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Rolex Yacht-Master & Yacht-Master II: The Comprehensive Guide to the King of Sailing Watches

The Rolex Yacht-Master occupies a prominent but, for many, difficult-to-define area within the company’s overall portfolio. It’s regarded as a popular dress watch but is firmly positioned within the “Professional” collection. It looks a lot like a Submariner but isn’t really a dive watch, so it’s really not like a Submariner at all. It’s designed as a men’s watch but has become a canvas for some very feminine executions. And unlike other Rolex models that offer an original “I” and a second-generation “II” version, like the GMT-Master and Explorer, the Yacht-Master I and II are scarcely related in their design or functions at all. And yet, the Yacht-Master remains a top-tier timepiece both for Rolex and its legions of fans, and in its relatively short span on the market has welcomed a number of innovative materials and technologies into the Rolex fold. Read on to discover more about the Rolex Yacht-Master (in all its various versions) and what makes the model unique among its Oyster Perpetual brethren.

1967 - 1969 - The Prototype: Cosmograph Yacht-Master

Rolex Cosmograph Yacht-Master, circa 1967 (photo: Rolex Magazine.com )

While the Yacht-Master as we know it today traces its genesis only to 1992, the name appeared on a Rolex dial several decades before — on a watch that resembled more an evolution of the Daytona than of the Submariner — indicating that a sailing-themed watch was something that Rolex had been tinkering with as an organization for some time. In 1967, shortly after the debut of the Cosmograph (soon to be the Cosmograph Daytona) in 1963, Rolex developed a chronograph wristwatch prototype, with a three-register “reverse panda” dial and a tachymeter scale that it dubbed the “Cosmograph Yacht-Master” ( Reference 6239/6242); at 39.5mm, it was larger than the core Daytona model, which at the time was a fairly modest 36mm. Also setting it apart from all of its siblings in that collection is the odd addition of a multicolored scale at the bottom left of the 3 o’clock subdial, presumably to be used in concert with the chronograph function for counting down to the start of a yachting regatta. Only three examples of this model, which appears to have never been commercially released, are known to exist, one of them once owned by guitar legend and Rolex super-collector Eric Clapton. 

1992 - Enter the “Luxury Submariner”

The first Rolex Yacht-Master in yellow gold (Ref.16628, circa 1992)

The Rolex braintrust never fully abandoned the idea of a nautically inspired boating watch to join the diving-tool Submariner (and eventually its more robust successor, the Sea-Dweller), and the Crown finally pulled the trigger on it in 1992. The Ref. 16628 model, which launched the modern Yacht-Master collection, was intended as a more luxurious version of the Submariner, at the time still regarded as more of an upscale tool watch than a dressy sport watch appropriate to be worn on the deck of a yacht. Accordingly, it looks a lot like the Submariner in its primary aesthetic and technical details. Its dial featured the same Mercedes handset; the same eclectic assortment of circles, rectangles, and triangles at the hour markers; and the same Cyclops lens-enhanced 3 o’clock date window that the Submariner acquired in 1969, along with a very similar rotating bezel with a 60-minute scale. 

Rolex Yacht-Master Ref. 16628 with mother-of-pearl dial (photo: Analog:Shift )

The main differences are in the execution. For several years at that point, the case of the Submariner had been boasting a water resistance rating of 300 meters (still a standard for the model today), while the Yacht-Master’s case came in at a respectable but much more pedestrian 100 meters — again, more suited for being worn above the water than under it. While the case diameter of the newcomer was the same — 40mm — it was, along with its Oyster bracelet, made of 18k yellow gold, while the vast majority of Submariners were still made of 904L “Oystersteel.” The aforementioned bezel offers the most distinguishing differences: it rotates in both directions rather than one, another indication that the watch’s primary role was not to time dives (in which case, a unidirectional bezel that tracked how long the wearer had been underwater, and couldn’t be inadvertently moved for an inaccurate reading, was the safest option) but to be used for a more versatile array of calculations including counting down to the start of a yacht race. The more outwardly notable difference from its diving predecessor was the bezel’s 60-minute scale, which was relief-engraved directly onto the precious metal surface rather than etched into an insert made of aluminum, bakelite, or (as it is nowadays) ceramic. The overall effect was more streamlined and, objectively, more “luxury” than “tool” or “sport.” The movement inside was the same as the one the Submariner used at the time — Rolex’s “Perpetual” (i.e., automatic) Caliber 3135. 

As you might surmise from the evidence at hand here, the Yacht-Master’s remarkable resemblance to the Submariner is the result of neither coincidence nor design laziness. As watch companies are apt to do occasionally, Rolex had the notion at one point, probably during the 1980s, to upgrade and revamp the look of the Submariner — which, it’s worth remembering, had not really changed much since its debut in 1953. According to industry lore, propagated by some who were involved at the time, one of those experiments yielded a watch that Rolex executives were very bullish about — but not bullish enough to actually pull the plug on the “old” Submariner design and replace it with the newer, more luxurious one, hence the revival of the 1960s “Yacht-Master” name and the launch of what would be — until the debut of the Sky-Dweller in 2012 — Rolex’s newest product family.

1994 - 2005: Growing the Fleet: Midsize, Ladies, and Two-Tone Editions

In 1994, recognizing the potential unisex appeal of its first new timepiece collection since the Daytona, Rolex followed up the original Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master with a 35mm “Midsize” version (Ref. 68628) and an understatedly feminine 29mm “Lady Yacht-Master” model (Ref. 69628) Both were in yellow-gold, and both were powered by Rolex’s self-winding Caliber 2135, with a 42-hour power reserve. It was the first time in Rolex’s history that a model from its “Professional” series, which includes traditionally male-targeted models like the Submariner, GMT-Master, and Daytona, was offered in a smaller case size than that of the original. Even in the core 40mm sizes, the Yacht-Master template established in 1992 proved to be ideal for more decorative treatments; over the years, Rolex has released versions of the Yacht-Master 40 with ruby, sapphire, and diamond-set hour markers, mother-of-pearl dials, and even fully paved diamond-set dials.

In what would become something of a tradition for the series going forward, Rolex unveiled the first Yacht-Master with a bi-material construction in 1999. The Ref. 16622 boasted a 40mm case that combines stainless steel (for the case middle, caseback, and Oyster bracelet) and 950 platinum (for the relief-engraved bezel and the dial) in a somewhat monochromatic hybrid that the company refers to as “Rolesium.” Another bi-metal Yacht-Master iteration, one more striking in the tonal contrasts of its materials, arrived in 2005, the first “Rolesor” model, with Oystersteel and yellow gold used for the case and bracelet. That watch, Ref. 16623, was available in a variety of dial colors, including champagne, blue, and brown, and even a mother-of-pearl version.

Rolex Yacht-Master Ref.  16623 "Rolesium"

2007: Regatta Revolution: The First Yacht-Master II

In 2007, Rolex introduced the next generation of the Yacht-Master, and it was not only a significant departure from its predecessor; it was also, in a way, a return to the “Cosmograph” functionality of the 1960s prototypes. In actuality, the Yacht-Master II, first issued in a 44mm case in yellow gold (Ref. 116688) or white gold (Ref. 116689), is more appropriately described as a separate family of watches than as a branch of the main Yacht-Master series. For one thing, the movement that debuted inside the watch, Caliber 4160, was entirely new. Technically speaking, it’s a descendant of the Caliber 4130 found in Daytona models, and Rolex’s first in-house caliber to incorporate a built-in regatta countdown feature. For another, place a Yacht-Master II next to a “regular” Yacht-Master and they look, really, nothing alike. The bidirectional bezel of the Yacht-Master II is emblazoned not with the diving-inspired 60-minute scale of its smaller sibling but a countdown scale, with Arabic numerals starting with “10” and concluding at “0” spanning a semicircular arc from approximately the 8 o’clock to the 4 o’clock positions. A similar descending 10-to-0 scale is featured on the dial, positioned inside the border of the small rectangular hour markers and above the running seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. The bezel insert, made of Cerachrom, Rolex’s patented ceramic alloy, is also much more Submariner-like than Yacht-Master-like.

The first Rolex Yacht-Master II, circa 2007

The chronometer-certified movement offered not only a column-wheel driven chronograph function but an exclusive regatta countdown device, developed in-house by Rolex, that can be pre-set for intervals up to 10 minutes and whose mechanical “memory” allows it to be re-set to a previously used countdown duration. Once the watch’s countdown function is engaged, it can even be adjusted on the fly to synchronize with the precise, “official” countdown that initiates the crucial starting sequence of every regatta. While it was undeniably luxurious in its trappings — available in several precious metal options, as well as, eventually, in steel — the message delivered by the Yacht-Master II was clear: this was a watch for actual boat skippers, not just plutocrat boat owners.

Despite the niche appeal of the Yacht-Master II’s sailing-specific complication — or, perhaps because this appeal never became more widespread among Rolex fans in general — the Yacht-Master II was discontinued in 2024. Its most recent upgrades were fairly subtle: as of the all-steel Ref. 11680 introduced in 2013, the movement inside shifted to Caliber 4161, which (according to Rolex) improved upon the 4160’s reliability and the user-friendliness of its pushers.

2015: Everose Meets Oysterflex

Even before the decision to retire the Yacht-Master II from the lineup, throughout  the past decade it has been the original, core Yacht-Master model, the one without the regatta timer, that has received the most attention from the brand, with more firsts for the model arriving in 2015. The Ref. 116655, launched at that year’s Baselworld watch fair, was the first Yacht-Master with a case made from Rolex’s proprietary rose-gold alloy called Everose gold, and the first to contain a movement meeting Rolex’s “Superlative Chronometer” standard that was rolled out the same year. Its bezel was executed in black Cerachrom, albeit with the same relief-style scale as its metal predecessors rather than the etched scale of the Submariner. What many remember best is that it was also the first watch to be mounted on Rolex’s innovative Oysterflex bracelet — which on its exterior resembles a fairly traditional black rubber strap but on its interior is equipped with a patented “longitudinal cushion” system, made up of nickel-titanium blades inside an elastomer coating. The patented design gives an Oysterflex the suppleness and comfort of a strap while still providing the robustness and stability of a bracelet, and this style of wristlet has been a mainstay within Rolex’s “Professional” series of watches ever since, though still most closely associated with the Yacht-Master. Somewhat more quietly in that same year of big Yacht-Master moves, Rolex discontinued the 35mm Midsize and 29mm Ladies models, replacing them with a new series of arguably more “unisex” 37mm Yacht-Masters; today, this represents the smallest option within the collection.

2019: A Bigger Boat with a Better Engine: Introducing the Yacht-Master 42

The core Yacht-Master collection welcomed a new size and a new movement in 2019. For the first time since the debut of the 40mm original, the case size was increased, to 42mm, in the white-gold-cased Ref. 226659. It was, somewhat surprisingly for a watch that had undergone so many luxurious iterations in its history, the first time that particular precious metal had been employed for a Yacht-Master case. The watch’s Cerachrom bezel insert was in matte-black, to match the dial, and featured the same relief-raised scale and numerals as its 40mm siblings. The Yacht-Master 42 also marked the first use of the “Superlative Chronometer” Caliber 3235 in the Yacht-Master family.

Rolex Caliber 3235

In production since 2015, Caliber 3235 is one of Rolex’s most optimized in-house calibers and has been gradually replacing the venerable 3135 in many of the brand’s three-hand-date models, from the basic Datejust to the Submariner, Sea-Dweller, and Yacht-Master. The movement’s host of talking points includes the patented “Chronergy” escapement, made of magnetism-resistant nickel phosphorus that renders the movement both highly energy efficient and extremely durable; the Rolex-exclusive blued Parachrom hairspring that gives the oscillator a greater level of resistance to magnetism and shocks; and the lengthy 72-hour power reserve and industry-leading “Superlative Chronometer” accuracy to +/- 2 seconds per day. 

2023: Sailing to the Future in Titanium

Rolex is famously of the “slow and steady wins the race” philosophy when it comes to adopting new materials and buying into industry trends in general. The brand waited until 2022 to make its first watch case in titanium (specifically grade 5 titanium, which Rolex — of course — calls by its own in-house moniker of RLX Titanium) — and that watch, the 50mm, 36,000-meter water resistant Deepsea Challenge, was anything but an everyday timepiece. One year later, it was a Yacht-Master, in the recently established 42mm case size, that ushered RLX titanium into more wearable territory. RLX titanium is a strong, corrosion-resistant and very lightweight alloy, with a technical satin finish lending it a sleek, subtly grainy texture. The watch’s case is milled from a single block of the material and is enhanced with shiny polished facets that help to frame and elegantly define its broader satin-finished surfaces. The black dial — Rolex calls it “intense black” and who am I to disagree? — has its own grained texture, and the titanium bracelet is fitted with ceramic inserts and equipped with the brand’s Easylink extension system for maximum wearing comfort. Inside beats the reliable and increasingly ubiquitous Rolex Superlative Chronometer Caliber 3235.

In a way, the latest model finally brings the Yacht-Master from its “luxury Submariner” origins to what many feel is its proper tool-watch identity. It will be intriguing to see if future versions of the Yacht-Master — now that the original model stands alone, without its chronograph-countdown sibling, as the Rolex watch for sailors and other seaborne sojourners — venture more into the placid waves of dress-watch elegance or the churning whitewater of regatta-race utility. Knowing Rolex, it’s likely to be the most crowd-pleasing combination of both. 

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Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Ultimate Buying Guide

In the realm of luxury timepieces, the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 stands as a paragon of elegance fused with practicality. Debuted in the 1990s, this model immediately set a new benchmark in the world of high-end watches. Enclosed in a robust 40mm Oyster case, the Yacht-Master 40 is not just a watch, but a statement of sophistication and versatility. Available in an array of materials – luxurious yellow gold and Everose gold, the classic combination of steel and gold, or sleek steel and platinum. Each variant presents its own allure that caters to the diverse tastes of luxury watch aficionados.

This timepiece surpasses mere functionality. It’s a symbol of a lifestyle, appealing to those who appreciate fine craftsmanship and timeless design. Its sporty yet elegant demeanor makes it equally fitting for a regatta or a high-profile business meeting.

As we explore the rich history and the various models of the Yacht-Master 40, we invite connoisseurs and aspiring collectors alike to explore what makes this Rolex creation not just a watch, but a legacy wrapped around the wrist.

A Brief History of the Rolex Yacht-Master 40

The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 , since its inception in 1992, has charted a course marking key milestones that exemplify Rolex’s commitment to excellence and innovation. The journey began with the release of reference 16628, a model in full gold with a pristine white dial, instantly capturing the essence of luxury sports watch design.

By 1994, Rolex expanded the horizon of the Yacht-Master 40 with a new ref 16628, this time featuring a captivating blue sunray dial. This addition not only diversified the collection but also reinforced the Yacht-Master’s position as a symbol of sophistication and nautical spirit.

The end of the decade, in 1999, saw Rolex introduce the Rolesium model, an ingenious blend of steel and platinum. This model offered a fresh perspective within the luxury watch market with a new blend of materials.

The 2000s were marked by further diversification, with Rolex unveiling two-tone metal versions and introducing mother of pearl dials, adding a new layer of elegance to the collection.

In a significant leap forward, 2012 brought with it a series of enhancements: the introduction of rhodium and blue cobalt dials added depth to the Rolesium model’s monochrome style, while the upgrade to the Easylink extension system and the transition to blue Chromalight lume signaled Rolex’s focus on both aesthetics and functionality.

The year 2015 was a hallmark in the Yacht-Master’s history with the launch of the 116655 model – Rolex’s first foray into crafting a watch entirely from Everose gold and debuting the Oysterflex bracelet, setting a new standard in the luxury watch industry.

In 2016, the introduction of the steel and Everose Yacht-Master 40 ref 116621, and in 2019, the unveiling of new models equipped with the Caliber 3235 automatic movement, underscored Rolex’s unceasing pursuit of horological excellence.

Today, the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 remains a key part of Rolex’s portfolio as the choice watch of individuals with a taste for luxury and passion for the open seas.

<> Most Popular Models of the Rolex Yachtmaster 40

The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 is available in a wide range of metal configurations. Here are the most popular references from the collection.

Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Steel Yellow Gold Slate Dial 16623

The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Steel Yellow Gold Slate Dial 16623, introduced in 2005, represents a unique blend of Rolex’s commitment to luxury and sportiness. This model is particularly notable for its two-tone Rolesor design as it skillfully combines 904L stainless steel with 18-karat yellow gold. This combination demonstrates a more sports-oriented rendition of Rolex’s classic two-tone style, appealing to enthusiasts who favor the sport watch aesthetic in a more lifestyle-oriented context.

One of the distinct features of the 16623 model is its bidirectional rotating bezel, crafted entirely from 18-karat yellow gold. This choice sets the Yacht-Master 16623 apart from other similar models, especially considering the stainless steel crown, which differs from the usual Rolex design where the crown often mirrors the gold elements.

The dial options, including white, silver, champagne, blue, brown, and mother of pearl, provide a spectrum of styles ranging from understated elegance to more striking appearances. The slate dial, pictured here, offers a sleek look that balances the gold construction of the timepiece.

At the heart of this model is the Rolex Caliber 3135 movement, celebrated for its reliability, precision, and a 48-hour power reserve. This movement is a testament to Rolex’s engineering prowess, offering longevity and consistent performance. The Yacht-Master 16623, with its blend of robust functionality and luxurious design, is a prime example of Rolex’s ability to create watches that are both visually striking and functionally sound, suitable for both nautical adventures and everyday elegance.

<> <>

Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Steel Platinum Rhodium Dial 116622

The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Steel Platinum Rhodium Dial, Reference 116622, introduced in 2016, is the embodiment of Rolex’s pursuit of excellence in luxury watchmaking. This model is notable for its unique combination of materials and design elements, making it a standout in the Yacht-Master series.

The watch’s 40mm Oyster case and sporty Oyster bracelet are constructed using stainless steel, while its bezel is crafted from 950 platinum. This blend of rugged stainless steel and ultra-precious platinum, known as Rolesium, gives the watch a distinctive monochromatic look but with contrasting textures. The high-polished raised numerals on the bezel set against a sandblasted background, combined with polished center links on the bracelet flanked by brushed-finish outer links, create a visually appealing effect.

The dial of the watch is available in dark rhodium, accented with a turquoise seconds hand and matching YACHT-MASTER text. The dial ensures excellent legibility in low light conditions, thanks to ample lume, and features the signature date window at 3 o’clock, complete with a Cyclops magnification lens on the sapphire crystal.

At the core of this model is the Caliber 3135 movement, a mainstay of Rolex since 1988, known for its reliability and precision. The movement offers a 48-hour power reserve and is backed by the Superlative Chronometer standard. The movement also includes a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring for improved resistance to magnetic fields and shocks.

Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Steel Everose Gold Chocolate Dial 116621

The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Steel Everose Gold Chocolate Dial 116621, unveiled in 2016, represents an elegant fusion of luxury and maritime spirit. This model is part of Rolex’s ongoing evolution of the Yacht-Master series, which has consistently introduced new materials and color schemes to diversify its appeal.

The 116621 stands out with its unique ‘Rolesor’ combination, melding stainless steel with Rolex’s exclusive Everose Gold, a proprietary rose gold alloy. This blend lends the watch a distinctive, sophisticated look, further enhanced by its dark brown ‘chocolate’ dial. The use of rose gold and brown is a common theme for Rolex, offering warmth and luxury appeal to the timepiece.

This model maintains the classic Yacht-Master design, including a 40mm case with elegantly rounded lugs and a large, easy-to-read dial. The bezel is crafted from a solid block of Everose gold, featuring large, raised numerals set against a sand-blasted background, which provides a striking contrast and adds to the watch’s elegance.

The Rolex Yacht-Master 116621 is powered by the Calibre 3135 movement, known for its precision and durability. This automatic movement ensures reliable timekeeping and includes the blue Parachrom hairspring for better resistance to magnetic fields and impacts. The watch also benefits from Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer certification, guaranteeing exceptional accuracy.

Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Gold Oysterflex Strap 116655

The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Ref. 116655, introduced in 2015, marked a significant evolution in Rolex’s Yacht-Master series. This model is particularly notable for being the first Yacht-Master model in solid Everose gold, and the first in the Yacht-Master range to feature the innovative Oysterflex bracelet, Rolex’s unique take on the rubber strap, a departure from their traditional metal bracelets.

The 116655 is also well known for replacing the precious metal bezel with Cerachrom, Rolex’s term for ceramic, used here in matte black to complement the sleek Oysterflex strap. This design choice added a new aesthetic dimension to the Yacht-Master line, offering a sportier and more contemporary look.

The case of the Yacht-Master 116655 is crafted from 18k Everose gold, Rolex’s own blend of gold and copper with a hint of platinum, adding durability and color longevity to the gold’s hue. This combination of Everose gold with the matte black elements of the dial and bezel creates a striking contrast, enhancing the watch’s luxurious yet sporty appeal.

At its core, the watch houses the Caliber 3135 movement, a mainstay of Rolex’s engineering excellence. Known for its reliability and precision, the Caliber 3135 offers a 48-hour power reserve and features a Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring, enhancing the watch’s resistance to magnetic fields and shocks.

Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Gold Pave Diamond Dial 116655

The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Gold with Pave Diamond Dial, model 116655, introduced in 2018, stands as a luxurious and distinctive addition to the Rolex Yacht-Master collection.

Just like the previous edition, the Everose gold is used in the Oyster case, which measures 40 mm in diameter and is paired with a bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel with a matte black Cerachrom insert.

The defining feature of this model is its diamond-paved dial, radiating luxury and exclusivity. The dial, complemented by the Chromalight display, enhances readability and adds to the watch’s allure. The Oysterflex bracelet, a fusion of flexible metal blades overmolded with high-performance elastomer, offers comfort, durability, and an elegant look.

Inside, the watch is powered by the self-winding Calibre 3135 movement by Rolex, known for its precision and reliability. The movement boasts features like a Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring which offers greater resistance to shocks and temperature changes.

<> Final Thoughts

Each model of Yacht-Master 40 , from the earliest introductions to the latest innovations, showcases Rolex’s dedication to precision, elegance, and durability. These timepieces are not just mere accessories; they are statements of style and sophistication, reflecting the spirit of nautical adventure melded with luxurious living.

For enthusiasts and collectors looking to dive deeper into the world of Rolex Yacht-Master 40, SwissWatchExpo offers a diverse range of these models. Whether it’s the allure of the diamond-paved dials, the robustness of the Oyster case, or the precision of Rolex’s in-house movements, the Yacht-Master 40 series promises to elevate both your maritime adventures and everyday elegance with unmatched grace and performance.

Explore our selection of Rolex Yacht-Master 40 models, along with thousands of watches from the world’s best brands, at SwissWatchExpo.com .

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There is big news, and there is Rolex big news, and in some ways, ne'er the twain shall meet. At Baselworld this year, Rolex debuted a first for the company: the very first, ever, Rolex delivered on a rubber strap. Now, for most companies this would have little effect on watch enthusiasts other than to evoke (very) tepid interest at best, and boredom at worst – but this is not an ordinary rubber strap, this is an official, designed-and-tested-and-thoroughly-obsessed-over-by-Rolex rubber strap. And thereby hangs a tale.

The Yachtmaster, as we have mentioned in some of our previous coverage , occupies a somewhat particular place in Rolex’s lineup of sports watches; it shares water-resistance and a turning bezel with the Submariner (the latter is water resistant to 300 m while the Yachtmaster standard model is water resistant to 100 m). It is certainly not a tool watch; the Yachtmaster is offered in either platinum and steel, or gold and steel (that’s Rolesium and Rolesor, lest we forget) and is either quietly or unequivocally luxurious depending on what size and metal you go for (Rolex makes the Yachtmaster in both 35 mm and 40 mm sizes). 

The Yachtmaster’s history goes back to the first introduction of the watch in 1992, although the name, interestingly enough, appears on the dial of a prototype Yachtmaster Chronograph from the late 1960s (a watch so legendary I am actually forced to use the word; one of three known is in the collection of Mr. John Goldberger; we covered it – and a host of other remarkable ultra-rare watches from his collection – in a very memorable episode of Talking Watches ).

The term “Yachtmaster” is also, incidentally, used for a certificate of competency in yachting which is issued by the Royal Yachting Association, although we’re unaware of any specific association between the RYA and the Yachtmaster watch.

Now, this newest version of the Yachtmaster does take a few pages from the existing Yachtmaster playbook: 100-meter water resistance, a bidirectional turning bezel, and a dial and hands that echo the Submariner. There are also a couple of features that may make vintage Sub enthusiasts wonder if Rolex mightn’t have an exceedingly subtle sense of humor; the gilt coronet and “Rolex,” and the red lettering, both features which according to HODINKEE founder Ben Clymer would have, had they appeared on a Rolex dive watch, made it instantly the single most popular watch in the modern Rolex inventory. The case is rose gold – Rolex famously makes their own, called Everose, in their own foundry, with a bit of platinum mixed in to prevent discoloration – and the bezel, rather than being some other precious metal (as is the case in the “standard” Yachtmasters) is in black Cerachrom – a very technical-looking matte black that contrasts sharply with the gold case. Somehow, between the rose gold, the Cerachrom bezel, and the new Oysterflex bracelet this manages to be the most luxurious and at the same time most technical Yachtmaster yet (leaving aside the Yachtmaster II, which we recently reviewed right here , but that is a watch that marches to the beat of a different drummer entirely).

The two different versions of the Everose Yachtmaster (40 mm and 37 mm) sport different movements; the larger uses the caliber 3135 and the smaller, the newer 2236, which sports the “Syloxi” silicon balance spring (first used by Rolex in 2014).

The Oysterflex bracelet is, in a nutshell, quite a piece of work. One of the most endearing traits of Rolex as a company is that it tends to demonstrate what we can only describe as a laudable degree of corporate obsessive-compulsive disorder when it comes to research and development, and it does so, often, without making any sort of fanfare about it at all. In this case we do know a little bit about the Oysterflex, however – it is basically designed to have the hypoallergenic and comfort properties of a rubber strap and the durability and shape-retention properties of a bracelet. 

At the core of the Oysterflex bracelet are metal inserts made of titanium and nickel, which are used to affix the bracelet to the clasp and watch case; over those is a sheathing of “high-performance black elastomer.” “Elastomer” is a portmanteau word, formed from “elastic” and “polymer” and is a general term for natural and synthetic rubbers. In addition to the materials complexity of the Oysterflex bracelet, it is also shaped in a rather unusual fashion – there are ridges molded into the the wristward face of the bracelet, which are intended to allow the bracelet when worn to better approximate the natural curvature of the wrist.

They might look a bit odd but in practice, the design works out quite wonderfully; this is easily the most downright comfortable and organic-feeling rubber strap I have ever worn, and like the entire watch manages to be both extremely technical in feel, and very luxurious at the same time; I doubt whether any company has ever taken so much trouble over the design of a strap (for all that Rolex prefers the term “bracelet” in describing the Oysterflex, habit dies hard and you’ll probably find yourself calling it a strap, just as we did). On the wrist, the two stabilizing ridges do exactly what they are supposed to: keep the watch from shifting, as heavier watches on rubber straps are wont to do, without requiring you to have the strap uncomfortably tight. The Everose Oysterlock clasp does a superb job mechanically and also looks fabulous into the bargain; the quality of finish on the clasp and case may not seem terribly elaborate at first, but it is as technically flawless as anything I have ever seen at any price, on any watch.

What we have here, in other words, is a very Rolex interpretation of luxury. Yes, this is a gold watch, and a gold Rolex, and wearing a gold Rolex always carries with it, shall we say, certain semiotic complexities. However there is also another side to the watch, and to the Rolex approach to luxury in general: the taking of such pains to produce technical perfection that technical perfection becomes a luxury in itself.

The Everose Rolex Yachtmaster, in Rolex Everose, with Everose Oysterclasp and Oysterflex bracelet, as shown, $22,000 in 37 mm, and $24,950 in 40 mm. For more info, check out Rolex.com.

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Rolex Yacht-Master 116655 Ultimate Buying Guide

Rolex’s Yacht-Master series emerged in the early nineties, touted as a nautically-themed luxury lifestyle offering against the all-out professional tools of the brand’s dive trio.

Although quite clearly cut from the same mold as the Submariner (and there were even rumors it was originally dreamt up back in the eighties as a possible replacement for the legendary Sub), it has always set itself apart with its softer, more graceful lines and choice of materials. The closest you’ll find to the utility of steel here is when it’s being gentrified by the presence of Rolex’s own 18K gold in their Rolesor models or their platinum in the Rolesium versions – a combination that made its debut with the first wave of these Rolex Yachtmaster watches for sale .

Precious metals don’t come cheap, and the YM has consequently not had the same universal mass appeal as others in the Oyster Professional range. It has always purposely avoided going too sporty, aiming the model at a more targeted audience – those who, for example, may own luxury yachts.

Let’s take a look at one of Rolex’s most interesting and beautifully balanced masterpieces, the Yacht-Master in Everose.

What You Need to Know About the Everose Yacht-Master 40 Ref. 116655

Yacht-Master 116655 Key Features

Case: 40mm Material: Everose – 18k Rose Gold Bezel: Bi-Directional, Cerachrom Movement: Automatic cal. 3135 Functions: Date Dial: Black w/ Chromalight Bracelet: Oysterflex Water Resistance: 100 Meters/330 feet

Yacht-Master 116655: One of A Kind

In 2015, a new Yachtmaster with many surprises up its sleeve made its grand entrance. The Yacht-Master reference 116655 brought with it several firsts, not just for the Yacht-Master range, but for Rolex itself.  It was the first Rolex for sale to feature the innovative Oysterflex bracelet, the brand’s take on the rubber strap.  It was also the first Yacht-Master to ditch the precious metal bezel for Cerachrom, Rolex’s term for ceramic.  Of course, the bezel is produced in matte black to match the sleek Oysterflex strap.

The Rolex Yacht-Master Rose Gold 40mm

While their bezels have always featured embossed numerals, as opposed to the engraved ones favored by the rest of the brand’s catalog, the contrast between the high polish of the three-dimensional markings against that gloriously muted, sandblasted ceramic gives an altogether more dramatic effect. This design is echoed on the black dial, replacing what is typically a glossy element on other similarly colored Rolex watches for a matte hue to match the bezel and bracelet.

Juxtaposing against the high-polish and elegantly curved 18k Everose case, Rolex’s own blend of gold and copper with a dash of platinum to seal it all in, it underlines the ref. 116655’s status as the best of both worlds. Dressy enough for the yacht club; sporty enough for the yacht race.

The Oysterflex Bracelet

At the core of the Oysterflex is a blade forged from an alloy of titanium and nickel, molded in a high-performance, hypoallergenic elastomer. It means, not only is the bracelet exceptionally resistant to environmental rigors, but it’s also free to form itself to the shape of the wearer’s wrist while retaining all the strength of any of the brand’s metal bands.

It is an extremely comfortable bracelet, made even more so by the addition of a pair of ‘fins’ underneath that both cushion and support the watch while also providing airflow to cool the wrist on warm days. The bracelet is secured by the same Oysterlock clasp as you’ll find on most Rolex sports models and comes with the 5mm Easylink extension system for a spot of fine-tuning.

The only drawback compared to, say, the traditional Oyster bracelet is obviously in making larger adjustments. There are no links to add or remove, and, unlike other rubber straps, cutting it to size isn’t an option, thanks to the metal core. Rolex offers a choice of bracelet size at the time of purchase, but it does mean you won’t be able to lend your watch to anyone with significantly bigger or smaller wrists than you. Oh well!

The Calibre 3135 Perpetual Movement

Inside the 40mm ref. 116655 is the battle-hardened and utterly reliable Cal. 3135, which remained Rolex’s main engine from 1988 until just recently when it was replaced by its successor – calibre 3235. Performing way beyond the standards set down by the COSC, it’s accurate to within +2/-2 seconds a day.  Cal. 3135 also boasts a Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring and a convenient 48-hour power reserve.  Even if you set your Rolex Yachtmaster down and don’t pick it up until a day or so later, it will continue to read true.

The Next Generation of Yacht Masters: The Rolex 116655 vs. 126655

In 2019, a new collection of regatta timers came to market, replacing the first 6-digit 1166XX generation.  The beloved cal. 3135 retired from the Yacht-Master collection altogether, making way for the new and improved calibre 3235 with a more efficient skeletonized Chronergy escapement and, thus, a longer 70-hour power reserve.  The Everose and Oysterflex Yacht-Master survived the transition, housing the improved movement within the current ref. 126655.  It features a similar design set as ref. 116655, including a 40mm case and the same stunning matte black ceramic bezel.  Also joining the new 40mm lineup were Rolesium ref. 126622 and Everose Rolesor ref. 126621.

Future Classic?

The Yacht-Master ref. 116655 has all the hallmarks of a classic in the making.  It’s a radical departure from the norm, and it debuted several never-before-seen features.  Additionally, Its matte dial with the red text gives it a healthy vintage feel, and its hefty retail price will grant it an invaluable degree of exclusivity.

If we were gamblers, we certainly wouldn’t bet against it becoming a highly sought-after piece in years to come, but that isn’t the best reason to add one to your collection if the budget allows. This is simply one of the most strikingly good-looking and capable watches ever produced by a brand that sets the standard other manufacturers try to live up to. A model welcomed anywhere, whether on deck or on the beach, the Everose gold Yacht-Master 40 is Rolex at their formidable best.

About Paul Altieri

Paul Altieri is a vintage and pre-owned Rolex specialist, entrepreneur, and the founder and CEO of BobsWatches.com. - the largest and most trusted name in luxury watches. He is widely considered a pioneer in the industry for bringing transparency and innovation to a once-considered stagnant industry. His experience spans over 35 years and he has been published in numerous publications including Forbes, The NY Times, WatchPro, and Fortune Magazine. Paul is committed to staying up-to-date with the latest research and developments in the watch industry and e-commerce, and regularly engages with other professionals in the industry. He is a member of the IWJG, the AWCI and a graduate of the GIA. Alongside running the premier retailer of pre-owned Rolex watches, Paul is a prominent Rolex watch collector himself amassing one of the largest private collections of rare timepieces. In an interview with the WSJ lifestyle/fashion editor Christina Binkley, Paul opened his vault to display his extensive collection of vintage Rolex Submariners and Daytonas. Paul Altieri is a trusted and recognized authority in the watch industry with a proven track record of expertise, professionalism, and commitment to excellence.

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Rolex Yachtmaster 116655 Full Review

Behold the  new rose gold Rolex Yachtmaster with the Rolex Oysterflex Bracelet: Rolex's 1st Rubber Strap

With the new rose gold Rolex Yachtmaster, Rolex watchmakers held no punches and put in nearly every great idea they ever had into one amazing watch. The Rolex Yachtmaster has been around since the early '90s and came in an assortment of materials from gold and steel all the way up to platinum. They are known for being shiny and luxurious from one end to the next. So it comes as no surprise that the world was taken by a storm when they decided to use rubber to introduce the new Rolex Yachtmaster watch reference #116655 . Was it a step up or a step down for the series? PrestigeTime.com bloggers believe that pictures speak much louder than words.

The new men's Yachtmaster from Rolex is a 40mm 18k rose gold case watch with a black dial and accented in Rolex's very own Everose gold. Just like their proprietary 18kt rose gold alloy, Rolex will always prefer to create the status quo and not have to rise to meet it because of anyone else.

In the new rose gold Rolex Yachtmaster, they held no punches and put in nearly every great idea they ever had into one amazing watch.

At the core lies their in-house Rolex movement, the automatic caliber 3135 which resonates at 28,800 vph containing 31 jewels and has a whopping 50-hour power reserve. Of course, it would not be complete without their "Cyclops" magnifier. The new rose gold Rolex Yachtmaster is also known as the m116655-0001.

Rolex is also no stranger to trending luxury watches. They tend to be the first in doing and introducing many things. While rubber has been around for a long time and has been used on many watches over the years, both high-end luxury watches and everything else. Rubber had no place on a Rolex watch until now. Rolex waited this long to introduce this material into their products not because they were hesitant to be part of the trend, on the contrary, 

they wanted to revolutionize the rubber watch band before using it on their first-ever rubber strapped watch. Creating the best rubber bracelet was something Rolex obsessed about until its perfection. Enter the new Rolex  Oysterflex bracelet which we hope to see on more of their men's watches. A rubber-coated two-piece titanium bracelet with a patented cushioning system. The black elastomer coating is a similar substance to what you see on the Apple Watch. The bracelet has an Oysterlock clasp in solid 18k Everose gold which seals the deal. Rolex held nothing back in reinventing and over-engineering the perfect rubber bracelet that has the same elasticity as a metal bracelet without the initial cold feeling of a metal bracelet when first placed on a wrist. Now it's just a matter of time before a platinum Rolex comes with a rubber Oysterflex bracelet.

In 2015 Rolex introduces the Rolex Yachtmaster watch model #116655, the first Rolex watch with the all-new rubber Oysterflex band with an 18k rose gold clasp. After its creation, they saw all that they have made …and it was good.

Most recently this watch has been upgraded with a new movement and new reference number that we sell new, in its original box, with a warranty, and with free shipping to the United States. The new Rolex 126655 Yachtmaster 40mm is essentially the same watch with a few improvements. Specifically, the caliber inside has been replaced with the Rolex in-house caliber 3235, a Superlative Chronometer with exceptional precision, 31 watch jewels, Paraflex shock absorbers, and a substantially longer power reserve duration of approximately 70 hours.

Not sure if this collection is the right one for you?

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• Comparisons

Review: Rolex Yacht-Master 42

The Yacht-Master was, once upon a time, Rolex’s least popular model. Reportedly a botched attempt to rejuvenate the Submariner line for a wealthier audience, it languished for decades at the bottom of the pile, unloved. But something has changed in recent years, something that has revitalised the Yacht-Master into a watch people actually want. Could the latest addition to the collection be the best yet?

Okay, so the story goes that in the early days, post-quartz crisis, Rolex was floundering to realign the brand into something that would catch the attention of a modern audience. Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe had demonstrated a demand for high-end, high-priced sports watches, and by comparison, Rolex’s no-nonsense Submariner et al were a little reserved.

In fact, a little reserved was Rolex’s whole business model. The brand had spent a century building up dominance from scratch by utilising a simple platform to build a series of professional watches that were primarily designed for work and not play. There was no fancy finishing or exquisite designs—it was the utilitarian nature that made a Rolex stand out from its competitors.

But professionals didn’t need these watches any more, and so that left Rolex with a problem. It was time to adapt or go home. That’s when someone at Rolex headquarters had a good idea: why not take the Submariner, give it a polish, dress it up with fancy materials and re-release it as the new-and-improved Submariner for the gentleman who likes to dive not from an oil platform, but a yacht?

So, that’s what Rolex did, but legend has it that right at the last minute a decision was made, and this new watch was released not as the new Submariner, but the Yacht-Master instead. First seen in 1992, all in gold with a dial in rich blue sunburst or white with black markers, the new Yacht-Master was destined to make a splash.

Although—it didn’t. It barely made a plop. This was because a new breed of watch collector had taken a fancy to something else of Rolex’s—the very watches the brand thought it needed to move away from. Vintage Submariners, Explorers, Sea-Dwellers, these were the watches collectors wanted, and so the Rolex way of life went on, safe in the hands of a fresh audience that could only ever want more.

But the Yacht-Master still existed, languishing, at the back of jeweller’s window displays. Not even a refresh in steel with sparkling platinum dial and red accents could attract any takers, and so the Yacht-Master line fell into hibernation for over fifteen years. In 2015, however, something completely unexpected happened.

As your sixteen-year-old school kid self will often remind you through haunting memories as you try to drift off to sleep of an evening, popularity is fleeting. It’s an ethereal concept, a balance of ingredients that no-one has ever quite managed to nail down. What can seem like it should be popular can fall flat on its face, and what shouldn’t can end up as the must-have item of the moment. It’s both precarious and mysterious.

In 2015, Rolex found that magic ingredient, redressing its Yacht-Master once again as the 116655, but this time in rose gold with a black ceramic bezel, matte black dial and, heaven forbid, a rubber strap. When you lay that down in theory, it sounds like the work of a fashion Neanderthal, pairing precious metals with synthetic rubber, but do you know what? It worked. The Yacht-Master went from hero to zero with the 116655, hitting a spot so sweet that it became a watch that Rolex had to let you buy rather you let them sell.

And now they’ve done it again, taking that delicate balance of secret herbs and spices and adding a dash more chilli pepper, because for 2019, we have the Yacht-Master 42 226659. Sometimes it may seem like Rolex isn’t listening, but believe me, they’ve got their ears glued to the ground, and the Yacht-Master 42 proves it.

The recipe is much the same as the 116655, but with two major differences. The first, more obvious in isolation, is the white gold case, which sets off the monochromatic theme very nicely, and the second, which a glance at the name of this watch will reveal, is the new, upsized case dimensions. Like the Explorer II and the Sky-Dweller, the Yacht-Master 42 is, well, 42mm in diameter.

This is simultaneously such a big deal and such a small one. It’s only two tiny millimetres bigger, yet the impact is somehow dramatic. It has a presence that dominates, like a new-found confidence after years of being the ugly duckling in a flock of swans. It’s like that bit at the end of the movie where the nerd gets a makeover and turns out to be solid ten out of ten after all, giving them a new lease of life. You could almost say it was arrogant, but isn’t that exactly what you want from the most luxurious of sports watches?

The 226659’s namesake has never been about reticence. You want the biggest yacht in the harbour, tender, helipad and all, and that’s why the Yacht-Master 42 has immediately become the king of its collection. There’s no room for tugboats and barges here: only the sleek, shiny and impressive need apply, and the Yacht-Master 42 is exactly that.

If there’s one thing Rolex has consistently achieved throughout its years making watches, it’s prophecy. The wristwatch, the dive watch, the Daytona—all these things were revealed by the brand before the world was fully ready to understand them. The Yacht-Master is perhaps the most surprising of all, a reaction to a changing market that only came to bloom several decades after inception. With the Yacht-Master 42 now leading the way, I think that’s what Rolex would call a win-win.

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