c & c 33 sailboat review

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Mason 33 Used Boat Review

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Though expensive, the Mason 33 is of high quality; we can find little about her we don't like.

The Mason 33 was built in the mid- to late ’80s by the Ta Shing yard in Taiwan, and imported by Pacific Asian Enterprises in California. She is a moderate traditional design that harkens back to the CCA handicapping rule of the 1960s. It might best be described as a modern full-keel hull, with a cut away forefoot and sharply turned bilges to reduce wetted surface. Though narrow and short on the waterline compared to modern lightweight fin-keelers, she is beamier, with shorter overhangs, than you would find on a typical 1960s design. If the CCA racing rule had survived into the 1980s, we suspect the Mason 33 would be a typical, if conservative, specimen.

PAE’s requirements to the designer were for a seakindly hull with the capability for carrying ample stores and an ability to take a couple or small crew anywhere. The company makes no bones about their distaste for the standard issue contemporary finkeelers, which they dismiss as limited-purpose boats, suitable only for minimal coastal cruising, with too many berths and totally inadequate storage space. They believe the moderate traditional design of their 33 makes for not only comfortable coastal cruising and daysailing, but also blue-water passagemaking and as a living aboard. And it’s conceivable you could even race one in PHRF.

CONSTRUCTION

The hull is a standard solid fiberglass hand-laid laminate. It’s different from others in a couple of respects. The company specified a somewhat heavier than normal laminate, and the hull also has four full-length longitudinal stringers to give additional support to the bulkheads and floors.

Isophthalic resin is used in the laminate—the current theory is that iso resins are less water permeable and hence less likely to allow hull blistering to develop. PAE also recommended that buyers have an epoxy coating put on at the factory.

The ballast keel is iron, placed inside the hull molding in two pieces, taped into place, and sealed to minimize rust or leakage problems in case of a hard grounding. Americans are more accustomed to lead keels, which are unquestionably preferable for exterior ballast, but iron interior keels are fairly common in the Oriental boats, and we don’t hear of many problems. (The external iron keels common on European boats are more rust prone and a higher maintenance item.)

The deck molding is a standard glass layup with balsa core, with plywood in the cabin trunk and other spots to provide additional backing strength and attachment points for the interior joinerwork. The non-skid on deck is satisfactory, but the optional teak overlay is generally preferable. While it did cost $2,280, the price was reasonable (probably about a third of what it would cost in the US), especially considering the quality of it and the finished appearance it gives the boat.

Further, the hull has the displacement, ballast, and form stability so that the added weight of the teak deck won’t be the problem it could be on a lighter design.

The hull-to-deck joint is a standard inward turning hull flange, on top of which the deck rests. It’s somewhat unusual in that the teak toerail sits on top of (and hides) a stainless steel flat bar on top of the deck. Inside the hull there’s a matching stainless flat bar. The flat bars act as extended washers for the through bolts which fasten the joint together, with every other bolt going through the toerail as well as through the joint. About the only complaint we have heard about the older Masons was some leaking in the hull-to-deck joint, but it’s hard to see how the joint could leak on the 33.

The exterior finish of the hull and deck is generally good, with no evident hardspots to mar the fairness of the hull in any of the three boats we examined. The gelcoat work also appeared good. Although we went over the topsides and cabin house of one of the three boats carefully, we found no flaws—a rarity in fiberglass boatbuilding.

The boat has fairly extensive teak trim on the exterior, most notably the heavy-duty toerail, cockpit grates, and cabin trim. The standard hatches are teak, with lexan tops. If you’re not into the high maintenance of wood hatches, you could get optional Goiot or Taiwan brand (“Manship”) hatches. (The Taiwan hatches look like knock-offs, as well made but cheaper than the Goiot.) Having the exterior teak varnished was a $625 option. The result is the look of real quality, but requires the owner to get involved with the continuous maintenance required of varnished teak.

One of the things that marks the construction as good quality is the exterior detail. The custom made cleats and chocks, for example, are well done and well fitted to the teak trim, and the little stainless steel chafing strips to protect the teak around the stern chocks are just one of the many nice touches.

Although we might have preferred some things to be different (like using lead ballast rather than iron), it is clear that the developers and builder have given thought to all details of the boat’s construction. Overall, it is hard to find fault with any aspect of it.

HANDLING UNDER POWER

Early models of the boat came with a 21-hp. Westerbeke, normal for an offshore cruiser but probably near the minimum size for the American market. Later boats have a Yanmar three-cylinder diesel, at 27 hp adequate for the boat and more in line with what most Americans like in a coastal cruiser. The fuel tanks holds 35 gallons for a good powering range.

Standard is a three-blade propeller. A two-blade would be much preferable for performance under sail, since it could be positioned upright in the aperature between the aft end of the keel and the forward edge of the rudder. However, under power, the two-blade “hammers”—that is, it creates a sharp vibration because the two blades are alternately in the water flow but then hidden behind the keel and not pushing any water when vertical.

The hammering is a minor irritant, but we can imagine it becoming major during long motoring sessions. Unfortunately, it is inherent in the hull design.

The company recommended buying both a three-blade and a two-blade, using the three-blade most of the time but putting on the two-blade prior to long passages under sail. We would be inclined to go with a two-blade and put up with the vibration, but that’s a choice each person will have to make.

The boat we sailed had a two-blade prop and the Westerbeke diesel, and we found that the boat generally behaved well under power, being just a mite disinclined to back up in a straight line. Otherwise, she tracks and turns well, though long keel/attached rudder boats always have a longer turning radius than the fin keel/separate rudder models most people are accustomed to these days.

The engine installation is well done—there’s a good drip pan under the engine and everthing is neat and tidy. Full access to the engine, however, requires not only removing the companionway steps but also taking out a drawer assembly. It’s not a complicated job—you have only to remove two wing nuts, but it takes some time.

HANDLING UNDER SAIL

The Mason 33 is heavy by comparison to most boats its size, and it definitely has a different “feel” to it. We sailed it on a fairly calm day on the Pacific, but it was easy to sense that it would handle rough conditions in a more sedate fashion than typical modern lightweights.

Given that it is a long keeled boat with lots of wetted surface, it probably will not be a sprightly performer in light airs, but it has a powerful enough sail plan that the boat moved well in the 8-10 knots of air that we sailed in. Our sense was that the hull must be quite efficient for its type, since the boat sailed better than we expected in the conditions. Though we did not try it in heavy air, we suspect that the boat will be at its best sailing in a good blow.

The Mason 33 points well enough considering her outboard shrouds and her hull design, but windward work will not be her forte. She will do her best with the wind slightly ahead of the beam and next best from a beam reach to a broad reach. She rolls a lot dead downwind in heavy air.

Compared to modern racer/cruisers like the Pearson 33 or Beneteau 345, she will be quite slow for typical coastal cruising, especially in light air and to windward, but for sailing she was obviously designed for long distance passages, at which she should be respectable.

The boat comes with a mainsail and 100% working jib as standard equipment, so most people will want to add a genoa and spinnaker. The boat we sailed had a roller furling jib of about 130% which would be right for moderate- to heavier-air locales. For light-wind areas, a 140% would probably be better. The boat should handle a reefable 150% if you decided not to get furling gear.

The standard sails are made by Sobstad Watts. The main on the boat we sailed was good, the jib average. If we had a sailmaker whom we knew and trusted, our inclination would be to try to negotiate a purchase so we could have the sails made by our own sailmaker. However the standard sails are good enough that we wouldn’t feel “stuck” if we got them. That’s not common when stock sails come with a boat these days.

The teak decks, high toerail, and grabrails on the cabin top make movement around the deck easy. The walkways are plenty wide, and even the outboard shrouds require only a small duck and dodge when going forward.

We liked the deep cockpit of the boat, with its high coaming and comfortable seats, but it is somewhat smaller (more suited for seagoing) than is common nowadays. It’s definitely a cruising cockpit, and a racing crew of four or five would rapidly get in each other’s way, but it works well for a couple. Tiller steering is standard, but most everyone opts for the wheel which does provide more room. The cockpit lockers are enormous. They’re actually too big in the new boat configuration, and most owners will want to subdivide them with partitions, canvas, or netting so things don’t get jumbled.

The Lewmar #40 self-tailers are adequate, with easy access, but 43s are optional for weaker or harder-driving owners. A set of secondary winches is available; however, there’s scarcely enough room on the coaming top—we’d probably try to get by without them, even when flying a staysail or spinnaker.

The standard mainsheet winch is a Lewmar 16—we’d spring for the self-tailing Lewmar 30, since the traveler is ahead of the companionway and the sheet is not only loaded up but also prone to plenty of friction as it leads forward to the mast before turning down to the deck and back underneath the dodger coaming. Sail controls are minimal—you have to go to the mast to adjust the Cunningham, outhaul, or vang, so you won’t be doing much tweaking of sail trim.

The foredeck is small, adequate for sail handling and anchor work, but with not much room for sunbathing or lounging. The bow anchor roller is set up for a CQR. The forepeak is called a chainlocker. We would consider stowing nylon anchor rode there, but chain would put way too much weight forward. One problem to solve is where to put the anchors and rodes necessary for serious cruising. In this, the 33 is typical of most boats her size.

One shortcoming on deck—again inherent in the design of the boat—is that there is no good way to permanently install a swim ladder. The conventional transom mount does not work well because of the traditional slope of the transom, and a permanent mount has not been devised for the port or starboard side gates. The company sells a handsome teak ladder as an option, but it has to be removed and stowed when you’re underway.

The interior of the Mason 33 does not look spacious. That’s partly because it is quite teaky and fairly dark, but mostly because everything inside the boat is good sized, especially the storage spaces. In fact, there is considerably more storage on the Mason 33 than there is on many larger boats, like the O’Day 40. We particularly liked the roomy forepeak (which has all but disappeared on many current boats), the double hanging lockers, the small hanging locker next to the companionway for wet gear, and the adequate space for food stowage in the galley.

Layout below is fairly conventional, but the spacing and all the details have been attended to—we found few nits to pick and many details that were pleasantly surprising.

The galley has ample fiddled counters and good deep sinks and should work well under sail. At anchor, it’s awkward in that the floor rises to follow the hull contour. The icebox is big enough and apparently well insulated, hot and cold pressure water are standard, and there are two water tanks for a total of 65 gallons.

Opposite the galley is the navigation station, with an adequately sized chart table and a sort of “screen” bulkhead to protect charts and electronics from sea or rain water entering through the companionway. The electrical panel is beautiful.

Settees are port and starboard of a centerline table, and a pilot berth is available portside, though most owners will likely use the space for storage. The head has a shower which drains into the sump tank, good storage space, and a decent wash basin.

The berthing arrangement makes it clear that the boat is primarily designed for a couple, with perhaps at most one child or two young children and only occasional guests.

Notable below is the joinerwork which is uniformly of good quality. Teak is most everywhere—either veneered plywood or solid—with white formica as contrast. Hatches and portholes provide good light, augmented by deck prisms. Ventilation is adequate, with a big dorade and cowl forward, exhausting the forward cabin and head, and ten opening ports as standard equipment. For passage-making, a couple more deck vents would be desirable.

CONCLUSIONS

We hate to sound mush headed, but there is simply little to criticize in the Mason 33.

It is true that some people may not like the full keel design of the boat, preferring a lighter, high performance hull. But given the design, there is hardly anything wrong.

Her construction is solid, her deck is well laid out with good equipment, her spars and sail handling equipment are good quality, her interior is well laid out and well finished, the machinery and mechanical systems are made well and installed properly, and she’s a pretty good looking boat, though on the plain side.

We can’t even object to the price. She is expensive, but there are almost no boats of comparable quality in her size range, and the few you could buy are so much more expensive that they are not realistic alternatives.

For someone wanting a serious blue water cruiser or a livaboard boat in her size range, she is the logical choice. For others, wanting a coastal cruiser or a weekender/daysailer, she is probably less practical—more boat than would be needed. But of course many people buy not just a boat, but the dream of being able to take off at any moment and leave the boss and the rat race behind. The Mason is one of the few boats we’ve seen recently that is capable of actualizing the dream.

This article was first publlished on June 14, 2000 and has been updated.

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C&C 32 can anyone tell me about them?

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I have severe 2 foot itis right now. I've moved to a larger lake, and the option of a travel lift, and a crane as well as deep enough water to support larger sized sailboats has me looking towards something bigger. Unlike a lot of folks, I don't have any misconceptions that I'll instantly get a bunch more folks sailing with me, I just want something bigger with more "big boat" handling. I also hate to go slow, which is why all my boats have had a decent turn of speed (Capri 22, Capri 25, S2 7.9 and now my Wavelength 24). So I'd like something with style, and decent speed for its size (doesn't need to a J in speed, just not a slug). Our marina is also a broker, and they have several boats for sale I may be able to afford should the stars align (we sell our horse trailer, and I sell my boat - we've done both before and I don't anticipate a problem with either). Anyway, there is a nice 1983 C&C 32 in the marina, as well an older Catalina (1980) 30 tall rig. There are 2 other boats that I might consider as well, one is a 1989 Hunter 30 and an older 1984 Hunter 31. Of the boats I've nearly listed them in order of my preference, but the C&C to me seems the one that pushes my buttons the most. I've viewed the C&C on the outside so far, and noted these things... It has a recent roller furler (probably last 4 years), a nearly new horse blanket for the main, and the main itself looks newish (maybe it was refurbed, but it seems clean and crisp and might have come with the North Sails horse blanket - 2013 maybe?). Looks like the running rigging is newer, and the standing rigging looks clean. I could go on about the other boats for sale and their plusses and minuses but I want to see this boat below and hear the engine run. A couple club members mentioned they know the owner, and he's sailed the boat frequently. What I want to know is has anyone sailed this model C&C and what are its faults/strengths?  

Nothing first hand but... C&C 32 Considering an '81 C&C 32, looking for your thoughts. - Cruisers & Sailing Forums  

No direct experience either. Do like that the 32 has a solid glass hull, so no potential issues with a cored hull that some of the larger C&Cs of similar vintage could have. PHRF base rating in 171 which is not particularly fast for a 32 footer. For example, my 1985 Cal 33 has a base rating of 132.  

I've sailed on a friends 32 quite frequently. They are nimble and tight sailing. Not quite as stiff as the balsa cored boats but certainly very responsive. For your purposes they are a step up from the others on your list. The 32 won't be a Cal ( quick boats) but won't be a slug either. The added length and weigh will give you a different feel than what you currently sail. It's all about the condition it's in. For spec, pictures and issues check the C&C owners site C&C Yachts - C&C Photo Album & Resource Center  

chef, if money were no object I'd love a Cal 33. There was a super nice one for sale close by, but the hauling/shipping even the short 2-3 hour difference would have been over the top what I can spend. The C&C 32 seems more like a 31, whereas the Cal 33 is more of a 34 as I recall. with a speed similar to the Catalina 320 which as I understand it, is a pretty good handicap racer... I thought it wouldn't be to slow. Not sure where you saw that rating Jim, maybe PHRF NE is off? CATALINA 320 153 C+C 32 159  

SailingUphill said: with a speed similar to the Catalina 320 which as I understand it, is a pretty good handicap racer... I thought it wouldn't be to slow. Not sure where you saw that rating Jim, maybe PHRF NE is off? CATALINA 320 153 C+C 32 159 Click to expand...

I looked at a few of these boats before I ended up with my Mirage 33. I actually had offers in on 2 of them pending a clean inspection. On both those failed offers I found substantial structural damage to the floors underneath the cabin sole. They are solid good sailing boats from everything I know of, however they will show any major collision down below the sole. If you do consider one make sure to see if the owner will allow you to lift the sole boards on the stbd side and center line. That's where I found the majority of the damage. On one I visited the owner had a crazy story about being under sail at 6kts and slamming into a rock reef while reading a book. He swore it wasn't the 32 I was coming to see though....yet the floors were smashed when I looked at it which was either from sailing into a rock reef at 6kts or being dropped from a crane.  

Jim, I get you, looks like I am seeing "Cruising configuration" numbers. Cause my S2 7.9 rates PHRF 177 if you use those numbers, and that was no slow boat. Guy, thanks for the tip, I'll look. At the prices I am looking at, I'll probably be doing my own inspection.  

Doing your own inspection ? This may help Marine Survey 101, pre-survey inspection  

I think you may be disappointed in the 32 after owning a 7.9. While I do agree that it would be the best choice of the other boats mentioned I don't think the 32 was one of C&C's better designs. To be comparable to the 7.9 in a 32-35' boat you would need a phrf base below 150 at the very least and more like 140. You'll definitely want to sail one a couple of times before you make your decision. If performance is not that much of a concern (Liar Liar Pants on Fire Nose as long as a Telephone Wire) ( I say this because it's easy to say one doesn't care about performance until some whippersnapper starts to overtake you when you're out cruising ) God Forbid it should be a well sailed Catalina 30T. that would be just downright disgusting.  

Well today I pulled the trigger, and put a deposit down on a nicely maintained C&C 32.  

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Congrats and welcome to the C&C club. Enjoy your new boat Register when you get her C&C Yachts - C&C Photo Album & Resource Center  

Our Haleakula is registered under the 35MKIII k/c. I also have joined the e mail blog on the site. It has great tips for upgrades as well as repairs to existing features. Congrats again.  

Took the new ride out on Saturday. I moved the boat last weekend from Union Hall to Huddleston VA to get closer to my house. It is now 30 minutes drive (give or take) from my house instead of 1:10 minutes. Wife and I took the boat out at 11am, and didn't arrive back at dock until about 4:30pm. We worked to remove the canvas from the bimini and dodger When we started out winds were 6-8 knots, by the time we got back we were seeing whitecaps on the water, and getting a pretty good groove on. Its a lot more boat than I am used to sailing, but it has a lot of potential. Lots of sail controls to fix and some minor tweaks to performance. Its going to take me a while to get used to backing into my slip with this boat. It doesn't back well. I suspect it may have a folding prop which might be contributing to that. Oh and I removed the dodger (no eisenglass) and after this trip we removed all the canvas, and we winterized the whole boat (for sitting in the water). I plan on sailing the boat still, but will re-winterize the boat after each trip. Boat needs the backstay adjuster fixed. The vang upgraded to 8:1 and run back to the cabin (you can see the spare spinlock that was for it). The mini hatches need replaced (they leak). Overall I like how it sails and think its got a nice Yanmar diesel (2 cyl). Ran the diesel about 45 minutes when we started (and I left it on bat1). Sailed with only Knot/depth/VHF and fridge running for 5 hours. When I attempted to start the engine, it barely turned over, and did not start. I was a little put aback by this, until I recalled that I had switched to single battery. I switched to "ALL" and it fired right up, but it was a couple minutes of "oh crap now what." Was working up to the idea of sailing into my slip (which would be entertaining at the VERY least). Note to self the batteries are likely shot. Regardless it was a great sail. As you can see from Navionics, we covered some water.  

SailingUphill said: Took the new ride out on Saturday. I moved the boat last weekend from Union Hall to Huddleston VA to get closer to my house. It is now 30 minutes drive (give or take) from my house instead of 1:10 minutes. Wife and I took the boat out at 11am, and didn't arrive back at dock until about 4:30pm. We worked to remove the canvas from the bimini and dodger When we started out winds were 6-8 knots, by the time we got back we were seeing whitecaps on the water, and getting a pretty good groove on. Its a lot more boat than I am used to sailing, but it has a lot of potential. Lots of sail controls to fix and some minor tweaks to performance. Its going to take me a while to get used to backing into my slip with this boat. It doesn't back well. I suspect it may have a folding prop which might be contributing to that. Fall sailing 10/26/2019 - YouTube Oh and I removed the dodger (no eisenglass) and after this trip we removed all the canvas, and we winterized the whole boat (for sitting in the water). I plan on sailing the boat still, but will re-winterize the boat after each trip. Boat needs the backstay adjuster fixed. The vang upgraded to 8:1 and run back to the cabin (you can see the spare spinlock that was for it). The mini hatches need replaced (they leak). Overall I like how it sails and think its got a nice Yanmar diesel (2 cyl). Ran the diesel about 45 minutes when we started (and I left it on bat1). Sailed with only Knot/depth/VHF and fridge running for 5 hours. When I attempted to start the engine, it barely turned over, and did not start. I was a little put aback by this, until I recalled that I had switched to single battery. I switched to "ALL" and it fired right up, but it was a couple minutes of "oh crap now what." Was working up to the idea of sailing into my slip (which would be entertaining at the VERY least). Note to self the batteries are likely shot. Regardless it was a great sail. As you can see from Navionics, we covered some water. Click to expand...

Congrats on your new boat. She looks sweet and I liked the way the rig was set up. There was a 36 for sale at my home marina, the wife loved it, and I liked the quality of the build. I thought the salon and cockpit were more "party boat" than sailboat though. C&C 32 will be on my short-list when I'm looking for my next boat for sure.  

Couple quick questions I forgot to ask. What lake are you on? (couldn't quite make it out on the screenshot) And if you don't mind, what did the boat set you back? The C&C 36 I referenced went for 22K.  

I've seen dodger and spray hood used interchangeably. I zipped off the front panel (which is solid), and wraps around the "Front bimini." Panels zip off of the forward section and between the forward spray hood/bimini and aft bimini. Honestly think its overkill on our lake, although I can see the want for it in the hottest days of summer, otherwise its overkill for the lake. Yes I can see that is overpowers quickly. 18 knots true is a significant amount of wind for a 150 and full main so that makes sense.  

Ok so I've stripped the boat of all bimini's (for winter). We went for a nice long motor today, because there was less than 5 knots of wind. New marina has powered slips but 1 dock. I plan on running power down the dock (he allows that) to just charge the batteries, but haven't gotten to it yet. So for now my plan is to come to the boat weekly and fire up the motor, run it for at least 30 minutes, today it was more like 3 hours at 2000+ rpm most the way. Anyway, while motoring all over it gives me way to much time to look at rigging. Noticed someone moved the boom up (like a foot), which of course means someone likely trimmed the mainsail down. I have another mainsail which is in great shape but now I am worried it too might be trimmed down to fit the new boom position. I want to be getting the boat back into its original configuration, so that I can improve sailing characteristics. I'll likely be removing the forward bimini, but I must admit I like the one over the skipper station. Lots to do, ordered a boomkicker, which I can almost guarantee won't reach the new boom height, might be able to fudge it, I'll have to see. I also want to rig up something so I can control the traveler from the aft position. I know I won't be able to do anything about the mainsheet, but if I can route the traveler controls aft, then I'll be well on my way towards rigging for better single handing. I ordered a new lewmar ocean 20 hatch for the one over the salon that is leaking. Right now its tarp city (and the tarp is dying). If the hatch works and fits well, I'll replace the other on the boat. Motored all over the lake today, no real wind, but it was great exercise for the Yammie.  

SailingUphill said: Ok so I've stripped the boat of all bimini's (for winter). We went for a nice long motor today, because there was less than 5 knots of wind. New marina has powered slips but 1 dock. I plan on running power down the dock (he allows that) to just charge the batteries, but haven't gotten to it yet. So for now my plan is to come to the boat weekly and fire up the motor, run it for at least 30 minutes, today it was more like 3 hours at 2000+ rpm most the way. Anyway, while motoring all over it gives me way to much time to look at rigging. Noticed someone moved the boom up (like a foot), which of course means someone likely trimmed the mainsail down. I have another mainsail which is in great shape but now I am worried it too might be trimmed down to fit the new boom position. I want to be getting the boat back into its original configuration, so that I can improve sailing characteristics. I'll likely be removing the forward bimini, but I must admit I like the one over the skipper station. Lots to do, ordered a boomkicker, which I can almost guarantee won't reach the new boom height, might be able to fudge it, I'll have to see. I also want to rig up something so I can control the traveler from the aft position. I know I won't be able to do anything about the mainsheet, but if I can route the traveler controls aft, then I'll be well on my way towards rigging for better single handing. I ordered a new lewmar ocean 20 hatch for the one over the salon that is leaking. Right now its tarp city (and the tarp is dying). If the hatch works and fits well, I'll replace the other on the boat. Motored all over the lake today, no real wind, but it was great exercise for the Yammie. Click to expand...

chef, the alternator has been changed out at some point, I'll have to look to see what it is. I'm figuring the 4 hours running at various speeds between 1800 and 2700rpm today will have helped. There also was a higher quality charger and inverter put aboard but I have not dug into the electronics to figure out what was done. Someone spent a decent amount of coin on this boat across the course of its existence. The neglected things are the sailing characteristics, running rigging. Sails were even cared for, but only for the tune of making it more comfortable to sail. Nothing wrong with that, just I want a balance of comfort and performance. Prior owner had the boat for 4 years, and hadn't ever replaced the batteries. I need to look more closely but I think they are standard deep cycle lead acid interstate group 27s.  

Based on their age and the issue you had with starting after your first sail, your batteries need replacement. You might consider going to a house bank of a pair of golf cart batteries with the second battery a reserve or start battery. What you currently have is insufficient for refrigeration.  

Jim agreed. We have golf cart batts in our RV and they are bulletproof. I'd love to do the same on the boat. I'm thinking this was a dock queen, so nobody cared about properly sized batteries.  

First upgrade, leaky ventilation hatch. These tiny hatches are like 9x14. Owner had nice velcro screens made for them. So the original hatch was held in just with silicone. It was tap in a flathead screwdriver, and twist, and pop, it was out. New Lewmar Ocean 20, and it was nearly the same size. The exposed edge on the fiberglass still looks ugly, but hopefully my leaking hatch problems are gone. The other 2 things I did was put on the prior owners "Special order" Sailcare sail, and added new battens it. Its a nice sail, but it doesn't fit right. I think the prior owner was to focused on making it higher than the bimini. However, the boomkicker fit nicely. I'm honestly not happy how the boom was raised either. My estimation is they moved the boom up 12 inches. Baby steps. I got power connected up to the boat, tuned the rig more, fixed the backstay adjuster (a bit) and ran the vang back to the cockpit (a requirement with the kicker), my topping lift has now been tied off and removed from use (recall I move my halyard to the aft end of my boom to secure it after sail). I will slowly get this boat up to speed.  

Spent some time sailing yesterday, winds were all over the place, but generally up, which was nice. I have a pretty good handle on the sailing characteristics now. Boat will allow you to hold it down when you heel past 15 degrees, but it eventually comes to a stall, and you are hard over. What shocks me, is the boat is very quick to surf off wind, can quickly pop up on its own wake and pull up over hull speed. I really had a great time sailing her the other day. Just a little share:  

I replaced both batteries with just standard deep cycles... yep I took the lazy approach. Converter/Charger is still a questionmark. I don't think its really up to the task... its maintaining the batteries, but I doubt it has enough umph to charge AND provide DC power for like running the DC fridge. I will likely want to replace it soon. Several things bug me about the boat. I solo sail a lot and all the mainsail controls are on the coach roof. I've debated both running the lines back to the skippers station, and moving the traveler to the bridge deck. It takes a winch to sheet under load (understandable). I wonder if I bring the sheet/traveler back, I can go to say 6:1 or coarse/fine 4:1 and 8:1 I could get away with no winch. I wouldn't be end boom sheeting, but it should have more leverage it may work. Meanwhile the knotmeter is frustrating me. Its a tri-data Raymarine ST60+. I've pulled the transducer (triducer), and the paddle looks clean.. but speed readings are terribly off, and no factor correction gets it even close. I am comparing speed to SOG from my VHF and my phone (Navionics), and its always as much as 2 knots off. I played with the factor correction, and its pretty accurate right at about 3 knots, then not so much above/below. I'm trying to figure out if there is just that much fouling around the wheel or if the triducer is garbage. Depth and temp read great. She does OK in light air... Some other notes... I think I have 3/8" sheets. Lines are decent, but I have Barlow 28 self tailor winches and well, they won't self-tail (they keep slipping). I suspect 3/8 is the minimum line size. I hate to consider it but I am thinking 7/16" maybe will make them work. Seems like overkill on a 32 foot boat, but maybe not. I think the winches are a bit oversized for the boat anyway, but they are sure are striking.  

Definitely move to a bridgedeck traveler. Your main is not that big. My boat has a P of 38.5 and E of 14'. 4:1,8:1 mainsheet and 4:1 traveler controls , no problem. Nifty bridgedeck setup.  

Best sheet line I have used. Sensible Yacht Cordage's Lanex Meltemi Fix. 12mm @$.89/foot. Low stretch, exceptional hand and most importantly it doesn't hockle or kink. I have used it on 2 boats and it worked great with the barlow 21 self tailers on my last C&C  

Sounds like your starting to understand how the boat performs. It’s important the you have good hand feel with your jib sheets as lots of adjustments there. Yours seem a tad small. I prefer NE Ropes Sta Set as a good middle of the road for my main and jib sheets. What are the size of your batteries. If you intend on overnighting and have refrigeration I would suggest you have at least 400 ah ( 200 usable) . Easily accomplished with 4-6 volt which are a small footprint. Since you boat is in a marina get a good three stage charger. Electricity/ batteries often are mismatched and can be expensive if you don’t set up correctly. Feel free to IM me at anytime. Glad to see you like the boat. They are high performers and the steering is quick and nimble. After you get the sails/ lines dialed in, its time to practice and set up reefing.....you’ll need it as our boats can be tender ( I don’t think you have a center board right?)  

The accurate SOG of you phone is correct. Not sure they aren’t lining up with the Ray60 as you have no current there correct? I use my km when I want a comparison of sailing speeds in adjusting trim, which you can still get. But it would be nice if they matched up.😄  

No current (or at least negligible current). Batteries are 2 group 27 deep cycles. My personal preference would be for moving the mainsheet to the bridge deck. Wife tells me it'd be a PITA to have it there. She's of course right, but I'm going through mainsheet withdraw, I'm likely to put it on the bridgedeck anyway. As far as performance, compared to my last 4 boats, its um, a cruiser (no worries I knew what I was buying). To put things in perspective, my C&C rates the same as my S2 7.9. Reefing? I can't even imagine. Masthead rig is all headsail driven, I was out in 25 knot winds already, full mainsail, partially furled headsail and it was fine. I mean I may see 30+ on the lake, but not sure how likely it'll be I'll torture myself with that. I raced this past weekend. 3 races (under an hour a piece)... 3 of 5, 4 of 5, and 5 of 5... bottom is a shag carpet so there are lots of things to resolve here.... Including the skipper has to not have a sprained wrist (was putting in fence posts on Sat). I'm not making excuses I gotta lot to learn. I still love the boat though.  

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