sailboat data tayana 37

Great choice! Your favorites are temporarily saved for this session. Sign in to save them permanently, access them on any device, and receive relevant alerts.

• Sailboat Guide

Tayana 37 is a 41 ′ 11 ″ / 12.8 m monohull sailboat designed by Robert Perry and built by Ta Yang Yacht Building Co. Ltd. starting in 1976.

• 8 / 43 Deltaville, VA, US 1979 Tayana 37 $157,000 USD View
• 9 / 43 Port Angeles, WA, US 1976 Tayana 37 $49,500 USD View
• 10 / 43 Deltaville, VA, US 1979 Tayana 37 $157,000 USD View
• 11 / 43 Port Angeles, WA, US 1976 Tayana 37 $49,500 USD View
• 12 / 43 Deltaville, VA, US 1979 Tayana 37 $157,000 USD View
• 13 / 43 Port Angeles, WA, US 1976 Tayana 37 $49,500 USD View
• 14 / 43 Deltaville, VA, US 1979 Tayana 37 $157,000 USD View
• 15 / 43 Port Angeles, WA, US 1976 Tayana 37 $49,500 USD View
• 16 / 43 Deltaville, VA, US 1979 Tayana 37 $157,000 USD View
• 17 / 43 Port Angeles, WA, US 1976 Tayana 37 $49,500 USD View
• 18 / 43 Deltaville, VA, US 1979 Tayana 37 $157,000 USD View
• 19 / 43 Port Angeles, WA, US 1976 Tayana 37 $49,500 USD View
• 20 / 43 Deltaville, VA, US 1979 Tayana 37 $157,000 USD View
• 21 / 43 Port Angeles, WA, US 1976 Tayana 37 $49,500 USD View
• 22 / 43 Deltaville, VA, US 1979 Tayana 37 $157,000 USD View
• 23 / 43 Port Angeles, WA, US 1976 Tayana 37 $49,500 USD View
• 24 / 43 Deltaville, VA, US 1979 Tayana 37 $157,000 USD View
• 25 / 43 Port Angeles, WA, US 1976 Tayana 37 $49,500 USD View
• 26 / 43 Deltaville, VA, US 1979 Tayana 37 $157,000 USD View
• 27 / 43 Port Angeles, WA, US 1976 Tayana 37 $49,500 USD View
• 28 / 43 Deltaville, VA, US 1979 Tayana 37 $157,000 USD View
• 29 / 43 Port Angeles, WA, US 1976 Tayana 37 $49,500 USD View
• 30 / 43 Port Angeles, WA, US 1976 Tayana 37 $49,500 USD View
• 31 / 43 Deltaville, VA, US 1979 Tayana 37 $157,000 USD View
• 32 / 43 Port Angeles, WA, US 1976 Tayana 37 $49,500 USD View
• 33 / 43 Deltaville, VA, US 1979 Tayana 37 $157,000 USD View
• 34 / 43 Deltaville, VA, US 1979 Tayana 37 $157,000 USD View
• 35 / 43 Port Angeles, WA, US 1976 Tayana 37 $49,500 USD View
• 36 / 43 Deltaville, VA, US 1979 Tayana 37 $157,000 USD View
• 37 / 43 Port Angeles, WA, US 1976 Tayana 37 $49,500 USD View
• 38 / 43 Deltaville, VA, US 1979 Tayana 37 $157,000 USD View
• 39 / 43 Port Angeles, WA, US 1976 Tayana 37 $49,500 USD View
• 40 / 43 Port Angeles, WA, US 1976 Tayana 37 $49,500 USD View
• 41 / 43 Deltaville, VA, US 1979 Tayana 37 $157,000 USD View
• 42 / 43 Port Angeles, WA, US 1976 Tayana 37 $49,500 USD View
• 43 / 43 Port Angeles, WA, US 1976 Tayana 37 $49,500 USD View

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

From BlueWaterBoats.org :

The Tayana 37 is perhaps the most successful semi-custom cruising yacht to be built. It was designed by Bob Perry and introduced in 1975 as a response to the Westsail 32 which were selling in enormous numbers. Today looking back, with the boat still in production with a boat count of 588, most still sailing, and an active and owners community, it’s very apparent that Perry has succeeded.

One could say the yacht was designed to ignite imaginations of tropical sunsets in exotic locations; think oodles of teak and a beautiful custom interior, wrapped into traditional double-ender hull with a full keel. Beneath the alluring romance, you’ll find a boat that is solidly built, and indeed many Tayana 37s can be found on the blue water cruising circuit around the world.

When in June of 1973 Time Magazine featured a four page spread on the “cruising life” with a photo of the Westsail 32 it was clear that this diminutive boat had caught the imagination of a generation. They sold like hotcakes and the cruising life came out of the fringes and into the mainstream. Meanwhile, fresh from the success of his groundbreaking Valiant 40 and having more recently designed the CT 54 Perry was approached by Bob Berg, former owner of Flying Dutchman Yachts in Seattle, to design a boat to capitalize on the success of the Westsail. It is said that the success of the Westsail was not that it was the right boat at the right time, it was also the right style; it was exactly what Americans thought a cruising boat should look like. This may explain the Tayana’s copious amounts of teak, her traditional full keel, and double ender style.

The boatyard that was originally selected to build the boat was Ta Chaio Brothers of Taiwan, builders of CT yachts. Interestingly, they declined thinking the boat would not be a commercial success. Thus the contract to build the boat was passed to Ta Yang, another high quality Taiwanese boatbuilding concern.

The boat, which was first known as the “CT 37”, was introduced in 1975 and offered as a semi-custom boat, with all manner of internal options and layouts. The rig was offered with options of cutter or ketch, however cutters were the fashion of the day and only 20 boats were built as ketches. In 1979 the CT 37 name was discontinued, instead boat inherited an offshoot of the Ta Yang name, changing to the Tayana 37.

The Tayana 37 continues to be in production today in very low numbers, they have declined in sales as buyer tastes have favored boats with more expansive interiors, stern entry, and avoidance of higher maintenance teak on the exterior. However the Tayana 37 remains popular in the used boat market, at the time of writing the Tayana Owners Association reports the latest hull number is 588 or 589.

Boat Configuration

The Tayana 37 is a classic full keel double-ender which when we look back today marks the start of modern design philosophy for full keel boats. Perry took a very traditional Atkins 1930s inspired design and worked his “boatspeed” magic firstly by cutting away forefoot of the keel, a common technique to reduce wetted area with gains in maneuverability. He then connected the keel to the bilge of the hull as a distinctly separate surface without the traditional wine-glass blend, which tends to help with close-windedness and form stability. Other deviations to the Archer theme included his own flavor of a canoe stern which had worked well in his radical at the time Valiant 40 design as well as opting for a modern inboard rudder over the traditional aft hanging rudder that Archer used.

Most boats are configured with cutter rigs carrying a lot of sail area with the help of a bowsprit. Those with a keen eye may notice the mast position quite far aft from the usual position on most yachts and this has been the cause for some windward helm issues which in the early days was corrected by raking the mast forward. It’s rare to find a Tayana 37 sporting the optional ketch rig which Perry notes is a pity as he thought the ketch examples were particularly fast and well balanced.

On deck, you will find lots of teak, some owners have removed the teak in order to reduce maintenance. The side decks are wide. There are two deck versions, the first being designed by Perry, which was later revised by Ta Yang which according to Perry is far nicer, more aesthetic, with a better cockpit. Most boats have the original Perry designed cockpit. Both versions sport small volume cockpits well suited to mitigating the risk of the cockpit flooding from large following seas. The cockpit has been described as safe secure with high coamings. Visibility forward from the helm is usually impeded by on most boats by butterfly hatches, boom gallows, and mid boom sheeting.

Going below deck you will find a high quality interior reflecting some of the best boatbuilding craftsmanship to come out of Taiwan. The interiors are all semi-custom and it’s unlikely to find two boats identical. While some interiors were well suited to blue water sailing others were not so functional. Blue Water Sailing Magazine writes, “We have seen some interiors that were simply inappropriate for a seagoing boat. Truth is many people who ordered new Tayanas did not have the knowledge to make the choices that were required of them, and either made bad choices or tried to fit too much into a hull already restricted by its design”.

Of note is the location of the fuel tank. In the original design, Perry located the 90 gallon tank below the saloon settee, but Ta Yang relocated them forward to in the fore peak, with the idea of creating more stowage space in the saloon. A full tank weighing 700 pounds so far forward has resulted in trim problems and hobby-horsing. It’s reported a some owners have relocated their fuel tank back to the original spot that Perry intended.

Construction

The Tayana 37 hull is built from solid GRP, generous amounts of glass is used, the hull is 3/8″ thick at its sheer. Perry has been quoted as saying there has never been any consistent structural problems with the boat. The deck is balsa cored to save on topside weight. The ballast is cast iron and internal to the keel cavity and glassed over. The hull-deck join is built into a strong hollow box section, which forms a high standing bulwark.

Sailing Charateristics

One would not expect the Tayana 37 to progress with much vigor from a fleeting glance, however the Bob Perry makeover of the traditional Atkins configuration gives the boat a new lease of life. The boat performs faster than similar boats of this period, especially in a fresh breeze.

The Tayana is relatively tender initially. The first reef is usually thrown in at about 18 knots, in 20-25 knots it’s usually a staysail and the single reefed main. The boat tracks well to windward, but its forte is off the wind, particularly in a broad reach; ideal for the trades.

The cockpit is dry, Tayana 37 owner Rolland Hartstrom writes of a passage between from San Francisco to San Pedro in Mar 2009, “I surfed down 20 footers in this boat doing 14 knots, and they were breaking about 3 feet of white water on top; never took a drop of water in the cockpit”.

Probably the most common bugbear of the Tayana 37 under sail is its often cited weather helm in boats configured with cutter rigs. Many of these problems have been corrected through the years by their owners, some by raking the mast forward. Harvey Karten from the Tayana Owners Association notes, “When properly rigged with a good adjustable traveler and well made sails, rather than their original factory configuration, the much reported weather helm is no longer a problem.”

Buyers Notes

There is an enthusiastic and active owners association with a wealth of information and tips to share, well worth contacting prior to purchase. Particular areas for inspection are listed below:

• Teak decks have proved high maintenance, many boats have had their teak removed which is considered an advantage.
• Look for delamination around through deck fitting, the balsa cored deck is susceptible to abuse.
• Water tanks are made of black iron and are prone to rusting over time, check for leaks.
• Some boats have fuel tanks relocated back into their proper amidships intended location, its a recommended modification.
• Glaring inconsistencies between boats have been noted
• Boats before 1981 should have their wiring and standing rigging inspected closely.
• Early boats had spreaders made from spruce which can be susceptible to dry rot, alloy spreaders on later boats are an advantage.
• There have been reports of leaking from the scuppers and hawsepipes, this problem has been solved in later models by glassing the bulwark from the insides.

As of 2010 asking prices range from $55k-$115k USD.

Links, References and Further Reading

» Tayana Owners Association, information, discussion group and links . » Tayana Owners Association Google Group, discussions on Tayana boats » Tayana UK Corporate website, Tayana 37 brochure and pictures . » Good Old Boat Magazine, Mar 2005, Tayana 37 review by Karen Larsen. Boat comparison by Ted Brewer. » Blue Water Sailing Magazine, Jun 1997, Tayana 37 review. » Used Boat Notebook: From the pages of Sailing Magazine (p118-121), review of the Tayana 37.

Thanks goes to Harvey J. Karten and the Tayana Owners Association for their assistance on this review.

Embed this page on your own website by copying and pasting this code.

Discover Related Sailboats

10 Sailboats Under 50 Grand

You don't need to break the bank to find an affordable, capable sailboat.

Cruising World: 40 Best Sailboats

Cruising World polled their readers to determine the best sailboats of all time.

Blue Water Boats

This collection of capable blue water boats features time-tested sailboats with rich histories.

Hans Christian 33

Westsail 42

Lord Nelson 35

Hans christian 36.

• About Sailboat Guide

©2024 Sea Time Tech, LLC

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.

• Types of Sailboats
• Parts of a Sailboat
• Cruising Boats
• Small Sailboats
• Design Basics
• Sailboats under 30'
• Sailboats 30'-35
• Sailboats 35'-40'
• Sailboats 40'-45'
• Sailboats 45'-50'
• Sailboats 50'-55'
• Sailboats over 55'
• Masts & Spars
• Knots, Bends & Hitches
• The 12v Energy Equation
• Electronics & Instrumentation
• Build Your Own Boat
• Buying a Used Boat
• Choosing Accessories
• Living on a Boat
• Cruising Offshore
• Sailing in the Caribbean
• Anchoring Skills
• Sailing Authors & Their Writings
• Mary's Journal
• Nautical Terms
• Cruising Sailboats for Sale
• List your Boat for Sale Here!
• Used Sailing Equipment for Sale
• Sell Your Unwanted Gear
• Sailing eBooks: Download them here!
• Your Sailboats
• Your Sailing Stories
• Your Fishing Stories
• Advertising
• What's New?
• Chartering a Sailboat
• Cruising Yachts 35' to 40'

The Tayana 37 Sailboat Specs & Key Performance Indicators

The Tayana 37, a long-keeled cutter, was designed by Bob Perry and built in Taiwan by Ta Yang Yacht Building.

Published Specification for the Tayana 37

Underwater Profile:  Long Keel

Hull Material:  GRP

Length Overall:  36'8" / 11.2m

Waterline Length:  31'0" /9.5m

Beam:  11'6" / 3.5m

Draft:  5'8" / 1.7m

Rig Type:  Cutter

Displacement:  22,500lb / 10,206kg

Designer:  Bob Perry

Builder:  Ta Yang Yacht Building (Taiwan)

Year First Built:  1976

Number Built:  558

Owners Association:  Tayana Owners Group

Published Design Ratios for the Tayana 37

• A Sail Area/Displacement Ratio of 17.4 suggests that the Tayana 37 will, in the right conditions, approach her maximum hull speed readily and satisfy the sailing performance expectations of most cruising sailors.
• A Ballast/Displacement Ratio of 35.6 means that unless the bulk of the ballast is concentrated in a bulb at the foot of her keel, the Tayana 37 will have a tendency to heel excessively in a gust, and she'll need to be reefed early to keep her sailing upright in a moderate breeze. 
• A Displacement/Length Ratio of 337 , tells us the Tayana 37 is clearly a heavy displacement cruising boat. You can load her down with all your cruising gear and equipment and it will hardly affect her waterline. Not an ideal choice for coastal sailing, but she'll come into her own on an offshore passage in testing conditions.
• Ted Brewer's Comfort Ratio of 41.1 suggests that crew comfort of a Tayana 37 in a seaway is similar to what you would associate with the motion of a heavy bluewater cruising boat. Pitching and rolling will be well damped - your cup of coffee on the salon table stands a reasonable chance of staying there in most conditions.
• The Capsize Screening Formula (CSF) of 1.6 tells us that a Tayana 37 would be a considerably safer choice of sailboat for an ocean passage than one with a CSF of more than 2.0. 

Design Ratios: Notes of Caution...

• The Sail Area/Displacement Ratio (SA/D): This ratio provides an estimate of the sail power relative to the boat's weight, which can indicate potential speed in various wind conditions.  But i t doesn't account for the efficiency of the sail plan, the rigging, or the skill of the crew. Real-world performance can vary significantly based on these factors.
• The Ballast/Displacement Ratio (B/D): This ratio gives an idea of the boat's stability and stiffness, which is crucial for handling and safety.  But  it doesn't consider the distribution of the ballast or the hull shape, both of which can greatly affect stability. A high B/D ratio alone doesn't guarantee a stable boat if the ballast is poorly distributed.
• The Displacement/Length Ratio (D/L): This ratio helps predict the boat's speed potential and its behaviour in different sea conditions.  But  it doesn't account for the hull design or the boat's overall weight distribution. Two boats with the same D/L ratio can perform very differently if their hull shapes are different.
• The Comfort Ratio (CR): This ratio estimates the boat's motion comfort in a seaway, which is important for long passages.  But  it doesn't consider the boat's interior layout, which can also affect comfort. Additionally, personal tolerance to motion varies, so a boat that is comfortable for one person might not be for another.
• The Capsize Screening Formula (CSF): This formula assesses the likelihood of a boat capsizing in heavy seas, which is critical for offshore safety.  But  it doesn't take into account the boat's handling characteristics or the skill of the crew. A boat with a low CSF can still capsize if poorly handled in severe conditions.

General Limitations

• Static Nature: These ratios are static measurements and don't account for dynamic factors like wave action, wind gusts, or crew actions.
• Simplification: They simplify complex interactions into single numbers, which can be misleading. Real-world performance is influenced by a multitude of factors that these ratios can't fully capture.
• Context: The context in which the boat is used (e.g., coastal cruising vs. offshore racing) can greatly affect how these ratios should be interpreted.

In summary, while these ratios provide valuable insights into the theoretical performance characteristics of a sailboat, they should be used as part of a broader assessment that includes practical experience, sea trials, and expert advice.

Other sailboats in the Tayana range include:

Recent Articles

Island Packet 37 Specs

Aug 23, 24 03:17 PM

Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 40 Specs

Aug 23, 24 04:18 AM

Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 409 Specs

Aug 22, 24 11:02 AM

Here's where to:

• Find  Used Sailboats for Sale...
• Find Used Sailing Gear for Sale...
• List your Sailboat for Sale...
• List your Used Sailing Gear...

Our eBooks...

A few of our Most Popular Pages...

Copyright © 2024  Dick McClary  Sailboat-Cruising.com

• New Sailboats
• Sailboats 21-30ft
• Sailboats 31-35ft
• Sailboats 36-40ft
• Sailboats Over 40ft
• Sailboats Under 21feet
• used_sailboats
• Apps and Computer Programs
• Communications
• Fishfinders
• Handheld Electronics
• Plotters MFDS Rradar
• Wind, Speed & Depth Instruments
• Anchoring Mooring
• Running Rigging
• Sails Canvas
• Standing Rigging
• Diesel Engines
• Off Grid Energy
• Cleaning Waxing
• DIY Projects
• Repair, Tools & Materials
• Spare Parts
• Tools & Gadgets
• Cabin Comfort
• Ventilation
• Footwear Apparel
• Foul Weather Gear
• Mailport & PS Advisor
• Inside Practical Sailor Blog
• Activate My Web Access
• Reset Password
• Customer Service

• Free Newsletter

Mason 33 Used Boat Review

Beneteau 311, Catalina 310 and Hunter 326 Used Boat Comparison

Maine Cat 41 Used Boat Review

Cheoy Lee Clipper 36 & 42 Used Boat Review

Tips From A First “Sail” on the ICW

Tillerpilot Tips and Safety Cautions

Best Crimpers and Strippers for Fixing Marine Electrical Connectors

Thinking Through a Solar Power Installation

Stopping Mainsheet Twist

Working with High-Tech Ropes

Getting a Clue for the Blown-Out Clew

Monel Seizing Wire is Worth the Extra Cost

Fuel Lift Pump: Easy DIY Diesel Fuel System Diagnostic and Repair

Ensuring Safe Shorepower

Sinking? Check Your Stuffing Box

The Rain Catcher’s Guide

Boat Maintenance for the Technically Illiterate: Part 1

Whats the Best Way to Restore Clear Plastic Windows?

Mastering Precision Drilling: How to Use Drill Guides

Giving Bugs the Big Goodbye

Galley Gadgets for the Cruising Sailor

Those Extras you Don’t Need But Love to Have

UV Clothing: Is It Worth the Hype?

Preparing Yourself for Solo Sailing

How to Select Crew for a Passage or Delivery

Preparing A Boat to Sail Solo

On Watch: This 60-Year-Old Hinckley Pilot 35 is Also a Working…

On Watch: America’s Cup

On Watch: All Eyes on Europe Sail Racing

Dear Readers

Chafe Protection for Dock Lines

• Sailboat Reviews

Bob Perrys Salty Tayana 37-Footer Boat Review

Tayana 37s traditional approach still draws big dreamers.

With several hundred boats sailing the seas of the world, the Tayana 37 has been one of the most successful products of the U.S.s Taiwan-built boat invasion that began in the early 1970s. Its shapely Baltic stern, scribed plank seams molded into the glass hull, and lavish use of teak above and belowdecks have come to epitomize the image associated with Oriental boats.

Not all thoughts of Far Eastern boats are pleasant, however. To some, Taiwan-built boats mean poor workmanship, overly heavy hulls, unbedded hardware of dubious heritage, wooden spars that delaminate, and builder-modified boats lightyears removed from the plans provided by the designer. Add to that a serious language barrier and the inevitable logistical problems of dealing with a boatyard halfway around the world, and you have a readymade nightmare for the boat buyer. To the credit of the builder, the designer, the primary importer, and a powerful owners association, the Tayana 37 has weathered an astounding production run while making steady improvements and maintaining a steady output with about 600 boats in existence.

Washington-based boat designer Bob Perry had just hung out his own shingle when he designed Tayana 37 in the early 70s. The Sherman-tank Westsail 32 had just come lumbering onto the scene, bringing with it a resurgence of interest in the double-ended hull form, and more people than ever before were beginning to have the dream of chucking it all and sailing away to a tropical paradise.

Perry has become an enormously successful designer of cruising boats, from traditional, full-keel designs such as the Tayana 37 to modern, fin-keel cruisers such as the Nordic 40, GoldenWave 42, and the Valiant 40. A remarkable number of his designs have been built in the Orient, in both Hong Kong and Taiwan.

Perry conceived the Tayana 37 as a cruising boat of traditional appearance above the water, with moderately heavy displacement, a long waterline, and a reasonably efficient cutter rig of modern proportions. (A ketch rig was also available). Below the water, the forefoot of the long keel has been cut away, and a Constellation-type rudder was utilized rather than a more traditional barn door. Perry sought to cash in on the popularity of the double-ended hull while keeping displacement moderate and performance reasonable, avoiding the plight of boats such as the Westsail 32-the inability to go to windward and sluggish performance in anything short of a moderate gale. The stern design of the Tayana 37 borrows heavily from the well-known Aage Nielsen-designed ketch, the Holger Danske, winner of the 1980 Bermuda Race. It is one of the more handsome Baltic-type sterns on any production sailboat.

The Tayana 37 began life as the CT 37. In 1979, the boat became known as the Tayana 37, named for Ta Yang Yacht Building Co. While some snobbishness exists among owners who own the CT version, Perry has insisted that this is illusory. According to the designer, the CT 37 and the Tayana 37 are the same boat, built by the same men in the same yard. In much the same way that the early Swans imported by Palmer Johnson were known by the name of the importer-the names Nautor and Swan were unknown here in the late 1960s-early Tayanas were known as CTs because the name CT had already become known in this country.

Perry, who worked with many yards in the Far East, considers Ta Yang one of the best. The yard always was very responsive to input from both dealers and owners. Over the years, this resulted in steady improvement in the quality of the boat.

Handling Under Power

Three different engines have been used in the Tayana 37: the Yanmar 3QM30, the Perkins 4-108, and the Volvo MD17C. The latest change was to the Yanmar as standard propulsion. This makes good economic sense, as Japan is closer to Taiwan than either England or Sweden.

Although all of the engines offer adequate power for the boat, don’t expect the Tayana 37 to win any drag races. With her substantial wetted surface and fairly heavy displacement, performance under power is sedate rather than spritely. Owners rate handling under power as fair to good, although one reported that his boat backs up like a drunken elephant.

While the engine box removes completely to provide good access for service, there is no provision for easy access to the oil dipstick. This means that this vital task is likely to be ignored. A simple door in the side of the engine box would solve the problem.

The placement of the fuel tank also has caused substantial discussion on the part of owners. The standard 90-gallon, black iron tank is located under the V-berth in the forward cabin. When full, this tank holds almost 650 pounds of fuel. This is about the same weight as 375 feet of 3/8-inch anchor chain-a substantial amount to carry around in the bow of a 37-footer. A Tayana 37 with the bow tank full and a heavy load of ground tackle will show noticeable bow-down trim. The design was originally drawn with the fuel tanks under the settees, but the builder put the tank forward to create additional storage in the main cabin.

This is a good example of one of the basic recurring problems with Far East-built boats. Frequently, the builders have good glass men and good interior joiners, but their inexperience in sailing results in inconsistencies that compromise their boats. Fortunately, thanks to the pressure from owners, the builder began offering optional tankage amidships, where it belongs.

Handling Under Sail

The Tayana 37 was built as a ketch or cutter, with wood spars or aluminum, with mast-stepped on deck or on the keel. Few builders have offered so many options. The standard rig is a masthead cutter with wooden spars; the mast is stepped on deck and supported by a substantial compression column. The designer strongly recommended the aluminum cutter rig, and we heartily concur. The wooden mast is poorly proportioned, with a massive section and extremely thick sidewalls. One mast we looked at had a large knot on the forward side of the mast just at spreader level. Despite the huge mast section, we feel the knot could weaken the mast significantly.

In contrast to the large section of the mast, the boom was an extremely small spruce box section. With mid-boom sheeting, this spar will probably bend like a rubber band, complicating mainsail shape. The clew outhaul slide is far too flimsy for a boat of this size, and owners report that the outhaul slide frequently distorts or explodes. Once again, these problems are rather typical in Taiwan boats, where you frequently find excellent craftsmanship but a poor understanding of engineering or the forces involved in ocean sailing.

In contrast, the aluminum rigs, which may come from a variety of sources including France, New Zealand, and the U.S., are well proportioned and suited to the task.

We see no reason to select the ketch rig. Both performance and balance with the cutter rig will be better. The cutters mainsail is 342 square feet. Any couple healthy enough to go world cruising should be able to cope with a sail of this size.

The cutter rig is tall and well proportioned. Perry has drawn an unusually high-aspect rig for a cruising boat, and the result is a boat with good performance on all points of sail. With the aluminum rig, the optional Nicro Fico ball-bearing mainsheet traveler and a well-cut suit of sails, the Tayana 37 will be surprisingly fast. Her working sail area of 864 square feet is generous.

Despite a ballast/displacement ratio of 33 percent, the Tayana 37 is not a stiff boat. This is due in part to the tall, heavy rig and the substantial amount of other weight above the boats vertical center of gravity. Much of the boats heavy joinerwork and glasswork is well above the waterline, raising the center of gravity and reducing initial stability. Perry believes the initial tenderness to be an asset, reducing the snappiness of the boats roll and making her a more comfortable sea boat. We agree.

Many owners report that the boat carries substantial weather helm. The sailplan is drawn with significant rake to the mast. This creates just enough shift in the center of effort of the sailplan to create a lot of weather helm. Bringing the mast back toward the vertical by tightening the headstay and forestay while loosening the backstay should cure much of the problem, according to reports from other owners. It may be necessary to shorten the headstay to do this.

The weather helm and initial tenderness may also be due in part to the poor cut of the standard sails provided with the boat. Many of the boats in existence came with standard sails made by Lam of Hong Kong. These sails have the reputation of being stretchy and having very poor shape. Mainsail draft with this fabric is almost uncontrollable, with the sail becoming baggy and the draft moving aft as the wind increases. This will create weather helm and increase the angle of heel.

Deck Layout

With its bulwarks, high double lifelines, and substantial bow and stern pulpits, the Tayana 37 gives the sailor a good sense of security on those cold, windy nights when called out for sail changes. A teak platform grating atop the bowsprit coupled with the strong pulpit, relieves that appendage of its widowmaker reputation.

The bowsprit platform incorporates double anchor rollers, which can house CQR anchors. Unfortunately, there is no good lead from the rollers to any place to secure the anchor rode. Line or chain led to the heavy bowsprit bitts would chafe on the platform. An anchor windlass mounted to port or starboard of the bowsprit would provide a good lead.

There are hawseholes through the bulwarks port and starboard, well aft of the stem. These will be fine for docklines, but are too far aft to serve as good leads for anchoring. There is room at deck level, outboard of the bowsprit, to install a set of heavy chocks for anchoring, although anchor rode led to this point will chafe on the bobstay as the boat swings to her anchor.

This is a classic problem of the boat with a bowsprit. The anchor rode must really lead well out the bowsprit to avoid the bobstay, yet the long lead complicates securing the inboard end of the rode. A common solution is a bridle led to the hawseholes.

The long staysail boom makes it difficult to cross from one side of the boat to the other forward. The standard staysail traveler is merely a stainless-steel rod on which a block can slide on its shackle. Under load, this can bind when tacking, so that it may be necessary to go forward and kick the block over after every tack. By all means look for boats with the optional Nicro Fico travelers with their roller-bearing cars. Complaints about the standard travelers are rife.

Standard winches on the boat were Barlow. We suggest that you try to find self-tailing winches for all sheets.

Although the sidedecks are relatively narrow due to the wide cabin trunk, there is reasonable access fore and aft. A full-length handrail on either side of the cabin trunk provides a good handhold.

The cockpit of the Tayana 37 is small, as befits an oceangoing sailboat. There are cockpit scuppers at each of the four corners of the cockpit well, with seacocks on the through-hull outlets.

With the pedestal steering, the cockpit seems to have shrunk. Only three can be seated in real comfort, although this is no real problem for the cruising couple. It is not a cockpit for heavy entertaining in port. The elimination of the coaming around the stern of the boat has made the cockpit seats long enough for sleeping on deck, but at the expense of exposing the helmsman to a wet seat in a following sea.

Cockpit locker configuration varies with the interior options chosen, but the lockers are large enough to provide reasonable storage, although you should resist the temptation to load them heavily so far aft.

The interior of the Tayana 37 probably sells more boats than any other feature of the boat. Every boat was custom built so there has never been a standard interior.

Like other Taiwanese boats, the interior of the Tayana 37 is all teak. This can result in a cabin that is oppressively dark to some people, and exquisitely cool to others. To keep it looking good, owners must do a lot of oiling or varnishing.

The interior joinerwork on the boat we examined was some of the best we have seen. Joints were just about flawless, paneled doors beautifully joined, drawers dovetailed from solid stock. There were no fillers making up for poorly fitted joints, no trim fitted with grinders, no slop anywhere. Older Tayana 37s (70s-80s vintage) we have seen did not boast quite this caliber of workmanship, but their joinerwork was certainly of good quality.

With such an array of interior options, it is difficult to really evaluate the boats interior. Although, in all fairness, there is a standard interior. It is prosaic but good, with a V-berth forward, followed by the head and lockers just aft. The main cabin has a U-shaped settee to port, straight settee and pilot berth to starboard. Aft is a good U -shaped galley to port, nav station and quarterberth to starboard.

Conclusions

The Tayana 37 is both typical and atypical of Taiwanese boats. It is typical in the problems that existed due to the builders inexperience with seagoing yachts, common with communication and language problems.

It is atypical in that many of these problems have been solved over its many years of production. Anyone considering a Tayana 37 should join the owners association and read all the back newsletters before buying the boat.

The total cost of a well-equipped Tayana 37 with most of the desirable options compares very favorably with other boats of her size, type, and displacement. The Tayana 37 would make an excellent retirement cruiser for the experienced sailing couple. Properly handled and equipped, she could take you anywhere with confidence and reasonable dispatch.

Editors note: This review is an updated and expanded version of one previously published.

• Heavy Glass Hull Marks Tayana 37

• Tayana Yachts
• Tayana Owners Group

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

The word “cost” without a number associated with it is just meaningless drivel. So how much would a “well-equipped Tayana 37 with most of the desirable options” cost? Ballpark, of course.

They run about $50K to 80K, depending more on condition, and whether or not they have been recently re-powered, than what year built.

A Baltic stern makes it impossible to have davits for the inflatable and difficult to have solar panels, and therefore is not wise for most cruising. Passage-making is another matter.

The excessive weather helm problem of the Tayana 37 has more to do with the mast position than anything else. The Tayang builders chose to place the mast 1′ farther aft than Bob Perry’s designs called for. Their reason was for larger accommodations in the forward cabin, namely dry lockers for hanging clothes and bedding, plus generous sized clothes drawers, and depending upon the floor plan, the addition of a private doorway entry into the head. And, as Darrell Nicholson points out, Tayang’s interior choices should not have been a greater priority than sailing characteristics. However, Tayana owners who have shortened the foot of the main & boom by 16″ to 18″ report that this has cured the weather helm problem without any noticeable loss of speed.

And, the point is well taken in regard to the nuisance and potential danger of the staysail boom. It’s really not an essential item and after removing it the sheeting can be configured in different ways to get good use out of the staysail.

LEAVE A REPLY Cancel reply

Log in to leave a comment

Latest Videos

The Perfect Family Sailboat! Hunter 27-2 – Boat Review

Pettit EZ-Poxy – How to Paint a Boat

The Boat From True Spirit – Sparkman & Stephens

Top 5 Boat Hacks – Boat Maintenance Tips and Tricks

Latest sailboat review.

• Privacy Policy
• Do Not Sell My Personal Information
• Online Account Activation
• Privacy Manager

The Tayana 37 is a 36.68ft cutter designed by Robert Perry and built in fiberglass by Ta Yang Yacht Building Co. Ltd. since 1976.

588 units have been built., it accomodates 4 people in 2 cabins plus salon..

The Tayana 37 is a heavy sailboat which is a reasonably good performer. It is stable / stiff and has an excellent righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a heavy bluewater cruising boat. The fuel capacity is average. There is a good water supply range.

Tayana 37 for sale elsewhere on the web:

Main features

Login or register to personnalize this screen.

You will be able to pin external links of your choice.

See how Sailboatlab works in video

We help you build your own hydraulic steering system - Lecomble & Schmitt

Accommodations

Builder data

Other photos

Modal Title

The content of your modal.

Personalize your sailboat data sheet

Paste a link here:

Give it a title:

And eventually a link to an image for the thumbnail:

2020 Tayana 37

1982 Tayana 37 Technical Specs

General data about tayana 37.

Engine and Power Specs

Dimensions And Wieght

Detailed Specifications

Features And Equipments

More 37 models

• Tayana provided us with the latest version of its 37 service repair manual
• Find All mechanical and electrical parts and accessories of Tayana 37 Sail here

Tayana 37 competitors

Island Packet

Hans Christian

• Forum Listing
• Marketplace
• Advanced Search
• About The Boat
• Boat Review Forum
• SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more!

Tayana 37 performance

• Add to quote

Ladies and gentlemen, I once again call on the collective wisdom of this forum. I am interested in a discussion of the performance of a full keeled boat with forefoot cutaway and a cutter rig. Specifically, how well upwind does a Tayana 37 perform? Besides the fact that it has a wide shroud why does the full keel inhibit upwind pointing ability? For those of you with experience sailing on a 1980's era Tayana 37 what do you think of its upwind performance? Speed? Thanks in advance to all who respond!!  

As a 37 owner, I don't think in terms of performance and speed, does it sail to windward?? yes, it fetches ( is that a word ? )pretty good and is very comfortable while doing so, is it a fast boat ??? hell no, that's not what it was designed for. I wuv me boat, it's strong like ox Oh, google Tanaya Owners Group, good stuff there for your question  

If you want to compare performance between boats, using the PHRF time for each boat is reasonable first cut. Tayana 37 is in the 170's range. Paul L  

So to give that perspective my ex Frers 36 a racer cruiser rated 90. That means for every mile sailed I owed the Tayana 37 80 seconds or so... or it was about half as fast. My current 47 has about the same rating 96 as the Frers did even though it's 3x as heavy but does have a much longer waterline. The difference is the Frers could accelerate out of tacks and gibes quickly the Moody not so, however in rougher condition where the Frers would be bouncing around and not so much fun, it's a great sailing day on the Moody.  

svsirius said: So to give that perspective my ex Frers 36 a racer cruiser rated 90. That means for every mile sailed I owed the Tayana 37 80 seconds or so... or it was about half as fast. Click to expand...

thanks guys..........always appreciated..........  

wannabe4 said: Ladies and gentlemen, I once again call on the collective wisdom of this forum. I am interested in a discussion of the performance of a full keeled boat with forefoot cutaway and a cutter rig. Specifically, how well upwind does a Tayana 37 perform? Besides the fact that it has a wide shroud why does the full keel inhibit upwind pointing ability? For those of you with experience sailing on a 1980's era Tayana 37 what do you think of its upwind performance? Speed? Thanks in advance to all who respond!! Click to expand...

RichH said: If I had it to do all over again, Id choose a Perryboat with a modified fin (Valiant, Tashiba, Passport, etc.) and with 'split underbody' ... for better 'performance'. A Ty37, IMHO, is well 'over-canvassed' - having all the sail area one needs to keep her 'up near hull-speed'. Hope this helps. Click to expand...

• ?            
• 176K members

Top Contributors this Month

× You are using an outdated browser. Please upgrade your browser to improve your experience.

We Ship Worldwide! | FREE SHIPPING! for US Continental orders over $99. Click for details.

Shopping Cart

Your cart is currently empty..

FREE SHIPPING! for US Continental orders over $99 click for details

Tayana 37 - Sailboat Data, Parts & Rigging

Sailboat data, rig dimensions and recommended sail areas for Tayana 37 sailboat. Tech info about rigging, halyards, sheets, mainsail covers and more.

Sailboat Data directory for over 8,000 sailboat designs and manufacturers. Direct access to halyards lengths, recommended sail areas, mainsail cover styles, standing rigging fittings, and lots more for all cruising and racing sailboats.

MAURIPRO Sailing offers a full range of sailboat and sailing information to help you find the correct sailboat part, one that properly would fit your sailboat and sailing style. Our sailor's and sailboat owner support team are ready to talk with you about your specific sailing needs, coming regatta, or next sailing adventure.

From all at MAURIPRO, let's Go Sailing!

Copyright © 2024 MAURIPRO Sailing LLC.

• Tayana Manuals
• Operation & maintenance manual

Tayana 37 Operation & Maintenance Manual

• page of 85 Go / 85

Table of Contents

Chapter ii specifications.

• Serial Numbers
• Construction
• IMPORTER'S DOCUMENTS (no Information Provided in Manual
• Procedures and Data for Documentation
• Chapter III Commissioning and Decommissioning
• Check List on Commissioning
• Initial Commissioning
• Delivery Inspection
• Launching Inspection
• Engine Installation
• Lifelines, Pulpits and Stanchions
• SPARS and STANDING RIGGING (Pre-Stepped)
• Fresh Water System
• SPARS and RIGGING (After-Stepped)
• Steering Inspection
• Marine Toilet and Waste Lines
• Other Systems & Equipment
• Check Joinerwork
• Water Test Deck
• Notes on Weather and Sea Conditions
• Owner Commissioning
• DECOMMISSIONING for STORAGE (Winterizing)
• Drainage of Fresh Water System
• Head and Holding Tanks
• Clean Yacht Interior
• Remove the Following Gear
• Clean Standing Rigging and Inspect for Damage
• Drain Shower Pan and Clean Strainer
• If Boat Is Hauled, Clean and Inspect Bottom Thoroughly
• It Is a Good Practice to Record Items
• Recommissioning after Lay-Up
• Review Manuals for All Optional Equipment
• Wash and Wax Spars. Lubricate Winches and Sheaves. Inspect for any Damage
• Wash Exterior. Polish, Wash, and Lubricate Metal Deck Hardware
• You May Wish to Use Deck Covers
• Apply Anti-Foulant Bottom Paint. Add Zincs, if Required
• Check Notes on Decommissioning. Make any Necessary Repairs
• Check Operation of All Thru-Hulls before Launching Boat
• Clean Exterior of Boat Thoroughly
• Fill Fuel Tank. Bleed Engine Fuel System Per Instructions in Engine Manual
• If Engine was Drained, Replace All Drain Plugs, Tighten Caps, and Shut Drain Cocks. Fill and Bleed Engine Cooling System
• Launch, Step Spar, Connect Rigging, Bend on Sails. Check All Components Prior to Re-Installing Them
• Re-Install Charged Batteries, Checking Terminals for Correct Polarity
• Reconnect Coupling and Check Engine Alignment
• Replace Hot Water Heater Plug and Reconnect Water Line at Pump. Flush the Fresh Water System, then Fill the Water Tanks

Chapter IV . Operating Procedures

• Sailing the Tayana 37 Ketch
• Tuning the Spars and Rigging
• Tuning under Sail
• Handling under Power
• Pre-Starting Check-Off
• Engine Operation
• Starting Procedures
• Engine Shut-Down
• Fuel System
• Electrical Systems
• The DC Electrical System
• The Alternating Current System
• The Plumbing Systems
• Bilge Pumps
• The Fresh Water System
• Holding Tank
• Chapter V Maintenance and Maintenance Procedures
• The Deck and Cabin Top
• Interior Woodwork
• Spars, Rigging, and Sails
• Aluminum Spars
• Standing Rigging
• Running Rigging
• Auxiliary Engines and Related Systems
• Installation
• Before each Outing
• Break-In Period
• Maintenance
• Bleeding the Fuel System
• Every 150 Hours or 3 Months (Whichever Occurs First
• Every 2400 Hours
• Every 450 Hours or 12 Months (Whichever Occurs First
• Drive Train
• Engine Alignment
• Stuffing Box
• Transmission
• Cutlass Bearing
• The 12 Volt D.C. System - Figure
• The Electrical Panel
• Alternator, Engine Mounted
• Electrical Starter
• Master Battery Switch
• Protective System
• The 110 Volt AC System
• Plumbing and Sanitation Systems
• Biige Pumping Systems (SEE FIGURE
• Sanitation Systems

Advertisement

Quick Links

• 1 Fresh Water System
• 2 Spars, Rigging, and Sails
• Download this manual
• Chapter II Specifications 12
• Table of Contents 22
• Chapter IV . Operating Procedures 38
• Table of Contents 57

Related Manuals for Tayana 37

Summary of contents for tayana 37.

• Page 1 Chapter I OPERATIONS MAINTENANCE MANUAL Chapter 1...
• Page 2 TAYANA 37 OPERATIONS MAINTENANCE MANUAL Originally prepared by Southern Offshore Yachts. Converted to digital format by Harvey J. Karten August 1998. Current update: 1/10/02 Many thanks to Ed Potter, Tom Beard and Mauro Migliorelli...
• Page 3 III-A. Initial Commissioning III-B. Owner Commissioning III-C. Decommissioning for Storage III-D. Recommissioning After Lay-Up OPERATING PROCEDURES IV-A. Sailing The Tayana 37 Cutter IV-B. Sailing The Tayana 37 Ketch IV-C. Tuning The Spars And Rigging IV-D. Tuning Under Sail IV-E. Handling Under Power IV-F.
• Page 4 V-E. Auxiliary Engines & Related Systems V-F. Electrical Systems V-G. Plumbing and Sanitation Systems LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND TABLES Drawing Tayana 37 Cutter Sail Plan Tayana 37 Ketch Sail Plan Tayana 37 Deck Plan Tables ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS/The Energy Audit System (Table IV.-1)
• Page 5 ANNEX I ....................Winch Assemblies ANNEX II....................Warranty ANNEX III .................... Miscellaneous Info PHRF Rating Rigging (P, I, J and E Values) of Cutter Fuel Tank Depth vs. Volume...
• Page 6 INTRODUCTION You are to be congratulated on your selection of the TAYANA 37 cruising yacht. There is no better yacht in her size range on the market. With care and proper maintenance she will not only prove to be an excellent investment, she will take you cruising anywhere in the world safely and comfortably.
• Page 9 I-10...
• Page 10 BARIENT WINCH #22 WINCH ASSEMBLY I-11...
• Page 11 Volume in Fuel Tank in Bow of older Tayana 37 as a function of height of fuel in tank. As the tank is shaped in the form of a polyhedron, the exact relationship of fuel level to total volume is non-linear and difficult to assess. Based on data provided by Tom Beard in TOG News.

Page 12: Table Of Contents

Page 13: serial numbers.

• Page 14 Polars for Tayana37 Cutter II-3...

Page 15: Materials

Page 16: construction.

• Page 17 The beautiful spruce spars which come on some TAYANA 37's are made in a special spar shop located in the factory complex. The spruce used is the finest that can be found and truly approaches aircraft quality.
• Page 18 II-7...

Page 19: Importer's Documents (No Information Provided In Manual

• Page 20 Extent of interest. Identification of Owner's or Existing Mortgages. Declaration of No Foreign Interest involved. Declaration of Master of Vessel. Declaration No freight or Commercial Passengers to be Carried on Board. Designated Home Port-Licensing Office. Designated Hailing Port-Berth Marking Certificate Commercial Class Contact your U.S.
• Page 21 Volume in Fuel Tank in Bow of older Tayana 37 as a function of height of fuel in tank. As the tank is shaped in the form of a polyhedron, the exact relationship of fuel level to total volume is non-linear and difficult to assess. Based on data provided by Tom Beard in TOG News.
• Page 22 CHAPTER III COMMISSIONING AND DECOMMISSIONING....... III-2 A. INITIAL COMMISSIONING....................... III-2 Check List on Commissioning ......................III-4 DELIVERY INSPECTION ........................ III-5 LAUNCHING INSPECTION ......................III-5 ENGINE INSTALLATION......................III-6 LIFELINES, PULPITS AND STANCHIONS ................III-6 SPARS AND STANDING RIGGING (Pre-Stepped) ..............III-6 SPARS AND RIGGING (After-Stepped)..................

Page 23: Chapter Iii Commissioning And Decommissioning

• Page 24 5. Prepare and paint bottom. For maximum anti-foulant life, a full second coat of bottom paint is recommended. 6. Launch and inspect all underwater fittings for leaks. 7. Fill fuel, water, and propane tanks and search for leaks. 8. Install pulpits, stanchions, and lifeline lines. Safety lifeline ends and gates. 9.

Page 25: Initial Commissioning

Page 26: delivery inspection, page 27: engine installation, page 28: spars and rigging (after-stepped), page 29: marine toilet and waste lines, page 30: check joinerwork, page 31: sea trial, page 32: owner commissioning.

• Page 33 GENERAL. It is important to check the inventory very carefully. Look in every nook and cranny. The factory is usually very careful and pack all that is supposed to come with the yacht. However, the workmen who do the packing are skilled at putting things where no body would think to look.

Page 34: Decommissioning For Storage (Winterizing)

Page 35: clean yacht interior, page 36: drain shower pan and clean strainer, page 37: check operation of all thru-hulls before launching boat.

• Page 38 With these simple differences in mind let's look at how one sets the sails on the TAYANA 37 cutter. As the sails fill and you are on or near the proper course, set the jib or Yankee so that it fills and is almost, but not quite, on the point of luffing. You will note that the set of the jib effects the flow of air to the staysail.

Page 39: Sailing The Tayana 37 Ketch

Page 40: tuning the spars and rigging, page 41: handling under power, page 42: starting procedures, page 43: engine shut-down.

• Page 44 6. Avoid fueling after dark or in poorly lighted areas. 7. Maintain continuous contact between the nozzle and the deck plate fitting to eliminate the possibility of static electric discharge while filling. 8. Take on only gallonage anticipated by the fuel gauge. Do not overfill to point where fuel remains in fill hose.
• Page 45 IV-8...

Page 46: Electrical Systems

• Page 47 amperes for one hour, you will have drawn a total of 10 ampere-hours from your battery(s). Let's look at a practical example of how you can use your electrical audit and ammeter to know when recharge is going to be required. Let us say that you are sailing overnight and that you have just turned on your running lights and compass lights.
• Page 48 Do not switch to "off" position with engine running. "Both" position is intended for emergency or extended engine cranking ability. Ordinarily, one should charge one battery at a time while the engine is running. Continuous running in the "Both" position when the batteries are in a low state of charge, can cause overload and possible damage to the engine alternator.
• Page 49 c. Electrical Panel The AC-DC breaker panel is generally located under the companionway or in the navigator's station. This panel is equipped with high quality circuit breakers. Each DC circuit breaker is wired to an indicator light to show at a glance if the circuit is on.

Page 50: The Alternating Current System

• Page 51 a. The AC Electrical Control Panel The AC electrical control panel is a part of the ships electrical panel partly described on the previous page. On it is located the main circuit breaker for the AC system. Each AC circuit is protected by a double pole breaker, which breaks both sides of the circuit when it is tripped.

Page 52: The Plumbing Systems

Page 53: the fresh water system.

• Page 54 IV-17...

Page 55: Holding Tank

• Page 56 2. Open the intake thru-hull fitting located just outboard beside the seat. 3. Flush completely by pumping at least thirty times. 4. Close the intake thru-hull fitting. 5. Pump to nearly exhaust the bowl. This will take about five or six full strokes.
• Page 57 CHAPTER V MAINTENANCE AND MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES .........V-2 A. THE HULL- ..................................V-2 B. THE DECK AND CABIN TOP............................. V-3 C. INTERIOR WOODWORK............................V-4 D. SPARS, RIGGING, AND SAILS ........................... V-5 1. Wood Spars..................................V-6 2. Aluminum Spars ................................V-7 3. Standing Rigging ................................V-8 4.

Page 58: Chapter V Maintenance And Maintenance Procedures

Page 59: the deck and cabin top, page 60: interior woodwork, page 61: spars, rigging, and sails, page 62: wood spars, page 63: aluminum spars, page 64: standing rigging, page 65: sails, page 66: winches, page 67: auxiliary engines and related systems.

• Page 68 mufflers, neoprene hoses, and bronze check valve. These latter systems are quite satisfactory, but they are not as durable nor are they as easy to maintain as the new systems. V-12...
• Page 69 V-13...

Page 70: Maintenance

Page 71: every 150 hours or 3 months (whichever occurs first, page 72: drive train, page 73: engine alignment, page 74: cutlass bearing, page 75: the 12 volt d.c. system - figure.

• Page 76 V-20...

Page 77: The Electrical Panel

• Page 78 TABLE V-1. ELECTRIC WIRE NUMBER & COLOR CODES 12 V.D.C. MAST LIGHT #12 RED BOW LIGHT #12 BLUE SPREADER LIGHTS #12 YELLOW STERN/SIDE LIGHTS #14 WHITE FORWARD CABIN LIGHTS #12 BLUE AFT CABIN LIGHTS #12 LIGHT BLUE ENGINE ROOM LIGHTS #12 TAN COMPASS LIGHT #14 WHITE...

Page 79: Master Battery Switch

• Page 80 moisture eliminating product. V-24...
• Page 81 V-25...

Page 82: The 110 Volt Ac System

Page 83: plumbing and sanitation systems, page 84: biige pumping systems (see figure, page 85: the toilet, rename the bookmark, delete bookmark, delete from my manuals, upload manual.