World Renowned Reputation - The UK's Premier Boat Cover Maker
WORLD RENOWNED REPUTATION THE UK’S PREMIER BOAT COVER MAKER
What is a Sprayhood?
A sprayhood, also known as a dodger, is a protective cover designed to offer essential protection to both the open hatch and crew on sailing yachts. Supported by a sturdy 2 or 3-bar stainless steel frame, it features clear window panels at the front to maintain optimal visibility. The primary purpose of a sprayhood is to shield the crew from wind, rain, and sea spray, whilst offering protection to the open hatch ensuring a safer and more comfortable sailing experience.
At Tecsew, our sprayhoods are custom-designed using advanced 3D CAD technology for a perfect fit tailored to your boat. Made from durable Sunbrella fabrics, these sprayhoods provide excellent protection against harsh weather while enhancing the aesthetic appeal of your yacht. Our sprayhoods can be further customised with additional features, such as welded grab bars for enhanced safety, and are available in various colours and patterns to match your yacht’s style.
Explore our detailed Sprayhood brochure Sprayhood brochure for more inspiration and discover the endless possibilities to enhance your boating adventures. Contact our expert team today to discuss your needs and transform your boat with the ultimate blend of style, functionality, and protection.
Discover superior protection with Tecsew’s custom Sprayhoods
Crafted with precision using Sunbrella fabrics to ensure lasting durability and performance. Our bespoke designs, tailored through advanced 3D CAD technology, offer the perfect fit for your yacht, enhancing both aesthetics and functionality.
Sprayhoods for Yachts
Click image to view our sprayhoods.
We specialise in the design and manufacturing of Sprayhoods for yachts. Browse our FREE Sprayhood Brochure to see examples of Tecsew’s yacht Sprayhoods. This will help allow you to merge your design ideas with examples we have on show, resulting in the perfect Sprayhood for your boat.
Explore our wide range of Sprayhood options in the Sprayhood Gallery , where customization meets innovation. Whether you prefer the convenience of our standard items or desire bespoke modifications with optional extras, we’re here to turn your vision into reality. Start your journey with a consultation from our Sprayhood experts today, and bring your unique design to life, perfectly tailored to your yacht’s specifications.
Crafted from premium Sunbrella Fabrics, our Sprayhoods offer a vast selection of colours and patterns, ensuring a perfect match for your yacht’s aesthetic while providing exceptional protection against harsh elements. Elevate your yacht’s protection and style with our custom-designed Sprayhoods and optional Sprayhood Backdrops for enhanced durability.
Customised Sprayhoods and Recovers
We use modern 3-dimensional computer-aided design technology (3D CAD) to ensure all Sprayhoods are designed to your specific requirements. Our team of experts are at hand to give you the best advice. If you would like to change your existing Sprayhood frame shape speak with one of our experts. They can suggest new design ideas, it could be as simple as just adjusting the current frame configuration.
Create Your Perfect Boat Sprayhood with Tecsew
Harnessing advanced 3D CAD technology, Tecsew tailors each Sprayhood to meet your personal design preferences. Our experts are ready to guide you through customizing or revamping your Sprayhood’s frame for a perfect fit and enhanced aesthetics. Experience the fusion of protection and style with our bespoke Sprayhood solutions and explore the myriad of customisation options available.
Let our dedicated team assist you in enhancing your yacht with well-designed protection and elegance. Contact us now!
Already have a Sprayhood that you wish to add to? Check out our Sprayhood Customisation and Extras section and find all types of ideas.
Have a question? We are happy to help!
02392 556 548
Tecsew Ltd, Unit E3 Eagle Building Daedalus Park, Daedalus Drive Lee-on-the-Solent, Hants, PO13 9FX
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Quality Sprayhoods supplied and fitted in the southwest
Here at Armada Sails we supply, fit and service sprayhoods for all types of traditional and modern boats. These must-have item for any boat are perfect to help keep the cockpit dry and comfortable, whether its crashing through big waves out at sea or simply keeping the rain out in the marina.
All of our quality sprayhoods are made-to-order using high quality and durable fabrics. With a wide range of colours available, we can ensure to match existing canvas work and find that colour that really suits your needs.
Our High Quality Sprayhoods
- All our sprayhoods include:
- Onboard patterns are taken to ensure exact production
- Quality UV resistant window material comes as standard
- Sprayhood fixings made of quality marine grade stainless steel or plastic
- Where viable we reuse your existing boat fittings (unless the position is unsuitable)
- Manufactured to fit your existing frame or new frame can be supplied
- Frame bar pockets come zipped for ease of removal
- Hood can be tensioned at the rear with integral webbing straps
- Breathable and waterproof fabric
- Optional extras include aft grab rails which can also be leathered on request
Sprayhoods require exact measurements and patterning which is why here at Armada sails we are here to help every step of the way. With specifications and use discussed in detail and patterning carried out on board a new Sprayhood couldn’t be easier. Just give us a call or email to discuss what it is your looking for.
Some of our recently completed Sprayhood work
For a free no obligation quote, call us on 07455 019 643 or send us an email.
Practical Boat Owner
- Digital edition
How to make your own sprayhood or bimini as a DIY project
- March 30, 2020
Ann Berry describes how an industrial sewing machine could save you thousands of pounds if your canvaswork is worn out and you want to make your own sprayhood or bimini.
Sun, sea and general weathering had degraded the stitching, attachment points and external canvas work on Aderyn Glas , our Moody Eclipse 33. It was time to replace it all: sprayhood, bimini and bridging piece (that joins the sprayhood and bimini together for use in port) but the cost would run into thousands!
My domestic sewing machine would not have the power or ability to handle the weight and layers of fabric required for items such as a sprayhood or bimini. An industrial machine would be required – they’re much larger, heavier and robust than domestic machines. They have a separate external motor and a metal foot treadle and are set into their own large sewing table, so do take up a lot of room. I store mine in the garage and wheel it into the house when sewing.
The industrial sewing machine has a very large throat compared to a domestic one. This is the space from the sewing needle to the upright control column, allowing for much larger volumes of material, which are also supported by the large table.
The machine I chose was a Highlead: a heavy-duty top and bottom feed lockstitch with a walking foot. A walking foot has teeth on the underside which synchronise with the teeth on the machine gripping both top and bottom layers when sewing. It feeds them evenly through the machine, and is important, for example, with sprayhoods when zips, webbing, Velcro and various edging materials are being sandwiched on or between the canvas layers.
Price was a major factor for me as industrial machines can cost thousands of pounds, even second-hand. Mine cost £500 and was manufactured in 2005 so I felt that I could do the work and even recoup some cost by selling it later if required. Some popular brands are Typical, Brother, Pfaff, Juki and Singer. Machines can be researched through ebay but your local industrial sewing machine company would be a better bet as servicing and backup would be part of the package.
The main items I needed to replace on Aderyn Glas were the dodgers, sprayhood, bimini and bridging piece (this stretches between the sprayhood and bimini to from a solid canopy over the cockpit when in port or anchored, so is fully detachable).
Cost: Sewing machine = £500. Materials for sprayhood and bimini = £534 See also Ann Berry’s article on making a boom tent cockpit cover . How much material do you need? New bimini created by Ann. The width of most canvas and other fabrics is between 140cm and 150cm. When taking measurements I estimate in metres, and cut along the length of the fabric. For example if the sprayhood is 3.5m wide across the cockpit then I would need a 3.5m length of fabric to cover the cockpit width, and as many pieces of cloth as necessary for the cockpit length. A sprayhood is typically made of several different sections: the roof, the front section with the windows, and two side panels usually with webbing straps. In a wide cockpit the width of the roof section will take up most of the width of the canvas so I would not be able to get the window section out of one piece. I’d need an additional 3.5m of fabric. I measured the canvas zip channels and Velcro channels inside the old sprayhood, which attach it to the stainless steel frame and then the side sections. On squared paper I checked that they could be cut from the spare width material left from the window or roof section. If so, 7m of canvas was required for my sprayhood; if not, I would calculate the extra length required. When I’d worked out the length and widths of all the major pieces and their component parts I added an extra metre or so to allow for any errors in measuring. Extra fabric can always be used on smaller projects around the boat, and as coloured canvas is dyed, another batch might not be the same. Edging material, Velcro, plastic lining and webbing are measured directly along their lengths and the total length added up from each major piece being made. Zips are measured exactly, as they only come in specific lengths and will need to be shortened to fit if they are too long. I always replace any plastic fittings associated with the canvas work. If the canvas stitching has degraded then they will have too.
What else can you make with an industrial sewing machine?
Investing in a machine has been very worthwhile, and though I could resell it to recoup most of the costs, I think I’ll keep it in the short term. I’m having great fun, the boat is benefiting and I’m enjoying my purchase.
The industrial sewing machine has many advantages over my lighter domestic machine. The ability to sew heavier, treated canvas, leather and a wider range of upholstery fabrics opens up a greater range of projects. Here’s what else I’ve made:
- A canvas cover for the forepeak of Aderyn Glas . We store the dinghy under here over the winter. A simple project like that is a good way to become familiar with the industrial machine.
- New dodgers
- A cover for the solar panels
- Covers for the tail of the sail and gooseneck
- Padded seat backs for the cockpit (I plan to make new cockpit seats too)
- A variety of canvas bags, pockets, winch covers and other things I did not even know the boat needed until I let my mind wander while enjoying the sunshine in the cockpit!
- My husband, David, made a cover for our wooden garden seat last autumn out of the spare canvas I’d acquired.
Equipment and experience you will need before you start
To make a new sprayhood you’ll need to have had some sewing practice, experience of measuring, estimating fabric quantities and handling different materials, as they move and slip against one another.
YouTube has many tutorials, and though not necessarily marine-based, they’re still helpful.
There are lots of local sewing courses available, mainly for lightweight dress, household items and quilting, but these are the basic skills you’ll need for any sewing and are fully transferable. If you think you can do it, research it all, ask people for help, take a big breath and go for it!
If you don’t want to invest in an industrial machine, why not start with a domestic machine and take on some projects with lighter-weight fabrics. I’ve successfully made curtains, external shade and window covers, fender socks, a windscoop, re-covered the saloon cushions, and even a dinghy cover (many of these projects have been published in PBO over the years).
Materials you’ll need Double-sided tape Edging material 2m of rope channel Pack of chinagraph pencils (I got through three of them!) Length of stainless steel tubing (to check fit of tubes in sprayhood) 6m of lining plastic 14m grey canvas (covers bimini, sprayhood, bridging piece and dodgers) 2m clear plastic 10 x plastic zips: 4 x 90cm, 2 x 180cm, 2 x 45cm and 2 x 20cm Velcro: 10m x 2.5cm, loop and hook separate lengths. Metal and plastic fittings: 8 x lift-the-dot fasteners, 4 x canvas to canvas press studs, 2 x webbing strap tensioners. Polyester cotton: 1 x large spool 5,000m (plenty left for other projects) Zips, edging tapes, Velcro, thread and some of the other sundries you’ll need to make a sprayhood Suppliers Josh Brown of Severn Sails is a sailmaker and canvas work professional. I gave him a list and he sourced most of my materials. He also gave me some useful pointers and guidance before I started my projects. You can also source these yourself online via kayospruce.com . Fixtures and fittings can be bought from chandleries. Time to make I only work a few hours a day when I am sewing so I would say it took me about 16 hours (four days) for the bimini from start to finish and 20 hours (five days) for the sprayhood. I do spend a lot of time measuring and checking what I am doing at every stage so work quite slowly.
Recreating the bimini – step by step
Accurate measurement is essential. To ensure that every part of the bimini would match up I drew in permanent ink on the old canvas to identify where each element fitted but transferred marks to the new canvas with a white chinagraph pencil which would rub off later.
I used the individual pieces of the bimini, once deconstructed, to draw around and copy the image directly onto the new canvas. I took care to flatten out or straighten out each individual piece. Curved pieces when flattened out take up a greater length.
The bimini has three zipped channels, one central Velcro channel and a Velcro back flap to go around the back stay. This design also has a zip inserted along the whole front face to link to my bridging piece.
When you transfer dimensions from old to new material it’s best to work from a datum. In my case I established a centre line on each piece and worked from there.
1. Place the original bimini right side down onto the new canvas and draw around it. With a white chinagraph pencil, mark the centreline, and the position of the Velcro and zip channels and the backstay opening.
2. Remove each zip and Velcro channel from the old bimini after marking their original positions. You can then measure and compare between original and new before you sew the new ones in place. Take the detached pieces (eg, the zip, seen above) and sketch the position of the individual elements (such as the zip open and closed ends). Draw around these individual pieces on the new canvas.
3. Amazingly, all eight elements at the bottom of this photo are needed to make the rear starboard zip channel and back flap of the bimini (the original three pieces at the top). Once sewn back together (see steps below) you’ll need to repeat the process for the other two roof zip channels, and the port side flap and zip channel.
4. Edge each piece of canvas with matching grey fabric tape which will protect and neaten the raw edges of the fabric/canvas. Then use double-sided sticky tape to hold the zip in place when sewing it in. This stops adjacent layers slipping during sewing with the machine.
5. A finished zip channel. Complete all the zip channels in the same manner. Use a piece of stainless tubing (the same diameter as your bimini frame) to check the newly cut zip and Velcro sections will have sufficient width to wrap or enclose the tubes.
6. The bimini’s central Velcro channel has Velcro stitched onto the reverse and right sides to allow the canvas to curl around and encase the stainless steel frame. Draw around the canvas strips, cut them to length then stitch the Velcro in place. Here I used quilting clips to hold the Velcro while sewing.
Making the bimini backstay slot
The rear of the bimini has a hole to allow the backstay to pass through it. The canvas in this section has to be cut and Velcro is used to close the gap.
7. Measure the original and cut new pieces to form the Velcro closure.
8. Mark the centre opening on the new canvas for the backstay flap and around the hole. Cut the opening and sew a Velcro flap on to each side – hooks on the lower surface and loops on the upper.
9. Edge the backstay opening and all of the outer edges of the bimini with grey tape for neatness and strength.
How to shorten zips
Choose zips with plastic teeth, as metal will rust in a marine environment. Use the original zip to measure the exact length required, including the end tapes. For the sprayhood, if you’re making new channels, measure the length of gap in which to insert the new zip. This will be from the base of the zip to the top. Mark the final length with a pen, and where to cut.
1. These stainless steel zipper top stops are used to create the end of travel of the zip slider when done up.
2. Use pliers to squeeze the metal clips closed between the teeth on both sides of the zip.
3. Cut away the excess length of zip, above the mark (on both sides), being sure to leave a bit extra to form new tape ends for attachment to the canvas.
4. Use small pieces of plastic material to cover and reinforce the unused exposed teeth of the zip. For additional strength, over-sew the zip end two or three times and double-stitch all zips along their length.
How to make a sprayhood
My sprayhood is a three-dimensional structure fitting over a demountable stainless steel frame. Before disassembly I took lots of photographs to show how the different sections are attached, and labelled each one. The four main component parts are the roof, front window section and two side panels.
The rear section had a continuous canvas tube, with scalloped handhold gaps, into which one of the stainless bars is threaded when the sprayhood is erected each season. I wanted to replace this with zipped channels so the stainless frame did not need to be dismantled to take the sprayhood off – but at the same time I wanted to retain the handholds.
1. The original sprayhood showing the port side panel, with webbing straps, joined onto the roof and window panels, prior to deconstruction. You can see the UV damage to the torn zip.
2. Lay the old roof, right sides together, onto the new canvas and draw around the entire shape. Transfer all channels, zips and handhold positions to the new canvas, allowing for a 5mm seam. Repeat for the front window panel and the two side panels.
3. To make the new zip channels I drew around the originals on the rear of the new sprayhood roof. I cut off the flaps to form the patterns for the separate zip channels, then cut along the centre length of each flap to form a pattern for the new zip opening.
4. These are the component parts that form the central zip channel and there’s a similar set for each of the two smaller curved channels.
5. The two smaller side zip channels, ready to sew back onto the new roof section.
6. The rear of the roof section with the bridging piece zips inserted and the central zip channel attached. The handhold gaps have also been edged.
Fitting the windows
Fitting the plastic window panel into the canvas is tricky, as both materials are slippery and the window can easily become distorted when stitching.
To overcome this, place the old, intact window panel over the new plastic sheet and draw around the outer edge before cutting it out.
Now lay the new plastic window directly onto the underside, or wrong side, of the new, uncut canvas panel. Use double-sided tape to hold it in place while you sew them together.
Only carefully cut out the canvas aperture once the plastic is in place.
1. Sew the new window onto the reverse side of the panel. It’ll help with the next step to first cut a small guide hole in the centre of each window panel.
2. Having marked the window aperture (allowing for a seam), the small hole now gives access to cut around the canvas to reveal the window underneath.
3. Cut small nicks in the canvas around all the curves in the windows then fold the material back underneath to form a neat edge. Hold the fabric flat against the plastic.
4. Sew around the whole of the window sections, from the front, to firmly attach the plastic into the window cut outs. I used quilting clips to hold the backfolded edge in place while machining.
5. I lined the front lower edges of the sprayhood with plastic material to prevent wear to the canvas from rubbing on the coachroof, then attached the new webbing strips (not forgetting to incorporate the clips before sewing).
6. Here are the four sections of the sprayhood prior to being joined back into one three dimensional structure.
7. Sew the sections, right sides together, with a single seam, and then over-sew a second layer of stitching on the right (or outside) of the canvas for additional strength.
8. The final sewing task is to secure the prefabricated bolt rope tape into the base and sides of the front window panel. The bolt rope slides into a permanent plastic fitting on the coachroof and holds the sprayhood down at the front of the cockpit.
9. Reassemble the sprayhood on the boat before making a hole for the mainsheet. A laser pointer from the pulley block to the winch accurately positions it.
Sprayhood – bimini bridge
To cover the gap between the sprayhood and bimini when we are not sailing we have a bridging piece, which is attached with zips.
My detachable bridging piece joins to the sprayhood by the three front zips (the gaps are where the sprayhood handhold are) and then to the bimini by the one long rear zip
Originally published in PBO Aug19
- 01473 780075
- 07563 227188
- [email protected]
Here at Sail and Cover...
...we specialise in high quality made-to-measure boat covers, spray hoods, dodgers, stac systems, sail covers, Biminis, tonneau covers in fact ANY covers for your boats whether sail or power. We make sails, and have a great repair facility for fast turn arounds for both sails and covers. We undertake upholstery and much, much more! We were previously based on the UK East Coast at Woolverstone Marina on the River Orwell, but have now relocated to a new facility at Farthing Road Industrial Estate, in Ipswich, so that we are able to keep pace with our ever expanding workload. All of our products are tailor made to your specific requirements and as part of our service, and we continue to offer an on-board consultation.
Care For Your Sails & Covers
- Cleaning - removal of harmful salty deposits and fungal growth (and to make them look good!)
- Servicing - thorough checks to prevent oncoming problems, make minor repairs, and trim off those loose threads
- Repairs - to make good those rips & tears
- UV Protection Strips - to protect and prolong the life of your rolling headsail
- Window replacements
Covers to Meet Your Requirements
- Onboard consultation
- Boat covers, awnings, Biminis, sprayhoods, dodgers, sail covers and stack packs, binnacle and wheel etc, etc
- Made to measure, or like-for-like replacement of anything (if possible)
- Highest quality materials and workmanship
- Offering protection to your boat and crew.
- As plain or as wacky as you wish!
Of course we don’t just make sails and boat covers, we have the facilities to make almost anything. This year for instance we have made Hot tub covers, various Shades for architectural purposes, swimming pool covers, gazebos, strange tepee type covers, stage props etc etc. We are able to quote and manufacture Stac Pacs, Sail Covers, Dodgers and Dinghy covers, by using our downloadable forms. Please go to our enquiry page for details - distance is no longer a problem!
Our promise to you :-
- To respond to your enquiry within 24 hours
- To help you make sure what you order is what you really need
- To send your estimate within 48 hours of agreeing your needs
- To meet the timescales we agree with you
- To guarantee our team's work for 1 year
- To make every effort to put things right if they do go wrong (rare but obviously possible!)
Call Sail and Cover on 01473 780075 to discuss your requirements
| Contact us at: Sail and Cover E.mail | for our Terms & Conditions, and returns policy |
- Sail and cover servicing
- Sail repair
- Sacrificial strips
- Sail Covers
- Rear enclosure
- Winter cover
- Wheel & Binnacle
- Hatch & instrument
- Over boom cover
- Architectural
- Sail cover measurement form
new Sprayhoods
Whether its a new hood, complete with Stainless steel frame or simply time to replace you trusted but worn old sprayhood, Sabre sails has a solution for you.
Experience has Taught us how to design a hood that complements the lines of your yacht whilst providing optimum protection from the elements.
replacement Sprayhoods
Sabre Sails can supply a brand new sprayhood for you simply by copying your existing hood!
prices Starting from £450.00 offering significant savings over traditional methods.
years of experience has taught us how to take your old, worn and usually shrunk hood and return to you a product that restores the original integrity of your original design.
- +31 (0)320 26 46 60
- IJsselmeerdijk 2 (Flevo Marina TC), 8221 RC, Lelystad
- maintenance sails
Maintenance Sails
Sail protection.
Take care that all sharp corners and points such as bottle screws, split pins, stanchions, backstay blocks and spreader ends are well taped so that the sail the sail can be hoisted in one go. Mark the positions of the spreader ends on the sail so that appropriate self-adhesive Dacron protection patches can be applied at these points. Other “sensitive” parts of the sail, for example where a genoa rubs on a stanchion or pulpit or a batten pocket of a fully-battened mainsail rubs against the rigging, can be protected in the same way. Halyard tension and use of leech lines
Do not set the halyard tension too high, a vertical fold behind the luff with wind pressure in the sail is an indication that the halyard tension is too high. Use no more halyard tension than necessary in order to pull out horizontal folds in the foot. Use the leech line with care and do not pull it tighter than necessary to silence the leech, for example, when more sheet tension is required the slot is larger as the wind strength decreases.
Folding, storage and storage of sails
Sails should be folded or rolled so that sharp folds and kinks are avoided. Fold the sail in pleats of 60-70 cm parallel to the foot, then roll it loosely and store it in a large sail bag. Before a mainsail is stowed on the boom, the tension of the outhaul must be released. – Always store sails in a dry condition in a clean and ventilated room – If wet or damp sails remain on board, do not fold them but keep them loose in a well ventilated place – Never dry sails by hoisting them and letting them flap.
The combination of moisture and insufficient ventilation can result in mould and mildew on the sail. The lifespan and strength of the sail are not affected in any way, but it’s not a pretty sight and mildew is usually very difficult to remove.
UV protection of sails
When not in use, stow sails out of the effects of strong sunlight. A good sail cover and roller genoa cover offer the best protection for your sails, even when the genoa has an anti-UV coating or anti-UV strips sewn along the leech and foot.
Use of the sail
We strongly advise that you use your new sail in calm conditions the first time. Even though modern sail materials do not need to be “sailed-in”, this can help to evenly set the sail. The performance and lifespan of the sail will certainly benefit. – Do not use the sail above the wind range for which it was designed. – Reef the sail as soon as the circumstances require. – Avoid letting the sails flog as much as possible. – Take care to always set the correct fairlead positions to avoid permanently stretching the leech or the foot. – Give the lee sheet plenty of slack when tacking, never let the foresail hang on the spreaders.
Sail repairs and maintenance
Damage or small tears in the sail can be repaired temporarily using self-adhesive Dacron tape or spinnaker repair tape. Thoroughly clean and dry the repair area and apply the tape to both sides. At the first opportunity take the sail back to a sailmaker for a professional repair.
Cleaning the sails
Remove any salt deposits from the sail by rinsing it with clean, fresh water. Blood and mildew should be removed as soon as possible; brush away as much as possible with a firm, dry brush and let the affected area soak for 2 hours with a mild bleach solution (1% chlorine). Then rinse with clean water and use a soft brush to remove the remaining dirt. Rust stains can be cleaned with special purpose commercially available products. Carefully read the owner’s manual. Oil, grease and tar stains can be removed using light solvents such as acetone, special stain-removers and K2R or gasoline; always rinse the solvent residue from the sail with clean water.
Sprayhood and/or cockpit tent maintenance
Your new spray hood and / or cockpit tent is carefully designed and manufactured. For these we only use high quality, stable fabrics and use top quality finishes. All maintenance tips that apply to a spray hood and/or cockpit tent obviously also apply to biminis and accessories such as rocons, sail covers, dodgers, etc. that are made of the same material. It is important for you to keep your sprayhood and/or cockpit tent in optimum condition for as long as possible. We would therefore like to give you some tips on use and maintenance.
Protecting the sprayhood and cockpit tent
Make sure there are no point loads on the window material (e.g. by pushing hands against it) because it is a very flexible window film susceptible to deformation and it probably will not return to its original form. Also make sure that the sail cover is not rubbing on the top of the spray hood. Doing so may cause chafe marks that can not be removed. Tension When the spray hood (and/or cockpit tent) is first mounted on the boat, it is usually set up very tight. This is done intentionally in order to stretch out the fabric. Over time, the spray hood and/or cockpit tent will take shape and the tension will disappear. Leakage at the seams Sometimes it happens that leakage occurs at the seams during rain. This problem resolves itself after a few weeks because the stitching swells up naturally and no longer leaks. The stitch holes close themselves up. Folding, storage and storage Sprayhoods and/or cockpit tents must be folded or rolled so that creases and sharp bends are avoided and the windows lie flat without creases. • After drying store spray hoods and/or cockpit tents in a clean and ventilated room. • Never dry sprayhoods by hoisting them and letting them flap in the wind. The combination of moisture and insufficient ventilation can result in mould and mildew on the sprayhood and/or cockpit tent. Although the lifespan and strength of the product is not affected, it is not a pretty sight. Weathering marks are often impossible to prevent or avoid in products that are always exposed to the elements. Due to the current environmental regulations, it is impossible for manufacturers to produce fabrics that are resistant to all forms of mould. Our increasingly warm and wet climate is also a contributing factor. Also, the windows may get a white haze that is hard to remove.
Discolouration of sprayhood and cover
The sprayhood is made of a plastic coated fabric (e.g. Stamoid) or an acrylic fabric (e.g. Sunbrella or Markilux). Plastic coated fabric does not discolour and acrylic fabric is also colour-fast, except for red colouring. These can become lighter. The thread used to sew the panels together is a combination of cotton and polyester. The cotton seals the holes and the polyester gives strength. Because the cotton is on the outside of the thread it can fade in the sunlight. This is unfortunately unavoidable. Maintenance Acrylic fabric has a coating on the inner surface. This serves to waterproof the fabric. The downside is that this coating is susceptible to mould. This is unavoidable, but at least it removed. To avoid mould growth the hood must be regularly cleaned on the outside with clean water and a very soft brush or microfibre cloth and rinsed thoroughly with clean water. Vinyl hoods can also be cleaned with water and with a special vinyl cleaner when they are very dirty. Over time the plastic windows will become less transparent due to the effect of UV. This effect is unavoidable. If this occurs the windows must be replaced. Zippers should be kept free by regularly spraying them with a Teflon spray (without grease). Since the tongue of the zipper is metal it must also be kept clean. This tongue is made of a metal alloy that has poor or no salt resistance.
Sprayhood repairs
Damage or minor tears in the sprayhood can be temporarily repaired with tape. Thoroughly clean and dry the repair area and apply the tape to both sides. Do not leave this in place too long because it is likely that tape residue will stay on the fabric upon removal. At the first opportunity take the sprayhood back to a sailmaker for a professional repair.
Cleaning the sprayhood
Remove any salt deposits from the sprayhood by rinsing it with clean, fresh water. Most stains can be removed with lukewarm water and a soft brush and/or microfibre cloth. Cleaning products Several cleaning products are available from our watersport shop, for example: • 303 high tech fabric cleaner ( for acrylic fabric) • 303 high tech fabric guard ( for acrylic fabric) • Red Gull no. 2 ( for plastic coated fabric) • Starbrite fabric and sprayhood cleaner • Starbrite waterproofing with Teflon Rust stains can be cleaned with special purpose commercially available products. Carefully read all the instructions and try first on an inconspicuous place. Oil, grease and tar stains can be removed using special stain removers such as K2R or white spirit; always rinse the residue of these products from the spray hood with clean water and try on an inconspicuous place first.
Fitting the sprayhood
Before installing a new spray hood make sure that your boat is clean. When fitting the spray hood (e.g. at the beginning of the season) fasten all the snap fasteners on the front first. Then fit the tubes in the tube sleeves and fasten the zippers. Then evenly fasten the two straps (port and starboard) to line up to the snap fasteners on either side of the boat. Finally, fasten the side fasteners.
Fitting the cockpit tent to the sprayhood When fitting the cockpit tent to the sprayhood it is better, especially in the beginning, to fasten the cockpit tent to the sprayhood first (zip together) then zip the tubes into the tube sleeves and then fasten the straps on the cockpit tent also evenly fastening the snap fasteners at the right positions. After closing the zippers finally fasten the back snap fasteners.
Roller genoa cover instructions
Instructions for rocon (roller genoa cover)• Roll up the genoa as smooth as possible, slacken the sheets and make fast the clew then lay the sheets in long coils under the clew. • Attach the spinnaker‐ or second genoa sheet onto the hoisting point of the cover. • Close the zipper, zip it up for 10 cm and fasten the snap fastener. • Hold the zip slider firmly or tie the it with an approximately 1 m line to the pulpit and slowly hoist up the cover. • Once the cover is over the fattest point‐ the clew – the upper part can be pulled up all the way to the top. • Once it is completely hoisted, you can pull both lacing lines down simultaneously so that all slack is taken out of the cover. • Make sure that the cover is properly tightened because constant flapping may damage both the sail and the cover. • Fasten off the lacing lines.
Source: http://www.devriessails.nl
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Jonty Pearce – Sprayhoods and cockpit covers
- Theo Stocker
- October 11, 2016
When it comes to cost, it all depends on the kind of sailing you do and your willingness to be self-sufficient, says Jonty Pearce
Innovation Credit: Graham Snook/YM
Aurial , our Southerly 105 ketch, had spent a year in the Mediterranean before we bought her a little over eight years ago. The sun is strong in the Med, and ultraviolet had wreaked havoc on anything left on deck. A plastic container used for the stern anchor fractured at my touch, and the sprayhood stitching had virtually given up the ghost; I hardly dared touch it in case another seam started to split.
The trouble was, we’d pretty well scraped the barrel dry when stretching ourselves to buy her. My accountant, a lugubrious soul, had told me that I could not afford a yacht. He was, of course, right, but the statement was red rag to a bull and the purchase was duly agreed on my 50th birthday: a classic midlife crisis. However, I think his accountancy vision of yachting was that of posing on a half-million 50′ world girding yacht moored against the quay in Cannes, replete with skimpily clad blondes (some of them male), while wearing smart deck shoes, blazers with brass buttons, white shorts and a peaked cap clearly labelled ‘Captain’. The Welsh equivalent in Neyland Yacht Haven fortunately does not demand this standard of attire, and those dressed in such a manner would be the focus of considerable interest. No, in Neyland anti-foul splattered shoes, torn and stained trousers, and unsavoury shirts that have survived accidental holding tank spillage are totally acceptable. Not that we can’t scrub up well when we need to; it’s just that smart clothing does not stay smart long when scrabbling around in the bilge after dropping ones mobile phone under the engine during its service. Contrary to my accountant’s vision of fully serviced yachting, mine is one of do it yourself, and I have proved my bean counter wrong by following the self-sufficiency mantra.
Which brings me back to the sprayhood. Remember the sprayhood? It was the rotten one. Rather than investing half a grand or more on a new one, I spent £100 on a tough sewing machine that not only coped with restitching every single sprayhood seam but also let me make instrument covers, a binnacle cover, an anchor windlass cover, and spray dodgers. Luckily the material and windows of the sprayhood had been sound, but the cloth itself has now reached the end of its life even though the stitching is still strong. It looks wrinkly (think Norah Batty), tatty, grey, mildew stained and unsavoury, so I know I have to blow the dust off my wallet and commission a new one.
At the Southampton Boat Show we wandered the aisles and interrogated the canvas makers for quotes and ideas. Our specifications were for a replacement sprayhood that extended into a combination bimini and cockpit tent, whilst not inhibiting deck access or preventing us using the genoa winches. Oh, and Carol didn’t want any holes drilled for new fasteners. And we did not want any bulky folded canvas and poles where we sit on the cockpit coaming. And Aurial is a ketch with the mizzen mast sitting right on the forward edge of the rear deck. Needless to say, we came away disillusioned. No existing designs really fitted, so we bought the excellent Habitent cockpit tent instead while we thought about things.
This winter I am determined to put my own ideas to test. The mizzen mast’s presence can be turned to advantage by using it to tension and support a cockpit tent/bimini. The spinnaker winches that perch on the coamings level with it are to become the bases for the rear cockpit stainless steel hoop. The forward end of the cockpit cover will zip to the lip of a new replacement sprayhood, and the sides and rear section will be detachable to provide shade or shelter when we don’t require a full tent. I’m not sure of the detail of the side doors or windows yet – but I’m sure all will become clear after I visit Aurial with a length of alkathene piping, some old sheets, and my trusty sewing machine to construct a template that our local canvas genius will be able follow at a fraction of the cost of a bespoke supplier.
I find yachting is at its most satisfying when self-sufficient inventiveness and skill an be merged into a satisfying solution at a minimal cost. Especially when it proves the accountant wrong.
Jonty Pearce
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11: With the tape rubbed down, drop the new window on top of it. Check the position is correct, and then peel back the top protective cover of the tape to expose the adhesive. Rub the new window down on to it as you go. 12: The new window is now held firmly on top of the old one, and is ready to be sewn into place.
A sprayhood, also known as a dodger, is a protective cover designed to offer essential protection to both the open hatch and crew on sailing yachts. Supported by a sturdy 2 or 3-bar stainless steel frame, it features clear window panels at the front to maintain optimal visibility. The primary purpose of a sprayhood is to shield the crew from ...
Sprayhood fixings made of quality marine grade stainless steel or plastic. Where viable we reuse your existing boat fittings (unless the position is unsuitable) Manufactured to fit your existing frame or new frame can be supplied. Frame bar pockets come zipped for ease of removal. Hood can be tensioned at the rear with integral webbing straps.
Time to replace your Dodger or Sprayhood? Tight on budget? We've captured the whole process to help you DIY, along with some extra tips from a pro.Trusted sa...
Mark the centre opening on the new canvas for the backstay flap and around the hole. Cut the opening and sew a Velcro flap on to each side - hooks on the lower surface and loops on the upper. 9. Edge the backstay opening and all of the outer edges of the bimini with grey tape for neatness and strength.
908. Location. West Sussex, England. Visit site. David, I have had two repairs carried out (very well, including lots of stitching) on my spray hood, at a reasonable cost by Jane Clout ("sails, canvas, upholstery") she operates from home at 14 Adelaide Square, Shoreham-by-Sea, BN43 6LN, 01273 452481 and 077483 58885.
In this video, we save hundreds of pounds by replacing the vinyl windows in our old sprayhood / dodger rather than buying a new one! We remove the old torn w...
To make every effort to put things right if they do go wrong (rare but obviously possible!) Call Sail and Cover on 01473 780075 to discuss your requirements. Contact us at: Sail and Cover. Unit 2. Penny Corner. Farthing Road Ind. Est. Ipswich. Suffolk.
replacement Sprayhoods. Sabre Sails can supply a brand new sprayhood for you simply by copying your existing hood! prices Starting from £450.00 offering significant savings over traditional methods. years of experience has taught us how to take your old, worn and usually shrunk hood and return to you a product that restores the original ...
Sprayhood repairs. Damage or minor tears in the sprayhood can be temporarily repaired with tape. Thoroughly clean and dry the repair area and apply the tape to both sides. ... Before installing a new spray hood make sure that your boat is clean. When fitting the spray hood (e.g. at the beginning of the season) fasten all the snap fasteners on ...
Sprayhoods - Dolphin Sails are sailmakers and cover makers for boats, yachts and marine applications, based in Essex & the South Coast of UK, & Palma, Majorca. Call us on +44 (0)1255 243366 or email [email protected]
Aurial, our Southerly 105 ketch, had spent a year in the Mediterranean before we bought her a little over eight years ago.The sun is strong in the Med, and ultraviolet had wreaked havoc on anything left on deck. A plastic container used for the stern anchor fractured at my touch, and the sprayhood stitching had virtually given up the ghost; I hardly dared touch it in case another seam started ...
For frames we use as standard premium grade 316 3/4"stainless steel. The fittings we use to secure the hood to the boat (if there are existing fittings we always try to utilise them unless damaged) will be either, or a combination of; Lift the dot studs, press studs, turnbuckles, hooks, lacing buttons. The hood itself would made out of acrylic ...
SAILING YACHT SPRAYHOOD. The C&J Marine Sprayhood is modern, versatile and above all, innovative. Not only is it the perfect stand-alone product, but it also provides the foundations for further adaptations of C&J Marine top-of-the-range covers that will transform the Sprayhood into a first-class multi-functional system.
For winter covers and larger heavy duty boat covers Topgun a durable polyester fabric is used. About our Sprayhoods. Spray hoods and cockpit enclosures, have stainless steel frames bent specifically to suit the yacht. These are in 316 stainless usually 16 gauge for rigidity. We use 3/4,7/8 and 1 inch for larger constructions.
A sprayhood will help to keep the cockpit dry and comfortable and the hatchway will be protected, allowing it to be left open for ventilation. All of our sprayhoods are made to order; constructed using either coated Solacryl or Sunbrella Acrylic and are available in a wide range of colours. Thread options are standard Hemingway and Bartlett ...
Sail Shape 01726 833731. Our standard sprayhoods are made from marine grade acrylic, with 2 windows and provisions for 2 frames with push through sleeves. £695 + VAT Additional windows: £35 Zip sleeve: £15 per meter Drop down zip window: £60 Frames made from 316 stainless steel, 19mm x 1 mm thick tube bent to suit boat on site:
Fellow sailors are well protected behind the cover. The additional part is attached using an overlap on the aft edge of the sprayhood, which is braced downwards on both sides of the coaming. Additional rubber stoppers prevent the overlap from slipping. Even simpler, but more expensive: attaching the sprayhood with a zip, as with a connecting ...
Just the materials cost £100 at trade price. All the farting about involved in making a one off easily comes to another £400 at workshop rates. Now if you ordered 1,000 sprayhoods all the same, I could do them real cheap - more like £40 in time. And NO I wont make one for you.
We use the very best marine grade materials and products meaning that your new cover will last for many years to come. - Repairs to marine canvas and boat hoods. Restitching seams, zips, rips, wear and tears; replacement of worn out hook and loop (velcro) strips; replacement of hood fastenings. Easing of stretched and shrunken canvas panels.
Dolgoprudny is a town in Moscow Oblast, Russia, located about 20 kilometers north of Moscow city center. The town's name is derived from Russian "Долгий пруд" —a long and narrow pond situated in the northeastern part of the town. Photo: Георгий Долгопский, CC BY-SA 4.0. Ukraine is facing shortages in its brave fight ...
Mads is making a sprayhood for our boat. For those of you who don't know, a sprayhood (also "dodger") is the canvas hood that covers part of the cockpit and the entrance to the boat. You can see the old one in the picture below. The one in this picture was old and brittle, and it had seen many repairs in its time.
Dolgoprudny (Russian: Долгопру́дный, Russian pronunciation: [dəlɡɐˈprudnɨj]) is a town in Moscow Oblast, Russia, located about 20 kilometers (12 mi) north of Moscow city center. The town's name is derived from Russian "Долгий пруд" (dolgy prud, lit. "long pond")—a long and narrow pond situated in the northeastern part of the town.