motorboat

sailboat bulkhead repair

Building, restoration, and repair with epoxy

Epoxyworks

Replacing Damaged Bulkheads

By dan witucki.

Above: With her damaged bulkheads replaced, the Evelyn 32-2 sailboat RUSH is back in action. Several weeks later, the new bulkheads proved they could handle the stress of a heavy knockdown and a major storm during the infamous 2002 Chicago to Mackinac race.

If you race a sailboat long and hard enough, it eventually will reveal its weaknesses, sometimes violently. My friends and I race an Evelyn 32-2 called Rush. Less than a month before the 2002 Mackinaw races, we were competing in the Saginaw Bay Yacht Racing Association, Gravelly Shoals race. Throughout the race, the wind had been building and we were a little overpowered with a full main and 150% headsail. We had completed about 45 miles of the 50-mile race when the starboard chainplate decided it had enough and pulled out of the bulkhead.

sailboat bulkhead repair

The port bulkhead with the chainplate still attached.

Fortunately, Evelyn 32’s are designed with a stainless wire strut running from the chainplate down to near the mast step. This kept the rig from coming down; however, we were definitely done racing for a while.

After limping back to the dock and examining the damage, we decided to completely replace the bulkhead on both sides of the boat. Over the years, the chainplates had been leaking and had delaminated and rotted the plywood bulkheads. Before the accident, the bulkheads looked fine, but it was amazing to see afterward how badly they actually had deteriorated. With the end grain of the plywood bulkhead up against the underside of the deck, the chainplate was leaking directly onto the exposed end grain of the wood. Water damage was inevitable.

The next decision that had to be made was what material to use for the new bulkheads. The original, damaged bulkheads were made of ” marine grade mahogany plywood. However, we weren’t too anxious to use plywood again. It would be quick and easy, but we wanted something more bulletproof than plywood. After talking to Gougeon Technical Advisor, J.R. Watson , we decided to go with an epoxy/fiberglass composite called G-10. We selected ½” G-10 to replace the 5/8″ plywood. Because of G-10’s strength, we could have gone thinner yet. However, that would have made it more difficult to install and have everything else match up.

Removing the old, damaged bulkheads

Although I usually do most of the fiberglass and fairing work on Rush, John DeWyse did most of this job. The first step was to remove the shrouds and fasten them to the toe rail. Then it was time to go below and take the interior apart.

sailboat bulkhead repair

The starboard bulkhead where the chainplate let go was the result of accumulated water damage and heavy loads.

Luckily, Evelyn 32’s aren’t real plush, and this job went fairly quickly. We moved all the sails, equipment, and cushions from the bow and mid-section of the boat to the stern. Then we hung a tarp behind the companionway to keep the dust away from that area of the boat. We placed a large window fan over the front hatch, blowing out. With the companionway open, we had good ventilation. The next step was to carefully peel back the headliner and inner upholstery with a putty knife and tape them back out of the way. To cut the bulkheads free, John used a Roto Zip™ tool. This worked very quickly with minimal dust. He simply went down each side of the bulkhead, cutting the tabbing where the bulkhead met the hull and deck. He had both damaged bulkheads out after about 1½ hours. Then he used a 6″ grinder with a 40-grit disc to remove the old glass tabbing on the hull and underside of the deck. After that, we vacuumed up the dust.

Installing the new bulkheads

Since John was able to get the bulkheads out without damaging them further, they made perfect templates. When the G-10 arrived, we traced the bulkheads onto the new material using a black felt tip marker, modifying them slightly from the original design. We decided to extend the bottom of the bulkhead so that it could be bolted and glued to a floor frame that was below the original bulkhead. To cut the G-10 composite, we used a reciprocating saw with a carbide grit blade used for cutting cast iron and fiberglass.

John used a Roto Zip to cut the tabbing where the bulkhead met the hull and deck. The Roto Zip cut quickly and raised minimal amount of dust.

John used a Roto Zip to cut the tabbing where the bulkhead met the hull and deck. The Roto Zip cut quickly and raised minimal amount of dust.

Cutting was rather slow; this stuff is tough. Taking turns, we were able to cut each bulkhead out in about an hour. The new bulkheads were taken down to the boat and put into place. After we had ground down a couple of high spots, they fit perfectly. Next, I ground and sanded a radius on the long straight edge, since this edge would be exposed to the interior. I finished preparing the bulkheads by using a random dual action sander with 80-grit paper to sand the edges where the tabbing will bond it to the hull and deck.

With the starboard bulkhead removed we were ready to remove the glass tabbing with a disc grinder.

With the starboard bulkhead removed we were ready to remove the glass tabbing with a disc grinder.

With the bulkheads set into place, we cut strips of 738 Biaxial Fabric (with a mat backing) needed to tab the bulkheads into place. We cut enough to do both sides of the bulkheads with two layers of cloth, then set them aside. With the bulkheads still in place, we drilled three holes through the bottom of each bulkhead and through the floor frame. We used 3/8″ stainless bolts to fasten these together, but drilled 7/16″ holes. Later, when we glued in the bulkhead, we filled these holes with thickened glue, inserted the bolts, and tightened them down. This forms a very strong bond with all of the bolts loaded equally.

We later mounted the chainplates in the same manner. To glue the new bulkheads in place, we made a mixture of WEST SYSTEM® 105/206 epoxy thickened with 406 Filler to a peanut butter consistency. We removed one bulkhead and buttered the edge where it meets the hull and deck with a thick layer of epoxy using a plastic spreader. We also applied epoxy to the side of the frame where the new bulkhead overlapped it and in the three bolt holes in the bulkhead and stringer. We then clamped and bolted the bulkhead into place. John formed a fillet on both sides of the bulkheads where the glass tabbing would be applied, using more thickened epoxy and a plastic spreader with a radius cut on one corner.

After the epoxy had started to set, John wet out the fiberglass cloth with a mixture of 105/206 and applied the strips. The first strip had 60% of the cloth on the bulkhead and the second layer had 60% of the cloth on the hull side of the joint. This staggering of the glass forms a strong joint without the need to cut two different widths of glass. Air bubbles were worked out with a plastic spreader.

The next day, after careful measurement, we drilled the chainplate holes. Then we glued and bolted in the chainplates as previously described. We later caulked around them on deck. Then we cleaned and put the interior back together. We waited three days before installing the shrouds and tuning the rig. Although this bulkhead replacement job had looked rather intimidating, in reality, it was rather straightforward and we completed it in about 20 hours.

The bottom of the bulkhead/hull joint before the old tabbing was removed. We would extend the bottoms of the new bulkheads so they could be bonded to the side of the floor that ran transversely across the bottom of the hull.

The bottom of the bulkhead/hull joint before the old tabbing was removed. We would extend the bottoms of the new bulkheads so they could be bonded to the side of the floor that ran transversely across the bottom of the hull.

Stress Test

Several weeks later, in the Chicago to Mackinac Island race, we tested our repair. During the second day of the race, the wind had been building and we were surfing, hitting 14’s, when we experienced a hard knockdown that laid the mast in the water. Later that evening, a strong storm tore through the fleet dismasting several 80′ boats, pitchpoling a 40′ catamaran and making a number of sail lofts very happy. We had the full main up and were in the process of taking down our chute when the storm hit. We were told it blew 60-70 knots (we had lost our instruments and masthead unit in the earlier knockdown). The boat and her new bulkheads weathered the storm just fine, and the crew’s nerves are nearly back to normal.

We used the old bulkhead as a template to layout the new bulkhead, and then sanded the edges of the new G-10 bulkhead to prepare the surfaces where the new tabbing will be bonded.

We used the old bulkhead as a template to layout the new bulkhead, and then sanded the edges of the new G-10 bulkhead to prepare the surfaces where the new tabbing will be bonded.

Two layers of 738 Biaxial Fabric tabbing were applied to each side of the bulkhead to reinforce the joint between the bulkhead and the hull and deck.

Two layers of 738 Biaxial Fabric tabbing were applied to each side of the bulkhead to reinforce the joint between the bulkhead and the hull and deck.

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30-11-2014, 19:06  
Boat: 40', Farr 38
 regarding structural integrity of the forward main bulkhead. Yes, this is the one that the chainplates attach to.

A design/construction problem 25 years ago, has manifested it's ugly . , as it would come down the via halyards, etc., would be funneled to the forward side of this bulkhead where it would pool and slowly cause the that I've detailed in the included sketch and photos.

This bulkhead was glassed to the aft side of a main stringer.

My questions are the following:
1. Has the bulkhead integrity and stiffness been compromised?

2. Would new ply glassed back into the area with butt joints just above the bottom of the doorway be strong enough?

3. In conjunction w/Teak ply, would adding 1/4" alum plate as indicated on the drawing, that is scarfed over good solid existing bulkhead sufficiently re-enforce the bulkhead?

I'm thinking I'd drill 1/8" random holes and really scuff up the alum plate to enhance bonding. The alum plate would then be cosmetically covered with veneer to match existing. Total thickness would not exceed existing bulkhead thickness (about 3/4")  
30-11-2014, 22:55  
Boat: 1976 Sabre 28-2
 . The teak is only a veneer with the rest of the something else. AC exterior plywood would probably just fine or marine ply if you don't care about the expense. Tabbing the new piece to the should be plenty strong enough.
01-12-2014, 10:00  
Boat: 40', Farr 38
 issues.


Sent from my using Cruisers Sailing Forum
01-12-2014, 10:02  
Boat: 40', Farr 38
 is made)?

Obviously, I'm planning on repairing this. I've already removed all the rotten , etc. I just want to understand what, if any structural implications there are to this .


Sent from my using Cruisers Sailing Forum
01-12-2014, 12:10  
MD 21403
+1 410-267-0780



They might know best about structural issues and recommended fixes.


FRP will weigh more than many plywoods, but it certainly eliminates any moisture issues. If honeycomb FRP is suitable, that gives you strength and gets weight off the . Either one can be surfaced with teak veneer if you want to keep the teak look.
01-12-2014, 15:22  
Boat: 40', Farr 38
 was built in 1990 in Rio Dejanero, the design goes back to 1978 when Bruce Farr was in NZ.
My assumption is that even if they are willing to discuss this issue they will basically say 'yes it's structural' and that I should have a professional repair it. I can't imagine them saying much else due to liability issues. Then again...
01-12-2014, 15:53  
boat produced 25 years ago has plenty of strength even with the rotten bulkhead , but like you said , your going to fix it. I can't make out any fine detail from your pictures but I get the idea I think. With all the rotten removed and smoothed out I would simply lay pieces of in and build area back up, use polyester or , I think polyester would be fine. I have done this on two different boat bulkhead . Very quick and easy to do. With a boat like this I can't see weight being a consideration.


Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum
01-12-2014, 16:02  
Boat: 40', Farr 38
 this boat.

As my original ply was likely 1/2" or maybe 5/8" thick, I'm considering using two thinner of the FRP, 3/16" and applying one in place, and immediately inserting the second layer of 3/16" In this manner, I'm hoping that I'd be able to maneuver the thinner down into the 2 1/2" to 3" cavity left from where the original wood went right down to the hull. And of course the second sheet would be well slathered in thickened to help fill any voids left.

By laminating this repair up I figure that I can not only get the material built up in these difficult locations, but that the end product would be even stronger. This build up method would also make it easier to scarf the joint into the vertical sections of the good existing bulkhead on either side of the door (only about 2" in width. Essentially replacing on my drawing the plate with the 2 laminated up to 1/2", (2) 3/16" FRP .
01-12-2014, 17:28  
Boat: Nauticat
this boat.

As my original ply was likely 1/2" or maybe 5/8" thick, I'm considering using two thinner sheets of the FRP, 3/16" and applying one in place, and immediately inserting the second layer of 3/16" In this manner, I'm hoping that I'd be able to maneuver the thinner sheets down into the 2 1/2" to 3" cavity left from where the original wood went right down to the hull. And of course the second sheet would be well slathered in thickened epoxy to help fill any voids left.

By laminating this repair up I figure that I can not only get the material built up in these difficult locations, but that the end product would be even stronger. This build up method would also make it easier to scarf the joint into the vertical sections of the good existing bulkhead on either side of the passage door (only about 2" in width. Essentially replacing on my drawing the plate with the 2 laminated up to 1/2", (2) 3/16" FRP .
01-12-2014, 19:35  
Boat: 40', Farr 38
01-12-2014, 19:40  
Boat: Nauticat
01-12-2014, 19:41  
Boat: Nauticat
01-12-2014, 20:21  
unit.

Use thickened epoxy to fill any gaps where your piece meets the old fiberglass and then tab it with several layers of fiberglass tape (as you planned). Get the old fiberglass really clean (sanding and acetone) so that the tab adheres well.
01-12-2014, 22:07  
of the rotten part. I saw similar discoloration on a bulkhead that was hiding rotten ply. The problem is that the teak veneer can be solid, but the underlying ply can be rotten. Are you sure you've removed all the rot?
02-12-2014, 09:20  
Boat: 40', Farr 38
of the rotten part. I saw similar discoloration on a bulkhead that was hiding rotten ply. The problem is that the teak veneer can be solid, but the underlying ply can be rotten. Are you sure you've removed all the rot?

sailboat bulkhead repair

 
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1991 Formula 242 Stringer & Bulkhead Repairs w/ Many Pics

  • Thread starter tpenfield
  • Start date Mar 3, 2012

tpenfield

  • Mar 3, 2012

sailboat bulkhead repair

Friscoboater

Re: 1991 Formula 242 Stringer & Bulkhead Repairs Re: 1991 Formula 242 Stringer & Bulkhead Repairs I am glad you are using the photobucket method. I hate clicking the little pictures. The rot does not look terrible, but there is some fixing that needs to be done. Are you going to remove the fiberglass deck?  

friscoboater said: I am glad you are using the photobucket method. I hate clicking the little pictures. The rot does not look terrible, but there is some fixing that needs to be done. Are you going to remove the fiberglass deck? Click to expand...

Re: 1991 Formula 242 Stringer & Bulkhead Repairs Re: 1991 Formula 242 Stringer & Bulkhead Repairs I thin you are right in there. I think this boat is like my glastron. All the rot was in the back.  

  • Mar 5, 2012
  • Mar 10, 2012

Re: 1991 Formula 242 Stringer & Bulkhead Repairs Re: 1991 Formula 242 Stringer & Bulkhead Repairs Today, I plan on removing the fuel tank from the boat. It is a 94 gallon tank (as per the certification label), and it has maybe 5-10 gallons in it. My plan is to off-load the remaining fuel (looks like I'll have plenty of lawnmower gas) and then remove the tank. Question: this will be my first fuel tank removal . . . aluminum tank. Other than the basic dis-assembly of straps, hoses, sender wiring, etc. is there anything that I should be keenly aware of? I am also wondering how much it is going to weigh . . . it is about 7 feet long and 2 feet wide . . . the certification label says "0.125 gauge" (so I assume that is the thickness of the aluminum). I am figuring around 75-100 lbs, but that is just a guess. T.I.A.  

  • Mar 24, 2012

sailboat bulkhead repair

Woodonglass

Supreme mariner.

Re: 1991 Formula 242 Stringer & Bulkhead Repairs Re: 1991 Formula 242 Stringer & Bulkhead Repairs I'm thinkin if she's as good as you say she is going forward, then You could cut out the bad and "Sister" in the stringers going to the stern and replace the bulkheads and motor mounts and transom. Shouldn't be a problem.  

  • Mar 25, 2012
Woodonglass said: I'm thinkin if she's as good as you say she is going forward, then You could cut out the bad and "Sister" in the stringers going to the stern and replace the bulkheads and motor mounts and transom. Shouldn't be a problem. Click to expand...

Re: 1991 Formula 242 Stringer & Bulkhead Repairs Re: 1991 Formula 242 Stringer & Bulkhead Repairs Today, I checked the structure to find where all the rot is located . . . I drilled holes, etc. to see where I could find solid wood versus rot. The engine compartment uses thru-bolted engine mounts, so there are actually 2 stringers on each side. The inboard stringers, where the engine mounts bolt through are hollow almost all the way back to the transom. The outside stringers have some rot started where they meet the bulkhead. I did some research and found that borates and ethylene glycol are useful in killing the rot fungus and related 'bugs' So, I drilled some holes in the top of the stringer that leads to the transom and loaded it up with some E.G. I'm hoping that this will stop the deterioration at the stringers and save the transom, because it will be a few weeks until I can open things up to clean them out and do the repairs. The transom itself looks OK and I have drilled into it in various locations and hit good wood. I will need to do a bit more inspection of the transom, but I'm hoping it is OK.  

  • Mar 27, 2012

sailboat bulkhead repair

Re: 1991 Formula 242 Stringer & Bulkhead Repairs Re: 1991 Formula 242 Stringer & Bulkhead Repairs i really like the photo bucket links .... im re reading the thread now...  

tpenfield said: The inboard stringers, where the engine mounts bolt through are hollow almost all the way back to the transom. . Click to expand...
oops! said: thoes are not hollow stringers bud.....they are totally rotten away. the glass must be cut out, stringer replaced, and the shape re glassed. your approach with glass fill and epoxy is iffy......the ratios must be corrrect. use at least 60 or 70% glass to 30 or 40 percent reisn Click to expand...

Re: 1991 Formula 242 Stringer & Bulkhead Repairs Re: 1991 Formula 242 Stringer & Bulkhead Repairs Stuff em and fill em with What???  

Woodonglass said: Stuff em and fill em with What??? Click to expand...

rickryder

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Sailboat bulkhead material and Location

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I'm really using this forum to gear up for a project, thank you very much. Marine plywood versus standard pressure treated plywood as an alternative for a bulkhead material? Marine plywood needs to be shipped in from Seattle...I can grab a sheet of 3/4" pressure treated right off of the shelf. Any issues with this that folks can comment on? Follow up, I've been reading about some folks using a fiberglass G-10 panels in a West System write-up as well for an alternative. Also, Location....is there any reason not to remove a bulkhead while the boat is in the water....structurally or is this a boatyard repair. I can shore up the lateral as required, however without load...mast removed and shrouds not connected, cabin deck supported internally...is there a flex issue with the boat simply floating without a main bulkhead?  

sailboat bulkhead repair

I replaced my starboard side bulkhead recently and used marine plywood because I had ready access to it for a fair price. In retrospect, I am not sure it was necessary because I ended up coating the piece with epoxy and strengthing areas with additional layers of fabric. The marine ply is clearly superior to the standard and I have a greater level of confidence in the repair. Also my boat is 7.3 meter and will not have the same load as your Cal. West Systems Epoxy Works had a good article on a bulkhead repair where an even more $$ and exotic material was used  

Yes, I read that article and looked at the composite board material! $$ is right....but bulletproof. Thanks.  

sailboat bulkhead repair

Thanks Sailingdog. Great point on the toxicity. I was thinking simply on durability and not that I'd have to be living next to it.  

sailboat bulkhead repair

Marine plywood has a couple advantages ...extra ply and no voids..been told same glue is in exterior ply so thats no better...but for a bulkhead that will be reinforced anyway I would not pay special fright and or wait for it to arrive just to have it but would go with 3/4 inch cc plugged ex tier... Pressure treated ply also is not as stiff due to the impregnation process...it warps a lot easier under loads...so I would not use it for a bulk head...I wish Bayliner would have used it for transoms in their boats though...they would not have such a rot issue... You will be fine pulling your main bulk head under the conditions you listed still in the water...  

My feeling on these type of questions is that the labor of the job (your time)is exponentially more expensive than the materials and often you are short changing yourself by choosing a less expensive material over the one you know is better. Just my two cents but I have found that after spending 80 or so hours (WAG) on a job like this it's easy to regret saving $50-75 or so bucks for cheaper materials. Good marine plywood cuts much cleaner, the plys are usually finer grain, is vastly stiffer as Stillraing points out, has no voids, and will provide the right answer for the next potential owners survey. Whichever way you go, good luck with the project  

I can understand the difficulty you face, if the proper material is not available. Would your supplier be willing to put a few sheets of marine ply on his next shipment of material, and perhaps split the freight with you? Whatever you use, I would echo the others and say use the best you can get your hands on. It isn't an easy job to begin with, and it would be a shame to see first class labor with second rate materials. From my own expierience I would advise that once the piece is cut and test fit that you seal all the edges with thickened epoxy, two coats is best, and then tab to the hull well. Your bulkheads may never have rotted if the edges were sealed well. Wooden boats can funcion well indefinately with water inside, but plywood fairs poorly to being even damp for long periods. Do the job well and be pleased with the result. Feetup  

Great stuff guys....thank you very much. Marine Ply it is an take my time.  

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sailboat bulkhead repair

J22 Ives Knoll - Main Bulkhead Replacement project

Our club J22 fleet is aging and two boats required new main bulkheads.  This page documents the replacement on the main bulkhead in J22 #6 Ives Knoll due to rot at the port side chainplate.  There are also some other minor repairs documented here.

sailboat bulkhead repair

Ready for last glass work on a beautiful day

sailboat bulkhead repair

Bulkhead weakened at chainplate on port side

The first step was to create a template of the existing bulkhead.  This was done using cardboard on the previous boat (J22 #5) and we had created pressboard templates for port and stbd halves of the bulkhead.  These pieces were test fitted and some minor modifications made.  Once we were happy the chainplates and all other hardware caps and fiddles were removed from the existing template and a proper test fitting was completed.

sailboat bulkhead repair

Templates aligned on the Coosa board to cut new bulkhead core.

sailboat bulkhead repair

Pink coloured pencil was the best contrast

sailboat bulkhead repair

New core pieces cut.

sailboat bulkhead repair

Test fitting the new core pieces

The templates were oriented on the coosa core material in a manner to produce the least wastage.  Then they were traced in pink coloured pencil and cut using a jigsaw.  Back in the boat they were placed against the existing bulkhead to ensure a proper fit. A minor modification and we were happy with the fit and ready to proceed with the demolition stage.

sailboat bulkhead repair

Old bulkhead mostly removed

sailboat bulkhead repair

Old bulkhead removed. Now cleaning up leftover edges

sailboat bulkhead repair

The last bits of the old bulkhead chiselled out.  Ready for grinding

sailboat bulkhead repair

Grinding complete.  A lot of mess!

sailboat bulkhead repair

Gelcoat removed for tabbing and the mess mostly cleaned up.  Ready for new bulkhead.

With the templating process ccompleted it was time to remove the old bulkhead.  Despite being rotted at port chainplate the rest of the bulkhead and the tabbing was very strong and difficult to remove.  Tools of choice were Reciprocating saw, angle grinder with cutting disc, cordless drill, BFH (Big F...ing Hammer), prying tools, wood chisels.

Initially a 3/8 inch bit on cordless drill was used to make a hole for the saw.  Then we cut around the edges of the bulkhead and applied liberal doses of bashing with the BFH and even some prying to get rid of the bulkhead.  The process required frequent changing of blades in the reciprocating saw but eventually the old bulkhead was removed in three pieces. There was still some tabbing and some of the plywood from the old bulkhead attached at the hull.  The cutting disc on the grinder took care of the tabbing material and a wood chisel and a lot of patience removed the wood residue. 

With the bulkhead removed it was time to prep the surfaces.  The interior of the J22 is gelcoat.  This must be ground away for 5 inches on each side of the bulkhead to allow the new tabbing material to bond to the hull.  The angle grinder once again used with a sanding disc.  The process was not difficult but very messy.  It is even worse due to the cramped and low ventilation conditions inside a J22.  Following this process 30 minutes with a shop vac was required to cleanup the large amound of dust and gelcoat residue.

sailboat bulkhead repair

New bulkhead core joined with strip of Biax cloth

sailboat bulkhead repair

New bulkhead assembled and ready for installation

To say the interior of a J22 is cramped is an understatement.  For Ives Knoll we decided to assemble the bulkhead outside of the boat where the working conditions are much more pleasant.  Leaving approx four inches uncoated at the edges for the initial tabbing material both front and back sides of the bulkhead were covered with biaxial cloth.  Following this process the exposed edges of the new bulkhead were covered with 6 oz cloth.  These are the edges that will be exposed once the installation is complete so the 6 oz cloth makes for a more finished look.  We are now ready to install the bulkhead in the boat.

sailboat bulkhead repair

New bulkhead in place and ready for tabbing

sailboat bulkhead repair

First layer tabbing applied. View from forward

With the bulkhead now assembled it is time to move back inside the boat. A bit more grinding and some minor persuasion with a rubber mallet and the new bulkhead was in place.  It was a very snug fit which is great.  With the bulkhead in place the next step was to apply the first layer of tabbing to the forward side of the bulkhead.  For this we used 6 inch wide tabbing tape which is basically biaxial cloth that comes on a roll.  The aft side will have any gaps around the edges filled with Polyfair and then will also have a layer of 6 inch tabbing.  This will be followed by a layer of 8 inch tabbing (biaxial cloth) and then a full covering of forward and aft faces of bulkhead extending 5 inches out on to hull as the final tabbing.

sailboat bulkhead repair

Initial layer tabbing complete fore and aft

sailboat bulkhead repair

Polyfair applied around compression post step.  Some cleanup required

One interesting side project involved a small gap between the mast compression post step and the new bulkhead.  When cleaning up the area around the old bulkhead some edges of the forward tabbing were left in place as a guide to location of new bulkhead.  With the new bulkhead tight against these edges there was a 1/4 inch gap between the step and the new bulkhead.  One option was to tighten the bolts once bulkhead was complete, however it was decided that this would cause a bend in the bulkhead.  Instead we opted to tighten two of the bolts to the point where the fit was tight but the bulkhead not bent prior to tabbing.  Then the small gap between the compression step and bulkhead was filled with resin soaked fibreglass mat.  With this done Polyfair was used to seal the edges of the gap.  As seen in the above photo there will be a sanding required to clean this up after it cures.  Cloth will then cover the polyfair up to the edge of the compression step.

sailboat bulkhead repair

2nd layer of Tabbing cloth applied. Ready for final layer cloth

sailboat bulkhead repair

Final layer of cloth fitted and ready for resin

sailboat bulkhead repair

Final layer of cloth complete

sailboat bulkhead repair

Ran out of gelcoat!

Now that the bulkhead was tabbed in place it was time to apply a second wider layer of tabbing.  The first layer was 6 inch wide and the second 8 inch wide to provide an overlap.  24 hours later we were ready for the final full layer of glass.  This was a full covering of the bulkhead and extended its tabbing 5 inches on to the hull.  After sanding the bulkhead was still tacky so held the new cloth in place while a genourous amount of resin was applied.  Following this was a 24 hour wait for curing, a final light sanding and then gelcoat was brushed on rather than paint.  Unfortunately there was only enough to coat the forward face of the bulkhead and a small bit around the chainplates  port and starboard.  Project on hold pending the arrival of more gelcoat.

sailboat bulkhead repair

Four bolt holes drilled for mast compression post step and 2 limber holes

sailboat bulkhead repair

Port chainplate re-installed

sailboat bulkhead repair

Stbd chainplate re-bedded.  Needs screws for cap

While waiting for more gelcoat to arrive some final steps of the bulkhead replacement task were undertaken.  Most of this involved drilling holes.  First the chainplates had to be reinstalled.  The temporary caulking was removed at the deck and then using a cordless drill the bulkhead slots were re-shaped thru the fibreglass tabbing.  Then the chainplates were put in place, bolt holes drilled and bolted in place.  Once that was complete on deck the chainplates and covers were bedded using 3M 4200 adhesive sealant.  Thankfully we had enough gelcoat the previous day to apply a coat where the chainplated would sit on the bulkheads and where the chainplates would come thru the tabbing on underside of deck.  A final task was to prepare for rebolting the mast compression post step to the bulkhead and to drill limber holes for drainage.  Once the final coat of gelcoat is applied the step will be bolted in place.

sailboat bulkhead repair

Port bulkhead with slight bump out for chainplate

sailboat bulkhead repair

Bulkhead installation complete.  Just requires hardware bolted in place

sailboat bulkhead repair

Bulkhead complete with chainplates and mast compression step bolted in place.  Some cleanup required

The gelcoat supply had been replenished and we were ready to complete the bulkhead. However we did notice an odd thing.  This J22 had a bulkhead that was thicker than the previous one and we were using the same stock for bulkhead core.  This resulted in a finished biulkhead whose aft side was approx 1/8 inch forward of the chainplate holes in the deck.  Due to this there was a gap between chainplate and bulkhead where bulkhead meets deck.  The chainplates were removed, the painted on gelcoat was sanded off and a patch four layers thick of biaxial cloth was built at chainplate locations port and stbd.  In the picture above you can just see this bumpout that removes the gap.  With this complete the aft side of the bulkhead was brushed with gelcoat and the bulkhead installation is now complete.  The chainplate needed to once again be installed and bedded and the mast compression step bolted to the new bulkhead.

Gunwhale Repair

sailboat bulkhead repair

Aft section was in the worst state

sailboat bulkhead repair

Forward the damage was less severe

There had been some damage to the port gunwhale in four separate places.  Two places were simply cracked gelcoat while the other two were through to the layup material.  The section that was aft actually was cracked completely through with the fairing material beneath crumbling while the forward section was surface only.  The two small sections with cracked gelcoat need only to be ground faired and new gelcoat applied.

sailboat bulkhead repair

Aft section with damaged material ground out.  Nasty

sailboat bulkhead repair

Forward section cleaned up and 3 layers 6oz cloth in place

sailboat bulkhead repair

Aft section with 5 layers cloth

The two main areas were ground to remove the damaged material. The one aft had crumbly fairing material inside a hole.  This was dug out and replaced with polyfair and then five layers of 6oz cloth were applied.  We could not get biaxial cloth to lay flat over this bend so 6 oz cloth was used.  The forward area had 3 layers of cloth applied and looks ready for sanding and fairing.  The aft section needs to be built up with  bit more cloth before it is faired.  The other two minor sections require fairing material only.  This will be faired using coloidal silica mixed with polyester resin for added adhesion, strength and for its white colour. 

sailboat bulkhead repair

First fairing coat applied. It is not white

sailboat bulkhead repair

Port Aft Gunwhale area faired and sanded

sailboat bulkhead repair

Port Fwd gunwhale area faired and sanded

One more layer of cloth forward and another aft was applied.  Next West 406 coloidal silica was mixed with the polyester resin as a thickener.  The intent was that it would be white but instead the colour of the resin won out and the result was an aqua colour.  The thickened resin was applied to the four repair areas to fill any hollows and then sanded.  A second very thin layer of fairing compound was then applied almost as a skim coat.  Once this is sanded the areas will be coated with white gelcoat and sanded with 220 then 400 and 600 grit.  Following that rubbing compound.  It is our hope that this will blend in with the hull more or less.

sailboat bulkhead repair

Fairing coats complete.  Gelcoat brushed on

sailboat bulkhead repair

Closeup shot of repaired area.  Close but not exact colour match

sailboat bulkhead repair

Another shot this time from aft.  All four repaired areas are visible in this picture

Miscellaneous smaller repairs

With the major problems addressed we now had to turn to some smaller tasks that needed to be done prior to using the boat.  These included rebedding stbd jib track, relpacing stbd cam cleat and drilling and refilling the many holes on deck, in cockpit and on sea hood where hardware had at one time been installed. Once this is complete the bottom will be cleaned and painted and then the boat will be ready for the water.

sailboat bulkhead repair

Sea hood holes drilled and ready for fill

sailboat bulkhead repair

Sea hood holes filled with thickened resin

sailboat bulkhead repair

All the holes filled and ready for sanding

The deck, cockpit and sea hood of this boat had a larger number of holes from previously installed hardware.  Most of the holes had been sealed with resin but were not flush with the deck while those on the sea hood and cockpit seats had been filled with silicon and had some water intrusion.  Our plan was to drill all holes slightly larger, fill with thickened resin and then sand flush.  Any water in the core and associated rot would be addressed at a later date.  The good news is that all of the holes in the deck were filled with resin and water tight leaving only the sea hood and some areas of the cockpit with possible wet core.  In the above pictures you can see holes on the poop deck, cockpit seats forward of the traveller and less visible near the toerail and on bow.  This boat at one time had stanchions, pulpit, pushpit and lifelines.  When added to the sea hood that makes for a lot of possible places for water intrusion.

sailboat bulkhead repair

Starbord jib cleat needed to be replaced

sailboat bulkhead repair

New jib cleat in place

J boats usually have a cam cleat on a bulkhead or coaming beneath the winches for sheets and halyards.  The J22 is no exception.  The starboard jib cleat was broken and missing parts so was replaced with a shiney new cam cleat.

sailboat bulkhead repair

Fasteners for starbord jibtrack. 2nd bolt from front broken. The aft ones we had removed for bolt sizing

sailboat bulkhead repair

Jib track holes drilled larger and wet core dug out

sailboat bulkhead repair

Holes filled with thickened epoxy and sandy flush

sailboat bulkhead repair

Holes redrilled for installation of track

The starbord jib track had one bolt broken and showed obvious signs of leakage.  The track was removed, holes drilled larger, wet core dug out around edge of hole using an allen key.  Once this was completed the holes were filled with thickened epoxy, sanded flush with deck, redrilled for fasteners and the track rebedded.  Water can no longer get into core around these bolt holes

sailboat bulkhead repair

Ives Knoll washed, waxed, bottom painted and ready to go back in service

Frers 33 Persistence

J27 Nut Case

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rotted bulkhead repair

  • Thread starter sean
  • Start date Aug 6, 2005
  • Brand-Specific Forums
  • Other Sailboats

Can anyone suggest how to repair rotted bulkheads without hauling out dropping mast and completely replacing everything....  

Daniel Rabu

Just fixed mine I own a 1973 Ericson 32 which had some rot in the port bulkhead where the chainplate entered the deck. I removed the chainplate, dug out all the remouvable rot and applied copious amounts of "Git Rot" a penetrating epoxy that turns weak rotted out wood into "something" very strong and prevents further rot where applied. I then built up the area where there was void with filler mixed epoxy and "rebuilt" the rotted out area of bulkhead, then sanded it smooth. I had a new "L" shaped chainplate cut from stainless steel with the bottom of the "L" reaching the area of bulkhead that had no rot and drilled the holes to mount it. Seven bolts were through the good portion of the bulkhead and six were through the epoxy reinforced portion. Cut a new cover piece out of teak, sanded and varnished the whole thing and Bob's your uncle! It is stronger than before with the loads spread over a much larger area of the bulkhead. Make sure to caulk the cr.p out of the chainplate entry point in the deck with sikaflex or other. Not a drop of water has bothered me since. Sure beats replacing the entire bulkhead. Good luck. (Don't forget to polish the new stainless chainplate if you want it to remain "stain-less". I can you pics if you want. Daniel Rabu  

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IMAGES

  1. Sail Life

    sailboat bulkhead repair

  2. Sail Life

    sailboat bulkhead repair

  3. Replacing the water damaged bulkheads and bent chainplates in my Tanzer

    sailboat bulkhead repair

  4. Replacing a Major Structural Bulkhead in our Bluewater Sailboat

    sailboat bulkhead repair

  5. Pearson Ensign Sailboat Project

    sailboat bulkhead repair

  6. Sail Life

    sailboat bulkhead repair

VIDEO

  1. 28 foot sailboat bulkhead and chainplate repair

  2. Bulkhead Repair part 4

  3. Sailboat Bulkhead Rebuild #3

  4. Surprise Celebrity Cameo

  5. Quest Nº 11 The temporal shift & the bulkhead [The tales of a retired IOR boat ]

  6. S2 Sailboat Repairs Part 4 and launching

COMMENTS

  1. Replacing Damaged Bulkheads

    This entry was posted in Boat Repair, Fiberglass Boat Repair and tagged 20, bulkhead, Chicago to Mac Race, Dan Witucki, Epoxyworks #20, Evelyn 32-2, Fall 2002, RUSH, sailboat on November 7, 2014 by ewadmin. Post navigation ← G/5 Adhesive Tips Testing DCPD Blend Laminates →

  2. Replacing a Major Structural Bulkhead in our Bluewater Sailboat

    Want to help support our video productions? Join our One Life Crew here:https://www.patreon.com/SailingOneLifeBig thanks to TotalBoat for all their amazing s...

  3. Repairing Loose Bulkheads

    Using a disposable brush and putty knife, force the mixed resin into the gap between the bulkhead and fiberglass tabbing. Protect your hands with throwaway gloves as this is a messy job. A chemical respirator is recommended in the confined spaces of a boat bilge. Work quickly as the resin in the mixing pot will be "cooking."

  4. How to: Pick a Fixer-upper That's Worth Fixing Up

    Rotted plywood bulkheads. This is, unfortunately, an extremely common problem in production boats, especially around the bulkhead where the chainplates are attached. I once found what appeared to be a great deal (it wasn't) on a well-known production 27-footer. Cosmetically the boat looked good and was well equipped.

  5. Repair/Rebuild the Bulkhead / Titanium Chainplates When Re-rigging

    How to repair a bulkhead, and fix the tabbing on the hull of a sailboat before the titanium chain plates rip right out! Often Bulkhead repair is needed even ...

  6. How to replace bulkheads (Boat building) part 1

    In this video im working on my hunter 30 getting it ready for the sailing season. I noticed two of my chain plates where being pulled out of the deck. upon f...

  7. PDF Repairing Loose Bulkheads

    the boat. Bulkhead tabs repair are only as strong as the penetration of epoxy resin into the gap between the tab and the bulkhead. Small wooden wedges may be used to open this gap temporarily while resin is brushed into it. Cut shallow angle wedges from scrap wood. Two are needed. "Hop scotch" one wedge ahead of the other as you work around the ...

  8. Bulkhead replacement

    Apr 30, 2014. #12. If you go to the Catalina factory website, and look up the chain plate replacement kit, you'll find that now it is U bolts. They are mounted with an aluminum 90 degree "angle iron" plate. Another plate anchors the bulkhead to the bottom of the fiberglass shelf. This continues in the Stb side.

  9. Chain Plate Bulkhead Repair

    1) Cut and remove fiberglass tabs that hold bulkhead in. 2)once bulk head is out inspect entire bulkhead for dry rot. 3)every three inches or so drill a hole into bulkhead from the edge about 10inches into it. 4) inject penetraing epoxy into each hole. 5) let cure for a few days in the garage.

  10. Repairing plywood bulkhead

    Jan 12, 2021. #1. I'm in the process of doing some repairs on my '83 Ericson 30+. There is a small plywood bulkhead that is at the forward end of the V-berth, just under the anchor chain pan. It has extensive water damage with the part of the top cross piece and part of the starboard vertical section rotted through. The plywood is tabbed in place.

  11. Repairing a rotten bulkhead..

    I can't sail the boat untill this is repaired. Now the hard part is how do i repair this? Pretty much an area around the chainplate going out for 4-6'' in all directions is rotted. The rest of the bulkhead is solid. Ive been thinking i could just cut out the bad section and add in a new piece of wood and fibreglass it to the old bulkhead and hull.

  12. Rotten Bulkhead Repair

    Location: Carlsbad, CA. Boat: 1976 Sabre 28-2. Posts: 7,505. Re: Rotten Bulkhead Repair. You don't need or really want to use teak plywood. The teak is only a veneer with the rest of the plywood something else. AC exterior plywood would probably work just fine or marine ply if you don't care about the expense.

  13. Bulkhead replacement

    It a full day of work to pull and put the replacement back in. No matter how well you template the new bulkhead, there will need to be adjustments made that you'll discover upon installation. So bring a chisel and a good rasp as well as a belt sander. Total cost if I remember was about $250 with everything.

  14. Replacing a ROTTEN Bulkhead in an old Sailboat

    The only way to fix this ROTTEN BULKHEAD was to CUT IT OUT of this worn-out Liberty 458 restoration sailboat. Now… How am I going to get it back in?!?!I have...

  15. 1991 Formula 242 Stringer & Bulkhead Repairs w/ Many Pics

    Re: 1991 Formula 242 Stringer & Bulkhead Repairs. That sounds like a very logical and "do-able" plan. Here's a drawing of how I sister joints. Just a butt joint with 3/8" or 1/2" plywood 36" (18" to each side of joint) "Sisters" on both sides, epoxied and deck screwed into the stringers.

  16. Sailboat bulkhead material and Location

    54 posts · Joined 2006. #2 · May 5, 2008. I replaced my starboard side bulkhead recently and used marine plywood because I had ready access to it for a fair price. In retrospect, I am not sure it was necessary because I ended up coating the piece with epoxy and strengthing areas with additional layers of fabric.

  17. J22 Number 6 Ives Knoll

    J22 Ives Knoll - Main Bulkhead Replacement project. Our club J22 fleet is aging and two boats required new main bulkheads. This page documents the replacement on the main bulkhead in J22 #6 Ives Knoll due to rot at the port side chainplate. There are also some other minor repairs documented here. Ready for last glass work on a beautiful day.

  18. Sakha Republic

    Yakutia (officially Republic of Sakha) Constituent republic of the Russian Federation, in ne Siberia; the capital is Yakutsk.The region is bounded by the Laptev and East Siberian Seas (n) and the Stanovoy Range (s).It is the largest Russian republic and one of the coldest inhabited regions, with more than 40% of the territory within the Arctic Circle.

  19. Sail Life

    In this video, I do a bit of bulkhead beautification aka cover the bulkheads in 4 mm plywood. Link to webshop: https://saillifeshop.com/ *** Links ***Sail Li...

  20. rotted bulkhead repair

    Can anyone suggest how to repair rotted bulkheads without hauling out dropping mast and completely replacing everything.... Menu Menu. Search. Search titles only. By: Search ... Boat Info. Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com. Classifieds. Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale. Parts. General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina ...

  21. Sakha Republic

    Sakha, [a] officially the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia), [b] is the largest republic of Russia, located in the Russian Far East, along the Arctic Ocean, with a population of one million. [11] Sakha comprises half of the area of its governing Far Eastern Federal District, and is the world's largest country subdivision, covering over 3,083,523 square kilometers (1,190,555 sq mi). [12]

  22. Sister Cities: FNSB-Yakutsk

    In 1992, Yakutsk had a population of over 250,000 people, is the capital of the largest region in Russia, and is centered in an area of enormous natural resources. Yakutsk has Sister City agreements with Fairbanks, Alaska, USA, Guirin (China), Muroyama (Japan), and Darmstadt (Germany). The city is also the home of Yakutsk State University ...

  23. Sakha

    The Sakha (Yakut), a people who formed from the mixture of local tribes with Turkic groups that migrated from the south in the 6th-10th centuries ce, joined the Russian state in the first half of the 17th century.Yakutsk, the republic's largest city, was founded in 1632. In 1638 the Yakutsk province was established and the area was opened to Russians, who settled in the towns along the ...