vintage iwc yacht club review

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The return of the well-rounded gentleman.

Watch Collector’s Notebook — IWC’s original Yacht Club, an avant garde answer to the Datejust

One of my favorite vintage brands and one which I also feel is consistently undervalued is the International Watch Company of Schaffhausen, better known as simply IWC. Back in the day, every IWC watch had an in-house movement and their manual wind and automatic calibers were some of the best, most reliable and accurate machines on the market. With their bespoke Pelleton winding system , which was developed by  the marque’s famed technical director  Albert Pelleton in the early 1950s, IWC offered a solid alternative, if not also an implicit challenge, to Rolex’s longtime dominance of full rotor automatic  technology . IWC continued to develop their 85x auto calibers for nearly two decades until they reached what many experts consider the pinnacle with their legendary 8541B movement. And it is the 8541B that you find in IWC’s other implicit challenge to Rolex, the beautifully designed Yacht Club model.

Debuting right at the dawn of the funky 1970s when the Swiss watch industry would go somewhat design mad chasing rapidly changing tastes and fashions, the Yacht Club manages to be at once cutting edge and traditional. Making full use of the sweeping lines of the “C”-shape case, variations of which are also found in contemporaneous Omega Constellations and Heuer’s automatic Carrera, the Yacht Club’s heavy steel case is a perfectly proportioned 36mm X 44mm. That’s much bigger than the rather medium-sized C-shape Connie and obviously not as big as Heuer’s macho racing chronograph, so where it ends up is exactly in the same size bracket as Rolex’s evergreen, the Datejust. And that’s really the best analog and probably the exact watch IWC were gunning for. For if the Datejust was the icon of a never-changing design standard, the Yacht Club aimed to offer the same sort of elegance but with a bit of an avant garde twist for the modern man.

Hence the lugs sweep inward toward the bracelet rather than projecting out in a relatively straight line like the DJ, giving the dial extra prominence and pop. And what beautiful dials the Yacht Clubs had, from the classic beauty of starburst silver to moody, manly gray to my personal favorite, an astonishing blue that changes in hue ever so subtly depending on the angle at which its viewed. Note also the classy way the date discs are not one-size-fits-all for the colored dials but rather reverse printed with white numerals on the matching color background of the dial. Nice touch! The hands are luminous with black inlay and very easy to read and there is something that really appeals about the applied IWC logo of this period. I like it better than the earlier printed full script “International Watch Co.” alone and much more than the later boring printed block lettering, which still adorns their dials today.

The Yacht Club was also a departure for IWC in that prior to its introduction they produced only a few special models with a screw back case design, such as the anti-magnetic Ingenieur and the diver-centric Aquatimer. Clearly with its evocative, upscale name IWC felt it only right to give the Yacht Club the capabilities for excellent water resistance that a screwed back would provide. And if it doesn’t have the screw down Oyster-style crown of the Rolex Datejust, it nonetheless has a very water resistant and somewhat oversized push-in “Fish” crown. In fact, the original depth rating of the steel Yacht Club was 10 atm or 100 meters, certainly up to the capabilities of some sailing and rum & tonics by the pier afterwards . The inner case also incorporated a unique design to cushion the movement within for extra shock absorption above and beyond the standard Incabloc protection.

The Yacht Club was the forerunner of an entire line of “Club” watches that IWC planned to pitch to different aspects of the luxury set, and new models included the smallish, cushion-shaped Golf Club and the oversized, integrated bracelet Polo Club . Neither of these latter two models was successful, perhaps due to the beginning of the quartz onslaught or perhaps just because of their idiosyncratic designs. As a result, the Golf and especially the Polo are quite difficult to find today and command a premium, although I have a sneaking suspicion that they are more fun to hunt than to own and wear. Likewise, IWC later introduced an octagonal Yacht Club II with integrated bracelet. Almost always found with quartz movements, the Yacht Club II is another acquired taste to say the least, but the rare specimens with automatic movements are still quite sought after and pricey. It should be noted that by the time of the Yacht Club II, IWC had moved to outsource their movements as a cost saving measure rather than continue to produce them in-house, although they did often utilize excellent Jaeger-LeCoultre ebauches before dropping down to ETA movements for even more economy later on.

Catalogue image of automatic Yacht Club II models, ca. late 1970s

But one of the joys of the original Yacht Club is that it’s not such a scarce watch and it’s also rather more universally appealing than those other quirky relatives. It also won’t cost you an arm and a leg, about the same as a classic plexi crystal Datejust in fact (the Yacht Club also features a high domed plastic crystal for that unmistakable vintage look and feel but without cyclops magnifier). Which is not say that finding one that ticks all the boxes is de facto easy. As always, original dial condition is paramount in my book and you can expect to pay a small premium for a gray or especially the blue dial (make sure those date discs match!). Next, look for an unpolished case if possible, one that displays sharp original edges and factory original satin finishing, as well as its still-distinct  slim integrated polished bezel.  Additionally, the back should hopefully still show the outer serial number on the edge, which can sometimes be polished out or even worn away with time (that said, the SN is also duplicated inside the back, so not a major deal breaker).

Almost as important as the first two priorities in my opinion is to find the watch on its original signed bracelet. There are a couple of variations — “rice” grain, Oyster-style, etc — but the Yacht Club, with its distinctly tapered and somewhat short lugs, looks best on its bracelet with the specific flush fit 18mm end pieces and rather less streamlined on a strap. If you’re looking at a Yacht Club sans bracelet you should be paying under $2k. Variations of the Yacht Club also include a no-date version, as well as solid gold examples, which will usually only be found on a strap and are usually $3k+. As you might expect, matching original box & papers will tend to add value and are a nice bonus for the collector although, as the old saying goes, you can’t wear ’em.

For me, the standard ref. 1811 Yacht Club with date in steel hits all the high notes. It’s got that fantastic hacking, semi-quickset 25-jewel 8541B caliber ticking away accurately beneath the substantial case. It makes a great change of pace from other steel dress watches, with just enough presence and sporty elan to make it work with jeans or a suit. And while the “C”-shape case is not everyone’s cup of tea, I really like the lines and the way it presents on the wrist. It’s unusual enough to catch the eye and a pleasure to read the time, as well as a refreshingly distinctive design. Dare I say that it’s my personal cure for Datejust fatigue?

WATCH REVIEW IWC Portuguese Yacht Club

Iwc portuguese yacht club.

• beautiful and well-thought manufactured movement
• a sportswear look but refined
• good value for money
• the finishing of the movement is nice but can be enhanced
• a water resistance a bit to light
• was the “Yacht Club” writing necessary ?

Technical specifications

Editor's opinion 73/100

Emblematic to IWC with its sober and refined models, the Portuguese brand has enriched itself in 2010 with a new variation of “Yacht Club”. More massive and colorful, did the 2010 Portuguese watches give up their German harshness in order to become “fun” watches ?

A sporty and elegant style

We can first observe that the Yacht Club watches have gained stoutness : switching from 40,9mm to 45,5mm for 14,5mm thickness. Forgotten the shy chronographs , these Portuguese watches are designed to be noticed !

The thick rubber strap and the new crown pad are strengthening the “sport” style of this beauty. Some will see a concession to the fashion of body-built watches. But the Yacht Club remains harmonious. It has gained muscles without becoming overdeveloped.

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The polished finishing of the case is excellent.

The dial conserves the classic Portuguese DNA but has been enlivened with some touches of quite pleasant color and luminescent hands.

The navy atmosphere is subtly suggested with the indexes of the chronograph’s counter, which reminds a rudder. We can wonder why the designers thought it was useful to underline it by writing “Yacht Club” in the seconds index…

The movement: caliber IWC 89360

These novelties are quite pleasant, but the best is still to come. The new manufacture caliber 89360 in itself is a pretty good reason to be tempted by this watch !

There are some highlights of the IWC calibers (the Pellaton winding system, the anti-shock, visible column wheel) that are matched with an original architecture. The “Flyback chronograph” (you can settle it back to zero and start it again by pushing the push-button) counts the hours/minutes thanks to two concentric hands in order to preserve the traditional two-counter position of the Portuguese counters.

With a big diameter and quite thick, this movement is really nice looking with its well-hemstitched bridges : we feel like diving into the core of the mechanism. The decoration is really pleasant, even if the finishing remains a little “industrial” (because of the absence of chamfering in particular).

What to remember

More than a simple variation of the classic Portuguese watches, the Yacht Club is an entirely new model. With its high manufactured and high quality movement, also its dynamical looks, it has every elements to please those who think its older sister a little too wise.

With a price around 10.000 €, the first price is high but the watch making services are worth it. In this range of price, lots of concurrent feel satisfied with less manufactured caliber, even more or less optimized ETA caliber!

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A Smaller IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Still Looms Large

IWC tweaked the size of its sporty Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph — and now it’s even better than before.

By Jason Heaton

1 original photo

When Boston native Florentine Ariosto Jones arrived in Switzerland in the mid-1860s to set up a watch company based on the modern industrial techniques of the American watch industry, he found little welcome in Geneva. So he headed east to Schaffhausen, where he found a small community of watchmakers who built timepieces in the German tradition — less artisanal flourish, more overbuilt sturdiness — and a river to power a factory. It seemed an ideal place to put down stakes; Jones settled there, built workshops on the bank of the Rhine and called his new company the International Watch Company.

Throughout the 20th century, IWC watches evolved from its first sturdy pocketwatches to the pilot’s watches worn by both German and British air force flyers to groundbreaking dive watches and antimagnetic scientists’ timepieces. The overriding theme of all of these watches was rugged and innovative practicality. In the 1930s, some Portuguese watch retailers approached IWC with a request to build a handful of oversized watches with accurate pocket watch movements. These large wristwatches went against the trend of the day, which favored smaller diameters, but swimming against the tide was not unusual for IWC and the Portuguese went on to become perhaps IWC’s most recognizable and beloved watch line.

Any deeper and it dips into dive watch territory, a place no skipper wants to be during an afternoon on the water.

At the SIHH watch fair in January, IWC debuted a refresh of its Portugieser ( auf Deutsch, natürlich ) family of watches. Cases returned to traditional design cues, with more graceful lines and some vintage-inspired dials. New movements and complications were added, like a beautiful annual calendar and a halo timepiece, the grand complication. One piece carried over from the previous generation is the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, a decidedly sporty watch with a name that is a nod to both the historic Portugieser family and a 1970s IWC called the Yacht Club.

IWC has always been known for its oversized watches and the last iteration of the Yacht Club Chrono was no exception at a burly 45mm. But the new version received a slight tweak and now comes in at a more svelte 43.5mm, which doesn’t seem like a big change, but on the wrist it is a far better-proportioned and more comfortable watch. The movement inside is IWC’s innovative in-house 89365 calibre, with a healthy 68-hour power reserve and a combined hour/minute counter that makes elapsed time read-off intuitive and quick. With its seafaring name, it stands to reason that IWC fits the watch with a rubber strap and a screw-in crown, giving it a respectable 60 meters of water resistance. Any deeper and it dips into dive watch territory, a place no skipper wants to be during an afternoon on the water.

Since 2011, IWC has been the official timekeeper of the round-the-world sailing Volvo Ocean Race, and the Yacht Club Chronograph, the watch given to the team that sets the record for the fastest 24-hour time during the race. It is a fitting watch for this epic race, in name and design, though, bashing through 40-foot waves rounding Cape Horn, we might be inclined to stow it in our kit bag, given its $12,000 sticker price.

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IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 Review: A Timepiece of Elegance

by Thomas Jentzsch on June 26, 2023

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Reference: IW390502) is a timepiece that exudes elegance and sophistication. It is a watch that is both functional and stylish, making it a popular choice among watch enthusiasts and collectors. The Portugieser collection was first introduced by IWC in the 1930s, and since then, it has become one of the brand's most iconic and recognizable lines. The Yacht Club Chronograph is a modern interpretation of the classic Portugieser design, featuring a sleek and sporty look that is perfect for those who enjoy water sports and outdoor activities. In this review, we will take a closer look at the features and design of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, and explore why it is a must-have for any watch enthusiast.

Brand Summary

IWC is a luxury Swiss watch brand that has been around since 1868. The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is a high-end timepiece that is designed for sailors and yachting enthusiasts. This watch features a sleek and stylish design, with a blue dial and silver hands. It also has a chronograph function, which allows the wearer to measure elapsed time. The watch is powered by an automatic movement and is water-resistant up to 60 meters. Overall, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is a premium watch that combines style and functionality, making it a great choice for anyone who loves sailing or the ocean.

Get the full Technical Details –>

Watch Details

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Reference: IW390502) is a sophisticated and sporty timepiece that combines the elegance of the iconic Portugieser line with the functionality of a chronograph. Released in 2010, this model is part of the esteemed Portugieser collection, known for its timeless design and exceptional craftsmanship. With its nautical-inspired aesthetics and reliable performance, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 has gained popularity among watch enthusiasts and individuals who appreciate a versatile and stylish timepiece.

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 is widely available and can be purchased at authorized IWC boutiques and selected retailers worldwide. Its availability and distribution make it easily accessible to those seeking a high-quality and prestigious timepiece.

Encased in a robust stainless steel case with a diameter of 43.5mm, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 exudes a sense of refinement and durability. The case is complemented by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, ensuring clear visibility of the dial while providing reliable protection against daily wear and tear.

Powering this exceptional timepiece is the precise and reliable IWC Caliber 89361 automatic movement. With a power reserve of approximately 68 hours, the watch ensures accurate timekeeping and convenience for the wearer. The movement can be admired through the transparent case back, showcasing the craftsmanship and attention to detail.

The dial of the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 features a clean and legible design, with applied silver hour markers and hands. The chronograph subdials at 6 and 12 o’clock provide additional functionality and add to the watch’s sporty appeal. The date window at 3 o’clock adds practicality to the watch’s functionality.

With a water resistance rating of 60 meters (6 bar), the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 offers versatility and durability for various water activities. It can withstand splashes, rain, and even swimming, but it is not suitable for diving or other water sports.

In terms of pricing, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 is positioned in the higher end of the luxury watch market. Prices may vary depending on factors such as location and retailer, but prospective buyers can expect to invest between $10,000 and $15,000 USD for this exceptional timepiece.

In summary, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 is a sophisticated and sporty watch that combines elegant design with exceptional functionality. Its widespread availability, combined with its competitive price range, makes it an attractive option for those seeking a high-quality and prestigious timepiece. With its stainless steel case, refined dial, and reliable movement, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 represents IWC’s commitment to creating watches that offer enduring style and exceptional performance. Whether you’re on land or at sea, this timepiece is a testament to IWC’s dedication to craftsmanship and luxury.

Key Features

• Stainless steel case
• Blue dial with white subdials
• Automatic movement
• 44.6mm case diameter
• Water-resistant up to 60 meters
• Chronograph function with flyback feature
• Date display at 3 o’clock
• Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Navy blue rubber strap with folding clasp
• Power reserve of 68 hours
• Stylish and sophisticated design
• High-quality materials and craftsmanship
• Reliable and accurate Swiss-made movement
• Chronograph function for precise timing
• Easy-to-read dial with clear markers and hands
• Comfortable and durable leather strap
• Great value for the price compared to other luxury watches
• Expensive price point
• Relatively large case size may not be suitable for all wrist sizes
• Water resistance rating of only 60 meters may not be sufficient for serious water activities
• Limited color options for the dial and strap
• May not appeal to those who prefer a more minimalist or understated design

Comparable Watches

When it comes to finding comparable watches to the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, there are a few brands that come to mind. One such brand is Omega, which offers the Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph as a viable alternative. This watch boasts a similar sporty aesthetic and features a chronograph function, as well as a date display and water resistance up to 600 meters.

Another brand that offers comparable watches is TAG Heuer, with their Aquaracer Chronograph being a popular choice. This watch also features a chronograph function and water resistance up to 300 meters, making it a great option for water sports enthusiasts. Additionally, the Aquaracer Chronograph has a sleek and modern design that is sure to turn heads.

Finally, Breitling offers the Superocean Heritage Chronograph as a comparable watch to the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph. This watch features a similar nautical-inspired design and boasts water resistance up to 200 meters. It also has a chronograph function and a date display, making it a practical and stylish choice for any occasion.

Ultimately, when comparing watches to the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, it is important to consider factors such as design, functionality, and water resistance in order to find the best fit for your needs.

Watch Collectors Opinions

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Reference: IW390502) has received generally positive reviews from watch collectors and reviewers. One of the most notable features of this timepiece is its elegant and sophisticated design, which is reminiscent of classic sailing watches. Many collectors have praised the watch's attention to detail, such as the polished and brushed stainless steel case and the blue dial with contrasting white sub-dials, which give the watch a timeless and elegant look.

Another aspect of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph that has received praise is its impressive functionality. The watch features a chronograph function that is accurate and easy to use, as well as a date display and a flyback function that allows the wearer to reset the chronograph without stopping it first. Additionally, the watch is water-resistant up to 60 meters, making it a practical choice for those who enjoy water sports or spending time on boats.

Overall, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph has been well-received by watch collectors and reviewers alike. Its combination of classic design and modern functionality make it a versatile and stylish timepiece that is sure to appeal to a wide range of collectors. Whether you're a seasoned watch enthusiast or a newcomer to the hobby, this watch is definitely worth considering for your collection.

In conclusion, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Reference: IW390502) is a remarkable timepiece that showcases the brand's commitment to quality and craftsmanship. Its elegant design, exceptional functionality, and reliable performance make it a versatile and stylish choice for watch enthusiasts and individuals who appreciate luxury and prestige.

With its nautical-inspired aesthetics and sporty appeal, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 is a standout among the esteemed Portugieser collection. Its availability and distribution worldwide make it easily accessible to those seeking a high-quality and prestigious timepiece.

The watch's robust stainless steel case, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and precise automatic movement ensure durability, visibility, and accuracy. The clean and legible dial with chronograph subdials and date window adds practicality and functionality to the watch's design.

Although positioned in the higher end of the luxury watch market, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 is a worthwhile investment for those seeking a timeless and exceptional timepiece. Its enduring style and exceptional performance represent IWC's dedication to creating watches that stand the test of time.

Overall, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 is a testament to the brand's commitment to craftsmanship and luxury. Whether you're on land or at sea, this watch is a stylish and reliable companion that is sure to impress.

Q: What sets the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) apart from other sports chronograph watches? A: The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) stands out with its elegant and sophisticated design combined with its robust sports chronograph functionality. Its nautical-inspired elements, such as the bold blue dial, regatta countdown feature, and water resistance, make it a perfect companion for sailing and water activities.

Q: Is the strap of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) interchangeable? Can I switch it to a different style or material? A: Yes, the strap of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) is interchangeable, offering versatility and customization options. You can easily swap the original strap for a different style or material, such as a rubber strap or a fabric NATO strap, allowing you to adapt the watch to various occasions and preferences.

Q: Does the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) feature a flyback chronograph function? A: Absolutely! The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) includes a flyback chronograph function, allowing you to quickly reset and restart the chronograph with a single push of a button. This feature is particularly useful for timing multiple events or laps without having to stop and reset the chronograph each time.

Q: Can the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) be worn for swimming and diving? A: The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) has a water resistance rating of 60 meters (200 feet), making it suitable for recreational swimming and water activities. However, it is not designed for professional diving. Its water resistance ensures the watch’s durability and protection against water-related exposure.

Q: What materials are used in the construction of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502)? A: The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) features a stainless steel case that provides durability and a refined appearance. The watch also incorporates a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, protecting the dial from daily wear and tear. These high-quality materials contribute to the watch’s overall quality and longevity.

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Hands-on with the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390703

Charlotte Harris

The stainless steel sports watch continues to reign supreme in the realm of horology and for IWC Schaffhausen, their Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph leads the genre in their portfolio. We’re very fortunate that for this week’s hands-on review, we’re getting up close and personal with one of the same; the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph found under reference IW390703. That’s the one with the two-toned steel and 18ct rose gold case, a crisp white dial and full metal bracelet.  

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club 

Original Vintage Highley Genuine Leather Watch Strap - Light Brown

Original vintage highley genuine leather watch strap - reef, original vintage highley genuine leather watch strap - reddish brown.

The story of the IWC Portugieser is one of my favourites. It all began during the 1930’s when two Portuguese businessmen approached IWC with a request for a large, highly accurate wristwatch with the precision of a marine chronometer. In response, IWC introduced the first Portugieser watch in 1939, it boasted a large case and a pocket watch movement with high levels of accuracy. It was a clean, timeless-looking watch with a simple dial, Arabic numerals and slim leaf-shaped hands – characteristics still well-known in today’s Portugieser collection. 

Fast forward to the 1960s, and the demand for yachting and sailing watches was growing so IWC decided to merge the elegance of the Portugieser with the functionality of a nautical timepiece, giving rise to the IWC Yacht Club collection. The Yacht Club models are ultimately the sporty brothers of the dressier Portugieser designs, offering increased water resistance and rubber strap options. 

2020 was a fairly big year for the Portugieser family as the collection was completely singled out by the Swiss watchmaker to be revamped and revitalised. Proportions were reduced ever so slightly, improvements were made to the glass and more importantly, almost the entirety of the collection now utilised in-house movements, further increasing the value propositions of these watches.  

These updates also included those in the Yacht Club line-up and one of the first models to be launched as part of the updated series was reference IW390703, the very model we’re getting hands-on with today. 

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390703 

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronographs are the biggest models in the Portugieser family, which makes sense since these are designed to be robust, water resistant sports watches after all. That said, the dimensions do feel a little outdated and this was my initial reaction when I tried on the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390703 for myself. 

I’m not someone who can pull off a watch larger than 42mm, but even so, the 44.6mm width of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph feels big even for a sports watch. These days, people seem to be opting for slightly smaller watches between the 36mm and 42mm mark. That said, this is a watch that packs a punch in its visuals and the sizing assists with that – especially its tall 53.5mm lug-to-lug size. 

While tall and wide, something that did surprise me about the case was the height. It appears slimmer than the 14.3mm dimensions marked on the watch’s specifications. The downturned, tear-drop shaped lugs help with this as does the finishing used on the stainless steel components. In this instance, the case sides and steel bracelet links are brushed while the top side of the lugs, 18ct rose gold bezel, crown guards, and rose gold bracelet links are polished. 

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390703 watch lives up to its name as a nautical companion and offers a 100 metre water resistant rating assisted by a screw down crown with integrated pushers. On either side of the crown, two classically shaped piston chronograph pushers allow you to manipulate the complication on display. There’s also sapphire crystal glass on the top and back.  

The dial of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390703 watch is really nicely executed. Despite displaying a whole lot of functionality, it still manages to keep things clean and tidy. The display is white and set with raised, 18ct rose gold Arabic numerals each paired with their own slightly luminescent index. To match, the leaf-shaped central hands for the hours and minutes are luminous and sit beside a slim chronograph seconds hand in 18ct rose gold. 

The display also presents a 60 minute track around the periphery which leads down to the Portugieser’s traditional printed railroad track in black. To match, black printing is used on the scales for the small seconds, joined by a bright red hand and integrated date window, and the clever 12 o’clock counter for both the chronograph’s minutes and hours. It is ingenious integrations like this that helps to keep the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph looking so tidy. 

Fuelling the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390703 watch is the in-house 89361 automatic winding movement. This is where more of the updates for the Portugieser can be found. It comes with a four pawl, rather than a two pawl, Pellaton winding system and arrives with a 68 hour power reserve when fully wound. There are also 38 jewels, a frequency of 28,800vph and some very attractive Côtes de Genève decoration visible through the case back.  

Before today, I always thought of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club as sporty and nautical, as it should be with a name like that. So, when reference IW390703 arrived on, I was surprised at just how dressy it wore. We all know a strap can change the look of a watch dramatically, and that’s definitely the case here. The two-toned stainless steel and 18ct rose gold bracelet makes this watch feel flashy and luxurious. 

Don’t let that put you off though. The addition of the bracelet allows this model to be an almost perfect blend of some of IWC’s more aggressive sports watches and their more stereotypically sophisticated dress watches. Plus, if you do prefer a more casual, laid-back look, you could easily swap out this bracelet for one of rubber or textile. 

Conclusion  

There have been several occasions in my career where I have had to pinch myself to remind myself my job is real. Being sent an IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph to review, one in 18ct rose gold with full two-toned bracelet, was one of these occasions. I’ve not had much hands-on time with IWC before, so this was a real treat.  

It’s a beautiful watch with incredible finishing and a top-end movement to match. Reference IW390703 is definitely the dressiest model out of the current line-up, but it’s a wonderful example of sports elegance and I have no doubt it will suit those with a love of large, flashy watches. While it might not be one to recommend to newbies in the watch collecting world, or those with smaller wrists, it’s certainly one deserving of many collector’s bucket lists. 

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390703 is part of the Swiss watchmaker’s permanent collection and is available for £17,800. 

Technical Specifications: 

• Brand: IWC Schaffhausen 
• Model: Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390703  
• Price: £17,800 
• Material: Stainless steel & 18ct rose gold 
• Movement: In-house calibre 89361 automatic winding 
• Complications: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph seconds, minutes and hours 
• Dial: White with 18ct rose gold hands and numerals 
• Size: 44.6mm wide, 14.3mm tall 
• Strap: Two-toned bracelet 
• Water Resistance: 100 metres 
• Glass: Sapphire crystal  

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About the Author: Charlotte Harris

Writing and watches are two of my biggest passions in life so being able to unite them on a daily basis is a wonderful thing. I hope through my writing that I can bring a fresh, feminine perspective on the watch space and encourage more men and women to get excited about all that’s happening.

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IWC Yacht Club

1972 vintage IWC Yacht Club 811AD, automatic movement and with beads of rise GF stell band.

For a collector, having at least one of these vintage IWC Yacht Club is a must. It is one of the last representative of the golden age of mechanical wrist watches right before the quartz crisis. While the IWC Yacht Club was probably one of the best selling IWC models in the pre-quartz history of IWC, everything afterwards was more or less a commercial disaster be it the other club watches (Polo Club, Golf Club) or the legendary Ingenieur SL 1832.

One of my favorite vintage brands and one which I also feel is consistently undervalued is the IWC. Back in the day, every IWC watch had an in-house movement and their manual wind and automatic calibers were some of the best, most reliable and accurate machines on the market. With their bespoke Pelleton winding system, which was developed by the marques famed technical director Albert Pelleton in the early 1950s, IWC offered a solid alternative, if not also an implicit challenge, to Rolexs longtime dominance of full rotor automatic technology . IWC continued to develop their 85x auto calibers for nearly two decadesuntil they reached what many experts consider the pinnacle with their legendary 8541B movement.

International Watch Co., also known as IWC, is a luxury Swiss watch manufacturer located in Schaffhausen, Switzerland, and founded by American watchmaker Florentine Ariosto Jones in 1868.

In 1991 IWC director Gnter Blmlein founded the LMH Group with its headquarters in Schaffhausen. With a 100% stake in IWC, 60% in Jaeger-LeCoultre and 90% in the Saxony-based watchmaking company of A. Lange & Shone , the Group employed some 1440 persons.

In July 2000, LMH was acquired by Richemont , a Zug-based luxury goods group, for CHF 2.8 bn. Despite the takeover by Richemont, IWC was guaranteed that it would continue to be managed by the same executives from the LMH Group.

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Review IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown”

IWC Schaffhausen  and  Orlebar Brown have announced back in July their collaboration piece, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” . Due to the travelling and general restriction imposed by the infamous COVID19, I have seen the watch in the metal just at the end of August. Even if the summer is over, the “Orlebar Brown” Portugieser Yacht Club deserves to be presented – a lovely addition in the Portugieser Collection and a nice collaboration. 

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown”

I loved this watch from its digital launch. So I was very happy to finally get to see it at IWC Geneva Boutique during the Geneva Watch Days. The watch looks much better in the metal than the pictures reveal so if you are interested, I recommend to see it live.

Portugieser at heart, Portugieser in the look

The Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is one of those more special Portugieser – while keeping the known general aspects, some details are personalised by the Orlebar Brown collaboration.

The watch comes in a large 44.6 mm stainless steel case. Its dimensions are not obvious, the Edition “Orlebar Brown” wearing, as all the Portugieser large pieces, smaller than expected.

The case is designed to fit comfortable a large variety of wrist sizes. The caseband integrates the inward bent lugs. Even the brushing is extended on the lugs’ sides for a homogenous look. The rest of the surfaces are mirror polished. The strap integration is realised without any empty spaces.

The IWC Probus Scafusia decorated crown is surrounded by a raised polished crown protection. The protection bump also integrates the chrono pushers. The pushers have a wide but relatively thin topper. The entire appearance is nicely designed. The case details are quite handsome.

One of the eye-catching details of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is the strap. The blue rubber strap with textile inlay looks charming and offer very comfortable wear. It contributes to the smaller wear of the elegantly-proportioned case.

The buckle bears the sign of the IWC and Orlebar Brown collaboration deeply engraved in the metal. This buckle offers a secure sit on the wrist and it is a nice combination for the watch and strap.

A dial inspired by sea and sailing

The IWC Yacht Club “Orlebar Brown” has a gorgeous dial combining bleu-marine, white and red. With a vertical layout, the watch has a handsome face. The 12 o’clock areal presents the 60 minutes and 12 hours chronograph totaliser. The stepped down sub-dial presents two registers: the minutes counter on a circular pattern with white and red printing; the hours’ counter is central with printing on a flat surface. The elements are well delimited and offer good legibility. The chronograph’s seconds indication is realised with a central red hand that runs against the white inner bezel with blue printing.

The time display uses central hours and minutes elongated leaf hands with skeletonised centre and SuperLuminova fill. The hours’ indexes have double representation: applied metal Arabic numeral with the Portugieser known font and short baton indexes with SuperLuminova fill – another rather familiar detail. The minutes use a white printed railtrack that can also serve as an indication for the central chrono hands for an ease in legibility.

The lower side of the dial, at 6 o’clock, presents the running seconds. The subdial is subtly recessed and it is decorated with a circular pattern in the same granulation as the one met at the chrono’s minutes’ counter. The indexes and numerals are printed in blue. The date is printed in black on a white background and can be easily observed via a windowed aperture, as part of the small seconds’ dial.

As additional decoration, the dial of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” bears the name of the brand at 3 o’clock and the “Yacht Club” name at 9 o’clock. The Swiss-made marking is displayed at 6 o’clock as a break in the minute’s railtrack.

Calibre 89361 – a classic IWC movement

The Orlebar Brown Yacht Club is powered by the impressive Calibre 89361. This automatic movement powered by a 4Hz balance wheel offers an impressive set of features like the flyback chrono, hacking seconds, quick set date and a long power reserve of 68 hours due to its double barrel design and bi-directional winding.

Calibre 89361 is used in several IWC families for chronographs: Ingenieur, Da Vinci, Aquatimer , Pilot and, of course, Portugieser . The movement uses a double-clutch design with a vertical clutch for coupling and a column wheel for actuation. The combination of the two decreases the wear of the gear train with an increase of reliability over time. The system also helps the overall chronometry by decreasing the loss of amplitude by the chrono’s activation. Looking at the winding mechanism, I was wondering if this is the four pawl system patented by Jean-Francois Mojon and Norberto Perucchi fifteen years ago?

The movement does not particularly excel on the finishes side. Mostly industrial but fine and well-executed, the adornment of the Calibre 89361 deserves a look through the exhibition case back.

It has the looks, it has the brains

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is a beautiful watch with a pleasant layout and nice colour scheme. The look can be overshadowed only by the technically impressive in-house movement, the Calibre 89361. The back offers a compelling view too.

Definitively, it has a sporty appearance. Regardless if worn as a daily driver, at the beach or by sailing, the watch offers comfortable wear even for smaller wrists.  I have an 18cm/7inch wrist and I usually tend to stop at a diametre of 41-42mm. But I didn’t realise how big the watch actually is. So a strong point for a small wrist to give it a chance.

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” Technical Specifications and Price

REF. IW390704

• Chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds
• Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock
• Flyback function
• Date display
• Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
• Small hacking seconds
• 89361 Calibre
• IWC-manufactured movement
• Automatic, self-winding
• 68 hours Power Reserve
• Frequency 28800.0 vph (4.0 Hz)
• 299 Components
• Côtes de Genève, perlage
• Stainless steel case
• Diameter 44.6  mm
• Height 14.3  mm
• Screw-in crown
• See-through sapphire glass back
• Water-resistance 6 bar
• Blue dial with luminescence
• Blue rubber strap with textile inlay
• Strap width 22 mm
• 11.800 € , Price includes taxes and shipping.

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