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How to sail across the Indian Ocean: Everything you need to know

• October 12, 2020

In our latest special report, world cruising veteran Janneke Kuysters explains how to sail across the Indian Ocean

Indian Ocean spectacles include the Le Morne Brabant peninsula and ‘underwater waterfall’ of Mauritius. Photo: Roberto Moiola / Getty

“It’s still a long way to get home,” Carina Hammarlund muses. My partner Weitze van der Laan and I nod. Between us and our home ports in northern Europe it feels like we have to sail half the globe.

In the New Year yachts from all over the world gather in Phuket, Thailand, for the last legs of their circumnavigation . For yachts from northern Europe, there are three options to get back to their home countries.

The first is sailing across the Indian Ocean and rounding the Cape of Good Hope before sailing back up the Atlantic. The second is to sail around India and then head up the Red Sea, across the Mediterranean and then home. The third is to ship the yacht home from Thailand and jump on an aeroplane.

Sailing via the Cape of Good Hope costs around £47,000 and you need to allow 18 months

Every option has its advantages and disadvantages, and making the right decision depends on a lot of very personal factors. We spoke to cruisers who had chosen different solutions.

Shipping home

“We ran out of time,” Conny Hammarlund says. “We enjoyed four years of glorious cruising and found ourselves in Thailand, trying to decide which way to go back to Sweden.” An enticing job offer for his wife, Carina, made the decision simple: their Amel 56 Ultimo was going back on a ship and they would fly.

“For us it was a simple business case,” Carina says. “ The cost of the shipping versus the time we would save to get home and get back into a great job was better than using at least another six months to sail her through the Red Sea.

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“We prepared the boat in Phuket in March and in April she was picked up by the transport ship. Four weeks later she was offloaded in Copenhagen. We made the decision in January and were back home in April. She is our home, so we went to Copenhagen straight away to pick her up and sail her to our home port of Stockholm.”

Carina continues: “The advantages of shipping are simple: it is a quick and safe way to move the boat if you need to get back home relatively fast.”

Conny adds: “Of course there are disadvantages. Preparing the boat for transport is something you don’t do often in your sailing career, so you have to learn fast. Apart from that, it is expensive at first sight. But the comparison with the wear and tear of a long ocean crossing was not too unfavourable for shipping Ultimo .”

Slings are attached to Ultimo ’s chainplates…

There are three main elements to the cost of shipping a yacht . First the Hammarlunds spent two months preparing to ship, which cost around £5,000 (if we assume an average cruising cost per month to be £2,500 for fuel, maintenance, insurance and living costs). This was done at anchor in Thailand. The actual cost of shipping was £40,800, plus the two flights home from Thailand.

After Ultimo was relaunched in Copenhagen, the couple sailed straight to Sweden that same day, so they incurred no additional harbour costs.

The third minor cost was insurance: “We signed a third party insurance via the transport company which was £160. During the transport there was no insurance cost, because the boat is covered by the transporter,” Conny explained.

… before she’s hoisted aboard the transport ship

The couple did a lot of research before Ultimo was loaded onto the transport ship. “We compared prices, but also the experiences and feedback of other cruisers.” They based their choice not only on cost, but on customer references.

“We invested a lot of time in communication with the shipping company and the agent right from the start. This proved to be vital, because in the first stages a lot of information needs to be exchanged fast.

“During the transport they kept informing us and sent us all necessary details. You need to be flexible; schedules change, pick up dates and even locations can change because of regulations and delays.”

The Red Sea question

For a long time, sailing to Europe via the Red Sea was a definite ‘no go’ – yachts have been hijacked by Somali pirates, yachtsmen kidnapped and sometimes murdered. The efforts of the international maritime community have decreased the risk of piracy and past years have seen more and more boats successfully making this passage.

The Trintella 49 yacht Blue Roger in Port Ghalib, Egypt

In the 2019 season 53 boats travelled through the Red Sea in both directions. Among them were Frank Mulder and Sandra van Manen, who sailed their Trintella 49 Blue Roger through the Red Sea and Mediterranean en route to the Netherlands.

“For us the most important reason to travel through the Red Sea was the limited time we had,” Van Manen said. Her work commitments as a doctor and, even more importantly, the birth of a grandchild, urged them back home. She adds: “We didn’t feel like doing long crossings again and wanted to sail the shortest route back home.”

“And it was a quick passage,” Mulder says. “We left Thailand mid-January and were back home in the Netherlands at the end of May. It took us a month to travel the 1,000-mile track up the Red Sea and through the Suez Canal.

Frank Mulder and Sandra van Manen arrive safely home in the Netherlands

“There we left Blue Roger for two weeks in Egypt to fly home and be with our grandchild. After that, we sailed the passages in the Mediterranean, Bay of Biscay and North Sea at leisure.”

In Frank’s opinion: “Safety is not really an issue any more, especially with the help of UKMTO (United Kingdom Maritime Trade Operations). In the Gulf of Aden there is the biggest risk of piracy though.”

For Mulder, the disadvantages are: “The weather. You have to think of the Red Sea as a chimney: the hot deserts on both sides with the cooler water of the Med on the north. The wind blows from the north with a Force 6-7 all the time.

“The wind shifts make it very hard to tack. We’ve had days that we only moved forward with 1.8 knots. It’s very frustrating, and you have to be on your guard all the time.

“There are yachtsmen who anchor under way in between the reefs but they are poorly charted and we considered the risk too high. In that respect it was one of the most dangerous parts of our circumnavigation.”

For the five months it took Blue Roger to sail from Thailand to the Netherlands, the total cost was £12,500. “In addition to that,” Van Manen comments, “you need to budget for the transit of the Suez Canal (£450) and for a lot of small cash payments. At least £1,800 is needed to pay for all these expenses while you transit the Indian Ocean and Red Sea.”

Having access to good and recent information is vital. “We used the Red Sea Pilot and we were members of a secret Facebook group of Red Sea crossers . That was very helpful. And the contacts with UKMTO were invaluable,” Sandra says.

Cruisers sharing resources

“In Thailand an informal flotilla formed,” Frank explains. “But because of our time pressure, we didn’t join them. These flotillas have advantages, but there are disadvantages too, especially when some boats are a lot faster than others. There is a sense of security when travelling in a group. We went alone and never felt unsafe.”

Transiting the Red Sea is not a decision to be taken lightly and would require very thorough research. The reduction in piracy attacks reflects the greatly reduced number of vessels passing through the Gulf of Aden or venturing close to the Somali coastline, but the political issues which created the piracy problem remain, combined with increased instability in Yemen. Nevertheless, for those considering it, Frank Mulder has the following tips and suggestions:

• Take cash: at least $2,500 USD in small notes.
• Stay away from Saudi Arabia; they are not used to yachts there and treat (and charge) you like a large cargo ship. There are also security issues.
• Make sure the boat is ready to tackle strong upwind conditions; prepare for significant wear and tear and carry lots of spare parts.
• A satellite phone is useful in the Gulf of Aden: you cannot use your radio to contact UKMTO. If there is an issue with a vessel approaching you, call UKMTO and they can send a plane to fly overhead.
• Most insurance companies will not cover sailing in the Red Sea. Start talking to alternative insurers at an early stage.

noonsite.com has additional advice from Wade Alarie , who runs the private Red Sea Facebook Group and transited the Red Sea this January. It includes carrying substantial fuel.

“You must be able to motor at least 1,200 miles,” says Alarie. “Every year several unprepared sailors run out of fuel, food, and money. Some end up begging for diesel from the Coalition Forces while sailing slowly in the High Risk Area (HRA). This ends up being a distraction to the hard working Coalition Forces, one that Somali pirates may use to their advantage.”

How to sail across the Indian Ocean

We chose to sail Anna Caroline across the Indian Ocean for two reasons. First, we were not sure that we wanted to tackle the headwinds and potential danger of the Red Sea. But more importantly we wanted to visit the wonderful islands in the northern Indian Ocean and then sail around the Cape of Good Hope. As part of our itinerary we have already sailed around two of the three big Capes, so this third one was still on our wishlist.

Choosing to cross the Indian Ocean means adding a year to your circumnavigation. To avoid running into cyclones, you need to leave Thailand in January, make a stop in Sri Lanka and arrive in the Maldives in March. You then have over six months to spend in the Maldives, Chagos, Seychelles, Mauritius or La Réunion until the southern summer starts and you can round the Cape of Good Hope, so it is a relaxed schedule.

The other option is to stay longer in Thailand or Malaysia and cross in September straight to Madagascar. Either way, cruising to Europe via South Africa will take around 18 months.

The advantages of crossing the Indian Ocean include having the time to pick relatively benign weather, and the ability to visit some groups of islands that are still not overrun by cruising yachts. You might also choose to make some interesting land trips ashore in Africa.

The authors’ yacht Anna Caroline in Thailand

The disadvantages are mainly the time that is involved in getting back to Europe, and the extra wear and tear on the yacht caused by sailing many miles (for us on Anna Caroline it will be around 16,500 miles from Phuket to the Netherlands) in the Indian and Atlantic Oceans.

If you take this option, there are two major cost factors. First there is the additional cost of living, maintenance and insurance. Given the earlier assumption of £2,500 per month, this amounts to £45,000 for 18 months. On top of that, there is the cost of hiring agents, clearance and cruising permits.

Chagos and the Maldives are expensive with an average cost of between US$1,000-1,500 each. For other countries, the cost is lower, often much lower, but you should allow another £2,000. Depending on your insurance company, you may also see an increase in premium or deductibles.

Because cruising in the Indian Ocean is still relatively rare, sources to find information are scarcer. The Indian Ocean Cruising Guide  by Rod Heikell is helpful, as are numerous Facebook groups and forums. There are some older cruising guides for specific destinations like the Seychelles and Maldives, but they are very hard to find in hard copy. We found that it is a good idea to start selecting agents at an early stage; a lot of countries require you to have an agent and there are quite large differences in fees.

“For everyone dreaming of crossing the Indian Ocean the way we did, I would recommend that you do a very thorough check of the boat and all your spare parts while you are still in Thailand and close to resources,” Wietze van der Laan advises. “Most boats are at the end of their circumnavigation and the many miles that have been sailed by then have taken their toll.

“Your boat needs to be in mint condition, because it is very hard to get spare parts in most parts of the Indian Ocean. You need to be independent.”

COVID-19 update

The scenarios mentioned are for a ‘normal’ cruising season. The 2020 season has been anything but normal with COVID-19 causing lockdowns and restrictions.

At the time of going to press many countries, including South Africa, required arriving yachts to undergo COVID-19 testing and quarantine. The Maldives and Tanzania are relatively unrestricted, while Madagascan authorities are limiting yacht movements heavily. Social upheaval caused by factors like rising unemployment and the collapse of tourism is also impacting on the safety of destinations in the Indian Ocean.

Red Sea updates

“The coalition forces don’t encourage cruisers in the area but they will tolerate us – particularly if we try to follow their guidance,” says Wade Alarie, moderator of the private Facebook group for Red Sea crossers.

Organisations issuing guidance include the Maritime Security Centre for the Horn of Africa (MSCHOA) and United Kingdom Maritime Trade Operations (UKMTO).

About the author

Dutch couple Janneke Kuysters and Wietze van der Laan are sailing around the world in their Bruce Roberts 44 Anna Caroline , returning home via the Indian Ocean.

First published in the October 2020 issue of Yachting World.

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Sailing controversy: Yachting federation assign another coach to sailor

The complainant, part of the 470 class team, had written to sports authority of india (sai) on thursday, alleging that coach farokh tarapore was "making her uncomfortable". yai submitted its report to sai on thursday..

A day after a woman sailor complained about the "mental pressure" being exerted on her by her coach on a competition-cum-training trip in Germany, the Yachting Association of India (YAI) on Friday asked the concerned coach to not train the sailor for the time being while assigning another coach from the contingent to assist her in the water.

The complainant, part of the 470 class team, had written to Sports Authority of India (SAI) on Thursday, alleging that coach Farokh Tarapore was "making her uncomfortable". YAI submitted its report to SAI on Thursday. According to a YAI official, a top SAI official on Friday asked the federation to “find a middle path” and address the situation with some “adjustments” and “better coordination”. As of now, the entire contingent will continue training in Germany.

“The sailor is not happy with the concerned coach at the moment. So, we thought let’s not pressurize her and let her sail the way she wants. Another coach of another class has been assigned to look after the sailor,” the official said. He added that the same has been conveyed to the coach and sailor on Friday.

Captain Jitendra Dixit, joint secretary general of YAI, confirmed that no one from the contingent will be asked to return from Germany, where the sailors are currently training ahead of a regatta later this month. “As things stand, they are all continuing with the training there. No one is coming back,” he said. “The coach’s program will continue; we won’t disrupt that.”

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Average Cost of Buying & Owning a Yacht in India (with 4 examples)

The number of yacht owners has significantly increased in recent years, particularly in the coastal cities of Mumbai and Goa. This is due to the growing popularity of yachting as a recreational activity among the affluent class in India, as well as the increasing availability of high-quality yachts and yacht services in the country. Yacht prices remain competitive and depend on factors such as the yacht's brand, age, and condition.

The average cost of new yachts is around 2–3 crores (₹20–30 million or $270,000–$405,000) for smaller yachts and can go as high as 1,000 million INR ($135 million) for larger yachts. Ownership costs involve annual maintenance expenses ranging from Rs. 1 lakh to Rs. 5 lakh ($740 to $3,700) per year.

The total annual cost of owning a yacht, inclusive of maintenance, can range from ₹2 lakh to ₹5 lakh or more, depending on the size and type of yacht you choose. Below, you'll see a breakdown of this cost.

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• Operating costs for yachts, including fuel, crew, and other expenses, could be around 10% to 20% of the yacht's value each year.
• Expect to pay around 1% to 2% of the yacht's value annually for insurance coverage.
• Consult with maritime law experts and tax professionals about the legal clearances and tax considerations involved in purchasing a yacht in India.

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Cost of buying a yacht in india, cost of owning a yacht in india, four examples of yachts and their costs in india.

A yacht is a larger boat primarily used for recreational or leisure purposes. Owning a yacht in India allows you to explore the country's vast and beautiful coastline at your leisure. As a yacht owner, you have the freedom and flexibility to plan your own trips and vacations, creating memories with your friends and family.

Here's a table of the costs in USD:

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Sailing yachts : These are powered by sails and offer a more traditional sailing experience. They can be a more eco-friendly option due to their lower fuel consumption, but they may require more skill and knowledge to operate.

Motor yachts : These are powered by engines, making them faster and more straightforward to navigate than sailing yachts. Motor yachts are typically larger and more luxurious, providing various amenities and comfort options for you and your guests.

Catamarans : Catamarans have two parallel hulls, offering more stability and space than other yachts. Due to their design, catamarans provide a smoother ride and are ideal for those who want more space or are prone to seasickness.

Superyachts : These are the epitome of luxury yachting , typically longer than 80 feet and featuring multiple decks, spacious cabins, and state-of-the-art technology. Superyachts are ideal for the wealthiest yacht owners, as they come with a hefty price tag and high maintenance costs.

In this section, we'll explore the operating costs for yachts, including maintenance, docking fees, insurance, fuel, and crew expenses. As a general rule, these could be around 10% to 20% of the yacht's value each year. This percentage can give you a rough idea of ongoing expenses, but keep in mind that every yacht and situation is unique, and actual costs may vary.

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Regular maintenance : The cost of maintenance depends on the size and type of your yacht. The cost can increase over time, especially as your yacht gets older and requires more extensive repairs. Maintenance costs generally include cleaning and painting, engine and mechanical work, electric and electronic system repairs, and plumbing and sewage system maintenance.

Docking fees : These fees can vary based on the location, amenities, and services provided by the marina. To get a better understanding of docking fees for your yacht, research marinas near your desired location and request quotes for docking services. Don't forget to account for any offseason hauling and storage fees if your yacht needs to be taken out of the water during the winter months or while you're not using it.

Insurance costs : Yacht insurance is vital to protecting your investment from various risks, such as accidents, theft, or natural disasters. Insurance premiums are usually determined by factors like the yacht's value, size, age, and intended usage. As a rough estimate, you can expect to pay around 1% to 2% of the yacht's value annually for insurance coverage. However, this percentage could vary based on your specific yacht and insurance provider.

Fuel and crew expenses : Depending on your yacht's size, you might need to hire a professional crew to manage and maintain it. Crew salaries depend on their roles and experience, which can significantly affect your annual yacht expenses. In addition, fuel costs will vary according to the size of your yacht's engine and the distance traveled.

To get a taste of sailing before you buy a yacht, you can make a private reservation. Here's the average price to book a private yacht in Mumbai .

When looking for a yacht, it's essential to take into account the size, features, and costs. Here are four examples of yachts available in India , showcasing a range of sizes and costs.

Small sailing yacht : Perfect for a leisurely sailing experience, a small sailing yacht can cost around ₹2 crore to ₹3 crore (20 to 30 million rupees) depending on its age and condition. These boats are generally less than 50 feet in length and can accommodate up to six people. With lower maintenance costs and fuel consumption, it's an excellent option for beginners and weekend sailors. Here is an example of an average price for a small sailing yacht .

Mid-size luxury yacht : As you move up in size and amenities, a mid-size luxury yacht of around 50 to 60 feet in length can cost anywhere from ₹5 crore to ₹30 crore (50 to 300 million rupees). These vessels are built for comfort and offer improved accommodations, entertainment areas, and more advanced navigation systems.

Large motor yacht : As the size continues to increase, large motor yachts measuring over 70 feet in length can easily exceed ₹70 crore (700 million rupees). These yachts are more luxurious, come with state-of-the-art technology, and can accommodate more guests. With more power, they are perfect for long-range cruising and hosting exclusive events.

Mega yacht : For the ultimate yachting experience, mega yachts are considered the pinnacle of luxury and status. Over 100 feet long, the price tag can reach several hundred crores, based on the level of customization you desire. Mega yachts, as their size suggests, are equipped with advanced technology, luxurious amenities, and plenty of space for entertaining.

New yachts in India

You can expect to spend anywhere from 2 to 30 crores (20 to 300 million rupees) for a new yacht, depending on the size and features of the yacht. Smaller yachts will typically be on the lower end of this range, while larger yachts will be more expensive. Some factors to consider when purchasing a new yacht include the brand, build quality, and additional features.

Used yachts can be more affordable than new ones

These are more affordable, especially if you're willing to compromise on certain features or the age of the yacht. In general, you can expect to spend around 60–70% of the original price on a used yacht. Keep in mind that the condition and maintenance history will play a significant role in determining the price of a used yacht, and it's crucial to carefully inspect any used yacht before making a purchase.

Imported yachts to India

The cost of an imported yacht will depend on factors such as the country of origin, size, and specifications of the yacht. Additionally, you may face additional costs like import duties, taxes, and shipping expenses. It's essential to familiarize yourself with the legal requirements and tax implications of importing a yacht to India before making a decision.

Custom-built yachts for a unique experience

These personalized yachts offer the opportunity to design and create your dream yacht. The cost of a custom-built yacht can vary widely, depending on factors such as the size of the yacht, the materials used, and the complexity of the design. While custom-built yachts can be expensive, they offer unparalleled personalization and luxury for those willing to invest.

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Indian sailor accuses coach of making her 'uncomfortable' during foreign tour

NEW DELHI: Days after a renowned cyclist accused her coach of sexual harassment, a national level female sailor has alleged that a coach made her "uncomfortable" during a foreign exposure trip to Germany.

According to a source, the complainant reached out to the Yachting Federation of India (YAI) several times but when she did not get any response, she sought Sports Authority of India's intervention last night.

SAI has now sought a report from the Federation by the end of the day, asking if the sailor had approached them earlier, and if so why the matter was not taken seriously.

"The SAI has received a complaint from a female sailor that a coach is making her uncomfortable during a foreign exposure tour of Germany.

The sailor claimed that she had earlier approached the federation but after getting no response from them, she knocked on SAI's doors," a SAI source told PTI.

"SAI has sought a report from the federation from the Yachting Federation of India on this serious matter.

"The camp was proposed and organised by the Yachting Association of India and funded by SAI through ACTC, as is the norm. The coach in question has been appointed by the federation and was included in the contingent as per the proposal of the Federation," the source added.

SAI has also reached out to the athlete, who claimed that "mental pressure" was being created by the coach during training.

The sailor did mention any sexual harassment by the coach.

The coach in question is a three-time Olympian and is a coach of the Indian Navy team.

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Ahooptimist, fédération algérienne de voile, federacio andorrana de vela, federaçao angolana de desportos náuticos (faden), antigua yacht club, asociación optimist argentina (aoa), australian international optimist dinghy association(aioda), österreichische optimist dinghy vereinigung, sailing federation of azerbaijan (sfa), bahamas optimist dinghy association, dinghy optimist class belgium (docb), bermuda optimist dinghy association, belize sailing association, belarus sailing federation, optibra - optimist brasil, bahrain maritime sports association, bulgarian sailing federation, canadian optimist dinghy association (coda), cayman islands sailing club, club optimist chile, chinese yachting association, clase optimist de colombia, hrvatsko udruženje klase optimist, cyprus sailing federation, czech optimist dinghy association, optimist class denmark, asociacion de optimist del ecuador (aoe), egyptian yachting & water ski federation, salvador sailing association, asociación española clase internacional optimist, estonian optimist class association, suomen optimistjollalitto - finnish optimist dinghy association, classe optimist france, international optimist class association uk, deutsche optimist-dinghy vereinigung e.v. (opticlass ger), hellenic sailing federation, asociación nacional de navegación a vela de guatemala (asovela), hong kong optimist dinghy association, hungarian sailing federation - optimist association, national optimist association of india (noai), iran rowing & sailing federation (irsf), international optimist dinghy association of ireland (iodai), iraqi sailing and water sports federation (i.s.f), israel optimist class association, virgin island optimist dinghy association (vioda), associazione italiana classe optimist (aico), royal british virgin islands yacht club, japan optimist dinghy association, kazakhstan sailing federation, korean optimist dinghy association, kuwait sea sport club, latvian optimist class association (loka), libyan sailing federation, saint lucia sailing association, lithuanian optimist dinghy association (loda), as optimist luxembourg, associacao de vela de macau (avm), fédération royale marocaine de yachting à voile, malaysia sailing association, asociación mexicana de veleros clase optimist (amvco), north macedonian sailing federation, malta optimist dinghy association (moda), montenegro sailing federation, yacht club de monaco, federação moçambicana de vela e canoagem, mauritius yachting association, optimist dinghy association of myanmar (odam), optimist club nederland, norsk optimistjolleklubb (nok), nz international optimist dinghy association (nzioda), oman maritime sports committee, pakistan youth sailing association, optimist sailing panama (osp), federación paraguaya de vela (fepave), asociación peruana de optimist, phillipines sailing association, polskie stowarzyszenie klasy optimist, associação portuguêsa da classe internacional optimist (apcio), puerto rico optimist association (proa), qatar sailing & rowing federation, romanian yachting federation (r.o.d.a), optimist sailing south africa, russian optimist dinghy association, seychelles yachting association, singapore sailing federation, slovenian sailing federation, serbian sailing federation, yachting association of sri lanka, sudan sailing federation, swiss optimist class association, slovak optimist association, swedish optimist dinghy association (sof), tanzania optimist dinghy association (toda), turks and caicos, provo sailing academy, thailand optimist dinghy academy (thoda), tjk sailing, chinese taipei sailing association, trinidad & tobago sailing association (ttsa), fédération tunisienne de voile, turkish sailing federation, uae sailing & rowing federation, ukrainian association of the optimist class, asociación uruguaya de optimist (audo), united states optimist dinghy association (usoda), federación venezolana de vela, st vincent and the grenadines sailing association.

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• Affiliated State Associations

It is the policy of Yachting Association of India to support and encourage development of State Yachting Associations in the country. In order to facilitate communication between the parties and to assist in the transfer of useful and important information, State Yachting Associations are encouraged to become members of Yachting Association of India.

The underlisted State Associations and organisations have been granted "provisional" affiliation to the Yachting Association of India, in accordance with the current policy.

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