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Voyager explains junk rig choice

My decision to buy a Chinese junk-rigged schooner was shaped by several factors. Foremost was the certainty that I would be voyaging and not racing. The second important consideration was the rig’s simplicity. Made up mostly of lines and knots, this feature guaranteed less maintenance time and far less maintenance and replacement costs. There would be no expensive stainless fittings, winches, or high-tech sail materials. The third consideration was ease of handling. I knew that I would probably sail by myself or with inexperienced crews. Therefore, I wanted a boat I could handle safely and comfortably from the cockpit with a minimum of sail handling on the foredeck. Last, I was won over by the design and voyaging exploits of several well-known sailors who experimented with modern interpretations of this almost 2,000-year-old rig.

Back in the 1970s, Thomas Colvin designed and built several junk-rigged boats in Chesapeake Bay. One of his most popular designs, an aluminum schooner called Gazelle, can still be found occasionally in classified sailing magazine advertisements. He extolled the unique charm of the Chinese junk rig in a book called Cruising as a Way of Life.

Englishmen Blondie Hassler and Michael Richey made history by sailing the junk-rigged folkboat, Jester, in 13 successive Atlantic singlehanded races. It was the first singlehanded Atlantic race in 1960 that pitted Chichester against Hassler and his junk-rigged sloop. Chi-chester’s Gypsy Moth won that race, but Jester, captained by Michael Richey, subsequently established a record for the most race attempts. The fact that the boat and rig held up in this most inhospitable North Atlantic Ocean race is a testament to the boat and sail designs. In 1988 Hassler teamed up with Jock McLeod to write a definitive book on the junk-rig called Practical Junk Rig.

A dedicated group of British sailors has adapted this ancient sail plan for modern Western craft. They also formed the Junk Rig Association to further the study and exchange of ideas toward improving the rig. One of my all-time favorite sailor-authors is Bernard Moitessier. This Frenchman was born in Vietnam and acquired much of his early sailing experience in traditional junks. Although he changed to a more modern Bermuda-rigged boat for his many sailing exploits, he wrote nostalgically about those early sailing days in junks.

Almost everyone’s first sailing hero is Joshua Slocum. His greatest exploit is being the first singlehander to make it around the world in 1895 and write about it in a book called Sailing Alone around the World. He accomplished this awesome feat in a boat called Spray, a traditional gaff-rigged schooner. However, later in life he built the junk-rigged Liberdade for a trip from South America back to the U.S. This adventure is described in his book The Voyage of the Liberdade. The writings of these famous sailors made a deep impression on my choice of boat. Admittedly, I was also drawn to the uniqueness of the sail design. I wanted to be different and not have a boat that looked like every other boat in the harbor. I finally settled on a 32-foot Sunbird schooner made in England. It has a traditional Western, fiberglass hull and a pair of tan-bark, Chinese junk sails.

Almost everyone who stops to stare at my rig admires the unusual design but quickly turns the discussion to her poor light-air windward performance. I don’t disagree with this assessment, although I get a little frustrated and defensive having to explain that there is much more to voyaging than going to windward. I feel that the positive qualities of the rig far outweigh this concern.

Over years of coastal cruising I have learned to live with the fact that anywhere from 20% to 40% of passage time is spent under engine power or motorsailing. On my two transatlantic crossings, the engine was used more sparingly, and the sailing was slow but kindly. Even after an unfortunate dismasting of the foresail in mid-ocean, 1,500 miles from the Canaries, the remaining sail provided a safe, albeit slower, passage to the Bahamas.

In his wonderfully illustrated book, Ships of China, Valentin Sokoloff writes, "A hand-crafted sailing ship is a living thing with its own character and charm. A Chinese junk is even more so, and no wonder, as it was invented by an offspring of a nymph and a rainbow. His name was Fu Hsi, the first great ruler, who, they say, was born in 2852 B.C. Then Lu Pan, founder of the art of carpentry, greatly improved the original design. Further generations of Chinese shipwrights gave junks their final seaworthy and practical shape."

The evolution of sailboat design in the West has taken place over a much shorter period of time and a much different tack than in China. Today the epitome of Western boat design is represented by America’s Cup contenders and similar high-tech racing boats. Variations of the Bermuda rig (also known as Marconi rig, for the inventor’s tall radio transmitting tower) is seen on virtually every racing and voyaging boat to come off the showroom floor. For the most part, the emphasis in these designs is speed and, particularly, performance to windward. But there are obviously other aspects of sailing, especially voyaging; that is where the Chinese rig comes into its own.

The distinct advantage of the Chinese balanced-lug rig is in shorthanded, comfortable voyaging. Modern junk rigs have married the ancient designs with new materials, replacing bamboo and grass mats with fiberglass and Dacron. The resulting modern rig can be easily handled with less strength and endurance and without leaving the safety of the cockpit. Sailing with this rig can be relaxed, enjoyable, and safe without the high working loads of more popular triangular sails with their taut sheets and strenuous winching. The junk rig is easily reefed in strong winds and easily balanced for self-steering vanes and for lower loads on the tiller or wheel.

At first sight the rig’s unusual appearance is confusing to Western eyes. However, it is extraordinarily simple, clever, and easy to handle. The balanced-lug sails have full-length fiberglass battens that are laced across the width of the sail from luff to leech, as shown in the accompanying illustration. Each of the battens divides the sail into separate panels. The top batten is the yard, a heavier batten than the others because it carries the full weight of the sail. The bottom batten is the boom. It carries very little load and, therefore, needs to be no larger than the other battens.

The head of the sail is laced to the yard, which is hauled up by the halyard. The halyard is a multi-part block system to reduce the effort of hauling the sail. No winches are needed with this system, and the halyard can be hauled from the cockpit. The sail is held against the mast by a series of batten parrels. The sail always lies on one side of the mast and extends a short distance forward of the mast. This is what makes it a balanced lug rig, similar to a balanced rudder with a small area in front of the rudder stock. On one tack the sail lies directly on the mast. On the other tack it is constrained by the batten parrels. Multiple topping lifts, or lazy jacks, are tied off at the boom and create a cradle for the sail when reefed or completely lowered.

Two additional parrel lines are led back to the cockpit to control the fore and aft position of the sail. The yard parrel is used to hold the yard snugly to the mast. This is most important when the sail is reefed and would have a tendency to swing aft of the mast. The yard parrel brings the sail forward. Similarly, the luff parrel is used to prevent the sail from going too far forward and maintains moderate tension on the luff of the sail. Between these two parrel lines, the sail is kept in correct position, especially when reefed.

Simply lowering the halyard any distance reefs the sail. The more the halyard is lowered, the more panels are reefed. It acts like venetian blinds that are easily raised or lowered. As the panels are reefed, they and their battens lie in the cradle formed by the lazy jack system. The weight of the lowered battens prevents the sails from billowing out between the lazy jacks. The sails are automatically held in check no matter how many battens are lowered. This makes it unnecessary to tie reefing points or bundle the sail with sail ties.

As soon as the halyard is slackened, the sheets become loose, and the sail begins to spill wind. However, unlike other sails, it will not flog and damage itself if the sheet is loosened. The full-length battens make the rig much quieter without the loud banging associated with flogging sails. In light, downwind sailing, the battens also prevent the sails from collapsing periodically, thereby reducing sail wear and noise. A single sheet system controls the boom and all the other battens through a series of spans (sheetlets). This provides control over the entire leech of the sail, unlike a Bermuda rig where sheet control is only over the boom or clew of the sail. Therefore, the load on the tail end of the multi-part sheet is light and easily handled without a winch. The portion of the balanced-lug sail forward of the mast performs an important function, contributing to the safety and comfort of the crew. When wind and boat direction conspire to create an accidental gybe, the small portion of sail before the mast counters the wind’s effect on the remaining sail area and dampens the motion of the sail. This slows the otherwise violent tendency of the sail to flip to the other side of the boat. Both intentional and accidental gybing become much less hair-raising. The free-standing masts of a junk-rigged boat are typically designed to be somewhat flexible. They bend when winds get too strong, and spill the wind in the process. This bending reduces the heeling of the boat and acts as an automatic shock absorber in sudden gusts that would otherwise severely heel a conventional stayed-mast boat.

The Chinese junk-rigged boat is not for everyone. For most people, the Bermuda rig, with its conventional triangular sails, is more popular, either for the look or the windward performance. However, for those seeking a more effortless sailing experience with a unique traditional rig, the junk sail plan is an interesting alternative. n

Michael L. Frankel is a freelance writer who lives in Orange Park, Fla., when he isn’t voyaging aboard his 32-foot Chinese junk-rigged Sunbird, Sabra.

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What’s in A Rig? The Junk Rig

By: Pat Reynolds Sailboat Rigs , Sailboats

What’s in a Rig Series #3

There’s probably no rig more fascinating than the junk rig. Long before Columbus’ time, early as the 10 th century, the Chinese were making their way through the oceans with a rig that has amazingly stood the test of the time. There are many who feel that this very old but very innovative sail plan is superior to the more popular and ubiquitous sloop rig and others.

The junk is predicated upon sails that are fully battened, a characteristic associated with more modern racing vessels and they typically lack any standing rigging (stays and shrouds). They are a completely different looking sail plan and in practice it’s clear the early Chinese engineers and designers were way ahead of their time. A thousand years later, there are  advocates ready to point out the many areas where the junks reign supreme.

Due to the full batten set-up, the sails maintain an efficient consistent shape and are fast, especially downwind. In a big breeze junk owners will attest that they’re extremely easy to reef and, as an added bonus, are inherently self-tacking. There are obvious cost benefits to not having any standing rigging – no maintenance, replacement or (costs aside) anxiety about sudden failure. Because of the full battens, there’s also no flogging or flapping of sails and there’s fewer blind spots, like what you might experience with a large genoa on a sloop or cutter rig .

The main disadvantage that’s cited with junk rigs is there upwind deficiency. Although there are theories as to how to improve this, most junk owners will concede that the best they can do is come closer to how well a sloop travels upwind.

Like everything when it comes to choosing a rig, it’s about where you want to compromise. But junk rigs are definitely rife with attributes and many modern hull designs are candidates for retrofitting. And, you must admit… they’re pretty cool looking.

What's in a Rig Series:

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There has been a lot of interest about Junk Rigs lately with the success of several cruising yachts. This article is a result of the reading and notes I took while figuring out why the junk rig was so well liked by people who had tried it.

Junk Rig advantages and disadvantages

Junk is a boat, junk rig is, well, the traditional rig of a junk boat.

A Junk BOAT, is a classic Chinese sailing vessel of ancient origin, still widely found in many Asian countries. Junk can have up to five usually unstayed masts. The square - ish sails can be made of a number of materials. Old sacking, woven reeds, various cloths and modern fabrics have all been used. There are a number of full width battens which stiffen the sail. The design of the sail allows it to be fully or partially deployed. Because of the full length battens the sail can be easily and gradually dropped into lazy jacks.

Junks (boat) have no keel but have a large rudder which acts as a keel.

A junk RIG is the sail and all the lines and hardware that controls the sail.

Photo above is a private unpublished photo taken in Hong Kong around 1969 by Nick Boothby.

What is a junk rig and what are all the lines controlling it?

A junk sail/rig is a balanced lug sail more or less rectangular in shape. The rectangular shape sometimes is modified so that the top sections are fan shaped. It has a yard or top batten and a boom or lowest batten. Unlike the western lug sail, it is separated into several horizontal sections by a series of fairly rigid battens. These battens are almost always laced to the outside rather than positioned in pockets.

The battens have several key functions.

They distribute the loads and stresses throughout the sail reducing stress on any one point. This means that a quite large junk sails can be made from materials that would fail quickly in standard lug sails.

The Battens of the Junk Rig provide points of attachment and control for lines that attach to the leach, (trailing end) of the sail and allow for quite fine adjustment of the sail. Have a look at the photos below that clearly shows the lines leading to the stern of the boat on the left. These lines, which are connected, can control the sail with only one line. This is accomplished by a complex looking system of blocks. I say complex looking because once they are set up, then adjustments are very simply made.

Photo is scan of old print by Lai Afong [CC BY-SA 4.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0)], via Wikimedia Commons

The battens also provide points of attachment for one or more downhauls. Simple sails have fewer but it is possible to have as many downhauls as there are battens. These downhauls simplify reefing. There is no need to tie up the reefed parts of the sail. The halyard is loosened, the sail lowers because of the weight of the battens, or is pulled down, the new downhaul from a higher batten is fastened and the halyard is made tight. Simple and quick sail reduction on all points of sail.

Since each batten is fastened to the mast using lines or parrel beads, the sail is better controlled.

Lazy Jacks take up the reefed or lowered sail

All Junk rigs have robust lazy jacks that controls the sail as it is lowered and keep the reefed sections out of the way. Unlike the western balanced lug, the top of the rig is controlled as it is lowered and falls into the lazyjacks without much argument.

The Junk Rig has a halyard

The halyard used on a junk rig has to be quite a sturdy affair and often has blocks and winches to raising the quite heavy sail.

What are the advantages of Balanced Lugs including Junk Rigs?

The balanced lug sail has long been used by pleasure boaters and the reasons are compelling.

• As in all square sails, you can put up a lot of sail on a shorter often unstayed mast.
• Because part of the sail lives in front of the mast, it is light to sheet and control.
• For the same reason, jibing is less of an issue than in sails that are all behind the mast. The feared accidental jibe is not as dangerous as in other rigs.
• It is simple to keep a good shape on all points of sail.
• Reefing is quite simple and can be done while underway.
• Even while heavily reefed, the sail still remains balanced. The centre of effort hardly shifts.
• It is a relatively simple sail to make.
• It is docile easily controlled sail.

There are a few disadvantages in the use of Balanced Lugs

• Unless lazy jacks are set up it can ungainly to lower. Since the sail is not laced on its sides it can flop around and billow.
• The yard end pivots down from the mast and points downward as it is lowered or the sail is reduced. It does not necessarily fall into the lazyjack easily and often has to be grabbed and controlled as it sways and bounces around.
• Sail can twist at the top.
• The luff in front of the mast, has to be quite strong because it is subject to a lot of tension from the yard which acts as a lever balanced at the mast.
• Like many of the other square sails, there is a good tack when the mast is on the front of the sail, and a bad tack where the mast is behind the sail and distorts the shape. In practice this is not as important as it would first seem to be. In my Sprit sail, the "bad" tack is sometimes faster. To eliminate this disadvantage, if the boat has more than one mast, the sails are attached in an opposite side so that there is always one sail with a good tack.

Most of these disadvantages have been eliminated in the junk rig.

What advantages and disadvantages does a Junk Rig Bring.

Upside of junk rigs.

The junk rig benefits from all the Western Balanced Lug advantages and a few of its own.

• Because of the large number of battens the sail is divided in many sections which can be individually controlled. Superior control is the greatest advantage of the Junk Rig.
• There is no need to round up and put the nose in the wind to lower sails. Because of the battens there is no fluttering of edges either.
• Each small sections is attached to the mast and acts as a small sail. This reduces the stress on any one spot of the sail. Any stress is much better distributed than in the Bermudian rig. Many junk boats had sails made of woven reeds or quite light fabric. This also means that if a section is damaged this is not propagated to the rest of the sail. Any old picture of junks will show sails often with a considerable number of holes and repairs.
• Junk rigs have lines from the end of each of the battens and this provides very accurate control on how the sail sets. Unwanted twist is practically eliminated. Twist is sometimes encouraged as a means of adding shape to a flat sail.
• The weight of the battens allow the sail to be reefed or taken down quite easily from all points of sail. The weight tensioning the sail while it is lowered. This stops the yard and other battens from pointing downwards and flopping around. In some rigs there are even downhauls from all the battens.
• The lazyjacks or topping lifts control the sail as it goes down and the sail folds itself safely without much human intervention. Because of all the control lines at the end of the battens, the top yard is controlled and stays in position ready to fall quietly into the lazy jack as do the other battens. Have a look at the end of this Youtube video where the sail is being lowered.

Downside of Junk Rig

All this control and safety comes at some cost.

• Extra cost is one of these. There are a lot of details on a junk rig.
• The rig is heavier than most. This means that even a relatively small sail is quite heavy to raise.
• With all the lines and blocks, it is more complex to set up. Once set up though it is no more complicated to get going than a bermudian rig.
• A traditional junk sail is flat and not as efficient as a shaped sail. Moving to winward in light wind is not easy. BUT if the sail has a fanned top rather than squarer, the top part of the sail can be allowed to twists and create some camber improving performance.
• Making a junk sail can be quite time consuming because there are a lot of little bits and bobs to deal with. There are attachment for the control lines at the back of the battens, for the lazy jacks, for the parrel beads or whatever method is used to tie the boom/battens to the mast, lots of chafing gear, lacing for the battens, attachment for the downhauls (sometimes placed on each batten). There are lots of blocks, grommets, roping and lines. All this adds up.
• Anywhere on a boat where there is a line, there is a chance it will get fouled up.

Modern junk Rigs have improved performance.

Modern junk rigs have been modified from traditional shapes to improve the set of the sail and provide additional lift.

Traditionally, the sail is cut flat. There are no curves or difference in seams (broadseaming) that add shape to the panels.

By modifying the shape of each little rectangle so that there some curve to the cut rather than just a straight line where the battens attach, the individual panels can be made to have shape and improve performance

Wikipedia article on the Princess Taiping which sailed from Taiwan to San Francisco and almost all the way back, she collided with another ship just a few kilometres from Taiwan. This voyage nevertheless demonstrated the seaworthiness of the junk boats and rigs.

More Junk Rig Links and Information

Because of the stellar qualities and success of the junk rig, many sailors are trying them out.

One of the complaints that recur about junk rig boats is how rare and difficult to buy they are. The junk rig association has a for sale section as well as many links and a forum

• Annie Hill sailed Badger and wrote "Voyaging on a Small Income." Her ship was designed by Jay Benford
• Roger Tailor has crised extensively in his Mingmings. Here is a youtube video of MingmingII
• Joshua Slocum sailed Liberdada and wrote the "voyage of Liberdade"

• Kasten Marine has a nice article Good diagram of how the front lines come together to a single line.
• Tom Colvin's Gazelle is the stuff of legends.
• Cruising Ashiki is an interesting blog Lower in the page there is some discussion and photos of panels with cambered sail vs completely flat junk sail.
• The must read book is Practical Junk Rig Design Aerodynamics and handling by Hasler and McLeod.
• Good Tutorial on Junk rig in the Cheap Pages.com

I try to be accurate and check my information, but mistakes happen.

Small Print

This information is for general knowledge and entertainment. I was interested and wrote up my notes for anyone who was also looking at junk sails. I'm not an expert, just a curious george.

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COLVIN GAZELLE: A Junk-Rigged Cruising Icon

American shipwright and boat designer Tom Colvin , who has long championed both metal construction and junk rigs on cruising sailboats, has designed about 300 small ships and boats over the course of a career that has now spanned about 70 years. He designed the original Gazelle for himself and his family to cruise aboard way back in 1967. She has since proven to be both his most successful and perhaps most interesting creation, with over 700 sisterships launched to date.

The first Gazelle was conceived as a no-frills light-displacement boat that could function both as a shoal-draft coastal cruiser on Chesapeake Bay, where Colvin was based at the time, and as a bluewater cruiser. She was built of 10-gauge Corten steel (i.e., about 3.4-mm thick), except for the main cabin top, which was marine plywood. The ballast consisted of lead bricks stacked in the keel and capped with cement. To save weight, Gazelle carried no engine and her hull form was long and lean. Her most distinctive feature was her schooner rig, which consisted of two Chinese junk sails mounted on lightly stayed aluminum masts with a Western-style triangular jib out front flying from a long bowsprit. She also carried a triangular “fisherman” sail between her masts or sometimes flew a loose-luffed reaching staysail from her main masthead.

By all accounts the first Gazelle sailed well, as is reflected in her performance ratios. She balanced well on all points of sail, her helm required little attention, except when running dead downwind, and she was reasonably fast. Colvin reported hitting speeds of around 9 knots sailing his boat. A sistership built soon after the first, Migrant , once reported a best day’s run of 202 miles and a best week’s average of 163 miles per day during an extended bluewater cruise. But Gazelle ’s windward performance, in Colvin’s own words, was “less than breathtaking.” She usually had to sail 50 degrees or more off the wind to maintain speed and course. Thanks to her narrow beam, shoal draft, and generous sail plan, she also needed reefing early, which is easy to do on any junk-rigged vessel.

Very few of Gazelle ’s many sisterships are as simple–or as light–as the original. Almost all have engines installed in the large midships cargo area that separates the main cabin from the aft cabin. Colvin himself installed a small 10-hp Sabb diesel in his Gazelle before selling her; most other owners have specified much larger engines and in some cases have grossly overpowered their boats. Most sisterships also have heavier interior joinery; in some cases the scantlings have also been increased. Colvin estimates the average displacement is about 6,000 pounds heavier than that of his first boat; he cites one extreme case where a boat was built almost 20,000 pounds overweight (before the rig and ballast were installed)!

On the other hand, most sisterships do have electrical systems, a feature lacking on the original, plus other modern amenities. Several Gazelles have been built in aluminum, which saves a lot of weight, and a small handful have also been built in wood. The vast majority are junk-rigged, though some have gaff-schooner or gaff-ketch rigs, which reportedly work well. The least successful sail plans, according to Colvin, are single-mast Marconi sloop and cutter rigs, as the boat has trouble standing up to a taller single spar and does not balance as well.

The interior lay-out is similar to those seen on modern center-cockpit boats, except there is no cockpit. Instead the helmsman is stationed on a flush-decked area between the main and aft cabins, directly abaft the mainmast and directly over the engine or cargo area.

The first Gazelle originally had a small double berth oriented fore and aft offset to starboard in the aft cabin. Colvin later changed this and installed separate single berths port and starboard, which he felt was more seamanlike. Many sisterships instead have large athwartship doubles all the way aft. These are very comfortable in a calm harbor, but are less comfortable when the boat is underway or rolling at anchor. They also interfere with the worm-gear steering system specified by Colvin and require the installation of hydraulic steering instead, which dampens the helm’s responsiveness. In the original design the aft cabin, which also houses the nav station, has no standing headroom, as the deck overhead is flush save for a large scuttle housing its forward-facing companionway. On several sisterships, however, an aft cabinhouse has been added.

The main cabin connects to the aft cabin belowdeck via the engine or cargo area, which has only stooping headroom. The main cabin does have full standing headroom and can be laid out several different ways. In most cases the forepeak has a narrow V-berth bisected by the keel-stepped foremast, which precludes installing a filler section to make the berth a double. On some boats the foremast is deck-stepped and the space is configured differently.

Directly behind the peak there is an athwartship head (the original design also calls for a second toilet in the aft cabin, though not in an enclosed head compartment). In the first Gazelle the galley was originally at the aft end of the main cabin, ranged around the companionway, with two outboard pilot berths and a pair of narrow settees either side of a drop-leaf table in the saloon forward of the galley. Colvin deemed this inadequate and later changed things around, placing the galley forward, just abaft the head, with one outboard pilot berth and a dinette aft to starboard of the companionway opposite a single straight settee. In the majority of sisterships, however, the galley seems to be aft, where the motion should be more comfortable in a seaway.

Used Gazelles are very attractively priced and construction costs keep escalating, so it is hard to justify building a new one. As of 2006, there was a firm in India, Kondo Syokai, offering to sell new Gazelles for a sail-away price of 50,000 British pounds, but according to Colvin they have only built one boat to date. If shopping for Gazelles on the brokerage market, be warned that listed specifications are often based on the original design displacement rather than actual displacement, hence may be wildly inaccurate.

Specifications

LOA : 49’0”

LOD : 42’2”

LWL : 33’0”

Beam: 11’4”

Draft: 3’10”

Ballast: 7,500 lbs.

Sail area: 854 sq.ft.

Water: 60 gal.

Displacement

–Original: 18,000 lbs.

–Average: 24,000 lbs.

–Original: 223

–Average: 298

–Original: 19.86

–Average: 16.39

Comfort ratio

–Original:30.45

–Average: 40.60

Capsize screening: 1.73

Nominal hull speed

–Original: 8.8 knots

–Average: 8.0 knots

Typical asking prices: $30K – $70K

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Looking for Gazelle owners and sailors…..

I recognize the interior photo’s in your article. That’s my boat, Summer Wind! We have a small tour and charter business in Philadelphia. Sailing to windward is an issue, as you mention, and I’m thinking about cambered junk sails in the future. I like the work that Arne Kverneland has done.

@Tom: I hope you don’t me borrowing the interior pix. She looks very nice! Thanks for stopping by.

I sailed a junk rigged Gazelle from New Zealand to Mexico via Pitcairn Island in 1988. It was quite painful at times. One passage took 7 days to do 296 miles. Good strong boat but sails like a well trimmed refrigerator. Down wind in 40kts she would get going!

Hi Tom, I actually sailed on the blue hulled Indigo pictured above and am a self proclaimed gazellaphile but have suffered the impure thoughts of redesigning Colvins sacred form to allow for better upwind performance. I am curious how the cambered panels works?

We own Madam Wong, a Colvin Junk rig, a sister ship to Kung-Fu-Tse. We have cambered junk sails and she sails pretty well in all conditions. The self-tacking rig is a dream to sail.

Hi All , Tomas E. Colvin died September 1, 2014. He was 89. He will be sorely missed.

@Kevin: I am very sorry to hear that, and very sorry for your loss. He was a great designer and yachtsman!

Sorry about Tom He was most helpful with information and replied with thoughtful answers to my many questions This is a great loss I own the blue hulled boat in the article It is on the Oregon coast and sails that mean water happily.

Curious about where my fathers old Gazelle is. It was sold to the Unruhs in 1995. At that time it was named NAAM. It was beautifully finished on the interior with 5 different kinds of wood, the hull was steel made in BC and shipped down to Bainbridge Island where my father built it out.

I am new to the junk rig and am reading and watching all I can and trying to make sense of it. Camber is a big issue. I read that the Chinese didn’t need it because natural fibers stretched and provided the curve. I wonder if natural fibers on the bottom and modern sailcloth at the top for a flat storm sail would be a way to go. They could be connected with a piano hinge a la Mingming 2. Has this been tried?

I own a Gazelle built in 1986 by Barnes. My copy of the hull offsets has become damaged. Does anyone have a copy they could help me with the missing numbers?

Good Afternoon All, I have been trying to find a copy of Mr. Colvin’s book Sail Making especially for chapters 13 and 15 ( standing rigging and hanging the junk sail). Does anyone know if Mr. Colvin’s is selling copies of his books? I have tried, unsuccessfully, to contact someone through the WEB page, email, and phone. I am a relatively new owner of a Gazelle, love the boat but have some questions about how the previous owner has her rigged. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Pat Reed [email protected]

Good afternoon again In my orevious post I said I was trying to find a copy of Mr. Colvin’s book on sailmaking or chapters 13 and 15. That was an error – the chapters I am most interested in are chapters 12 and 14.

Thanks in advance for any help

Hi NAncy Murray here she was beautifully done and Mac was a very good woodworker.

Hi I am hoping to get in contact with Kevin Colvin in regards to boat plans. I can be reached at [email protected] Cheers, Emil

Still looking…..

[quote=Nancy McKay]Curious about where my fathers old Gazelle is. It was sold to the Unruhs in 1995. At that time it was named NAAM. It was beautifully finished on the interior with 5 different kinds of wood, the hull was steel made in BC and shipped down to Bainbridge Island where my father built it out.

Hi NAncy Murray here she was beautifully done and Mac was a very good woodworker.[/quote] Hi Nancy, I think your boat is on Lopez Island where Steve and Ilene Unrah live. She is re-named Finn. But the sails are on our Gazelle ‘Vagrant, here in Tonga!

Not sure if this is still active but we sail a Gazelle and have just completed a 22 yr long circumnavigation. Now in Brazil. Vessel name is GAIA. We are Jim and Helen and our email address is [email protected] would love to hear from anybody re Gazelles. Specifically for now we need to know Tom’s specifications for the bowsprit on the Gazelle. We cracked our wood bowsprit in the the Indian Ocean and want to replace it with Aluminum or steel but do not have Tom’s scantlings on board. Any help would be appreciated via email please.

Jim and Helen

Hi all I am Stephen Nelson the proud new owner of Irena purchased from Capt George Wall a Gazelle 42 . Looking for sisterships her new home will be Scotts Ck Portsmouth Va. [email protected] 757 377 4470

Hi Nancy, I know exactly where Mac’s boat wound up, I’m the current owner! I’d love to get in touch with you and round out the story a bit. Also curious how “Shane” got the sails?

I’ve also tried to start a facebook group for Gazelle owners. Not sure if it will work but if it doesn’t we can always make a web page instead… https://www.facebook.com/groups/1644657069131996/

My father, John Burtchell, bought Colvin’s original Gazelle back in the early 70’s. He, my Mom, sister and brother lived aboard for 10 years or so, mostly in Melbourne Florida. They sold it and ended up in East Palatka Florida where my Dad passed away in 2000. Last I knew a family from Alaska bought it but I believe it’s changed hands a few times. Would LOVE to know where it is now.

I’ve just heard that it was in a Hurricane in the Carolina’s a few years ago and that it may have been destroyed. So sad.

Nice article! A friend is refurbishing a Gazelle and has not yet figured out how to rig the “fisherman,” primarily the tack. Can you provide any information or photos on how the “fisherman” is rigged? It has been great to see the Gazelle come back to life under his careful workmanship.

Hey Doug: Yikes. I have no firsthand experience flying a fisherman on a Gazelle. About a year once on an Alden staysail schooner, where it was pretty straightforward. But no, I have no answers to this particular question. Maybe someone else here can help??? cheers, charlie

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Junk boat design explained: How this ancient sailplan still performs well today

• August 10, 2022

In this article from the PBO archives, Vincent Reddish unravels some of the secrets of the junk boat’s enduring popularity in his quest for the optimum sail plan...

Facing retirement with angina and a persistent back injury, I was persuaded by John Campbell’s book Easier Rigs for Safer Cruising that a junk rig would be the thing for my intended new boat, a Vertue; but to gain experience I first decided to convert my existing Leisure 17.

I bought Jock McLeod’s design folios, and in due course Hasler & McLeod’s Tactical Junk Rig Design . This proved an invaluable book; without it I doubt if I could have rigged the sail successfully: it’s a gold-mine of practical information.

Because I wanted to experiment and learn as much as possible about the Chinese sail I decided on an historical approach, and began with the simple rectangular fully battened lugsail, twice as high as it was wide, of the kind used on river junks and sampans and described such detail in Worcester’s The Junks and Sampans of the Yangtze .

Note: We may earn a commission when you buy through links on our site, at no extra cost to you. This doesn’t affect our editorial independence.

I used a very cheap material for the sail, a woven and laminated polyethylene sheet sold as tarpaulins by Bradshaws of York and found it so good that I still use it.

This simple sail, set vertically, is used on river boats to catch light airs coming over the river banks; I found it alright in such conditions but not in strong winds or choppy seas. My Mk 2 was similar but angled forward at the top, giving some improvement.

The Mk 3, a standard Hasler-McLeod design, was much better but suffered from the well known faults described by Hasler: lack of drive to windward especially in choppy seas and light airs, and a reluctance to tack in some conditions making it frequently necessary to wear ship.

Article continues below…

Bermudan rig vs Junk rig: which is best?

David Harding sets up a direct comparison between Junk- and Bermudan-rigged Splinters to find out how they handle

Sail boat rigs: the pros and cons of each popular design

Peter Poland looks at the history of popular rig designs and how the different types affect boat performance

Winning ways with a junk rig

David Harding looks at some of the latest developments in junk rig and meets the owners of different types of…

Somewhat disappointed, I was fortunate enough to come across two books which led me to a detailed study of the original rig of the Chinese ocean trading junks: The Last Sailors by Hollander & Mertes, and Setting Sails by Maitland & Wheeler, both of which contain many photographs including some taken in the last century, of such junk boats under sail.

With a long background in scientific research, I found the investigation increasingly absorbing. All the photographs show sails more or less side-on, eleven of which were measured in detail, scaled to similar overall sizes, and averaged.

There were usually five battens, less often six in which case the bottom two were averaged. There was a surprising degree of uniformity about the sails.

The boom and battens were all the same length to within 5% of the average, although the lengths of the battens seemed to decrease slightly upwards, but that may have been partly a perspective effect.

The length of the luff was equal to that of the yard, to within the surprisingly small error of only 8% on average, the ’dispersion’ of the individual sails about the average being less than 25% (that is to say the dimensions of more than two thirds of the individual sails lay between 0.75 and 1.25 of the average dimensions of them all.)

The luff was divided equally among the six panels formed by the five battens, boom and yard, to within the same sort of accuracy. The length of the leech of individual panels, however, increased progressively up the sail, which was fan-shaped.

Again, the dispersion about the average for the panels of the individual sails was only some 25%, the error (or uniformity) in the dimensions of the average sail being less than 10%.

It was apparent that there was some systematic pattern in the planform of the sail but it was some time before the obvious occurred to me; the Chinese who developed this sail would not even have had tape measures let alone digital calculators; what they would have had were lengths of rope which could be doubled or trebled to give simple fractions — ½, ⅓, ¼, ⅙, ⅛, and so on — of some standard length such as the boom.

I converted all the measurements into such fractions of the length of the boom, choosing the simplest fraction that was within the 10% uncertainty; that is to say, all the fractions chosen represent the average sail measurements to within 10%.

Fig. 1: The dimensions we finally adopted.

The result is shown in Fig. 1. and is self-explanatory, if rather remarkable, and merits close study. The luff and the yard are both two-thirds the length of the boom and battens; the length of the leech of the topmost (sixth) panel is half the boom, the next one down, a third, and the remaining four panels decrease by an eighth of that until the leech of the bottom panel is a half that of the fifth.

The total length of the leech is 1¾ times the length of the boom. Other useful features to note are the horizontal distance of the top of the yard from the vertical line of the luff which is a third of the length of the yard; the area of the sail is 10% greater than the square on the boom; the aspect is then 1.1; and on average only 8% of the width of the sail rig forward of the mast, Fig. 1 aiso shows the location of the centre of effort.

Having determined the shape of the Chinese ocean-going junk sail, the question then arose: “how did they make it?* The answer is found briefly but clearly in Worcester’s The Junks and Sampans of the Yangtze , p72.

I can do no better than use Worcester’s own words: “The rough dimensions of the sail having been determined, the yard, boom and battens are laid out on the ground out connected up to the bolt ropes so as to form a frame…

“The sailcloths are then laid over the framework, and the family set to work to join them together in inch-wide seams. Strengthening pieces are affixed where necessary.

“The sail is next sewn to the bolt ropes. Usually the sails are double roped, the sail being sewn to the inner rope, to which the outer one is secured by twine stops at irregular intervals of about 6 inches. The sail is next laced to a bamboo at head and foot, which in turn is lashed to the yard or boom at intervals of about 46 inches.”

My wife and I followed this procedure. The yard and boom (boom length 11½ft) were made from pine to the shapes and sections given by Hasler & McLeod.

The battens were made from 10ft lengths of garden bamboo, strapped together butt ends outward using self-adhesive strapping tape from B&Q (which show no signs of coming apart after a year and a half at sea).

Bolt ropes were 5mm matt polyester. The sail, cut to shape and hemmed round a thinner rope, was made from a Bradshaw’s tarpaulin.

The yard, battens and boom were roped together on the lawn, with dimensions along luff and leech as in Fig. 1. A ‘halyard’ was fastened from the centre of the yard to a stake; a downhaul, fastened one foot from the forward end of the boom, was pulled tight to another stake, so the frame was tightly stretched. The sail was then laced to the frame all round, and along the battens.

This procedure is fundamentally different from that of attaching the battens to the sail as in the Hasler-McLeod westernised junk boat. The framework of the Chinese sail has a certain cohesion — the luff and leech ropes providing some stiffness — so it moves and changes shape as the whole.

The battens don’t shake about loosely, spilling the wind out of the sail in a choppy sea. Look at the photographs in The Last Sailors and in Setting Sail of Chinese junk boats sailing close-hauled.

Clearly, the sails are not flat. The leech is curved giving twist in the sail and curvature to the upper part; the lower battens are flexible, giving curvature there; the individual panels all have some fullness in them.

I sought to achieve the same features. Each batten was made just sufficiently flexible to have a 10% depth of curvature at the maximum load its associated panels would transmit to it at a windspeed which made reefing desirable.

Some fullness was put in each panel by pressing it down into the grass while it was laced to the luff and leech ropes {stretched tight) and to the battens.

This creased the corners of the panels, with no detrimental effect. All the battens were sheeted, with spans across battens 5 and 4, 3 and 2, 1 and the boom. A luff hauling parral was put on the upper four battens, using spans across pairs in the usual Chinese way.

The tapered aluminium mast from Needlespar had been put through a foredeck strengthened with extra GRP, and stepped on the keel. The sail wag positioned so its Centre of Effort would be exactly on the same vertical line as that of the original Bermudian rig.

The result? A transformation in performance. She goes about surely in all winds, and is close winded, making 80 degrees between tacks, although in choppy seas it makes good faster to windward if sailed a bit freer, 50 degrees from the wind; but then so did the Bermudian rig.

The boat is a twin keeler with a 7ft beam and measures only 14ft on the waterline. I sailed several hundred miles with this rig in the late summer of 1989 (the whole project only began in May) in winds varying from the lightest airs to the top of Force 6 gusting 7, by which time I was down to two panels and still thrashing fast to windward in great clouds of spray. In all respects it outperforms the original Bermudian rig.

In this happy condition I ordered my Vertue from Bossom’s Boatyard at Oxford. It was delivered on 5th September, with a mast from Needlespar. The foredeck had been strengthened by the builders and a pilothouse built over the forward end of the cockpit. My wife again helped me to make the sail and rigging on the lawn.

In this case the length of the boom was 17ft (5.2m), the sail area 320ft2 (30m2). Installation of the deck partners and mast step, mast, sail and rigging, anchor, chain and windlass, seacocks and Lavac WC, and Seagull 170 outboard with remote control (no inboard engine), together with various odds and ends, were completed ten days later and the boat launched on the 19th September at Renfrew.

She was motored down the Clyde and sail was hoisted off Dumbarton with feelings of hope and trepidation; as usual I was singlehanded. This sail had also been positioned so the Centre of Effort would be on the same vertical line as the sailplan of the Bermudian rig originally designed for the Vertue by Laurent Giles and Partners.

In head minds rising from Force 4 to Force 6 (and continuous torrents of rain which made me thankful for the pilothouse) she tacked surely along the narrow buoyed channel, sailing fast close hauled in breaking seas, making 80° between tacks and was so well balanced on the helm that the boat would sail to windward without a hand on the tiller.

Fig. 2: The finished result

Later experience, in a variety of wind strengths and on all points of sailing, has confirmed the rig’a excellent behaviour. Fig. 2 is a photograph taken abeam, showing the planform of the sail.

In his book Sailing Theory and Practice , C. A. Marchaj writes, on p100: ”The rigging… in the original Chinese version could be used to adjust the camber of the sail within wide limits”, and on pp.107 to 116 draws attention to the need for sail twist.

In his Aero-Hydrodynamics of Sailing , p429, writing again about the Chinese rig, he notes that “in one respect the junk type rig is remarkable. This is the sheeting arrangement… an independent sail shape and sail incidence control system… Such an arrangement permits accurate changes in camber and sail twist independently of changes in incidence angles.”

The photographs of the old Chinese junk boats in the books referred to above, and of my own Vertue, show these possibilities clearly. Separate mainsheets for the upper and lower part of my sail may be worth trying too.

Some of my results complement those in the fascinating article by Group Captain Smith in Newsletter 20 of the Junk Rig Association . One last bit of useful information: bales of bamboo in long lengths can be obtained from Jacobs, Young & Westbury Ltd .

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Junk Rig: Pros & Cons

The Pros and cons of junk rig

Junk rig is thought to date back to about 300AD, when it propelled Chinese craft with sails of woven bamboo fortified by battens of bamboo or pine. It has been in use in China ever since, although it has also been appreciated by yachtsmen over the years, not least Joshua Slocum, who chose a three-masted junk rig for his 35ft (11m) ‘canoe’ Liberdade, in which he sailed 5,500 miles in 1888. Slocum considered it “the most convenient boat rig in the entire world”.

The real champion in the western world, however, was Blondie Hasler, who commissioned the heavily-modified, junk-rigged Nordic Folkboat Jester in 1953 and sailed her in the first OSTAR in 1960. Other notable junk rig sailors have included Bill King (Galway Blazer) and the ascetic Roger Taylor, who sails his junk-rigged Corribee Mingming to extreme northern latitudes. It’s also known as ‘Chinese lug rig’ and generally thought to be the preserve of cranks.

It is, in fact, a singular rig with great qualities, particularly to the short-handed cruising sailor, and is overlooked only by the ignorant. The ‘bible’ on the subject is Practical Junk Rig by HG Hasler and JK McLeod.

1 Very easy raising, lowering and reefing 

2 Soft gybing due to the sail area before the mast

3 No flogging as the sail is rigid

4 No standing rigging, meaning no whistling in the shrouds, and greater simplicity

5 Great all-round visibility

6 Good ability off the wind or before it without the need for extra downwind sails

1 More expensive and complex to build/retrofit 

2 Not great to windward in light airs

3 To some, the unusual appearance 

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Sailing AUKLET

~ small sailboat cruising and related thoughts.

junk rig, but which one??

11 Wednesday Jun 2014

Posted by shemaya in Junk Rig , the boat

≈ Leave a comment

One of the biggest challenges in doing a junk rig conversion, for me, was the very beginning: deciding which design/sailplan to follow. Reading up, there are a number of choices, and then once a particular design is selected, there are more choices, including sailcloth, batten material and method of attachment, and specifics of overall rigging, as well as the question of camber, which is the curved shape that can be built into a sail, to help with going upwind. My process of resolving those questions went on for years, literally. Now that the selections have been made it’s quite a relief, and it seems time to share what I’ve learned about the deciding factors.

The book Practical Junk Rig, by Hasler and McLeod, provides an overview of the possibilities, and the website junkrigassociation.org has descriptions of those possibilities and more, including recent developments that have come up since Practical Junk Rig was first published in 1987. For a beginning on diagrams and photos, see: http://www.junkrigassociation.org/sailplans_early_days and http://www.junkrigassociation.org/sailplans_current

For a while I thought, oh I’ll just copy what Dave and Anke (at triloboats.com) have on their current boat… until it turned out that I would need something close to a 30 foot mast. Oh well! Then it looked like the Reddish rig, with its traditional character and proven, low-tech possibilities, could be a good fit. For a while there was a detour, and I was intrigued with the split junk rig, designed by Slieve McGalliard – who also did that nice article about yuloh design. I’m still intrigued, but the mainmast on AUKLET is too far forward for that one. Along the way it was pointed out to me (thank you Dave) that the most sail area for the shortest mast would come from the Reddish rig, and making low mast height a priority, in the end I came back and settled on that one.

Things are always so much clearer after the fact, and I now realize that the straightest line through junk rig decision-making (at least for me) is indeed the mast question. Mast height rules out some junk rig designs and enables others, and mast position does the same. Some people change the location of the mast on their boat, but I didn’t want to get into that. With AUKLET, having the mizzen mast provided some room for adjustment as far as location of sail area, so except for considerations with the split junk rig, mast height was really the deciding factor for the overall design. Now here we are, with a Reddish rig in progress.

Then there is the question of size, once the shape of the sails has been decided. Determining sail size is related to mast height, desire for sail area (and what the hull can carry), and locations of booms and sheets, as well as the relationship of the forces on the sails to the forces on the hull. Some tinkering goes into figuring this all out.

In the design process, it’s important to keep the combined center of effort – the “balancing point” where the wind pushes, for both sails – in roughly the same place as for the original rig. Sorting that out for this project involved starting with a scale drawing of the hull and masts, and then making cardboard cutouts, to scale, of potential sails. (It’s probably important that the cardboard is something like what comes inside shirts, and is not corrugated, so there’s no question of uneven weight distribution within layers.) Balancing the cardboard cutout on a pin serves to roughly locate the center of effort for each sail. Then the combined center of effort can be determined by first working out the square footage of each sail (counting squares inside a scale drawing on graph paper helps with figuring this without using big geometry skills.) Next comes drawing a line between the two centers of effort, and measuring along that line proportionally, related to the ratio of the areas of the two sails; this yields the location of the combined center of effort.

We had the original combined center of effort for AUKLET from the plans for the Glasshouse Chebacco, but you could find this from a scale drawing of the original sails, if you needed to, by making another set of cardboard cutouts from the original sail design. We actually did this for the Peep Hen a few years ago, though never took it further than the cardboard stage. However you get it, it’s handy to have the originally designed center of effort so that you can make the center of effort for the new sails line up with the original.

In the end, for the AUKLET junk rig design, Theo and I made an entire array of sizes of cardboard cutout sails, to try out the different possibilities both by eye and for calculated balance. It was pretty entertaining – it felt like being a kid with paper dolls cut out from the Sunday newspaper, but way more fun! Because of the yawl rig, when the potential mainsail pulled the combined center of effort too far forward it was possible to increase the size of the mizzen to compensate. We had everything from a 10 foot boom on the mainsail up to a 14 foot boom, and eventually settled on 13 feet, and a 6 foot boom for the mizzen. (Boom length determines measurements for the rest of the sail.) The sail area for this final arrangement is 175 square feet for the main, and 37 square feet for the mizzen. This is more than the original design, which was 149 and 27 square feet, respectively. Phil Bolger, designer of this boat, used to write about that nobody just sails nowadays, so it’s more appropriate to design sail area for those who motor in light winds, and the Glasshouse Chebacco rig reflects this approach. Myself being a bit of a throwback, as far as the motor question, increasing the sail area has seemed appropriate to the actual use of the boat.

Still, I’ve gone back and forth on the sail area question, and my thinking is continuing to develop, and to change back and forth, on this subject (see writings by Sven Yrvind for reasons for smaller sails). While I was swung toward the “wishing for more sail area” side of things, the time for an actual decision arrived, and now we have a really big sail! Necessitating a mast the height of the original Chebacco design, at 19 feet. These last two years I’ve been sailing with the borrowed short mainmast, which is 16 feet. I like that a lot, especially for things like squeaking underneath closed drawbridges, and the relative ease of stepping and unstepping the mast. Now that the junk sails are built, and the new taller mast is coming soon, I’m committed, but my thoughts keep going back to the benefits of a short mast and smaller sail. It’s a little late for a change, at this stage! It’ll be fascinating to see how the increased sail area feels – worth the compromise of height, weight and bulk? For extra headway in tiny wind? And just how much extra headway? I have no great need for speed, but reliable movement along the shore when the wind is minimal may turn out to be worth the trade-offs.

Regardless of the issue of mast height for the new sail, something had to be done about the overall mainmast situation. The one that I borrowed from the Peep Hen (a much smaller boat) is tapered aluminum, 3 inches in diameter at the base, with 1/4 inch wall thickness. It’s had a good deal of strain and flexing, over these last two years, and there are issues about work-hardening, with aluminum masts, that can lead to breaking. It’s possible that everything is fine, but I haven’t felt confident. As near as I can tell from material on the Junk Rig Association site, appropriate, somewhat conservative scantlings for an unstayed aluminum mast for this situation are 4 inch diameter and 1/4 inch wall thickness in the lower part of the mast, with the diameter tapering higher up. The best I’ve been able to come up with is an aluminum flagpole that is 4 inches in diameter with 3/16 inch wall thickness, tapering above 11 feet to about 2 inches in diameter at the top. Five inches in diameter at the base would be considerably stronger, but won’t fit in the existing partners, and they would be complicated to change. As it is, I think that the 4 inch version will certainly be fine in the early part of its life; if I really love the rig, there is probably another mast change somewhere in the future.

Other big decisions have been sailcloth, and the camber issue. Both of these questions completely stopped my process for a long time also. I originally wanted to go with acrylic sailcloth, such as Sunbrella. This would mean expecting stretch, and because of that, the sail would more closely resemble traditional junk sails in Asia, but would still avoid the mildew issues of cotton. This approach would have been taking a chance, but I rather liked the idea of the adventure. Then Suzanne, with a good practical eye for details of a question, looked at my sample of acrylic fabric and asked “how heavy is that going to be when it’s soaking wet?” That moment was the somewhat sad end of the acrylic idea, but I’m really glad that the question came up before I had a giant, soaking wet sail on my hands, too heavy to move. Maybe not a problem at first, when the fabric still had all its water shedding treatments intact, but surely as time went on.

The other thing that happened about sails is that I came upon a sailmaker with some experience with building “Western” junk sails, on this side of the Atlantic! This would be Stuart Hopkins, at Dabbler Sails. (You can see his work at http://www.dabblersails.com .) Commiserating together on the question of fabric, and on the question of camber, we settled on Dacron sailcloth, and a very small amount of camber in the lower four panels of each sail (stated for the record, Stuart heartily advocated for more camber – if this flatter design doesn’t work out so well, it’s entirely my responsibility!) Above the lower four panels, the top two panels are left completely flat, for heavy weather. It’s an experiment, all the way around, and we’ll see how it goes.

The argument for camber has to do with upwind sailing ability, which has generally been not so good for Western versions of junk rigs with flat sails. I’m intrigued by the theory that “fanned” sails, such as the Reddish rig, also develop camber as they twist. One can opt for an assortment of control lines, following traditional Asian practice, to make adjustments for optimal performance. That does assume that you know what you’re doing… Or are willing to take quite a while to begin to figure it out. But it does seem possible, and I’m looking forward to trying.

Along the way in the planning/design process, I’ve also given up on the idea of bamboo battens, going with the highly recommended aluminum tubing version, in pockets. There is a source of construction-quality (as opposed to garden quality) bamboo in eastern Massachusetts, and I was hopeful for a while. But it turns out that, issue #1, there’s a lot of finish work involved in bamboo battens – wooden plugs for the ends, and varnish, and then, the consideration that really sealed it, issue #2: that the traditional way to make bamboo battens work out well (preventing splitting) is to soak them in seawater for three weeks before beginning the finishing process. (Thank you Lesley, at http://www.huntingjunks.org ) Here we are in Holyoke, about 80 miles from the nearest seawater. It could’ve been done, but overall there is the question of exactly WHEN we would like this project to get on the water… So aluminum battens it is, and they are in fact almost complete at this writing.

That’s about it for the major design questions. There are just reams of excellent information available at http://www.junkrigassociation.org and quite a bit of it is accessible to nonmembers. Joining is low cost, and opens up all the rest, including PDFs of all past newsletters. The book Practical Junk Rig, by Hasler and McLeod, is also loaded with outstanding, detailed information. This includes everything from junk rig details, to exactly how to go about making a mast out of a tree from the forest – a real mast, for a big boat. It’s an expensive book, but encyclopedic, in what it covers. (Nope, just like always, not receiving anything for any of the business, organization or book mentions in this post.)

Beyond the design question, there’s the concrete progress. Presently, the sails are complete, and here; yards have been built, epoxied, and painted; the battens are cut to length, and wooden end plugs (turned, grooved, epoxied, and painted) are ready to be caulked in; a belaying pin collar and belaying pins have been made for the mizzen mast, as a place to fasten the zillion lines for the mizzen sail; and mast hardware, loads of line, and assorted other necessary bits, are accumulating in corners. On it goes!

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Rostov-on-Don is deemed to have been founded in December 1749, when construction began on the Temernitskaya Customs House in the lower reaches of the Don, on the left bank of the River Temernik. Soon after, a berth, a storehouse, a quarantine house and garrison barracks were added to the customs house. A port was built later, and for a while it would be the only Russian port in the south, handling all trade with the countries around the Black, Aegean and Mediterranean Seas. September 23, 1761, Elizabeth I decreed for a new fortress to be built here, which would be christened St. Dimitry of Rostov Fortress, and would define the location of the future historic centre of Rostov-on-Don. The St. Dimitry of Rostov Fortress had lost its military value by the beginning of the nineteenth century as the Russian frontier was now far removed from those parts. In August 1807, the fortress was designated as uyezd town – the administrative centre of a county – and a few government institutions were moved there from Taganrog. Rostov changed its name a few times. First it was shortened to Rostov Fortress, then just Rostov, and finally expanded to Rostov-on-Don so as to avoid confusion with another Rostov up north. The Rostov Fortress was demolished in 1835. The ramparts were leveled, and the moats filled, giving the town a nearly two-fold surplus of land. Rostov-on-Don began to expand quickly, getting paved streets, the telegraph, a water supply system as well as other amenities. In fact, Rostov-on-Don received the telephone before Moscow did. Rostov’s railway station, built in 1875, was the biggest in Russia at the time, and Rostov became the key transport hub on the Vladikavkaz railway. Rostov started using electric lighting at the end of the nineteenth century, and trams started running in the city in the early 1900s. Russia’s first automatic telephone switchboard for 6,000 numbers was installed in Rostov-on-Don in 1929. This was the first public switchboard: the very first such facility was built in Moscow in the early 1920s, but served only the leaders of the Soviet state, and was not available to the public. Today the thriving city of Rostov-on-Don (Russian spelling Rostov-na-Donu) and its 1 million inhabitants is the capital and administrative center of Rostov oblast of Russia. The city is also the capital of South Federal District of the Russian Federation from 2000. It is standing on the banks of the Don River about 46 km from the Azov Sea. Rostov-on-Don is a major railway and highway junction of Southern Russia. There is also an international airport in the city. In addition to the COupe Mondiale World Accordion Championships, several matches of FIFA World Cup 2018 will be held in Rostov-on-Don.   The city offers many attractions, including: Don River Lookout, Beregovaya ulitsa. Often referred to as "The Enbankment", visitors and locals alike will enjoy a stroll along the riverside. More than a picturesque view, the Embankment is lined with several restaurants, statues, lighted fountains, and a few shops; It is the center of nightlife in Rostov. Several steamboats are docked along the bank, and tickets for hour-long excursions can be purchased at the ticket booths on location for about 200 rubles. An Obelisk at Teatralnaya square, Teatralnaya ploshad. Affectionally dubbed "Stella", by locals, the obelisk appears as a winged tower, across the street from Maxim Gorky Drama Theatre. As one approaches the obelisk, inscriptions honoring the arts, science, agriculture, military, and education can be seen at the base. On the south side of the obelisk, the golden lady (Stella) hovers between the wings. Pushkin Street. Visitors may enjoy a stroll down this highly ornate, landscaped boulevard, lined with thousands of trees, restaurants, food kiosks, flowers, benches, statues, and memorials. A favorite sight near the eastern end of the boulevard are the wrought-iron globes, depicting scenes from Pushkin's most popular works. Pushkin Street leads into both the City Park (Park Gorkovo) and October Revolution Park, where visitors will see more meticulously cultivated garden beds and other diversions such as amusement parks and souvenir kiosks. Underground Tile Work, While perhaps not the most impressive sight, tile mosaics (depicting scenes of Soviet life, found on the walls of underground street crossings ("perekhody"), make for a momentary distraction. Though mosaics are found under several street crossings on Bolshaya Sadovaya Street, the most beautiful and well-maintained mosaics are under the intersection of Boshaya Sadovaya and Buddyonoskiy Prospect. Note: Appreciate the tile work as you walk; do not stop and stare, or you will block other pedestrians. Public Parks: Many statues and monuments not listed here can be found in almost every public park and major street of Rostov. Rostov State Opera and Ballet, (134 Bolshaya Sadovaya Street), Rostov has a nice Musical Theatre,which is not located far from the Maxim Gorky Drama Theatre. Most operas are sung in an original language. Ballets are exquisitely choreographed and are invariably accompanied by extravagant sets. Refreshments are almost always sold in the lobby during intermission (for an inflated price). Most Rostov locals will dress formally (but practically) while attending a ballet or opera. $10-$40 / 400-1500 rubles. Rostov-on-Don ZooPark This zoo is well worth a visit, especially if one is accompanied by children. As one of the largest in Russia, the ZooPark is home to a staggering variety of animals, including giraffes, camels, polar bears, falcons, reptiles, fish, and simians. Entrance costs only 80 rubles for adults and 40 rubles for children. To get there, take the #6 Bus from the Central Rinok and exit at the stop "ZooPark". Shopping at the Central Rinok, "Rinok" might be translated at "bazaar" or "farmer's market". This massive outdoor-and-indoor assortment of tiny shops and booths can be both exciting and intimidating for Westerners, who are unaccustomed to either haggling/ bargaining or being yelled at by shopkeepers. Shopping at a Rinok is one of the most memorable experiences that Russia has to offer for an adventurous North American, so don't be put off by the different feel of things. The majority of the Rinok is devoted to food and clothing, but you can buy anything here. Yes, anything (though it might take a while to find). Even if one does not speak the language, shopping at the Rinok is far preferable to shopping at the nearby, overpriced, department stores. Just let the money do the talking. The Rinok is located downtown, on Stanislavskovo Street, just four blocks south of the central intersection of Bolshaya Sadovaya Street and Buddyonovskiy Prospect. Maxim Gorky Academic Drama Theatre. (1 Teatralnaya Ploshad), [5] Despite the name, this theatre is a venue not only for dramatic plays, but also comedies and concerts. The theatre is located on the eastern end of Bolshaya Sadovaya Street, directly across the street from the monument known as "Stella". Even throughout the summer months (when other theatres may be closed), Maxim Gorky Theatre still operates. Prices will vary depending on the show, but tickets are generally inexpensive when compared to other large theatres. Stroll Through October Revolution Park, More than just a wooded area, this park is filled with things to do: amusement park rides, ping-pong tables, and a petting zoo, just to name a few. Stroll Through the City Park (45 Bolshaya Sadovaya Street), Sometimes called "Park Gorkovo", this park is filled with beautiful flower beds, a full amusement park, restaurants, and souvenir kiosks. Rostov-on-don Tourism Things To Do in Rostov-on-don Rostov-on-don Itineraries Rostov-on-don Hotels Rostov-on-don Trip Planner Plan your customized day by day trip plan for Rostov-on-don. Choose from various experinces categories as adventure, romantic and family and kids friendly for your trip using using Rostov-on-don trip planner. THINGS TO DO HOW TO REACH TOP RESTAURANTS Krasnodar Trip Planner You are using an outdated browser. Please upgrade your browser to improve your experience. Passover Programs 2025 Passover Programs Bahamas Passover Programs in Brazil Passover Programs in Canada Passover Programs Caribbean Passover Programs in Colombia Passover Programs in Costa Rica Passover Programs in Croatia Passover Programs in Cyprus Passover in the Czech Republic Passover Programs in France Passover Programs in Georgia Passover Programs in Greece Passover Programs in Italy Passover Programs in Portugal Passover Programs in Romania Passover Programs in Spain Passover Programs in Switzerland Passover Programs in the United Kingdom Passover Programs in Israel Passover Programs in Mexico Passover Programs in Morocco Passover Programs in Panama Passover Programs in South Africa Passover Programs in Thailand Passover in Dubai & The UAE Passover Programs in Arizona Passover Programs in California Passover Programs in Colorado Passover Programs in Connecticut Passover Programs in Florida Passover Programs in Hawaii Passover Programs in Maryland Passover Programs in Nevada Passover Programs in New Jersey Passover Programs in New York Passover Programs in Utah Passover Programs in Vietnam Kosher Sukkot Programs Kosher Summer Vacations 2024 Kosher Cruises Kosher Safaris Kosher / Heritage Tours Kosher Villa & Apartment Rentals Kosher Rosh Hashanah Kosher Winter Sun Vacations Kosher Ski & Winter Vacations Shavuot Programs Kosher & Jewish in... Kosher & Jewish Near me Kosher Eateries Kosher & Jofy* Hotels Kosher & Jofy* Rentals Kosher Policy Synagogues & Minyanim Update The Directory Shabbat Times Kosher Travel Digest Destinations Blog Passover Program Blog Rostov-on-Don Are you Looking for Kosher Eatery or Jewish POI near you? About rostov-on-don. Rostov-on-Don is a port city and the administrative centre of Rostov Oblast and the Southern Federal District of Russia. From ancient times, the area around the mouth of the Don River has held cultural and commercial importance. Ancient indigenous inhabitants included the Scythian, Sarmat, and Savromat tribes. It was the site of Tanais, an ancient Greek colony, Fort Tana, under the Genoese and Fort Azak in the time of the Ottoman Empire. The Best Of Rostov-on-Don Are you a rostov-on-don kosher establishment or tour operator, jewish history, poi & kosher establishments in rostov-on-don. Rostov is the capital of Southern Russia, with a population of close to 15,000 Jews. Prior to WWII it was a thriving hub of Jewish life. Tragically, during the war it was also the site of the worst mass execution of Jews in Russia, where over 20,000 Jews perished over the course of two horrific days. Today the community is springing back to life, with one of the most active youth groups in Russia, a Jewish day school, an overnight camp, a dynamic women's club, a busy humanitarian aid service, and new programs every year. {{model.locWeather.today.temp_c}} C, {{model.locWeather.today.temp_f}} F {{dayTemp.day}} {{dayTemp.date}} {{dayTemp.temp_f}} F {{dayTemp.temp_c}} C What Is *JOFY? JOFY, or "Jewish Observant Friendly" Establishments are lodging establishments offering special services for Jewish Observant guests such as Shabbat meals, accommodation on lower floors and regular keys for the rooms. It can also be a NON KOSHER establishment located in walking distance from the local Shul, community or kosher restaurants area. Please note - *JOFY does NOT mean that KOSHER food is served on the premises! {{field.title}} Advertising Terms Passover Programs Programs Reviews Privacy Policy Terms of Use Lets Be Social Totally Jewish Travel on Facebook Totally Jewish Travel on Twitter Totally Jewish Travel on Instagram        JOIN THE JRA JRA & Members' Projects JRA Website Projects Other Projects & Events Photos - Junks Old and New Sailplans - Current Sailplans - Early Origami method of making cambered sails SWAP, SELL or BUY (P) HALL OF FAME Email Password to buy or sell a junk rigged boat to buy and sell junk rig components, e.g. masts, spars, sails, cloth, blocks, rope to buy, sell or give away items of marine equipment for anything else that you might use a yacht club noticeboard for Anonymous member Anonymous member Anonymous member Anonymous member Anonymous member Anonymous member Anonymous member (Administrator) Anonymous member Anonymous member (Administrator) Anonymous member (Administrator) 120 IMAGES 12 Junk-rigged sailboats ideas 1987 Colvin Gazelle Steel Schooner What's in A Rig? The Junk Rig Used Top Hat 25 Mk3 Junk-rigged for Sale Junk Rigged Cruising Sailboat. Editorial Photography A junk rigged sailboat with tanbark colored sails participates in a VIDEO Junk Rigged 34ft Sailing Yacht Electric Hoist (revised) introduction to the Junk Rig Part 3 Complete JUNK boat restoration Junk rig sailing on a Paceship 23 Junk Rig Yachts Do Sail COMMENTS Junk rig The Keying was a Chinese ship that employed a junk sailing rig. Scale model of a Tagalog outrigger ship with junk sails from Manila, 19th century. The junk rig, also known as the Chinese lugsail, Chinese balanced lug sail, or sampan rig, is a type of sail rig in which rigid members, called battens, span the full width of the sail and extend the sail forward of the mast. Here's why to sail in an engineless junk-rigged schooner Bob Groves and his wife Kathy share their experience of sailing a junk-rigged dory schooner, Easy Go, from Canada to the Caribbean and back. They explain why they chose this rig for its comfort, performance and simplicity, and how they use a Chinese yuloh as auxiliary power. SAILS & RIGGING: Junk Rigs For Cruisers Liberdade performed quite well, covering a total of 5,500 miles (from Brazil to the United States) in 52 sailing days, with daily runs as high as 180 miles. Afterwards, Slocum pronounced the junk rig "the most convenient boat rig in the whole world.". Joshua Slocum and family aboard his junk-rigged dory Liberdade. Voyager explains junk rig choice A sailor shares his reasons for buying a junk-rigged schooner, a simple and comfortable sail plan for voyaging. He describes the history, design, and performance of the Chinese balanced-lug rig and its advantages for shorthanded sailing. The Junk Rig Association The JRA (Junk Rig Association), formed in 1980, aims to further the development of the junk rig and to create an international community of people interested in such rigs to share experience and ideas. ... Junk rig conversion of foldable rowing boat. 29 Aug 2024 10:59 • Anonymous member. For sale: Colvic Salty Dog 27 bilge keels, many extras ... Junk Rig (JR) for beginners Junk Rig for Beginners. by Arne Kverneland. (Ver. 20141029) The following is an explanation of the basics of the junk rig (JR). It is aimed for sailors with some experience with other rigs; Bermudian, Gaff, Sprit or Lug, but who are new to this one. Johanna, 29ft, 48sqm sail Samson, 49ft, 70 + 37 sqm sails Malena, 23ft, 32sqm sail. The Junk Rig Association Explore various types of junk rigs for sailboats, designed by different sailors and builders. Learn about the features, benefits and challenges of each rig, and see examples of sailplans and photos. Sail boat rigs: the pros and cons of each popular design Learn about the history and benefits of junk rig, a type of sail plan with full length battens and no boom. Junk rig enthusiasts share their experiences and tips for sailing offshore and single-handed. What's in A Rig? The Junk Rig What's in a Rig Series #3. There's probably no rig more fascinating than the junk rig. Long before Columbus' time, early as the 10 th century, the Chinese were making their way through the oceans with a rig that has amazingly stood the test of the time. There are many who feel that this very old but very innovative sail plan is superior to the more popular and ubiquitous sloop rig and ... Introduction to the Junk Rig Part 4 Part 4 of the Junk Rig Association's "Introduction to the Junk Rig" series deals with the sailing characteristics of junk rig boats, especially single masted... Junk Rig advantages and disadvantages Junk is a boat, Junk Rig is, well, the traditional rig of a Junk boat. A Junk BOAT, is a classic Chinese sailing vessel of ancient origin, still widely found in many Asian countries. Junk can have up to five usually unstayed masts. The square - ish sails can be made of a number of materials. Old sacking, woven reeds, various cloths and modern ... The Junk Rig Association Chapter 7, Rigging the sail. https://bit.ly/3kjEcgc. Other technical articles: 1 The Cambered junk sail , ver 20071228-1.pdf (..the short version..) Arne's Chain Calculator, ver 20120519.pdf. Junk Rig for Beginners pdf [987 Kb] English French. Batten stagger in a junk rig with cambered panels.pdf. 20091119 Camber, the Johanna way.pdf COLVIN GAZELLE: A Junk-Rigged Cruising Icon American shipwright and boat designer Tom Colvin, who has long championed both metal construction and junk rigs on cruising sailboats, has designed about 300 small ships and boats over the course of a career that has now spanned about 70 years.He designed the original Gazelle for himself and his family to cruise aboard way back in 1967. She has since proven to be both his most successful and ... Junk boat design explained: How this ancient sailplan still performs Facing retirement with angina and a persistent back injury, I was persuaded by John Campbell's book Easier Rigs for Safer Cruising that a junk rig would be the thing for my intended new boat, a Vertue; but to gain experience I first decided to convert my existing Leisure 17.. I bought Jock McLeod's design folios, and in due course Hasler & McLeod's Tactical Junk Rig Design. Junk Rig: Pros & Cons The 'bible' on the subject is Practical Junk Rig by HG Hasler and JK McLeod. Pros. 1 Very easy raising, lowering and reefing. 2 Soft gybing due to the sail area before the mast. 3 No flogging as the sail is rigid. 4 No standing rigging, meaning no whistling in the shrouds, and greater simplicity. 5 Great all-round visibility. Junk (ship) A wide ship with a single sail is depicted in the Xi'an mirror (after the 9th or 12th century). [10] [11] Eastern lug sail, which used battens and is commonly known as "junk rig", was likely not Chinese in origin: The oldest depiction of a battened junk sail comes from the Bayon temple at Angkor Thom, Cambodia. junk rig, but which one?? With AUKLET, having the mizzen mast provided some room for adjustment as far as location of sail area, so except for considerations with the split junk rig, mast height was really the deciding factor for the overall design. Now here we are, with a Reddish rig in progress. Then there is the question of size, once the shape of the sails has been ... The Junk Rig Association The pictures below are 'thumbnails' of photographs which have been uploaded by members to show their boat or details of her junk sail/s or rigging. The idea is to provide a quick way of seeing: the huge range of boats (mono-hulls and multihulls) that can be built for or converted to junk, and. the variety of rigs, from single sail to schooner ... 2016 Coupe Mondiale, Confederation Internationale des Accordeonistes CIA Stroll Through the City Park (45 Bolshaya Sadovaya Street), Sometimes called "Park Gorkovo", this park is filled with beautiful flower beds, a full amusement park, restaurants, and souvenir kiosks. 2016 Coupe Mondiale, Rostov on Don, Russia, The Confederation Internationale des Accodeonistes (CIA) are the organisers of the annual Coupe Mondiale ... Rostov-on-don Tourism Rostov-on-don Tourism, Russia: Get yourself acquainted with Rostov-on-don and demographics of Rostov-on-don, culture, people in Rostov-on-don, currency, best attractions and more with this free travel guide. Use this information to plan your trip to Rostov-on-don Rostov-on-Don Jewish & Kosher Guide 2024: Kosher Info in Rostov-on-Don Rostov-on-Don Kosher & Jewish Guide, Vacations & Trips: the biggest web guide for Kosher Restaurants & Eateries, Hotels, Vacation Rentals, Synagogues, Mikvahs, Minyans / Shuls, Shabbat Meals, Rooms & Hospitality, Chabad - for the Jewish Observant Traveler in Rostov-on-Don Russia The Junk Rig Association to buy or sell a junk rigged boat. to buy and sell junk rig components, e.g. masts, spars, sails, cloth, blocks, rope. to buy, sell or give away items of marine equipment. for anything else that you might use a yacht club noticeboard for. Please use the name of the item in the 'topic', and precede the title with 'For Sale' or 'Wanted'. Rostov-on-Don Historic Sites & Districts to Visit (Updated 2024) Victoria Peak (The Peak) Tkalčićeva Street Lindos By Night Tiger Kingdom - Chiang Mai Corson's Inlet State Park Caverns of Sonora Zouk Nightclub Amphitheatre de Pula The Culinary Institute of America Taroko National Park Monterey, Carmel and 17-Mile Drive: Full Day Tour from SF The 'Puszta' horse show Lajosmizse Cotopaxi and Quilotoa 2-Day 1-Night departures everyday Half-Day Trip to ... catamaran gulet motorboat powerboat riverboat sailboat trimaran yacht