like us, it took just a couple of hours on the water to learn by ourselves how to take the boat to where we want to go, it is very stable, fun and easy to sail. The service at Red Beard Sailing is not limited to the sale, we know we can count on them for whatever we need, five stars for sure!

MiniCat Sailboat Warranty MiniCat offers a 24-month warranty on the entire sailboat and a 7-year warranty on the hull skin material. These warranties cover material and workmanship defects that affect the performance of the boat. To register your boat, click here. To file a claim or for assistance with your MiniCat, please email us at [email protected] or give us a call at 410-705-5026.

MiniCat Full Line Sales Brochure MiniCat 420 Instinct Owner's Manual MiniCat 420 Emotion Owner's Manual MiniCat 420 Evoque Owner's Manual MiniCat 420 Laura Dekker Owner's Manual MiniCat 420 Carbon Owner's Manual

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One-Design Class Type: Dinghy

Was this boat built to be sailed by youth or adults? Youth

Approximately how many class members do you have? 2500

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About Club 420

The Club 420 is a two person dinghy which forms the base of many local, high school and collegiate programs in North America. Simple for beginning sailors and yet challenging enough for collegiate champions. The Club 420 offers more learning opportunities than any other double-handed boat. Over 5,000 Club 420s are sailed in youth, high school and collegiate programs all over the United States, Canada, Mexico and the Caribbean.

Boats Produced: 8600

Class boat builder(s):

Laser Performance Zim Sailing

Approximately how many boats are in the USA/North America? 5000

Where is your One-Design class typically sailed in the USA? List regions of the country:

East Coast, Gulf Coast, West Coast, Great Lakes, sprinkled throughout the middle of the country

Does this class have a spinnaker or gennaker? Yes

How many people sail as a crew including the helm?  2

Ideal combined weight of range of crew:  240-300

Boat Designed in  1970

Length (feet/inches): 13’9″

Beam: 5’4″

Weight of rigged boat without sails: 240

Mast Height:

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The Zim C420 is  the Club 420 of choice for yacht clubs, community sailing programs, and individuals. One-design sailors want the strongest, lightest, most durable boats and rigging available. We’ve met this demand with proven boat construction techniques and a race rigging package that ensure performance, strength, and durability. This durability has led to many happy repeat customers. The Zim 420 continues to prove itself on the course with victories at local, regional, National, and North American Championship regattas.

C420 CONSTRUCTION

• Toughened resin and plexus bond for superior strength and durability
• Colored gelcoat racing stripes on aft end of cockpit or traditional grey deck
• Matching smoke gray rudder blade and centerboard
• All through-deck mounted hardware is supported by tapped aluminum backing plates
• Shroud chain plate is a forged eye strap supported with an aluminum back-up bar under the rail
• Harken Carbo cleats and blocks
• Roller pins on shrouds instead of guy hooks
• Mylar centerboard gaskets
• Low drag bailer
• Round traveler bar

SAILS & RIGGING

• North Sails class approved mainsail, jib, and spinnaker
• Custom Spinnaker colors available
• Zim Race Rigging
• Dyneema main halyard for max hoist and low stretch
• Spliced single adjustment mainsheet bridle
• 16:1 Dyneema vang
• FSE Robline line package
• 2:1 rudder downhaul
• Pulley trapeze rings; handle and ring are both adjustable for gross and fine tuning
• Tapered aluminum spinnaker pole
• Dwyer aluminum mast and boom
• C420 – Club – $12,130.00
• C420 – Race – $12,235.00
• C420 – Pro – $12,880.00

Contact us to order your Zim 420:

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