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Parts of a Sailboat – The Deck
By: Zeke Quezada, ASA Learn To Sail , Sailboats
Understanding the deck of a sailboat is all part of learning to sail. Essentially, the deck of a boat is both your office and your supply cabinet. This is because many of the tools required to sail a vessel are on the deck.
Sailboats come in many shapes, sizes, and forms to meet the needs of sailors with various desires and ambitions. They also reflect the styles and ideas of their designers and builders and are considered by some sailors to be an art form. The illustrations below depict a boat about 33 feet long of fairly typical design above and below deck and fitted with basic systems commonly found on cruising boats.
The boat we are describing is typical of a boat you may be using as part of ASA 103 Basic Coastal Cruising — it’s more involved and some parts may not be found on a smaller daysailing vessel. However, there’s a lot more to a cruising boat than a cockpit and cuddy cabin. You can walk around on it, on deck, and below. And it has a few more features for which you’ll have to learn the nautical names.
Parts of the Deck of a Sailboat - Cruising Vessel
The Helm Smaller daysailers used for ASA Basic Keelboat courses often have a tiller; this boat has a steering wheel. While it’s possible to steer this big of a boat with a tiller, and many sailors prefer the feel and response it gives when sailing, the tiller needed to provide sufficient leverage would be quite long. The wheel offers the same or even more leverage while taking up much less space in the cockpit — much of the linkage system that connects it to the rudder is beneath the cockpit.
The Cockpit The cockpit of a cruising sailboat serves as the command center and focal point of activity while sailing. It is typically located in the recessed area of the deck where the helmsman sits or stands, and it often features storage lockers under the seats. The functionality of the cockpit is essential for helming, sail trimming, watchkeeping, and other sailing activities.
Modern boat designs have prioritized bigger, taller, and more comfortable living quarters over the functionality of the cockpit. As a result, cockpit ergonomics involve more than comfortable seating and coaming angles. Wide-beam boats benefit from a large diameter wheel, allowing the helmsman to steer on the windward rail where sight lines are unimpeded by a dodger, mast, or headsail.
Some boats have every sail-control line led to the cockpit, which requires additional blocks or sheaves to be added to the running rigging system.
The cockpit is self-bailing — it’s high enough above the waterline that any water that gets into it can drain overboard by gravity. Water drains through scuppers (they look like large bathtub drains) in the aft corners of the cockpit well.
Sailing is not all tacking and jibing; the cockpit also serves as the boat’s porch, lounge, and dining room. The seats are designed to provide support and comfort when sailing and at rest.
Cockpit Stowages Daysailers carry a fair amount of ancillary gear — dock lines, fenders, and safety gear — and a boat equipped for cruising carries a great deal more. All this stuff has to go somewhere so it’s not underfoot while the boat’s sailing, so a lot of it goes in the cockpit lockers.
A hatch in the cockpit seat typically opens to reveal a deep locker. Such a locker is large enough to hold lots of gear, including an extra sail or two. Keeping it organized can be challenging but necessary, not so that you can find a spare line in a hurry but because often the same locker also provides access to some critical fixed equipment. That equipment may include the engine and the steering gear. Another shallow locker may exist in the cockpit, but this one is shallow because the space below is used as part of the living quarters. Finally, at the helm, you may find a hatch or two that provide access to the steering gear and other systems.
Obstacles on the Deck Obstacles are inevitable on the deck of a sailboat. When navigating on the deck, make sure to always reserve a hand for the boat to ensure your safety, maintaining three points of contact. If sailing, the safest path forward is along the windward side. Always use the handrails to keep your body closer to the boat.
Sidedeck Your first obstacle when leaving the cockpit to go forward on the deck is the cockpit coaming, which extends aft of the trunk cabin, the area of the deck that’s raised to provide headroom in the cabin below.
Stepping over the cockpit coaming brings you onto the side deck, which runs between the trunk cabin and the outside edge of the deck (which is often referred to as the rail because of the toerail attached there to provide secure footing).
Just inside the toerail are the stanchions that support the lifelines.
As you move forward, you will encounter the shrouds, the wires that support the mast laterally. They attach to the deck at the chainplates which carry the forces generated by the sails into the structure of the hull.
Between the lower end of each wire shroud and its chainplate is a turnbuckle, which is used to tension the shroud by adjusting its length. A clevis pin connects the turnbuckle to the chainplate and a cotter pin passed through a hole on the end of the clevis pin prevents the clevis pin from backing out. Cotter pins are also fitted through the screws in the turnbuckles so they cannot unscrew and loosen.
Foredeck When you walk forward of the mast, you come to the foredeck. Most modern sailboats have roller-furling sails, so you will not be changing a headsail on the foredeck, but you will still utilize this space when anchoring and docking.
Fairleads on each side of the bow direct docklines to two large mooring cleats mounted on the deck.
The anchor can be found on the foredeck and is usually stowed on a stemhead fitting. This setup makes for a much easier deployment of the anchor. The stemhead fitting is a hefty stainless-steel fabrication that incorporates a roller fairlead for the anchor rode and the chainplate for the forestay. A hatch in the foredeck covers the anchor locker where the rode is stowed ready for use.
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READ: Parts of a Sailboat — The Keel
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Cabin trunk
The center section of the deck is raised to form the cabin trunk, giving standing room in the cabin below. The deck in this area must be particularly strong and is reinforced to support the mast, standing rigging and sail handling equipment. The roof also has to be strong enough to withstand the pressure of large breaking waves. The small cabin windows (or lights) must be watertight. Ventilators, set into the roof allow air into the cabin. Grab-rails arc fitted along each side of the roof to provide a hold for the crew when working on deck.
Forward hatch
The forward hatch is normally fitted into the front end of the cabin trunk. Made from toughened plexiglass with a watertight seal, it is primarily for light and ventilation in the forepeak when moored, but it can also be used for easy access to the sail stowage area below. However, it should always be kept firmly closed when under way or water may enter the cabin.
Spinnaker pole stowage
The spinnaker pole is normally stowed on the forward area of one of the side decks. The most secure arrangement is to clip it onto two specially designed brackets bolted onto the deck.
On each side of the raised trunk roof run the narrow side decks. The deck edge is finished off with a raised section to prevent anyone slipping under the lifelines. The stanchions are bolted through the side decks and often incorporate eyes at the base for clipping on your harness lifeline. The headsail sheet lead tracks are set on each side deck just forward
Headsail sheet lead track of the cockpit. These allow the sheeting angle to be adjusted.
Companion way
The main access to the cabin is through the companionway. This is usually sited at the aft end of the cabin trunk and is closed by a sliding hatch and washboards (wooden partitions). The hatch should be kept closed while sailing to prevent water entering the cabin. Grab handles, fitted inside the companionway, provide a secure hold when going below or coming on deck, even when the boat is heeling.
Continue reading here: Rigging the mainsail
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From the bow to the stern
A sailing holiday is a holiday at sea... with a vitamin boost!
In fact, a sailing boat (I'm talking about a sailing boat, but what I've said is also valid for catamarans). Even if the size can feel relatively small, sailing boats hide lots of well-thought and organized spaces, each with its own peculiarities that we will discover during our holiday.
We will (soon) realize that some places are perfect for certain activities, while in others we will enjoy other moments of the day.
The sailing boat is a privileged point of view for a holiday at sea because it allows us to experience the sea... from the sea! This is no small detail...
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Let's start with the basics: what are the parts of a sailing boat .
A sailboat has a tapered shape. The front part is called the bow, whilst the back part is the stern.
Sailboats of the type we will be referring to here are called cabin boats because they have a living space inside the hull - namely, the cabin. Another aspect that identifies cabin boats is the keel's presence: a heavy ballast that ensures that it cannot tip over under any conditions. A cabin boat is clearly divided into an upper and lower section.
Above and below what? Above and below deck. The deck, otherwise known as the bridge, is the boat's outer surface, the one we walk on when we are outside. If we want to compare this space to your home, above you'll find the living area, and below, you'll have the sleeping area. It is above that we will spend most of our day on holiday, including meals.
The exterior and the cockpit
The external area is divided into three or four parts: Starting from the stern (we generally enter the boat from the rear, so this is in a sense our front door), we have the cockpit, which is the heart of the boat, this is where we will live most of our day, especially in summer. Bounded at the stern by the little beach and at the bow by the hatch, the opening that allows you to go below deck, the cockpit is a kind of living room of 4/6 square meters.
The cockpit, bordered by benches with soft cushions, features a helm wheel with all the nautical instruments and a superbly equipped table with lights, cup holders, and storage space for drinks and snacks.
You'll also find everything you might need to have at hand while sailing (sunglasses, hats, sun cream). The cockpit is naturally sheltered by the protected position, partially inserted inside the hull. The awning, also known as the bimini, shelters the cockpit from the sun (and rain). The canopy, also known as the sprayhood, shelters it from wind and water splashes. There is a central area in the middle of the boat with two walkways at the sides, mainly occupied by sail rigging but perfect for sunbathing as it is flat and a triangular area in the bow.
Exterior and the cockpit of a Beneteau Oceanis 46.1
Interior and dinette
After getting off, we will have the dinette, a sort of multifunctional living area with a small but well-equipped kitchen (two gas burners, two sinks, fresh and seawater at will, an under-sink fridge with a mini freezer).
Interior and dinette of a Beneteau Oceanis 51.1
As in every house in every dinette, there is a table and chairs. Often the table is foldable to obtain two additional beds for friends passing through. On modern boats, this area, once the skipper's kingdom, is increasingly becoming the boat's technological heart, from all the monitoring takes place: the position of the boat, the battery charge, the water and fuel level, the switching on of all on-board equipment. For us, it's also where we charge our mobile phones.
This space is overlooked by the cabins and one or more bathrooms, small but very functional, in some cases with a separate shower. A sailboat, as the name implies, is characterised by the presence of sails. Sails are kept in position by the mast, which is made of aluminium. The mast is supported by strong steel cables: the one by the bow is called the forestay (to which the sail is wrapped around to form a soft sausage). The one at the stern, the forestay, often splits to facilitate boarding.
It is also excellent support for not one but two points of support.
On the right and left sides, the mast, which can be more than 15 metres high and is subjected to considerable strain, is supported by shrouds, one or more on each side, which reach right up to the outer side of the boat and are perfect for supporting it as it passes from stern to bow. In this article, I would like to point out two parts of the boat that I am sure you will appreciate to the fullest on your next sailing holiday. The first is the calling card of every holiday sailing boat, the stern platform, which can often be folded down. It is a platform on the surface of the water almost as wide as the boat itself, and its depth varies. Still, it is always enough to get in and out of the water and do all your favourite activities: yoga, diving, a snack, a nice shower or simply enjoy the moment with your feet underwater...
Deck of the sailing yacht from above
This delightful little balcony overlooking the sea also allows easy access on board in all conditions. The second is the bow of the boat itself, where the anchor winch is located. This area is often enhanced by a seat where we can sit back and watch the landscape change, "it's something I really like to do, especially on long motorboats," says Caterina, who has just returned from the Cyclades.
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Elan Impression 45
Keep in mind while you're comfortably sitting on the bow and enjoying the scenery, not to end up in the water. You don't need to hold on with your hands. A good way is to put your legs on opposite sides of a candlestick.
A candlestick?!
Our boat is surrounded by a sort of safety railing: Let's see what it looks like: First of all, it is made up of rigid parts consisting of sturdy steel tube railings generally present at the bow and stern (pulpit) and flexible parts consisting of a set of vertical steel tubes firmly fixed to the deck of the boat (the stanchions) joined together by horizontal stainless steel cables (the dragnets).
A fine-meshed safety net can often be attached to these, which is advisable if there are children on board. What about you? What are your favourite parts of the boat?
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Cruising Sailboats – Parts and Features
Compared to a Dinghy or other Small Boats, a Cruising Sailboat has more parts and features to suit the needs of people on board as well as the demands of Cruising. As the main equipment in this Sailing Variation, it is essential for all the people on board to know the different functions of each section in the Sailboat.
A Cruising Sailboat can be divided into three general components – Rigs, Deck, and the Cabin. Know the different parts, features, and functions of each component in the following sections:
Cruising Sailboat Parts – Rig
The Rig is the collective term, which refers to the Mast, Standing Rigging, spars, and the type and number of Sails by which the type is determined. For instance, a Rig with a Bermudan sloop is called a Bermudan sloop rig.
This is the unit that propels the Cruising Sailboat. It is the structure that derives energy from the Wind. Rigs have many parts and variations. In this section, know the different elements that make up the Rig:
Mainsail and Sails
The type of Rig lies in the number of Sails and the type of Mainsail. The Bermudan Mainsail is the commonly used type.
Cruising Sailboats can have different layouts of Standing Rigging, Running Rigging, and Sails. Here are the components of Rigs:
- Forestay – The forestay is a wire or rope that runs from the bow to the masthead, and together with the backstay (which runs from the masthead to the stern), supports the mast fore and aft. A headsail may be attached to it.
- Backstay – a wire running from the masthead to the stern
- Shroud – a wire or rope which supports the Mast up and gives additional support by increasing the angle created by the Spreader and the Mast at the attachment point
- Spreader – supports the Mast and keeps the Shrouds away from the Mast
- Halyard – a line or rope which raises or pulls up the sail
- Mainsheet – A line or rope This controls the angle of the mainsail to the boat’s centerline. There is only one mainsheet, which is attached to the boom and is rigged as a multi-part tackle to provide power to adjust it. On larger boats, a winch is used to adjust the mainsheet.
As mentioned earlier, Rigging and Sails are very important in Cruising, for they are the ones that drive the boat. Know the components of Rigs as well as their functions so that boat handling will be easier and enjoyable.
Sailboat Deck Parts
Modern sailboats have a lot of fittings above deck, including the components of the spars and sails together with the ropes and hardware that controls them. Other equipment is needed for anchoring, mooring, and helping ensure the safety of the crew. Make sure you understand the purpose of the equipment on your boat.
The deck is the area or platform which is especially – designed for the operation of the Cruising Sailboat. Aside from being the primary working surface, it serves as the ‘lid’ of the Hull of the Sailboat and helps in strengthening it. Decks vary in structure or layout, depending on the type of Cruising Sailboat.
The deck holds many essential pieces of gear and equipment used in boat handling. In this section, know what these parts are and learn the role each of them plays in boat operations.
These Are The Deck Parts of a Typical Sailboat
- Foredeck : The part of the deck in front of the Mast
- Pulpit : A metal frame located at the bow of the boat; this is where forward Navigation lights are fastened
- Pushpit : A metal frame located at the stern of the boat; this is where stern Navigation lights and lifebuoys are attached
- Anchor well : It is a self-draining well just aft of the pulpit holds the anchor cable and often the anchor.
- Sidedecks : Spaces between the edge of the deck and the raised Cabin trunk (if any)
- Coach Roof : Serves as the cover of the raised Cabin trunk
- Hatches : Openings which allow light and ventilation in the Cabin
- Cockpit : The primary working place of the boat
- Sprayhood : Covers and protects the Cockpit Genoa Car : Found on Sidedecks; track where the fairleads for the headsail sheet run
- Lockers : Storage compartments usually located under the seats in the Cockpit
- Sheet Winches : Winches are used to control sails, which produce loads larger than the crew can manage by hand. Most modern yachts have self-tailing winches that allow one-person operation. Winches without self-tailing jaws require two people to winch the rope—one person to wind the winch and the other to pull on the end, which is known as “tailing.”
- Lifelines : Lines that run from the Pulpit to the Pushpit on either side of the Deck
These are the basic things that you will see on the deck. Each is necessary when it comes to boat handling and other aspects of Cruising, so it is important to know how to use them properly.
Moreover, make sure to be careful when moving around the deck. Losing one’s footing and tripping on Deck gear are common when unwary crew members are on the deck.
Cruising Sailboat – Cabin Parts
One interesting component of Cruising Sailboats is the Cabin. This is the area that is nestled down in the Sailboat’s Hull. The size of the Cabin area generally depends on the length and height of the boat.
Obviously, there is just enough room for the basic gear and stuff in small Cruising Sailboats, while larger ones have spacious Cabins that can accommodate other things.
Like Rigs, the layout or arrangement of the parts of a Cabin may vary in different kinds of Cruising Sailboats.
Take a Look At The Basic Parts of a Typical Cabin:
- Galley: This is the kitchen area. It should be kept clean since this is the place for preparing food while onboard. It should also be equipped with a stove that is securely placed, so it stays upright. Moreover, a Galley must have relatively deep sinks. The kitchen equipment in the Galley will depend on the necessity and space available. Aside from the pans, plates, and utensils, you may add other culinary tools that you need if the space allows it.
- Chart Table: A navigator needs a place for Navigation and plotting work. This is where the Navigation Tools, nautical books and manuals, and some Communication Devices are placed.
- Head: This compartment usually has a marine toilet, washbasin, and lockers. All crew members need to understand how to use this. Otherwise, the unpleasant job of repairing the toilet will be necessary.
- Saloon: The Part of the Cabin for entertainment is called the Saloon. It should have a pleasant ambiance for relaxation. It must be well-ventilated with good handholds, or appendages to hold on to when the boat heels.
- Berth: Sometimes called the sleeping quarter, Berth is the area where crew members can rest and sleep. Install lee-cloths on the sea Berth to prevent yourself from falling off the Berth when the boat heels or during rough conditions.
Maximizing space is essential in a Cruising Sailboat, so make sure to store your gear and other personal stuff securely and adequately so the Cabin will stay tidy even when under rough conditions.
Cruising Sailboats – Parts and Features – Conclusion
These are the basic components of a Cruising Sailboat. Keep in mind that you need to know the different features of the boat in order to have a safe and enjoyable experience.
Also Read: Must-Have Boat Safety Equipment For Sailing
Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.
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Simple Tips to Improve Boat Ventilation
As ventilation experts explored ways to make indoor spaces safer during the COVID-19 pandemic, we became curious about ventilation in our boats. What products and practices ensure that we maximize the volume of air exchange belowdecks, as measured in cubic feet per hour (CFH)?
While this exchange of fresh air provides direct benefit to our health, it also provides an indirect benefit by preventing the growth of mold and mildew. Generally, to successfully combat mold in any given space you need at least one air change per hour, and for boats from 25-40 feet that is about 700-1800 CFH. Good ventilation also helps remove warm moist air created during cooking that can condense on the inside of the cabin—creating the moist environment that mold loves.
We’ve looked at ventilation dozens of time over the past 10 years, but most of those previous studies focused on a particular product group—fans, hatches, vents, opening portlights, or air-conditioning systems. In the September 2020 issue we narrow the focus to passive ventilation—cowl vents, dorades, hatches, “wind scoops,” and other ways to boost the exchange of air on board without any mechanical assistance.
Boats are relatively small spaces, and you’d think that it would be easy to keep interior air fresh with a few ports and hatches. As it turns out, where you install your inlet and exhaust vents is as important as the kind of vent (hatch, port, or vent) you use.
Most sailors know that wind blowing across a uniformly smooth surface such as the leeward side of a well-trimmed sail creates a region of reduced pressure. Just as we can use the resulting suction on the leeward side of a sail to pull the boat forward, we can use pressure differentials in the air surrounding the cabin to maximize the ventilation belowdeck.
Understanding the pressure differentials created by the flow of wind over our boat’s deck is vital to the success of any passive ventilation scheme. Mapping this flow (see the below image), helps explain why some areas of the boat seem stuffier than others. It also explains why passive ventilation methods did so poorly in our testing.
Your boat’s cabin trunk has a number of pressure zones, and these zones change depending on the wind direction. At anchor, the front of the cabin trunk is an area of high pressure, and this pressure reduces slightly as you move aft. The pressure differential between locations along the cabin top on depends many factors, including the shape of the cabin and any items on deck that might interfere with flow. In general, the pressure is lowest just behind the front edge of the cabin trunk, slowly rising to neutral pressure as you move aft—depending on the extent of turbulence caused at the front of the cabin trunk or by other interruptions in the smooth surface that would disrupt the flow of wind.
The companionway area has the lowest pressure. Open a hole anywhere forward and air will be sucked out the companionway. In a breeze, the pressure differential is usually so great that air will push out through gaps in the weatherstripping, escaping even if the companionway hatch closed.
Maximizing air-flow through cowl vents is trickier than it might seem. Air-flow can be interrupted not only by insufficient pressure differential, but also by turbulence. The vertical cabin-sides, dinghies stored on deck, masts, changes in wind direction, and even other cowls can dramatically reduce the amount of wind that reaches the cowl.
The most complicated case is when you keep the boat at a dock with everything buttoned up. The wind can blow from any direction, and depending on the amount of protection afforded by the harbor and neighboring boats, the wind will be light most of the time.
Bottom line: Although many passive vents are rated by CFH, these ratings don’t tell the whole story. Flow will vary greatly depending on the location of the vent, and since the rated CFH is typically based on a 10 knot breeze, the rating won’t give a clear picture of air flow when your boat is at the dock. At many marinas around the U.S., the true wind at deck level is less than 5 knots most of the time.
For more on ventilation, see the September 2020 issue of Practical Sailor. If defeating mildew is your main objective, our eBook The Mildew-free Boat will cover everything you need. If boosting breeze belowdecks is your primary aim, the following related Practical Sailor tests will help you improve the flow of air down below.
Ventilation Can be Improved on Any Boat
Deck Vents: Nicros Water Trap and Plastimos Cool n Dry are Clever and Effective
Fabric Hatch Vents: The Breeze Booster Outdraws Windscoop
How to Measure Boat Humidity: Psychrometric Charts Do it Right
Onboard Amenities: Endurance test of 12-volt Fans Wraps Up
Cabin Fan Test Returns
Cabin Fan Test: Hella, Caframo Blow Best Breeze for the Buck
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On watch: this 60-year-old hinckley pilot 35 is also a working girl.
Because my last boat (a J/24) stunk of mold, I came up with a solution for my current 38’ sloop that I can recommend without hesitation. I’ve installed an inexpensive modular ‘daisy chain’ of DC USB ‘computer’ fans underneath and behind the boat’s beds, cabinets, and seating areas. The hidden & silent fans are UL Listed and connected to each other via USB-to-USB extension cables (with inline fuse). The fans are each rated to run for 10 years and I’ve run them continuously for the past 5 years with no problems. The fans are all oriented in harmony to increase airflow circulation belowdecks…in and around all of the many spaces where humid air tends to stagnate, and (combined with the Practical Sailor recommended Eva-Dry 2200 dehumidifier) have completely eliminated ‘that boat smell’ caused by mold, etc.. The fans are each rated to run for 10 years and move 64 cubic feet per minute of air, and entire system cost me less than $100 on Amazon. I can recommend it without hesitation.
In light air, no fetch, anchor off the stern. Leave the dodger and Bimini up. Open all hatches, put up the mosquito netting, and the dodger / Bimini act like a BIG wind scoop. The breeze is great and is especially welcome below when the bugs on deck are wrecking your romantic dinner.
We’ve been very pleased with the performance of Karecel fans, which are small and recharge with a USB plug. They have 3 speeds and are nearly silent. We got them from Amazon and the come in black or white. For the price ($18), you can’t beat them.
Your comment above: “The companionway area has the lowest pressure”, conflicts with your diagram showing average pressure at the companionway. Where’s the truth?
If there is one area that needs intensive product improvement it’s marine ventilation! solar vent fans havent been properly updated since the 80’s (and the prices are utterly unjustifiable). There are of course beautiful and justifiably pricey scoops etc in Bronze etc but most of the plastic and resin originated items just don’t address the need for forced air and energy sources most available to small to medium size yachts….Solar solar solar! modular design! micro connectors to discreetly run solar power to various fittings….scoops that really seal, fans that blow and are efficient actually last 5 years! no lousy rusting parts! The biggest culprits are the companies managing the few solar fan products out there….Someone needs to take the challenge and design a growing array of good (affordable) devices to render the interior of yachts habitable! W ith plastic casting and current solar technology there is no excuse for the scarcity of effective devices!
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Yacht Design: The Middeck Matters
- By Alvah Simon
- Updated: October 4, 2013
To compensate
High-tech materials, new construction techniques, and shifting priorities have combined to drive such significant changes in modern yacht design as stylized and spacious interiors, twin helms, and gargantuan cockpit/outdoor entertainment areas.
Lost in the shuffle is the middeck real estate on our vessels.
After all, we steer from the back, anchor from the front, and merely pass through the middle, right? Perhaps, but even this taken-for- granted territory merits our attention. Is there proper nonskid? Is the passage forward convenient? Can the sailing tasks that still must be executed at the mast be done so safely? Let’s start with what might be called the middeck terrain. The traditional squared-off trunk cabin,so configured because of structural requirements inherent to building in wood, has all but disappeared from the modern fleet. Designers sought sleeker lines and less windage. enter the forward-tapering cabin and semi-flush deck. The resulting low cabin sides can no longer accommodate large opening ports, so to counter the loss of interior light and ventilation, a plethora of deck hatches have been added. Hatch sills have progressively shrunk in profile until the absolutely flush hatch with recessed drainage gutters is nearly standard. this, coupled with their size and numbers, make them areas of likely footfall, necessitating uncompromised structural integrity. in other words, there’s no place for “no step” warnings on an active sailing vessel.
| |Aboard my own steel cutter, Roger Henry , the midships mast pulpit is safe, practical, and serves multiple purposes. Alas, this very handy feature is disappearing from modern cruisers.|
One downside to the low-slung cabin is that handholds are now often positioned just above ankle level, rendering them close to useless for upright sailors. One exception is found on top of the increasingly popular raised-deck-saloon models, which elevates these handholds to a viable level for at least a portion of the journey forward. Anticipating an aging demographic, Gerry Douglas of Catalina Yachts designed a full-length trunk cabin with handholds at the same level as the solid lifelines. In theory, this “walker” approach can extend our careers on the water exponentially.
The old raised-rail handholds have fallen victim to the quest for clean, sharp lines. Handholds are now hidden under long runs of recessed wood or a shallow gutter molded into the cabin top, losing some functionality. Such manufacturers as Passport, Oyster, Moody, and Tartan still believe that dorade vents offer superior ventilation, and these builders usually install them with protective cages. They double as excellent handholds all the way to the foredeck.
| |Aboard this powerful, well-crafted Oyster 625, the shrouds, sail tracks, lines, and winches have all been positioned inboard, a clever way to keep the side decks free of obstructions.|
The flow forward on a side deck is influenced by a combination of three things: the width of said deck; the placement, inboard or outboard, of the chainplates,and the height of the first spreader, which determines the angle at which the lower aft shroud connects to the deck tang. In extreme cases, this shroud is a “neck stretcher” that requires a nimble pirouette to pass beneath. In the best cases, one can move forward unimpeded, never losing at least a one-handed contact with the ship.
But foot contact is every bit as important for safety, and that relies not only on an effective nonskid but also on its strategic placement. We tend to think of safety in the simplest terms of staying aboard the craft. But even a modest slide into a sharp piece of deck hardware can result in a serious cut, broken toe, or severe sprain. There are no small medical emergencies a thousand miles from land. The aforementioned multiple hatches constitute (and compromise) too much of the square footage of the modern deck to be avoided with certainty, and they therefore must be properly covered with nonskid.
Perhaps to facilitate easy extraction from manufacturing molds, many designs terminate the nonskid short of the cabin edge, leaving alarming expanses of smooth gelcoat. The only slippery slopes I want to ski down are in the Rocky Mountains.
| |Island Packet designer Bob Johnson employs outboard chainplates, full-length trunk cabins with raised handrails, coated lifelines, and substantial raised bulwarks instead of toerails.|
Various nonskid patterns are available, from the traditional slatted teak to molded or raised dimples, diamonds, squiggles, and squares. The more aggressive, the better, but all should be optimized for specifically designed deck shoes or sea boots.
Especially for when a boat’s on a savage heel, a retaining boundary to the deck is a must. While I prefer a pronounced bulwark (which stiffens the stanchions and helps keep sheets and dropped objects from falling overboard), even a single inch of toerail can provide a lifesaving foot grip. Many manufacturers prefer the ease of a perforated, aluminum, bolt-on toerail. If well designed and soundly fastened, snatchblocks can be attached anywhere along the length of a toerail. This is a handy feature, although to most sailors, a varnished wooden rail is more aesthetically pleasing, and several well-placed padeyes can serve the same function.
Both multihulls and monohulls are now designed for aft entry into the cockpit, and several major manufacturers have eliminated amidships gates entirely. But aft entry isn’t always possible in certain sea conditions or when a vessel is tied to the dock, so old-fashioned gates still serve their purpose. Several designers have cleverly incorporated a drop-down gate that doubles as a boarding/swim ladder.
| |Dedicated stainless-steel cages over dorade vents not only protect the fittings from getting stepped on; if they’re strategically placed along or near side decks, they also serve as convenient handholds for sailors moving forward or aft.|
| |Standing rigging can present challenges to designers. On this little sloop, the angle of the lower shroud, combined with the middeck placement of the chainplates, seriously ob-structs safe passages on these very narrow side decks.|
| |Even a single inch of toerail can offer a life-saving foothold. There are three main types: raised bulwarks, wooden (or faux wood) rails, and alumi- num (perforated or solid). Even relatively stable multi- hulls should have solid toerails.|
| |There are several issues with this side deck. By placing the stanchions several inches inboard, the width has been narrowed and compromised. And the headsail furling line, adjacent to the boarding gate, can be easily tripped over.|
An amidships cleat seems a trivial detail until you chafe your expensive teak rubrail and dock lines because of foul leads. These cleats can be mounted on the toerails or on the deck inside the toerail and accessed via open or captive chocks or at the deck’s edge in a break in the rubrail. While handy, amidships cleats do tend to foul flagging sheets. recessed or folding cleats are a simple solution, as are after-market cleat covers.
The French first popularized mast pulpits. Because of the growing trend to lead the running rigging aft to the cockpit, sojourns forward to the mast are increasingly unnecessary. Thus, these hip-high retaining bars face extinction. nevertheless, I remain a staunch advocate of mast pulpits. Without restricting the free run of the lanyard safety hook, such mast pulpits keep the jacklines well inboard, a real safety plus. I can stand on the bars of my pulpit to haul down a recalcitrant mainsail, easily access my mast steps, or look ahead in coral-strewn water. I can work from the lee side of the mast on even the harshest of heels because the bars hold me inboard while freeing up both hands. I temporarily attach fenders and spare lines to the bars, and I keep a permanent stowage bag draped beneath them to store foredeck paraphernalia.
While leading all the running rigging aft to the cockpit may be convenient for shorthanded sailing, all the sheets, halyards, outhauls, vang, and reefing lines can give the middeck area the look of a harpsichord. new problems spawn new solutions requiring new nomenclature, like sea hoods. these false decks cover the lines, and by doing so, create open areas for lounging or dinghy stowage. potential downsides include restricted access for cleaning inside the sizable hood and reeving runaway lines again through the narrow leads. special attention must be paid to the entry and outlets of lines for smooth and fair leads to prevent hidden chafe.
As a final small detail, deck caps for diesel, water, and waste are most often positioned in the middeck area. these should be well labeled, perhaps even color coded, and preferably separated in such a way that they’re never accidentally filled with the wrong fluid.
| |Running rigging is often led through false decks called sea hoods. Here, the headsail track obstructs the side deck.|
In summary, remember that every jaunt to the foredeck results in two trips through the amidships area. Whether you’re upgrading your present boat or searching for that shiny new one, factor into your decisions all those elements relating to the safety and function of the middeck area, for it’s figuratively and literally central to good yacht design.
CW contributing editor Alvah Simon is in the midst of a major refit of his 36-foot steel cutter, Roger Henry. Click here for more in our Design Trends series.
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 Sailboat & Marine Parts, Hardware and SuppliesLog in or Sign upYou are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser . solid Iroko cabin trunkDiscussion in ' Wooden Boat Building and Restoration ' started by John Dickie , May 14, 2020 .  John Dickie Junior MemberHi Rumars, the plans appear to say 2&half inch #12 bronze screws Hi Bajansailor, here's a photo. Doing deck seams with Jeffries Marin e Glue-plagued by bubbles. Attached Files:Img_20200515_102845.jpg, img_20200515_102936.jpg, img_20191014_164959.jpg.  Rumars Senior MemberNice boat. Interesting decking pattern. The bubbles in Jeffries can be smoothed out with a big soldering iron. I would laminate the sides with 6-8mm veneers. Then I would probably deviate from the plans and glue the sides to the carlins, beside screwing it to them and a toepiece outside. Thanks all for the unput. I will steam bend with a backing strsp and scarf afterwards. The curve is 270mm,as I changed the trunk curvature to match the deck plank curvature. Wish me luck I hope it all goes well and you post pictures. Will do, but will be a month or so. 10days and a third of the way caulking the deck..... You may want to present your project to the good people at forum.woodenboat.com There are people there who did (and some still do) this kind of thing for a living. steam bending toe rail components Timber to be bent in foreground, bending jig centre, steambox behind, leverage at right Timber with backing strap on bending jig Making rectangular Spruce main mast and Douglas Fir Mizzen.This is looking down on the mast step of a 35ft steel ketch:its a 35mm thick "teak" plank bolted to 8mm steel T step.Its looking a bit puny to me.I would appreciate any opinions. The plank is mostly there to keep the mastfoot from sliding around when stepped. Once loaded all the compression forces go into the steel. I would recommend some kind of weephole(s) so any moisture can escape. If you want it more sturdy weld a box with outside gusstes to the step instead of the plank.  gonzo Senior MemberThat is a really nice job. The metric tape will confuse many people on this side of the ocean Thanks Rumars,Gonzo,maybe I'm over-thinking the forces on the mast heel.I was just suprised how long 13.6m is,and just how heavy a 102kg bare pole is. John
 fallguy Senior MemberIt is really beautiful. I have little to offer here beyond marveling at the work. Keep giving us little dog treats of pictures. Thanks.
 
How to fix cracked trunk???
 Welcome Erik, Is your boat a Mac 26D? Is that the inside of the daggerboard trunk? If so you'll need to grind away almost all of existing fiberglass that has been damaged while still leaving enough to be able to lay over the new fiberglass. You should be careful to preserve the exact shape and size of the trunk to allow the daggarboard to fit as it is supposed to.  more details pls. where exactly is that picture? and where is the leak? AFAIK, the water in the ballast doesn't extend more than a few feet from the bottom of the boat. -is that from the bottom of the boat? MrBill_FLL said: more details pls. where exactly is that picture? and where is the leak? AFAIK, the water in the ballast doesn't extend more than a few feet from the bottom of the boat. -is that from the bottom of the boat? Click to expand  "In my opinion the daggerboard was to low in the trunk, that gave to much forces to the trunk and daggerboard." ....And someone hit bottom/something. The pressure of the water pushing back isn't enough to do that. I have seen the inside of my ballast ware the BD goes. Its allot thicker fiberglass. First I wouldn't be too concerned as my ballast leaks like a sieve from the fill area. (old gasket) As long as its not causing the builge to fill with water via the hole in the valve area or valve top hole. Now to fix it: You will have to sand the area very well. (I would use a dowel with sandpaper wrapped on it.) Then clean it with assitone and patch with a piece of cloth about 2" bigger than the hole all around. You will have to use your stick to get the glass up there and smoothed over. I would probably use two pieces of glass. (There isn't allot of room left after the DB is inserted.) One 1" bigger than the hole and the other 2 bigger. When you are done sand it lightly to get any rough edges off. Sail. picture is from the front looking back. Attachments pretty much what finding41 said. you might try adding some silica or talc powder to the fiberglass to make it a bit thicker and it won't sag so much. also might try a drill and a dowel wrapped in sandpaper too.. you're sure it leaks? filled with a hose, the closed ballast on the trailer and see it leaking? fwiw, my stopper knot drops the daggerboard 36" max. finding41 said: "In my opinion the daggerboard was to low in the trunk, that gave to much forces to the trunk and daggerboard." ....And someone hit bottom/something. The pressure of the water pushing back isn't enough to do that. I have seen the inside of my ballast ware the BD goes. Its allot thicker fiberglass. First I wouldn't be too concerned as my ballast leaks like a sieve from the fill area. (old gasket) As long as its not causing the builge to fill with water via the hole in the valve area or valve top hole. Now to fix it: You will have to sand the area very well. (I would use a dowel with sandpaper wrapped on it.) Then clean it with assitone and patch with a piece of cloth about 2" bigger than the hole all around. You will have to use your stick to get the glass up there and smoothed over. I would probably use two pieces of glass. (There isn't allot of room left after the DB is inserted.) One 1" bigger than the hole and the other 2 bigger. When you are done sand it lightly to get any rough edges off. Sail. picture is from the front looking back. Click to expand I would check under the sink in front of the DB. Its kind of a pain getting in there. I usually stick my BlackBerry in someplace tight and take a picture. (That's how I took the pic I posted.) Come to think of it I always use my BB as a camera. (IPhone guys, Ha!) When you patch the crack make sure your patch is bigger than the crack by about 2" on every side. Remember after sanding to wash the area with assatone before you put the patch on! finding41 said: I would check under the sink in front of the DB. Its kind of a pain getting in there. I usually stick my BlackBerry in someplace tight and take a picture. (That's how I took the pic I posted.) Come to think of it I always use my BB as a camera. (IPhone guys, Ha!) When you patch the crack make sure your patch is bigger than the crack by about 2" on every side. Remember after sanding to wash the area with assatone before you put the patch on! Click to expand MC26erik said: Did you took that photo inside the watertank? Did you cut a hole into the tank? Click to expand  pretty nice work! what material is that? has the color of jb weld? looks very smooth. That is a nice job. Does the dagger board fit still? finding41 said: That is a nice job. Does the dagger board fit still? Click to expand "For those minor rain leaks." (HA!) It's a 26D. It leaks from all the deck hardware! Really! Mine does. Allot! I have been bedding all the hardware in butyl. You would be amazed ware water sneaks in. One way to find out is sit in the boat with a sprinkler turned on watering the boat. Or just in the rain. You know all those little round plugs in the ceiling... Take them out and watch the drops magically appear. The bolts for the ladder into the cabin too. ( I found that one by my arm getting dripped on at night.) see pictures. (Clean off the stuff that oozes out.) That butyl stuff fixes all that for good! Link, http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape 
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Living on a Trunk Cabin Trawler?
 Senior Member I live on a Present 38 foot with galley up. Have a 36" TV, no built in furniture but two stressless recliners. The galley is not an issue. Looking at it now, not offended. We entertain on the huge bridge. There are 2staterooms, rear queen and large v berth forward, 2 heads. no dining room but on the bridge...works great for us.  Galley location varies from boat to boat. Ours is down, with a dinette opposite, which I like. First Mate wishes it was up. Go figure. I took the helm seat out of the salon and put my small swivel rocker there. Also built a settee with storage space. It works for us. Attachments Master and Commander On a trunk cabin boat with no more than 3 steps to any level including the flying bridge to me was a good idea....you can set stuff down, go up the level and pick it up...no 8 foot ladder to negotioate...the Europe's with steps are better but still 8 feet of steps carrying stuff. Galley down for me as a liveaboard. Works well on the Albin 40...not necessarily on all vessels. I dissed a lot of better mare vessels because of the layout, living aboard is a whole different animal than visiting her. Like dating versus getting married. Yeah, climbing a ladder is bad enough while at dock; horrible to contemplate in rough waters. (A senior-citizen's opinion.)
Yes, one of the reasons I settled for an Albin. I always thought if I couldn't afford one of the bigger trawlers and went with a 36, I would rip out the galley up and convert the vee berth to a galley. Having a comfy pullout in the saloon for guest berthing. My flying bridge is just as nice for group gatherings as a Europa's....and it is a bit lower so handing stuff up from the main deck is easier...but the trunk cabin top is like a landing in a stairwell...it is less daunting for the older or less stable, a place at a conformable height to set things down. Some of the newer Europa's have steps versus ladders, a huge improvement in many people's minds. While covered side decks and cockpit are nice, I can live without the for the other trade offs. Would have loved a pilothouse style...but for a 40 footer (actually a small 39 is a better description for the Albin 40) worked out better for a variety of reasons. Any pictures of a v-berth galley conversion? If you're already losing the forward state room, I wonder how hard it would be to put a washer/dryer into the forward head? Trunk cabins are too narrow and cramped for me.  caltexflancbayview said: Trunk cabins are too narrow and cramped for me. Click to expand... When underway, it's more likely there is greater boat motion toward the bow compared to the boat's center.
 cool beans said: Yeah, I really like the idea of the Europa/sedan boats and that upper deck looks like a great place to have a cook out, but that ladder The only boat I'm considering with a ladder, and also the smallest so far, is a classic Mainship 34. At least it has a descent cockpit that is at salon level. Room for grilling and a couple partiers to let loose over the side Looks good in pictures, haven't seen one in person yet. Click to expand...
 "But, does it get old or bothersome to be basically living in your kitchen? Is there anything you've done to fix this?" Clean / clear the galley at the end of every meal. Its going to be done anyway , so why live with a mess?
 I had a 78 Mainship 1 for 14 years, and now a Albin 40 trunk cabin for 8 years. Our Albin has a completely open layout in the salon and galley down as described above. With a 13'8" beam it is plenty wide in the aft cabin. I think as a live aboard a sundeck model would be better. However we travel and use our boat a lot so we like the walk around side decks. We have done hundreds of locks and stop at lots of docks and canal walls when we travel and can do it all ourselves without help. I could see changing the Mainship ladder to a set of steps, but the ladder was not a problem even in rough seas as there is lots to hold on to in a model 1 (extended flybridge).  Veteran MemberSame experience. Had a MS34 MK II. Awesome day and weekender boat. Too cramped for me and the Commodore. Moved up to a MS 40 DC with twin Detroits. Loving every minute of it. We live on it.
Moderator Emerituspsneeld said: Based on the first words out of every transient marina dockmaster's mouth..."the best restaurants around here are....." or how often TFers grill at anchor...who the heck even needs a galley... Click to expand...
Have a Jefferson 45 motoryacth/trawler. Sun deck model with queen aft cabin,large salon,Gally down with house size refrg/icemaker.forward berth with two heads aft has full shower. Salon has two recliners 40 flat screen tv,.as well as foldout love seat,which is not used. Aft deck give plenty of entertainment area with fly bridge plenty of seating also.14 ft beam so plenty of space to get around when docking. Twin Perkins so 6-9 knots are the cruising speed. Plenty of tankage,and engine room is comfortable to work in. Its a 6-4-2 type of boat. 6 on a day cruise, 4 for dinner 2 for overnight. Similar threads
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If sailing, the safest path forward is along the windward side. Always use the handrails to keep your body closer to the boat. Sidedeck Your first obstacle when leaving the cockpit to go forward on the deck is the cockpit coaming, which extends aft of the trunk cabin, the area of the deck that's raised to provide headroom in the cabin below.
Cabin trunk. The center section of the deck is raised to form the cabin trunk, giving standing room in the cabin below. The deck in this area must be particularly strong and is reinforced to support the mast, standing rigging and sail handling equipment. The roof also has to be strong enough to withstand the pressure of large breaking waves.
Patterning the cabin trunk. Hi all, We will soon be building our deckhouse and we want to make it look as much as possible like it was part of the original boat. To that end we'd like to duplicate the shape of the cabin trunk, the same curve radius and side angles. We will be building with polyester on pvc honeycomb board, which we've found ...
12-15-2023, 02:10 AM. The most obvious advantage with raised deck, is your 'headroom' extends the full beam, rather than giving a crick in the neck from a side deck. Structurally, sounder and likely quicker to build. In a small boat, like the one I am working on, it has the cabin full beam, but, after some comments from a fellow builder in the ...
The cockpit is naturally sheltered by the protected position, partially inserted inside the hull. The awning, also known as the bimini, shelters the cockpit from the sun (and rain). The canopy, also known as the sprayhood, shelters it from wind and water splashes. There is a central area in the middle of the boat with two walkways at the sides ...
Coach Roof: Serves as the cover of the raised Cabin trunk; Hatches: Openings which allow light and ventilation in the Cabin; Cockpit: The primary working place of the boat; ... Cruising Sailboat - Cabin Parts. One interesting component of Cruising Sailboats is the Cabin. This is the area that is nestled down in the Sailboat's Hull.
Your boat's cabin trunk has a number of pressure zones, and these zones change depending on the wind direction. At anchor, the front of the cabin trunk is an area of high pressure, and this pressure reduces slightly as you move aft. The pressure differential between locations along the cabin top on depends many factors, including the shape of ...
Location: Minnesota, USA. Boat: Southwind 21 et al. Posts: 1,762. Re: Patterning the cabin trunk. Quote: Originally Posted by GILow. Just plonk a deckhouse on between the mast and the cockpit, approximately 700 mm high and a tad under 2 meters front to back, spanning the full width of the cabin trunk, and you've got the picture.
The traditional squared-off trunk cabin,so configured because of structural requirements inherent to building in wood, has all but disappeared from the modern fleet. Designers sought sleeker lines and less windage. enter the forward-tapering cabin and semi-flush deck. The resulting low cabin sides can no longer accommodate large opening ports ...
Boat Info. Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com. Classifieds. Sell Your Boat Used Gear for ... The trunk cabin to deck joint. Thread starter TomY; Start date Feb 10, 2012; Forums. Brand-Specific Forums. Alden Sailboats. Alden Questions, Answers and Advice TomY. Alden Forum Moderator. Jun 22, 2004 2,767 Alden ...
Hi, all, this spring I need to re-core a portion of the cabin trunk on my 1980 Oday 28. Can someone tell me what thickness of end-core balsa to use? ... What's new. New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media. Media. New media New comments. Boat Info. Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com. Classifieds. Sell Your Boat ...
Re: Patterning the cabin trunk. Quote: Originally Posted by GILow. Yes, "pulling a mold" off the existing trunk is what I'm trying to achieve. I'm looking for techniques for doing so. The simplest option is to use the trunk as the mould, but it would be very awkward. Ideally I could reproduce the curve some other way.
solid Iroko cabin trunk. Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by John Dickie, May 14, 2020. Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 Next > Joined: Apr 2019 Posts: 33 Likes: 4, Points: 8 Location: South Africa John Dickie Junior Member. I'm building a 35' steel hull,traditional wood deck and cabin ketch.Two questions-what is the usual way to ...
the bottom surface of the enclosed space under the deck of a boat. cabin trunk: a structure built up above the deck and providing headroom below. cap: a piece of trim, usually wood, used to cover and often decorate a portion of the boat, i.e., caprail. cardinal mark: a navigation aid-used in the Uniform State Waterway Marking System-that is ...
solid Iroko cabin trunk. Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by John Dickie, May 14, 2020. Page 2 of 3 < Prev 1 2 3 Next > Joined: Apr 2019 Posts: 33 ... The curve is 270mm,as I changed the trunk curvature to match the deck plank curvature. Wish me luck . John Dickie, May 20, 2020 #19. Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 1,866
Now to fix it: You will have to sand the area very well. (I would use a dowel with sandpaper wrapped on it.) Then clean it with assitone and patch with a piece of cloth about 2" bigger than the hole all around. You will have to use your stick to get the glass up there and smoothed over.
A trunk-cabin boat, that is, one with a walkaround deck, is essential to me. The advantage of built-in furniture rather than loose means it's secure in rough waters. I wanted a boat and not a floating house. Prefer the helm position separate from the hubbub of the galley and saloon. So, I've paid little attention to the type of boat you're ...
Art Deco Steamer Trunk or Cabin Wardrobe by Hartman Luggage Co. Early 20th Century Estate Wardrobe. Category Early 1900s Art Deco Antique Steamer Trunks. Materials. Steel. View Full Details. Art Deco Steamer Trunk or Cabin Wardrobe by Hartman Luggage Co. $5,846. H 41 in W 26 in D 22 in.
The new (grey) boat has a trunk cabin which leaks and has extensive rust bellow some bad paint work from a previous owner. It is a bit too low, and feels cramped inside. So i m planning in extending it, not round like with my previous boat, but like a rised deck. Like Badger and Wylo 2.
Art Deco Steamer Trunk or Cabin Wardrobe by Hartman Luggage Co. Early 20th Century Estate Wardrobe Trunk from Beckets Leather Goods Company Washington DC... Category Art Deco Antique Early 1900s Trunks and Luggage. Materials. Steel. View Full Details. Art Deco Steamer Trunk or Cabin Wardrobe by Hartman Luggage Co.
Tackling Moscow by Train and Boat Our first full day in Moscow started fairly late since we were still catching up on sleep. Around 1, we finally were able to get our act together and get out the door. We stopped by a cafe to get some breakfast and headed over to the Red Square. Since the festival is going on, we had to go through metal detectors.
Moscow River Boat Tours: Pleasant cruise - See 523 traveler reviews, 1,308 candid photos, and great deals for Moscow, Russia, at Tripadvisor.