sailboat mainsail halyards

Sailboat Running Rigging

You don't want to have faulty sailboat running rigging. Strong, durable lines are essential for controlling the sails on your boat without risking your own safety, or that of the sails. Our sailboat ropes and lines were designed to withstand any weather condition without fraying, tearing, or catching. When you are ready to trim and hoist your sails, you can rest assured that the sailboat rigging equipment that you purchase from us will provide the smoothest and fastest transitions. From tack to jibe, our sailboat halyards and mainsheets make it easy, durable and always the right choice.

Order our sailboat running rigging lines today for fast, free shipping on qualifying orders, and rig up your boat with the most trusted sailboat riggings around!

Lines by type of sailing

• Club/Racing
• Dinghy/One Design
• Kite & Surf

Lines by Application*

• Jib/Genoa Sheets
• Spinnaker Sheets
• * Sailboat lines selector by application.

Lines by Material

• Polyester Double Braid
• Dyneema Single Braid
• Dyneema Double Braid
• Vectran Core Double Braid
• Dyneema Core Double Braid

Lines by Brand

• Alpha Ropes
• FSE Robline
• G&B Ropes
• New England
• Yale Cordage

Our sailboat rigging include mainsail halyards, spinnaker halyards, and Genoa halyards that are made from a double braid polyester line, double braid Dyneema line or Vectran. Our mainsheets are also made from durable double braid polyester and hybrid fibers with blend of Dyneema and Technora. This material has the best reputation in the industry.

* Visit our quick sailboat lines selector by application.

Please verify you are a human

Access to this page has been denied because we believe you are using automation tools to browse the website.

This may happen as a result of the following:

• Javascript is disabled or blocked by an extension (ad blockers for example)
• Your browser does not support cookies

Please make sure that Javascript and cookies are enabled on your browser and that you are not blocking them from loading.

Reference ID: 044a37b3-76a3-11ef-9efd-1dc0e7821167

Powered by PerimeterX , Inc.

Home > Resources > Halyards, Sheets, and Lines: A Guide to Choosing and Maintaining Your Sailboat Rigging

Halyards, Sheets, and Lines: A Guide to Choosing and Maintaining Your Sailboat Rigging

11 May 2023

Ask Precision Sails , Hardware , Maintenance , Technical

How to Choose the Right Halyard/Sheet

When choosing a halyard for your sailboat, several factors come into play. These include the weight of the sail, the type of sail, the sailboat’s size, and the expected wind conditions. You should also consider the halyard’s stretch, which affects sail shape and performance. It is essential to choose a halyard that matches the load the sail will have on the line. Low-stretch halyards are ideal for racing and performance sailing, where every fraction of a knot counts.

Some Things to Consider when Choosing a Halyard or Sheet Include:

• Material: The material you choose for your line can affect its strength, durability, and stretch resistance.
• Diameter: The diameter of your halyard or sheet should be appropriate for the load the sail will apply to it and the size of your boat.
• Length: The length of your halyard or sheet should allow you to run your lines wherever they are needed, plus some extra for you to trim and tie off with.
• Attachment: The type of attachment you choose for your halyard or sheet can change depending on how you run your sheets and how the head of your sail is configured.
• Review Your Options: Making a decision about lines can be daunting, luckily Precision Sails has made it easy for you to pick your halyard or sheets by simplifying the process into two groups and pre-selecting the diameter, length, and attachment for your boat and line.

Here is a Quick Guide to Explain Material Choice:

The Precision Cruising series employs high-quality polyester lines, which are a good all-around option for starting and performing well. Polyester halyards and sheets are the most common and suitable for most sizes of sailboats, but they do stretch more than other lines like dyneema, spectra, or stirotex, which can affect sail shape and performance.

To address this, the Precision Performance series focuses on using stronger and stretch-resistant inner cores, making them ideal for racing sailboats that require high precision and tight tolerances. These lines are made of stirotex, which you may recognize by the name of spectra or dyneema. Stirotex is a chemically identical variation. The parent compound in these high-tension lines is HMPE. These lines are the strongest and least stretchy, making them the top choice for high-performance racing sailboats.

How to Maintain Your Halyards, Sheets, and Lines

Proper maintenance of your halyards is crucial for their longevity and reliability. Some tips for maintaining your halyards include:

Maintenance Checklist

• Regular inspection: Check your lines regularly for signs of wear, fraying, or damage.
• Cleaning: Clean your halyards and sheets periodically with soap and water to remove dirt and salt buildup.
• Lubrication: Lubricate your halyards and sheets with a silicone spray or dry lubricant to reduce friction and wear.
• Storage: When not in use, store your lines coiled neatly and out of direct sunlight if you can.

Signs of Wear – How to Inspect Your Lines

Lines that show obvious signs of deterioration must be discarded and replaced immediately. One of the most apparent and hazardous signs of wear on a line is a cut or damaged sheath that exposes the core. In such cases, it is important to retire the line immediately to prevent any further damage or potential failures. 

Other signs may include hardness around the sheath or fuzziness. These signs may be particularly evident near the connection points or any areas of high friction. It’s also important to pay attention to any changes in the handling or feel of the line, as this may indicate internal damage or other issues that require attention. 

A way to protect your investment is proper care and cleaning and avoiding the use of harsh chemicals or high-pressure washers, which can damage the fibers. This can be done by soaking them in a bucket of warm water with mild soap or detergent, then rinsing thoroughly and allowing them to air dry. This helps to remove any salt, dirt, or grime that may have accumulated, which can cause premature wear and tear if left unchecked. 

A way to visualize this is to envision dirt particles getting trapped between the fibers of the line and causing small tears in the weave. When the line is put under tension, these dirt particles act like miniature saw blades, gradually weakening the line over time and potentially leading to catastrophic failures. Therefore, regular cleaning and maintenance of your lines, including halyards and sheets, is essential to ensure their longevity and reliability and to avoid any dangerous situations while out on the water.

Inspecting Your Lines for Damage

Pro tip: Usage level and proper care is a more important indicator than age

Let’s dispel some common misconceptions about when to retire a sailboat line. For example, some sailors may retire a line based solely on its age, rather than its condition. We want to stress the importance of inspecting lines regularly and retiring them when signs of wear or damage are detected, regardless of their age. Here’s a helpful checklist so you know what to look for on your lines.

Inspection Checklist

• Check for visual signs of wear and tear, such as fraying or abrasions, which can weaken the line and compromise its strength. Be sure to examine the line thoroughly, paying particular attention to any areas of high friction or wear.
• Run your hands along the length of the line, feeling for any hard or soft spots, which can indicate internal damage or wear. If you detect any abnormalities, consider retiring the line or seeking professional advice.
• Look for any signs of UV damage, which can cause the line to degrade over time. This is particularly important for lines that are exposed to sunlight for extended periods.
• Check the diameter of the line, ensuring that it matches the manufacturer’s specifications. Any significant deviations may indicate that the line has been stretched or otherwise damaged.
• Examine the connection points, including splices and knots, ensuring that they are secure and free from any signs of wear or damage.

To recap, lines, halyards, and sheets are an essential component of any sailing vessel, and choosing the right halyard for your boat is a necessary part of outfitting your vessel. Regular maintenance and proper care of your halyards can ensure their longevity and reliability. We hope this article has provided valuable insights into halyards, sheets, and lines, though we understand that it may seem like a lot of information.

If you feel overwhelmed by the amount of information, don’t worry, we have simplified the process of finding the right line for your boat. Simply fill out a form , and we will send you the best fit and our professional opinion based on the type of sailing you plan on doing. If you have any questions, comments, or wish to order lines from our sail consultants, please don’t hesitate to contact us.

FAQ’s

Q: What is a sailboat halyard?

A: Halyards are ropes or lines used to hoist sails, flags, and other equipment on a boat.

Q: What is a sailboat sheet?

A: A sailboat sheet is a line that is attached to the lower corner of a sail and used to control its position relative to the wind. The sheet is usually led through a block or a series of blocks, which allow the sailor to adjust the sail’s angle and trim it for maximum efficiency. In addition to controlling the sail’s position, the sheet also helps to control the sail’s shape and tension, which can affect the boat’s speed and handling.

Q: Can different types of materials be used to make halyards, sheets, and lines?

A: Yes, lines can be made of various materials such as polyester, nylon, stirotex, and dyneema. Each material has its own strengths and weaknesses, and the choice of material depends on the type of sailing and personal preference.

Q: How do I determine the length of halyard I need for my sailboat?

A: It’s important to consult with a sail consultant or experienced sailor to ensure you get the correct length. The length of halyard you need will depend on the height of your mast, the type and size of the sail you will be using, and where you plan on trimming your sails. Calculating the length is more complex than simply taking a guess, not to worry though, we have made it easy. Give us a call or fill out our form to let our system crunch the numbers for you.

Q: How do I know if my halyard or sheets are due for replacement? 

A: Look for signs of wear and tear such as fraying, kinking, or stretching. If the line feels stiff or brittle, it may be time to replace it. Additionally, if you notice any damage to the sheave or winch, this may also indicate the need for a replacement. See the checklist above for detailed instructions.

Q: Are there any safety precautions I should take when using halyards and sheets?

A: Yes, it’s important to properly understand how to use a winch and don’t wrap the rope around your arm or fingers. Always be aware of your surroundings and avoid getting entangled in halyards or other lines. It’s also recommended to have a backup halyard in case of failure or emergency situations.

Q: How can halyards affect the performance of a sailboat?

A: The type of halyard used can have an impact on the performance of the sailboat. For instance, a stretchy halyard may cause the sail to lose its shape by releasing the tension on the sail over time, while a stretch-resistant halyard can help the sail maintain its shape in strong winds.

Q: Is it possible to splice or repair a damaged halyard or sheet?

A: It is possible to splice or repair a damaged halyard, depending on the extent of the damage and the material of the halyard. However, it’s essential to have the repair done by a professional or experienced sailor to ensure the halyard’s continued reliability and safety.

Q: How often should I replace my lines?

A: The lifespan of halyards and sheets can vary depending on factors such as usage, exposure to weather, and material. It’s recommended to regularly inspect your lines for wear and tear and replace them as needed. Condition is a much stronger indicator than age. Assuming light use and good condition, some materials like Stirotex have a longer lifespan, other materials may need to be replaced more often. In general, halyards and sheets should be replaced every 3-5 years for optimal safety and efficiency.

Related Posts

Full Battens vs Partial Battens vs 2 Full plus 2 Partial Battens

 Full Battens    VS    Partial Battens      At 

Precision Sails we are asked every day during our customer quote consultation  “Should I choose Full Battens or Partial Battens for my new mainsail?”  Whether you are cruising or racing you will need to examine the pros and cons of adding full battens to your main sail.Positive Aspects of Full […]

My Need for Cruising Speed Demands a Great Suit of Sails

My Need for Cruising Speed Demands a Great Suit of SailsI like to sail fast mostly in the heavy winds that Lake Ontario throws.

How to Fold a Sail (Mainsail or Headsail) For safe Storage

Knowing how to fold a sail correctly will make your sails last longer and make them easier to set. Replacement sails are an investment and folding them properly is important to their longevity.

" * " indicates required fields

Thanks for telling us a bit about yourself and your boat. Our team will send you a preliminary quote based on information we have gathered from sailors similar to you.

We will give you a call in order to narrow down the options on your quote and improve the accuracy. If you want us to call you at a specific time, feel free to schedule a time on our calendar!

Thanks for telling us a bit about yourself and your boat. Our team will reach out to offer some suggestions and get started on finding you the perfect sail!

• New Sailboats
• Sailboats 21-30ft
• Sailboats 31-35ft
• Sailboats 36-40ft
• Sailboats Over 40ft
• Sailboats Under 21feet
• used_sailboats
• Apps and Computer Programs
• Communications
• Fishfinders
• Handheld Electronics
• Plotters MFDS Rradar
• Wind, Speed & Depth Instruments
• Anchoring Mooring
• Running Rigging
• Sails Canvas
• Standing Rigging
• Diesel Engines
• Off Grid Energy
• Cleaning Waxing
• DIY Projects
• Repair, Tools & Materials
• Spare Parts
• Tools & Gadgets
• Cabin Comfort
• Ventilation
• Footwear Apparel
• Foul Weather Gear
• Mailport & PS Advisor
• Inside Practical Sailor Blog
• Activate My Web Access
• Reset Password
• Customer Service

• Free Newsletter

Dufour 44 Used Boat Review

Blue Jacket 40 Used Boat Review

Catalina 270 vs. The Beneteau First 265 Used Boat Match-Up

Ericson 41 Used Boat Review

How to Create a Bullet-Proof VHF/SSB Backup

Tips From A First “Sail” on the ICW

Tillerpilot Tips and Safety Cautions

Best Crimpers and Strippers for Fixing Marine Electrical Connectors

Solving the Dodger Dilemma

Polyester vs. Nylon Rode

Getting the Most Out of Older Sails

How (Not) to Tie Your Boat to a Dock

Fuel Lift Pump: Easy DIY Diesel Fuel System Diagnostic and Repair

Ensuring Safe Shorepower

Sinking? Check Your Stuffing Box

Why Choose the Wharram Design?

Winterizing: Make It Easy With Checklists

Boat Improvements for the Technically Illiterate

What Do You Do With Old Fiberglass Boats?

Stopping Holding-tank Odors

Giving Bugs the Big Goodbye

Galley Gadgets for the Cruising Sailor

The Rain Catcher’s Guide

Sailing Gear for Kids

What’s the Best Sunscreen?

UV Clothing: Is It Worth the Hype?

Preparing Yourself for Solo Sailing

R. Tucker Thompson Tall Ship Youth Voyage

On Watch: This 60-Year-Old Hinckley Pilot 35 is Also a Working…

On Watch: America’s Cup

On Watch: All Eyes on Europe Sail Racing

Dear Readers

• Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

Practical Sailors Guide to Choosing Cost-Efficient Halyard Materials

Practical sailor testers evaluate the many cordage choices available for both furling sail halyards and conventional sail halyards, with a look at the different rope fibers out there and a specific focus on cost vs. line stretch..

Sail performance is directly affected by the type and condition of your halyards. Upgrading your halyards to a low-stretch fiber helps ensure youre getting the sails full power, and it can add life your sails. After testing a sampling of lines from New England Ropes, Novatech Braids, Samson Rope, and Yale Cordage, Practical Sailor found that line stretch decreases significantly as cost increases. And while the very-low- to no-stretch high-tech lines often come with through-the-roof prices, there are low-stretch halyard options available for the budget-minded sailor. This article offers a line cost vs. line stretch analysis and an overview of the fibers available. UV resistance and other factors like abrasion resistance and ease of splicing will be the subject of future tests on these halyard materials.

                                                   ****

While considerable development continues in the realm of high-tech, high-budget halyards, cruising sailors and club racers face a variety of choices but few new products since our last comprehensive halyard comparison (“For All-Rope Halyards, Its Hard to Beat New England Ropes Sta-Set,” December 1997). One recent addition to the range is VPC, from New England Ropes, which brings the low-stretch, low-creep characteristics of Vectran into an affordable upgrade from polyester double braid. Creep is a fibers taffy-like gradual elongation over time while under a static tensile load, and given how most sailors today are relying on at least one permanently hoisted sail, this factor will likely come into play.

Over the last decade or so, the large production-boat builders have found that more than 80 percent of new-boat buyers are choosing in-mast furling mainsails on boats 30 feet and longer. These boats all have roller-furling headsails, too, so the selection of halyard material is simplified somewhat: The halyards for these sails are rarely handled, so “hand” becomes a less-important quality to consider.

Another attribute, though, becomes more important: durability under load. The working end of the halyard spends its life under tension, bent around a sheave at the masthead. Because the sail remains aloft indefinitely, the halyard is rarely inspected, and must be trusted to perform without supervision throughout a season, or longer, if the boat is sailed year-round. All of these lines, except the Amsteel, have polyester covers, so one can expect similar service lives.

For sailors who have conventional sails and use the halyards on a regular basis, hand remains important. So too does the lines willingness to run free without snagging. And these sailors have plenty of opportunities to inspect the line for wear at its critical points.

Clutch slippage is also a factor. In last years rope clutch test (“ Clutch Play ,” April 2006), we used three of the halyards featured in this comparison. Subjected to 400-pound loads in two of our preferred clutches, the Lewmar D2 (the easiest to bleed) and the Spinlock XAS (the best gripping), Yales Vizzion proved to hold the best (average slippage 3/8-inch), followed by Samson Warpspeed (13/32-inch) and New England Ropes Sta-Set (7/16-inch). We will be looking at all these halyards clutch performance in a future test.

Regardless of sail type or deck gear, one factor always affects the choice of line for any halyard, and that is stretch. When the goal is to get the best performance out of a sail, its halyard should stretch as little as possible when it comes under additional load from a freshening breeze or sailing closer to the wind. When a halyard stretches, it allows the sail fabric to move aft. The draft of the sail moves with it. This results in the driving force rotating aft, creating more heeling moment and more weather helm. The boat is sailing less efficiently than it could, and you may be forced to reef earlier than you otherwise would.

As its fabric pulls aft, a sail on a mast track will scallop between the slides, and horizontal wrinkles will form at the slides. Apart from looking unseamanlike and making life less pleasant aboard, this also puts uneven stress on the sail fabric, which could&emdash;depending on how much sailing you do under these conditions&emdash;shorten its useful life.

So, heres another reason to renew your halyards, and perhaps even upgrade them: to save wear and tear on your sails.

Ironically, a cruising-boat owners budget is often expended on comforts and electronics, while the sails, which one would suppose are the boats reason for existing in the first place, get short shrift. When it finally comes time to specify the halyards and running rigging, the pot is empty. Ultimately, for the sake of a hundred dollars saved on a halyard, the owner never sees the full performance he paid for in his new sail.

For an average boat in the mid-30-foot range, a new mainsail can cost from $2,000 upward, and the premium for a “performance” mainsail over a basic Dacron model starts at about $500. Anyone investing that much would be well advised to hoist it on a halyard that does it justice. For about $100 over the cost of a basic polyester double braid, halyard stretch can be reduced by 75 percent, and the sail will be better able to deliver its promised performance.

By the same token, if you have an aging sail thats rather stretchy along the luff, you could eke another season or two out of it while you save up for a new one by spending a couple of hundred dollars on a less stretchy halyard. The halyard you bought will still be good for the new sail a few years down the road.

Another benefit of a low-stretch halyard is that it reduces effort in the cockpit. Trim-conscious sailors will find they have to make fewer adjustments to the halyard to keep the draft where they want it.

How We Tested

For this article, we looked exclusively at the cost/stretch aspect of new halyards. The Stretch to Cost Table on page 14 shows quite dramatically how great the benefit is for an additional investment that is really quite small, relative to the cost of a new sail. While we specifically looked at a main halyard, the results apply equally to a jib halyard for the same reasons.

For our comparison, to keep the math simple, our hypothetical test boat was somewhere around 35 feet, with a mainsail luff length of 40 feet. Running the halyard back to the cockpit, we assumed 50 feet of line between the winch and the head of the fully hoisted sail. Again for simplicity, we assumed a halyard load of 1,000 pounds, which is a reasonable maximum to expect the mainsail to exert on it&emdash;after that, its time to reef. (Once reefed, stretch resistance becomes even more important on a conventional sail, because the exposed halyard is now longer by the depth of the reef. When a luff-furling sail is reefed, adjusting halyard tension is pointless.)

For each sample of cordage we examined, we took the manufacturer-supplied stretch characteristics and calculated the stretch in inches that would result from our 1,000-pound load acting on the 50-foot standing part of the halyard. To simplify the pricing, we assumed buying 100 feet of line to provide an ample tail in the cockpit and enough extra length to allow “freshening the nip” a few times over the halyards life.

Our baseline rope was double-braid polyester, 7/16-inch in diameter. This kept our assumed 1,000-pound load at no more than 15 percent of the lines average breaking strength. A smaller diameter would probably suffice in the real world, but it would stretch more, precisely the opposite of what were trying to achieve.

The resulting graph of inches of stretch plotted against cost produced a dramatic curve, from which its quite obvious that the first $100 you spend over the basic polyester double-braid halyard buys a significant reduction in stretch. We should note that the values used for stretch are interpolated from data provided by the manufacturers in their literature or on their websites. While they may not be precise, we are confident that they reliably illustrate the argument. We intend to do our own testing on all of these lines, including stretch, to be reported on in a future issue.

The prices used in the graph are the lowest prices we found for each product. While researching these, we were reminded of how important it is to shop around. The price sources we used, and they are by no means exhaustive, appear in the “PS Value Guide Halyards” at left.

Learning the Ropes

The fibers commonly used in the products we studied are polyester, ultra-high-molecular weight polyethyline (UHMPE, sometimes written UHMWPE), para-aramids, and liquid-crystal polyester polyarylate (LCP). Polyolefin (polypropylene) is also used to add bulk to some fiber combinations.

This side of the Atlantic, polyester is usually known by its Dupont trade name, Dacron. It is inexpensive (relatively), has good tensile strength, and resists degradation by UV light, but it has a low Youngs Modulus (meaning, its stretchy). Compared to 7×19 stainless-steel wire, which was commonly used in the past for halyards, its very stretchy.

UHMPE comes under two common brand names, Spectra and Dyneema. Each of these has variants, but thats beyond the scope of this article. UHMPE has high strength and low stretch, which in combination with its generally good resistance to UV makes it well suited to halyards.

Para-aramids include Kevlar, Technora, and Twaron, variations on a molecular theme from different manufacturers. They exhibit similar strength to UHMPE at a lower price, but the trade-off is theyre not totally happy bending, they don’t perform well under abrasion, and they don’t stand up to sunlight as well. In sailing applications, they are usually found protected by a covering of some sort, except when they are the protection&emdash;against the heat generated when highly loaded lines are blown off a winch.

Vectran is the only LCP found in marine rope. It has high strength, low stretch, and better abrasion resistance than the para-aramids. It is far less susceptible to creep that UHMPE, and for that reason, it is useful when under standing loads. It, too, needs protection from UV.

Polyolefin, sometimes listed as MFP, is an inexpensive fiber used to bulk up small volumes of high-tech fibers to increase diameter and improve “hand.” It is basically polypropylene, and used by itself, appears in ski-tow ropes and on life-saving equipment. Its light, and it floats, but it doesn’t stand up to UV light.

Plotting Price vs. Stretch

Plotting cost against stretch using the same 1,000-pound load on a range of ropes produces a very clear picture of what youre buying. (For loads other than our 1,000 pounds, scaling up or down should produce the same relationship between stretch and cost.) You can almost halve the stretch by simply upgrading from 7/16-inch Sta-Set to the same size in Sta-Set X. Going up another level (see rope list) halves the stretch again, even with a reduction to 3/8-inch diameter to reduce cost. As stretch approaches zero, cost goes through the roof, but thats of little consequence even to the serious club racer, because several choices lie within a reasonable price point.

One way to use the graph would be to pick a maximum cost youd be comfortable with and look at the individual plots to the left of that number. Youll find that some of them are higher-tenacity material at smaller diameters. We figured 5/16-inch (8 millimeters) is as small as is comfortable to handle. Depending on your boats current winches, rope clutches, and sheaves, these may not work for you.

We included one single-braid line, Amsteel, simply for comparison. If youre tempted to go that route, you should consult a rigger about covering it so that it can lock properly in stoppers.

UV resistance and other factors like abrasion resistance and ease of splicing will be the subject of future tests on these halyard materials.

Conclusions

When it comes to making your decision, you will have to take into account factors beyond dollars and stretch&emdash;nothings simple. And until we do further testing, any definitive recommendations would be premature. Nonetheless, using the accompanying tables you should be able to find a good halyard that best meets your requirements and budget.

First: What size and type of line do you currently have? If this is original equipment, the entire halyard system may have been designed around it, from the masthead sheaves to the turning blocks at the base of the mast, to the clutch on the cabin top. Before electing to go down a size, or even two, in line diameter, you need to be sure this wont trigger a cascade of modifications necessary to accommodate it.

If you had wire, you will have to change the masthead sheaves to suit any synthetic line (and those sheaves are probably due for replacement anyway). Sheaves grooved for wire will make short work of a synthetic replacement. The higher high-tech lines, such as the 12-strand, single-braid Dyneema or Spectra (Amsteel, for example), work best under high loads in a sheave with a flatter-profile groove. The line flattens, reducing the difference in tension between the inner and outer fibers. Double-braid lines, which are the most suited to cruisers and casual racers anyway, are less fussy.

Going down a size in diameter will help your halyard systems efficiency by reducing internal friction as it turns around the now relatively larger sheaves. Most rope manufacturers specify a sheave-to-line-diameter ratio of 8:1 for optimal performance, but you rarely see this in many production-boat setups.

Going down two sizes, from 7/16-inch to 5/16-inch, will certainly get you into the high-tech material within your budget, but you may not get the stretch savings you hoped for. Also, you may find your stoppers wont accommodate the line.

Check the range of sizes your clutch or stopper will handle. If it will accommodate a size smaller than your present halyard, you can move up to a higher tenacity fiber core for better performance and down in diameter, and still gain the low-stretch advantage.

If you have permanently hoisted sails, you might want to look at a low-creep fiber for the halyards. This usually means a Vectran blend, and therefore more expense, but you wont suffer from gradual loss in luff tension as the season goes by. Because your sail is either all the way up or off the boat, the fall of the halyard, the part that would be hung on the mast or wherever when the sail is up, doesn’t have to be high-tech. A good rigger will be able to combine a single-braid standing part with a cover-only tail, saving both weight aloft and money.

Make sure you make both the tail and standing part long enough to permit freshening the nip a few times. Where the halyard sits on the masthead sheave, it will wear, and it will be exposed to ultraviolet (UV) light. Regular inspection, and cutting off and replacing the splice once in a while should prevent an untimely failure.

All of the lines discussed here can be spliced, but their differing constructions will dictate just what type of splice to use. Splice required is listed in the Value Guide, with additional information available on the manufacturers websites. Most of the suppliers also offer splicing services, and depending on line size and splice complexity, $15 to $30 seems like a bargain when measured against frustration most of us part-time riggers will suffer should we attempt the job ourselves.

• Practical Sailor Halyard Lines Value Guide
• Stretching Dollars
• Splice-Ability

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Stopping Mainsheet Twist

So why is the plot of price vs. strech included?

Where are the “accompanying tables” ?

To Karen- The tables are in the Also With this Article links at the bottom. To Darrell- Your pricing guide is really out of date. APS does not exist anymore. Hall Spars does not appear to sell line. DR Marine does not sell Portland Braid. The prices seem way out of date. Novabraid Polyspec was extremely hard to find online which raises concerns about it. I found it from The Chandlery Online for $1.69/ft.

LEAVE A REPLY Cancel reply

Log in to leave a comment

Latest Videos

The Performance Sailboat from Island Packet: Blue Jacket 40 Boat Review

Top 3 Winter Boat HACKS!

Cabo Rico 34 Boat Review

Super Shallow Draft Sailboat: The Leeboard Sharpie

Latest sailboat review.

• Privacy Policy
• Do Not Sell My Personal Information
• Online Account Activation
• Privacy Manager

Selecting Rope – Length, Diameter, Type

Published by rigworks on july 10, 2019.

Question : Do you have guidelines for selecting halyards, sheets, etc. for my sailboat?

From the Rigger :  First, if your old rope served its purpose but needs replacing, we recommend duplicating it as closely as possible to ensure that the replacement is the correct length and works with your existing clutches, winches, etc. The best bet is to shop with your old rope in hand. If you need to replace a halyard, please don’t pull it out of the mast. We would be happy to loan you a tagline (strong and thin) to use as a ‘place holder’, or we are always happy to visit your boat and tag it out for you.

When buying new running rigging (i.e. rope), you will want to consider length, diameter, stretch/performance, material/construction and, of course, price. Below are some rough guidelines to help you make an educated purchase. These guidelines are particularly useful when estimating the cost of a project. Then we can help you fine-tune your rope selection and length before cutting.

Guidelines for Rope Length:

• Main Halyard – Mast length x 2.5
• Genoa Halyard – Mast length x 2.5
• Genoa Halyard (fractional rig) – Mast length x 2
• Spinnaker / gennaker halyard – Mast length x 2.5
• Main Sheet – Boat length x 2.5 (varies with the mechanical purchase being used)
• Genoa Sheet – Boat length x 1 to 1.5
• Spinnaker Sheet / Guy – Boat length x 2
• Asymmetric Spinnaker Sheet – Boat length x 2.5 to 3

Control Lines:

• Outhaul – Boom length x 2
• Boom Vang – Boom length x 2
• Cunningham – Boom length x 1
• Reefing Line (reef 1) – Boom length x 2.5
• Reefing Line (reef 2) – Boom length x 3

If your running rigging leads back to the cockpit, remember to account for that in your length. And if in doubt, too long is always better than too short!

Guidelines for Rope Diameter and Type:

Diameter and performance are determined by your boat length, the function of the rope, and the style of sailing that you do. For example, low stretch is very important in a halyard but not necessarily in a sheet. A high-performance racer might require a lighter, stronger, lower stretch (i.e. more expensive!) rope than a cruiser. There is no ‘one-size-fits-all’ with running rigging.

Taking into account boat length and sailing style, the attached chart suggests rope diameter and type for each piece of running rigging:  Rope Diameter and Type

We have a huge rope wall at Rigworks and are very proud of our selection and expertise. We are happy to help you pick the best rope for your application. So, with or without your old rope in hand, stop by and chat with our staff. We always look forward to seeing you!

Related Posts

Ask the Rigger

Do your masthead sheaves need replacing.

Question: My halyard is binding. What’s up? From the Rigger: Most boat owners do not climb their masts regularly, but our riggers spend a lot of time up there. And they often find badly damaged Read more…

Standing Rigging (or ‘Name That Stay’)

Question: When your riggers talk about standing rigging, they often use terms I don’t recognize. Can you break it down for me? From the Rigger: Let’s play ‘Name that Stay’… Forestay (1 or HS) – Read more…

Spinlock Deckvest Maintenance

Question: What can I do to ensure that my Spinlock Deckvest is well-maintained and ready for the upcoming season? From the Rigger: We are so glad you asked! Deckvests need to be maintained so that Read more…

Fast Dispatch, Fast Delivery and a 5 Star Rated Service

• MENS SAILING CLOTHING
• DYNEEMA TRAPEZE LINES AND ROPES
• SINGLE SHEAVE BLOCKS
• Gelcoat Fillers
• Dry Lubricants
• Adhesive Glues
• Hooks & Clips
• Catamaran Launching Trollies
• Jockey Wheels
• Hitch Locks
• Lighting Board
• Breakaway Cables
• Clew Straps
• Upper Masts
• Lower Masts
• Rope Thimbles
• Wind Indicators & Burgees
• Parrel Beads
• Whipping Twine
• Sailmakers Palm
• Digital Compasses
• DEVOTI ILCA
• LASER SAIL BOATS & DINGHYS
• BAHIA SAIL BOATS & DINGHYS
• Numbers & Letters
• Dinghy Covers
• Under Covers
• Catamaran Covers
• Single Handed
• Double Handed
• 18 Foot Skiff
• Exocet Moth
• Musto Skiff
• Dart 15/ Sprint 15
• Hurricane 5.9
• Laser Bahia
• Laser Cascais
• Laser Funboat
• Laser Stratos

Your Cart is Empty

• £0.00 Subtotal

Tax included and shipping calculated at checkout

Order before midday Monday to Friday and we will ship your order the same day.

• 01268 222912
• Accessories
• Laser Products
• Sails & Covers
• Rope Lengths
• Parts By Boat
• Boat Care & Cleaning
• Splicing Tools
• Boat Covers
• Dinghy Rope Lengths
• Laser Rope Lengths
• RS Rope Lenghts
• Catamaran Rope Lengths
• Laser Performance
• Topper Sailboats
• Other Boats

• Mens Sailing Clothing
• Womens Sailing Clothing
• Junior Sailing Clothing
• Repair Kits
• Skiff Suits
• Life Jackets
• Trapeze Harnesses
• Buoyancy Aids
• Hiking Pads & Pants
• Hiking / Toe Straps

Zhik Superwarm

• 100m Rope Reel
• 50m Rope Reel
• Polyester Ropes
• Control Lines
• Double Braids
• Braid On Braid
• Anchor Lines & Ropes
• Spools & Reels
• Windsurfing

Mini Spools

• Single Block
• Double Block
• Triple Block
• Soft Attach
• Split Rings & Pins
• Inspection Hatches & Covers
• Bungs & Sockets
• Rudder & Tiller Parts
• Bushes & Fairleads
• Marine Screws
• Penny Washers
• VHF Aerials & Antennas
• Marine Tapes
• Traveller Systems And Parts
• Traveller Blocks
• Pico Hull & Deck Fittings
• Hull & Deck Fittings
• Laser Boats
• Laser Sails
• Laser Sail Packages
• Laser Spars
• Laser Rig Packages
• Laser Foils
• Laser Hull & Deck Fittings
• Laser Ropes
• Laser Dinghy Covers
• Devoti ILCA Boats
• ILCA Sail Packages
• ILCA Rig Package
• Devoti D-Zero Boats
• Devoti D-Zero Parts
• Devoti KDK Boats
• ILCA Charter Boats

New Devoti ILCA

Search our chandlery

Picking the right halyard rope

March 28, 2020 3 min read

Here at Sailing Chandlery we have over 100 different reels of rope on the wall all with their own uses and in various colours.

We understand that if you were to stand in front of them it's hard to know what is for what. In this article we are going to help you by providing advice on what the right halyard rope might be for your use.

This article is focussed on dinghy halyards but we also sell halyards for cruisers and yachts.

You can explore our halyard rope options on our website.

When we think of rope halyards we think of the following categories:

• Flag halyards
• Main halyards
• Kite/spinnaker halyards
• Jib halyards

Most sailors automatically look at a dyneema rope option for halyards, but that's not always needed for your boat.

We recommend you also look at what your boats manufacturer is recommending for the job.

Flag Halyards

Believe it or not we sell a fair amount of rope to be used as flag halyards. In all instances we recommend an 8 plait standard polyester, it's a basic rope but is more than up to the job for hoisting your flags on your boat or race box.

Main Halyards

Our main halyard rope recommendation will depend on how the sail is attached when fully hoisted. If like our catamaran the rope clips onto a hook at the top then you only need a basic rope to get the sail up, and then the load is taken on the hook and the sail is secured in place with the downhaul.

If you are using a cleat then you're going to need a rope which is grippy, and also will resist some stretch. If your boat is going to be putting minimal pressure on the halyard rope then you should look at an 8 plait pre stretched rope, if there is going to be more pressure then upgrading to a dyneema core rope would be a good idea.

In most cases with dyneema it's best to use a dyneema core rope with a harder wearing polyester cover/jacket. If you can attach your halyard through a loop then a 12 strand dyneema could be a good option as it's stronger as a pure dyneema and won't have any wear in a cleat.

Kite/Spinnaker Halyards

Some sailors like to have a tapered spinnaker halyard, in this case you'll be looking at a dyneema core rope, or you could make up your own using 12 strand dyneema and a hollow braid rope.

Most sailors who use dyneema don't taper halyards and use the dyneema core rope with jacket as standard.

If you're not bothered about tapering, and you don't need dyneema then an 8 plait pre stretched polyester rope for smaller sails would be perfect.

Jib Halyards

Some jibs are hoisted using a wire halyard with a tail rope to follow the metal wire halyard up inside the mast. For tails we recommend a 12 strand polyester rope such as Evolution Splice, this can be easily spliced onto the wire halyard.

The same process should follow as the main halyard when picking a jib halyard. If the mast tension is taken up by the jib halyard then dyneema should be your choice of halyard rope in this instance.

Our Most Popular Halyard Ropes

8 Plait Standard Polyester - 

https://www.sailingchandlery.com/products/4mm-8-plait-standard-polyester-rope

8 Plait Pre Stretched Polyester - 

https://www.sailingchandlery.com/products/4mm-8-plait-pre-stretched-rope

SK78 Dyneema Core - 

https://www.sailingchandlery.com/products/4mm-dyneema-kingfisher-evolution-race-rope

12 Strand Dyneema SK78 - 

https://www.sailingchandlery.com/products/kingfisher-3mm-dyneema-sk78-compact-braid

All of these ropes are available in various diameters and with different colour options.

If you've got any questions about our ropes and what might be best for your boat then we are always happy to help. Simply give us a call, or drop us an email [email protected].

Recent Articles

• Stay Ahead of the Game: 5 Must-Have Winter Sailing Clothing Additions for 2024
• Dinghy Rigging Service
• 8 Fantastic Features of the 2024 Zhik Superwarm X Sailing Wetsuit
• Devoti to Build the SB20 Keelboat
• Laser Pico vs Ocean Play Pico
• Testing the D-Zero from Devoti Sailing
• Summer Sailing Clothing Top Picks
• Rooster at Sailing Chandlery
• Gill Start of Season Sailing Kit Guide from Sailing Chandlery
• New From ZhIk in 2024 at Sailing Chandlery

Let customers speak for us

Great product and only needs a small amount. Delivered as promised.

Great product. Works every time and delivered when promised. Thanks.

Excellent product for my shooting flags so I can see how the windage is.

Great product

Used 2 of these to replace the little plastic ones on a supernova tiller. Much better and now pull in the right direction

This is the perfect tool to assist in tightening my Dart Trampoline. It grips the rope far better than you can with your hands.

After having my Previous Superwarm X Suit for over 5 years whilst working as a watersports instructor this is a great improvement over the previous suit. Warmer and softer linning throughout the inside of the suit and I will continue to use the suit all year round like my old suit.

Someone at the club “borrowed “ one of my Solo’s bungs. I bought two so now I have a spare.

Great to have something that goes over everything if a quick solution is required

had ordered one on amazon before, received the wrong size received the correct size now :)

A simple moulded part of good quality, supplied quickly and well packed.

Turned out that I had ordered the wrong make, my camcleats being Allen not Harken, however by drilling the two fixings holes out by 1mm and filing two small notches they fitted perfectly.

SIGN UP TO OUR NEWSLETTER

Save up to 40% on your next order.

High School and College Sailors - 15% Off Apparel & Accessories - LEARN MORE

• Call Us +1-503-285-5536
• Sign in & Register
• Recently Viewed

West Coast Sailing offers a full selection of marine grade sailing line and rigging including One Design rigging, pre cut line, line kits, and line by the foot for halyards, sheets, control lines, and more. Shop running rigging and standing rigging today from trusted brands including Marlow, Robline, Samson, Kingfisher, New England Ropes, and more.

• Qty in Cart

Laser / ILCA 8:1 Cunningham TecPRO (Complete)

Laser / ILCA Vang Complete TecPRO (Allen Vang Block)

J/80 Main Halyard w/ Shackle

J/70 Backstay Flicker

Thistle Main Halyard Tapered (6mm Excel)

Thistle Spinsheet Continuous Tapered (6mm Excel Racing)

Melges 24 4:1 Main Halyard Vectran

Melges 24 Jib Sheet (Continuous/Tapered)

J/24 Spinnaker Sheet (Ultra Lite)

J/22 Twings (Pair) with Ring

Laser / ILCA Outhaul TecPRO 6:1 (Complete)

10mm Marlow D2 Racing

8mm Marlow D2 Racing

Laser / ILCA Vang Control PRO

Laser / ILCA 8:1 Cunningham PRO (Complete)

Laser / ILCA Outhaul PRO 6:1 (Complete)

• Total: items /
• Add all to cart

Adding your products to cart

Sailboat line & rigging - halyards, sheets, control lines & more.

Line is a critical part of any sailboat, from small dinghy to super yacht and everything in between. West Coast Sailing offers a wide variety of line and marine rope for every sailor from leading line manufacturers. Whether you're looking for a new control line for your Laser vang, jib sheet for your J24, replacement halyard for your cruising boat, or a high strength low stretch line for a high performance application, we've got what you need to get you back on the water. Shop by common application, diameter, material, and more with options available from Robline, Marlow, Alpha Ropes, and New England Ropes. All line sold by the foot with line kits for select boats and small diameter mini spools available.

Shop By Boat

West Coast Sailing offers custom rigging, line kits, and pre cut line for many popular one design dinghies and keelboats. These products make it simple to get the right line for your sailboat and you can be confident they will work great.

• Shop Line Kits
• Shop One Design Rigging
• Shop Pre Cut Line

Shop By Line Type

Line has come a long way in the past few decades, and current options offer great value and performance. We offer a variety of h igh tech Lines, which generally feature a non-stretch core for strength, durable cruising lines, which are typically polyester and less expensive but still strong and durable, or Dyneema, Spectra, & Vectran for non-stretch control line, halyard, and sheet applications. Shockcord bungee and floating Polypropylene also available. Scroll down this page for recommendations for line material based on your boat size and application.

• Shop by Line Type

Shop By Diameter

West Coast Sailing carries over 80 different lines from 6 of the best rope manufacturers in diameters ranging from 1mm all the way up to 12mm. Use our handy category filters to narrow in on the specific diameter of lines that work for your application, and then pick the one that meets your exact criteria for performance, color, or price.

• Shop by Line Diameter

Additional Line Options & Services

In addition to per foot line, pre cut line, line kits, and custom rigging, West Coast Sailing also offers mini spools, splicing equipment, and custom rigging services. If you can dream it, our team can build it! 

• Shop Mini Spools
• Shop Splicing Tools
• Shop Custom Rigging

Line Fiber Type / Material Guide

Line Application Guide - Dinghy

Line Application Guide - Racing

Line Application Guide - Performance Cruising

Line Diameter Guide

Recommended Diameter by Application & Boat Length

If you are replacing an existing line, the easiest way to determine what diameter you need is to match what you already have. This can be done with a caliper or by close estimation with a tape measure. For example, if you've previously used a 7mm halyard and it has performed well, another 7mm line is likely a great choice. In most applications, there is some flexibility in the exact diameter that can be used. Most blocks, for example, have an 'ideal' diameter (ie, the line diameter that runs most effectively though the block's sheave) but also have a range so that you can run a slightly thinner or slightly thicker line. If you have a halyard that is getting hung up in your rig, stepping down 1-2mm might help the halyard run more efficiently. If you have a larger boat or rig and want to run a thinner halyard, consider a double braid line that features a Dyneema or Spectra core for strength. A similar approach can be applied to replacing sheets, control lines, and other line on your sailboat.

Double Braid vs Single Braid

Two terms you will often see in line descriptions are 'double braid' and 'single braid', which refer to the way the line is constructed. At the most basic level, a double braid line has a cover and a core whereas a single braid does not, but there are other important distinctions to consider when making a line selection.

Single Braids  are made up of either 8 or 12 strands that are braided into a circular pattern, half clockwise and half counter clockwise. This produces a line that is supple, absorbs twists, and tends not to kink. There are two types of single braid lines: performance single braids and polyester/blended single braids. Performance single braids are made from fibers with very low stretch and designed to handle extreme loads - think Dyneema, Spectra, or Vectran. Polyester/blended single braids, sometimes called hollow braid, are soft and easy to grip, built for sheets and hand-adjusted control lines. These are less common than performance single braid lines but recommended in a few specific applications.

Double Braids , sometimes called braid on braid, have a braided core within a braided outer jacket or cover. This creates a strong, durable, smooth-running line that is easy to handle. Double braids are used for the vast majority of all running rigging on sailboats including sheets, halyards and control lines for both cruising or racing. There are two types to consider: polyester double braids and high-tech double braids. Polyester double braids, found most commonly on recreational and cruising sailboats, have a polyester cover with polyester core. These are low maintenance, affordable, and long-lasting, while offering relatively low stretch and high working loads. For additional strength and minimal stretch, consider high-tech double braids. These lines typically feature a Dyneema or Spectra core (non-stretch) inside a polyester or polyester/dyneema blend cover for additional durability. They are more expensive but often the go to choice for high performance racing boats.

Sailing Programs & Clubs - West Coast Sailing offers special program pricing on purchases for sailing programs, yacht clubs, and community sailing organizations. Visit our YC & Program Purchasing  page for more details.

Subscribe To Our Newsletter

Sign up for our newsletter to receive exclusive discounts, new product announcements, and upcoming sales.

• Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
• What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media
• Media New media New comments
• Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com
• Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale
• Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday
• Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe

Simple rigging help for routing Main Halyard to Cockpit

• Thread starter JonnyQuest
• Start date Mar 6, 2011
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

I am interested in re-routing the main halyard back to the cockpit as my crew is a bit inexperienced (being 3 and 6 years old!). A buddy of mine looked at my current rigging and suggested simply swapping out a single block for a double block at the base of the mast, a double block for a triple block along the route back towards the cockpit, and the current double clutch with a triple clutch. He didn't have experience to help with choosing the right equipment, so I'd like some help here at SBO for my 27 ft 1975 Oday. 1. Is this rigging idea (using blocks and rope clutch) a good idea for a main halyard? 2. I don't currently use a winch for raising the main; will I need one after running my halyard back to the cockpit? (If mechanical assistance would be needed, is there another means of accomplishing that other than fixing a winch to the cabin roof?) 3. How do I determine the correct block and clutch for this application? Defender and West Marine catalogs do not appear to have the guidance in a form I can figure out for my application. Hooray! Its starting to warm up along the Gulf Coast. Any help with my rigging adaptation would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, JQ PS- Photos attached show the current setup of the main halyard, blocks for the cunningham and outhaul (if I recall correctly), and the double clutch.  

Attachments

My Catalina 250 WK has a block at the base of the mast, then a rope guide (fairlead ?), then a rope clutch like in your picture. From the rope clutch I can run the halyard to my starboard jib winch which is located on the cabin top. And I do need the winch for the last few feet if I wind is getting to the main sail. Taking the sail down I step on the halyard pinning it to the deck, then release the rope clutch. I let the sail down one fold at a time by momentarily lifting my foot off the halyard and deck.  

Scott T-Bird

You may want to consider an ambitious project ... I think that a 27' boat like yours (very similar to my 27' boat) is best served by having as many controls led aft as possible. IMO you need a pair of winches on the coach roof. I use ours for the halyards and even sail controls. For instance, I don't think it's possible to use the vang or the outhaul effectively without the aid of the winch. Of course, when you lead the lines aft, you have all those friction losses that make a winch necessary, but the alternative is standing at the base of the mast, which on a boat as small as a 27' boat like ours is more awkward, and possibly more perilous, than on larger sized vessels. What you first need to install are blocks at the base of the mast. I have 3 heavy duty-sized blocks mounted on the mast (2 came with the boat and 1 I purchased from Rig Rite and it was very expensive) for halyards. The other sail controls (vang, outhaul, 2 reef controls, cunningham) are run through smaller blocks which I purchased and mounted to the base of the mast. You have to be careful to not over-do it. I was able to mount a few to the sail track at the base and the vang is mounted to a saddle at the base so I didn't need a separate block for that line. An alternative is install a collar at the base of the mast that can accomodate blocks or mount blocks to the coach roof itself. You have to decide which works best for your boat and your mounting capacity. The next step is to mount a deck organizer on the coach roof to turn the lines. My boat came with a pair of doubles, which I replaced with a pair of quads (doubles stacked). In my case I replaced Shaeffer organizers with just a different model of Shaeffers, so the swap was easy and I didn't have to change the holes. I see that you have a pair of organizers fashioned with a pad-eye and some blocks. I would replace those. My boat came with cabin top winches mounted behind the cleats. I removed the cleats and installed 4 clutches on each side (2 pairs of doubles - Spinlock XAS). You want the clutches mounted far enough ahead of the winches so that the lines coming out do not have to angle more than about 10 degrees, otherwise you will develop too much friction through the clutches. It appears that the best location for winches would be where you currently have the pair of clutches. You would need to remove them and move them forward (and add more). It my mind, it would be a worthwhile improvement despite the wholesale changes and costs involved. I still have to go to the base of the mast to hook the tack of the reefing cringle to the rams horn when reefing, but that is the only reason for needing to go forward. Here's a few pictures that show the set-up (winches are covered in a red cover). The organizers are just ahead of the hand rails and the Spinlocks are just aft of the end of the rails.  

It appears to me that you have a challenge due to a very round coach roof. You will have to fashion mounts for a flat surface if you add a winch and a deck organizer. Do you have the same double arrangement on port? It looks like there is just one line going to port. Could you move the cunningham or outhaul over to port? That would free up a sheave and clutch slot for the halyard. I guess you still need a mast block. That could be done with a double as suggested by your friend. I think Scott is right when he says you will want a winch.  

My cabin top winches are Lewmar #6. They are perfectly suitable on our boat. I forgot to mention that I can probably raise the sails without the winch but I typically use the winch to make sure that tension is suffient for those breezy days.  

Thanks for the rigging help Thanks to all of you, the suggestions and pointers have helped me out a lot, particularly in ways to re-route existing lines to use my existing clutches for the halyard. JVB: I think I can get away with rerouting my halyard right away back through an existing clutch and then try out the jib winch to see if the angle is too harsh--I like that I can try it out first. Scott: I suspect that the angle from my existing clutches to my jib winch is too steep, and would develop too much friction as you pointed out. I also hear you about making a wholesale change-out, if I can swing that cost right now. Ed: I could move the cunningham or outhaul over to port, which might be a good idea to free up one of the existing clutches. I am leaning towards a winch as I almost need the mechanical help with my current setup--though that may be due to another rigging issue. Joe: Great info about the cam, clam, and V cleats--particularly regarding using a new cleat for a cunningham or outhaul line instead. Brilliant. Also reminds me that the cam cleat I do have is shot and due for replacement, so I'll incorporate that into my project when I do it. I also appreciate the info that the mount would fail before the block hardware would--that I only need to match the hardware to the line size. I'll mull it all over and come up with a suitable game plan. Ya'll have been a great help. Fair winds, JQ  

• This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…

By Product Categories

Small Boat Blocks

Big Boat Blocks

Complementary Hardware

Travelers & Genoa Leads

Mainsail Handling

Headsail Handling

Mooring Solutions

Spare Parts

Accessories

Harken Canvas

Sportfishing

Fly Soft-Attach Blocks

Carbo Air Blocks

Small Boat Classic

Flip-Flop Small Boat

GP Catamaran Ceramic Mainsheet Systems

Protexit™ Exit Blocks

Through-Deck

Wire High-Strength

Dinghy Vang

Small Boat Deck Organizers

Midrange Classic

Midrange Deck Organizers

Zircon Blocks

Element Blocks

Black Magic Air Blocks

Cruising ESP Blocks

Megayacht Blocks

Stainless Steel Blocks

Black Magic Air Runners

FlatWinder Powered Blocks

Mastbase Blocks

Over-the-Top

Crossover Blocks

Big Boat Deck Organizers

Cam Cleats & Kits

Cam Cleat Accessories

Cam Cleat Bases

Stand-Up Bases

Deck Organizers

Spinnaker Pole Cars

Soft Attachments

Fixed Padeyes

Removable Padeyes

Bolt-Down Fairleads

Grand Prix Jib Leads

Halyard Tensioners

Tiller Extensions

Peter's Desk Drawer

Dinghy Jib Leads

Crossbow Pivoting Self-Tacking Jib Traveler

13 mm Micro

22 mm Small Boat

27 mm Midrange

32 mm Big Boat

Windward Sheeting

42 mm Mini-Maxi

T-Track Genoa Lead

Access Rail System

13 mm AA Battcar System

22 mm A Battcar System

27 mm B Battcar System

32 mm C Battcar System

18 mm Switch Battcar System

26 mm Switch Battcar System

26 mm Trysail Switch

32 mm Switch Battcar System

32 mm Trysail Switch

40 mm Switch Battcar System

40 mm Trysail Switch System

Furling Mainsail Outhaul Systems

Single Line Reefing

Harken Vang-Master

Carbo Racing Foil

Small Boat Furling

Small Boat Underdeck

Reflex Furling

MKIV Jib Reefing & Furling

MKIV Underdeck Jib Reefing & Furling

Furling Accessories

Powered Furling

MKIV Ocean Furling

SnubbAir (Not a Winch)

Grand Prix Winches

Air Winches

Circuit Breakers

Analog Switches

Digital System Switch

Aluminum, Chrome & Bronze Winch Handles

Carbo OneTouch Locking Winch Handle

Service Kits

CLR Mooring Winches

Electric Captive Reel Winches

Hydraulic Captive Reel Winches

UniPower Radial

Single-Acting Integral Backstay Adjuster

Single-Acting Cylinders

Locking Cylinders

Double-Pull Cylinders

Grand Prix Cylinders

Hydraulic Cylinder Rod End Blocks

Hydraulic Cylinder End Fittings

Control Valves

Control Manifolds

Control Panels

Compact Control Panel

Rotary Pumps

Hydraulic Pump Handles

Power Systems

Repair Kits

Ball Bearings

Block Spare Parts

Traveler Cars

Furling Spare Parts

Winch Spare Parts

Winch Service Kits

Blockheads Gear

Promo & Gifts

Marine Grip

Blue Performance

Jeep/Truck tops

Garage storage

One-design Covers

Boat accessories

Canvas bags

By Type of Sailing

Dinghy / One-Design

Offshore Racing

Coastal / Day Cruising

Bluewater Cruising

Megayachts / Custom

Service Guide

Tech/Service

deck layouts

Data Sheets (SDS)

How to choose

System diagrams

Calculators

Reeving diagrams

Traveler Purchase Selection Guide

How to Choose

Testimonials

Hoister Videos

Request a Quote

Request Samples

Fabric details

Cover Styles

Canvas Videos

Contract Services

Materials and Components

Our Equipment

Contract Cut-and-Sew Project Spotlight

• Harken at the front
• Safety & Rescue

Mainsheet Loading Calculator

The formula for mainsheet loading is not as widely accepted as that for genoa sheet loads and should only be used as a rough guide for offshore boats from 30 ft to 60 ft (9 m to 18 m).

Traveler car adjuster load is generally considered to be .2 times car load.

(E) Foot length of main in feet

(P) Luff length of the main in feet

(V) Wind speed in knots

(X) Length from aft end of boom to mainsheet attachment in feet

Mainsheet load in pounds:

(E) Foot length of main in meters

(P) Luff length of the main in meters

(X) Length from aft end of boom to mainsheet attachment in meters

Mainsheet load in kilograms:

Formulas are for typical cruising monohulls with fixed keel and Dacron® sails, sheets, and halyards. For all other types, please contact Harken for technical assistance in calculating loads.

Dacron is a registered trademark of E. I. du Pont de Nemours and Company or its affiliates.

Product Categories

• United States
• New Zealand
• United Kingdom

Lift. Launch.

Buy a Hoister on Harken.com. Get a free hat! Ends when we run out of free hats.

× You are using an outdated browser. Please upgrade your browser to improve your experience.

We Ship Worldwide! | FREE SHIPPING! for US Continental orders over $99. Click for details.

Shopping Cart

Your cart is currently empty..

FREE SHIPPING! for US Continental orders over $99 click for details

Sailboat Halyard Lines

Full range of halyards made out of the latest on halyard lines with all needed splicing and required shackles (when applicable).

MAURIPRO Sailing, your direct access to Sailboat Halyard Lines and all your other sailing and boating needs.

Copyright © 2024 MAURIPRO Sailing LLC.